Need a piwis3 test run

So i am trying to work through some issues with my immobilizer. When i lock the doors with the button or key i get a double beep. The locks do not try to lock in the door or any on of the aux doors like the center consol, fuel door or hood latch soleniod. I have yet to pull the seat and back pin the immobilizer plug but my thought is that it is not sending the lock signal. I am getting the generic code for the lock not reaching the limit. I did replace both door locks with my donor car locks and that did not fix it. All micro switches r working for the window drop and aux doors as i dont get a single beep warning and i have verifide continuity with a multimeter. All fuses and functions with the rest of the car r good. Again none of the locks r attempting to move to the coled position, therfore i feel its in the immobilizer or harness as the lock trigers r all tied together. So back to the test... I have been able to borrow a piwis3 but i have to ship it back on monday. I found a menu that allows u to triger the individual locks. When i do the door lock test i get no noise or accuator movement, when i stop the test i hear the accuators cycle through the "unlock". Its the same noise when i hit the key fob. Im assuming this means there is no 12v being sent but u have no baseline. When i try to triger the aux doors i get a "no signal detected" message in the box. Again it seems like the immobilizer is not sending the 12v and the signal.wire is not reporting back? So hoping to verify what is correct before u pull the computers and send them to ecudoctor

Hi Dejeeper, the alarm control message for lock limit not reached means that one of the doors or micro-switches did not move when commanded by the alarm control unit... These screenshots are from my PIWIS 2 but will be the same in PIWIS 3...go to Alarm control >>> Maintenance/Repirs>>>> Input signals >>>> then check all the inputs to see if they correspond to the actual status.....you can change status ( locked vs unlocked / closed vs open) to verify that they change states .. You can capture yours and post them if you want and Ill take a look at them...

BTW ...don't forget there is a 10A fuse on the alarm control unit itself........I can't remember what all doesn't work when it is blown , but check it to make sure it is good...

Here is the home screen i am dealing with. I cant find the simulation on this version. This is the diagnostic screen for me to pick from. Even though its set for english all the info it pulls is in german. I go into the 9x6_Alarmanlage to see the immobilizer stuff when its connected and there is no staus screen to pick.

along the top row where it says "overview" . scroll to the right and highlight "maintenance/repairs" .... then look at the bottom of that menu for "input signals"..

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cool, thx. Ill run out to the garage soon

Happy to help !! Hopefully when you hook it to the car in actual tests it will be in English not German...

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maybe....i have already spent a few hours with it hooked to the car. All the software is in english but everything it pulls from the car is in german. Google translate is my friend but german words can get real long

Found the log but its all in german. It kinda matches yours but im starting to translate now. My frunk is open and the doors r closed and unlocked(wont lock).

Something is not quite right with that Clone software ... When I change languages on mine it changes everything to the language I select.... Here is the same screen in Spanish..... It will be a bit more trouble to translate every value/description from German but is doable...

So i translated and its pretty much what u have with the correct readings. Mine has a few more items because its a mk2 set up. I cant try to lock the doors because the key has to be on. Where do i look now for a fault?

Now i am.translating the "actual values/input signal" section and the "drive links checks"

Open and close the doors, engine lid, frunk, glove box, make sure the status changes in the tester from open to closed Also make sure terminal 15, and 86S is present...and signal from airbog is not present

You can also go into>>> alarm control>>> drive links>>>>then activate "tank lock" and "secure doors" and "lock doors" You will activate with F8 and should get the message " activation successful"....for tank lock and door lock...and just an" OK" message for Secure doors...

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I checked as many as i could with the key in the igniton. I cant check the locks or the lock cylinders. All r working. Confirmed Termial 15 and 86s r present airbag is not. I need a pic of the items in the "drive link check" section. I think there is some lost im translation. I ran all the tests and wrote down notes on the results. I need someone to run the "door lock" test to see what happens. Its marked TuerenSichernlW48 (translation Door Lock) when u "continue" into the function and then "engauge" the function i get a light clicking noise from the interior of the car but nothing locks. When u turn off the function it cycles the door locks to open (even though they r unlocked still) Also the letters SID appear in the "results" window on the screen. Not sure what it means?

This is what i get when i try the tsnk lock. I get nothing from the car, no noise no locking of the tank door?

Here is the drive link menu for 996 GT3 in sim mode for "drive links" drive link menu 1 drive link menu 2 tank lock test results Secure door test results Door lock test results

If the tank lock is not working either the fuse is blown or the actuator is bad...

