Post-Purchase Enclosed Transport/Baseline Questions

Hey everyone � quick update and a big thank you to this community. I posted on WTB and received a great referral. I found a very strong 996.2 C4S 6MT candidate and we�re moving toward closing in mid-March. I�m intentionally keeping specifics general until the car is officially home, but I wanted to: close the loop for anyone who DM�d leads/advice, and tap the Rennlist brain trust for two logistics decisions I�m working through right now. Due diligence update (high level): PPI/PIWIS: no active codes; some history likely related to a battery disconnect. Borescope: generally clean; shop noted minor/normal �witness lines� in two cylinders (nothing that changed my go/no-go). Options: car has factory sport exhaust and the switch/valves are working properly (rowdy when �on,� politely quiet when �off�). Love that. Near-term plan: Fly in, close the deal at a bank, enjoy the car briefly in-state, then ship it home. Once home: baseline with a trusted Porsche indie (inspection/fluids), and likely combine clutch/mounts + AOS if it makes sense. Questions for the group: Enclosed transport: I got an instant Intercity quote around $2,800-3,300 (yikes). For a Southwest → Upper Midwest move (1800-1900 miles), who have you used that�s professional but not �concours transport for a GT2 RS� priced? Any recommendations (or warnings) appreciated. AOS + leakdown timing: My shop noted early AOS seepage (common 996/997), and suggested it�s smart to handle AOS when the clutch is done. Would you: replace AOS proactively with clutch/mounts and do leakdown after that, or do leakdown now as a baseline even if AOS is starting to go? First-week home baseline: If you had a clean-ish 996.2 C4S coming in, what are your �do it immediately� items vs �monitor�? Appreciate you all. Once it�s safely in the garage and I�m in the clear, I�ll share more details and lessons learned for the next buyer. 🙏 Early lessons learned (so far): A real PPI + DME/PIWIS + borescope is worth the money for clarity and peace of mind. Transport pricing is all over the place � I�m seeing huge variance for what sounds like similar service. The seller + shop combo matters almost as much as the car (clear communication, good photos/notes, no drama). WI / Upper Midwest connections: If you�re in PCA Wisconsin / Upper Midwest and have a great Porsche indie recommendation for baseline work (and future stewardship), feel free to DM me � I�d love to build the right long-term relationship locally.

I�m no expert, but� Replace AOS with UAOS (from member @Porschetech3 or LN Engineering) Pull an oil sample and send it to Blackstone to establish a baseline and determine no �hidden� wear issues Congratulations and good luck!!!

Hello fellow Wisconsinite! I�m just ahead of you in the journey (purchased 2 weeks ago, in shop now) From my research the best shops are CS Motorsport (can do IMS, certified). If you are in Milwaukee Joe�s Garage is great, they basically only work on Porsche�s and are fair priced and experienced. In Illinois Fischer Motors is also great.

I have shipped a couple cars with Reliable and thought the pricing was fair. They offer a 10% discount to Hagerty members. Why don't you drive it home? I have done that with every car I bought except during covid. I'm in Massachusetts and drove my 911 from Chicago, my 280Z from Scottsdale AZ, and various Corrados from Tampa, Baltimore, Rochester NY, and Ashville SC.

I�m not an expert but worth posting what I needed to get done: AOS leak Vacuum system (can do with AOS, often old and brittle hoses) Water pump replacement if not recent, I think 40-50k is guidance Coolant tank, similar age Low temp thermostat Suspension, have them take a look Brake fluid IMS/RMS if not done Interior HVAC foam is annoying

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I only use Reliable and Intercity. Whatever you decide, go with a company that actually owns the trucks rather than a broker.

Definitely add IMS to the list if you don't have it mentioned in the car's history. I drove my car home from the seller's location (7 hour drive).

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​​​​​​NOTA968 � thank you! Super helpful. I�m really liking the UAOS idea (especially if the real premium is the serviceable regulator + accumulator/warning layer vs just swapping another OEM AOS). If you�ve seen them firsthand: do most go auto-drain or manual , and any real-world downsides you�ve noticed? On Blackstone: I love that baseline idea. The indie actually cut open the oil filter and checked for metal � which felt like the �Blackstone-superlight� version of a health check. I�m thinking I�ll make this part of my provenance binder: Blackstone at every oil change + video/photos of the cut-open filter pleats each time. I only expect about 2,500 miles/year , so it�ll be a clean annual trend line. If you�re doing Blackstone regularly on a lower-mile car, do you still sample every oil change (annual), or do you space it out every other change once the trend is established?

Love it, fellow Wisconsinite! Congrats on the purchase two weeks ago� welcome to the �it�s in the shop but I�m still smiling� phase 😄 This is exactly what I needed � thank you. I�ve heard CS Motorsport come up a few times, and I really appreciate the adds on Joe�s Garage (MKE) and Fischer Motors (IL). Quick follow-ups: Which shop did you pick for your first round of work, and how�s communication/turnaround been? Any favorites in NE WI (or nearby)? Happy to take that via DM if you prefer. Anything you're done right away �while it�s in there� with the new-to-you car for a baseline? Appreciate you chiming in.

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​​​​​​Seriously, thank you. The shop recs + your �what I actually had to do� list is exactly the kind of guidance I�m collecting. Congratulations on the purchase! I responded to your first post before I saw this. In my case, IMS/RMS have been done (so thankfully I�m not opening that can right away). My near-term focus is more the �classic 996 stewardship� stuff: AOS + CV Boot + Clutch/Mounts (less than 1 year). Quick follow-ups: Which shop did you end up using and how�s communication/turnaround been? And do you have any other recommendations in NE WI? (fine if you want to DM me) And on the HVAC foam � did you fix it, or just learn to live with it? Really appreciate you chiming in (and congrats again on your recent purchase).

