UAOS install/tips/tricks

This thread will be for instillation instructions/tips/tricks for the UAOS to help make the process go smoother. The instructions should probably be in three skill levels Novice, Competent, and Expert. The Novice level should include safety precautions and basic instructions like counterclockwise to loosen ect and will be the most lengthy . Expert level is just an overview of the procedure with key instructions for out of the ordinary tasks and nuances. Install the pre-sealed "Lifetime" AOS provided in the UAOS kit as described here https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...%20replacement or here https://redirect.viglink.com/?format..._Separator.htm Then proceed to install the UAOS below. Note : there will be be some over-lapping procedures depending on which route you go. Remove air cleaner Loosen the retainers for the 02 sensors Support the engine Remove the 2 nuts on the motor mounts Lower the engine onto the crossmember Remove the grey c-clip on the Brake Booster hose Press down on the inner sleeve while pulling up on the Brake Booster hose Remove the 2 screws for the Brake Booster fitting from the intake Remove the AOS hose by squeezing the retainer ring and pulling Cut the insulation bundling from the AOS hose and other hoses Unplug the changeover valve and lay aside ( it and the bracket will be installed in opposite direction) Install UAOS in place and connect both ends Install the Brake Booster fitting between the UAOS bracket in the intake Install the changeover valve and bracket facing the Throttle Body Secure the changeover valve bracket,UAOS bracket, and Power Brake Booster fitting with the longer 6mmx24mm Tamper Proof T27 screws provided Plug UAOS wiring harness into the EV1 engine harness Route the UAOS harness extension behind Accumulator and plug into the changeover valve Disconnect low coolant sensor and Plug UAOS harness into low coolant sensor and wiring harness Jack engine up and install 2 motor mount nuts. Secure wiring and hoses as necessary with zip ties, check routing Reinstall air cleaner

A very good article with pictures for installing the re-worked AOS for the UAOS kit on the 996.1 and 996.2 cars.. These instructions are written kinda on an Advanced Novice skill level. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Separator.htm

Very nice - Doc. I'll use this post as a place holder. I'll try to add some details from my perspective as it relates to an engine-out installation. A couple of things: those posi-taps are pretty good. I've used them for at least ten years now, they have been rally tested. Edit: didn't know it by name, but this is the changeover valve. I can post a photo of it as a part of its larger assembly.

Good stuff. My kit should be here soon but not sure if i will have time to get it installed before my track day. Unfortunately i may have to risk it. I know u have a bunch of pics showing the port u need to block on the aos but a write up on how to access it would be great. Btw mine is a y2k, 6sp.

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Quite honestly, on a 6MT, when I was in good health, I could have installed the UAOS Plug-and-Play kit in 30 min. The pre-sealed "lifetime" AOs comes with the UAOS kit. It's like telling someone how to thread a needle, just hold the needle in your left hand, thread on the right hand, insert the thread through the eye of the needle. ( A lot of people especially Millennials, have never threaded a needle)

Great info. I'll be able to start my install late next week. .2 tip with failed AOS so I don't think your 30 min job will apply to me But these instructions are giving me more confidence. Have lift bars so should be able to work under the car fairly easily. Are there any "while you are in there" parts that should be replaced?

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Yep, replacing the AOS on a .2 is harder than a .1 , and a Tip is harder than a 6MT, so you get a double whammy !! The .1 6MT being the easiest . The key to an efficient and non-intrusive procedure is to disturb as little as possible, That said I started to include the URO aluminum aos heater hose connector to the UAOS kit due to it being a good "while your in there" thing to due and because someone can break that off if they still have the original oem plastic one. But I decided not to include it or have as an option to complicate things, drive up the price, and a lot of people already have this addressed. So if you have the OEM plastic connector, then get the URO aluminum one and install "while doing the UAOS". It can be done quickly without draining the cooling system if you use two clamps above and below the connector.

Not to clutter up my first post, but I spent time looking at my new (URO brand) AOS. I was able to spot the tiny port inside the channel. It's very difficult to see, even when the part is in your hands. I capped off all large ports but one. The circled area is where you want to focus your attention. After putting some soapy water in that channel and applying light air pressure, I was able to spot bubbles from a specific area. You have to do some gymnastics to get a glimpse of the mini-port. I filled that little channel with some silicone sealer and again applied a little air pressure to make it obvious where you need to seal. Note the little crater where air pushed through (middle of the silicone). I closed it off with more sealer and will give it a full day to cure. I'll test again tomorrow to confirm the external mini-port is also open to the same chamber. For what it's worth, there must be a diaphragm inside the circular cover with one side open to the large ports and the opposite side open to the atmosphere. The atmospheric side of that diaphragm must have very little volume. I suspect sealing off the two mini-ports is effectively eliminating the functionality of that diaphragm. The secondary (downstream?) diaphragm must be taking up that task with this redesign. The inventor can correct me, if this is an incorrect assumption. So it should be fairly simple to seal off these two mini-ports, as Skip has pointed out. Knowing exactly where they are located is just good peace of mind.

Ok i understand. I was able to get the car on the 4 post today and get a good look at the aos. I will need to test it before i install your kit. UPS says it will be here tomor. Is there a way to test the old aol in the car to verify that i sealed it correctly? If not no big deal ill just use a bunch of silicon. Edit So i looked at your 1st post in the other thread again. I get the knotch with the yellow arrow but the seem that the red arrow is pointing to, do u just seal about an inch where the arrow is or all the way around. Im sure its gonna be pretty easy for me to do, but i dont have one in my hand and i dont plan on removing the one in the car. So its hard for me ro verify what i am suppose to do.

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What's a needle?

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It is possible to test to see if the Atmosphere port is properly sealed before installing the UAOS by testing with a manometer, it will show BAD, with very high crankcase vacuum, indicating the regulator is disabled . That's a tool us old timers use to use to put a button back on our favorite shirt (before the throw away society )

Oh. This is the only needle I use.

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I wish I still had my old vinyl, and turntable..

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I'm not familiar with that cartridge. I have a Ortofon.

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Is that a connector I can see before disassembly? If not I'll order one just in case.

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Would there be any other way to tie this in, such as a point where that loom plugs into something else? I know people will think I'm being silly but I'm reluctant to use tap connectors of any kind.

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Not silly, that was my preference as well and my first idea . But the proper connectors can not be found. This is the best way... I know the perception is that tap connectors are less robust than conventional plug in connectors, but the reality is the posi-taps will have less resistance than installing two conventional plug in connectors. The only benefit of having plug in connectosr here would be to eliminate the chance of someone hooking up wrong..

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location of AOS heater hose connector Aluminum URO AOS heater hose connector

Thnaks. Don't let it go to your head, but you are good!

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That's just a picture stolen from the internet. I do have two Micro Acoustics cartridges, though I don't recall the model numbers. I have an old Philips 312 turntable and close to 1000 vinyl records. It was a big part of my life when in high school and college. I don't have the free time I did when younger, but I still have music playing nearly all the time. MP3 players are so damn convenient. I keep 1500 - 2000 of my favorites songs on constant rotation, pretty much no matter where I am and what I'm doing. Stock internet photo of a 312...

Nothing like a good drift!

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Thanks man, it won't go to my head, I need the support. I'm Glad you asked about "while you're in there's". It gave me a chance to mention the AOS plastic heater hose breaking. I have nightmares thinking of all the ways someone can screw up a UAOS install. Have you seen the PCA video of the IDE plenum install? That's exactly what happened, the car had an old brittle plastic connector and while the (professional) Tech was installing the IDE plenum, he bumped the connector and it broke clean off and hot coolant shot straight up six foot....lol...( the connector isn't included with the IDE plenum either).. The install is easy and simple and as Plug-N-Play as possible, but I'm still sure I will get plenty of questions and overthinking the process/screwing something up.

Sorry for the previous hijack. Back on task, I confirmed the tab is also a leak path. Just as instructed, the sealant should run for about half an inch on either side of the tab.

Well brown santa dropped mine off today. In was hoping to have it in this weekend but my work truck just ate the rear limited slip carrier. I guess 365k miles at 650hp/1200tq is about the limit of an AAM 14bolt axle. Luckily the gears are still good but like loosing an ims the metal has contaminated evrything, so 4-6hrs has to go to swapping all the bearings in the rear. Maybe mon or tues night ill get to it and take a few pics from the underside since its on the 4 post. I probably sould get it done before my DE day next friday.

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Thanks for the nice pics Scott !!! That will help a lot of people understand what/where the Atmosphere port is. "Brown Santa" lol I like to see him/her sliding up in front of the house. Yes, pics from underneath will be a big help.. Thanks.

The service interval for the Carbon Fiber Accumulator is to be done at oil change service. Check/drain Acumulator using the easy access drain plug on the bottom left front. No tools necessary, finger tighten ONLY 1/4 turn (90*)

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I haven't had my car in the air to see how much of a pain this is going to be but I'm thinking ahead. What about a syringe with plastic tubing for the sealant? I'm thinking I could tape a piece of solid copper wire to the tubing and then I would be able to bend it to whatever shape I need. You would still have to figure a way to get in there to work the sealant around though. I would use my borescope with a tablet to see what I was doing. lol, I have a 2 12. Not sure of the difference. I always dug the soft touch controls. Actual photo of my 212...

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I'm not sure what the differences are either. I didn't even remember the 212 until I did a search on the 312. The soft touch is nice. It looks as though you have brush on your cartridge. I assume that's on a damper? I had something like that from Discwasher. Your idea of the tube with a wire support might work well. I'd practice a couple of times on something you can see. I'd also change footwear before doing that. Those slippers are a major fashion faux pas.

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LOL! My eyes went right to the shoes when I opened this pic.

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That looks like a pretty sophisticated/technical tool, if it works, will be almost as fun to use as wearing those shoes !!

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Early testing shows that I need smaller tubing or thicker gauge wire. Au contraire mes fr�res! That picture you are so quick to judge is lacking context . I co-host a small vintage BMW meet every year and these shoes will go with the decor for the Friday night event. You kind of would have to be here to see how the shoes and the BMW pennants really tie the party room together.

https://fanaticssport.com/product/car-custom-sneaker-3/?attribute_pa_size=us-12-eu-44&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI45ON4uKJ6AIViB-tBh0e3ggDEAQYCiABEgIKHvD_BwE These are the shoes you wear when working on a Porsche.

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great advice. The cheap factory connector will break eventually if you spend time around the TB. There�s a good reason an aluminum aftermarket part was developed.

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You Tube

Here are some additional tips for removal of the old AOS and installation of the UAOS. They are kind of random thoughts, so if it seems like I'm rambling...I am. I assume you already know to raise the car as high as you can (your back will thank you) and to lower the engine, I have two fully stocked tool boxes that I can choose from and here are the main tools that I used: You'll want a very small 1/4" wratchet. I use an old Snap-on ratchet. It is thinner than the Hazet, Craftsman, or Proto ones that I also own. I grabbed every extension that I owned, and used almost everyone. Once I found the perfect length to use for a specific task, I left it as-is. I taped the sockets and extension with electrical tape so they wouldn't come off and fall into the engine compartment...and IF they did, they would be less likely to fall somewhere bad. (i.e. into the engine) I also have some magnetic 10mm sockets. These are perfect for getting the second AOS bolt on the 996.2, or the #6 intake manifold bolt affectionately called "the bitch bolt." Once it was on the bolt, I could let go of the extension and it would normally stay in place. I'll have even more of these magnetic sockets next time I install an UAOS. I bought mine sometime ago off of Amazon and hadn't used them much before. Some cars may have torx bolts instead of 10mm hex bolts, so check you car first before buying the magnetic sockets. Also, don't forget you'll need a tamper proof torx for the brake booster fitting/UAOS Accumulator\changeover valve bracket. I have a set that I bought at Harbor Freight that I'd never used before...boy was I glad I had them! Have a magnetic tray available and when you finish removing the part, place all the bolts in a ziplock bag, grab a piece of paper, and write down what the bolts are for. If you end up doing the AOS over several days, or in my case, over a week, you WILL forget what bolts are for. Be prepared to replace extra items too. My oil filler tube broke probably because I was laying on the engine trying to connect one of the oil vapor lines to the UAOS. I put all of my removed parts (except for my skid plate) into a trashbag lined box in the front seat of my car. This way I didn't misplace any parts. I HATE hunting for parts. Unclip the fule injection wiring from the loom, and move it out of the way to get to the "bitch bolt." Remove the black plastic hose holder on the 996.2 coolant tank. I didn't do this while removing the intake and it tore up my arm reaching the intake bolts. When I saw that it could come out, re-installing the intake manifold distributor was MUCH more enjoyable. Cover the intake manifold holes with blue painters tape to keep anything (bolt, socket, etc) from falling into the head. I'm 5'7". (I used to be taller, but I'm shrinking with age now) I have a folding stool that I use when working on trucks. I used this when I needed to lay on the engine to reach the AOS. I also placed a box under the car. When I did knock something off the engine compartment and it fell to the ground, it fell in the box. I was able to grab the box and voila, there it was. I also used carpet squares under the car when I removed the only bolt I could get to from under the car. Take your time! Because of COVID-19, I had lots of spare time to tackle this. I wasn't driving anywhere, so after a full days work from home, I spent 30 minutes to an hour between work and supper. It wasn't tough work, and sometimes after dinner, I'd go back into the garage and work a little longer. When something got frustrating, I just quit for the day. Here's the ziplock bag with the leftover intake bolts: The bolts were replaced with longer ones. I had NO leftovers. Good Luck! Bruce

I also made my own hose clamp pliers years ago. I like the commercially made ones, but sometimes the else work better. buy cheap Dollar Tree pliers and cut a notch into them with a Dremel. I also have a vertically notched pair, but these work better. Also, Loctite on the nut will make these pliers usable. $1 specialty tool...can’t beat that!

