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YOUR RESEARCHbody color in a rattle can?
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trying
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However, I find that the big issue is trying to get metallic paints looking good.
Leading evidence: 'trying' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'trying' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Install front lip, and i am now contemplating painting it' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Install front lip, and i am now contemplating painting it
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I installed a front lip, and i am now contemplating painting it.
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Once the clear coats are done, I used an 800 paper, followed by 1000 and finished with 2000 to level-out the finish and then used a heavy cut polish followed by a fine cut polish and finished with a glaze.
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I've used Automotive Touchup paints on all my cars.
Use automotive touchup, was matching atlas grey metallic
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I too used Automotive Touchup, was matching Atlas Grey Metallic
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Once the clear coats are done, I used an 800 paper, followed by 1000 and finished with 2000 to level-out the finish and then used a heavy cut polish followed by a fine cut polish and finished with a glaze.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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anybody know where i can get factory color paint in a rattle can? all i can find are small touch-up bottles
I installed a front lip, and i am now contemplating painting it. (Arctic Silver)
I like the contrast of the black lip on the arctic silver color, but i have factory side skirts and they are body color, so maybe the front lip should be body color also to make things uniform
the prices i've seen to have the front bumper painted are ridiculous, so i'm thinking i may be able to save a buck and paint the lip myself next time i remove the bumper for radiator cleaning
I did mine last year. Cup car splitter, it is very flexible material.
It looked good when I first did it.
It now looks horrible.
Paint is all cracked and looks like black is bleeding through.
I must have used wrong primer ???
I don't know for sure, any input would help.
NAPA just tried to pull a fast one on me yesterday...Really pissed me off! Broke the O-ring retaining clip off of my injector and then told me all was good to go.
Bunch of DONKEYS work there.
When painting Urethane, you have to use "flex agent"... If the paint they mixed for you didn't include flex agent it'll crack/craze if used on a flexible base material... As long as the color was right, have them mix you another can with the flex agent in it, strip the cracked stuff and re-paint it.
I've used paintscratch.com and have been happy with it.
I've heard this about Napa stores, but the ones in NJ I called don't seem to have this. Do you know if they can color match by scanning without a color code? Also would be interested if they have single stage paint (for an older vintage car).
automotivetouchup rattle cans are great....color matches real good. However, I find that the big issue is trying to get metallic paints looking good. I tried painting some bumper trim on my daughters car and was Real hard to make it uniform looking. You can tell it was rattle canned but it was a small part so I didn't worry about it and it looked a lot better than before. Non metallic on the other hand are easy to make look great.
my napa has a camera that can get close. Last time we did some cards to dial it in. They can make colors in many different paints so maybe on the single stage.
also napas r individually owned not company stores so sometimes u can get a bad one. My lical guys r pretty good but being a car guy i usually know more then most guys at any counter.
I've been painting plastic models for over 50 years and I can tell you that metallic paints are always very hard to apply, even by experts in auto paint shops. Getting the metallic substance inside of it to come out evenly is quite a task. When I paint small items I use Tamiya spray cans. They put metallic paint on the smoothest and easiest of any brand I've ever used. And I've pretty much used them
www.paintscratch.com
has a kit that includes all you need to spray non-metal pieces and can supply paint based on your paint code, or if you are willing to send along a trim piece (such as a gas tank door), they will hand match the color. I recommend ordering a 2nd can of paint if you are spraying a front spoiler. Also buy some 1000 and 2000 grit wet/dry paper to sand between coats. Once the clear coats are done, I used an 800 paper, followed by 1000 and finished with 2000 to level-out the finish and then used a heavy cut polish followed by a fine cut polish and finished with a glaze. to get a really good gloss finish. Above all else, take you time. BTW, My car is Seal Grey...
dporto
Thank you for info, I kinda thought that was the issue.
1) What to use for striping it?
2) Does the primer and clear have to have flex in them as well?
Yeah, this is a really great point....I was about to fix a scrape with clearcoat on one of our Mercedes bumpers cause it disappears when wet so figure a coat of clearcoat will do the same....but to the point made above I do need to get clearcoat with flex agent if its on a plastic bumper....correct?
I too used Automotive Touchup, was matching Atlas Grey Metallic
and turned out great. Its all on the prep and wet-sanding both after base and many coats of clear.
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