42 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHIs this rattle normal?
Reported or suspected cause
he's diagnosing a problem over the phone
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
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Reported cause
Only problem is he's diagnosing a problem over the phone and from a long way away.
Leading evidence: 'he's diagnosing a problem over the phone' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'he's diagnosing a problem over the phone' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check accessory drives' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I want to say it's been there since I've had the car (which isn't long)...I've changed the IMSB ~500 mi ago to be safe, it's very quiet and you can't hear it with the doors open when applying throttle.
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
If one edge (or both!) is sharp this is a sign the belt is not tracking true and often this is due to an accessory drive with too much bearing play.
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Suggestion
You'll have to check the accessory drives for excessive play and carefully check the water pump for any signs of coolant leak.
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Suggestion
For John McAfee and many others, "blow" is followed by hours of manic vacuuming, disassembling the television, and checking the windows repeatedly for cops.
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Suggestion
The best way I've found it is to disconnect the AOS, and determine which cylinder you believe is making the sound (disable injectors till the note changes), then using lab scope with a coil pick up on one channel, place a pressure transducer in the place of the oil cap (modified oil cap) for another channel.
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Suggestion
The best way I've found it is to disconnect the AOS, and determine which cylinder you believe is making the sound (disable injectors till the note changes), then using lab scope with a coil pick up on one channel, place a pressure transducer in the place of the oil cap (modified oil cap) for another channel.
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Suggestion
They trick you into killing yourself to build a car to get some notoriety, then you provide all their content, only to have the rules change 30 minutes before the filming.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I want to say it's been there since I've had the car (which isn't long)...I've changed the IMSB ~500 mi ago to be safe, it's very quiet and you can't hear it with the doors open when applying throttle.
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Suggestion
It's also been well documented that many of these motors have run/driven for many, many miles with tapping sounds much worse than yours...(this is not an endorsement for doing nothing - just a fact)...Good Luck
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42 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T022239Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
VID 20160608 120531 - YouTube
I want to say it's been there since I've had the car (which isn't long)...I've changed the IMSB ~500 mi ago to be safe, it's very quiet and you can't hear it with the doors open when applying throttle. Put my phone underneath the exhaust, mic facing up. The video definitely makes it seem a bit louder than it really is.
defo tickaticka sound going on there. The same as mine but mine goes after 2 seconds. I don't know anything about the inside of an engine but I believed that sound to be either a chain slap or lifter sound. What ever the hell those are lol.
Define classic? I'd assume compression wouldn't be perfect, the car's got over 100k on the clock. It's bound to have lost some horses. I'm not really sure how you'd be able to tell that from the starter though.
I think what Jake meant is that he could hear the "tap" while the starter was still turning/engaged. To him, this is a classic sign of low compression in 1 cylinder (he probably knows which one as well). While I'm sure you're not happy about hearing this, there's a high probability that he's either correct or extremely close in his diagnosis - even given the limited nature of the audio clip (he's heard and developed parts for and rebuilt hundreds if not thousands of these engines). The good news is that based on the (limited) audio clip the imsb seems to be ok
It's also been well documented that many of these motors have run/driven for many, many miles with tapping sounds much worse than yours...(this is not an endorsement for doing nothing - just a fact)...Good Luck
Are you positive it's coming from the engine? I saw a Wheeler Dealers where they bought a Boxster and a similar rattle was coming from a loose/corroded pan that protected part of the exhaust. Get under it and start tapping with a rubber mallet.
First thing I did. There is an ever-so-slight slight rattle on my right muffler, but I don't think it's that considering the rattle speeds up/slows down uniformly with rpm. Or am I wrong?
OP, that tap is not normal - I agree with others that it might bear checking out.
mharrison, you are incorrect. If you lived in Hawaii, I could cut you some slack, but Mississippi?
Perform the proper diagnostics. I start this by a simple "poor man's compression test".
Pull the fuel pump relay, so the engine will not start.. Turn the engine over for 5-7 seconds and post that video. I'll tell you how many cylinders you have low compression on; from watching that video. Post it here.
I am not concerned with the sound right now, the video will confirm my suspicions.
The car is relatively new to me and I have no idea where the fuel pump relay is...on Tuesday I'm bringing the car to my indy to install the gbox 2nd gear detent. I could ask him to run a compression test. I know you are extremely knowledgeable with these cars, but is it possible that whatever audio cue you're hearing is skewed/echoed since my phone was literally sitting directly under the engine inside a relatively enclosed environment? The car genuinely does not feel significantly down on power.
If you had any idea about the rattle/chip though, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your help!
The compression test will probably come out fine... BUT if he conducts a running compression test, the issue will probably show up.
Its very difficult to get any sort of solid compression figures from these engines using conventional methods.
I heard the classic "up and down" beat while it was on the starter. The audio sampling won't mess with that.
Best of luck.
Jake this up down beat your hearing do you mean the starter sort of going slow fast slow fast, slower with a higher compression cylinder then higher where it's easier for the starter on a lower compression cylinder, just curious as I want to train my ear for it if poss!!