For door lock test all doors must be closed and frunk and engine lid closed

Maybe the tank lock actuator is shorting and wont allow the doors to lock.......unplug the tank lock

got the language issue fixed. Apperently i was in E (engineering) mode and u needed to be in V mode. Its much easier to navigate. Its really lookjng lkke the immobilizer has issies. It thinks its commanding the locks but its not and its showing no faults or events. Any ideas for tomor? Im done for tonight even though i have a mk2 harness i kept the mk1 frunk/rear deck levers. I did wire up the lock actuator for the levers. I did check continiety for the wiring on both of these actuators and they r good back to the immobilizer. When i was messing with the tank lock actuator i still couldnt get the car to lock when it was unpluggled. I need to see if i can pull the plug and test for 12v when i command it through the piwis. Not sure if i can get to it. Again there r no blown fuses in the footwell and the fuse on the immobilizer is good. I may just have to get the seat out and test the wire right at the immobilizer.

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Or the immobilizer is not outputing the 12v. I did figure that out when i got it to show in english. I could actually understand the instructional prompts. .

The immobilizer puts out the 12v positive and negative to the two wire actuators and just reverses polarity to activate them in different directions... If push come to shove, I would disconnect all actuators associated to the locks, and reconnect only one then retest function, if it functions them reconnect one at a time untill it stops functioning... I don't really think the Immo is bad, but could be wrong, but the testing is much less expensive than thinking the Immo is bad when it may not be...

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Agreed and probably the correct.way to do it. If its anything im bettjng its the tank actuator as i was fixing thjngs in that area when it started scewing up. I should probably just buy one of those $38 piwis and build a laptop so i can do it on my time.

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Definitely worth having. Because of the low price, I purchased a spare VAS 6154. I have my VM on my spare laptop�s C:, and I have a copy on an external drive. I can send the VAS 6154 & external drive to you if you need them, but the VAS arrives pretty quickly from China. You can at least copy the VM instead of downloading it.

I think im just gonna by a refurbed laptop to be dedicated to the piwis. Maybe ill just send it all to u set up . Im not sure with how busy i have been that i have the mental band width to navigate that entire thread. Seams like there r a ton of steps and a very specific method for getting it to work. ill shoot u a pm.

Well i didnt have time to get back to this so it will have to wait for another day. Gonna send the unit back and ill have to get something of my own up and running or borrow something in the future.

I can help you setup the laptop if you wish. We can do it remotely.

So im back on this again thx to Bruce getting a laptop set up so i have my own piwis3. Can someine run a test. When i run the lock fuel door and lock door test i dint hear anything but it says it "successfuly performed the functuon with no return signal" When i run the secure door test, i hear a small click like a relay from in the car but not the doors and when i stop the test i hear the locks cycle through the "unlock". Can someone run the test and let me know the results...im gonna pull the wheel liner to pull the plug off the tank lock to see if its the cause of my problems now

Also anyone know the difference between the "diagnostic" tab and the "diagnostic 38.250" tab?

I removed the plug from the sensor and i have a ground on both pins. The ground signal does nit change when i run the test in the powis. Any thoights?

1 other clue may be that the piwis also thinks that its commanding the blinkers but they r not lighting up. They work fine when driving. The command for the interior lights does work. Off to the schematic.... i think my next step is to pull the seat and check the path to the tank door and see if there is any output ar the immobilizer.

Did a little more testing. I pulled the plug from the immobilizer and tested the tank wires It turns out that they r shorted together. It looks like this may be an issue from the po. The plug has the 2 wires for the tank door labled with a paint marker. I guess when i moved the harness i "fixed" the short but its back. I cut the one wire because i could not get it to de-pin but no joy.....i still get the double beep . i tried to test it with the piwis but the usb connector broke off the dongle.....off to aliexpress for a new one. I guess i may have fixed the issue and maybe its not resetting because of the cut wire but i doubt it. I did open the immobilizer and its super clean so i really dont think its the issue. Im gonna have to wait for a new dongle to be sure.

Well i wild goose chased myself....i forgot i tapped into the tank door circuit for the hood/trunk lock. I kept my mk1 manual levers and the servo was allowing continuity. I unpluged it and tested the wires and all is fine but u still get the double beep. Not sure.where to go from here orher then to send the unit out for testing. @Porschetech3 u have any thoughts?

I could fix that if you want to send it to me.