...also I tag all the connectors when I remove them. The EVAP Purge Valve and the Changeover Valve use similar connectors. they might not reach each other, but why not just mark them all. I use a label maker, but masking tape works fine too.

So I've decided to take the easy way out when it comes to installing the UAOS. I'm just building the entire engine around it. I'll document each step, as I see appropriate. It will be spread over a few days and therefore a few posts. Even if you attempt to do this while the engine is in the car, you should still be able to get an idea how each component interacts and mounts with respect to its neighbors. This image shows where the AOS mounts at the rear of the engine. You'll want to apply a little lubricant to the multi-ribbed seal before inserting into the block. At the same time, you'll want to work the bellowed hose over the large port. Alignment of the clamps is important. There is very little room for tool access. The cam position sensor is right in the area of the upper clamp. Once in place, the bolts holding the AOS to the block should be installed. M6 x 30 (7.5 ft-lbs). Note that the crank (flywheel) position sensor connector has a bracket right in that area as well. Things get really crowded, real fast. The AOS pipe that crosses over to bank #2 is just set in place to show its orientation. I will be installing a new one when it arrives next week. I'll move forward with the rest of this installation once I have that...

That’s the best view of a 996.1 AOS placement that I’ve seen! If I had a bank 1 head on my M96 on my engine stand I would take a similar picture of the 996.2 AOS. Anyone got a spare bank 1 head for an M96/25?

Something that could easily be overlooked; the little coolant hoses to the AOS. These are new and have new clamps. The special tool shown was purchased for crimping CV joint boot clamps. It works, just fine, on these one-time use clamps.

Wrapped up the install of the UAOS this weekend. The car is a 99 C2, according the Skip, the tightest of the installs due to the throttle cable on the 1999. Not doing a full write-up. just some detailed pictures with some descriptions. I swapped out the AOS. The Pelican article is the best. In the write-up, there are a few pictures of where that stupid sixth bolt is. As a reminder, unbolt the AOS and pull it away, that will allow access. The picture below is the original AOS after the manifold has been removed. This is the new AOS with the modified pipe from the UAOS. At this stage, do not bolt it back up to the block, you want it loose so you can get the manifold back on. The manifold back in. Make sure to install the rear plenum at the same time as you put the manifold back on. It is impossible to install it after the manifold is installed (I've installed three AOSs, and have made this mistake twice). Below are a couple pictures of how to get to that 6th bolt. The first one you can see a 4" extension on the bolt. The second, you can see where the hole is through the manifold. I use a telescoping magnet to get the bolt into the hole, and you can reach around the other side to push it down. The rest are a bunch of pictures of the rest of the install. Not 100% sure I have all of the routing of the purge valve and one of the coolant lines exactly correct, but it appears to work. All in all, this went really well and I am very impressed with the kit. Right down to the kit including the security torx bit needed. A couple of notes, especially for the 99. Attach the regulator to the throttle body first. You will need a pair of hose clamp pliers. Keep the clamp all the way at the end of the tube with it expanded, and insert the regulator, the release the clamp. I don't think it would be possible to get inserted correctly if it was already attached to the other side. The rest of it requires a little pushing adjusting and cursing to get everything in place, but I do think it would be 100X easier if it was not a 99. The Douche Carrera is ready to ride again. Thanks Skip.

Good work on the UAOS install Kris!! Nice pics too !! The 99 C2 is definitely MUCH tighter than all the others due to the ISC and TPS sticking out in the way. Couple of suggestion to give a more tidy look. Route the change over valve extension harness right along the bottom of the Accumulator and tie strap it to the Power brake elbow. Route the AOS heater hose over the Accumulator bracket , but under/behind the hose from Accumulator to regulator. Adjust the regulator/hose to horizontal to the Accumulator (it will just swivel).

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not even if free...

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I'd go for the decked-out ones if they were also Velcro..

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I have a spare m96.2 sitting on a pallet.

The hose on the left with the 90% fitting, is that the brake booster line? Mine seems to have a vacuum leak at the swivel point. What's the best fix? PO had some rtv around it.

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Yes, it's the brake booster line, just replace it..The Elbow is available separately .

@808Bill , don't you have a 996.2? My 02 996.2 has this part (99611015152) instead of a separate elbow: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=TOOL

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Yes! I didn't realize it came off of the hose and assumed it was all one part..

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Pull the gray C clip out. Then push the hose into the elbow, hold down the black shoulder, and pull the hose out.

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Right !! The one shown in the pic is for an early 99 c2, they are the only ones that have the two-piece with the separable elbow.

I took a couple pics of the change over valve bracket. I did an additional mod withan 1/8 grinding disk, i made the notch in the opposite side and shortened the length slightly so it clips into place like it was factory. Edit: the back of the bracket needs slight grinding to clear the intake. Very easy to do.

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Good work on the bracket mod !! The factory bracket will work if you flip it and mount the change-over valve to the other side. Your UAOS was shipped out a month ago, I have since designed a custom aluminum bracket that fits even better and is easier to mod/bend since 99C2's need to have the bracket bent at a 90 degree to clear the TPS. All UAOS kits from the last batch were shipped including the custom aluminum bracket.

Not a big deal for me to mod the exitsting bracket but nice that u include a new one. I did have to clearence the bracket slightly to clear the intake. I will add this additional mod to my earlier post so people dont miss it and bind/bend the bracket when installing.

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Yea, I know it's not a big deal and any qualified wrench will instinctively know what to do. I just am following the Porsche MO, "create a great design, then constantly improve on it" !!!

Hey everyone, I received my UAOS and started to tear things apart. I been reading and preparing for this install and am now stuck on the last 10mm bolt furthest back of the intake (the "bitch bolt"). I can reach it with my fingers and feel where it is. However, right above it seems like the notch of the AOS (the notch that we are suppose to seal up, the atmospheric port I think). It doesn't seem like I can get a 10mm socket in there because the notch of the AOS is directly above it. Anyone experience this? I have a 02 tip and the AOS looks different. For example, my two 6mm bolt holding the AOS appears to be sitting downwards as oppose to the side mounted one I see in pictures here. Any tips on getting around this issue I am having is appreciated. Worst case, I am going to break the notch off the AOS since I will replace it with the one I ordered with the UAOS. But then I am not sure how I will install that bolt upon putting everything back together -_-

That's the problem I ran into on my 04 tip. You have to first loosen the AOS, both bolts, and shift it out of the way to get to the manifold bolt. And then you can get a wrench on it to loosen it one mm at a turn. At least that what my mechanic told me after I had to toss in the towel and drag my cat to the shop to finish. Good luck!

You need to remove the wiring harness so you can get to the left most bolt that hold the AOS to the cylinder head. You can get to the right most bolt easily from the right side. Then move the AOS and you’ll be able to get to the bitch bolt. Your AOS is this style:

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Thanks! Sounds painful, did you use the open box end wrench or the other end (rounded)? When I was feeling it out back there, it doesn't seem like I can get a wrench on it unless I use the open box end and position the handle towards the interior like I am stabbing myself. To loosen the AOS two bolts, were you able to reach it from the top with extensions? I have a 6mm magnetic socket on the way and hope that the bolts are 6mm and that I can reach them with some extensions. I know that if I can move the AOS enough, I am confident about getting the 10mm socket on that last bolt and loosen it no problem.

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Thank you! Pictures are great and that is exactly the AOS I have. Is the wiring harness easy to remove? Is it the whole harness or one of those disconnect and leave the other end there harness? Trying to visualize everything before I go back in there to tackle this again.

It bolts in to the round hole in the upper left hand corner:

You just have to disconnect the harness holder. You don’t actually disconnect the harness. Take a look at how the harness holder disconnects close to cylinder 1, where you can see it. Once you’ve seen how to do it, it is easy. Just takes a finger and a thumb.

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Got it! Will tackle this again sometime this week, if not, the weekend again. Thanks everyone, will update my progress and maybe completion later.

.2 C2/ Manual OK - I am at the bitch bolt and the harder AOS bolt. Seems as I have to remove the AOS bolt first to be able to clock it out of the way enough to access the last intake bolt which is currently shrouded by the disc portion of the AOS. I got the easier of the AOS bolts from below - it was a hex 5MM hex... wasn't expecting that. Back off to feel around for a while to get these 2 fasteners out.

[QUOTE=zbomb;16845358].2 C2/ Manual OK - I am at the bitch bolt and the harder AOS bolt. Seems as I have to remove the AOS bolt first to be able to clock it out of the way enough to access the last intake bolt which is currently shrouded by the disc portion of the AOS. I/QUOTE] Correct, loosen that bolt and swing the AOS out of the way and you can get to the other intake bolt.

1st trip for a tool. My 5MM hex is 3/8. Going to get 1/4 drive set so I can get 2nd AOS bolt. ETA.. Bitch bolt is easy... That rear most 5MM hex on the AOS is kind of a nightmare though. From the bottom, blind with a hex... no idea how I'm going to get back in. ETA... Intake manifold is off and I got the AOS crossover ready to be swapped over - got the old one out and new one is installed in the bank 2 head... The old one had a lot of oil in it, the rear tube that connects the 2 manifolds as well. Taking a break for some light/comp charging and re-read through AOS removal/reinstall, lot of lines to disconnect/reconnect.

So I stopped for the night. Pulled the old AOS out with most lines attached and attached them to the new AOS, since I am swapping the AOS changeover I just cut it out. I went to get the bolts started in the new AOS and its not lining up perfect, spent a couple minutes fiddling and then my light ran out of battery for the 5th time so I decided to cap my frustration for the day and finish tomorrow. Questions: The AOS crossover snakes between 2 runners on the bank 1 intake manifold - that being the case I will need to wait to final install it onto the AOS until I get the manifold back in and can run the AOS connection side through the runners... Is there a different/better routing for it that will allow install and removal without dealing with the manifold ? Did anyone have any issues with having to bleed coolant after disconnecting the coolant lines to AOS ? Thanks.

Had the UAOS installed yesterday in my 2002 C2 Cab. Car is running fantastic. So far so good. Here are before and after photos. Before After After (close)

Beautiful color. (My favorite color is green, so I’m biased) Your post above needs a picture of the entire car!

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LOL where have I seen these pictures before.

I've been trying to get the AOS bolted in place for at least a couple hours. Have the bolt closes to the firewall started but I cannot get the rear one to thread in, AOS must be lightly mis aligned... This one fastener has been 90% of the time I've spent on this project, sucks.

Well - after spending a long time getting the new AOS in, put the intake manifold in (easy compared to the 2nd rearward AOS bolt) I put the rear intake cross over on with the manifold loosely bolts in so I had a little wiggle room and began buttoning up to add the new UAOS specific parts. As I was trying to figure out the orientation of the booster/changeover plug with the lines running from it and the reservoir mount I found that the vacuum line to the vac reservoir had separated and that ended my day. Bummer

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Oh man old brittle plastic. I'm pretty familiar with wrenching these cars, on the brakes/body/suspension/interior but I know nothing about the M96, so I can't help other than saying I feel your pain.

I know working in tight places on these cars can be frustrating. As mere mortals when we get frustrated we loose the finesse needed to accomplish these delicate tasks. Sometimes the fastest way to get finished is to walk away for a while and do something else, then come back, many times it goes right in..As a professional I have had this happen so many times I can't count them. It is truly amazing sometimes how easy it is after a break from the frustration. The key is to not get frustrated in the first place, but to change techniques or tools to avoid frustration. Having a large variety of tools and techniques gets the task done without frustration. An online Porsche shop that sells a complete factory AOS replacement kit for about $450 (an AOS, both breather hoses, both coolant hoses, all clamps, the coolant fitting ect.) says it takes about 3 hours to install ALL these AOS parts. The Professionals I have got feedback from are from 3.5 hours and up on labor time on the UAOS install.Of course DIY'ers are not going to be able to do this as quickly. The first AOS I replaced in situ was about 16 years ago, and I was past my prime physically, but still growing in finesse, took only an hour to replace the AOS only..(996.1) I would rate the UAOS install at a B+ labor skill. You would need a B skill in overall knowledge of engines, and an A skill in finesse... And it doesn't hurt to have the Porsche Gods on your side !!

Don't forget, A+ tools

Sometimes my Snap-on tools in my personal toolbox are all the difference in making repairs much simpler. Sometimes the Harbor Freight/Craftsman/Stanley tools that I grab out of the shared toolbox gets the job done just as well. A lot of time the quality doesn't matter but when it does, it REALLY does. I'm not talking about crappy Chinese pot metal crap. That stuff is not worth owning. Some of the HF stuff is actually pretty good. But don't use the jack stands!

