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YOUR RESEARCHDIY Vinyl Car Wrappers: tell me more
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Clean surfaces and remove as much trim as you can
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Suggestion
Use only alcohal to clean surfaces and remove as much trim as you can for longer lasting edges and tucking.
Leading evidence: 'Clean surfaces and remove as much trim as you can' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean surfaces and remove as much trim as you can' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Recommend avery over 3m unless its a color only specific
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Suggestion
For vinyl brand I would recommend Avery over 3M unless its a color only specific to 3M.
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Suggestion
If you mess it up, then you have to replace the vinyl in that section.
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Suggestion
Use only alcohal to clean surfaces and remove as much trim as you can for longer lasting edges and tucking.
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I'd been toying with the idea of selling my 996 and getting a newer car - but of course I stupidly AXed the car last Sunday...and I'm firmly back in the "keep it 'til one of us dies" camp.
My paint...well, it looks like a car that was painted in 1998. Chips, pits, and even a couple of little dents.
I don't want to paint the car - I'm too cheap to put the money into a proper paint job, I don't want to apply a crappy paint job. So...vinyl wrap seems like maybe the ticket for protecting what's left as well as covering up the shameful bits.
If you've wrapped your car, tell me more. Best products? (3M, I'm assuming)? Best tips and tricks?
Thanks in advance...
Then he's in the area of a ****ty paint job price wise. I don't know how much it cost to wrap a car in your area but a full wrap job here from a pro can be close to $5000 (even more)
It is a very painful DIY process Dallas.
I've done this on my Acura many years ago. It was a mistake.
The stretching and heating the vinyl with heat gun to get it wrapped around curves is very difficult and takes ages if you are doing it alone. If you mess it up, then you have to replace the vinyl in that section. Cutting the vinyl and squeegeeing the car is also very time consuming and frustrating; trying to get a few air bubbles out with needle is also silly.
Worst thing that happened to me was that when I took the wrap off, most of the adhesive stayed on the car. I take it that massive AZ summer heat just melted it and adhesive was not designed for such extreme heat.
Yeah...more on that adhesive.
I'm a detailer and I've gotten asked to fix paint on cars that had vinyl wraps removed. For the most part l, it comes off pretty clean but in some cases it will leave the adhesive and this will cost you hundreds to properly remove. I recently did a BMW 7 series that had clear coat damage from whomever pulled off the vinyl.
Wow, does this sound like a horrible idea. I once put a mylar overlay on a pinball playfield. It came out OK, but it was basically a flat surface. I don't even want to think about what it would be like trying to do it to a Porsche without effing it up.
There's a guy on the 997 board who is almost done wrapping his cab. He mentioned he needed help on some of the trickier parts.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...inyl-wrap.html
My friend professionally installs this and believe you me, if you want it to look right you do not want to attempt this yourself. Training installers takes months of day in day out apprenticeship to get the skills required. Buy a POS roller of any car on cragslist for a couple hundred bones and then give it a try for a practice run and I think you'll see how difficult it is to do well.
Have you looked into plastidip? I just ordered a kit for $400. Supposedly you can do it in a weekend. I peeled the previous dip off in a couple days. It didn't seem to have any negative effect on the paint.
Or, or....you can always go big for $50 with Rustoleum paint job. This paint job is now coming up on 3 years.
It is just 99 C4, so probably won't affect the value much anyways. I suggest either the Rustoleum Firehydrant Red or Flaming Yellow
I'm getting a quote for paint correction, but I'm just going to keep f*****g it up. I like the idea of a wrap as much for the additional paint protection than as an aesthetic upgrade.
Frankly, there is NO other color that looks as good as a perfectly polished black car, but I am FAR too lazy to keep the paint looking that good...
Those of you who have ceramic coats: tell me more.
I'm no math whiz, but $50 worth of Rustoleum should add at least 20% to the value of my C4.
The Plastidip option is a no-go as far as I'm concerned. I'm just guessing that the first time you rip your track numbers off the side of the car, you also tear off your paint job. This is a serious concern for me now that I'm autocrossing regularly (once every five years).
I've plastidipped all my track cars and motorcycles , it's easy to do and change .
Problem I have with wraps and dips is the limited and often ott colour selection .
4K for a wrap ? Might as well put that towards painting it .
I diy painted my frount and rear bumpers , one fender, door handles and side skirts .
It came out excellent and I am only moderately experienced with a gun
4k for a wrap is just brutal! I wrap cars for a living and 4k sounds like a price I would charge for a full commercial sprinter van with printed images! For a car like ours I would charge anywhere from 1800-2200 depending on the color chosen but then again I am in Chicago, Cali market seems much different than ours.
If you do plan to DIY the best advice I could give is be very patient and take your time esp when making cuts. Don't cheap out on vinyl and make sure you have more than you need. Clean all edges and corners very well and clay bar is a must! Use only alcohal to clean surfaces and remove as much trim as you can for longer lasting edges and tucking.
For vinyl brand I would recommend Avery over 3M unless its a color only specific to 3M.
You can always feel free to pm with questions Ill be happy to help!
I'm planning to have my bumper cover corrected and re-painted and am wondering about the clear plasti dip as a protection. My thought is to have the bumper painted in December, keep it in my basement through the winter and then spray the clear plasti dip before I install the cover in the spring. I'm interested in experiences or comments regarding the plasti dip or my plan. I've thought about the films, but think the spray applied plati dip may be easier to DIY.
Thoughts?
TIA
