Performance Brakes & Rotors Advice? ?> Jahre Clubsport

Fellas, Seeking advice and suggestions to enhance braking performance on my Jahre Clubsport build. Car currently has Sebro slotted rotors and Performance Friction 08 pads. I�m hesitant on the current setup as I�ve felt some fade and vibrations under heavy braking. Became alarmed on a recent very spirited drive through the canyons, coming into a turn under heavy braking and the brakes began vibrating with a bit of softness/fade. Could have been brake fade as we were SINGING through this canyon for a hot minute. I intend to track this and drive her like she�s meant to be driven. Researching the Sebro, seems to be under valued for performance. With a bit of due diligence, I became intrigued with the Brembo Type 3 350mm rotors upgrade for the 996 GT3. Thoughts?

Do you have a Carrera or a GT3? GT3 parts don’t fit directly on Carreras. I previously had a 350mm Renegade BBK in the front but the rotors weighed a lot! I upgraded to Girodisc 340mm Front and 325mm Rear and I’m extremely happy. Almost the same sized rotor but a LOT less weight. I’m very happy with the braking performance.

I�ve got a Carrera 40AE Jahre. Haven�t yet crossed checked the measurements to the GT3 brakes but the car does have GT3 bits, factory, along with several GT3 bolt ons in the build. I learn more about this spec continuously. Appreciate the insight into your setup! I�ll look into that.

Drewski, a couple of options to consider depending on what you are looking for as it pertains to braking power requirements and out of pocket costs. Option 1: Simple cost effective upgrades to 996 OEM brake system. 1. Better rotors and pads. Which you have already done. 2. Bed in your new brakes properly. 3. Run high temp brake fluid and keep it fresh. 4. Add GT3 brake air ducts for more cooling. Very cheap upgrade. 5. Don't ride the brakes. See 9 below. 6. Some have upgraded to a GT3 master cylinder for a stiffer pedal feel. 7. Make sure you are running fresh high quality, high performance tires with grip. 8. Use the proper tire pressures. 9. Attend a PCA autocross and hpde event to get instruction. Too many newbys don't know the first thing about high performance driving and get in trouble. Option 2: If you want more stopping power from bigger rotors that uses your oem calipers, you can buy the 996 Girodisc Kit that Tex mentioned. Gives you substantially bigger rotors in a 2 piece floating hat configuration. Plenty of benefits to it for a very good price. Once you have spent the initial money, all you have to do is replace the rotors. The hats are reusable. Option 3: If you want bigger calipers and bigger rotors in a floating hat system, then you will need to go to a Brembo GT Big Brake kit or equivalent from another manufacturer, which is what I did. The bigger calipers, and 355F/345R rotors with Pagid Yellow R29 pads provide incredible braking power on the track and street. In fact they have saved me many times from irratic chicago drivers that love to change lanes without looking. They are designed for the 996 amd therefor a perfect fit, but very expensive. Imho, worth every penny, but it may be overkill if you never plan on tracking the car. The Girodisc system may make more sense for the street. For sure, they also fill up the wheels nicely. Good luck with the brake enhancements!

First: U need to do a complete fluid flush and put a race quality product in there. It requires maintenance and will have to be cycled through based in how many track days u do and has to be fully flushed once a year. I use Endless 650 but Castrol Srf is very good and there r others. Second: Pick a break pad that works 4 u. If u choose a race pad like a Pagid29 yellow or a ferodo 3.12 u will never have fade. understand the draw backs like dust, noise and u have to get them to temp for full performance. Third: Rotors dont give u much. Buying a spacer kit and going to 350mm front and back is fine and fairly cost effective. The larger rotor just helps cool the system better and maginally helps with mechnical advantage. Stock style rotors r all u need. If u buy them through fcpeuro u get free replacements. I would only set it up so it used readily available parts (stock stuff but from a different app) so parts will be cheaper. Also make sure u inspect the calipers and rebuild if needed. Before i swiched to a full gt3 set up i ran a big brake spacer kit from Martin in the UK (he still may be on this board?) And a 350mm rotor from a panarama. In the back it was a simple spacer and a 350mm rotor from a 6-turbo (i think). I use Pagid29 yellows. The car never had a problem and still doesnt with this set up and gt3 calipers running 45minute stints at Watkins Glen or any other track on the east coast.