My car is in the shop for the UAOS install as we speak, along with the IMSB and other bits and pieces.

Well, the good news is where the line pulled out of is relatively accessible (was able to see it under plenum) so I’ll just have to pull the plenum back out to reconnect. Then, I can get to the UAOS specific parts.

Can someone preferably with a .2 send me a good close up of how they mounted the changeover bracket setup.

Which part is the change over bracket? I have 02 tip if the pictures helps. I haven't posted anything about my progress and completion yet because I am chasing a P0491 and P0492 code related to the Secondary Air Induction thing. Once I can sort that out, I will make a post about it. I can definitely take more pics for anyone who needs it since I am still pulling this apart and putting it back together multiple times lol.

Cool. That’s what I needed, the bracket that connects to the brake booster with the solenoid. Thanks.

Quotes source post: 16852555

This is how I did it with the aluminum accumulator. I did it the other way with the nylon/carbon one.

For those with 996.2, my AOS did not have the channel that most of the pictures indicate needs to be filled with sealant. I�m guessing the port must be in the same location at the 6 o�clock position (in situ in car), so sealed where I�m �thinking� the port is. This is where the �channel� should be...but isn't My sealing job. This is looking up from the 6 o�clock position

Hi Joe, your AOS with "no channel" is a very early factory design, possibly the original one. The factory updated the AOS 5-6 times since they were so failure prone, the rubber diaphragms are crap and still are. A bit aggressive on the sealer, but looks like you got it covered.. That's why I now recommend for people to just buy the pre-sealed AOS and install it, sealing in situ is not easy.. Glad you are finally getting to install your UAOS kit, I know it's been "quarantined" on this side of the boarder for a LONG time due to Covid-19 restrictions..

With the AOS installed it would be hard to seal it by touch. Joe’s aggressive approach has a probably the correct one, other than ordering a new Porschetech3 sealed one. At least he is certain it is sealed.

Yes, I pre-seal the AOS's for my kits on the bench and bench test each one before shipping. The Indy's who have installed the kits have had nothing but good things to say about the UAOS, and are wanting to install more and and are recommending to their other customers...

Ensuring it was sealed was my priority. Nobody can see it anyway, so pretty doesn’t count Sealing was easy, once I gave up looking for the channel that is shown in all the pics out there. Like you said way back Doc, a little RTV on fingertip, reach up and apply. Getting the pipe on with that o-ring connector was a bit challenging, but perseverance and patience is key. It’s all feel as you're working blind. Nice part was I didn’t have to remove plenums, throttle body or any of it. Just lowered engine on mounts a little and “threaded the needle” Thanks for a great bit of kit Doc!

Taking things apart. I'm at the last rear manifold bolt, which, as reported is covered by the AOS. Frustrated that the 101 Projects book is a '99 and is nothing like my 2004, and the Bentley book doesn't have any reference nor picture of the AOS that I can find. (AOS in index is only the sump swirlpots.) So, off to rennlist to save the day. I think above I'm looking at the green bolt (hex) I can loosen from the bottom. I need to find the red bolt, probably from the top. Then the AOS will be loose? Correct? Thanks!

So the red circle AOS bolt is even harder to get to than the last manifold bolt. I'm frustrated and stuck for now. It's a Gordian knot. Tips or tricks appreciated. This is as close as I can get to second AOS bolt. Reaching up, over, and around from the bottom. I'm not sure I could turn the wrench even if I could get it on the bolt.

Looks like you’re using a 3/8“ ratchet & socket. I used 1/4“ and several lengths of extensions. I also had a magnetic 10mm socket. At ne point I also may have used a u-joint. My bolts weren’t torx.

One of these might help too if you can get to it sideways.

Quotes source post: 17013296

Yes!! I'm using a short 1/4 driver, but only had a 3/8 torx. I can get an open ended wrench on the manifold bolt. (An 8mm sort of fits, but I stopped when it slipped once.) Those should work! Edit: Ordered. I hope they are thin enough. My ratcheting closed 8mm was too thick around to fit on the head next to the manifold, but these are definitely thinner. Well... And actually e-torx.

I bought mine some time ago from here: Amazon Amazon

I'm of no help - mine was a hex (what the actual F) and I got it from the bottom with the bolt taped to my socket reaching above the AOS, I could not get it from the top. You must use 1/4in drive. I got the bolt / socket / 3in (I think 3in) extension combo in place, got it started by hand and then got the ratchet on it. If you go to Harbor Freight, they have a very low profile 1/4in drive which would work a lot better than what I was using at the time. I am assuming your motor is dropped down to the cross member. That bolt was 100X more of a pain in the *** than any manifold bolt. I think I spent a total of 3-4 Hrs between getting it out and back in. The advice you don't want to hear and I'll tell you anyway - just keep feeling round.

Thank you both for the help. It's encouraging; at least I know I'm not doing anything blatantly wrong. Strangely, I haven't dropped the engine yet. I started working, thinking that I would do that when I needed to, but I just haven't needed to yet. Running into the top of the engine compartment has definitely not been my problem so far. (But my engine mounts are sagging, and they will also be replaced this winter.) I have a small 1/4" ratchet, a 1/4" by 3" extension, and 1/4" Ujoints. But I'm then adapted to a 3/8" E10 Torx. But I have the e-torx wrenches, more 1/4 extensions, and actual 1/4" eTorx sockets on the way. Hopefully with that, and paying the toll of busted knuckles and frustration, I'll get there. I'm only 45 minutes into these two bolts; the Porsche gods demand more sacrifice.

Quotes source post: 17013622

Drop the motor - it takes 5 min and will give you extra room... Looks like you have the tools that you need on the way, the 3/8 E10 aint gonna cut it. Keep after it Brother !

Got the intake off!! Sorry the pictures are sideways, it's the way my scope ended up. Torx box wrench might have worked? This is me reaching from the top to the very back. 1/4 torx socket was barely small enough to force between the AOS and the intake. One AOS bolt was off, the inside bolt is still tight, but it moved a little. And I could just get a finger on it to keep it from falling off. Success! Of course now I have to get the crossover tube off before I can pull the intake out. And I'm out of time until December. But hey, progress!

Slowly working through my winter maintenance. Got the new AOS (from the UAOS) installed. (And new bank 1 injectors). I'm putting the UAOS reservoir and sensor on, and it seems that Porschetech3 has made some updates. The provided instructions still say to splice into the coolant sensor wire behind the SAI pump using the posi-tap. However, what I was provided with was actually a UAOS oil reservoir sensor with connections already attached to connect between the coolant level sensor and the wiring harness connector. Did I miss a post updating on this? I had one issue that the UAOS connector didn't fit onto the coolant level sensor, but a very slight modification fixed the issue. Disassembled, with new AOS mounted. New pre-spliced connectors on the UAOS reservoir sensor. I'm assuming this is correct. Seems very nice. (They're not quite snapped on yet) However, the Porsche wiring harness connector to the coolant sensor (left) is different than the connector on the UAOS wire (right). The Porsche connector has a protrusion in the upper left, whereas the UAOS connector has a protrusion in the middle-left. So, the UAOS connector will not go onto the coolant sensor. I used a razor to shave the protrusion off. Now it fits onto the coolant sensor just fine. The outside snap is tight, so I think the connection will be just fine. So, despite no instructions on this new version (which is a very nice addition none the less), I think I'm doing it correctly. Any thoughts?

Quotes source post: 17082145

Yes, the new connectors are a recent update that haven't made it into the instructions yet, but are just to plugin, (no Taps). It took many months of searching to find suitable connectors. Thanks for providing the tip on the tab Mod, I knew this, but I am training some new help in building these who forgot to trim the tab ( hard to find good help these days..lol) Sorry for the inconvenience, but looks like the install is going good and you are doing everything correct..

Thanks! I always feel better after I have to improvise, and then I'm told by the expert that I'm doing it right. It's a bit validating. It's always better than getting, "What were you thinking, that's a stupid solution, obviously you should have..." I was impressed that you found connectors that were basically the correct type. It's usually impossible, but it makes the wiring very secure and professional looking. Great addition.

Quotes source post: 17083713

Thank you !! It was always my intention to make the Infra-red Sensor/wiring harness Plug-N-Play install, but due to finding appropriate connectors is like "finding a needle in a haystack" I had to resort to the Posi-Taps in the interim, especially since only one side is used in production, I literally had to go through thousands of connectors specs,it feels good that it is noticed and appreciated.

I added a metri-pack sealed connector to my setup. The posi-taps were easy to install with my engine out, but I wanted to be able to quickly disconnect everything for potential troubleshooting. Awesome to see Skip continuously incorporating improvements into the UAOS!

Quotes source post: 17083831

Thanks Yaz !!! Like I've said before, the UAOS is "head-over-heals" better/safer than the OEM AOS design or the Motorsport AOS design and has been since it's concept, but I have made many small updates/improvements in the building/manufacturing of them, and will continue to do so if I find things I can improve on . The UAOS is coming up on it's Anniversary and I am wanting to do something special for the Rennlisters to help celebrate !!!

Connector upgrade option? Easily unplugable when dropping the engine would be nice!

Quotes source post: 17084300

I used a simple 2 wire gm weatherpac connector for easy disco. Skips new upgrsde is a nice improvement.

Quotes source post: 17084300

I would like that option as well. -Tom

Quotes source posts: 17084300, 17084545

No problem, I'll hook you guys up !!! The connectors are pretty nice, they come with a few inches of wire pigtail, I'll throw in some split loom and some heat shrink in the bag also..

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I am interested as well

Quotes source post: 17084769

Gotcha !!

Quotes source post: 17084760

Excellent! I am happy to cover costs plus shipping. -Tom

Just let me know how much.

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Ditto

Quotes source posts: 17085168, 17085290, 17085365

$15 should cover the cost + shipping, just PayPal to [email removed] and include shipping address in the notes...

Done, just sent, thanks!

Skip, Paypal sent, Thank you

Quotes source post: 17084760

While you are sending things out to early adopters., I'll take one too. $15?

Quotes source posts: 17086342, 17086652, 17086947

Gotcha !! Yep, I figured there would be few more !!

Quotes source post: 17086280

Done as well. -Tom

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Money sent. Thanks for the continual upgrades!

Quotes source post: 17086280

I'm in as well, 15 inbound. Thank's

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Got it !!

My engine is in line for an FSI rebuild so I won't be installing the UAOS for a while but I'm in for the connector upgrade! I still owe you an email!

Quotes source post: 17089546

Still owe me an e-mail? Happy for you and your future FSI build !! Will be a good time to install the UAOS !!

Fantastic! I'll be getting this kit and installing it come spring time. For those who have done this job, for someone with mechanical experience, what is the estimated time to complete the job?

Quotes source post: 17099422

I'm looking forward to it !! The UAOS is truly revolutionary better/safer than the OEM design and the Motorsport design in every way, shape, form !! People who are experienced in AOS replacement can do the install in 3.5 - 4 hrs...(even faster if they are really good).

That's what I was expecting - thanks! I'll probably bank 5 hours to be on the safe side but it seems like something you can do in a day. The biggest PITA seems to be getting to the last bolts of the intake manifold. I'll be putting this on the 40th anniversary car with the all aluminum manifold but I assume it's all the same.

I helped a friend install the UAOS on his 99 996. We could not get to that last bolt on the intake from the outside (left side) of the motor. We pulled the MAF and large hoses that go from the left to the right on the intake manifold and then managed to get a 1/4 drive socket and ratchet from the inside of the intake. Even with that we could manage only a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Once that was off we taped up the holes in case something dropped in there until ready to reinstall the intake. And definitely put the last one or two bolts in the intake before you mount it into position. That way you don't have to feel around for the bolt holes.

Quotes source post: 17099723

Yes, the UAOS fits perfect on the X51 engines as well...

Mine is a 996.2 with a manual transmission. If I recall correctly it took me about 6 hours total over 5 days. That included replacing my oil filler tube and idler/tensioner bearings and the coolant flange. I took my time working for 30-60 minutes most nights after work and before dinner, except for the last day. Next time it will probably take closer to 4 hours for just the UAOS.

Quotes source post: 17088221

Skip - mine arrived today - thank you! -Tom

I think most Indy's are charging around 4hrs labor to do the install, seems reasonable..

I just spotted this on LN Engineering’s website: https://lnengineering.com/products/p...86-models.html Has anyone tried one?

Almost, i was trying to get free shipping but i found something i actually needed. Also, not sure i could shell out $30 for a plastic wrench

Quotes source post: 17115442

but it's ... Notta Wrench

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Heck, I'm just glad to see more innovative ides on the repair/maintenance of our 996 cars !! Especially with all the difficulties of the UAOS/AOS install being talked about.. Hell I can can think of MANY more difficult procedures than this one !! Someone needs to create a specific tool for the "bitch bolt" on the 996.2 !!!! Dr. h. c. Porschetech3

Ordered mine today! Thanks Skip! Now all I have to do is finish getting my shop ready so that I can drop the engine to see if I will be doing new heads or swapping for my other motor. Long story. Happy New Year everyone. GP

Done! Wow, the last bit is super fiddley! There is a slight flex in the line between the oil reservoir and the URO diaphragm, because the angle of the connector on the back of the diaphragm is slightly different than the intake port. I separated the reservoir fron the diaphragm, attached the diaphragm to the intake, then put the reservoir on the aluminum hardline, then connected the center tube back to the diaphragm. Then I worried about alignment to the mounting points and got it loosely screwed in place. Then I worked the bracket, which I bent, cut a new slot to reverse the solenoid, and painted it black. Lastly, I put the brake booster line in place. I'm not to satisfied with it at all, as there is just no room for it, and it is jammed in pretty tight. But I can't find any other way. There is some stress on the booster hardline right now to get up above the reservoir. Overall though, the UAOS a really nice piece equipment, and I'm excited to start it up. But it may be a little while yet, as I have other items to finish up, and the weather is too wet/cold anyway.