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​​​​​​Thank you. I�ve heard Reliable come up a lot, and the Hagerty discount tip is gold. I did check them out: their �economy� option was ~4 weeks with a terminal drop and multiple stops, and the 7-day door-to-door quote was basically double. Upper Midwest weather puts a lot of salt on the roads until mid-April, so the timing worked for me. On driving it home � I love the idea (your pickup road trips are legendary). Mild concern about upper Midwest weather (salt/ice), but honestly it�s mostly that I don�t want to put ~1,900 miles on it before I�ve done a baseline inspection/fluids at home. Have you ever gotten caught in nasty weather on one of those drives?

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​​​​​​Good to hear you�ve consistently had good experiences with Reliable and Intercity. And agreed on the broker point � I�m trying hard to avoid problems. Quick question: when you�ve used Reliable/Intercity, have you done terminal drop vs door-to-door, and did you notice any difference in handling/care? Also, what�s your rule of thumb for when Intercity is �worth it� vs Reliable (price about 2/3, handling)? Thanks again � exactly the kind of perspective I was hoping for.

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​​​​​​Totally agree on IMS being a must-check. In my case, the records show the IMS has already been done, so thankfully that�s one big box checked. On your 7-hour drive home � did you do anything specific before heading out beyond a quick pulse on fluids/tires? Any lessons from that trip?

Also a fellow Wisconsinite with a recent purchase of my first Pcar. I can say that both Joe’s garage and Chris from CS motorsports were both great in helping me leading up to my purchase. CS is actually building my car right now! Couple of my friends are Joes garage customers and have nothing but great reviews and CS Motorsports is an authorized FSI/LN engineering installer/builder so that is a strong endorsement in my book. Congratulations on the purchase, now we wait for nice weather.

In my opinion the UAOS with track drain is the way to go . I have it on my 996 C4 and just don't have to worry about it . Money well spent. FYI Skip the inventor of the UAOS is currently in the hospital. I mention that only to say you " might " have better luck purchasing from LN Engineering vs directly from Skip . We are all pulling for him to get better but sales are not a high priority at the moment ( a guess on my part ) .

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Prior to the drive home, during my personal inspection of the car, I checked fluids, battery, and tire pressure. Also, on the test drive, checked for engine temperature, oil pressure, brought my OBD2 reader to check for codes. All checked out ok which confirmed the PPI. No lessons from the trip other than I thought I was only going to drive it halfway, rest, then finish the drive the next day. But it was so much fun to drive, I decided to drive straight on home without stopping (apart from gas and food stops). Here is a pic from the drive home.

I'd cowboy up ....drive it till you got to the death zone, slap some chains on those tires and crack on.

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Not in anything more than some rain. I had a few adventures; one of the Corrados I bought had a blown head gasket that I did not discover until I was 300 miles into the trip so I ran it without the radiator cap and kept adding water the rest of the way. And a Mk2 Jetta I drove back from San Diego way back in the late 90's I hit a deer in middle of nowhere, Kansas which disabled the car; that lead to some interesting travel by state police car, tow truck, bus, airlines. I had interesting baggage on the return flight to pick up the car including a radiator and headlights!

My car had Michelin PS Cup 2 up front and PS4S in the back. All were not old but is nearing replacement time. On my drive home from Florida, there were good Florida rains but if you know the capabilities of your car, you can adjust your driving speed based on road conditions (alternatively, you can always just stop somewhere until the rain passes if you don't have a tight timeline). Maybe ask for a tread measurement from the seller along with the tire's age (should be right on the sidewall) so you can judge how safe it will be if you encounter weather. I would not have driven the car home if it was 5 or 6 years + old.

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​​​​​​Great to see another Wisconsinite (and congrats on your first P-car!). And thank you � this confirms what I've been hearing. You�re actually the second WI member to confirm Joe�s Garage and CS Motorsports as top-tier options (armengar mentioned the same), so that�s quickly moving them to the top of my shortlist. Really cool that CS is building your car right now � that�s about as strong an endorsement as it gets. If you don�t mind sharing: what kind of build are they doing (refresh, suspension, engine work, etc.), and how has the communication/turnaround been? Also, any recommendations closer to NE WI / Fox Valley for routine baseline work, or are you mainly running to MKE / IL? Appreciate it � and yes� now we wait for Wisconsin to remember what �spring� means! 😄

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​​​​​​Really appreciate this. Helpful to hear the UAOS with track drain has been truly �set it and forget it� on your C4 � that�s exactly the kind of practical feedback I�m looking for. Quick follow-up: any install quirks or downsides you�ve noticed with the track drain setup (routing, maintenance, nuisance warnings), or has it been completely hands-off? Also, not a concern where I�m registering (in NE WI), but thinking ahead for resale to a stricter emissions/visual-inspection state � is UAOS basically a non-issue, or something you�d want to keep easily reversible? And thanks for the heads-up on Skip � wishing him a smooth recovery. If LN Engineering is the better route right now to keep things simple, that makes total sense.

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This is such important advice. There are a billion broker services out there and they don't do a good job of vetting drivers. Because they will likely source the cheapest bidder, it will be highly likely you get a driver who is new to the US and doesn't speak English well. NOTHING against hard working people trying to work their way up BUT the reality is that they often treat cars like they used to roughly treat cars in their former country, and then when there is a problem and you are trying to figure out what happened the language barrier becomes a real issue.

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The UAOS is so buried in the engine bay I would be shocked if any inspector even noticed it. doubt most of them see that many 996 cars.. Only part you can really see is the diaphram and it looks so normal amongst all the other piping.. My state (Oregon) doesn't even open the engine cover anymore they just plug in the OBD and make sure its all good with no codes.

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Kind of a long story, but the shortish version is I contacted Chris about a second opinion on an out of state PPI that I felt was suspect. He confirmed my suspicions that the borescope photos were worse than I was being told. Got to talking with him and he happened to have a car that he bought from a customer after a catastrophic engine failure that was more or less exactly what I was looking for. We hammered out an agreement to purchase with a complete turn key refresh. I�m paying at the top end or a tad higher than what I feel it�s worth, but I 100% know what I�m getting which is worth it to me. I learned very early in my search that I was not someone who could buy off of BAT or Cars and Bids. To many unknowns for my liking.

