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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHelp on removing AC Compressor
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect but they are a bit hard
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Just the two fuel lines need to be disconnected but they are a bit hard to get to, but they do not interfere with getting the "back bolt" out of the A/C compressor...
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect but they are a bit hard' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect ac lines' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Dont forget to make shure the aluminum spacer is installed for the back bolt before you re-install the compressor, and I always use a magnet to hold the back bolt up, in order to clear the spacer and allow the compressor to be removed and or installed.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Went through the same thing when I replaced my engine.
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Suggestion · Original poster
First, the manual says to disconnect the electrical plug connection.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Just the two fuel lines need to be disconnected but they are a bit hard to get to, but they do not interfere with getting the "back bolt" out of the A/C compressor...
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Dont forget to make shure the aluminum spacer is installed for the back bolt before you re-install the compressor, and I always use a magnet to hold the back bolt up, in order to clear the spacer and allow the compressor to be removed and or installed.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Dont forget to make shure the aluminum spacer is installed for the back bolt before you re-install the compressor, and I always use a magnet to hold the back bolt up, in order to clear the spacer and allow the compressor to be removed and or installed.
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12 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T172408Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I finally had some success in trying to remove the AC Compressor on my 996, which the manual make sound so simple. The big challenge was getting at the rear mounting bolt, which is way back in there. I found that by removing the temperature sensor and grommet that fits between intakes 4 & 5 you get an almost straight shot at the bolt. Putting it back together may be just as challenging.
However I now need two more answers from those who have done this before.
First, the manual says to disconnect the electrical plug connection. Is this on the single wire that connects behind the pulley? And do you disconnect is at the plastic piece behind the pulley, or is there another connector I haven�t found yet?
Finally, there are two lines connected to a device mounted to the top rear of the compressor that at first looked like a receiver/dryer. The lines are too short to pull the compressor out of position. In looking at PET this device may be the �fuel cooler� which shows two lines connected to it, but the manual does not mention this device or the fines to it. If they are fuel lines I should be able to disconnect them with loosing the charge on the compressor (which is the whole point in removing the compressor after all). Anyone with any advice on this?
The answer to your first question is yes, it is the single wire for the a/c clutch. There is a single spade connector that should be zipped tied to the intake/fuel rail area, it will have a clear plastic cover over the connection point. Simply follow the wire from the pully (clutch) and you will find it.
Now is this a 996 N/A or turbo?? From how you described the back bolt for the compressor it sounds like a N/A car. If so, the cylinder you are talking is just a accumulator/reservoir, the reciever/dryer is located in the front trunk next to your battery! This car is not equpped with a fuel cooler, the TURBO is however, witch is probably what you were looking at in PET. What are the two lines you are talking about (a/c lines, High and Low psi) are they held in with allen bolts? There should only be two lines going to the A/C compressor! I belive the Power steering (upper) reservoir must be removed in order to remove your style of A/C compressor, due to the accumulator. Suck out the fluid, turn the lock, pops right out. Dont forget to make shure the aluminum spacer is installed for the back bolt before you re-install the compressor, and I always use a magnet to hold the back bolt up, in order to clear the spacer and allow the compressor to be removed and or installed. Is the system evacuated? Why are you removing the Compressor? Just curious
Porsche52 - 2000 C4 Cab, NA. Going to try to disconnect them and see what happens. I found the "fuel cooler" in my PET under 996 and 2000, so maybe non-turbos do have one. However, the manual does not say anything about removing or disconnecting it, so who know.
Hi. I am stuck on this step now....were they indeed fuel lines or did freon come gushing out? On my car they look like they tie directly into the compressor.
I have this same issue as this old post. Nowhere have I found a mention of this until this post. My 996 c2 cabriolet has it.
this issue and the 3rd bolt has been plaguing me for 3 months.
I am planning to disconnect this to remove AC. I need to get to 3rd tensioner bolt so I can complete the IMS bearing replacement.
Any new updates since this post.?
Can I remove them easily or is there something I should be on lookout for?
The "fuel cooler " Is only on the 2000 year model 3.4 engines...
Just the two fuel lines need to be disconnected but they are a bit hard to get to, but they do not interfere with getting the "back bolt" out of the A/C compressor...
Just follow all the other advice that is posted...