Quotes source posts: 17128197, 17128542

Thanks for your support Greg !! Thanks for the feedback and nice pics Josh !!! Well done

I have read through all the threads regarding the UAOS so I can grasp the inner workings of the oem system vs the improved system. I think i have a good understanding how the UAOS uses the oem AOS as a vortex/ drain back port to the engine while also using a new easily accessible diaphragm for future maintenance. I realize the UAOS has a catch basin to collect and detect oil before it can enter the intake. What i don't understand is what happens after the OEM AOS eventually fails ? Does the catch basin just continue to fill up with oil on a regular basis if the engine has excessive blow by ? edit: I think i answered my own question. The newly mounted diaphragm wont suck massive amounts of oil unless it has also failed and it would be signaled by the infrared sensor and then just change the easily accessed new diaphragm.

Quotes source post: 17141481

In the UAOS system, the OEM AOS "diaphragm" is disabled and "permanently sealed" making it a "lifetime part" which still serves as an air/oil separator with drain-back, but is just a "pass through" on the flow regulation. ( so since the diaphragm is dissabled and sealed, it doesn't mater if it has a hole in it or not)... The New flow regulator is mounted at an easy to access location near the throttle body for service if necessary. The Accumulator functions as an additional air/oil separator that collects any oil that the OEM AOS misses to stop ANY oil from getting to the engine,, and has a warning Infra-red sensor to notify operator of any "collection of oil" in the Accumulator. It's a mechanically simple system, but is Technically very advanced and superior to the OEM AOS design or the Motorsport AOS design.. Hope this explanation helps !! Dr. h. c. Porschetech3 UAOS shown without "modified OEM AOS and Custom breather hose" UAOS shown without "modified OEM AOS and Custom breather hose" UAOS shown without "modified OEM AOS and Custom breather hose"

making good scene now. On a 2000 tiptronic car can the atmospheric port be sealed without removal of all the same components needed to change to whole OEM AOS unit ?

Quotes source post: 17141739

No, best to get the pre-sealed AOS with the UAOS and install. Sealing the Atmosphere port is very important, and must be sealed completely. Doing this in situ has proven to be impossible for almost everyone,( and the ones who did it had to use excessive amounts of sealer to insure a positive seal.) Every UAOS I sell now comes with the "pre-sealed Lifetime AOS"...and to ""Celebrate the 1 Year Anniversary of the UAOS, all orders that haven't shipped out yet and all New Orders made untill 1/20/2021 will get the Black Anodized Aluminum Accumulator as a gift at no extra cost for Rennlisters.

I hope my order haven’t shipped!

I hope my order hasn't shipped as well! :P

Quotes source posts: 17145885, 17146062

Hasn't shipped yet, you will get the Black Aluminum Accumulator.. Hasn't shipped yet, I will cover the Customs/Extra shipping (since its going out of the US) and you ordered the upgrade version. I just wanted to say thank you to Rennlisters who have recognized a good product that will help keep 996 engines from failing unnecessarily, and add to their longevity, not to mention the PITA (and cost) of having to replace the AOS every few years as suggested by people who have had/seen them fail multiple times on the same car.

Sooo, I think I am encountering an issue. I have the UAOS (recently upgraded to the alum one) for about 900 miles now and recently I am getting my warning "low coolant" sensor tripping off more often. I got a new coolant sensor and now the warning is triggered every start up. I also notice about after every ~50 miles of driving, I would go drain the accumulator and a shot (like a a hard liquor amount of a shot glass) of water and maybe a little bit of oil would come out. I get a feeling this is definitely not good? Don't think the UAOS is failing, but more like working and telling me I should look into this now?

Quotes source post: 17157115

If you have a warning every start up, you have a loose connection.. I know of this issue of "false warning" on some cars due to "glitches" from the microprocessor in the Sensor and have re-designed the warning circuit / wiring harness and is confirmed to fix the issue. The relay is removed and replaced with a 470 ohm resistor and a simplified wiring solves the issue.It's a pretty simple fix,I can send you one out as soon as I get a shipment of Sensors that are coming from the UK that have been ordered for a month.. As far as water collection in the Accumulator, it will always be a little there and is constantly evaporating and depending on the heat and the length of your drives, will be more or less. All the combustion gases or blow-by gases are 13% water vapor.

How should I order?

Quotes source post: 17157605

You can PM me here to order, or order through the website at www.ultimateaos.com If you order through website be sure to mention Rennlist, and also include year model and trans type of your 996..

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/956x717/uaos_with_captions_cc9f763ef74bbeb892780cf29c96bb360e48f9fa.jpg

Its too bad Porsche didn't design the 911 with a removable back seat panel for engine access. Could have made maintenance way more efficient.

Quotes source post: 17158635

They had no idea the AOS was going to fail as often as it does !!! And no idea it would cause as many Hydrolock engine failures. Failure is not part of their Language ..

Thanks for that photo. Much better idea of how it goes together seeing that.

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Thanks, I had several people suppose to send me some quality photo's, so I could show the complete system as it sits in state but without the engine ...George came through !!! All I had to do use Microsoft Paint to add the notes !!!

I didn�t realize until you posted that, that it still connects to a modified aos (forgive me I�m slow). All I�d seen till this point was the business end so to speak. All these great photos people post if various things really help.

Quotes source post: 17165871

Yes, has Two air/oil separators. The Factory style still separates oil and drains back to the engine while the Accumulator is the secondary oil separator if there is a problem and sets off the warning. There has been a lot of "system hacks" that have tried to improve the AOS system in the last 2 decades, but they were either non-emission compliant, or they used a "Catch Can" mounted remotely with long hoses and high internal volume that caused air/fuel mixture issues and excess water accumulation. The UAOS is the only one that is still emission compliant, and uses low internal volume and high velocity to keep fuel mixtures and water vapor in check !! Plus a warning system to stop the threat of Hydrolock !!!Hence in Patent Pending !!!

Go small business!

Quotes source post: 17165953

Small business is having a hard time in the wake of the Pandemic, the "Rona" has caused me many problems in 2020 getting the UAOS going..but 2021 is here !!!

It�s been difficult to get basic electrical items like circuit breakers in my line of work. Generators are 8-14 weeks out. Getting parts for generators hasn�t been too tough. I do mostly service anyway. That said good for you. You created something people want and brought it to market.

I came across this diagram of the entire AOS system

Quotes source post: 17167018

Thanks, I actually created it for myself after I nearly lost my M96 at the end of 2019 at the TGPR race track ( nicknamed Little Talladega) . I was tracking my 996 all morning every thing was fine, went in for noon lunch break After lunch I started it back up to go back out and was covered with smoke. I knew exactly what had happened, but was still shocked and embarrassed at the smoking and almost Hydrolocking my engine. Such an unnecessary lose of an engine was totally unacceptable to me, so the quest for a REAL solution was ON.. Everyone had tried and failed at improving the AOS system for decades and had given up, with the consensus that the only solution was to replace the Factory AOS every few years, this was not acceptable to me as new ones sometimes would fail without warning, so using a systematic approach a permanent and dependable solution was designed. It worked so well I had to get it Patented to protect my IP and share it with as many as possible for the good of the 996..( and make a little $$) The "Rona" has caused problems with shipping and suppliers closing, and all sorts of things..It took over a month and a half to get a shipment of electronics from the UK, I just got them yesterday !! Gonna go ahead and start ordering today for next month and March..

Quotes source post: 17167081

Nice diagram but it has one important fatal flaw. The line from the intake manifold where it says 9-12 in H20 is totally incorrect, intake vacuum can reach near 400 inH20 (29 inHG).!!! Maybe that's one reason the Factory Engineers screwed up so badly on the AOS design. !!!

What is ship time kit for 3.6 with Tiptronic? Can be installed by owner who has tools/jacks and medium mechanical ability?

Quotes source post: 17180798

Tools: 10MM Mag socket 1/4 Lowest profile 1/4 ratchet possible Bore scope would be helpful, I didn�t have but wish I did. hose clamp pliers https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pl...E&gclsrc=aw.ds Medium mechanical ability should be sufficient. Most important IMO, TIME. The job can be frustrating so not being under the gun to get it done is a big, big plus IMO. The above based on 6SPD car, maybe someone can chime in on differences or alterations for a tip.

Quotes source posts: 17180798, 17180946

This: 10MM Mag socket 1/4 & the low profile ratchet are your best friends. When I did mine, the last 10mm bolt on the intake is 90% blocked by the AOS atmospheric port area. I forced my 10mm magnetic socket with a skinny extension in there while looking at it from a bore scope connected to my phone. I realized, if you can, figure out how to move / rotate / or even pop off the AOS before that last 10mm bolt, it will help so much. You really need to be able to pull the AOS off a little and then move/rotate the AOS just enough to get the 10mm mag socket in and you will be good to continue on. To install that last bolt, its easier once you see it, but it helped me a lot to have the the hose clamps loose and once that last bolt (probably your first bolt for installing) you can move the new sealed AOS in place and then hose clamp it back properly. Then continue installing the rest the of the intake and UAOS.

Quotes source post: 17180798

The ship time was running about 4 weeks until the Anniversary/Promotional offer, with a crazy amount of orders received I am now behind and having trouble getting enough parts/ supplies especially from the UK. I suggest professional installation. It really feels like a simple installation operation to me, but I have found I greatly underestimate my ability as compared to non-professionals who struggle with the "tight quarters and finesse needed". You should listen to Henry and Jason above or others who have installed the UAOS to get a more accurate assessment of how difficult it may be for you.. Everyone's experience will differ.

I installed a new AOS couple years back. Engine in place but dropped to the cross-member. I swore after that if I ever need to do it again, I will gladly pay for someone else to do it and drop the entire engine. It took every amount of skill and patience I had. And bonus, you get to do everything with your left hand. What a PITA!

Quotes source post: 17180798

I think you can do it. My tip would be to get the car on Jack stands, lower the engine, and then not to be in a hurry. If you�re not in a hurry, then any issue you run into is less of a worry. Expect to need to ask advise. Buy/make any of the suggested tools. Be ready to give up somewhere along the way. Come back the next day to �try it again.� Just when you�re ready to give up and have it towed off, it will magically relent.

Quotes source post: 17183729

When lowering engine does it physically stop when it lightly touches the cross-member? How much clearance is added at the top of engine? I read the 101 Projects and Bentley books and did not see pictures of or reference to this procedure. Thanks.

Quotes source post: 17185014

Yes, you will see it make contact from under the car. As far as clearance, I never actually measured, but I�d guess maybe an inch or so...even a mm makes a big difference when your trying to access stuff in there.

You�ll get 3-4� at the very back of the engine - less at the AOS which is at the front of the engine near the fire wall - more like an inch or two. I�d also recommend releasing the transmission from its mount to let the trans. tilt down near the mount - this will give you more room at the AOS. ** You have to be careful that nothing on the engine is leaning against the firewall...

Quotes source post: 17183976

Truth!

With jack under engine loosened motor mount nuts to just a few threads showing, and engine only dropped about 1/2 inch. Maybe that's because the Tip transmission is bigger and there is little space to cross-member. Removing first plenum was not hard, but second one rubber collars didn't want to budge. And clamp screws pointing upwards seems to indicate it was installed outside of engine bay so maybe it had never been removed before. Both plenums have a small vacuum hose connected to them, don't know how to remove those and maybe should not take a chance at breaking them but just leave plenums in engine bay as they are not in the way. Didn't know second plenum has a flap in it, guessing that opens at a certain rpm to provide resonance or more air flow.

U just pull on the plastic vac hoses that r in the boots. If u brake it its sold by the meter at the dealer for cheap and 2 meters will replace all the vac lines if u dont have the selectable exhaust.

Got out 5 intake manifold bolts with a 3/8" drive ratchet and medium length extension. Pretty easy. Bitch bolt looks like enough room around it to get on a socket, but AOS diaphram is right over it so I don't see how any size ratchet could get on the socket. Maybe I can get a wrench on it, but there's also a semi-rigid line maybe fuel limiting access. Hmmmm.

Check post 91-99 may help?

Don�t mean to hijack this thread, but I watched Jake Rabys R40 engine video and test drive last night. The video showed the R40 engine on a bench and it appeared to have the UAOS installed. If so, that�s a great testimonial for this product. I recall the video was created this month.

