2nd Blackstone oil check

The 1st oil check was done with Porsche dealer oil SYN40 A40 Oil was run 4.494 miles. I didnt have top oil or add Main comments too much cooper The 2nd oil check was done with Indy used Mobile 1 Syn 0-40 Oil was run 4,087 miles I did op off with 1 quart of oil Main comments More pistion and bearing wear Both oil changes no metal particles were found, recent water pump repair yielded zero metal or plastic particles. I have been adding Techron recently every 3 months to 4 months I didnt want Mobile 1 on the last oil change I feel its ok for normal cars but not the 996. What does the board think of the results?

I think you have piston and bearing wear. Seems slow, its elevated and will probably progress faster over time, I would keep driving until its way, way worse and do the rebuild when that time comes, but that could be years down the line. As for oil opinions/recommendations, you'll see a thousand recommendations, but DT40 will be the resounding majority. Personally I use molygen 5w40 with ceratec additive (because previous owner used ceratec, and my oil analysis wasnt bad), but it probably does **** all. Maximize that molybdenum babyyyyyy.

As you see more wear, I would recommend something along the lines of 5w50 for oil weight. FR50 from Driven is a great option. As our engines age, the added viscosity is really helpful. The added moly in FR50 could also help keep wear under control. I would run it with a 3k mile OCI for the next 2 and test to see how the trend changes. I know Techron is a popular option on here but I'd urge you to try using Red Line SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner. It has a significantly higher percentage of PEA (the good stuff that does much of the cleaning). I've used this stuff for a while and upon checking my pistons with a bore scope, a lot of the hard baked on carbon was cleared up. I was just as surprised as some other folks that saw it.

I would recommend bumping the lower number up, from 5W to 10W. And if the wear is the same, run it with 20W. Lake Speed Jr. has some videos discussing wear vs viscosity vs friction that show the relations. As you mention, the wear will only increase over time. Maybe a different oil will help slow down the wear, but what you don't know is how bad one bearing is relative the others or how thick the interface layer is that is wearing. Tread carefully. Maybe search for all the UOA's you can find and put together some plots to know what 'normal' is. Then guess at severity. Good luck!

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I would definitely start running a different engine oil with higher values of Moly such as Driven DT40. If you want to stay with an A40 oil, then chose LiquiMoly 5W40 with a Ceratec additive to boost moly levels. IMHO. I wouldn't advise higher viscosity values beyond 5W50 unless you're tracking the car.

After way too much research and overthinking, I settled on Redline 10w-50 for our 996 and 986 S water coolers (and their 10w-60 for the 993) years ago, mainly because of the higher than typical additive levels including Moly. Also worth noting that the Porsche Classic oil for the 996/986 is 5w-50 weight.

As car owners, we are all wrestling with the same thing. How to keep a 20+ year old engine running as long as possible. Doesn't matter if it's an air cooled, water cooled, mezger, whatever. They will all need a rebuild someday. Can't defy physics. That's why oil testing and running the highest quality "right" oil" for your circumstances is paramount to prolonging engine life.

Thanks for the info guys, yeah I understand its got the miles for the report to state piston and bearing wear. The oil in the car now is Motul 8100 x-cess 5w 40, which I was happy that the INDY used good oil. I will send him the results as well since, I will have to determine a plan for the next repairs that I have received a quote in the amount of $8.8k+ for clutch, rms, ims,PS hose leak repair, 1 fan assembly and another oil change in Feb, If I decide to repair. Some of the parts are marked up too high vs getting them online. Damn suspension is now being noisy and car is now having some paint issues and roof gasket issues.

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Nnnooooo don't tell me these things...

You have the 20 year old car blues. The cool thing is that once you fix these things, they will stay fixed for a really long time!

Yup I got sucked into Porsche a long time ago, becaise I am insane and love the 996.2 Targa lol ...We will dif be at 997 Targa money when this is done. I dont want to start another thread, but I ended up buying full leather grey interior: Dash, glovebox, door panels, rear panels, A and B pillars, console, Upper roof piece. How hard is it to remove the dash on these cars? I know these are a lot of screws and some hard to reach places. I would like to do a two tone grey and black interior (Like below but with a black glovebox) I tried to find the boxtser red interior but it was no go. The grey inerior just popped up at a good deal, so I grabbed it.

Hey! That's my car! I don't know what you want to replace, but pulling the instrument cluster is easy. Pulling the whole dash not so easy. You posted the 8K bill for items above, no way would I do that if I had your oil analysis results. You have high copper which is not going to get better with time. I don't know if you have seen these recent threads: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-analysis.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...nalysis-2.html Look at my oil analysis. It's somewhat similar to yours. No way would I change the IMS bearing only to have an internal sleeve bearing go in your engine down the road. I am just driving it and if it fails, it fails. I will buy a short block from Porsche, get the heads rebuilt and be back on the road. Would be a fun project for me, even though I don't want to spend the money. The car performed flawlessly from IL to FL last week. I will run the oil a minimum of 2.5K - 3K miles and then send out for analysis again. If you look at my analysis, my report breaks it down into wear metals, oil properties and oil additives. You can then look at that report and understand your Blackstone report better. I don't understand why they don't categorize their report like that. Best of luck!

If the cars a keeper, I would refresh everything you wanna refresh and upgrade and then when you are ready get a rebuild or a short block. Its inevitable, every Porsche still in existence regardless of whether it's air or water cooled will need a rebuild someday.

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yes it is Paul and its the inspiration for my 2 tone color change in my Targa. As for results, the cooper went down from 17 to 13 and lead, iron went up. Its funny that Porsche are the only vehicles I have owned that are old and still last longer than any other manufactures I have owned. I now have a 21 yr old vehicle with 77k miles that seems to be running strong. Theres a lot of comments here and I awlays will take those into account. As for your comment to not stick $8k into the car, well I did my own research on the parts the Indy is charging vs buying online myself. Seems I found the same parts online and some Porsche and some OEM, were I save $1700. Which would bring down the total to $7,169.86. .....I still need to figure things out

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Hmmm every Porsche owners dilemma $8k now and later on down the road $30K? What was that book, The Golden Porsche

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Just a fact of mechanical life of owning a 20+ year old Porsche. It's not an investment. It's a hobby. Just be glad you didn't buy a 992 for $250k and you are now trading it in for $180k on a new one. The most luxurious bath you will ever take is from flipping cars.