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YOUR RESEARCH?99 3.4ltr: Oil Leak from header flange bolt
Leading reported evidence
Repair by a pro like hoffman in athens, ga
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No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
IMHO, to do it right, the head will need to be removed and repaired by a pro like Hoffman in Athens, GA.
Leading evidence: 'Repair by a pro like hoffman in athens, ga' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check on the jbw and studd' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Today when I went to go check on the JBW and studd.
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Suggestion
1st the heat of the exhaust is breaking it down and/or the hole wasnt clean when u put the stud in.
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Suggestion
Mark the 28mm depth by using brightly colored electrical tape)
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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�99 911 3.4ltr
Weird problem: oil leaking from the drivers side header flange bolt closest to the water pump (end bolt) after tapping a new exhaust flange hole.
I also noticed there�s a crack on the side. So I used High heat JB Weld on the outside. And put a studd with red threadlocker on it and put it in the hole.
There was never any dripping oil coming out so it�s not under pressure right there.
I didn�t even bottom out the drill when I did the tap.
Today when I went to go check on the JBW and studd. I decided to see if I could remove the studd. It wasn�t very tight so I took it out and a glob of oil came out with some metal shavings on it. I cleaned it and sprayed breakcleaner on it snd then nothing no more oil leak. I put a Q-tip in the hole and it is dry.
So where is this oil coming from? What did I mess up? The car ran fine and had good oil pressure last week when I drove it once.
Ok, need to pry a little. Let me guess here... you changing out the headers and snapped the rusted heads on the fasteners; therefore, you needed to bore out the remaining bolt studs with a jig. Upon boring stud out, you unknowingly went a little too deep causing the drill bit to grind through the bolt hole and inside the head. Am I close?
How did crack occur? Over torquing the new fastener?
IMHO, to do it right, the head will need to be removed and repaired by a pro like Hoffman in Athens, GA. You could just live with it, but you may find the oil leak get worse.
IMHO no, the engine needs to be dropped because the head bolts are a beast to remove and very long. Count it a blessing. It's probably time to replace the Variocam wear pads, AOS, RMS, IMS Bearing, Coolant Expansion Tank, among other things.
Oil in the hole might be from when u re-tapped the hole? It may also have been condensation but doubtfull. The red locktight may not of held for 2 reassons. 1st the heat of the exhaust is breaking it down and/or the hole wasnt clean when u put the stud in. Locktight will not cure if mixed with oil.
Yep, drop the engine(6 hour job) and ship the head off to Hoffman.
You drilled through an oil passage, so you need the head repaired and the metal shavings cleaned from the head, or they will circulate though the oil and could cause catastrophic damage.
Best case is it can easily be repaired and you're out for the repair and some shipping, and some tools for re-timing the heads, and the instructional video on how to time flat-6 heads.
(Videos:
https://theknowledgegruppe.com/produ...ideos-bundles/
)
I would also get the torque spec book!
(Book:
https://theknowledgegruppe.com/produ...96-automobile/
)
Worse case you need a new head, and the tools and video and book.
With the Fastening Specifications book, "torque book" you can look up the fastener and know how much torque to apply.
Sometimes you can't reach bolts with a torque wrench, so you'll have to practice on bolts you can reach. (i.e. in a vise on your workbench) until you know about how much torque to appy.
Cheap torque wrenches are available from Amazon or Harbor Freight or most auto parts supply stores.
Most are accurate enough.
The book also gives fastener specs.
The header bolt is 28mm long.
This means you don't drill more than 28mm below the head.
Mark the 28mm depth by using brightly colored electrical tape)
(Actually I will normally take the last 2mm extremely slowly often running them by hand)
All the advice is for if/when this happens in the future.
The easiest way to drill out broken bolts is to not break any, hence the book.
When that's unavoidable, go slowly.
Torque book:
Psst, #4 is only 17 ft-lbs.
These specs are crucial if you're going to R&R your head.
Last time I looked, Steven Tyler is the lead singer for Aerosmith, and he wrote the song Dream On. In fact, I often think Tyler is Aero ... and Perry is Smith, hence Aerosmith the name.
Yeah Steven Tyler wrote the lyrics, but without Aerosmith he didn't have any harmony. Music is a communal thing.
Nobody ever says �he that was a great James Hetfield song� or �did you hear that Maynard Keenan jam!�
It�s only when singers go solo like paul McCartney.
I get both of your arguments. I've spent my life in the studio business and while "credits" to songs today can involve many people and even companies, normally the credit for a song usually leans to the writer(s). For the song Dream On, Steven Tyler also came up with the chords and the melody line to the song at a very early age. Of course, Joe Perry and the band Aerosmith secure all credit to the original accompaniment (i.e. sound) as recorded and performed. I can't even imagine that song without Joe Perry's riffs throughout that masterpiece.
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