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The R40 engine featured in the FSI / Rennvision video did indeed have the UAOS on it. Jake was impressed with the function and quality,.My design/Invention should have been on the M96/7 engine from Porsche at the start. It would have saved quite a few engines and have been much easier to service and a lot less costly to maintain ..

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It was a bit of a gamble, but with such low torque I went for it... Slim 5/16th ratcheting combo worked like a charm.

Reading online found 4 methods to remove 6th manifold bolt on installed engine: From outer side of manifold: 1. Use short 10mm wrench. 2. Loosen AOS first and swing out of way. 3. Come straight down with 1/4" ratchet and extension. Or from inner side of manifold: 4. 1/4" drive ratchet. Tried number 3, and inspection mirror shows socket firmly on bolt. The little ratchet was strong enough to break the bolt loose and it was easily coming out until the socket got trapped between the AOS diaphram disc and manifold runner. I tilted the extension and while the socket was still pinned between two surfaces it was not too tight and bolt threads came completely out. If doing again would grind down the height and diameter of an old socket to minimize its size and therefore how much pressure it puts on the manifold runner. The universal joint was only used to get ratchet at correct length, it would not have been needed if the extension was a little longer. The manifold held the loosened bolt, and with some thought and maneuvering it came out of the engine compartment. The AOS is now standing alone and 1 bolt looks easy to access, and I think the 2nd is underneath a wire harness that can be moved by cutting a factory installed tie wrap. A quick look in the intake ports showed they and valves look very clean.

These posts make it seem like you need to be a contortionist puzzle solver to change out the AOS, ending up with badly skinned knuckles. I just changed out my original AOS "while I was in there" with my trans out so I should be good to go for some time, hopefully. If I had to do just the AOS today I'd seriously consider dropping the trans again it if I knew I didn't need to take off the flywheel. It was a tight squeeze with it off but not hard and I think the flywheel might be in the way. I could probably drop the trans in a couple hours, going in from under the hood sounds like double that. Would have been nice if Porsche included access panels on the back deck for these things.

@996.2 , you're just about done with the hard part. It goes back on much easier than it came apart. The "hardest" parts of assembly are: Getting the correct torque on the intake bolts. Remember it is INCH pounds, not foot pounds. The rear most bolt(s) have to be done by muscle memory, not a torque wrench Getting the plenums on. It is easy once you've done it a few times. Push rubber pieces as outboard as possible and slip one end of the plenum in. Use soft plastic interior tools to motivate the plenum into the other rubber piece. The plastic vacuum line can be connected after the rear plenum is in place. Just reach underneath. Rotate the plenum some if necessary.

2004 C2 here, all of my bolts were E10 torx on the manifold and AOS.

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I have a 2002 C2 and all of mine were 10mm on both. I wonder when they changed.

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Because e10 suck . I would swap them out if they were in my car

Rest of the bolts weren't too difficult , but there was obviously no way and e10 was fitting on the "bitch bolt." Like I said, 5/16th ratcheting closed end wrench will get the job done if your engine is fitted with the torx bolts. The biggest problem I see for novice mechanics is working via mirror, borescope, or using the "force" (Eyes closed, working by feel). Obviously, I went with combo of all three. After changing out the AOS, upper and lower hoses for AOS, and coolant expansion tank this past weekend, I can honestly say I should have just pulled the motor. What a PITA.

WHINE ! WHINE ! WHINE ! This stuff is just another day in the life of a Porsche Tech.. I know it's evil, but I get a kick out of watching the struggle, but I warned ya, "Pro installation recommended"...lol

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Every make/model has their tough to do job. BMW N54 electric water pump R&R. Honda Odyssey alternator R&R, Toyota Sienna rear 3 spark plugs, Ford Triton spark plugs, Chevy LT1 Opti-spark R&R... Scratched knuckles doing an AOS? R&R a BMW water pump! M96 spark plugs tough to get to? Replace the rear spark plugs on a Toyota Sienna. The back three require the winshield wiper assembly and part of the firewall removed...along with the intake. Ford Triton spark plugs almost always break coming out. The Opti-Spark is WAY down there below the water pump...that's so it can get wet and stop working soon. Honda Odyssey alternator is a pain...until you know the secrets that's aren't in any manual. Oh yeah, easy to get it out of the mount...but the hole you're working in is too small for the alternator to fit through. ...and on and on... The upside to working on a 996: Motor mounts, oil changes, headlight R&R, brake pads...

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I really respect you guys that do this work for a living. We ordered a few of these and will try one in the 6th bolt position. My notes say 7.5 ft/lbs. Should allow for easy removal next time because there is no socket to bind between manifold and AOS diaphragm. To drive thinking about cutting down a long ball end allen wrench.

^^^^^ one of the main reasons I Invented the UAOS and made the AOS a "Lifetime" part, for a part that fails so often and so hard to replace, you only want to do it ONCE !! Not to mention the fact that many M96 engines have failed due to Hydrolock !!! And contributed greatly to the reputation of the 996...

First time you guys have seen a demolition saw used in the repair of a M96 engine: The bolt towards front of car was a Torx 30 and the head lightly stripped but it came out ok. The rear bolt to get the T30 socket on it required either a shorter extension which I didn't want to stop progress while it was purchased or cut off the AOS diaphragm and that was done. After gaining access the bolt head stripped really disheartening!!! I was able to tap an English size allen (hex) socket into the bolt head and super blessed the bolt broke loose and came out. Now just have a wire harness to disconnect which is trapping the bottom AOS hose. Purchasing a short 1/4" drive wobble extension and 2 new bolts for new AOS install.

OK !! OK !! You're not a Whiner ! Don't take it out on the 996. I'll have to get Rennvision to do a " Focus on UAOS installation" video to show the proper way..

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My 99 is all E10, but it is a reman motor with the 997 IMS bearing (I was very lucky with the salvage car I purchased sight unseen to to replace my blown motor, that it was a reman motor). On the 99, the last time I removed the AOS (I did it a total of 4 times, but once the motor was out of the car), I was able to get it out in 45 minutes (removing the manifold). The bitch bolt I can do with a 3/8ths, but that is have unmounting the AOS. I am grateful that I will never have to do it again thanks to Skip and the UAOS.

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We have a Mk2 and most postings and even Porsche's Illustrated Parts Manual show a Mk1 which mounts from the side instead of top and has the bellows. In all the material I reviewed I didn't learn there is ONE MORE HOSE AND CLAMP UNDER Mk2 AOS, and now understand why we were advised to get the remote operating hose clamp pliers. Apparently those are mandatory to get the clamp off the bottom of a Mk2 where the engine was not completely taken out, at least with a Tip transmission. It would be nice if the Rennvision video would show the significant differences between Mk1 and 2 and Tip and manual trans, use of the mandatory remote hose clamp pliers, and tips to make any future disassembly much easier such as installing hex allen socket head bolts on the 6th position and AOS mounts (where a very thin ball allen wrench can slip right down to them).

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How big of a deal would it be to cut a hole? sounds like a good idea, what else is in the way?

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You think I should include a " Trap Door Kit" with each UAOS? Ain't gonna happen cap'n !! Just suck it up buttercup, get your hands dirty,knuckles bleeding !!

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Ski pass through. Just include a cut off wheel and template.

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lol,,, Nope, not gonna entertain cutting easy access on a Porsche of any year., it's not really that bad of a job. I use to feel guilty charging 3 hours to do an AOS on 996.1 6MT , because I could do it in 1 hour , and there is no book time to judge by.. If it were a 20 year old Dodge Ram maybe..

6th manifold bolt is difficult to access because socket is about .550" diameter and gets trapped between AOS diaphragm and manifold. Purchased new socket head bolts for reinstalling manifold and AOS, driven by slim .225" dia ball end hex tool with the short arm cut off. This will make reassembly and future removals relatively easy. Ball driver should be strong enough to apply 7.5 ft/lbs of torque, and allow tilting to access when bolt head is shielded. I have stainless steel and zinc plated socket head bolts, they will be mounted in aluminum and will dissimilar metals have a galvanic reaction? I think yes, and the zinc coated would have less reaction so we should use those?

Nice Tip/Trick, thanks for posting. Couldn't source any Brass Allen head bolts I suppose?

Wouldn�t the use of copper or zinc anti seize on the threads pretty much negate the need for stainless fasteners? The Allen head bolts sound like a great idea though.

Go zink, stainless and aluminum dont play well together.

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The bolt supplier's website had stainless, zinc coated, and black oxide, and I didn't think to search for brass or other materials. I've got zinc coated on order so will use them for the 6th manifold and AOS bolts. They're only 39 cents each https://www.belmetric.com/6mm-yellow...c-p-14361.html .

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I think Porschetech maybe eluding to how easy that bolt will be to strip, especially using a ball end driver. I would strongly suggest using a non ball Allen driver to install and remove that bolt if you switch over to it. Good luck 🍀 🤞

Here ya go !! ,,High visibility, non-corrosive to aluminum.. "bitch bolt replacement" significant weight savings also..... Amazon Amazon

My Daddy got frustrated so I got it. What cleaner should I used to get oil off hoses and engine?

Cute! I use Simple Green.

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If she completes that AOS installation for you, I got a job for her, she will be my new UAOS spokes-person !!!! LMAOO

This is the remote locking clamp pliers that got clamp off bottom of AOS, which is tied with removing stripped AOS socket head bolt as hardest part of job so far. Pliers have two major design flaws; locking wheel should be multiple times larger with many more teeth because clamping steps are way too large to get required opening diameter and pliers have to be squeezed hard at end of travel to get clamp to actually release hose, and slide is so wide it is very hard to position jaws on clamp. A dremel could remove some of the slide that is not needed, and I will do if using this tool on a regular basis. The installed jaws are for medium clamps and the clamp on the AOS is out of range on the small side which requires manually squeezing handles, the two other jaws below it are easily installed, one for medium and large clamps and the other for crimping? There were no instructions in tool packaging. Other work done yesterday: I could not remove two of the larger hoses to the installed AOS so had cut them off, and this resulted in many black plastic chips in the hose under the AOS which I think feeds oil into the crankcase, using a wetvac it pulled all the chips out. A cut off port from the AOS was still stuck in the lower hose and when maneuvering hose to remove cut off piece, the corrugated hose made a crackling sound, so before reassembly will find a way to apply smoke to hose to ensure there are no actual cracks. Small hose from top of power steering reservoir was occasionally dripping so checked reservoir level and it was way over full, using turkey baster removed fluid and don't understand how it got over full?

For those of you who have the UAOS installed I�m curious what your manometer readings were before the install and after the install.

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The UAOS runs about 1 inh2o lower than the Factory AOS. Usually about 3.5 -4.5 inh2o. Any lower and I start to suspect the crankcase is not sealed well, a cracked oil fill tube ect. What are your readings??

The UAOS systems "flow control" has 4 pressures at work with/against each other. Engine vacuum negative pressure(variable) and Atmospheric pressure(static) "against" spring pressure (static) and crankcase pressure (variable), to keep a constant slight negative pressure (- 3.5 - -4.5 inh2o) throughout the entire load range..

My vacuum reading is 5.2 as a high and 4.8 lowest of 4 different days with UAOS.

I guess I should also point out that in Laymen terms to understand the dynamics of the flow control, the Atmospheric pressure should be considered static, because the changes are slight compared to engine vacuum, where Atmospheric pressure changes slightly with weather and more due to Altitude ( 1-2 inHG), Scientifically it would be considered a variable, but not a variable compared to engine vacuum that will change from 0-29 inHG with engine load....Note;; 1 inHG equals 13.6 inH2o

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before 5.3 inh20 after 3.7 inh20 sea level. 60 degrees F

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Looks good for Seal Level.. I have so many of the UAOS's in CA and the Aluminum Version is so popular, I'm designing a "snap on" plain Nylon cover to be more incognito and quick to take on and off... According to the CARB Appendix G there should be no problem with the UAOS, but I wonder how many Inspectors have actually read the Apendix G...

Mine was 22 and now 4.5. Obviously the aos had failed.

Before: -4.67 inH2O After: -3.60 inH2O 35' above sea level

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Mt Juliet Tn has an elevation of 600ft, that's an 8.5 inH2o difference from Seal Level for Atmospheric pressure, and Atmospheric pressure is only 1 of 4 balancing pressures of the UAOS..Yours is fine.. Yep, clearly failed. The Dual Oil Separators and warning system of the UAOS stops the threat of Hydrolock. People who ignore this threat and just lump it into the IMSB, Bore Score,cracked head list of "it won't happen to me" and gamble, need to know, the Hydrolock failures are "Secondary Catastrophic Failures" of a simple little split in a rubber diaphragm ..lol .. Being a Dealer Tech and Racer for 45 years, hardly anything surprises me, I had seen many many AOS fail and replaced quite a few M96 due to Hydrolock, and thought how can owners let this happen to their car, weren't they paying attention?,but was totally surprised by how FAST this can turn SERIOUS when you witness it first hand, and are only safe if you drive like a Grandma most of the time until you have the UAOS. Looks near perfect Tex !! And thanks to all for "giving back" Data ect, instead of just taking what you want from the forum...

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With that reading, what symptoms did you experience? Or did you just do a manometer test, saw the reading and replaced?