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​​​​​​ 😄 That pre-drive checklist is the perfect mix of �responsible adult� and �let�s go have fun.� Quick question on the OBD2 scan: were you mainly checking for stored/pending codes, or did you also peek at whether the readiness monitors were set (just to confirm nothing had been recently cleared/reset)? And that drive-home story is peak Porsche � I�ll stop halfway turning into nah� Great pic!

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​​​​​​Haha � noted. �Cowboy up� is definitely one strategy. 😄 Truth is I�m less worried about me and more worried about putting ~1,900 miles on it before I do a baseline once it�s home. But you�ve got me curious � if you were doing a March run, what�s your minimum checklist (tires age, coolant tank, belts, brake thickness, etc.) before you point it north - Upper Midwest? BTW - Tonight - next 24 hours, -30 to -40 windchill!

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​​​​​​OK, that�s officially next-level road-trip lore 😂 Running a Corrado 300 miles cap-off with a blown head gasket (pure grit) and then the deer-in-nowhere Kansas story� getting chauffeured by state police and flying with used parts is elite. Also � your Hagerty Drivers Club tip was spot on. I joined and it did apply: 10% off my enclosed Reliable shipment. That alone basically paid for a few years of membership. Quick follow-up since you�ve earned the road-trip badge: if you were doing a 1,900-mile drive in a newly purchased 996, what are your Top 3 �must verify before you leave� checks, and what are the tools you would travel with?

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​​​​​​When I was just out of high school I worked at a tire store, so I got picky. In my case, the seller actually replaced the tires recently because the previous set was starting to crack, so that takes a lot of the tire risk off the table. Also good note on your setup � Cup 2s are serious rubber, but definitely not what I�d choose if I expected heavy rain (vs a PS4S-type street tire). Genuinely curious: what made you run Cup 2 up front and PS4S in the rear � availability or a deliberate feel/traction balance? And would you do that combo again?

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​​​​​​Appreciate the reinforcement on avoiding brokers point. I�m with you on wanting transparency as I didn't get the same confidence with other companies: carrier-owned trucks, clear insurance, direct dispatch/driver contact, and no surprise handoffs/transloads. I actually ended up going that route � Reliable owns their trucks, and I was fortunate to snag the Hagerty Drivers Club (HDC) 10% discount, which helped. I�m doing a facility drop-off and it�s the space-available / up to ~4 weeks window, so I�m trying to understand the risk so many have recommended Reliable, I trust they do this a lot with rare issues. Quick question: what are the must-ask questions you use up front to keep it boring and controlled � specifically around whether it stays on one truck, any transload/transfer, number of stops, and what photo documentation you ask for at pickup/drop?

I went this route when I acquired my 996. I did not do covered transportation mainly because it's wrapped in PPF. I was extremely happy with their service - the guy I bought it from has dementia and a group of buddies that look after him, but not all the time. He disappeared for 5 days and so he missed the pickup time. J&S Transportation in Billings were very understanding and worked with me on a second pickup. I am extremely glad I didn't drive it home - the Michelins had plenty of tread but they had some decent cracking at the seam between the sidewall and tread. I drove it straight from the truck to my Indy and was still slightly scared about the tires making it. The funniest thing about that first drive was it cool enough that I needed to turn on the defroster. I was showered in sheets, shards, and bits of black foam when the fan kicked on. What the???? I have always been a big advocate of used oil analysis, and especially now. It's common to hear that UOA is good for trending, but that just isn't the complete story. You can detect bore scoring, bearing and a host of other factoids with UOA. I've used Blackstone for eons, but Lake Speed Jr is another option. He's a bit more expensive but is super quick in turnaround compared Blackstone. Hopefully Skip will work out a builder for his UAOS kit. I wish him the best for a full recovery.

I personally would not drive it home unless you have lots of time and money available for unplanned incidents. A lot can go wrong when driving an unfamiliar car on unfamiliar roads. For example, if the car consumes a quart of oil every 1000 miles, then it�ll have consumed nearly two quarts over your 1900 mile trip. Or, you wouldn�t know if the engine was filled with subpar oil that has sheared down a grade. I think it�s best to transport the car home where you can safely learn about its quirks.

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I'd check tires, look for obvious alignment issues, and see if the gas gauge worked. With any car I'd do this. I'd recheck tires at the first gas stop. For tools these days all I'd take is my credit card and phone. There's a harbor freight or tractor supply most everywhere. If it breaks down I'd be prepared to get it towed somewhere safe and get home a different way to get whatever I need. I would not bother asking if the car's staying on one truck, they always say yes. You should take a picture of the odometer as it's handed over for transport *and* make it obvious you are doing so. Take a dozen pictures of the car in and out. Take out the floor mats on the driver's side. Put several copies of the bill of sale in the car in different places. Do not put the title or registration in the car.

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I understand not having the title or reg in the car... but please elaborate on "several copies of the bill of sale in the car in different places". Thanks, Jeff

I put the bill of sale in the center console. Tape a copy to the windshield or passenger's window. Put a copy in the frunk. It's essentially the "straight bill of lading" for the truck shipment. If you are not comfortable putting bill of sale there at least put your name, delivery address, and phone number in several places. Also verify VIN on delivery. Check the label on the dash and the sticker on the bottom of the driver's door.

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​​​​​​Good info. If it�s truly that buried and looks OEM-ish among the spaghetti back there, that�s reassuring for the resale/inspection question. And good to hear Oregon is basically OBD-only now � that�s consistent with what I�ve seen in a lot of places: if the car is happy (no codes, monitors set), nobody�s doing a deep engine-bay audit. Quick follow-up: Is the diaphragm you are referring to the serviceable regulator/diaphragm on the UAOS? Any maintenance you�ve had to do on it over time, or truly install-and-forget?

