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YOUR RESEARCH4.0 Getting new coolant tank and injectors
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Replace coolant tank and injectors without removing the engine
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Not entirely sure what the exact procedure is but the dealership replaced both my coolant tank and injectors without removing the engine.
Leading evidence: 'Replace coolant tank and injectors without removing the engine' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check bleeder valve' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I drained the coolant at the bottom of the engine and made sure I replaced the same amount when done.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Every time I go out in the garage to work on it, i change my mind once I set eyes on the sled beside it.
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I used a 1/4" drive socket set with a 4" wobble extension and a universal joint to R&R the bracket.
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A couple of months ago I was sweeping around the car and the broom got wet....low and behold there's a small puddle of coolant under my car where the reservoir is. I knew I should of replaced it when I had that engine out, it was looking pretty yellow and brittle. another lesson learned
Same with Injectors. While I took care of the vacuum leaks, I still don't feel great running the old injectors so I got new ones that will be going in over the winter.
Found these how-to's
Coolant tank:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
Injectors:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
Both require the motor to be dropped so figure I'll do both at the same time.
Any tips or tricks you guys can share that aren't included in the articles?
What year is your car? I think I remember something about this job being easier on a pre-2002 car. It was basically impossible on my 2004 even with the engine dropped as far as possible in the car.
If you have a problem getting the loosened, flopping around tank out remove the top mounting bracket from the inner fender.
Two screws with 10mm heads. They are tough to get to. I used a 1/4" drive socket set with a 4" wobble extension and a universal joint to R&R the bracket.
Thanks for posting this. I'm going to be doing this soon. Do you have to raise the car to get enough room to drop the engine? I remember my jack being a tight squeeze underneath.
EDIT: Just read it. Are you going to do a complete coolant flush or just top it off per the Pelican site? What are people's thoughts?
Not entirely sure what the exact procedure is but the dealership replaced both my coolant tank and injectors without removing the engine. So guessing with the right procedure it's possible.
Maybe something is different on a Cab but I could not get the tank to clear the injector rail even with the plug removed as suggested by the tips I had read. If you could get the bracket off all would get better but I could not do that either. I ended up cutting back the rearmost rail on the plastic bracket that the tank slides on to so I could twist it out.
No doubt there is a trick to this that I missed but it was a real struggle for me.
yeah, I'm not looking forward to it.
Every time I go out in the garage to work on it, i change my mind once I set eyes on the sled beside it.
"Hmmm...4 hours working on this thing, or go braap for 100km's or so."
I dont think too too hard about it most times. haha
Spring is coming fast though, and once the winter toys are stored, i'll be itching to get it out.
I've also got a cab, I'm likely going to tackle it this weekend. Can you elaborate on the cutting back part? Did you literally remove a piece of the rail?
Full disclosure: I actually broke a piece of the rail in the process of forcing the old tank out. I bought a new attaching bracket and did actually trim out the first segment of the rail on the side towards the rear of the car. Made re-installation possible without forcing something that might damage my new tank. I simply could not create enough room between the end of the fuel injection header and the tank to get the tank out far enough to clear the bracket. Wish I had taken some photos to illustrate this issue.
Good luck with your project and I hope it goes smoothly for you. I drained the coolant at the bottom of the engine and made sure I replaced the same amount when done. Don't forget to use the latest 04 marked cap.
Thanks. I'm not great at this stuff at all, but I'll attempt it to save several hundred. I cannot believe how much variation in approach there is.
I feel like I should replace the coolant. But I think I'll start with the baster method and the full flush will depend on how frustrated I am at refill time. I don't have a vacuum, so I'd have to burp it at an angle.
The baster technique takes forever. I just drained the engine coolant (not the whole system) and made sure I replaced it with the same amount I removed. No burping, no issues. Hope yours go as smoothly with respect to the coolant.
So....got started, removed the air pump, 1st thing I notice is the overflow tube from the coolant tank.
Hmmm...never noticed that before so I pored water down the tube and sure enough it falls out right where the coolant puddle was.
Now, the tank cap never sealed. I know this because there was always dried white coolant around it after a good run and letting it sit over night. Also noticed the rear hose wasnt clamped on properly and could have been a source of a leak. I fixed that and will buy a new coolant tank cap. The actual tank looks pretty new, I thought it was yellow and dry but it doesn't look too bad. I went and checked the ex owners history and he had the coolant reservoir done in 2011. I'm not all that convinced the tank was my source of the leak. i think while pressure built up, the coolant was leaking pass the unsealed cap and it leaked out the overflow. Would explain the minute amount of coolant I see on the floor. Once I dried it up the 1st time I noticed it, no new stuff appeared
Another thing is the bleeder cap on the coolant reservoir. that thing seems to be stuck open. should that not close and stay closed?
I may drive it as is for now and see what happens.
[EDIT: Better info below] I'm with you, I'd rather address the know issues before you swap it and properly burp or bleed the system. The original coolant tanks are going 10+ years, yours should be fine.
If you really have to know, you could probably use a borescope to give the tank a once over.
Remember that the bleeder valve is up/open when the coolant is hot, and down/closes when it cools down. Not sure when you are checking the bleeder valve. If it is still in the up position when the engine is stone cold, spray it with some WD-40 and give it a light tap. Otherwise, if it is completely stuck in the up position, I would ignore it until you get a chance to replace the coolant tank and bleeder valve.
so that valve goes up regardless of where you position the square bracket? I know to keep it open, you position the square metal bracket in the up position and that will hold the bleeder vent open. Are you saying that remains open while the engine is hot regardless of where that bracket is?
That is correct because that valve is pressure activated regardless of the position of that square bracket (stem is pushed up when hot and down when cold). The bracket is used to FORCE it at the open position even when cold.
How did you move it to the right? Did you just push the jack over before the engine rested on the rear suspension cross bar? This is such an obvious solution I feel so dumb.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
