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YOUR RESEARCHInstalled GT3 suspension on 996 C2
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different alignment settings
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I've read threads about how driving a GT3 on the street is very difficult, but my conclusion is that is due to the different alignment settings for GT3.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Got the rears installed on mine, but I'm converting from a set of Godspeed coilovers to the GT3 stuff.
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I will post more of the suspension installed tomorrow.
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Top view of Tarrett mount installed with Tarrett top nut.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I would recommend driving around a bit to try and get the suspension to settle, but I did that and the car still dropped 5-10mm a week after the alignment.
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different alignment settings
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Reported cause
I've read threads about how driving a GT3 on the street is very difficult, but my conclusion is that is due to the different alignment settings for GT3.
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I just put a GT3 suspension on my �99 Carrera and wanted to share some pictures if anyone wanted to do this install in the future. I followed the thread for the ROW M030 install on renntech for the most part, only a couple of things were changed.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7073
To get a MK2 GT3 suspension working on a MK1 or MK2 996 C2 you will need the following:
1)GT3 dampers and springs
2)GT3 upper strut mounts
3)GT3 sway bar mounts and links for the rear
Often times you will find a used GT3 suspension with just the dampers and springs, the seller will keep the monoball front strut mount and sway bar mounts. You will need to then purchase items 2 and 3 from the list above. I purchased my upper strut mounts from Suncoast for roughly $450 new. Look carefully at the pictures below to see which parts you will need to order. You will need anything and everything on the parts diagram that your kit is missing�
The OEM sway bar mounts cannot be purchased through your dealership. These are only available through Porsche motorsport for about $200+ EACH. I bought an aftermarket version from Arlan Motorsports. The owner is VERY knowledgeable about 996 suspension setups, so feel free to have an extended discussion with him about your setup. I also purchased adjustable sway bar links from Arlan as well. Another $500 spent
**It is possible to reuse your front sway bar links (they mount at the pinch bolt), but not the rear; you need OEM GT3 or aftermarket links. I suggest getting adjustable links front and rear while you�re at it.**
Once you have the strut mounts, I chose to swap the bolts to get extra camber in the front (that�s what they are there for). You can get (I THINK) a max of -1.8 camber on the front with the factory holes and anywhere from �1.8 to -2.5 MINIMUM with the bolts swapped, depending on your ride height. The choice is up to you. To swap the bolts, you will have to hammer them out and back into the new holes, mark the holes you want to use with a sharpee and knock the bolts out. You need to be very careful not to damage the threads when doing this. I put a nut on the top of the bolt so I wouldn�t miss and destroy my threads. It is better to give 2 or 3 really strong hits with the hammer rather than tapping at it all day, and it go nowhere. Next, swap the bolt locations and hammer them back in. The back end of a 3/8� extension works well to hammer the bolt in. I laid the mount on a big *** socket I had where the bolt can pass through the center.
Now you need to assemble the front and rear coilover assemblies. The height specs for the GT3 coilovers are shown below.
**NOTE that to achieve factory GT3 RIDE HEIGHT, the height adjustor collar will be about 1� lower than the �spec� height since the C2 wheel carriers and control arms are different. The front can be assembled without a spring compressor, in fact you won�t be able to get the craftsman compressor to even fit. The rear will need a spring compressor. I would start off running 1� lower than GT3 height and go from there once the car is on the ground.
Next remove the caliper, loosen then strut mount bolts and pinch bolt rip out front suspension and install. Similar procedure for the rear.
Once the coilovers are installed, drop the car and set the ride height with the sway bars dethatched. I would recommend driving around a bit to try and get the suspension to settle, but I did that and the car still dropped 5-10mm a week after the alignment.
You can run the stock C2 sway bars on the GT3 coilovers and have a pretty good setup. The GT3 sway bars will provide some additional grip, and are adjustable.
I did the same a couple of months ago but got lucky and had a full suspension where I didn't need anything. Fast forward 3 months and now I run GT3 suspension, sway bars, wheel carriers and brakes. Since I had gotten tarrett front end links before swapping the carriers, I still use them has pinch bolt configuration and not with the collar like on the GT3.
Great write up!!
Thanks for excellent write-up! I have few question though...:
-Do you use GT3's adjustable front sway bar? If yes, how did you connect it to the wheel carrier, if you're not using sway bar mounts at dampers? Any pictures?
