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YOUR RESEARCHwho measures their own toe and camber?
Leading reported evidence
Check with an expensive rack
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Leading evidence: 'Check with an expensive rack' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check alignment' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I've also used $40k-$60k alignment machines to do numerous alignments...They are much easier and faster..( less brains needed and less likely to make a mistake)
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Suggestion · Original poster
In the meantime it would be useful to check alignment to confirm it's not whacked out.
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Suggestion
U can use 1'x1' x 1/2" squares of plywood under the tires ro level it up.
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I've also used $40k-$60k alignment machines to do numerous alignments...They are much easier and faster..( less brains needed and less likely to make a mistake)
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What's your method? Strings, toe plates, levels, cell phones, inclinometers , etc. May not be perfect but still useful. How successful compared to professional alignment racks?
Cheers.
I set my own alignment for the track. Its pretty good using strings. I bought a used univeral string set up ($400), some small tools from amazon and i had hub plates made ($300). Considering its $250 a pop for an alignment i save money all the time because im always swapping out worn track parts. Fcpeuro has a real good video that will get u started.
I remember going to work for a Trucking Co. back in the early 70's when I was still in high school 11th grade. I went to school then went to work 2nd shift, and did alignments on Peterbuilts with just a Toe-Stick , a square and a level...Those Peterbuilts were long haul over the road 18 wheelers carrying thousands of pounds of payload at 120+ mph...lol
I've built race car chassis from the ground up, designed and built the suspensions and did the alignments with strings, levels, squares, measuring tape and were driven at 150+ mph
I've also used $40k-$60k alignment machines to do numerous alignments...They are much easier and faster..( less brains needed and less likely to make a mistake)
BUT you can get sloppy alignment on a $60k alignment machine and you can get a perfect alignment with basic measuring tools, It's all about the man doing the job ..
I will look at the FCP video.
I'm a long way from any reputable alignment racks so it would be good to know how far out things are to see if it would be necessary to make the trip and , to be honest, I am at least moderately suspicious.
Are those " smart strings"? Have you compared your results with a good machine alignment? It wouldn't surprise me if you get close, and get to make adjustments that would be hard to justify with taking it in to a shop every time.
Yes they r smart strings, couldnt remember when i posted.
Yes i have checked with an expensive rack. i have a local shop (met the owner through a friend) that will allow me to use his equipement and do my own alignment. I have got pretty close to where i wanted but it takes time to dial it in. Everytime u make an adustment the other measurements change. Its easier if u get a baseline alignment first and then make your adjustments to dial it in to your liking. Im constantly trying to dial in tread wear on track tires.
Ultimately that would be the goal.
In the meantime it would be useful to check alignment to confirm it's not whacked out. What are you doing to measure camber?
I made some braces to hold pipes on my four post lift to use the string method. Here is the fcp page that explains the method really well.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/at-home...align-your-car
I also use one of these for camber.
Amazon
Amazon
Thank you. I watched the video. Good concepts.
I see an angle finder in my future. Are you attaching it directly to the wheel or to a straight edge bracket of some kind?
alignment plates
Alignment plates are relatively inexpensive. Useful or no? Mostly for toe but the straight edge, and add an inclinometer like you linked, would also be good for camber.
Simple digital angle finder like this from HD. I can put it on my hub plates for an accurate measurement.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-To...hoCHkIQAvD_BwE
That's my thought too, it seems like you wouldn't be able to figure out which wheel was in or out.
You would need to be able to measure from the center line of the car to each wheel to see how much each one was toe in or toe out?
Let's see those hub plates that you had made in action!
Does that Angle finder do anything different from the one HB linked? Are some of them better than others, Worth shopping or more expensive?
This is why u need to set up strings. This gives u 2 parallel lines to measure off of.
The accuracy may be better with the kline. U will have to find the specs.
Cant find a pic on the car but i do need mod them so they r 4" taller so i can drop my lift arms out. Also i have front gt3 brakes and they mount low on ths wheel carrier so i need to make the skinner so i dont have to slade the caliper back.
And you have to confirm that those parallel lines are parallel with the center of the car. So then , at that point, those toe plates are somewhat redundant other than they give you a nice straight, bolt-on edge to measure to.
the fcp video explains it. With the knotches in the pvc exactly the same front and back....measure off the center of the wheel hub so the front and the back measurements, left to right r the same. This squares/parrallels the strings to the car. Note the distance to the strings will be different between the front and rear due to wheel track amd camber differences.
Also added info to my post above.
Inclinometer inbound! Cheap fun. It looks like they're all claiming @0.2 degree accuracy. Are there any with better specs? 0.02 would be nice but these things are inexpensive fun. I did a manual calculation using arc sin from the bottom lip to the top lip of the wheel to compare.
Do you DIY'ers all have access to a level floor or means to get the car level (with the accuracy as the tools you use for camber)?
That's paramount and the one condition I find hardest to achieve.
Yes, would be easy to imagine your floor being off by .2 degrees so need to confirm that before taking other measurements.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...t-issue-3.html
Learned a lot about rear Links here in this thread. Thanks to
@hbdunn
and others for keeping things on track.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.