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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHLeak from bolts on engine
Leading reported evidence
Clean apply the sealant liberally and torque
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Once the surfaces are cleaned apply the sealant liberally and torque to 10 Nm.
Leading evidence: 'Clean apply the sealant liberally and torque' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean apply the sealant liberally and torque' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Remove the bolt and clean the oil using solvent, preferably chased with compressed air to remove the oily residue.
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Suggestion
If the sealant on the flange lets oil pass, then thread sealant won't change a thing.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Im hoping I just need to change the two O-rings on the end of that port.
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Suggestion
If the fluid is coming from the flange its sealant has failed and you'd need to split the engine case to reseal the flange.
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Hi All
Noticed some oil leaks coming from the rear area of the engine and was wondering if you can help me fix them:
Seems to be leaking from some of the bolts that hold the engine case together?
I took it to a shop and they tried to put some RTV under the head of the bolts to help stop the oil leaks but its not really worked. I was thinking to remove the bolts fully and applying some kind of sealer to the threads and then insert them back in. Has anyone had this issue before and would this method work? What is the tightening torque for these bolts and should I but brand new bolts to do this?
The second photo shows some of the bolts behind the Oil Pump Housing on the back of the engine (rear of car) which they tried to put some rtv on aswell but those seem to be less leaky than the ones in the first photo
Thanks for your help in advance
If those bolt holes/threads are open to the oil galleys thread sealer could/should help, but may not totally stop the leak because of the presence of oil. Those bolts should have been thread sealed (or micro encapsulated bolts used) when the case halves were dry. Good luck
I thought this too but the two bolts in the first photo do not have a void above them, just the engine casting or the oil pump housing so couldnt work out how the leak would travel to them. Maybe I could try some dye in the oil and try and trace it that way
Could it be that the sealer on the threads from factory have started to fail then?
Do you have a recommendation for a thread sealer that would be suitable for this?
Where can I find the torque spec for these bolts? Had a search around and couldnt find info on these exact bolts. A youtube video mentioned 14nm for the ones on the case?
Appreciate the help
The two case halves have a flange around the perimeter with bolt holes in them. The sealant covers the whole flange, all around each hole or at least between inner edge of flange and bolt hole. Thereby no oil will leak from a bolt itself, irrespective of it having a sealant on the threads.
If the sealant on the flange lets oil pass, then thread sealant won't change a thing.
If the fluid is coming from the flange its sealant has failed and you'd need to split the engine case to reseal the flange.
How is the coolant level? If it�s slowly dropping, see if you can use a flashlight to see the top of the engine�.. I had an oring go bad on the cooler on top of the engine that left coolant drips under the car, which I thought was oil�. But it wasn�t�.
-Eric
04 996
Thanks all for the replies
It is oil and yes it's pretty fresh so its really clean
Can someone point me to where I can find the torque settings for these bolts? I can make sure I tightens them correctly if I do try out the thread sealer
Loctite 656 or 567 is a go to for us when sealing bolts. Remove the bolt and clean the oil using solvent, preferably chased with compressed air to remove the oily residue.
Once the surfaces are cleaned apply the sealant liberally and torque to 10 Nm. Allow to cure for 4-6 hours then see what happens.
U should also buy the LN-E book as it has most if the critical torque values. The only thing that would make it better is if it was im a ring binder
@LN-FSI
. I use it so much the pages r falling out.
https://lnengineering.com/996-torque...utomobile.html
That's great news.. The dirtier and the more finger prints on the book, the better. Hard to believe that Jake completed this 10 years ago at this point. Get some pics of it being well used for all this time, with pages falling out and I'll see if we can get you a replacement.
Thank you so much!
I couldnt find Loctite 656 either. Did you mean 565? as I can find that one. Is there a difference between that and 567?
10nm! So not that tight then?
Appreciate your help on this, Thanks!
Hi all, still chasing this leak. Upon further inspection I think its actually coming from where the Oil pump housing connects to the engine on the back. I think its the cylinder port from the housing which goes into a hole on the end of the engine where the hex key is. The previous garage the car was at to inspect this leak decided to just slap some RTV up into the gap where this area connects to the engine block. I peeled it off and saw it was wet around there
Borrowed a pic from ebay, circled in red my assumption:
Does anyone know if this housing can be removed while the engine is still in the car? I was thinking to attempt this myself. Will I need to drop all the oil and also the coolant? Im hoping I just need to change the two O-rings on the end of that port.
Has anyone had any experience with a similar issue?
Appreciate everyones help, Thanks
U should remove the tensioners because they will pull on the ims shaft which drives that oil pump. It wont line up during assembly if there is tension on it.
How far will I need to disassemble? Exhaust, engine brace, rear engine mounts?
The chain tensioners? Are these straight forward to remove and re install or do they have a special way of removing and fitting? Do I need a special tool?
Oh okay, does this extrusion on the oil pump housing tend to crack then? Could this be the reason for the leak?
Will I need to drop all the coolant and all the oil too?
Thanks all!
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