-I've seen a discussion about a necessity to use a sleeve between damper and wheel carrier, when installing a cup car suspension to a GT3...if I understood that correctly then... In the picture you poster is no sleeve, so it was a perfect match..?
-Did you change lower suspension arms to GT3's adjustable ones?
All these questions because I've been offered cup car fully adjustable dampers ( Bilsteins with external canisters and Porsche part #'s ) and I'm still figuring out if they can be mated with std wheel carriers. Future project, C4 with turbo front wheel carriers, to accommodate GT3 mkII's bigger calipers. Yes, I know, I'll need 997 turbo's discs then too...
Thanks! This clarified one part of the problem.
Actually after posting my questions I found this thread from Renntech:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...howtopic=22097
Here's one picture:
Compared to picture above the damper ( and the car's weight ) seem to be resting on the sway bar mount, on the top of the wheel carrier. So, either one's got to get those sway bar mounts, or use an extra set of collars. Or there's a third way too...the sleeve perhaps?
And if the damper sits so low, it's in the way of the drive shaft. Unless turbo's whell carrier geometry is different.
GT3 susp on 996 C2... Looks like a trend
In my installation the shock rests on the lower drop link collar and that is a key component to establishing the car's ride height without reducing the suspensions allowed travel. Without the lower drop link collar I don't know for sure but the pinch bolt should hold things in place... I would suggest scribing the install location and checking after heavy use/abuse to make sure it stays put.
Also, it is physically impossible to use this GT3/GT2 suspension with a C4 or Turbo in all wheel drive configuration. As you pointed out the Front shock is in the way of the front axles.
The stabilizer block holds the strut from sliding in the carrier. I have seen guys use extra adjustment collars to do the same. For sure these shocks wont fit C4S or turbo. BTW GT3 carriers and C2 carriers are 95% the same. Beside the caliper mounting holes being 1/4" further apart, the area behind the pinch bolt is grinded down to make room for end link knuckle. Just like in the picture posted above.
I've been doing some searching, and found this picture:
It shows that turbo's front geometry is indeed different. There is also be a discussion going on about this swap in both 996 turbo board and in Renntech. I'm now waiting to Ryan ( TXGold ) chiming in...
So, my future progect seems still to be going on as planned. These boards are very effective places to gather useful information. Thanks for your input, and sorry about a light thread hijack!
Pete
So far with a 951, 3.0l with GT3 mkII brakes
Thanks for the report. EXcellent.
I'm the process to change the C2 at a GT3 specifications.
For the suspension:
My car has the M030 stock, and in this moment I bought the GT3 sway bars, and modified front droplinks.
So I need I think:
1)GT3 dampers and springs
2)GT3 upper strut mounts
I have informacion that I didn�t need the modified droplinks for the rear.
And then a adjustment ayt trhe camber wright?
For the brakes:
I need:
- front and rear calipers
- front and rear 330mm discs
Someone can help me in this adventure?
Thanks
Aboult the rear droplink I have this info:
The 996 c2 rear droplink can be used with Gt3 bar.
The front 996 C2 drop link must be shortened by 20-30mm otherwise the arb touches the track control arm. The drop link is cut, joined by a cylinder and welded carefully so as not to melt the ball joint ends.
I finaly end to buying the suspension the GT3 MKII.
I have the struts, shocks, springs, tops, and sway bars.
The front drop link was modified to acomodate this new sway bar.
Aboult the rear droplink I have this info:
The 996 c2 rear droplink can be used with Gt3 bar, but if we used a GT3 shock, can�t be used since was different angles.
So to resolv that we have to install the GT3 rear droplink, or a Tarett.
I have just finished installing GT3 takeoffs onto my 1999 C2 Cab. The set I purchased did not have the upper adjustable strut mounts. I was told I could reuse my stock 99 C2 Strut Mounts. This link says it is required. What are some of the concerns with using the stock strut C2 mounts on GT3 coilovers? They seem to fit just fine.
I did notice I could not use the GT3 front drop links as they interfered with the stock Knuckle that houses the stock drop link. I am currently using the stock drop links and stock front sway bar. I am noticing a spring noise when I turn the wheel left to right. I am not sure if this is Sway bar binding due to the new height of the car or something to do with the stock upper strut mount. The rear GT3 sway bar with GT3 drop links bolted right up and works perfectly. REcap questions -
1. Any issues using sock C2 upper Strut mounts with GT3 coilovers?
2. Any issues using stock C2 front drop links and swaybar with GT3 coilovers? Can Binding occur?
can you post some pics of your install ?