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No symptoms at all. i even tracked a day because ignorance is bliss. Found it with a nanometer test because i wanted to do some track days and skip had just released the unit so i figured i would check it jic. Found some email paperwork from the po and it was replaced with a factory porsche in 2015, about 15k miles ago.

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Any Manometer reading above -7 inH2o is a faulty flow control. And even a Brand New Porsche AOS is not safe. Last year an FSI and an RND engine failed by Hydrolock due to Brand New Porsche AOS's.. Jake mentioned he had Inspected these Post-Mortem to find the root cause. FSI is offering the UAOS for all M96 engine builds. The UAOS with Primary and Secondary oil separator/accumulator and warning system is the only safe solution. A tear in the diaphragm of only .060 in (the size of the Atmosphere port) can cause the crankcase pressure to swing wildly up to -400 inh20 (29 inHG) !!!! It is much worse on high RPM deceleration like you see after long straights on the Track. If the tear in the diaphragm is less than .060 in you can see slightly higher Manometer readings in H2o at idle, but will swing in large amounts and delay in response while driving. I have seen the readings go from -50inH20 at startup instantaneously, then and slowly go down to 5-7 inh2o after 20-30 seconds. When the flow control is working properly, it will maintain a consistent slight -inH2o under all circumstances from instantaneous startup to high RPM deceleration and everything in between..

Got ours finished today. Upon starting a neighbor came over thought my garage was on fire. Drove about 20 miles finally burned off all the oil in mufflers, and engine running normally with no CEL. If doing again would drop engine or take to professional. Thanks for tips you guys provided, if you hadn't teased me with the brass and aluminum bolts comments, I would not have been aware would have stripped bolts with the ball end allen tool I fabricated. Instead only used that tool to start socket head bolts holding down AOS and farthest manifold position, then make a second tool out of a long arm allen wrench to torque AOS and farthest manifold socket head bolts to 7.5 ft/lbs. $10 pump from Home Depot and $5 cigar, did smoke checks to installed AOS then manifold and plenums. It seemed to pump smoke and none came out of any parts of the engine.

Y'all are killing my UAOS sales with all this "drop the engine talk". IS it really that hard for y'all??? At the Dealership I could do an AOS in a couple of hours. I think Kris Murphy can do it in 45 min.

U did kinda create this problem. The first time u replace an aos its difficult. U just dont know all the small things that make the job easier. If u had to do the job a second time it would be much easier. With your uaos nobody has to do it a second time.

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Yea, all true , and the reason for the thread ,but all the little things that are posted here Tips/Tricks should improve the efficiency of the task ,seriously this is a few hour job, no need to talk of "removing the engine", that is reserved for more serious jobs. This UAOS Install thread/Tips/Tricks will improve the" few hours" down to " a couple of hours" if read carefully and all the Tips/Tricks are implemented. You are a really good wrench and not intimidated by these kinds of tasks. The intimidation factor is what causes most people here issues. If you count the bolts,clamps,and clips needed to be R&R'd the do this task it's less than a couple dozen..a few minutes each is more than enough time if you don't spend a lot of time scratching your head.

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Ha! I love it. You need to save this image when people starting about their cars smoking. Just tell'm yours prefers unfiltered from Cuba.

I don't think it's as bad as people do make it out to be. I haven't done mine yet but the biggest detractor seems to be the tight working quarters, not the complexity of the job itself. I know it's extra work on your part but perhaps updating the steps with the tricks and tips included (maybe even with photos) would be helpful for those doing this themselves. It would prevent you going through 200+ posts looking for info ha! FWIW, I may try to document the process with photos once I get to this job.

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The rubber hose under mk2 AOS and plenum(s) pushing intake manifold keep those parts off center and so very difficult to start inner AOS and 6th intake manifold bolts. How to articles like Pelicans simply say squeeze the connector pull it off, when for me I squeeze the connector and it doesn't even budge, I might have to get pliers on there to squeeze and then rotate or rock it back-and-forth to get it to release. If there are tricks to these steps I could have done the job in reasonable time and effort, and I would have paid for that info.

Is there a diagram and clear explanation of the AOS system, with and without the UAOS installed? I would like to learn the theory so we can determine what we should do next with ours, and I don't recall seeing a good explanation of the system and apologize if it's already been made available.

There is another uaos thread but in a nut shell its an air-oil seperator. It takes the crank case air which has suspended oil and seperates it so the oil drains back to the motor and the poluted air goes to the intake instead of atmosphere like older cars. The diaphram controls the vac rate so it can operate correctly. The uaos moves the diaphram, which is what fails, to an easy area to change in case of failure. It also puts a resivior in line with a sensor so if the diaphram fails and the car sucks oil toward the intake u can shut it down before it hydrolocks. so if u have an issue the new uaos diaphram is $25 and takes 10min to fix.

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Skip - shhhh. I already have people asking me to do it for them. The reason I got the UAOS is so I never have to do it again. BTW, it takes me 45 minutes to get it out (removing the manifold), another hour to get it back in. Oh, and I never get that damn clamp on the baffle right the first time. This is all on my back. Now that I have the lift, it will be quicker, and you have sold the UAOS to a few of my friends, so I am sure I will find out. The best advice is if you get stuck, take a break, and come back to it. Also, don't start drinking beer until you have the AOS out.

Don't worry, you've got a great product there. I'm trying to decide where to fit it into the whole process. Injectors are here and ready to go. I'm trying to do these repairs in a logical order. If others can do this, so can I. Furthermore, I don't see putting the original setup back in if your's keeps me from ever having to do it again, or at least with far less work.

Starting to do the planning work of this job. Are there any things I should be changing while in there? Any other lines, hoses, fittings, connectors, etc. Have you guys broken anything during this job?

All plastic vac lines/boots and the coolant fitting by the alt. Also the oil fill tube.

Congratulation to Skip, his UAOS is on the verge of taking off even bigger with Barry Hart Hartech is also going to offer this product on Jake recommendation in Europe. Congrats. again on success.

I had my own AOS thread going and 996.2 pointed me to this one. Not doing UAOS. 2003 C2, so it's the AOS that goes in the engine top and not the side. Seems to me this one is going to more difficult because raises up on removal. Anyone with experience on both types? Does Pelican Parts guide work well on this one?

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It seems like one would remove enough from the top of the motor that doing injectors at the same time would make sense and give you some more space to work in. Thinking of tackling it that way...

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Surprisingly only broke the oil fill tube. Replacement of that required removal of the alternator which while difficult made installation of the AOS and intake less arduous. Even with a lot of accidental pushing and bending the small water tube didn't break nor did the many small hard vacuum lines and rubber mounts.

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Yes, it's just like all the 996.2 (2002+) C2s. It's not that difficult, except for the left AOS bolt and of course the last "bitch bolt." But there are a bunch of tips in this thread for getting the bitch bolt out.

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Thanks JohnCA58, I have sold the UAOS units to Australia, Beijing, Canada, South Africa, Netherlands, and now with Hartech in Europe and FSI offering to their customers, the next issue for me will be supply...the 996 Market and customers are so fickle it makes it difficult to predict or get ahead of demand, and I'm not a rich man, on the contrary, just a retired Porsche Tech who has wrenched out a living. To pcolapacker and 996.2 you shouldn't have installed the factory style AOS for ANY reason. The UAOS is superior in all ways , shapes, and forms, even in cost. You never have to replace it again, it protects against Hydrolock/engine failure by means of secondary oil separator and warning system, and is less expensive ( over time). If you take a 4 hour labor estimate for an AOS replacement, and a 3 year interval as recommended by all businesses who know the frequency of failure of the AOS, the UAOS will have saved 12 hours labor alone ( @ $1800usd ) in a 9 year period......8 hours labor ( @$1200) in a 6 year period..... 4 hours labor ( @$600) in a 3 year period. It's really a NO-BRAINER , y'all need to explain your decision...

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1. Before I change a factory system I need to well understand that system and the all the ramifications of proposed changes. I had asked for diagrams and explanations of the factory AOS system and the changes the UAOS makes and did not get them. I have a lot of reference material so eventually I will get this information if it's not provided. 2. There is no timetable but in perhaps two years we will be dropping the engine and we could install the UAOS at that time.

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That's what I was thinking.

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In the last year I have poured my heart out about all things AOS related in thousands of posts in only two threads, explaining the physics ,dynamics, design, differences, downfalls, advantages, every aspect of the Factory design, the Motorsport design, the UAOS design. ,this one has had 15k views and other 50k, that's 65k views of my posts in only two threads, so I'm pretty sure you are aware. DeJeeper just gave you a simplified overview, and the UAOS website has also a simplified overview. For a detailed understanding I suggest you read the thousands of my posts, I'm not a journalist and will not be trying to write a essay on the subject.

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skip has explained the factory componants and what each items in his modification does in depth, in this and other uaos threads. I gave i an explaination of the factory system a few posts above. Post 233 this mod does not change how the factory system works, it just adds a resivior, sensor and moves the diaphram to an easy to replace location. The new diaphram is a bmw part and much cheaper then the entire porsche aos. As i said before the diaphram is what fails 90% of the time. Choose to install or not... it really doesnt make a difference to me but if u do your research u will see this as a wise mod.

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If you haven't replaced this factory plastic AOS coolant line connector with the upgraded URO Aluminum one like here, I would suggest that. I was contemplating including it in the UAOS kit, but figure many people already have this upgrade after 20 years. Amazon Amazon URO Aluminum replacement for factory plastic AOS coolant connector

That's on the list too, because I said "I won't break the oil fill tube..."

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I treat all plastic as if it were brittle, until it proves otherwise ...

Sage advice.

For those that track, do you run more oil above the mid level mark now that the UAOS is protecting against hydro lock?

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No but u have a 2qt sump. I still dont want to risk pulling oil into the resi.

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A few years ago I broke the oil filler neck, and during replacement broke the AOS coolant connector. I went with the R&S billet version.

F homemade metal version. Drill out the plastic bracket and put a brass barb coupler in the hole. $2

Awesome mod!

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What's the size? Is this a Lowes/Home Depot thing?

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this is my kind of repair!

I found this size to work the best. I found it at Home Depot but I�m sure Lowe�s or any hardware store will have a version that will work.

Eh, pretty nice piece if you use a fresh $6 Porsche bracket to put the $2 brass coupling into it. I have seen the bracket break too often and all gets against the belt and causes more issues than a coolant leak. The plastic is not a high quality and has no glass filler or other strengthening hence the reason it breaks so often. I still recommend the URO Aluminum piece for $15-$20 bucks, no labor involved and will last a lifetime.

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What's the price of the UAOS-CFN? Website has on back order and doesn't list a price.

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The UAOS-CFN is $460 + $30 shipping in USA = $490 total full Kit. Price will show up when comes off backorder.

Well, finally had a chance to test my AOS. Huge thanks to Aaron ( De Jeeper ) for helping me with this. Definitely need to address it. Do I get a prize for the higher reading? Skip - you'll be getting a PM shortly!

That’s not bad if you’re at a higher elevation. But it is borderline. Changing to the UAOS is always a great idea!!

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look again thats 60.1 not 6.01 inwc. I checked it several times. Seams very high, mine read 22 inwc when it was bad.

Does your cap have that tiny extra hole drilled into it? I bought another cap, drill bit for the idle size, and the plugs, I just haven't been in a position to use it. I need to get a barb fitting too.

We tested this in Delaware so hardly much elevation. Even at elevation this would seem like a sky high number. Regardless, it's the next job on the list.

Assuming I understand the test correctly, that hole he has us drill would likely alter or lower those readings somewhat.

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That .110 precision hole is for testing blow-by "positive pressure" with AOS disconnected and plugged. See "Engine Health blow-by test" thread.. That -60.9 inh2o is extremely high and definitely indicates a severe failure of the AOS..

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Thx skip, fyi that same set up reads about -4 in my car with the uaos, so i know the tester and cap r good.

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Yep, solid test and results !!!

Glad I asked then. Looking at a different problem this time.

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Wow, I was using my iPhone and thought it said 6.09. 60.9 is definitely bad!

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Yep plpete84 you get the prize for "worst AOS" found by Rennlisters (60.9) and still running !!!! But trust me, if the little split in the rubber diaphram grows by only 1/16th inch (0.063 in ) , the number will be in the 100's !!!! And can happen in the blink of an eye !!!

And running she is strong but she's also thirsty to the tune of quart of oil per 800 to 1000 miles, depending on the driving style. Looking forward to getting my hands cut up during the UAOS install Also ordered a tiny ratchet that should be helpful in the tight quarters.

I used to think that 1/4" tools were just toys...Arrgh, give me a 3/8" or better yet 1/2"...no hand me that 3/4" or 1" breaker bar...arrgh! Then I started working on German cars with their tight spaces and now my 1/4" low profile Snap-on ratchet is many times my go-to tool. Tiny sure makes tight spaces easier.

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So this can be done at idle, warmed up I assume? With any holes drilled cap plugged. Getting close to having the car put back together after putting in new injectors, down to mostly heat shields and bumper. Time to do some further investigations. Have an oil sample test kit and a durametric now. Caved to peer pressure and bought one of those URO coolant connectors.

Skip is explaining 2 different test. A simple aos test is an old oil cap with a fitting in it so u can measure vacuum. The blow by test is seprate and requires additional holes in the cap and things to be diconnected or blocked. Search for that thread to know how to measure it.

