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YOUR RESEARCHWeird Problem
Reported repair
Repair some vacuum routing
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So when I went to start it, it actually ran...horribly for a few seconds as it probably used the fuel still in the lines then died.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The fact that it ran once points toward a bad connection .
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Wish you'd tested each time so we knew which one but glad your are up and going again regardless.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So when I went to start it, it actually ran...horribly for a few seconds as it probably used the fuel still in the lines then died.
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So I had my engine/tiptronic out of the car for work. I re-assembled everything and it is back in the car. Because of work/travel I have had to work on it, then leave it for a while, the back on it, etc. I'm trying to justify to idiot move I made. I forgot to connect the fuel lines.
So when I went to start it, it actually ran...horribly for a few seconds as it probably used the fuel still in the lines then died. I saw the gas all over the floor and realized what happened. So I got everything all connected up and have tried several times to start and it won't fire, it just turns over. I pressed the fuel pressure nipple and fuel came out so I know there is fuel in the lines. I took a spark plug out and it appears to have no spark so I am thinking that it is now become an electrical problem, which makes no sense unless there is some kind of "trip" that occurs if a break in the fuel line is detected (
so that is question #1
).
I am also thinking that maybe my testing of the plug was a "test failure". The boot is extensive and tight for the plug, but it doesn't feel like the contact in the boot is all that tight. I'm wondering if the screws that hold it in place actually also force the contact and having it out of the block makes contact sketchy (
that is question #2
).
Question #3
: If it is electrical, what's the best place to start troubleshooting.
Question #4
: If it is fuel, then I am assuming that I start with fuel pressure...what else are good things to check.
So, I actually took the boot off of the spark plug connector so that I could make sure the plug was making good contact. I could not see a spark when the car was cranked.
I am also getting a high pitch whine that is coming from the carburetor area. It kind of sounds like the high pitch noise you get during a hearing test. This occurs when the key is turned on but the car is not started and does not go away.
I'm feeling like this high pitch whine is related like something's not right so the electrical is not enabled. Anyone?
Whoops, I guess that would help...lol It's a 2001 911 996 Carrera Tiptronic.
Here's the video with the whine.
Edit: I'm not able to embed the video, but here is the link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kO4G...ature=youtu.be
The throttle body whine is normal. Do an e-gas recalibration first. Key ON engine OFF for 1 mn with your foot off the gas pedal. Then turn key to OFF and wait 10s then remove key and you're done.
A1: no, nothng will trip based on fuel pressure
A2: I'm not sure but you should provide groung to the bolt holes of the removed coil. They may be ground points needed for the coil.
A3: Check if the tach needle bounces for 1/4" when you crank.
A4: Use a stethoscope to check if injector #1 clcks when you (someone else) crank the engine. But spark should give same results.
Fuses are all good. Those connectors have been bugging me. I think I have them connected right. Can they be incorrectly hooked up, or is there a sure fire way to make sure they are in the right position? I did notice some small shape changes around the fitting, but I'm not sure if they make any difference when you make the connection.
Rebuilt Tiptronic (someone else did this)
IMS Bearing + modified oil feed.
RMS
AOS
Fixed some vacuum routing
Cooling system routing corrections
New Spark Plugs
It doesn't have to be the connector, though Ahsai's advice to check the conncector is very good advice.
The crankshaft position may be bad or improperly installed. If it is not installed correctly the Hall effect may not be sufficient enough to generate a strong enough signal and the result is the DME won't know the position of the crank and thus the pistons. It won't know when to trigger the fuel injectors or the spark plugs.
The engine will crank just fine but not fire.
That the engine ran a short while suggests either the crankshaft sensor died or was loose and moved out of position.
Please don't be offended by this question but-did you verify the cam timing after the new IMS bearing install ?
When you turn the key to on does the fuel pump run for approximately 3 seconds ?
It is not to hard to pinch a wire -wouldn't hurt to verify that didn't happen especially the crankshaft position sensor .Also that all wiring harness grounds are good connections .
The fact that it ran once points toward a bad connection .
Didn't answer your question on the connectors -the foolproof way is to trace a wire they are the same color code both sides of the connector .One great thing about Porsche wiring is that each circuit has it's own unique color code wire .
I unfortunately did not think to replace this along with the other things. There is just one and it is on the driver-side of the flywheel housing...is that right? If so, other than being covered in oil it looks fine. Maybe replace it and see if that does it. Do you or Ahsai know if it has to be "reprogrammed"?
Not offended at all. I'm mechanically inclined enough to be dangerous so I will take all the advice I can get. I will do the wire-color thing.
And in answer to your other question, I did not do anything with timing. But the fuel pump does do the run thing...although if I turn the key and then don't start and then turn the key again, it doesn't pump. I noticed this because I was trying to prime the fuel lines.
If the car ran before taking apart and you reinstalled the same flywheel and didn't remove the Crankshaft position sensor odds are pretty good it's still good .Putting a new one in has been known to induce adjustment requirements .
This is free advice and probably worth what you paid for it but I would check the cam timing just as an insurance policy .It may have nothing to do with the no start and be fine but if it isn't ........
Thanks to everyone for their help. I did three things and I'm not sure what made the difference but it started. Now I can proceed with getting the Tiptronic oil topped off.
#1 Did the color match on the X59 connectors. Found like colored wires on each side of the connection to verify each connection was rotated to the correct position.
#2 Went back and re-did the e-gas calibration procedure identified by Ahsai. The first time I did it, I had actually removed and inserted the key before doing the second part of that step where you turn on the key for 10 seconds. This time around, I left the key in the ignition and then did the 10 seconds. I figured the 10 second period was kind of like hitting save on your computer and I may "lost my work" the first time I did it.
#3 Reseated the wiring connection to the throttle housing
Me too...that was a "engineering troubleshoot fail" on my part. I usually only do one thing at a time but was actually not real confident that any of those changes would make a different.
I figured the X59 connectors must have something in the configuration to allow them to only fit together correctly since this is the standard MO throughout the rest of the electrical on the car, and I had reseated the throttle body wire about 3-4 times already. If I had thought anything would make a difference it was the e-gas recalibration since my procedure may have been wrong the first time.
Would you happen to know approximately how much tiptronic fluid I would need to put in for a completely drained transmission? It was a rebuild so it was completely empty to start out. I've put in two gallons (7.56 liters) so far. I just kind of want to make sure I am in the ballpark for capacity before I go buy more fluid.
