changing spark plugs... 5 out of 6 ain't bad

'99 C2 aero seems to have a little misfire at 1800 rpm. After a brief "how to" you-tube video I ordered my plugs/coilpacks and good humor and then went to work yesterday. The tool list is as follows: latex gloves, mechanics gloves, 6 bandaids, 40 torx bit wrench, 5/8 spark plug socket + swivel and extensions, jack stands, neck pillow, hat, wine. Time range: 2 hours <--> never. I started on cyld #1, as this looked the hardest. I mean, really hard. Near impossible as the exhaust hopelessly interferes. First you'll realize that you have to throw out the mechanics gloves as you need your dexterity. Then you'll throw out the latex gloves as you need that 1mm extra clearance. Don't even think about using a 3/8 drive socket wrench as it won't fit. Also, the standard torx bit sets are too long to fit on even a 1/4" drive. I eventually hobbled together a 1/4 drive flex low provile ratchet handle with a 1/4" socket and then ground down/shortened a 40 torx bit insert that was meant to be used as a screw driver tip... 1 cut + 1 scrape later and the coil pack slid out! Next, you must hobble together a 5/8 spark plug socket with a flex and set of extensions that you can assemble as you insert into the hole. Getting the old plug out is no problem. However, getting the new plug unhooked for your socket is. It's now that you realize you'll need to remove the spark plug socket rubber liner as it holds onto the plug tightly; more tightly than the joints on your extensions... and they pull apart leaving half of them in the hole. This is where the hat and the neck pillow come in. As 45+ mins comes and passes... and your neck begins to strain, you must resist the urge to rest it on the suspension links... bandaid #3 on the top of the head. After more than an hour I went to the house, ran a hot bath, washed the blood out of my hair... and opened a nice burgundy; happy in knowing that I was 1/6 done. It only took about an hour to get another 4 swapped out... bandaids 4, 5 and 6. But, that rearward right plug (cyld #2) is going to have to wait... forever.... as 5 out of 6 ain't bad. Next time you are at the dealer, you need to tip your mechanic... the poor bastard

I paid my indy an hour to install coil packs from Pelican while something else was being fixed - don't remember what. I felt lazy about it at the time, but after reading this, seems like I came out ahead.

Wow... It sounds like a "quick little job" turned into a real project. The moral of this story is to: 1) research before the job (there are many ways to make this job easier/less bloody - for instance removing the mufflers... 2) You can never have enough tools when working on these cars. I'm always amazed how many tools I've got lying on my shop floor around the car when I'm done with a "quick little job" ! The good part is that you got it done and saved yourself some $

I changed my plugs, 2 coil packs (the hard ones to reach) and spark plug tubes (I got 4/6 changed) earlier this year. It is a complete b***h to do - unless you pull off the bumper and remove the mufflers. This only took about 20 minutes (my first time) but it made the job much easier. Still very awkward and tight but with different extensions and swivels its doable. My issue was the spark plug tubes. They didnt need replacing I just thought since im in here I might as well. I'd say it took me 4 hrs. I think I could do plugs again in 2 hours. It sounds like you left the mufflers in place?

Good job! But you will forever be thinking of the #2 plug. One major suggestion, the old coil packs used the inset female torx bolt. The new coil packs are slightly larger and use a very easy new style bolt that really simplifies the whole operation. Instead of blindly trying to loosen and tighten the inset female torx fasteners, on the new coil packs you can use a normal wrench and snug them up. Super simple. I'll try to find my picture.

Yeah this job is definitely a time-consuming challenge, but doable without removing mufflers or anything else. Taking the rear wheels off makes for more room to maneuver. I was able to do it with just a standard socket set with 3" and 6" extensions, but it required some very fine motor skills. I seem to recall that my 2001 has hex bolts holding the coils in place, not Torx; so it was an easy application of a ratcheting box wrench to get those out.

The coil packs and plugs are a much straighter shot if you remove the mufflers. I kind of cheated and did them while the engine was out of the car, but having the mufflers out of the way allows you a straight shot at everything through cutouts in the muffler brackets. It also simplifies the work of replacing the spark plug tubes and o-rings.

There is no sense to try this without removing the mufflers. It's not impossible but why look for trouble? Removing the bumper is not necessary. In any case, it's more challenging than you would think. I could probably do it in a couple of hours now, but it took me many times longer the first time.

Yeah, I've got a Fabspeed system sitting/waiting to install. Just waiting for the right time to tackle the almost 20 years of rusted bolts... esp. worried about the header install. Break a bolt off in the head and then real trouble. ...going to have to buy more wine for this project! BTW, why didn't they put the mufflers in the rear like they did with the TT?

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I'm always of the mindset of taking off as little as possible. Yes, the job is easier IF the exhaust comes off easily, but then you run the risk of damaging all the clamps, bolts, nuts, etc. which all have years of rust, and making an even bigger job for yourself. If you have to replace those parts, or spend hours extracting rusty fasteners the cost of the job increases in both dollars and time. If you don't touch it, you can't break it!

