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YOUR RESEARCHRMS / IMS Snowball
Reported or suspected cause
extremely durable engine
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Reported cause
I love the 3.6, and it has proven to be an extremely durable engine on the street and track.
Leading evidence: 'extremely durable engine' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'extremely durable engine' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check plastic/rubber cooling system parts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
This is probably the best time for you to get out of the car, then.
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Suggestion
Check all plastic/rubber cooling system parts and replace everything that is questionable.
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Suggestion
Check all power steering rubber/plastic parts and replace if questionable.
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Suggestion · Original poster
They recommend repair, thus removing the transmission and...
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Suggestion
Some parts can lead to catastrophic engine failure such as the IMSB, Water Pump and AOS, but are very easy to upgrade/replace so you can bullet proof the engine.
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21 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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My trusted indy found a drip under my 71k mile '03 C4S crankcase. Recent oil analysis and oil filter inspection - clean.
They recommend repair, thus removing the transmission and... RMS, clutch, flywheel, IMS (LN RND), front and rear diff service.
Can you give a feedback on the "While I'm In There" scenario?
Thanks.
Very common leak. I love the 3.6, and it has proven to be an extremely durable engine on the street and track. But you gotta do the right things to bullet proof it, which is extremely easy to do.
Your list makes sense: "RMS, clutch, flywheel, IMS (LN RND), front and rear diff service". Remember, its a 23 year old car and parts get old, so I would drop the engine and add the following to your list.
1. Drop the sump to see whats in it and cut open the oil filter to see whats in it.
2. Scope the bores to see condition
3. Replace the factory AOS with the UAOS w/track drain even if you dont ever plan on tracking the car. There are many other street benefits of the UAOS T
4. Replace the water pump with a new OEM one every 5 years.
5. Check all plastic/rubber cooling system parts and replace everything that is questionable. You will eventually get a leak. Why not consider refreshing tanks and hoses. Low Temp thermostat is also a good upgrade. Have your indy pressure test the cooling system and perform a flush to make sure no previous owner water pump fan bits are in it.
6. Check all power steering rubber/plastic parts and replace if questionable. You will eventually get a leak, why not consider refreshing the hoses.
7. Replace all belts and pulleys.
8. Replace spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel injectors, MAF and oxy sensors to keep the AFR in check and mitigate risk of bore scoring.
9. Replace oil sender unit. Damn thing will go bad when you least expect it and scare the hell out of you.
10. Consider replacing oil cooler or at least the rubber underneath.
11. The condition of your bores will tell you what oil to run. Nevertheless, run the best damn oil that is high viscosity/high moly and change it at least 2x a year.
Not a cheap list, but its a list that will keep the 3.6 humming along in top form for a long time.
Best of luck.
I'm in the same boat, going to drop my engine along with doing the chain pads (high cam deviations). I was lucky enough when searching for some parts for my car I found a new Luk flywheel and Sachs clutch kit for my car in AZ, contacted the guy and he shipped them to me. $450 for the parts and $50 shipping. Saved about $850 right there. I also just bought a new dual row retrofit and the LN tools for $800 from a guy who did not install them. I'm on my original bearing, figured I would change it out at the same time.
@GC996
is on the money. I'd only add that you might already have the 997 ignition coil packs which are an upgrade (longer living) if not then that's what you get. The 997 version.
Yea. Some of the stuff can wait, some of the stuff its "I'm there.. saving labour"
For example the oil heat exchange is very easy to access when the gearbox is out. If those seals are original then their future is bleak.
Water pump known weakness. So if you're breaking the cooling system (to replace the seals on the oil heat exchanger) then you're already in for a flush.. So may as well do the pump and the low temp thermostat (more important on a 996.1 I believe) but still worth the $50 or so for one..
and so on....
Just my 2 cents.. The IMS bearing should be done with any clutch replacement,, just because $2500 US if your not doing your own work.. Just to pull the motor so "while your in there cover the bases.
For me now,, with a all new engine, that means my IMS solution will get an inspection each time the clutch is out over its life.
Depending on the size of the leak.
In Australia, New South Wales to be exact, cars over five years of age need to be checked in order to renew registration.
t's known as a pink slip. MOT is what the UK brethren call it.
A car needs to be reviewed by a qualified mechanic. Oil drips are a failure point.
Do some US states have a similar process? maybe that's why?
NZ doesn't fail a vehicle on an oil leak, if they did basically no classic cars would be on the road!
I can't imagine a 60 year old Jag being leak proof....
Thanks for the responses.
I've done plugs, coils and motor mounts. The car, from CA, has always been garaged and serviced well. Little rain or weathe exposure. NO engine out service to my knowledge.
I love the car, but after 7 years, I don't see it as my forever car, so I don't really want to pull the motor.
Replace oil sender unit
Say more about this one. If it goes bad the failure will be that oil pressure isnt being recorded at the guage but there is no issue with the actual oil pressure as a result of this failure alone correct?
First time it happens your heart stops. Second time you still wonder and worry. Third time its just a pita and you know what it is. Then it just becomes a regular service item like the water pump. Luckily its a pretty inexpensive part that easy to replace.
Fwiw,
@mtnroads
asked for a "while I am in there" list while doing the RMS/IMS. So I supplied a pretty comprehensive list of failure points on a 20+ year old 996.2.
Some parts can lead to catastrophic engine failure such as the IMSB, Water Pump and AOS, but are very easy to upgrade/replace so you can bullet proof the engine.
All others can leave you stranded on the side of the road but are not catastrophic. No big deal if you are driving close to home. But if you want to enjoy a longer road trip every now and then, or if you use your 996 as a daily driver, you may want to consider the entire list for carefree drives
As always, it comes down to your objectives for the car and the money that you are willing to spend to keep it running safely or presenting it properly for a sale versus what you can sell it for.
No right or wrong answer. Just lots of paths.
