Door speaker sub is 2 ohm?

So I was changing out all speakers in 2000 c4 non bose system. Dash and rear speakers are 4 ohm. I went to change the door speakers upon removal, saw that they are 2ohm. So now the new 5-1/4 speakers (4 ohm) sounds like crap. Is there a way to change this with the amplifier? Or am I having to replace the amp all together? Thanks

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I think you'd be better off running a new amp, that will give you the best results. I don't think the amp is capable of changing any ohm settings but that's a guess.

You can't change the impedance of a speaker. It is a function of how it is made If you look at amp specs, the power output increases as impedance decreases, however it is no louder with a lower impedance speaker even though the amp puts out more power

The simplest way to impedance match is with a 4 ohm in, 2 ohm out transformer. They aren't easy to find, but they are out there if you google-foo. This will solve the impedance problem, but you have to be careful about core saturation. If you get too small transformer, you can put too much power in the transformer and overload it(core saturation). This is low cost, low tech. Better is to replace the amp with a unit that has a 4 ohm output section to match the speakers.

Thanks guys. Now time for an multi channel amp and now sub since I'm upgrading again.

The main reason that the speakers "sound like crap" is because the door speakers are "subs" (ie: they're crossed over and should only be reproducing low end). Purring coax's in there is a bad idea, as the tweeters will give you that "poop" sound...

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dporto is right. The Porsche door enclosures are bass reflex and not designed for full range output and that's the beauty of the Porsche 10 speaker/6 channel system. The mids and highs are handled by the front and rear speakers. The bass is handled by the door bass reflex enclosures. Also, as a general rule of thumb you want to match the impedance of the amp's output with the impedance of the speakers. However, if your amp with handle different loads, then you should be fine but the fact is that most car systems are set for 4 ohms loads at the speaker level. Mixing impedance from the amp to the crossovers, to the speakers can get you into a world of hurt is not matched properly.

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That is far too complicated and not needed. An amp that can handle a 2 ohm load and also handle a 4 ohm load. With some amps, the other way might be a problem. A transformer is a complete waste of $, effort and space in this application As others have pointed out, the door speakers are subs and driven from the amp as low frequency only

Here is a write-up for replacing the door speakers with new 5.25" subs: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...-speakers.html

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Yes, I understand that soldering 4 wires, and mounting a small metal tab can be -- challenging for some. It is a solution, but not one that I recommended. As for what the amp can handle, you have it backward. an audio amp which is designed to handle n watts into a 4 ohm load will theoretically be able to produce way over n watts into 2 ohm(it's a log, and I don't want to mess with the math) load. However, for almost all retail analog power applications the amp will start clipping the signal anywhere near modest volume because once again, the audio amp amplifies as a log of the sine of the waveform. And, guess what - the 'sounds like crap' effect the OP mentioned. running a 4 ohm impedance output amp into an 8 ohm load will not clip, as the impedance of the sink(speaker coil) is greater than the impedance of the design of the source(amp). Thus, the ability of the same amp to produce n watts across an 8 ohm load will be -- unlikely. No clipping, but less volume of course. Further, it's not really the power that's the only problem, but the mis-matched impedance of the output stage of the amp, and the speaker will produce an undesirable slight but noticeable ringing at the resonant frequency of the coil of the speaker. Usually depending on the size and winding of the speaker, it won't be an issue, but when the frequency is outside the range of hearing(speaker coil is very high inductance and very low capacitance), we can get the mutilplexed harmonics of the resonance freq at reduced levels which will be in the audio range of hearing(a design flaw of all speakers, but more of an issue when impedance is mis-matched). Did you want to discuss audio technology more?

I'd love to. I did pro audio for more that 15 years That's exactly what I was saying, output power at 2 ohms will be higher than at 4 ohms. I too don't want to mess with the math. More power at a lower impedance does not equate to more volume Modern transistor based amplifiers generally do not have transformer outputs and are fine with loads at least 4-16 ohm and most 2-16 ohm so there really should not be a mismatch. Having an amp that can handle a 2 ohm load should not have any issues with a 4 ohm load. In any case, we are talking about a car stereo, not a $50k audiophile home theater system. Most people can't really hear minute differences, perception becomes reality. Also as we age, our hearing gets progressively worse. When I was in my 20's, I could easily hear 18K and kind of hear 20k. No nearing 60, 10k would be a stretch. Enough technical crap, what oil should I use?

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Joey Ribbs DeeTee40 sold by Jack Rabies exclusively at Forsche Motorsports in Florida. Ask for Martin.

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Call me when you get your EE degree. If that's "exactly what you were saying" then it's backwards to what you meant. But - no worries, we're all experts behind a keyboard. I recommend some Kmart/target straight 30W. Pour it right in the CD changer cart slot next to the spare in the frunk.