I'd be curious to see how you set those struts with the c2 upper mounts.
I know most people go for the monoball uppers from tarret when they do the gt3 upgrade.
I have bought a set of used gt3 suspension that I plan to install shortly on my base C2 coupe.
I already have the tarret upper front and plan on buying the rear uppers. I also have adjustable drop links to i can't comment much on your issue but I hope some others will chime in
Phil
I just wanted to say that I have the EXACT same setup (with Tarret drop links front&rear, and H&R sways) on my C2 and I love it. Installation was 100% direct fit!
As for the OP, I would invest in some adjustable drop links but at the bare minimum you should buy some oem GT3 drop links. The new cost is very cheap and I'm sure that if you go on the GT3 forum you can find someone who upgraded to adjustable links who will sell you their oem pair for cheap. Also it wouldn't hurt to buy some GT3 monoball mounts. You can find them for sale on the forums for less than $150......
I'm running gt3 setup and was running factory c2 swaybars with stock links just fine without any issues.
Stock top hat is fine too but won't be optimal for what the gt3 suspension was intended for.
Thanks for the feedback I will post some pics - I think the GT3 monoballs may be the way to go. The Stock top mounts do seem to be working fine. I was able to get the GT3 stock drop links when I purchased the shocks and sway bars. They are absolutely necessary for the rear but will not work on the front of my 99. The stock front strut carrier on my 99 interferes with the GT3 Sway bar link collar. The GT3 Drop Link hits the stock carrier so I needed to use my stock drop link mount. I am having the GT3 front bar installed and did replace the Stock Drop link with a Tarett 996 adjustable. The handling difference is incredible. I do need to adjust the front springs down a little as the stock GT3 rear sits a little lower due to the extra weight I think. I also think the stock upper strut mounts are a little taller than the Mono-Ball
Ok here is a picture of my C2 with GT3 shocks - Rear all GT3 with Sway and adjustable links. The front is GT3 Shocks with stock C2 top mounts, GT3 Sway bar and adjustable Tarett front links. The alignment was pretty off after the change. The only think I have happening is some spring binding on the front passenger strut when wheel is cranked. I am not sure if it needs to settle or if it is due to the stock top mounts. The Alignment Specialist said it would not hurt anything. The car handles much better is very stiff. The height is just stock GT3 settings. I will post more of the suspension installed tomorrow.
Update - I backed off some of the tension on the upper strut bolt and Binding has stopped. The stock front mounts are working great with the GT3 shocks. Compared to the stock set up this is handling like a Go-Kart now....The plush seat option is helping with the ride stiffness so all good.
OK I had to give in and buy the Tarett Engineering Monoball Upper STrut Mount. The Spring bind caused by the stock C2 mount was annoying and could not get it to adjust out. The Tarett Mount cured the Spring Bind and helped the handling. I used the out of the box setting so have some negative camber now. I also added some 997S Sport Take offs I found locally - The negative camber introduced a little rubbing at full turn - but she handles amazing and the 997 wheels were a dramatic update to the look.
is there any good guide to install the gt3 suspension with the tarett camber plates ?
I have a bunch of parts but I think I may be missing a couple of items on top of the rear suspension to make it right.
I am especially curious about the proper order to add the different metal 'cups' which on goes where. I have solver ones and black ones.
Great thread, wondering if gt3 springs will fit on 996 c4? I see a cheap set on CL. Just installed bilstein HDs. Thanks for any insight and sorry if stupid question
.
Depending on what you can get them for, it can save you a decent amount. I managed to piece together a full track suspension for less than $2500. That included GT3 shocks/springs, Tarret top mounts and swaybar links, and GMG swaybars. Given that most coil-over setups run more than that, and don't include the top mounts, it's a pretty good bang for the buck.
very helpful thread. I'm considering this myself with a used GT3 setup for sale here on RL.
1. does this make sense for a street-driven car? Is the ride fairly harsh?
2. what is the ride height range? IE can the car be adjusted to be close to factory C2 ride height if I bottom out too much?
3. are the Bilstein shocks/struts rebuildable? By whom?