FYI, the fuel pump relay is basically like a fuse. Figure 2 of this article shows where it is. But obviously you are just pulling it, not "jumpering" it.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Fuel_Pump.htm
You have the best M96 engine builder in the country willing to troubleshoot your engine for free. Not sure why you wouldn't just pull the relay and post the video. You can lead a horse to water....
I'm little late to the party, so to speak, but I hear a faint chirping sound, which in one case with my 996 Turbo was a bad idler/tensioner roller bearing. I had all replaced. (This is the 2nd time, too. The first time a bearing was making a "dry bearing" sound, so the things can fail and at least in my experience generate different noises.)
A "test" one can do if the noise is present at cold start is to remove the serpentine belt -- but not before carefully noting its routing and direction of rotation (take a pic! or sketch a diagram!) -- and start the engine. If the noise is gone then install the belt and start the engine and confirm the noise is back again.
As an aside, check the belt. If one edge (or both!) is sharp this is a sign the belt is not tracking true and often this is due to an accessory drive with too much bearing play. Most often this is the water pump. You'll have to check the accessory drives for excessive play and carefully check the water pump for any signs of coolant leak.
If the noise is still present with the belt removed then the odds are the noise is coming from the engine, although of course, the noise could be a loose plug, an exhaust leak, to name two possible causes. Noises can be tricky to diagnose their source even when one is at the car.
I can't comment on the observation JR made regarding the suspected low compression cylinder other than I do hear an uneven beat -- best way I can describe it -- as the engine is being turned by the starter and before the engine begins to run.
We finally agree on something. You hear it too.
I listen to every engine that I come into contact while its on the starter.. Even in parking lots when walking by random cars as they start, or every time I start one of mine. That comes from years of driving worn out aircooled VWs and Porsches that would start to show signs of needing a valve adjustment when they had uneven compression while on the starter. It comes in handy these days, I can hear a bad cylinder from my office, on the second floor of my facility in most instances.
"Jake; The 996 Whisperer", someone should pitch this to producers and get a reality show in the works. 100% sure it would be my favorite RS. Not that I watch any of them now.
No way. I've been part of a few TV shows, the worst was on Speed channel in 2007. Any time someone calls from any of those shows, I tell them to get lost. We don't have time for that crap.
The most disorganized thing I've ever been a part of was a TV show. They trick you into killing yourself to build a car to get some notoriety, then you provide all their content, only to have the rules change 30 minutes before the filming. I'm lucky I didn't go to jail the last time.
I don't even watch TV, maybe 10 minutes per week, and thats just to see what the weather is supposed to be.... They can't get that right, either.
Only problem is he's diagnosing a problem over the phone and from a long way away.
That's like talking to your doctor over the phone and asking him: "do you see anything wrong with this blotch on my chest?"
If you're concerned, bring the car to someone that knows what they're doing.
There is local car program here in Seattle on Sat. mornings. The guy, Tom Turner, is always saying: "when asked what do you suppose that is?" and Tom always replies: "hold the car up to the phone so I can see it".
Now Jake is perhaps one of the best there is. But, still, come on, get it looked at by someone who can actually perform the proper tests on it.
Well, I dare say there are a number of things we agree on. I'd even go so far to offer that if we compared notes in detail there are far more things we agree on that we disagree on. It is just the things we do not agree on tend to get more attention/notice.
Hearing is a very important sense to helping one come to a reasonable and accurate opinion of a car engine. I much prefer to whenever possible be at the car and hear (and see, observe) for myself. Obviously this isn't possible except in very rare cases.
I agree, if he can find that person, in his area, that understands the traits of these particular engines.
At peak I've seen 1400 techs per year, in my classes. The majority of them know less about these engines than the members of this forum does. Some of those come from shops with huge names.
The best was from a shop thats well regarded, and he didn't know the 4 strokes of a 4 stroke engine in the proper order.
A standard leak down and compression test won't show this unless it is well advanced in the failure mode, which I do not believe is the case.
The best way I've found it is to disconnect the AOS, and determine which cylinder you believe is making the sound (disable injectors till the note changes), then using lab scope with a coil pick up on one channel, place a pressure transducer in the place of the oil cap (modified oil cap) for another channel. If the wave forms for the coil firing align with the positive pressure thats sensed by the pressure transducer, you have a bad cylinder. If you have twice as many waveforms as cylinder plots, then you have two bad cylinders, and so on.
Read that technique anywhere else... You won't.
I think suck comes before bang and blow, but that 's still only 3...On a related note, there used to be a bar by that name in Myrtle Beach...But I digress...mmm, what's a witty euphemism for compression
"Suck" and "squeeze" aren't generally that hard to keep straight, but some people just can't handle "bang" coming before "blow."
Those of us dessert-first people have no such hangup.
For John McAfee and many others, "blow" is followed by hours of manic vacuuming, disassembling the television, and checking the windows repeatedly for cops.
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