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YOUR RESEARCH'99 C2 Race Car Build Thread
Leading reported evidence
Install fvd baffle and oil pan
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I installed an FVD baffle and oil pan with fresh oil before starting and after a little rough idle it purred like a kitten.
Leading evidence: 'Install fvd baffle and oil pan' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Inspect car' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
It was a former OKC resident that had been gutted and had a nice cage installed locally before being relocated.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Bottom line though is that it was my responsibility to thoroughly inspect the car when I got it before taking it to the track.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'm going to be tearing down and inspecting the suspension from the sub-frame down and refreshing anything questionable before taking it back on the track.
Replace clutch switch, ignition, and relays, i finally realized
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Suggestion · Original poster
After replacing clutch switch, ignition, and relays, I finally realized that the immobilizer loop to the ignition was hanging loose.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'm going to be tearing down and inspecting the suspension from the sub-frame down and refreshing anything questionable before taking it back on the track.
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39 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T154520Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Time for another project thread. I picked this one up in Atlanta. It was a former OKC resident that had been gutted and had a nice cage installed locally before being relocated. They hadn't been able to start the car since they stripped it but they said the engine and transmission were in really good shape. For me there is a joy in taking a car and reshaping it or finishing it out for an intended purpose. And this car wants to race. So off we go.
It's pretty rough but has tons of potential.
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First order of business was to get it running. After replacing clutch switch, ignition, and relays, I finally realized that the immobilizer loop to the ignition was hanging loose. After that it started right up.
I installed an FVD baffle and oil pan with fresh oil before starting and after a little rough idle it purred like a kitten.
Next up, we've got to get this sucker on a diet. The cage is very well built but looks a little heavy. But there are plenty of places to shave weight to compensate. Stripping out all of the wires that don't make it stop go or turn is the first order of business. I start by tracing the wires from the front fuse box and relay panel and then flush cutting them at each end. Some liquid electrical tape when it's all over helps prevent unintentional shorts.
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Now THIS is the kind of thread I like to read! Check out my InstaGram at leftfordeadcars and you will see why!
Also, if you need parts for your car, let me know! I have lots of spare parts, OEM and aftermarket.
Subscribed!
HOLY CRAP! In a previous life I earned my keep by working as a railroad electrician including rewiring fire damaged diesel electric locomotives, but looking at the multicolored spaghetti in these pics are making me feel queasy as well.
SLAK: You are the man! Keep us in the loop. How's the turbo? Repaired?
There's a method to the wiring harness madness. It's equally annoying to me to have unplugged connectors everywhere, especially when one of them is supposed to be plugged in but you don't know which. So getting this cleaned up will be nice and it's nearly 20lbs of free weight savings.
The TT body is fixed but the wheel carriers on the front were missing the pucks on the underside of the tire rod connections. This means the tie rods didn't fit correctly and were just stuck in there and tightened down. That appears to be what caused it to break and send me for a ride. I'm going to be tearing down and inspecting the suspension from the sub-frame down and refreshing anything questionable before taking it back on the track.
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https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...track-car.html
I had a tie rod (OEM one) fail exactly the same way, only, fortunately, I was moving about 5 mph and hit a massive pothole. For what it's worth, the bushing on the wheel carrier on mine was missing too, figured the jar of the bolt snapping knocked it out. I found the end of the tie rod lying at the curb but never found the bushing. I don't think it would be possible to install the tie rod with that bushing not there. There is nothing to tighten against, as the taper on the tie rod end fits into the taper in the bushing and that is what you tighten against.
It actually will tighten down but it's awkward. No way to do it without knowing there is an issue though. Both the side that broke and the side that didn't were missing the puck. I believe if you use the wrong ball joint tool to extract the tie rod that this is the result.
Luckily, this is the same puck all the way down to the 986. And I can get 986 wheel carriers a heck of a lot cheaper 996Cup carriers.
Machine shop fixed the first one without issue using one of my spare C2/986 wheel carriers.
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Lol! At your convenience. This guy is at least 6 weeks out. And that's assuming that I really do have more time now that the kids are headed back to school and their summer tennis season is over.
I'm actually needing two. Ideally in addition to the one Blue Chip has so that I can still razz him for "owing me." Although in the totality of things that may not be entirely true.
I wonder if any of the aftermarket manufacturers have come up with a replacement bushing. That seems like an easy thing to machine, and if Porsche doesn't offer a replacement, there may be a market for them. A pair of bushings has to be cheaper than a pair of uprights. Rennline, for example, seems like someone who could easily make something like this.
I have. Bottom line though is that it was my responsibility to thoroughly inspect the car when I got it before taking it to the track. If I had pulled the tie rods to inspect them I would have know instantly that something wasn't right.
It sucks, but yes it is ultimately upon you to inspect everything before heading to the track.
Because it is YOUR life on the line...along with others near you.
If the PO did it and didn't know any better, then that's one thing.
If he paid to have it done, and just lucked out that it held for him, that's another thing.
He needs to know if he paid to have it done so he knows not to take another car to them.
If he did it, he needs to know that his work didn't hold and he needs to be more thorough next time.
I'm surprised, and glad, that it didn't cause more damage to your car!
Thanks for sharing!!
We made a little more progress today. Got most of the big stuff done on the wire stripping. Now just chasing down odds and ends connectors to trace and clip. The following 4 pics are 90% of what you need to do this at home.
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The cool thing is now that the immobilizer is stripped down, I can move it under the dash(where the factory should have installed it) just by relocating the ground wire.
WAIT...you're going to leave all those wire stubs in place!! Think of the added weight MAN! Oh the Humanity!!
You do great diligence on these things. It is admirable and impressive.
It's actually very quick and easy to de pin those connectors.
I personally wouldn't want those stubs live even coated with LET.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../025682sch01a/