2 or 4 wont make any difference in your system. Why it sounds bad is for you to experiment with. Wrong speaker selection is the problem , so put the old one back in

I actually prefer Kirkland Extra Virgin Olive oil, although I have heard good thing about their Avocado oil

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I heard they made some great golf ***** too! Doc : It sounds like you might know what you're talking about, but the presentation makes you sound like an *ss ! You should tone it down a bit...

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Agreed. When quoted, and then arguments from a Best Buy stereo salesman are used to refute what I said and are exactly wrong, it kinda gets me irritated. I'll try to be more humble. So, here's the reason that low impedance speakers are a problem. As discrete amplifiers are designed, ways of making the same wattage output, with fewer gain stages becomes useful. Fewer transistor junctions for the discrete chip means lower cost. It used to be that an amp would have a primary gain stage for the high impedance audio source, like a CD player, followed by either a one or two stage push-pull pair, and then hopefully, an emitter follower pair with negative gain, but excellent low impedance characteristics due to the pull up resistor value to B+(or the pull down in a PNP type junction). If one can eliminate the negative gain stage of the emitter follower, and just use the output of the second stage(or in an elegant but more costly Darlington pair) and limit the current gain of the output to the load, then money is saved, and more power is produced, at the cost of impedance match concern. When a low impedance device is connected to the output stage of one of these types of cheap retail amps, something interesting happens to the substrate on which the junction(s) are laid. Another cost saving approach is to put all the matching and amplifying components on one substrate which becomes a 'discrete' device or ASIC(appl specific integrated circuit). It has a power supply lead, a ground lead, and input lead(s) and output leads with a few biasing signals along the way. Sadly, this great packaging method has the downside of being highly affected by heat. The ability of a PN junction to correctly amplify a signal is quite seriously affected by heat. And - what causes more heat in the source you ask? Why, that would be a very low impedance sink(speaker coil). So, as the substrate, with all its myriad circuitry works harder, the output junction of the power amp(or Darlington pair combined collectors) starts to break down slightly and the amp starts to clip the waveform. Viola - distortion or 'sounds like crap'. There is a natural affect at work in there, because since a hot substrate junction raises its internal resistance, it will normally self-correct to some degree. However, if the feedback stages used to control this change in heat are not sufficient, eventually the substrate will go into thermal runaway, and the PN junction will open up and then one or more of the stages is gone. Buy a new amp. Do yourselves a favor, please match the impedance of the speaker to the amp. (note; I said please). [edited to correct Darlington pair, which have combined collectors not emitters. Oops]

Geeze Louise Doc First off, I worked with some of the largest bands in the world and did some of the largest concert tours in 70's and 80's. Never worked at Best Buy While you like to spew out a lot of technical info that frankly is meaningless to most people on this forum, the bottom line is a 4 ohm speaker will work fine with a car amp that had a 2 ohm speaker attached and as I said, most car amps have a range at least from 2-4 ohms, so I guess that would qualify as a matching impedance Now back to what the best oil to use is.........

I'm bowing to Jay and Doc on this one. I'm just a son of an engineer.

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Not to me, Doc's the one with the fancy schmancy degrees and the fancy talk. I'm just a dumb old roadie

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Wow, maybe we crossed paths. I worked as an 'asst sound engineer' for A&M records in the early 80s in LA while I was attending UCLA. BTW, 'asst sound engineer' is code for coffee/booze/cigs getter, guitar tuner, mic monkey, and all around mr fixit. I kept my job because I could hook up the talent with decent ahem - product from the heads around the campus. Debbie Harry was the absolute worst. I still have memories of cleaning vomit and broken instruments until 3am. As for the 2 ohm debate, sure there are a couple amps from maybe Kicker or Jensen that are rated for 2 ohms, but decent stuff is all 4 ohm. Makes a difference for the reasons I gave. Physics doesn't lie.

Could be I worked for a large production company in LA for about 10 years, mid 70's to mod 80's. I typically was the house engineer or head electrician for most of the tours I did. I did a bunch of shows with Blondie, they were a lot of fun virtually all car amps are rated at 2 ohms. Check out the specs on crutchfield In my case, can't hear the difference anymore

Heh, if you were around Harry after the concert, you prolly got tossed on a few times like me. I did all studio work, mostly backing vocals for beer, cars, etc. She had a remarkable voice. Too hung up on school to do any road work. She got in a big fight with Bernie Taupin one night when he came down from up in the hills to pickup some rushes. I don't know what it was about, but jeez, they threw a lot of stuff around the green room. Her boyfriend had some kind of illness and was always at Cedar-Sinai for his liver, or something. Good times. Back then I was driving a green 1970 Fiat 850 coupe. It had yellow stripe down the length if you ever saw it, you'd remember.

