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YOUR RESEARCHTo Buy QuickJacks or Not
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whole package
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I have the 7000TL set with the Extra bits for trucks / SUV's....It was the whole package...
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Install (but not including the trolly jack, an addition $1100)
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Plus, I found my HALO 9000lb lift for $4150, installed (but not including the trolly jack, an addition $1100).
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They just need to be swapped sides for the 911's in the pics.
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I�d love some thoughts on my thinking. I�m currently trying to weigh the expense of buying Quick Jacks so that I can do an upcoming brake replacement as well as other repairs down the road. I already do the oil change myself without really needing to lift the car in the air but this would make it easier.
I also need to replace the oil pressure sensor which will require getting under the car.
I guess my question to you folks is, are the short term expense differences of doing this work myself instead of my shop, worth the $2k outlay for the quickjacks.
thanks!
Contemplated about this for a while myself as well, eventually bought them, no regrets at all. Also keep in mind that they're 2k, but if you ever want to get rid of them, you get almost the same in return (Which says something about their usefulness), so the actual money 'lost' is very little.
If you have the space and room for a proper ramp (like one you can drive over/on and lift the car in the air) do that. But if you don't... The quickjacks are great and very convenient. Saves a lot of time.
I also enjoy their versatility, e.g. if the weather outside is nice I can just work on the car outside, and if it sucks ill stay in the garage.
I probably described it a bit clumsy due to my English; but I have these ramps in one of my garages:
https://www.hbm-machines.com/nl/p/we...230-volt-grijs
I prefer them over the quickjacks, because you just park the car on top, and whenever you feel like lifting the car, it's just a matter of putting a few rubber blocks between the sills. The quickjacks do require some setting up and positioning. Minor, but hey, I'm lazy.
Myself, I prefer the HF 6000 Lbs. scissors lift, been using one now for 8 years and park one of the cars over it when not in use. cheaper than both those lift and I can work on the cars standing up and not have to stoop down low to work on the cars.
CENTRAL HYDRAULICS 6000 Lb. Capacity Scissor Lift for $1499.99 � Harbor Freight Coupons
I've had my set of Quick Jacks for almost 10 years now...they have paid for themselves many many times over. There are other solutions out there and it looks like some were recommending two posts (which is ideal if you have the space). However, considering the ease of use, portability and ease of storage I honestly can't think of a better solution for the DIY garage. Almost zero maintenance and they clear even some of the lowest cars I've ever worked on.
Of course your garage situation is going to dictate what you use, but the great thing about the Quick Jack is that it literally can be used anywhere.
Buy Once....Cry Once!!!
I weighed it myself a couple years ago... Just buy the bigger set so you can lift other stuff.
Done several services on all our vehicles so far. I just bought and never looked back. Just DON'T do what I did the first time and forget to put the "BIG STICKER" side Toward the Engine side of whatever vehicle you're lifting!!!!
The leverage works for the engine weight side when they're opposite of how you see my 911 in the thumbnail.
You Tube
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Just did all 6 fluids on my S2K aswell with the QJ's.... That Scissor Lift thing would be difficult to use for needing to get under the MIDDLE of the car.
QJ's take a little to get "set" up just right before lifting but once up, you have access to everything you may need on any car.
I also use Jackstands and Extra safety BTW.... I never trust anything 100%
You Tube
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I’ll echo everyone’s thought. QJ are great. Plus, I like to go to track days and I can toss my QJ in the back of a pickup truck, or in a tow trailer to make it easy to work trackside. Total win, and much safer than most other options.
Bought my Quick Jacks years ago and never looked back in fact I bought them when an Indy shop labor hour was around $100 not the current range of $200 an hour so they keep saving me money with each use. They fit all models of Porsches and I do pretty much do everything on them except engine or gearbox removal.
Rich
I'm also seriously considering a QJ for my garage. But just to be clear about the orientation of the jack itself for a 911. You're saying that hydraulic shaft (with the QuickJack logo) base, should be on the same side as the engine.
Well, I don't know how old you are, but being an older guy that loves working on all my stuff, this was the best purchase I've made. It also lifts my F150. Up to 8000 pounds.
My 46 inch helper
Quick question...you recommend buying a larger quick lift in order to be able to use it on larger/heavier vehicles. I like this idea. However, the "tire spread" on the 911 is only about 62 inches. Which model quick lift are you using in your video?
I much appreciate any replies.
See in the pics many many cars on QJ are oriented in the wrong direction for rear engine cars.
The
QJ end with the hoses need to face/hoses come out of the front end of the 911
. If not used like that the 911 will be on the verge of teeter-tottering on the edge, not good, dangerous. When QJ is used in the correct orientation the 911 is rock solid on the lift. And once you have 'your QJ set-up' correctly in your garage you'll never have to think about this again...
Once lifted, Always go to the rear and then the front,, and carefully/gently at first, push down on the rear of car , see how sturdy the car is on the lift. If it teeters down you got orientation wrong. No doubt after that you'll see how the 911 needs to be oriented on the QJ for safety. Its not hard to do.