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Do you get doors locking now ? I think the doors locks have two motors in each...one motor locks the door and one motor unlocks ,,,,then there are micro-switches that tell the Imoo if the doors reached full lock or unlock... I would manually lock and unlock the locks to check the micro-switches, and I would unplug both door locks, then only plug in one at a time to test the lock/unlock functions... I think that if a lock motor or lock micro-switch is bad, it will double beep because the doors are not locked..( they were commanded to be locked)

Well thats what is happening. The locks r not even trying to lock. I have already replaced both lock actuators with the ones from the gt3 car with no change. I can turn the key in the door and force the door to lock but there is no key cyl for the pass side so i cant force that side. I can see all the microswitches on piwis and they all read correctly even when i forced the lock to not retract. The door locks r not even trying to lock (even when commanded by the piwis)and im not getting any 12v to the tank door on either wire. I did not test the door lock wire because of the broken dongle. The piwis said it was sending the signal (12v) to lock but i was not getting an output.

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Text inbound, thx

For door locking here are the three wires you are concerned with.. on the Immo (1) Connector II / pin 3 BL/YE (goes to both doors) (2) Connector II / pin 9 GR/RE ( goes to both doors) (3) Connector I / pin 19 BL/BR ( goes to both doors) You could test for +/- at the Immo and at both doors, and/ or you could test continuity from doors to Immo

So i tested a bunch of pins Lbp - lock button pushed B1 - confirmed ground B2 - alarm horn, gets 12v and sounds when lbp B3 - lock motor, gets 12v when lpb but its retracting the lock as i can feel it agaunst the key in door when it lights B4 - consumer switch, 12v B5 - tank door on/off, no power when lbp B6 - left turn sig, no power when lbp B7 - supply term 30, 12v B8 - external consumer term 30, 12v B9 - locking engine (door lock), no power when lbp B10 - tank door, no power when lbp B11 - inside light, 12v when lbp B12 - right turn sig, no power when lbp A19. No power when lbp. Also central lock button does nothing and wont light up. I can jump 12v to B9 if u think its safe...maybe do it with plug off the immobilizer to test it? I guess i can pull the door cards tomor and test the wires but it seems like the immo is just not sending the 12v power to a bunch of items

Quotes source post: 19869178

Yes with both connector disconnected you could ground A19 and put power to B9 and see if the locks lock.... The tank lock is on a separate wire but may be same power source "inside" the IMMo .....The Immo may have a burnt transistor from the short to the tank lock....

Ok one more time.... i got the blnkers to work by appling 12v and the tank lock to operate by appling ground/12v and swaping them to make it go in/out so they work. I can not get the locks to opperate. Can someone explain the circuit? I applied ground to A19 (bl/bn) and 12v to B9(gn/rd) and still get nothing. But when put 12v to B9, B3(bu/ye) also gets 12v. I dont understand the power flow here. By the pic it looks like that shouldnt happen? I also get nothing when i put 12v on B3 (also travels to B9) and ground A19. I know the unlock works with the immo hooked up. I feel like im doing something wrong when trying to jump the lock? I know the next step is pulling the door cards and double checking the wires but im not convinced there is an issue.....but is there one based on my readings @Porschetech3 Edit: after looking at the drawing it appears A7 is the ground trip for the unlock and when tested it works dor thw pass side as its suppose to.....so it appears my issue is with A19 and i need to start tracing it. Since it doesnt work either door the break must be before the splice, uhg its gonna be hard to find. Is it a fair assuption that power is not being supplied to those other pins because its not locking (hitting the micro switch) and should B9 and B3 be hot all the time or r they the trigger and A19 is suppose to be a constant ground? edit #2: welp being tired and not following the schematic lines i made a mistake. A7 is the window drop pass side and that works along with A25 for the drivers side. I was suppose to ground A28 for the pass side motor to unlock and that did nothing too. So im back to same issue that i can not jump the motors to activate the lock in either direction.

You can unscrew and disconnect the door harness at the door jamb without taking the door card off. I would ring out the wires to the lock motors. I think both lock motors are reversible and they have to run in sequence. So the middle wire is grounded. Then the top wire gets 12V until a switch trips. Then the bottom motor gets 12V until a switch trips. Or something like that. To unlock it's reversed. Middle wire gets 12V. Bottom wire gets ground until a switch trips. Then top wire gets ground until a switch trips. I don't know the actual sequence though.

So, if you lock manually, you can command "unlock" ?? Correct ? But you cannot get an unlock by jumping the wiring on A19 to B3 or B9 ?? It doesn't make since.....I suppose you could verify continuity on those three wires, because the problem has to lie on one of those three or inside the Immo...

I think theperf is right....That motor called the "Safe Motor" does something sophisticated besides just lock/unlock...some sort of double lock ... But there is still only 3 wires to the "motors/actuators" ....lol All the rest are just position micro-switches .....