That I get, I�m now trying to make sure I do the one in this thread correctly so I could share and discuss too. I have the new cap ready to be modified for this and that blow by thread one.

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I work on aircraft, a long time ago an old (ouch) A&P told me to always use 1/4 drive tools. That way I would have less chance of breaking something expensive I couldn't pay for. I guess I am now that old guy.

I'm very pleased and Honored to announce that the UAOS has been picked up by FSI ,L&N Engineering, and Hartech to offer to their customers as well !!! Jake and FSI has been doing extensive testing of the UAOS on the "R" series engines and it has "passed and impressed" on all test fronts!!! If it can handle the "R" series, can it handle your engine? Yes ! , Yes it can !!!!

Congrats Skip. You have a great mind for this stuff, I hope you sell a million.

Congrats! That should stop the naysayers.

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Thanks Jason !! Don't need to sell a million, but a million would just about cover all M96 engines, it should have been on them from the start.....

That's great Skip! And such a simple mod to install, unless you include the AOS on a .2 Tip

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LOL, I'm looking to put an Install video on a thumb drive to include with the UAOS's. Someone is making one now, but don't know if it will "pass the mustard"..

U should make a deal with the Flat Six production crew. They shoot real good vids. Time to ramp up production, which should keep your costs in check. Good news for everyone.

I think the video is a great idea, but I�d like to see it on the site. Just easier to access on a phone.

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Thanks Aaron,Yep, Bobby at RennVision can do some great quality videos. Everyone is so busy that finding someone to "perform the install task on camera " can be an issue though, we'll see. Already looking for another person to add for production, good help is hard to find these days...

Not sure that I have the time to do video now but I'll be planning to document my install with many photos when my UAOS arrives in coming weeks. It will be coupled with few other things, however.

Well, Skip, so much for “retirement”. Congrats! All your fine work and the product quality...superb. B3 busy? Tell him to shake a leg and get your video in the production line. You’re a player now, big boy.

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Hey Guys, Thank you for the nice comments. Skip is right. Because of the pandemic, my "normal job" has me super busy building course content. I work for an office of online learning. We've been so busy this year, Jake has had to either record using someone else or attempts to do it solo. Many of his "flat 6 minute" videos have been shot with his iPhone. I'm happy to discuss doing an UAOS instructional video, but I guess we'd need to team up with Jake to make it happen at his shop? Again, thank you guys for the vote of confidence.

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Congrats Doc!

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Congrats, Skip!! So cool to be able to watch the development of a product that has passed such a high bar! Now about those clutch discs....

Congrats Skip! Quite an accomplishment!

Fantastic news! It's not only great work, it's greater perseverance. Many times the biggest battle is showing the value of what you've created. Congratulations! I saw the UAOS on the R40 engine in the video and asked if they would put on on the engine they are building for my car right now. It was already on their list of upgrades! A few extra dollars for labor, but it will save me the busted knuckles a year from now. With the new engine and this UAOS I'm looking forward to the next 20 years of trouble free stupid grinning! Thanks for all your hard work!

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This just proves it's an awesome product. I have been following this closely since the beginning, I will be doing this to mine in the near future. This way my engine really will be built-proof. Yay

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You mean bullet proof? Yes as to the AOS, other parts not so sure. I love mine and it's my daily driver. Since purchased in November of 2020, two coolant leaks and a fuel pump. If a friend was going to buy one as a daily driver and had a budget of $30,000, I'd tell him to spend $25,000 on the 996 and $5,000 on a Corolla or Civic.

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100% agree. There needs to be a back up.

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Yes I meant bullet proof, darn it. I was pertaining to my LN Engineering engine, which besides the AOS has all the 29? or so fixes already done to it. No it was not cheap.

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Thank you all for the Congratulatory comments, it really means a lot to me.You don't know how much. The last 15 months have been tough but also fun for me, and the work is probably just beginning, and yes hatchetf15, I enjoyed the retirement while it lasted...I thought of the things I wanted to say in response ,and it seems endless at the amount and would go on for pages, but as I was thinking of the things to say, words just couldn't convey the feelings, and I didn't want to bore anyone with all that , I just want to say THANKS !!!!

Looking for someone to clean up this image and maybe enhance it a bit for visual graphics. Thinking of a black and white version, with the end goal I want is a clear vinyl sticker with a Hologram effect so that the whole image can be seen at a particular angle, then at other angles either the Silhouette, the Wrench, or UAOS can shows up separately as sort of a "Ghosting Hologram". Hoping someone here has experience with this sort of stuff, opinions also welcome.

I bet all your friends and co-workers thought you were going to relax and sip Mai Tais on the beach somewhere. Instead you've created a new product that is so popular it's keeping you busy enough that you need to put someone else to work. That's just AWESOME!

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I still feel semi-retired ( hope that lasts) and have put two someone elses to work..lol I get my share of Mai Tais just not on the beach...I just have more time to be creative by not having to keep everyone's cars on the road and maintenance caught up..There will always be plenty of work in the Auto Repair Industry simply because it is more fun to drive them than to fix/maintain them.... But I plan to do more driving and creative things, and in a semi-retired management capacity, than all the "grunt work" when you're just earning a living and supporting a family...( all my kids are grown). My oldest just turned 40, is a family man with a good job at the County, and just Won his second SECCA race of the season. Two in a row, he is on a winning streak !! A WIN at Bonita Lakes Meridian MS. Two in a row !! UAOS Black/silver

A little more "Carrera Look" and a little less "Turbo Look"... OK I got no more time to mess with this,(nobody into this stuff?) ... I gotta go crack the whip....I got UAOS orders to pump out !!!

i'll give it a shot tomorrow (have a bit of work stacked up)

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Thanks man, I had these 16G USB drives made with UAOS Logo, they were extremely fast (just ordered friday) and high quality, but I think the Logo can be a lot better.

So it looks like Porschetech3's discretionary income is going to go up. I've got a money making idea. Question: what is the most common advice to someone's post about just about any engine problem except leaking oil or coolant? Once someone posts the correct answer, I'll share my idea. If you haven't guessed yet, this is tongue-in-cheek. If it was a real idea I wouldn't tell you.

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Probably, did you do a search for it, what's the code, or RTFM.

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Should have been more precise, what is the most common advice on something to replace?

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IMSB, injectors, every suspension component, every bolt ever touched by a wrench....

I see all the time "I just replaced all my coil packs" or "replace your coil packs". Later posts and the problem is still there. I had a E320 that had twelve coil packs. Bought at 100k miles with what I assume were original coil packs. Sold with 250k miles and had replaced one coil pack. I'm guessing there are thousands of perfectly good coil packs in landfills throughout the country. So my idea is I'll buy your discarded coil packs for $5 a pop and pay for shipping. I'll test them and sell them with a life time guarantee for half of the price of new. This idea sounds more reasonable as I type. Send me a bucket of car care products and the idea is yours.

Part of my reasoning for changing them all was establishing my own baseline. These were the original 996 type. Limited service records and I�d like to know where I�m at. Was there a giant leap in performance, no, but I know where I�m at with maintenance items. Are tons of likely still good parts tossed in the landfill, likely, but I�d rather know where I�m at.

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Maybe some would bite, but it's like saving money with SuperTech oil, unmarked IMS bearings off of Ebay, and cheap tires. It's penny wise and pound foolish. BTW, I actually looked this up the fun of it, and for a C2 there are 205/50R17 SuperMax tires for $48.87 per tire at Walmart; would have to go Achilles ATR Sport 255/40R17 at $73.99 each for the rear, but whatever, we're saving money here! A set of FOUR tires for $245!!]

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You're right I went off topic. Was meant to be tongue and cheek. Let's get back to discussing the wonderful UAOS. I just ordered mine.

05 996 C4s MT - 75k miles - NOT removing the heads - no maintenance records. Wish Porsche would download maintenance records according to VIN. Tried when I purchased the car four years ago. Thoughts on replacing the associated AOS hoses/vacuum lines (4, 10, 12, 13, 20)? 996 PET AOS.pdf Just ordered the URO aluminum cooling hose connector. What have other folks seen on the condition of these hoses? Not looking to replace parts just to replace, car is in great condition but it is 15 years old and has 75K on the clock. Dropping the engine and trans to do the IMS, RMS, clutch/PP/bearing/flywheel,/bolts updated clutch fork and UAOS. While in there want to replace the plugs, coils, injectors, oil pressure relief valve/spring O-ring, chain adjusters, chain guides/paddle, cam lugs, oil pressure switch, heat exchanger, upstream O2 sensors, water pump/bolts/thermostat/hoses with plastic ends/T's, pully belt tensioners, associated hoses, O-rings, gaskets. Parts count and $ is not insignificant. Great car I plan to have for awhile. Appreciate the forums thoughts and advice! Cheers, Glenn

#4 would be a good "while you are in there" item, You already have a new #10 that came with the UAOS kit. 12 13 18 and 20 should be re-freshed with new if original, but can also blocked off when using the UAOS System. I think I'll start including 2 Nitrile block off caps and spring clamps with each 996 UAOS kit.That will eliminate a few more failure points ( although non-catastrophic), and will add very little to install effort.

Getting rid of 18 would be great. Any tips for cutting the Oettinger clamp on the lower end of 20? I have a large set of nipper I use for the upper clamp. But there’s no way they’re fitting down there to get the other end.

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I agree, #18 has been a "gotcha" moment for many, I have never seen it be root cause of catastrophic failure (Unlike AOS/IMS), due to the low coolant sensor catching small leaks, and the big "gushers" happen while working on the car...lol Small precision screw driver (like watch/jewery repair) can be inserted into the "pinch point" to spread the Oetiker clamp to get it off without cutting it.

Skip, Fantastic info, elimination the coolant side lines and feed thru. Replace hose 4, hoses 5 and 10 are provided in the UAOS. Line 12 can be cut and blocked off at 15/16. Line 20 cut an blocked off at lower clamp 19. Lines 9 and 13 eliminated. Hoses retained 4, 5 (supplied), and 10 (supplied). Anything need to be done with the open coolant AOS vent tubes 12 and 13 were plugged into? I will slide rubber caps over the open vent tubes and clamp. Does this sound correct? Cheers, Glenn

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You got the right idea, but instead of cutting and plugging 12 an 20, just remove them and install Nitrile or NBR rubber caps and clamps on the nipples. I will source the proper sizes/types today and let you know. I will start including them the in the UAOS kits.( and revise the Install instructions) Yes just cap the tube nipples on the AOS housing, clamps wont be necessary and plain rubber vacuum caps will be OK.( would actually be ok to leave open but wouldn't look completed or Professional) Correct, a new #4 if yours is original, #5 and #10 come with the UAOS kit.

What is the downside of capping the coolant flow through the AOS? Why was is it there in the first place? I just got mine back together after a UAOS install, so won't do this now, but I'm always intrigued by simplifying things.

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The coolant flow through the AOS was to act as a heater to keep from freezing water vapor in very cold temp at the high velocity pressure drop. In the UAOS System, that high velocity pressure drop is eliminated in that area, so no chance creating ice in that area.

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Thanks. Makes sense. Now I wish I had been even slower getting everything back together, I would have done this. But I suppose having the car apart 4 months is long enough and I need to get it started and tested. Install question: (I could start a new thread, but this is 50% related to the UAOS install.) Appologies if it's in this thread already, I didn't find it, but let me know. Since I had both manifolds off, replaced the fuel injectors, replaced the vacuum lines, and of course the UAOS, what should I monitor on the first restart? ​​​​​​I'm thinking: 1) Visible leaks (coolant / fuel) 2) strange sounds 3) all fuel trims (I have pre-install numbers) in durametric 4) after warmed up, manometer check of AOS pressure, then crankcase pressure (because why not; I also have pre-install numbers). 5) ? ​​​​​ Thanks!

Second question. Does everyone elses air intake sit right against the UAOS catch tank? It will rub over time. Is this a problem?

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Yes, check for leaks,noises, if all ok then check fuel trims. Checking crankcase vacuum with UAOS, and also blow-by will be easy for you since you have already done that.. The snorkel fit is very floppy on most cars and can have adequate clearance or not. The air cleaner is a three point mount and the snorkel can be very effected by the left rubber mount. a small adjustment to the rubber thickness mount will make a big difference in snorkel to Accumulator clearance..If the left rubber mount is missing or flattened out from time of use the snorkel will be touching the Accumulator. I have noticed many Rennlisters have a lot of trouble finding vacuum leaks on the M96 engines, even with a smoke tester. I think I will develop a method of testing engine for leaks using Freon and a Freon leak detector. Even the low end Freon leak testers will detect leaks as small as .4 grams per year, and the audible alerts and long bendable sensor probe can get to all places on the engine..

Is this the normal amount of gunk here or related to the AOS? I�ll make up the test cap next weekend. Ran out of time today.

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Yea, pretty normal...

Normal is good. I see a lot of the white milky stuff in the fill caps of air cooled generators I work on because of moisture and limited use so I try to correlate what I see to this.

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yea, its unusual to see an oil cap off an M96 that is perfectly clean...unless its just been cleaned or new...lol

Would the pink or reddish color be related to the color of the coolant? I replaced that this summer with new Porsche pink stuff.