If you must use the incorrect orientation of the QJ for our a$$ heavy 911 (don't know why anyone would),
at least use another jack under the heavy end
before doing any work. With the correct QJ orientation on 911 no need at all for any extra jack/support.
QJ works very well, rock solid when oriented correctly. easy to use, great tool for the home garage, or perfect and portable enough to be a great asset at the track...
jmho
Hate to mention this but I did it too the 1st time I lifted the 911.... Every single pic you posted shows each vehicle being lifted "dangerously".
The Big Sticker side NEEDS to be towards the ENGINE of which ever vehicle you're lifting. They way you have it, that engine weight could easily pivot and tip the car over towards the engine weight.
You want the engine weight / pivot point coming up and Never over / past the pivot point on the ground. They just need to be swapped sides for the 911's in the pics. Mini also...
EDIT: I replied before seeing others responded to my 1st post about the orientation.
YES...They is VERY important.. When I lifted my 911 the first time, it was literally "TEETERING" on my pivot point further under and toward the front of the car. When I swapped around, it was WAY MORE STABLE!!!
Here's me llfting my 2SS 1LE, which I have to SWAP around the QJ's to lift correctly being that it's Front engine.
GO TO the 2:00 mark and I'll explain exactly what I'm talking about and what happened when I first got them with my 911.
You Tube
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Thanks guys. Now the followup stupid question: which model should I get? I know some folks have mentioned the 6000TL but looking on their site they have a bunch of new TLX and SLX models. As well as a 3500lb capacity one.
I have the 7000TL set with the Extra bits for trucks / SUV's....It was the whole package... The ONLY thing I don't have, which I need for the wife's Cayenne S is the "Extender Trays".
with the 7000TL set I can lift everything in my signature.
911
Boxster
Civic Si
S2000
Camaro
and have lifted her Cayenne with them but had to turn them perpendicular to the car and raise it from Left to Right (so to speak). This is why I need to extended trays.
The 8000TL set should do a great job but even be more robust. I wish I had them because I could "Possibly" lift my MegaCab but that would be risky since It's a Diesel and weigh's approx. 8500 lbs. running weight.
You need to measure the LIFT POINTS on the vehicles you have and see what "Spread" they have. QuickJack has a Chart on their site and vids about it. or they used to. That should give you and idea of what you need.
I bought the 7000TL. It is "tight" fit on C4S, but works just fine. I replaced the front suspension, brakes, & axles. I also used the QJ to install new rear diff on Toy 4Runner. The 7000 can lift a 1/2 ton truck also. I may have the 7000 for sale soon, maybe moving.
And yeah, the QJ instructions explain how to position front/back and has a booklet of lifting points for a lot of cars & years. Just pay attention to it. Labor rates around here are $165-$225/hour. A few jobs and the QJ pays for your own labor. JMO
YMMV
I would say a lot of people love them, and a lot of people don't use them often and they are pretty heavy to move around, especially if you are in your later years. I now have a maxjax and don't want to go back to working on the ground. Now I want a full size lift, but don't want to make that commitment in my shop.
My neighbor bought some quickjacks about 3 or 4 years ago, only has used them five or so times, and he is now 70 with a bad shoulder and it's too much for him to move them into place.
I'll agree ^^ since I'm older (54 and not light) with lots of old injuries / surgeries and just had a knee replacement 2 weeks ago...
Getting on the ground to setup before lifting and then doing the work is a chore at times. But I still do it for basic stuff.
The older I get though, the more likely I'll be to sell and just have someone do the work. lol
Not thw primary topic, but the oil pressure sender is on top of the engine. All you need is a crows foot, I had to grind one thin enough. Takes 10 min.
Don�t mean to hijack the response. There�s a thread on here about the oil pressure sending replacement DIY. Undo the wire from the top. Take off the rear wheel and remove the pressure sender from the bottom using crows foot and extensions. It was an easy 15 min job.
Also, have no regret getting my 7000SLXs. Found a good deal on Facebook marketplace. Lifts everything in my garage. It�s a little clunky to position and set up. I still use regular jacks for quick stuff. If I�m doing anything major under the car, QJs make the work a breeze.
Same here too, which is why I decided to get a 4 post. Thought about all the other options, pro's and con's of each and just decided that, with the exception of an engine drop, I can do everything else I need on a 4 post and be more comfortable doing it. With a sliding trolly jack, the maintenance options are many. Plus, I found my HALO 9000lb lift for $4150, installed (but not including the trolly jack, an addition $1100).
And before everyone goes crazy about it being a Chinese made lift, news flash, they're all made in China, now including the "grail" of 4 posts, Bendpak. Plus the HALO has 14 lift positions, which comes in handy when trying to go max height for parking. Not plugging HALO, just very satisfied with my purchase.
So you still have to jack the car up with the trolly jack and put it on jack stands? I can see this being useful if your primary use is storage, but it just adds all the same steps to getting car off the ground as jack and jack stands. only higher, but now more restrictive. What's your process for a job that entails removing the wheels?
Use the bridge jack, lock it in to the desired height and do whatever it is you need to do. Release the lock (like on the 4 post itself) and lower when ready.
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