I'll answer my own questions for any future searches:
1. the car is streetable as a daily driver; on the roughest of roads it can be harsh
2. cannot achieve anywhere close to factory C2 ride height (attempting to do so causes too much preloading of the springs)
3. shocks and struts are not rebuildable per bilstein
so be prepared to spend money obtaining replacements
Additionally, what's not mentioned in the first post is that you also must have adjustable rear toe control arms. Using standard C2 toe control arms and setting rear ride height at 125mm (GT3 ride height) causes close to 1/4" total rear toe in (factory is about 1/16" total).
I've read threads about how driving a GT3 on the street is very difficult, but my conclusion is that is due to the different alignment settings for GT3. Using the standard C2 alignment (or as close as possible) the car is well behaved
I just purchased a 02 C2 with full GT3 kit and sure enough the rears struts are just slightly damp. Has anyone had success having them rebuilt and bilstein misled Joseph or am I really SOL?
And for the record....thanks Joseph for answering your own questions for future purposes!
I personally sent my set of gt3 factory bilstein (see pic above) to be rebuilt by Bilstein in California a few years back...took like 2 or 3 months to get done ...not sure if they still do it.. it was not very expensive. less than $1200 I think.
I ended up installing a used PSS9 set but then sold my gt3s in leaking condition for nearly what I paid for the PSS9s. Buyer of my gt3s sent them to elephant racing in Santa Clara to be rebuilt. I believe rebuild was around 250 each.
Yes, opening a really old thread, sorry for that but I'm trying to get my head around the setup on my -98 C2 I bought in January.
I have gotten some comments regarding the setup have some elements of GT3 setup, swaybar link position for example.
One of my issues with the car is the clearance between the steering rod and the swaybar, picture is taken with max feasible turning radius.
And it looks like some one have done as mentioned in the quote above, but are using a different link arm fixation point.
So I guess my solution is to find longer then stock C2 link arms to find a position of the swaybar somewhere in between the steering rod and the lower link arm?
Br/Johan
Yes the bend in the sway bar should be much closer to the lower control arm. If i want to test it just unbolt the links, rotate the bar down and then have someone steer the car back and forth u will see the steering tie rod easily clear.
Please enlighten me as to why this is better or worse then getting new pss9/10 or ohlins r//t
also what ride would I get with a gt3 over the aftermarket
I did not read the entire thread but the gt3 comes with Sachs springs amd dampers with stiffer spring rates and valving. It also havs a unique ride height. Nothing u cant replicate with any aftermarket kit. Because they use different sway bars and dont use struts the links r different. There is enough aftermarket support that u can go directly to a gt3 set up as i did and not use any factory gt3 parts. Hth?
The issue here with the revivalist of this thread is that the person the owned the lastest car in question did not set the sway bar links up correctly.
My understanding is the carriers and uprights are more so for the brakes? If the GT3 suspension lines up and installs just like a regular C2 does, one would believe the geometry is exactly the same? Right now I'm almost done acquiring all the small parts I need to get the GT3 suspension with the correct sways in the car. While my car won't be
@De Jeeper
GT3ish, it'll be GT3-esque and weigh less than a 996.2 GT3.
Correct the geometry is exactly the same so u can get the same performance that porche designed into the gt3 suspension in a c2 by just bolting in the parts. Although the overall aspects of cars performance may not be the same as a gt3 due to all the other differences in areo, brakes and drivetrain.
Having just done this on my GT2ish, there are so many subtle differences that I doubt it's worth it if you have a RWD car.
As an example the GT2/GT3 front wheel carriers take the 142mm bolt spacing Turbo/GT2/GT3 calipers directly. BUT, you need to use GT2/GT3 fitment rotors. The GT2/GT3 wheel carriers position the rotor disk 2mm closer to the center of the car. The much cheaper and more readily available 996/997 Turbo rotors don't fit.
What I did was to get some rotor spacers laser cut out of 304 Stainless so I can use the Turbo rotors. There are no slotted, undrilled GT2/GT3 rotors available unless you go to 2-piece rotor setups. The spacers let me run the 997 Turbo 350mm slotted Sebro rotors which are downright cheap in comparison. I have few extra sets of the rotor spacers... I had to by 5 sets.
Another little difference is there is no provision to mount the front drop links to the GT2/GT3 wheel carriers, they must be mounted to the strut bodies. When using motorsport struts that means you'll need to use a kit like the Tarret extended drop link kit to have any front sway at all. All the little bits like brake hard lines and brake line mounting parts are different too. I have all the part#'s to get this stuff from Porsche.