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​​​​​​Chris catching the borescope story vs reality gap is a huge credibility marker, and paying a bit more to know exactly what you�re getting makes total sense to me. I�m similar - I love the idea of BaT/C&B, but I�ve learned I�m not wired for mystery boxes either. I�d rather buy a known quantity. The seller and indie shop has been very transparent. Clear pics and a few good conversations has made the difference. If you�re willing to share: what did �turn-key refresh� include on your deal (cooling system items, AOS/vacuum lines, mounts, suspension, clutch/IMS/RMS, etc.)? This validates that buying a known example is worth the money. Stay warm!

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​​Helpful, thank you. That seller disappeared for 5 days pickup story is exactly why I�m leaning toward a patient, professional carrier. And I�m with you on not driving it home � my main reasons for shipping are avoiding the miles upfront and keeping salt off the car in week one. Quick question on J&S since you did open transport: do you remember the rough cost per mile (ballpark is fine), and did you feel good about how they handled/secured the car? Also, your HVAC foam black confetti story made me laugh � and slightly fear my first defrost. On UOA, are you sampling every oil change, or did you do a shorter first interval for a baseline?

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Full engine rebuild including nikasil lined cylinders, I specified I wanted UAOS installed, IMS, RMS, clutch, flywheel, motor and transmission mounts, brakes, brake system flush, etc. The idea was to give me a start from fresh baseline for all normal maintenance items, and all other deferred maintenance items corrected. For my peace of mind, I wanted the big 3 known modes of catastrophic failure addressed (IMS, Bore Scoring, and AOS failure) and I feel this was the right route for me.

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Yes, I was looking for any codes that affected drivability. The cam deviation on bank 1 was kinda high but still not tripping a CEL so I decided to drive it home.

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​​​​This is a really good way to frame it. The unknown quirks + long unfamiliar drive risk is exactly what I�m trying to avoid. In my case the oil was just changed, and the indie shop manager who did the PPI/DME/borescope thinks this car is unlikely to be an oil-burner� but you�re right, nothing is certain until you live with it. That�s a big part of why I�m leaning the shipping route, then baseline it at home and learn its quirks in a controlled way. When you take delivery of an unfamiliar 996, what are your top 2�3 checks before you start putting real miles on it?

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​​​​​​The bill of sale as the straight bill of lading framing makes it click: redundancy + clear chain-of-custody if paperwork gets separated in the shuffle. I�m going to follow that playbook: console+frunk+a visible copy/at minimum name/address/phone in a couple spots, and I�ll absolutely verify VIN on dash + door sticker on delivery before signing anything. Reliable mentioned they take photos+video at pickup/drop�and I�m still planning to do my own quick walk-around video+odometer photo at the Chandler drop-off and again at home. Seems like cheap insurance vs. arguing about "when did that happen"? later.

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I'd seen what is my 996 years before I bought it. "Steve" wanted me to own it when he lost his drivers license due to his illness. We discovered the Steve had lost the title when I decided to buy it. So, I flew down to see him to look for it, but the closest artifact we found was a CA DMV failure to register the car notice. (Thankfully we found the service records!). We took the notice to CA DMV to fill out the lost title report - on the back of this form was a transfer title section. So, YOLO, we filled out the lost title section and the transfer title with the idea being the worst they can say is fergedaboutit. In 15 minutes, including waiting in line, the title was transferred to me with Steve standing next to me. I wrote down my DL number on the form, but I never presented it to the very nice lady. Steve didn't have a DL and was working on getting ID, so he had nothing to show, which did not matter because she didn't ask. I wired the money into Steve's account and flew home the next day. Our mutual friend agreed to meet the truck driver about 10 days later and handed the driver the keys. It took the transport truck three days to make the 1100 mile trip home because they had a pickup in Portland. I met the truck driver at an exit off of I-90, which was about 70 miles from my home. The truck driver handed me the keys and off I went. In this entire transaction, there was no paperwork and no identification shown. I provided the VIN to the truck company when I placed the shipment order, but this whole deal happening based on friends with no ID and no paperwork blew my mind. But to answer your question, I made a recap of the service history and worked out a plan with my Indy to have him inspect it and perform the things I outlined. I missed that the expansion coolant tank was cracked, but the price of the OEM tank dropped to $190, so we replaced it along with the fluids, and a thorough radiator cleaning. The wild card was the car had sat for a year and I was concerned about bad fuel. After a couple of tanks of gas burned through short trips around my home base everything was great. Where I live, you do not have cell service more often than not, so getting a tow can be a day's ordeal in itself.

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​​That�s a serious reset to zero build. Nikasil cylinders+fresh clutch/flywheel+mounts+brakes/flush+IMS/RMS+UAOS is about as clean of a baseline as you can buy. I totally get why that peace-of-mind is worth paying up for�you essentially removed the big unknowns before the first real mile. Two quick questions if you�re open to sharing: On the Nikasil/engine work�did CS characterize it more as addressing existing bore scoring, or was it preventive because you wanted known-good? What made you choose UAOS specifically as your AOS solution (set-and-forget, track drain, serviceability, etc.)? Really appreciate you sharing this � it�s a great data point for my stewardship knowing the AOS will need replacing at some point.

