Does DOT4 fluid hurt clutch disk?

I just put in a new clutch, DM flywheel with the updated arm/throwout/pivot and new seals. Upon reassembly, I must have messed something up with the slave pushrod alignment, because I got a massive leak, and when I pulled the slave again to inspect, the pushrod had disappeared into the bell housing along with the boot and internal star washer. I fished out the washer with a magnet, but the pushrod and boot are nowhere to be found, so I'm dropping the transmission to clean up and try again. It dumped a bunch of fluid into the bell housing - enough that it is dripping out the bottom of the bell housing seam where it joins to the engine. I am assuming (but haven't actually seen) that fluid got on the clutch disk. I'll know shortly. I'm about to drop the transmission (I need to weld up an engine support bar tonight, so I can drop the transmission by itself rather than with the engine like I did last time), but want to have all parts on hand so I can R&R in one shot. I have a new clutch slave and some ATE fluid on the way. So my question: does the clutch fluid (DOT4 brake fluid) contaminate/damage a clutch disk such that it needs replacement? Or is it not an issue? Searching here on RL and Googling around hasn't given me any good info, but that may be a Google-fu failure on my part. Thanks in advance for any insight you can share.

According to my quick google-fu, yes you will need to replace the clutch disk. https://goo.gl/fbaquP It appears to affect the clutch material in a not good way.

It can cause slippage and degradation of the fibers if badly contaminated .

Did you press the pedal? If so, your slave cylinder likely exploded and needs to be replaced. I did the same thing. Quick tip - I found it was easier to put the transmission back in with the slave cylinder installed, then bleed it afterwards. As noted above, I did the same thing, and clutch fluid went everywhere. However, the clutch itself is pretty well covered inside of the pressure plate. It was all brand new. I replaced the slave cylinder, put it all back together, drove nicely the first 400 or so miles to properly break it in - and a year later it works perfectly fine. No ill effects, no slips, etc. Cheers Charlie

Thanks for the replies. Yup, charlieaf92 that is exactly what I did (pressed the pedal) and what happened (the slave self-disassembled). I am absolutely going to install the slave before installation of the transmission this time. The amount of room available to work on the slave once the transmission is installed is ridiculously small for my big mitts (even when I drop it down a tad by lowering the transmission mount). I have a slave cylinder on the bench, ready to install. Reading about your outcome gives me hope. Thank you. I guess I'll do the prudent thing and drop the transmission and do a visual inspection before buying more parts. If the gods of porschedom are with me, the brake/clutch fluid hit the clutch arm and pressure plate and deflected any fluid before it could hit the disk. What're the odds... Worst case I have to dump another couple of hundred bucks on a new disk, and wait around again for parts. It's the waiting that is a pain in the neck.

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Things often take me longer than expected, but just a follow up, when I removed the transmission and inspected the assembly, it didn't appear that any fluid got on the clutch disk. The placement of the internal parts (the clutch actuating arm and the solid part of the pressure plate)provides a pretty good "shield" avoiding a straight shot to the disk. I cleaned it with some brake cleaner anyhow, and reassembled everything. Putting the slave cylinder on while the transmission was out of the car was a MUCH easier way to do it, and it allowed me to make sure the piston was connecting the pivot arm in the right spot. The bugger of this job always seems to be aligning the input shaft and clutch. It would be easier with a second set of hands, but I managed it myself with a bunch of up and down from under the car and to the engine bay. Turning the nut on the crankshaft seems to do the trick, although still a pain. Oh, and using some suitable bolts as alignment pins is the other thing that helps a ton.

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Awesome - thanks for the update!

Looks like you already have it figured out, but I did the exact same thing, with all new pieces. I installed a new slave, and nothing else. Have driven the car 3000 miles, with 1500 of them being on the track with no issue,