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After replacing brake pads/abs sensor...is there Calibration?

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YOUR RESEARCHAfter replacing brake pads/abs sensor...is there Calibration?

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Suggestion

Many pads have instruction on the recommended method.

After replacing brake pads/abs sensor...is there Calibration?
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Replace abs sensor

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Suggestion · Original poster

also, do I need to take the caliper off to replace the abs sensor?

After replacing brake pads/abs sensor...is there Calibration?
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Recommend method

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Suggestion

Many pads have instruction on the recommended method.

After replacing brake pads/abs sensor...is there Calibration?

Replace abs sensor

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1

0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.

Suggestion · Original poster

also, do I need to take the caliper off to replace the abs sensor?

After replacing brake pads/abs sensor...is there Calibration?
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8 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.

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POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I am replacing the brake pads in my 996 and was wondering if there is anything else that I need to do after it is all back together. also, do I need to take the caliper off to replace the abs sensor? are the bolted on or just pop off? thank you!

POST 2Original post

you need to bed the pads but no calibration. ABS sensors are usually held on with one screw. Can be a pain to remove, so I'd spray some penetrant on there before you go nuts with it.

POST 4Original post

Quotes source post: 13869061

Basically, drive the car in an area with no traffic and get speed up to around 70-80mph and mash the hell out of your breaks five or six times in immediate succession. You want to stop as short as you can to avoid ABS pulsing or lock-up. This will "bed-in" your pads to have good, smooth contact with your discs. It's kind of fun and will give you immediate confidence in the work you have just performed.

POST 5 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

excellent. thank you I need to get a good diagnostic machine so I can tell which tire the PSM/ABS fault is coming from. it turns off at speed. any recommendations on a good scanner?

POST 6Original post

Bedding the pads involves getting them so hot, to the point of brake fade. This deposits a layer of pad material on the rotor and allows the pads to work to their maximum ability. You don't want to come to a complete stop each time., generally 60-20 mph works fine and as jaetee mentioned, do not engage ABS Many pads have instruction on the recommended method. Do a web search for the bedding process. You also want to avoid using the brakes until they cool down a bit once you get them to f'in hot to where they are fading. If you apply the brakes reasonable hard, it can add a small spot of material to the rotor which can then cause shudder. The good news should that happen is you just need to re-bed them to fix it What pads are you using

POST 7Original post

Quotes source post: 13869086

I believe a Durametric will do what you want. Generic scanners wont

POST 8Original post

Quotes source post: 13869061

Uh, for street/stock pads no need to get them hot enough to fade. Over the years with my Porsches I've just taken the car up to highway speed then braked hard to slow the car down then repeated this process a couple of more times. No need to trigger ABS just a hard brake that brings the speed down from highway speed (65/75 (or higher if you can manage it)) to around half that speed. Release the brakes then accelerate up to speed again promptly then apply the brakes again. Repeat one more time. Three times and I can feel the brakes biting better and better. I think I tried more times the first time but didn't really notice any further gain in braking so 3's my magic number. Be sure you avoid bringing the car to a stop with the brakes hot during or after this process. Be sure you then drive the car a bit to give the brakes plenty of time to cool. It is a good idea after you do the brakes to flush/bleed the brake fluid. This is supposed to be done every 2 years. If your car is equipped with a manual transmission be sure you flush/bleed the clutch hydraulic system too. It uses the same brake fluid as the braking system and my experience is with old fluid (~2.5 years old) while braking action was unaffected by the old fluid clutch action and as a result shifting action was affected. Flush/bleed the brake/clutch fluid.

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