Another vote for Reliable. Had mixed results with Intercity (this was some years ago). A few lessons learned: - doesn’t hurt to get a copy of their certificate of insurance (it should be current) and should be an amount that would cover 6 high-value cars (less of a concern with a brand name carrier - but it’s my policy to get a copy of their insurance before shipping) - if possible, cover your driver seat…if the truck driver has to get in/out of your car by going in/out the driver’s side window, and they are wearing shoes/boots - they might damage your seat. We had an intercity driver get black grease all over the pristine red leather (with white piping and diamond stitching) on our Lambo. Fortunately the host of our trip had a detailer avaialble and the damage wasn’t permanent. But had we put a seat cover on the driver side it would have saved some heartache. - don’t use a steering wheel cover unless it’s the type that you can see the instruments (like one of the neoprene, cheap style steering wheel covers). This can protect a leather steering wheel from dirty hands or driver’s watch/jewelry that might scratch/damage the wheel. I bought a cheap one and don’t care if it gets trashed. - Take a LOT of photos before handing it off. Photograph any areas of damage (scratches/nicks) because it’s easy to forget what was already in place once handed off. Photograph inside and outside. Photograph your wheels. - understand how the car is secured to the truck. Some companies pass straps through the wheels. Do they pad the straps before winching tight against the spoke? Are they especially careful passing the strap (with “buckle”) through when the rotors are CCB? Do they strap the car in over the tires? There are different methods. Understand how they do it, and look for any damage around where they strapped the car. - inspect CAREFULLY upon receipt. Whatever you do - DO NOT sign anything from the driver until you are satisfied that the car is in the same condition as when it was given to them. If you sign their bill of lading and discover damage afterward, you’ve lost any leverage for a claim. The driver may pressure you to sign, especially if it’s late - but don’t cave. This is probably the most important aspect of shipping. I getting quotes, I was told the car would not be handed off to a terminal, but it depends on the route and which service you are paying for. For a trip out west, we paid for guaranteed pickup and delivery dates and it was the same driver/truck on both ends in both directions. One trip with Reliable was within out state, and the driver hung out for the event over the weekend and was our ride home (this is probably unusual and we were lucky as we were the only car in a 6-car trailer). Understand if the driver is an employee of the company, or if they subcontract, IIRC, Intercity drivers are employees. I dont’ recall about Reliable. We also used Passport (FL to PA) and it was a good experience. Many carriers offer real-time tracking where you can go on an app and see the actual location of the truck. Ask about communication: how much notice are you given for delivery. Last - depending on where you want the car delivered, make certain the lighting is good (for night delivery) and that the truck has an easy way to exit the area. We’ve met trucks at local strip malls with open parking lots. We’ve had cars delivered to our house because we live on a through-street and a truck doesn’t have to turn around to exit the neighborhood. If the delivery area might not be well lit at night, bring some fully charged work lamps to look over your car. Best of luck!

One more thing to understand: if your car is on the bottom level of the 6-car carrier…how do they protect the bottom cars from fluids that might leak from the top row? Some carriers have “solid” levels (meaning it’s more like a floor rather than tracks). Some carriers will lay plastic on the bottom cars in case something leaks onto them.

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​​​​​​Cam deviation Bank 1�interesting. Do you remember the value and whether it was at warm idle? And has it stayed stable since?

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Knowing what I know now, if I were to take delivery of an unfamiliar 996, I would do the following: -Take an oil sample from the engine and send it to SPEEDiagnostix for analysis. Of course, this won�t be helpful in your situation because the oil was recently changed. -Measure the crankcase vacuum with a digital manometer to check the health of the AOS. Also, if the AOS is that of an OEM style, then I would make sure the engine oil level is at the correct level. Read this post to help identify the dipstick installed in your engine and consequently, the proper fill level of your engine oil. -I would get a smoke machine and use it to check whether any vacuum leaks exist. If you find any leaks, then I would make it a priority to fix them before driving. -Comb through the service history and see whether the water pump has been replaced within the last 3 years. Although the general consensus regarding the service life of the water pump is about 5 years, the consequence of a failed pump is catastrophic for our expensive engines. Therefore, I would rather have it done sooner than later, so that you can pile on the miles with some peace of mind. - @996.x brings up a good point about the coolant expansion tank. Check the service history for any mention of its replacement. If you think it�s the original unit, then you will really want to consider replacing it at the same time of your water pump replacement. And �while you�re in there�, I�d replace the thermostat. I prefer the LN Engineering low-temperature version , but the OE temp has worked fine as well. When you do empty your cooling system, I would recommend that you have around 10-12 gallons of distilled water available, so that you can perform two flushes. You�re going to want a vacuum filling tool like this to make the job easier. I would also change your serpentine belt at the same time. -I would inspect the brakes. Check whether the pads need immediate replacement. Check whether the fluid is dirty. You can use a brake fluid tester to see whether it has accumulated any water, and flush the fluid if necessary. -Check the tires for their air pressure, remaining tread and date codes. Take a good hard look at the inner shoulders of the rear tires . For street driven 996s/997s, this is the location of accelerated tire wear, and it�s not very easy to spot when the car is on the ground. -I would also re-torque the lug bolts properly before its first drive. -Check for any loose ball joints in the steering and suspension arms. -It might be a good idea to inspect your external lamps as well: headlights, taillights, brake lamps, and turn signals. There�s tons of distracted drivers out there nowadays - don�t make it any easier for them to crash into you. ��� Thats all I can think of for now. I don�t think I�m missing anything important, but I�ll post again if it comes to mind.

Quotes source post: 20418366

Your checklist covers it , But with some of these Third World OTR drivers out there plus the cost...I'd wait for a good weather window, buckle up and send it.

Quotes source post: 20421879

If I remember correctly, it was close to 9. I checked it after the test drive so the engine was warm and at idle. I've since had the motor rebuilt and replaced all 5 chains and guides. I'll do the chain tensioners in the near future.

