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YOUR RESEARCHHow To: Headlight Switch Replacement
Leading reported evidence
Run into a snag, i think
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Leading evidence: 'Run into a snag, i think' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'good idea' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check off both of them and be done' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I don't actually remember but it's probably a good idea to.
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Suggestion
I�ll probably change the headlight switch so I can check off both of them and be done with it.
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Suggestion
Did you have to disconnect the battery before changing the light switch out?
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Suggestion
Would removing the panel with the light switch give better access to change the ignition switch...I don’t really want to crawl under the dash to do it?
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Outcome without a verified action link
I switched mine out and it fixed the no dash/instrument lights and also the licence plate lights.
My symptoms were the main headlights not always coming on. Internet recommended I replace the headlight switch. This was an intermittent problem, so it's not 100% confirmed this was the fix yet. But! this is a how-to not a diagnosis thread.
This is pretty simple. You'll need a T20, a small thin pokey thing, a 24mm socket, & interior trim removal tools. Or a flat blade screwdriver...if yer nasty. Seriously, a set of trim removal tools is $15, just buy one:
LINK
LINK
I used a generic headlight switch off Amazon. It fits & it works. Cost about $50 less than OEM.
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Remove the plastic ****. Pull it out like so:
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Then use the pokey thing to poke the little tab on the bottom of the ****. This is a spring loaded release, it's also metallic, so a small flat blade screwdriver won't damage anything.
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Now that the **** is off, you need to remove the fasteners. There are 3 in total. First one is hiding in this slanted slot underneath the ****.
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The other two are over here.
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Grab your interior trim removal tool of choice. There are two detents this trim piece clicks into. One at the top, one at the bottom. I recommend bottom one first, it's easier. You will hear some plastic popping and making noises, that's normal.
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Off it comes.
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Give it the 'ole wiggle & pull routine.
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Here we are with it as far out as it will come.
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There are two connectors you need to remove. This is the first one.
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Then for the headlight switch itself. You can wiggle wiggle pull again, or use the tool to slowly work it off.
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Now it should be completely free. Get your 24mm socket and loosen that nut. Mine was only hand tight.
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Once the nut is off, you'll have to pop out the last piece of trim. It's got 3 little retaining tabs. You need to both lift the tab & push on the plastic piece. I struggled not to damage this thing. Ultimately, I was successful, but I found this step to be the most tedious.
Now that I think about it, might be possible to skip this step....
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I didn't bother to pull the plastic trim piece all the way out.
You have to give the switch a small twist and slide it out through the slots. You might be able to twist and remove the headlight switch without removing the plastic trim piece. I didn't try it, but you're welcome to.
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That's it. That's how you get the switch out. Here are some tips for reinstall. The process is just repeat what you did.
Becare not to put the switch in upside down. The slot in the switch was facing down relative to how it's installed in the car. The plastic **** removed in step one has to click into that little slot on the threaded portion of the switch.
Slide the switch back into place, and turn it into position. Gently push the plastic trim piece back in, and reinstall the nut on the threads. I went just a smidge over hand tight.
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Reconnect the wires
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It's time for a wiggle push routine.
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Be careful you don't snag the open / close actuator on anything while you're wiggle / pushing.
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Also, make sure these tabs don't move while you're wiggle / pushing. One of mine pushed out while I was reinstalling and I had to remove the trim piece, relocate it, and reinstall the trim piece. This step is annoying & tedious.
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Push the **** back on and you're done!
Thanks for the tutorial, koth442. I have a somewhat related question. Would removing the panel with the light switch give better access to change the ignition switch...I don’t really want to crawl under the dash to do it?
Thanks, John
Unfortunately, I don't think so. It might let in a little bit of light so it's easier to see while you're under there, but that's it.
I do have one tip for replacing the ignition switch: A small ratcheting screwdriver that fits in your palm like this one
LINK
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. It was short enough I could squeeze it in there and easier to hold onto. I did that replacement a few years ago, sadly I didn't take any pictures or do a write up.
I didn't notice which means either it wasn't an issue or I goofed. It was 22F on the drive to work today and I was getting hot air out of that vent if that means anything.
Unless you're referring to the ignition switch, you have to remove a vent hose for that. It wasn't too bad from what I remember.
Well, after 23 years my headlight switch gave up. It moves to turn on the parking lights but that is it. I know this is a slightly old thread, but I thought I would give some kudos to the OP for posting it up. Anyone recently checked out the costs of the headlight switch? OMG I'm seeing anywhere from $148 to $198 and I don't even know if they are available. Guess I'm going to find out.
Note to self: always take pictures when undoing stuff.
Hey guys, ran into a snag, I think. Headlight switch replaced, everything plugged back into the switch and checked and double checked. BUT, there is another wire connector behind the dash panel and I cannot figure out what it connects to. It is a 4 plug connector that is coming from behind the left side of the panel. Where does it go? See pics. Is it for something that resides where the oval is in the dash panel? Maybe a microphone for the phone system. 99 C2
OP, I wish I had seen your thread before tackling this. I used another set of instructions where the guy who posted forgot to mention the third screw tucked inside the switch bezel.
Now I have some JB weld and related plastic repairs on my hands - irritating
Thanks
vetfever
Yup, but there was no way I could get at the second set screw to allow me to remove the old switch. Not with my 6ft 4 frame long arms, etc. it was beyond tight under the dash. At one point my head was stuck under the brake pedal 😂
So after finding this thread and seeing how much easier it is to access the set screws, I pulled the vent assembly. 21-year old plastic is a little brittle but I should be able to fix it up OK
I�ll probably change the headlight switch so I can check off both of them and be done with it. Who knows, maybe my daytime running lights will start working. 😂.
Thanks Mike
That’s a nice and helpful tutorial replacing the headlight switch thank you.
The only thing I would add is that when you put the 24 mm nut on, the tutorial says only about hand tight or a little more. I found that I had to crank it down a little further than that because the tolerances were off and the headlight **** would not catch with the switch. The tolerances are a little bit off considering that there’s a whole Lotta plastic in this – 20 year old plastic No less; and the switch which I got that was OEM is now made in China. I noticed the previous switch in the car which probably was original was made in Italy. Say no more!
The additional tightening of that nut brought the switch and the black **** a little closer to let it catch and mate to each other. Otherwise the **** just slid up and down on the switch receptacle.
For anyone trying the excellent OP procedure, please make sure that when you wiggle the assembly to put it back in (covered in the OP with picture), the vent-actuating lever does not get caught and break during the wiggling/fitting step. I didn't pay attention to this part and the lever broke at the point which it snaps into the louvre. I have JB Welded it back and am now waiting for it to cure before attempting to installing it a second time.
Note:
Above picture is from the OP.
@koth442
hi.. your write up here is fantastic thanks for sharing... one question, does a new switch fix the issue of when you pull the slight switch out it wont hold 1st or 2nd position to activate the fog lights?
my light switch is working on my 996 and turns on the headlights, but will not stay in position 1 or 2 when i pull it out. saw this other post stating a new switch should fix the position 1 and 2 function, but I also saw another post were a guy replace the switch and he still had the issue.... would greatly appreciate any feedback from those who have sorted this out. thx
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...tch-issue.html
