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YOUR RESEARCHUsed Auto M96 into Manual M96 car
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From my research the factory replacement engines had the newest revisions of all the components but it depends on the year it was replaced and it it was "rebuilt", "refreshed" or "replaced".
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I guess the exact mechanism that caused the knock doesn't matter....engine has to come out and either be repaired or replaced which will be an expensive endeavor.
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I'm investigating used engines and found one from a 2004 Cabrio Tiptronic.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Used oil analysis posted above seemed to confirm a bearing problem to me.
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From my research the factory replacement engines had the newest revisions of all the components but it depends on the year it was replaced and it it was "rebuilt", "refreshed" or "replaced".
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I guess the exact mechanism that caused the knock doesn't matter....engine has to come out and either be repaired or replaced which will be an expensive endeavor.
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Suggestion
Rod bearings don't usually go on these engines, more likely to be a cylinder issue but that's rare too on the 99 model, I did an engine swap using an engine which came from an auto, there is no difference just the vac line mainly identical engines!!
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My 2003 Targa with 54K miles has developed a knocking noise that comes on around 2200 rpm. It sounds like a rod knock to me and the used oil analysis shows high values of iron, copper and lead which seems to confirm I've got a bearing problem. I'm investigating used engines and found one from a 2004 Cabrio Tiptronic. Is it a reasonable expectation that this engine will bolt into my car after installing the flywheel and clutch from my engine? My engine # is M96/0366309965 while the replacement engine # is M96/03AT66569089. Thanks in advance for any coaching you may provide.
It�ll work fine.
I could be off my rocker, but I think I remember reading that the AT code was for factory replacement engines. Anyone???
Found in another post: "AT" designates remanufactured or Austauschmotor
ltusler: Did you strip the auto engine down to the long block and install all the accessories off the manual transmission engine, including the wiring harness to ensure the ECU would play nice with the new long block?
Also, does anyone know if the factory rebuilt engine would include upgrades which would reduce the risk of the usual 996 engine issues?
Thanks in advance for all the help.
From my research the factory replacement engines had the newest revisions of all the components but it depends on the year it was replaced and it it was "rebuilt", "refreshed" or "replaced". Best to check the engine number & or paperwork.
Rod bearings don't usually go on these engines, more likely to be a cylinder issue but that's rare too on the 99 model, I did an engine swap using an engine which came from an auto, there is no difference just the vac line mainly identical engines!!
I can confirm. When I got my new to me motor, it was an AT motor. It was all upgraded with many part numbers starting with 997, including the "better" non replaceable IMS bearing.
If it was truly from an automatic, you will need to plug the one vacuum line, since it would not be plugged. For the extra electrical plug, there's actually a little thing that it mounts to.
Both of these connections are to the right of the starter, behind the AOS if looking from the trans to the rear bumper.
Ahmet: I found copper colored "flakes" and small copper bits in cut open oil filter can (spin on) and a couple flakes on sump plate as well. Used oil analysis posted above seemed to confirm a bearing problem to me. The noise from the engine is significant at first start up which is like a tensioner (all 3 are new in last 3K miles). Once initial oil pressure established engine is quiet and sounds great. Once warm at about 2200 rpm the noise starts which seems to be at the frequency of 1 cylinder to me. Initially I thought it was a bad lifter. At about 2800 rpm I really started noticing the noise which prompted me to inspect the cut open filter, test the oil and inspect the sump. I removed the drive belt and the noise is the same. I would sure be exited to hear any alternative theories to of my conclusion... Thanks in advance
Hey I don't have any alternative theories. From my experience, con rods bearings are one of the more common internal engine failures in all types of piston engines. They're a universal "wear" item across everything, in my opinion. I was replying to the gentleman who didn't feel it was "common" on 996s. I suppose it doesn't get as much air time as the IMS, but I think most internal failures are misdiagnosed (or not diagnosed at all and blamed on) an IMS at this point. Your issue does indeed sound like a con rod bearing problem, unfortunately. How's the oil pressure at warm idle with a 0 or 5w weight oil?
Ahmet: I've always kept my eye on the oil pressure and I can't remember seeing it lower than 2 bar even at idle w/0W40 Mobil 1. Usually at 3K+ rpm it is at least 3 bar. This is why I'm wondering if perhaps it was a flow starvation issue as apposed to pressure related problem. I guess the exact mechanism that caused the knock doesn't matter....engine has to come out and either be repaired or replaced which will be an expensive endeavor.
Looking at your copper (148) and Lead (147), they are very, very high, and agreed that you have some kind of issue going on and the engine needs to come out. Sorry to hear.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