Quotes source post: 20421827

​​​​​​That DMV/title story is unreal� �fergedaboutit� level YOLO and it worked 😂 And the transport handoff running on trust + keys + VIN is wild � definitely reinforces why people here preach photos/VIN verification and paperwork redundancy. On your baseline with your indie: was there anything that surprised you once it was home (beyond what you already knew from the records/plan)? Even small stuff � cracked plastics, tired hoses, odd wear, fuel issues, anything that made you go �ah, that�s why we baseline these.�

Quotes source post: 20422882

A big reason I chose the transport carrier I did was they have done over 1,000,000 moves and are in Montana (right next door). My Montana buddies are all rock solid dudes and the dispatch team was beyond the best. I had a single point of contact with dispatch and they were totally committed to getting this thing done. I knew that a highly regarded SoCal Porsche indie had taken care of her and Steve spent a $$$$load on maintenance. I was carrying a bit of pucker factor that two UOA's put to rest. I was very surprised to be showered by foam shards, but I never ran the air conditioning when I drove it. This car had spent most of its life out of the sun in Palm Springs. The only sun damage is the orange seat buckle button. The wiring is still supple and there is no corrosion. My indie, who is from SoCal said, "this is what a dry country car looks like." This car has been awesome. I've been aggressive on upgrades. Adrian's headlight upgrade, @Coopduc 's oil temp gauge, Schrader TPMS, Leather World's leather repair kit, and the UAOS-Track kit, new tires/wheels. I've got a set of Soul Performance crossover sport cats and an under the radar muffler upgrade waiting to go in once I pull her out of winter storage. I also have a manual spoiler switch override that I'm going to install next to the oil temp gauge. The last thing I would point out is some YT guy said these cars are worn out at 150,000 miles. I have no rust, rattles, everything is tight, the air conditioner runs cold when it's supposed to, the UOA reports are consistent between Blackstone and SpeedDiag. I respectfully call bull feathers on this 150,000 miles idea. Best wishes for having as much fun with your car as I'm having with mine.

Quotes source post: 20421843

This is fantastic shipping wisdom. Thank you. (Also� the �grease on pristine red Lambo leather� story physically hurt me. &#128556 A bunch of your bullets are now officially on my handoff ritual list: -I�ll request a current certificate of insurance (and sanity-check coverage level). -I�m doing lots of photos + a walkaround video + odometer pic at both ends. -I�ll cover the driver seat and use a cheap wheel cover that still lets you see the gauges (great call). I�m going to be annoying (politely) about how they strap the car and take photos of the strap contact points. And I won�t sign a thing until I�ve done a proper inspection in good light. I�m leaning Reliable (and got a nice win with the Hagerty Drivers Club 10% discount). I�m also doing a facility drop and accepting a longer window to keep cost sane, so I�m assuming there�s a decent chance the car moves around a bit � all the more reason to document everything. Quick follow-up since you�ve done this a lot: when you were getting quotes, did you ever find a practical way to confirm how many times the car gets moved/handled en route (or if it stays on the same truck), beyond just asking the dispatcher? I�m doing a facility drop + longer window, so I�m assuming it might get shuffled, and I�m curious if there�s any reliable way to validate that reality.

Quotes source posts: 20421949, 18453666

​​​​​​This is an elite checklist. Thank you for taking the time to write it out. I�m basically turning this into my first-week punch list. A few notes on my specific 60k 996.2 (keeping it public-friendly, but using what I do know from records + the recent PPI/DME/borescope): -Oil sample: agreed it�s less useful right now since the oil was just changed, but I�m planning to start a UOA trend at each oil change going forward (I only expect ~2,500 miles/year, so likely annual unless something changes). -AOS/vacuum: the shop did note some minor oil presence consistent with an AOS that may be starting to seep (saying it was common on a 996), so your point about crankcase vacuum check + smoke test good guidance. -Cooling system: the service history shows water pump + thermostat + coolant flush/bleed were done around ~52k miles (2018) � so it�s been addressed before, but it�s also not recent. What�s interesting is the car has only done roughly ~8k miles in ~8 years, so it�s �low miles� but �long time.� -Tires: thankfully those are new, so that�s one less variable on day one. Given the �time vs miles� reality � pump/thermostat/flush are ~8 years old but only ~8k miles since � what would you be most concerned about in the cooling system? Is it mainly age-related plastic/rubber (expansion tank, hoses, clamps), or do you still treat the water pump itself as a time-based ticking clock regardless of miles?

The main concern regarding the water pump is that it has a plastic impeller, which can break apart into bits, lodging itself in the tiny coolant passageways within the engine, restricting flow and causing hotspots. What�s really worrisome is that you won�t know it�s happening until it�s too late: some pieces will have broken off, but the water pump can still move enough water to avoid overheating. By the time you�re able to observe an increase in operating temperature, you�ve got a bunch of tiny impeller bits circulating within the system� good luck trying to get them all out! For your sanity�s sake, it�d be easier to replace the pump preventatively. And don�t replace your water pump with one with a metal impeller, either. When that pump fails, it will grind into the engine block and destroy it. 8 years is beyond what I am comfortable with regarding coolant, so I would want to exchange it for new. You could probably get away with reusing the same thermostat, but I am a huge fan of the low temperature thermostat, and would want to ensure that I have it installed. All of the other parts of the cooling system may need to be addressed, but it�d be very costly to replace them all at once. Their failures are easily observable: leaks, high temperatures, smell, etc.. Given the cost of addressing the more important stuff, like the water pump and AOS, the rest of the cooling system can be deferred. Of course, it�d be best to take a quick look at the radiators, hoses and clamps, but I think driving the car will reveal their weak spots.