The GT2/GT3 front wheel carriers are nicer for brake cooling, the heat shield is much smaller and just to protect the ball joint and the outer tie rod end. There is a little fiberglass blanket that gets wrapped around the ABS wheel speed sensor otherwise it would get cooked from the rotor heat.
Kinda. The solid mounts r the same thickness as the rubber bushings but they do have sleeves to prevent over compressing. I would think it would be minimal in the geometry but bigger on the performance side.
996 Cup uses a shorter solid bushing and the top of the rear subframe is milled down some. Both of these move the body tub closer to the subframe. Cup cars are really low.
Holy cow that's a lot more involved than I ever thought for that car! I'm in weird place with the brake set up. I bought a kit similar to Jason's that uses 380mm GT4 rotors, along with a bracket. Been asking Aaron a bunch of questions about suspension set up since he's done a lot of it.
The solid bushing subframe that is currently stashed away in my attic brought everything up closer to the tub enough that the swaybar interfered with the IMS Solution oil feed line. When I posted it for sale last year, someone commented that it looked like it was from a cup car.
Could be. Measure the gap from the subframe to the body tub above the driveshaft when you have a chance. I'll measure on my car which has stock subframe and rubber bushings later.
Serious question, is there really a benefit to converting to GT3 suspension as opposed to upgrading the C2 suspension with quality components? I would imagine that assuming aero is the same, a properly modified C2 suspension could out handle a stock GT3, no?
as i said earlier u can replicate the gt3 spec or improve on it with aftermarket easily. I would not buy a stock gt3 suspension unless u r a purist. The spring rates r higher and valving is tighter, sway bars r adjustable. Remember the gt3 is lighter in most cases and u would need an aerokit to get similar aero characteristics.
I know everyone's case varies and I know you're not coming at me... it was a good question. In my case, I'm a weirdo and I analyze things like a weirdo. Ended up paying 500.00 for the set and all they really need are the hats. Feels would be the next best alternative to say a set of Ohlins or PSS10 being the most popular. Are a set of Feels 700.00 better? I don't know? Will I able to outdrive a factory GT3 suspension with the other Tarett upgrades? Absolutely not. By the time I'm done refreshing everything, the cost would be around 2500.00 which includes the LCAs and all the Tarett parts which I believe to be pretty damned good. GT3 sways are also in that number.
I think you may be underestimating parts cost, if you only have the GT3 front wheel carriers. You're going to need:
2x GT3 front tension bolts: 99634113104
2x Front wheel bearings 99905305405
2x Front wheel hubs 99134160503
2x Axle nut 99908463402
2x Pinch bolt 90037813809
2x Pinch bolt nut 99908444509
2x Speed sensor bolt 90006711709
6x Brake backing plate bolt 99921711609
1x Left air baffle plate 99635181590
1x Right air baffle plate 99635181690
1x Left heat protection for speed sensor 99660623590
1x Right heat protection for speed sensor 99660623690
2x front wheel speed sensors 99660640600
2x Wheel bearing retainer lid 98633166120
8x Wheel bearing lid bolts 99921704209
Then if you want to run front brakes you'll need these parts:
1x GT2 front left brake pipe 996-355-581-9B
1x GT2 front left brake pipe support 996-355-501-06
1x GT2 front right brake pipe 996-355-584-9B
1x GT2 front right brake pipe support 996-355-502-06
2x Brake pipe support bracket screws 900-067-117-09
4x brake caliper bolts 999-067-047-09
Then if you want to use 997 Turbo front rotors you'll need a set of my 2mm rotor spacers.
All of these parts were still available when I bought them in January 2022. Of course you can reuse some parts from the C2/Boxster front wheel carriers like the wheel speed sensors, the wheel hubs, and the tension bolt.
@TheChunkNorris
Definitely not coming at you, brother! Or anyone seeking to do it, for that matter. I think it makes sense for your car, and if I owned your car and was upgrading suspension on it, I�d probably do the same as you are doing. It just fits with the overall theme.
I really was just asking in general to see what people thought.
Been combing thru this thread an re-reading it a few times. Could someone help me confirm that I can use the GT3 rear swaybar endlink with the OEM C2 swaybar if I have the endlink bracket on the rear damper?
Or do I still need adjustable rear endlinks, regardless?
Thanks!