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Naw, I avoided getting spewed on LOL. She did have a great voice. I often play "One Way or Another" when Axing. I had a 280z with plates PLUS3DB. Got the idea for the plates when I saw a car that had 00VU

A few comments: 1) It definitely sounds bad because you are using a coaxial speaker instead of a sub. 4 ohm versus 2 ohm will not cause sound quality issues, the 4 ohm will be a little quieter, but it is an easier load on the amp. If you put in a 4 ohm sub, you will likely need to crank up the bass to get the same bass volume as the 2 ohm sub, and even then it won't be perfect since the bass level is not the same as a pure volume level for the sub only. 2) The factory subwoofer is actually pretty good quality. The dash and rear speakers are crap, but the door subs are well-built speakers. In fact, I would recommend keeping them. I replaced the stock subs with Tang subs, which are more powerful and have deeper bass, but really it is overwhelming for the door enclosure and you have to do a lot of tweaking to get it to sound right, partially because it isn't match (it's closer to a true sub than the midbass stockers) and partially because the Tangs are 4 ohm (so they are quieter at the same volume level than the stock subs would be). I would keep the stock sub -- I think it works really well for what can be done in the door and putting in something "better" will overwhelm what that enclosure can support. It's better to use the stock subs as mid-bass and then add a dedicated sub. 3) I put in the Tangs because I didn't want to put a hole anywhere for a dedicated sub. But I would have left it stock if I had to do it again and then I would try to add an under-seat sub if it fits. I have no idea if these fit under a 996 seat, but I used this sub in a tight space in my basement feeding it with a 12-volt power supply and it puts out a lot of bass for something so shallow: https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RW1...woofer+10+inch

Heh, my plates were usually expired. part time night audio work, and full time student, I ate a lot of ramen/cheap beer. The absolutely worst group was Ozark Mountain Daredevils. They trashed the green room, then trashed most of the studio one night. I was new on the job, and Moss and Herb were really pissed the next day. Anyway, after graduation, I went to Sandy Eggo and got a job with Spectral Dynamics(Scientific Atlanta). Really, really good money. I learned a ton about vibration acoustics, amplifiers, S/N, small signal amplifying, etc. Most of the vibration work is around the same range as audio, so I picked up a lot of engineering on that spectrum. After that, I went out to La Jolla and worked for Gen Atomic and started fixing the control systems for nuke reactors. So, I kinda know my audio stuff. A lot has changed over the years, but the physics remains the same.

If y'all want to chat and debate audio, head over to AVSForum...that's the best site for this topic. There are amps that are stable down to 1/2-ohm and 1-ohm, let alone 2-ohm or 4-ohm. But not all amps are able to do so cleanly and reliably. Price points range from $79 to thousands. Not to beat a dead horse, but matching is important but I'd argue that making sure you find a quality amplifier is more important. Unlike cars that have a clearly defined 0-60 specification that rarely deviates by more than 10-15%, audio amplifier ratings and specs can deviate up to and beyond 100%, for power, distortion, ability to drive low impedence workloads, frequency response, etc. So I would talk to the experts in the industry about the specific models you are looking at and check here or on AVS to make sure it will work. Getting good sound quality in a car is tough, let alone a Porsche 911. Even if you get all good components, don't forget about the source material. Directly connecting a player instead of Bluetooth, and playing music from at least 256kbps or higher (iTunes, Spotify) matters a lot in terms of sound quality. I also find find that hard metal dome tweeters can sound harsh or bright in a car with all that glass, so I tend to look for silk done or ribbons. The subwoofer choice is another hard problem to solve in these cars. In general, you want the largest drivers in the largest cabinets you can find for the best bass. Very hard to do in a Porsche 911, save for a Targa perhaps, or giving up the rear seats.

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I echo Peter's thoughts on this one. I'm not a "boom 'n da back" kind of guy, but I love a nice clean powerful sound when in the mood and these two little 5.25 speakers are pretty impressive for their size. And yes, I decided to keep the HAES 2 ohm subs in the doors instead of replace them with something else. But with a clean amp, they'll blow you outta the car. But you're not going to get the same level of bass as heard from the ricers running 12 and 18 " drivers, but why would you want that? It will only lead to hearing damage and it's counter to what the whole 911 experience is about. Funny thing though... When I installed my Blaupunkt amp, I turn the radio to some of that jungle bass music my children like, and my wife came running out in the garage and yelled, "You're shaking the whole house!!!". That from two 5.24 sub enclosures!!! hahaha Oh, and doc... my Blaupunkt amp that I bought from Crutchfield is rated to a 2 ohm load.

The reason your new driver sounds like crap has nothing to do with the 4 or 2 ohm issue. The latter actually presents a more difficult to drive load than the former. Therefore, if your amp had no difficulty driving a 2 ohm load, it will have an even easier tiime powerring the 4 ohm. You have chosen a full range driver instead of a bass driver. The crossover network in the audio systyem has been configured for the sub woffer to only see low frequencies. In the case of your coaxial full range replacement, mid and high frequencies are being reproduced which is causing interference affects with the other speakers in the car. You need to get a woofer only driver as a replacement and it must be the same sensitivity it is replacing, otherwise you will have too little or too much output relative to the other speakers in the car.