Quotes source post: 20424825

It’s not possible in my opinion to understand how often the car will move one loaded. It’s in the carrier’s best interest to “shuffle” cars as little as possible, but since they pick up and drop off along the route - the position of cars is likely to change. When the Lambo finally arrived at our house, it was backed onto the top level and they had to drive a GT40 off first (and reload once done with our car). The driver was respectful, and careful and the car arrived in pristine condition (it was bought new at a FL dealer, and sent for PPF before shipping - something I would not do again). We had a friend with a Gallardo and Murcielago who had a really bad shipping experience. The driver ripped a side mirror off his Murci backing it out of the truck. Admittedly, the Murcielago is an extremely wide car (compared to most, and especially to a much narrower Porsche) but even so it was driver carelessness. Our friend taught us some of the protocol, and my extremely “puckered” husband came up with the rest, along with me. I did all the phone calls and got quotes, insurance certificates (surprisingly, a couple were out of date but we were assumed the renewal hadn’t arrived yet in the mail…). If your car has the furthest to go, and is first picked up - it’s likely they’d put it up top, toward the cab, because they don’t want to move cars as it’s a hassle, and time consuming, and o increases chances for mishaps. I think your list is sound, and your attitude is perfect! “Polite” is always good, and in the past we’ve tipped a driver at pickup, and assuming all is good…on drop off (in the case of our Lambo getting trashed, no tip for him!). It’s a gamble doing it that way, but we figure if they guy is happy with the situation when he’s leaving, maybe he’ll take extra care in hopes of more tip on the other end. In general I think most drivers are conscientious and want to do a good job. Of course there’s always one… But a company that has high profile clients (like Reliable or the other name brand carriers) want their reputation intact and good customer service is the way to accomplish that. Funny story, we tracked the Passport truck (with Lambo) feverishly as it zigged and zagged north from FL. At one point it stopped at Carolina Speedway…and we had nightmares of our car running hot laps for everyone in sight! (They were either dropping off or picking up a car, but it did make us do a double take). The driver had a very heavy accent and was hard to understand but was a super nice guy once we finally met him. The delivery took longer than predicted due to stops he was able to gather along the way, so we had to be really patient. But it was all worth it and we had a blast with that car for 5 years and 20k miles. Lots of great memories!

Quotes source post: 20422664

Appreciate the detail � and that�s a great tip on checking cam deviation with an OBD2 reader before a long drive. Interesting you mentioned Bank 1 cam deviation ~9 at warm idle but no CEL. I�m still learning what �normal vs. watch it� looks like on these cars. Quick question: when you saw ~9, were you looking at it fully warm at idle, and was that degrees (� range) or some other scale your tool used? And did it fluctuate much with RPM (say idle vs 2k)? I�m asking because my car�s PIWIS/DME looked pretty clean overall (no active codes, low over-rev drama), but I�d love to understand what numbers would make you say: � �monitor it� � �plan a tensioner/chain/guides refresh� � �stop driving and investigate� Doing chains/guides during the rebuild makes sense.

Quotes source post: 20422191

​​​​​​Appreciate that � and you�re not wrong about the �OTR wildcard� piece. For what it�s worth, I ended up booking enclosed with Reliable and I�m doing terminal drop-off at their facility (vs broker pickup), so that reduced both price and my stress level a bit. But I do like your �weather window + send it� logic in principle. Out of curiosity: what�s the most extreme edge you�d still drive in March? Like� would you do cold/dry roads in the 20s, light rain, flurries, or is it strictly above-freezing and bone dry for you?

Quotes source post: 20423365

​​​​​​This is awesome � and honestly, the �dry country car� description is exactly what I�m hoping mine feels like once it�s home. �Supple wiring, no corrosion, no weird gremlins� is the dream. It�s been primarily a Southwest US car for it�s life. Also: the UOA x2 putting pucker factor to rest is such a good reminder that oil analysis isn�t just �trend data,� it�s confidence data. And the foam-shard shower LOL� noted. I�m mentally preparing to get baptized by 996 HVAC foam at some point. A couple quick follow-ups if you don�t mind: 1. On your UOAs � did you start with Blackstone vs SpeedDiag for different reasons (turnaround/detail), or did you just want independent confirmation? And what interval did you run them at early on? 2. On the transport side � did you ever get a sense of whether the car stayed on one truck, or did you just assume it could be moved and focus on photos/VIN checks? And yes� I�m fully with you on the �150k = worn out� narrative. A cared-for, dry-climate 996 with clean UOAs and no rust/rattles is basically the counterexample in motion. Appreciate all of this � it�s exactly the kind of lived experience that helps the next guy make smarter choices.

Quotes source post: 20430778

I daily drove my 4S year round in north central Indiana for 4 years. With all seasons on, it drives like a tank in the snow and cold from my experience. Summer tires in the snow is still a skating rink

Quotes source post: 20430795

I did UOA with Blackstone when I was flying my Cessnas - they were very popular in the general aviation community. So, my first was with them. I am a huge fan of Lake Speed Jr's YT channel, so I wanted to support his company Speed Diagnostics. He also responded to a question about oil before I was a customer and that goes a long way with me. SpeedDiagnostics is a bit more expensive, but their turn around is a bit quicker because they use FedEx 2Day. The numbers came out the same between the two tests. I never had the ***** to ship a car, but my 996 sat for a year and the road home is about as desolate as it gets in the US. I held my breath and tried to look the other way after it was picked up. I believe the car stayed on the truck. My car is a 999 code paint, completely custom color, done at the factory. I had photos, but I knew it was mine. Once I started looking around, there are a lot of cars being shipped on trucks, so I'm over my hesitancy to ship. While I thoroughly enjoy my 996, it isn't a valuable collector car. I bought it to drive it. I owned a Porsche 40 years ago and was a maniac about dust, a rock chip, etc to the point I didn't enjoy owning it. I certainly cared about the car arriving in the same shape it left California and was really happy it did. I would not hesitate to ship a car with that company again/

Quotes source post: 20424926

PPI noted coolant slightly below min, no visible leaks, and the seller already replaced the expansion tank cap + topped off during the 60k service recently. For baseline, I�m leaning toward a coolant exchange + pressure test right after delivery, and then deciding whether to do the water pump preventatively (within 12-18 month) based on time (8 years) vs waiting for symptoms. Would you still recommend the low-temp thermostat if driven mainly spring-fall in the Upper Midwest?

Yes, I�d put it on my car regardless of location.

Quotes source post: 20426052

​​​​​​This is super helpful � especially the part about accepting that the �shuffle count� is unknowable and focusing instead on smart protocol and documentation. Quick follow-ups on two practical things: 1. Tipping: You mentioned tipping at pickup and then again at delivery (assuming everything is clean). Do you still recommend that approach with a name-brand enclosed carrier like Reliable? And what range have you found is appropriate so it�s a genuine �thanks for taking care of it� without being weird about it? 2. Tracking: That Passport tracking story is hilarious/terrifying 😂 � on the carriers that offer tracking, how detailed is it usually (I haven't checked on Reliable)? -Is it basically just �truck location on a map,� or do you ever get meaningful status updates (loaded/unloaded, next stop, ETA windows)? -Any tips for how often to check in without becoming that customer? Really appreciate you sharing the real-world lessons here � it�s gold for those of us trying to get a car home without adding a new scratch-and-dent chapter to the provenance binder.

