20 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHFuel Line Fitting/Coupler Leak
Leading reported evidence
Check fumes while
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
( Not sure how tight this is supposed to be, I went until it felt right then checked for fumes while running)
Leading evidence: 'Check fumes while' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check fumes while' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
-disconnect electric connector on unit and remove wires from guide.
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Suggestion · Original poster
-Disconnect electric plug from top of sending unit by squeezing metal tabs.
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Suggestion · Original poster
-Lift up old pump carefully feeling for any tension, disconnect fuel lines paying attention to how they are routed in the tank, drain pump into tank gently shaking and tilting side to side to remove most of the remaining fuel.
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Suggestion · Original poster
-Lift up old pump carefully feeling for any tension, disconnect fuel lines paying attention to how they are routed in the tank, drain pump into tank gently shaking and tilting side to side to remove most of the remaining fuel.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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2003 C4S
Had a strong fuel smell in the cabin, pulled the access cover to see top of fuel tank and saw puddled fuel. Started car and saw spraying out of the bottom of the pressure line at 2 o'clock in the photo. If I push down on this fitting I can move it down toward the tank 1/4" or so at which point if I hold it there the leaking stops or at least reduces greatly. There are also numerous hairline cracks in the sending unit. Did hours of forum searches and it seems rare that the coupler itself is the problem, more often it is the sending unit. My question is should this coupling have that much play? Is this possibly just a bad sending unit or does it seem more likely it is a bad connector? Thanks in advance.
Anybody willing to pop those 4 nut of their access panel and see if their fitting has that much up and down play? Mine's a C4 not sure if accessing it on a C2 is more difficult? Just trying to get more info before I order unneeded parts.
Thanks
I have not tried the porsche fuel system but every other quick disco i have worked on has about a 1/4" of play. Im pretty sure there is a replacable o-ring or clip in there that will solve your issue.
I think Bill is right. Pinch that hose connector and pull up. I'll bet you will find an O-ring. A little trip to the hardware store for a new O-ring might just fix you right up.
Sorry about the delay in responding had a dog emergency over ht e last 24 hours. There is a tiny o ring but it will be a little tricky to pull out of there as the whole thing is facing downward and there's not a lot of play in the hose/fitting to get it to point towards you. Because there seemed to be a lot of threads regarding cracked and leaking sending units I ordered one from OEM Exotic auto for $199 along with the seal. As mine was cracked I figured I might as well order a new one even if it turns out not to be the problem. I'm guessing there are threads regarding replacement and that it has to be way easier than the AOS I had to do on this car. As far as I know this year doesn't have a return line but the vent line seems to have the same type of connector and I was especially airheaded that day and didn't think to check that one until yesterday. Yes it does seem to have the same amount of play. I will definitely try the a new oring if the sending unit doesn't solve the problem, is there a material that will work better than others in contact with gasoline? If neither work I guess it is buying this fuel line 996-201-261-05, lowering the tank a bit and trying to snake it through. There was a thread somewhere regarding someone having to do this and now I'm wondering if they tried replacing the oring first? Thanks for the replies I will definitely report back with the first results.
I replaced my pump last summer .It is not too bad a job Hopefully you don't have a full tank because it needs to be empty .The hardest part is the new seal takes a bit of trial and error to get a technique .On the oring I don't think I would go the hardware store route .As a last resort I think you can find a similar fitting and use that oring .
Any update on this? Was the fuel smell apparent when the frunk was open? I'm getting a fuel smell in the cabin after the car warms up, but I popped the frunk lid and there was no smell there.
Part arrived today, will try to get it in tomorrow. I don't remember the smell being overwhelming in the frunk, very noticeable in the cabin though. That part number 99620126103 maybe has been replaced by 99620126105. Hopefully the sending unit will fix it we'll see. Right now I'm dealing with a broken water pump bolt in my Audi, fingers crossed or this one is on it's way to the junkyard...
So I just went out and put in the new sending unit and Voila! no leak, no spray, all good. Took 15 minutes tops to swap out. As I was putting the access cover back on I could hear what sounded like draining in the tank, then it took a little bit of cranking for it to startup the second time, I'm guessing this will go away as air gets out of the system. Looking at it it seemed like it had to have been the connection but it wasn't. Thanks for all the help.
Glad it fixed your problem. I haven't checked mine yet. Is there a DIY for that job? I tightened up a fuel line connector in the engine compartment but I'm not sure if that was the problem. I'll have to drive some more tomorrow to be sure.
Mine is a C4 so I'm not sure how different it is, maybe one of the C2 guys can chime in.
-Fire extinguisher ready and nearby
-I unhooked the battery and covered it to avoid any sparks.
-Mark orientation of unit
-Disconnect electric plug from top of sending unit by squeezing metal tabs.
-Disconnect pressure and return lines by pushing on tab and pulling
-Unscrew retaining ring by carefully tapping large flathead with hammer counter-clockwise. ( Brass Punch would have been better here to avoid sparks if it were to miss and hit metal somehow)
-Lift up old pump carefully feeling for any tension, disconnect fuel lines paying attention to how they are routed in the tank, drain pump into tank gently shaking and tilting side to side to remove most of the remaining fuel.
-disconnect electric connector on unit and remove wires from guide.
-Remove unit and old tank seal if you bought a new one.
-Seat new seal in tank opening
-remove covers from new sending unit fittings and slide unit slightly into tank.
-Route wires into guides and connect plug, connect both hoses to unit being careful to make sure they are not interfering with fuel level float.
-Seat unit into seal matching original orientation
-Hand tighten plastic ring then tap with hammer and punch until tight. ( Not sure how tight this is supposed to be, I went until it felt right then checked for fumes while running)
-Attach electric connector and both fuel lines. Start car and check for leaks.
- Drink still full beer as you realize this went way to easy, start to worry
Honestly this was about as easy a job as I've ever done on a car, a nice change from the Air Oil Separator I had to do on this thing.
How was the seating the new rubber gasket on the install? I've had to mess with similar setups on BMW motorcycles, and they were a bear. Installation required finesse, patience and rubber lubricant (Napa RuGlyde).