I went with Girodisc rotors front/rear and Porterfield pads. I haven't pushed them as far as it sounds as though you have, but I have gone moderately deep into them. So far they have been very linear and confidence inspiring. One thing that I will mention about Girodisc is that the rear rotors are quite a bit heavier than stockers (the fronts do save weight though). I like the balanced look and performance of having larger rotors on both axles, so I don't mind it. But it might play into some folks' decision process.

I find these threads amusing - I ran stock size Sebro rotors, a GT3 Master, GT3 ducts, SRF fluid and DTC 60 pads and wouldn't get any fade in 20 minutes of 1+G braking. The wheels would be so hot if you accidentally touched them while confirming hot pressure, it would leave a mark. The stock'ish brake capability of the 996 is the highest performing aspect of the car in my opinion. If you are having fade on the street, you can do the very modest upgrades I had and if you still have issues, you have a mechanical problem. Your pulsing, if relatively minor sounds like a warped or built up rotor. How did you bed in the pad/rotor combo ? Or, if the pulsing through the pedal was severe and was accompanied by the pedal being rock hard and a feeling like the brakes became unresponsive, you encountered ICE mode which is a problem you are not going to solve with parts, you have to drive around it. The girodisc upgrade is not going to offer a performance benefit that can be measured by anything other than your bias to wanting them to be better because you spent a bunch of money on them.

All great feedback. Thank you. I've got a good amount of track experience, yet regrettably, am not as robust with experience in wrenching. Prior to that canyon run, I had the car serviced, inclusive of a brake flush. Obviously the weight transfer is different in the 911 as I came off a Shelby GT350R but nevertheless I�ve gotta figure out the situation before I go 150+ off the straight into turn one at Podium Club. I�m told this baddie with its current setup will put pressure on new GT3�s on track which just tickles my fancy. 😈

For reference, here�s its current specs: The Build: Porsche Tequipment Roll Bar BBS LM Michelin Pilot Sports Recaro Pole Positions P1 Houndstooth Inserts 997 Cup OMP Steering Wheel Rennline Quick Release Getty Adjustable GT3 Wing H&R Coilovers (currently on car) Moton Clubsport 2-Way Coilover Suspension w/ remote reservoirs. Current spring weights are 900# front, 1100# rear. All trust rebuilt Jan. 2020 by Burton Shocks. (Planning to install these baddies) 997 Cup Car Front Top Plates, TRG Rear Top Plates TRG Adjustable Front & Rear Sway Bars Elephant Racing Adjustable Front and Rear Lower Control Arms Tarett Adjustable Toe Links; Front & Rear Numeric Shifter Atop Rennline Aluminum Shifter Riser w/ GT3 Shift Cables Guard LSD LN Engineering IMS Bearing Porsche Motorsport AOS installed and all associated hoses R/R X51 Headers Speedtech Carles X-Pipe Rebuilt all 4 brake calipers Performance Friction 08 Pads Sebro Slotted Rotors GT3 Brake Ducts

If you are planning on running those spring rates you really want a very sticky tire, a Pilot Sport will be useless with that setup, like you're in 100TW worst case, Hoosier medium case and a Pirelli slick best case. In all of those cases, you'll want to be a fair bit wider over stock. Those are the same rates I run on a set of JRZ 3 ways and I can't imagine trying to run them on public roads, maybe with a really, really good damper - neither my JRZ or your Motons would fit that category though. ETA - you don't have a GT3 master on your list - before you make any other parts changes to the brakes, you should add it.

I have Moton Motorsport 2-way with slightly higher spring rates and I do drive it on the street. It's absolutely horrible if there are the slightest bumps. On a track it's like heaven though. Ditto about the stock brakes being very, very good. I have had the rims hot enough to melt the center caps without a trace of brake fade. Pads and race fluid are essential. I use RBF 600 because it has the highest wet boiling point of any brake fluid.

OP - Tough troubles and I feel for you. Brake gremlins of any sort are almost as annoying as fuel injectors and vacuum leaks. I run the same track pads and rotors as you. I love the set up (with Motul 600) and have zero fade or chatter when chasing/being chased down by GT3�s, 4�s and C8�s. I use a stock 6GT3 alignment and stock master cylinder on 200 TW tires. So I�m one data point with the same general set up. My initial thought was pad bedding.