Quotes source post: 20430803

​​​​​​Great intel � and respect for daily-driving a 4S through Indiana winters. That�s basically the �earned your badge� version of advice. And yes� summer tires in snow = skating rink. I actually lived in Indy back in the day and (confession) I sent my �79 RX-7 into a ditch once and did a few spins � some voluntary� some deeply involuntary � as a dumb kid. So I�m not trying to re-audition for that sequel. Quick follow-up since you�ve lived it: -What all-season model did you run (Michelin PSAS4 / Continental DWS06+ / something else), and did you ever run a dedicated winter set? -Any �4S in winter� gotchas you learned the hard way (PSM behavior, clearance in deeper snow, salt/corrosion spots, etc.)? I�m only planning ~2,500 miles/year and will avoid salt when I can, but I want to understand the true edges for the �weather surprise� scenario.

Quotes source post: 20430830

​​​​​​The �numbers came out the same� between Blackstone and SpeedDiagnostics is the exact kind of confidence-builder I�m after. And I love your point about supporting Lake Speed Jr. because he actually engaged before you were even a customer � that kind of earned trust matters. Also� that 999-code factory custom color� pretty hard to �accidentally deliver the wrong one� when it�s a unicorn. What color is it, and how did you confirm it was factory (option sticker/build sheet/COA)? And I really relate to this part: I bought it to drive it� I used to be a maniac about dust/rock chips� That�s basically the line I�m trying to walk: stewardship, not shrink-wrap. Document it, maintain it, drive it. Quick follow-up (one thing): When you did your first couple UOAs after the car had sat, did you do anything special to �normalize� the results � like: -run one short interval first (ex: 500�1,000 miles) before your normal change, or -just drive it normally and sample at the first full oil change?

Quotes source post: 20436598

1. Tipping is tricky as there is no �custom� to follow (at least not that I�m aware of). We did tip with the �name brand� carrier drivers. It�s been awhile and I don�t recall the amounts, but my gut would be to aim for somewhere between 5% and 10% of the transport fee, or if that seems �off�, then $50 or $100 on pickup, and depending on how things go�another $50 or $100 on delivery. It�s tricky because you�re paying a lot (likely well over $1000 or $2000 to ship an expensive car) so you don�t want to appear �cheap�. On the other hand, I don�t know that tipping drivers is customary, so I�d assume that there isn�t an expectation. Therefore, ANY tip is appreciated. It�s not like a restaurant where there�s an expectation, and it�s understood that the tip is counted-on as part of their wage. The �risk� is that you could tip someone on the front end and become dissatisfied at pickup, which increases your sunk cost. Of course the idea of tipping up front is that you receive better handling because the driver appreciates your kindness. 2. Tracking for us (with Passport) was a map with a dot showing the location and lines showing the route driven. I don�t recall much more detail than that. But it would depend solely on the app/software they are using. It�s a good question to ask up front. Like tracking your car from Emden to the arrival port (via a ship-tracking app) it can be very frustrating, and sometimes the information is delayed so it�s not real-time. I don�t recall knowing the next stop. The ETA window was learned when the driver called us.

When I shipped my son�s car to Phoenix for college last fall I put an Apple AirTag in it. It worked awesome for us to plan when we would need to be there to meet the driver and accept the car. Worth $25 if you don�t already have one IMO

Quotes source post: 20436902

​​​​​​Great insight. Tipping: the way you framed it makes perfect sense: not �expected like a restaurant,� but a genuine thanks-for-taking-care-of-it gesture. Tracking: I checked with Reliable and they do offer GPS tracking, but it sounds like it�s mostly the practical version you described: truck location + driver/disptach coordination, with the ETA window tightening as it gets closer. I�m doing a facility drop with a longer window, so I�m mentally accepting �some shuffling may happen� and focusing on photos/VIN checks + delivery inspection protocol. I will to avoid becoming the guy that refreshes it every 7 minutes like it�s a FedEx package!

Quotes source post: 20436621

My indie says �every time I turn around it�s a different color� when he has it. In direct sunlight 99/100 will say it�s silver. In morning or evening light it�s lavender, in between it�s baby blue. I have not been able get good pictures that reflect what I am seeing and I�ve had several conversations that start with, �what color is this?�The person who ordered this color have deep knowledge about car paint. 999 is on the option sticker. I follow the owner�s manual directives to not warm up at idle, instead drive it for 5 minutes not exceeding 4,000 rpm. Once she�s warmed up I drive it like I stole it. Within the confines of not being stupid. These engines are designed to be run hard and it�s easy to see they long for the open road over stop and go traffic. This makes UOA reflect how it�s operated. I am hoping to pull her out of hibernation in the next couple of weeks and am champing at the bit.

Quotes source post: 20436621

My indie says �every time I turn around it�s a different color� when he has it. In direct sunlight 99/100 will say it�s silver. In morning or evening light it�s lavender, in between it�s baby blue. I have not been able get good pictures that reflect what I am seeing and I�ve had several conversations that start with, �what color is this?�The person who ordered this color have deep knowledge about car paint. 999 is on the option sticker. I follow the owner�s manual directives to not warm up at idle, instead drive it for 5 minutes not exceeding 4,000 rpm. Once she�s warmed up I drive it like I stole it. Within the confines of not being stupid. These engines are designed to be run hard and it�s easy to see they long for the open road over stop and go traffic. This makes UOA reflect how it�s operated. I am hoping to pull her out of hibernation in the next couple of weeks and am champing at the bit.