Although i am not 100% i would plan on a set if adjustables. I have the gt3 ohlin suspension with gt3 bars and i would think the stock c2 links would work for some of the holes it may force the bar into the control arm as u make it tighter (move to the inner holes).
thanks for the reply! i know the stock C2 links wouldn't work but I will have a set of the GT3 links as well... most threads I've read the user didn't have the GT3 links so they opted for adjustables in most/all cases.
I believe the gt3 mount on the c/o is much higher then the mount on a c2 strut so i doubt the gt3 link would work. U may have to assemble and then see what the distance is to order the correct ones. I dont think u will find a direct answer on this. I would think u would have a better chance of the c2 link working then a gt3 link?
I�m currently in the process of collecting all the bits for this �upgrade�.
Can anyone tell me where I can get the front & rear spring perches?
thanks,
Billy
There r no spring perches on coil overs? Give us more of a description or post a pic of what u need. I have a set of gt3 front coilover top plates if thats what u need?
[QUOTE=De Jeeper;18987501]There r no spring perches on coil overs? Give us more of a description or post a pic of what u need. I have a set of gt3 front coilover top plates if thats what u need?
Sorry for the lack of info; I see now that my post must have gotten cut off when I inserted the pic of my track honey.
What I�m searching for are #6& 7 in the diagram. Porsche calls them spring hangers.
#7Fronts:
99634351190
#6 Rears:
99633352992
The rears seem to be available but fronts are listed NLA.
Thanks,
Billy
They r a little hard to come by. I believe they r the same spring retainer used by ohlin and bilstein so i would check with vendors that sell those priducts.
I�d check the ID of the springs you I tend using before buying the Ohlins or Bilstein parts rather than the OE items. I can�t remember whether the OE springs are 60, 65 or 70mm ID.
Alright, bumping this thread one more time.
Got the rears installed on mine, but I'm converting from a set of Godspeed coilovers to the GT3 stuff. I had some trouble with the rear sway bar links. According to what I'm seeing in this thread it mentions that I need GT3 specific sway bar links, but the ones already on my car appear to be correct for my setup. Mind you, I also have Eibach sway bars. I don't have a stock car to compare.
Is there a way to confirm which one I need?
Stock 996 links(what I currently have, and looks like it will work)
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...688&DID=236428
GT3 links
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...688&DID=208801
I will get some pics in the next few days
I used a specific one from Tarett, here�s the part number:
GT3RDLNK
I�m currently running:
- GT3 Ohlins R&T
- Tarett GT Sways
- Tarett Endlinks F&R
- Tarett Strut mounts
You can email them to confirm but it�s shorter than the regular C2 version.
The mk2 gt3 sways r short too so they will probably work considering u r using a stock gt3 coilover and your sway bar bolt locations will be the same as a stock bar.
I am currently installing these shocks and have a question about setting the front strut body to the hub. Given there is no longer a tab on the strut to mount the sway bar mount/bolt to the hub assembly, how confident are you in fastening the through bolt and providing sufficient clamping without the strut shifting up and down in the body under extreme force? Has anyone shimmed the gap now the strut tab is missing? Also, how do you know how high up the body to clamp the strut body?
Thanks! I can add pictures if required.
Blighty
The bolt is the same as the sway bar link stud.
Proper gt3 bolt
90037832201 and nut
99908444501.
There should be an adjuster ring or the sway bar mount that locks against the top of the upright to support the shock. Do not shim the gap, its not designed that way.
Here is my ohlin set up with a 6-rs upright (has 2 clamp bolts)
Thanks for the photos. I have not bought the extended drop links yet and was planning on the C2 endlinks to the stock mount for now. I do have some spare sway bar mounts and lock rings I could install for now do mimic this set up. I'll post a mock up in the morning.
Seeking a new answer today. Has anyone used the OEM C2 top mount with the GT3 suspension? I currently have Tarret mounts but am missing one of the smaller spacers
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/05...f?v=1666133679
SPCR78-03
Image of the Tarrett mount with spacer #6 and #7 and GT3 front strut
Side view of Tarrett mount with large spacer
Oblique view of Tarrett mount with OEM nut
Side view of OEM C2 top mount with OEM top nut (flush)
Top view of Tarrett mount installed with Tarrett top nut. Note extra threads are required
What do you think? Should I run the OEM top mounts? The car is more GT focused than track, should I get a new spacer?
I have contacted Tarrett for a new spacer and am waiting on a response. If anyone has any or would have an alternative suggestion please let me know.
Thanks, Blighty