When i lock the door with the key i can feel the mechanical action of the key cyl forcing the lock motor but the car beeps twice and forces the lock acuators on both side to the unlock position. I can manually hold the key in the locked position and overide the drivers door lock but the pass side still goes back to the unlock position.

Quotes source post: 19870891

so r u thinking that power should not travel through the top wire to the middle wire? With the plugs removed from the immo i can put 12v to B9 and B3 gets 12v and the same if reversed. This seems wrong to me, like they may be shorted together?

If you put 12V on the middle wire with the other 2 *disconnected* you should get 12V on the other 2, because the motors pass the voltage like a wire when disconnected. Actually if you put 12V on any of the 3 the other 2 should have 12V if all 3 are disconnected from the immo. That's a continuity check. What's the resistance between the middle and top wires, also middle & bottom wires? All 3 disconnected from the immo of course.

Got it. The A19 doesnt power at any time, this is the bottom wire. The top B9 and middle B3 will both enegize if either one is given 12v. R u sure the 12v should travel through the motor? If its a dc motor it should need ground ln 1 side and 12v on the other. There should be continuity(ohm reading) between them all.

Now im officially very confussed and thats pretty hard to do. I pulled the door cards and ringed the wires. All are correct with no shorts across any other wires in the immo. The door lock motors measure 7.5 ohm and 4.5 ohm accross the A1(B3 immo) and A3(B9 immo) motor contacts. A9 (A19 immo) does not have continuity with anything. All of these results r the same for both the lock actuators from the gt3 donor and my origjnal mk1 doors, so unless i have 4 broken door locks (very doubtful) they r fine. The weird thing i was able to apply 12v to A1 and my test light to A2(actuator) and the motor started buzzing like it was turning slowly but nothing was physically moving on the actuator. There was no ground to any of the pins (even ground to A9 didnt effect it. The voltage accross the test light was 10.2 volts. I could also swap A2, A1 and the same thing happens. Im guessing this means there has to be a resistor(light bulbs r resistors) in-line for the motor to kick? So the 10 million dollar question is how do u actuate a lock actuator on the bench properly? I see there is a 180ohm resistor in the central locking button circuit.....is this the answer?

I finally found something wrong. I dont have continuity between A1 on the central locking botton plug and pin A29 on the immo. I do have continuity from A2 on the plug to A29 on the immo. I do remember hooking the clb and the defroster plugs reversed so maybe i burned out the 180ohm resistor. Does anyone have any idea where it it in the harness. Unfortunately my spare mk1 harness is different. Does the peanut gallery think this could be the issue....maybe without the signal the immo wont lock the doors or i burned out pin A29 (immo) by hooking up the harness wrong. Either way i have to find this resistor

Porsche is well known for putting fancy elctronics/micro-processors in other wise simple electrical items like relays, switches ect, just to do elaborate things but the wiring diagram doesn't even show anything but two motors and some grounding micro-switches...I have never hear d of any thing fancy in a door lock ,, ( but there is deffiinatly some fancy stuff in window motors) . Don't use a test light when powering the lock on the bench...it wont send enough amperage to actuate ......Just use small wires and if you want to be really safe put a 2 amp fuse in-line. Yes 12v DC motor can have power potential go through the motor and out the other wire if that wire isn't grounded...Has to be grounded for the potential to do "work" Here is your diagram in red rectangle .. just three wires. Power to A1 and ground to A2 should move that motor in one direction .. Switching to ground on A1 and power on A2 should move that motor the other direction.. Power to A9 and ground to A1 should move the "safe motor" in one direction...Switching to ground on A1 and power on A9 should move the safe motor in the other direction.. When bench testing continuity you should get ~ 4 ohm between A1 and A2 and also between A1 ande A9.......between A2 and A9 should be ~ 8ohm... And of course testing continuity of the three wires from the lock all the way to Imoo each should be 0 ohms....

Maybe I'm looking at the wrong diagram.. mine shows the Immo wires to the lock as being B3 B9 and A19 ??? Can you post your diagram ?

A19(immo) does go to the door lock. A29(immo) goes to the central locking botton. I did have a straight 12v power going to b3. Ill have to try putting a ground on b9. I was using the testlght as the ground side. I tried a straight ground and it sparked when testing in the car. Maybe i did it wrong and crossed a diffferent wire....ill bench test the motors individually

So figured it out. Skip u were kinda right. All u have to do is have B9 and B3 of the immo with 12v on one and ground on the other ti get them to lock and then reverse them for unlock. I must have screwed somethjng up when i tested it through the harness but on the bench all of my lock actuators r working fine. Still not sure about the A19 wire but u do t need it to activate the locks. That leaves me with finding/fixing this 180ohm resistor. If that doesnt "wake" the immo up then its off to Ecudoctors.