Agreed, 1st timers expect to spend more than the couple of hours you see being thrown around. Those that did it with the mufflers in place, that is some skill. Even with the mufflers out , bank 4 was an immense pain to remove and install. Particularly with disconnecting and reconnecting the coil. The male torx screws would have helped tremendously. It may been worth it to get new coils for that alone. Even if I don't, I'll probably look for screws with male heads and swap them out - at least for bank 4. For removing the bolts, I use a regular allen wrench to loosen as my ratchet allen + handle was not low profile enough...then I used a long screw driver through the exhaust mount connected to the allen wrench head to do most of the unscrewing. The permutation of tools I use on the 996 is ridiculous compared to other vehicles. My neighbors are probably tired of hearing me yell WTF. Bank 1 was easier than expected. Given the plugs go in horizontal, I find you don't really need the rubber spark plug holder. I used a non rubber version and attached a u-joint and short extension (3" ish) without the ratchet handle. I just twisted by hand until it was reasonable seated, then I clicked on the handle to finish off. Some tips for the muffler removal. You don't need to remove the bumper, there is enough clearance to get your hand in with a normal ratchet (figure 9). Also, on figure 8, the clamps are actually holding a joining sleeve that connects the muffler to the cat...having a rubber mallet to tap the sleeve out of the way is helpful. Having a floor jack holding up the mufflers is also helpful when disconnecting/reconnecting. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

I found I could get to all of them without removing anything by dropping the engine down on the mounts. Not "easy easy", but not too bad.

I replaced plugs and coils the first weekend I bought my car and wound up removing the rear bumper and exhaust, only added 30min to the disassembly proceed and makes this job cake.

one thing I would recommend is to get one of those Magnetic Spark plug socket... No more rubber washer gets left on the spark plug or leaving the socket in the tube. I can't believe I didn't get it years ago. Would have save me so much headache and time from my previous cars.

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Oh, why didn't I think of that. Smart.

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I'm having trouble picturing what that gains you, since the exhaust is rigidly attached to the engine, and is the main thing in the way. Where to you pick up extra space by lowering the engine?

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I tend to stick with this ideology for a lot of repairs. It's easy to watch a DIY video and be like, oh that's cake, then next thing you know, running in and out for tools, how to squeeze hand/swivels into tight spots, can't get that one son of a bitch bolt broke loose, etc. It's fun once you do it the first time, because any time after that feels like a fly through.

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It was a while ago, but I got them all out without touching the exhaust or bumper (in the vain hope that the death tick was just a loose plug!!). My car is having the engine rebuilt at the moment, so not here, but I will look in the garage to see if I can find the tools I used. It definitely helped me.

I did coils and plugs on my 2003 C4S in a couple hours without removing the bumper or anything. Just basic shop tools nothing too fancy. No offense but if you can�t change the coils and plugs with basic tools your not qualified to work on your car.

Ive done it once with bumper and mufflers on and once with bumper on and mufflers off. Half the time with mufflers off (Thank you Fister) but still not a technical job. Patients and the right tools.

"I did coils and plugs on my 2003 C4S in a couple hours without removing the bumper or anything. Just basic shop tools nothing too fancy. No offense but if you can’t change the coils and plugs with basic tools your not qualified to work on your car." please give me your e-mail address so that I can send you hate messages.... likely referencing the "size of your hands"... (a little presidential kidding of course... no actual hate involved!)

To be fair, I also thought you were getting pretty fancy there with your pillow, hot bath, and Burgundy (probably a fancy pants Grand Cru no less).

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Haha sorry dude, I just don�t see all the fuss.

Here are some maintenance I items have have done myself, all of which were easier than changing coils and plugs if you don't remove the wheels, bumper, and mufflers. - Alternator - Starter - Water pump - Oil filler tube - Thermostat - ATF fluid and filter on a 2002 Tip (there is a reason the dealer charges $800 for this job) - Brakes - Rear differential fluid - Coolant flush and fill - Brake fluid flush and fill

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- Alternator - couldn't get it off (that one long bolt) even with the engine out - but I didn't have to, so no big deal...didn't waste my time. - Starter - removed it very easily with the engine out - after putting everything back together I realized I had forgotten to connect the main cable - quite a pain even with the engine out, but all of the intake apparatus in place...it's very tight in there. - Water pump - did it with engine out... - Oil filler tube - no need, but it would be tough - remove intake plenum (at least center section - Thermostat - easy - ATF fluid and filter on a 2002 Tip (there is a reason the dealer charges $800 for this job) - did it with the engine out...20 min to drain, 10 min to refill... The rest is pretty much cake if you've got jack stands and a creeper... - Brakes - Rear differential fluid - Coolant flush and fill - Brake fluid flush and fill[/QUOTE]