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YOUR RESEARCHCoilovers
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Fill by potholes and rough
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These Oklahoma roads are filled by potholes and rough on the ride.
Leading evidence: 'Fill by potholes and rough' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill by potholes and rough' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I still change the settings on the shocks from time to time depending on the drive I do.
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Suggestion
For that little drop, no track use (no significant drop or corner balancing), and set it and forget it height, coilivers are overkill and more costly.
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In the next few months I'm looking at putting a set of coilovers on my 996. My stock suspension has 90k on it and the shocks have started leaking. The two sets I've been looking at are Ceika and Ohlins (I'm open to suggestions on other sets). My car will never be put on a track so I'm more concerned with it being comfortable on my daily driving route. I will probably lower the car, not more than half an inch. I'm also going to put new sway bars on it. What else do I need in order to keep the alignment in factory spec?
If youre not tracking, what is the goal?
For a non track car, i think upgraded struts and springs work better than coilovers. also, why do you want new swaybars?
Agree completely. For that little drop, no track use (no significant drop or corner balancing), and set it and forget it height, coilivers are overkill and more costly. Euro M030 will get the job done.
Bilstein PSS10 are another coilover option if you really want to go down that road.
I'm looking at coilovers because struts and springs cost about the same. My car doesn't see a track because there are none near me. It still gets driven hard and raced, just not on a track.
+1
Feal is adjustable, so you can set it softer for daily driving, and stiffer for spirited weekend driving.
The price is great too.
You’ll likely also need front adjustable drop links and rear adjustable toe links.
For a street car , the row mo30 is a good option .
but if you want a street coilover the h&r street performance coilover is a good option , affordable and German made .
bilstein core , very similar to the factory gt3 units which were also bilstein cores with h&r springs and ride height adjustable ( which is nice to have and not available if you go the shocks & springs route) , perfectly at home during to odd track day or de too.
I have the Ohlins coilovers in my 996 and they are great. You can dial in how harsh you want or soft you want. Really transformed my cab from the tired oem bits.
Hello Thibaulb,
I am in the same situation as you with 138K on my C4S. With a $1,500 budget, I may be leaning towards FEAL vs. Ceika for the coilovers. H&R if I can get them lower than that, I may look into them. The ROW M030 is just about that same price point but does not have the adjustability factor. Only looking to have my C4S lowered to about .5 to 1inch. These Oklahoma roads are filled by potholes and rough on the ride. I use my vehicle for daily driven on the street.
Just picked up the Ohlins R&T with the rear extension cables due to the Bose subwoofer. Also picked up adjustable drop links and new top mounts. Taking it in Monday for install.
All "coilovers" have some height adjustability, or else they wouldn’t really be "coilovers" they would just be struts.
Some have adjustable dampening and some are fully adjustable for dampening and rebound.
It’s a really tough decision.
I wanted adjustability because my car is a daily driver and some roads around here...suck.
But I didn’t want to spend a bunch, so I was planning on buying
I used to use Konis when I raced an SCCA GT3 VW Scirocco in the 80s.
They are not cheap, but they were cheaper than coilovers.
I also wanted to lower my car only a little.
My car was scraping the front spoiler when pulling into the driveway, so I had a new driveway poured.
(It was also cracked badly and uneven)
Now the 996 doesn’t scrape, but I don’t want to lower it where it scrapes again.
Also in the parking garage at work they have recently added speed bumps.
I’m not real certain how low to go.
I was going to try H&R springs, which I’ve used before on other cars.
Then I read all the positive reviews for Feal in this forum and decided to give them a try.
They are height and dampening adjustable.
I’ll be putting them (along with adjustable drop links, adjustable rear toe links(track bars), and new control arm links) on Sept 7th.
That is the next time that I have 2 consecutive days off.
Install on Friday and align with my camber & toe gauges.
Then have Saturday to go get computerized alignment if necessary.
I sold my spare car (BMW 135i) in May.
I knew I should have kept it so I could drive it while I stalling my Feal coilovers.
I’m waiting for money to clear PayPal from some guitar equipment I just sold. Still not sure what I’m going to do. I like using coilovers but have had bad experiences with cheap ones that I put on my mustang, don’t want to make the same mistake with the Porsche. I’ve found the Koni sports with eibach springs for $1100. I like that price because I can spend the difference on replacing my sagging engine mounts and possibly sway bars or some cosmetic fixes. There seems to be more coilovers for sale on here for c4’s and turbo’s, will they fit a c2?
I love my ohlins R&T with very moderate drop (3/4 inch). Even if I do not track my car anymore since I have my 944 track toy.
I still change the settings on the shocks from time to time depending on the drive I do. Even in the more stiffer range they feel very smooth and compliant.
I use my 996.2 C2 as a daily driver. And have powerflex purple bushings all around in my suspension. Also consider to upgrade these suspension parts over time as all of the rubbers and bushings will need some care after all these years.
Definitely worth the $ and if you do some spirited driving now and then it is one of the best upgrades you can do on your car. After all your shocks and springs together with the other suspension parts are what makes your car follow the road.
Over the last 2.5yrs/30k miles I also noticed a more even and gradual tire wear on track and on the road.
In the same boat with a C4s, the ROW for this car doesn�t seem like good value. Still have a bit left to do on the cooling system refresh then doing a full brake refresh then turning to the suspension which does not feel tired but at 15yr and a 100k in likely needs to be redone. Leaning toward Ceika of Feal � would love to hear more from those that have done the same.
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