The A19 and B3 at the Immo should do the same thing on the other motor ( Safe Motor) .(.A9 to A1 at the lock) ....and switching polarity should reverse direction...,

Ill test it again but i dont get anything from the A19 and B3 combo in either polarity. I know what it says but i dont get continuity between those pine either.

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I suspect the A19 wire from the IMMO has an open circuit since it works on the bench test A1-to A9 ? Have you tested the continuity of the BL/BN wire from the Immo to the door locks?

Quotes source post: 19872821

Yes and A19 rings out to both sides with no short to any other wires. You have read my post a little bit wrong. A19 and B9 do nothing (with ground and 12v applied) and there is no continuity when i bench test all of my actuators. I agree from the drawings they should act similar ro B3 and B9 but they dont.

Quotes source post: 19872968

Do you mean A19 and B3? B3 is the common one for both motors. You checked the door lock devices out of the car, sounds like? The "Safe Motor" might not be a motor at all, it might be a solenoid? I can't find a picture of the inside of the door lock mechanism right now. I'm sure you noticed both door locks have the motors in parallel. So if one set of wires is shorted neither lock will work. I'm thinking you don't have an oscilloscope. If you could back-probe the immo pins while locking and unlocking to see what voltages are there you could see if the immo is doing the right thing. The 180 ohm resistor in the frunk unlock switch won't have anything to do with this. The frunk & engine lid switches are wired to the same immo pin and the 180 ohm resistor is how the immo tells them apart. Same with the 180 ohm resistor in the central locking button. The unlock and lock positions go to the same input to the immo, the 180 ohm resistor is how the immo tells which side of the switch was pressed.

Yes i bench tested all 4 of the lock actuators and they all act the same so im asauming they r all good. The 180 ohm resistor behind the central lock button is burnt. No continuity through it. So im guessing the immo does not know what state it is in and shuts down the ability to lock stuff? i do not have frunk and engine lid switches. I kept the y2k mk1 manual handles and use the tank lock circuit to activate the the locking soleniod. There is nothing wrong with that circuit when 12v and ground r applied. I have measured the voltage outputs for the B plug. When commanded by the pwis the blinkers, tank lock, door lock do not get any power. The alarm horn, interior light get 12v and work. B 2,7,8 have 12v as they should and B1 has ground. What i need to do is replace the 180 ohm resistor and hook eveything back up. If it still doesnt work then it has to be the immo. Can anyone id the wattage of this thing? Also a pic of it in the harness to peeps will know where it is. Edit: thx Theprf.. . Looks like its 1/4 watt and i will have to wait till saturday for amazon to deliver since there is no Radio Shack any more

Well i fixed the 180ohm circuit and still no joy . It seems there is deff something wrong with the immo. I did get my new piwis dongle today so im gonna run a few more tests tomor but ill probably be pulling the computers and sending them off to Ecudoctors

Yeah, the blinker and tank lock are on separate wiring from the door locks, so must be an internal power transistor that has failed..

To mostly close this one out Ecudoctors diagnosed the issue as bad tracks in the board. They r gonna repair it for around $750. Pricey but i guess they have to pay for their equipment too. I decided to get a valey key made for another $275 even though i have a piwis now and i guess i could figure it out if i can get the ipass code? Im thinking i can have Ecudotors supply it since i did buy the key. At least i didnt break the immo, its just old. Ill check back in when i get it back in the car.

Make sure you don't have any shorts in the wiring or the traces will burn out again.

I have already toned out the entire B harness and its good. The only fault i found was the burned up resistor to the clb. Toning out the A harness is more difficult but it doesnt seem anything jn that harness can cause an issue. I went through the scematics and the switches r the same other then defrost being on/off and clb is momemtary. Maybe a constant 12v burnt the small 1/4amp resistor? Either way i get a 1 year warrentee on the immo. They dont think anything in the harness caused the fault but who knows.

Yes it would be very nice of them to give you your IPAS/programming codes....put them in a safety box and don't loose them so you can do your own Key/Immo/DME programming later on..

Well i didnt get the ipas code but their key works just fine. 1 day ill pry it out of the dealer. The good news is i can call this issue fixed. I fianlly got around to testing the tank lock and its dead but not shorted. I still left the connector off jic. Got the immo and dme back in and it all works like its suppose to. So maybe it was a short in the tank lock or that part of harness or swapping the defrost and clb button or the immo was just old......who knows?