H&R springs- Bilstein

So I went ahead and purchased new B8 bilstein shocks and H&R sport springs for my 4S. I had a local mechanic put them on thinking that suspension is suspension and everything should work out ok. I was wrong. He put everything together but did not put the strut bearings back in- said that they would not fit... and did not put in the bump stops either and is now refusing to put them back in as he said he is done with the job and everything should be fine. I went ahead and purchased the spring compressors and figured I would do this myself... any pointers or DIY on this job? Also- the front did not drop as much as the back did any way to correct this?

I'd be taking it back! From what I have read the C4 is more tricky than the C2 when it comes to changing front suspension because of the additional drive shafts. There are quite a few youtube videos on it though. I believe the procedure is similar to the 996 turbo given its AWD as well.

I looked on youtube but there is no videos that show how to change out the strut mount on the 4S or turbo. I'm thinking that I can detach the stabilizer links, axle and tie rods- then drop the strut down enough I can remove the top of the strut mount and put the bearing in its right place- then put it all back together? Was hoping there was an easier way than this though.

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Here is a video I watched recently which shows the installation of the fronts on a turbo. Again not too sure if they are the same but guess the procedure would be similar You Tube

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And you paid him for an incomplete job, why?

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You'll have to remove the axle nut and pull the wheel carrier off the axle - you'll never get the strut out below the fender otherwise (the axle wont let the assembly drop far enough). You'll need a long breaker bar as this nut is torqued to somewhere around 350 ft-lbs. (I don't remember the exact # off hand but it's high). Good luck

The way to correct this is, DOCUMENT EVERYTHING, with crystal clear pics and video. Then go to a real mechanic and have the suspension done right. Sue the first mechanic in small claims court. When he shows up, he loses. When he doesn't show up, he loses. Then have the sheriff do a “till tap” - the sheriff can go to the address of the business and take enough money out of the cash register to pay the judgment debt and the sheriff ’s fee. First complete a Writ of execution (Form EJ-130), request the small claims clerk issue it, and take it to the sheriff. Then instruct the sheriff in writing to do a “till tap.” A typical sheriff ’s fee for a till tap is $85, paid in advance to the sheriff.

Dporto- thanks- so in order to place the bearings into the strut mount the whole thing will need to be disassembled the same way as if the strut is being replaced? I was hoping to keep it in the fender with enough room to remove the mount and put it together correctly. I have a guy coming today to look at it today and want to know what too expect. Again, thanks!

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You will need to compress the spring and that will be difficult to do in the wheel well (and unsafe in my opinion). I would suggest to expect to remove the assembly as suggested.

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^This^ Sorry to be the bearer of bad news... And yes you'll also need to compress the spring to get the assembly back in. I did this job myself as outlined in this thread https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...g-springs.html Overall, it wasn't a "difficult" job aside from a few little stumbling points (spring perch/strut clamping bolt on the passenger side being the main one). Good Luck

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Thanks again. Looks like the whole assembly is coming out then. I bought new drop links and tie rods so those can go in now as well. Dporto- you did this in April- are you still enjoying the ride quality? My only hesitation with this set up on the 4S was a rougher ride "in town". But I do a spirited mountain drive as therapy one every week or so and feel the performance difference here will make up for the rougher ride during daily driving. At this point I just can't wait to get the job done!!

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^Absolutely^ The ride is no "rougher" than it was before. In fact, the original shocks/struts/top-mounts(front) were so bad that the ride is much smoother, tighter and well behaved than before that it's like night and day. Bumps that would be jarring and cause rattles and shakes before, are now simply bumps. It's too bad I didn't know you were doing this before as I still have a brand new set of B8 front struts that I wound up with after a shipping snafu

Thanks again dporto- as part of the mechanics going away present he stripped the drivers side tie rod- I went ahead and replaced that today and buttoned everything else up. I bought drop links for all 4 corners and the other side tie rod as well. At this point going to open some time finding a shop that will take over from here.... I do not have the time to do this and want to get it back on the road ASAP. I'll update with pictures once everything is finished. I can't wait to take it up into the hills once everything is right!

Got it all put back together- the rear sits lower than the from which is strange. After doing some research I need to get larger compensation plates in the rear to bump it up. Ride is actually a little better on the road and handling, although great before, is tighter around corners. Overall cost was more than I wanted to spend with the hiccups but well worth it now. Will get the rear taken care of in the next week or so.

Schweet!

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Reviving an old thread here. I�ve noticed many B8/lowering spring equipped 996 sit lower in the rear. I�m not familiar with compensation plates, can anyone chime in on these? Are there different sizes?

Mine sat lower in the rear on the H&R setup. Kind of looked like it was dragging its *** around like a dog with a lower GI issue. I recently swapped to Feal 441 coil overs because I wanted to try and dial the ride height perfectly. I ended up setting it at the X74 height, the lowest factory ride height spec I could find in the Bentley manual. I have only barely driven it (it's currently in the body shop for a bit of paint) but it looks perfect to my eye.