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There should NEVER be any trace of coolant on the cap...I don't see any pink or reddissh......

Let me put down the beer and take a better photo. Oil analysis is on the way too.

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/8ca26cd7_6e78_49a6_ad9f_ca24bc808feb_86857bb2cca3bee17f05304fe689f89d77dff8e3.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/06546d30_d162_4978_98c7_4d509982c1d0_2aee0acff7dbcbff6634f6c76bef77041e4b724c.jpeg

I still don't see any pink or reddish.... Maybe my Toshiba Laptop screen is going bad...lol

New owner seeing things.

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Alright, thanks for the information. My airbox rubber grommets are actually new. I replaced them last year, and the airbox fit is fairly firm; but I'll mess and see what I can do. I am a little paranoid about having a vacuum leak. I had so much taken apart, and although I was as diligent as I could putting it back together, I've never looked for a vacuum leak before, so if I have one it will be an adventure to say the least. Thanks again.

That looks like the residue you get from the moisture collecting in the oil sump. Was there anything in the oil fill tube or was that completely clean? Doesn't look like anything serious either way.

You have me intrigued with deleting the AOS coolant lines. Hmmm.

I Have sourced the correct parts for UAOS coolant by-pass. Installing this along with UAOS will even further the reliability of the 996 by eliminating more failure points.. This is available as a kit from the website .............. ( www.ultimateaos.com ) and will be included on all UAOS kits for 996 after 4/11/2021

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Followed your advice. Mine arrived today. Now just waiting for my lift to be installed to install via engine drop.

So drilled holes in the extra cap I have and tapped it for a fitting. So this is what I got after running it up to temp.

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The -5.5inh20 shows your AOS diaphragm is not failed at this moment, but the consensus by the people/shops who really know the failure rate of the AOS suggest it should be changed every 3 years, unless you have the UAOS, then it is NEVER. IF you plan keeping the car it will save a lot of money/labor in the long run, plus is much safer/Advanced Technology.in the interim..

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You had me sold some time ago. I wanted to throw a number out there to see where I was currently. I need to have a look at the ims and rms too. With the tiptronic, it�s likely an engine drop so it makes absolutely no sense not to install your product at the same time.

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^^^ Wise thinking

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You make me want to hold off a little longer before installing the UAOS to make sure I capture all the improvements being released!

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I can understand, the good ideas just keep rolling out,I can't help myself, it's just what I do, problem solve ( patting myself on the back) and these have been around for about two decades..But I have no new improvements planned, all my time and effort will be focused on expanding coverage to 997 986 987 and to increase in production.If improvements happen, they happen. but I have no more planned for the UAOS, it's good right where it's at. Although I do have another Invention I have been working on a for a few months to solve another long standing 996 issue, can't talk about it yet though..

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Should I wait for that before installing the UAOS?

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Nope, don't put off till tomorrow, what you can do today !! There will be no "backtracking" involved it is a different issue and nothing to do with UAOS/crankcase vent system, that's all I can say at this point.

Skip, great to hear there is more cooking in the kitchen for us! I got my kit recently - thank you! Seeing the coolant bypass I'm definitely intrigued and may want to implement this as I'll be installing the kit soon. It seems to simplify the system and removes a chance of coolant leaks there. Had one question - I suppose Porsche implemented a cooling system on the AOS for a reason. Would removing it cause any potential issues when running the car hard in the midst of the summer with high humidity? I'm sure you thought of it but I'd like to understand this more. Thanks!

plpete84 - it wasn't for cooling the AOS - on the 911 - it was for HEATING the AOS. Water vapor that is sucked from the engine case, when in freezing temperatures could freeze in the AOS, preventing it from working. The coolant thru the AOS was used for de-icing. If I recall correctly, the Boxster did not have coolant flow thru the AOS, as the placement in the Boxster prevented icing without the warmth of the coolant.

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Yes, Tom is exactly correct, thank you.!! plpete84 no worries in hot weather, or even in cold weather when the UAOS is used, the high velocity pressure drop is moved to near the throttle body, a nice warm spot.

Cool - thanks for the correction! I'll see if I can eliminate those parts during the install. It seems like you're essentially plugging the 2 ports on the top of the sealed AOS unit and then 2 more, end of #12 hose and #20 elbow piece, right past that plastic junction that likes to break. Count that as another weak point being eliminated.

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Correct...That OEM plastic connector was improved with the URO All Aluminum one, but the UAOS by-pass eliminates that and much more, simple is better ...

Originally Posted by Porschetech3 View Post I Have sourced the correct parts for UAOS coolant by-pass. Installing this along with UAOS will even further the reliability of the 996 by eliminating more failure points.. This is available as a kit from the website .............. ( www.ultimateaos.com ) and will be included on all UAOS kits for 996 after 4/11/2021 I just talked with my indy about installing the UAOS in a few months along with replacing all injectors on my 996 4s. I will wait until after 4/11 and order the newest kit. I assume it comes with all the necessary instructions for him to follow? He hadn't heard about your invention and works on almost nothing but Porsches. Thanks

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This doesn't surprise me,how would he have heard ? I bet he has heard of how failure prone the POS Factory AOS is...lol Yes comes with instructions for the UAOS install. What is significant about 4/11 ? It's my birthday !!! I am putting the "coolant by-pass kit" in all the ones I am currently building ,but have some already "boxed" that will have to be "re-boxed" and don't like to be put under the gun..

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So I'm too late?

I can't imagine the right size plugs costing more than $2 at a hardware store. Just need to get the right sizes. That's my plan as I got my UAOS last week and glad I waited with the install.

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Two of them are high temperature and not cheap. Don't think the hardware store will have them.

I�m sure he�ll take care of us one way or another. Ship it to us separately or tell us where to get it.

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For those who don't source it themselves, Skip has them as a kit on the UAOS website.

Y'all who have already ordered the UAOS-coolant by-pass kit and wondered why I haven't shipped it yet, I seen another part I wanted to include. Part #16 in the diagram on some cars is a plastic connector/splice, I ordered a batch of brass replacements and just got them to include in the kit, along with another clamp. IF you have an updated hose that piece is "MADE-IN" and cannot be changed out, but if you still have the original design, replace it with the brass one included in the kit... Installing the UAOS-coolant by-pass kit will eliminate a lot of unnecessary coolant failure points... re-vised UAOS - coolant by-pass kit deleted parts This by-pass kit eliminates a lot of unnecessary coolant failure points.

Skip I just wanted to reach out and say thank you for shipping my new UAOS to my Porsche Tech's place. It saved a lot of time. It is all installed and works great. He was very impressed with the design and may have a customer with a 2002 Cabriolet interested in getting one. Your design and instructions were great, you both being Porsche Gold Techs made things easy.

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Thanks David, glad you are pleased with the UAOS, it;s been needed for two decades on 996 cars. I can tell you really appreciate your 996. Anyone who doesn't have he UAOS and the IMS Solution shouldn't spend a dime on nice wheels/tires, brake/suspension upgrades ect, untill those are installed, it's just foolish. If your not going to use the best designs (ie the IMSS and the UAOS) then don't buy Michelin tires, get Sumotomo or Kumho, don't buy Ohlins, get stock Bilsteins, ect. The engine should be first priority unless you just got deep pockets and don't care. Just my .02 Glad your Tech was impressed, that means so much to me, they are the ones who see these cars day in and day out, and know what they need.They see all the failures and do all the repairs.The 996 owners don't know what they don't know, But the Tech will remember the UAOS after he has seen it, and will recommend it to other 996 owners when the subject comes up.

Waiting for my UAOS to arrive, then it will be installed along with new bosch injectors from LN, a new 997 GT3 shifter, new front bumper lip, and a new passenger side skirt. UOA and DT-40 change as well.

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Wise words indeed!

Thanks again Skip. Finally getting close to finishing up my winter project. The UAOS was very impressive. I�m very happy to have it on the car. Sorry for the delay. We ended up doing more to the 911 than I would have expected. I also ended up buying the Ronin car. Always liked them and it just popped up. I don�t think I have that coolant bypass? But your UAOS seems to be on and functioning perfectly. Coolant tank is empty in the picture. Added a center radiator, LN low temp thermostat, and new water pump while we were at it. Added the RSS mounts too.

For those asking if the UAOS coolant by-pass kit can be installed "after the fact", without a lot of fuss, the answer is Yes it can. Just install the kit and leave the unnecessary/disconnected parts in place or near by for a more opportune time to completely remove.( or leave them indefinitely)

I started the install this morning and it's going pretty well overall. I have the 40 Anniversary car so some things were slightly different but nothing big. Got the last bolt without any issues and having all bolts be e torx made it easier actually. 8mm ratcheting wrench worked perfectly. Where I'm stuck now is on actually getting the old AOS out. On a 996.2, any tips on disconnecting the lower rubber hose? Super tight space and I'm not sure on how to get this off. The lower plastic hose that needs to be squeezed is also a PITA right now. Going to get some food and will come back to this...

Taking a break is never a bad thing. I get bitchy when hangry. Now that my taxes are done and the immediate fear has past. There always seem to be some mid year surprises... Is the plastic housing version likely available anytime soon? Forgive my frugality. And trust me, I understand the whole backorder thing. My generator lead times are abysmal at the moment. If unknown, the aluminum will be fine too.

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I used a pair of cheap Dollar Tree pliers that I'd cut a notch in with a Dremel.(I posted a pictures in this thread way back when) It's my go-to tool for small spring clamps. The larger ones get the specialty tools. (Pictures also posted somewhere in this thread) That was the most difficult part to me. I got one of these to try using next time I install a UAOS: https://lnengineering.com/products/p...86-models.html I've been considering installing UAOS and IMS Solutions for people who want it done locally. But I'm not going to be doing any for at least the next month or two.

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This LN Engineering tool or equivalent will help tremendously on removing the "quick connects"..when you can't get big hands in there You Tube The bottom drain hose and clamp are accessed from the bottom, remove the "spring clamp" and twist the hose to break the seal then pull off.

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Ah, good to know my purchase will help my next UAOS install. I have small hands, but they're attached to t-rex...err...squirrel length arms.

Thanks gents. After a quick break i summoned all the strength in my fingers and with two hands in there i squeezed and wiggled at the same time until the bastard budged. Not sure if this is unique to the X51 car but that plastic pipe that runs from one end to the other was a PITA. To get the clamp off I ended up moving the AOS around until i was able to pull it out completely. At that point i was able to twist it a bit and use medium angled pliers to slide that clamp down. Then just twist and pull up. The f**ker is out. Now onto coolant line delete. I'll probably leave the plastic connector in place for now and cap it at the top. It looked very good. At some point I may cap it at the motor but even though the caps are high heat rated I feel better about having it slightly higher and not behind the belt. While here I'll probably pop in new injectors. Following Pelican Parts guide and I'm seeing things somewhat different. Again, probably X51 differences. Fuel line hook up to the rail is different. Easy enough to figure out....i think hah. Thanks for chiming in. Taking a bunch of photos along the way and will try to put together a DIY

Once you get the AOS out, there is such a relief...then you start praying that the install is easier. It IS easier!

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Hah for sure! Just need to connect the tiny vacuum hoses correctly and let my ocd run wild cleaning up any grime and dirt as i put it together.

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If you decide to do it, I�ll bring my car to you. Need to do the UAOS before I take it to the track again.

Having mine installed by my shop today! -Matt

Many UAOS's being bought and installed, finished install pics are Welcomed !!! We all love Pics !!

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[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/a763163b_64c9_485f_823a_366fd9b46889_4f1ccc95d6523e9590de97ac7f6c0a23a03956c5.jpeg

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Thanks for the pic Zbomb, and especially for the "shout out" in your signature !!!! W.O.M. promotion at it's finest !!

Calls em like I sees them brother. No thanks needed.

All done! Not as horrible as I expected but definitely somewhat challenging. I also replaced my injectors while in there. Upon first start up with the rear still raised no gas smell or any other ones. I am however getting a rough idle. Constant up and down jumps. Giving it some gas and all sounds fine. I have a Durametric and not getting any codes at all. Anything i should look for? I'm guessing maybe an air leak somewhere? I may go out for a drive around the block to see if all is good under load. I have a DIY smoke machine i may need to bring out. BTW, that PITA plastic pipe that goes from the lower AOS fitting and attaches on the other side of the engine near AC compressor broke in half. It's been jerry rigged together for now with gorilla tape.

Sounds like you’re going to have to bust out that smoke tester and track down a vac leak.

The rough idle and surging is probably the Gorilla Tape leaking causing an air leak. Some Marine grade shrink tubing would make a Semi-permanent fix on that tube.

Thanks gents and I'm suspecting that as well. I may try to replace that middle section with a more flexible hose and see if that works. I did have slight hesitation when reconnecting all the small straw like air hoses. Could these be a potential culprit if not connected properly?

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Possible, any small air leak will cause it... here is a vacuum diagram I grabbed from the "vacuum chaos" thread...

Thanks @Porschetech3 ! You're a rock star! Seeing this diagram I'm 95% sure my vacuum lines are correct but will double check. I went for a brief drive to pick up some power steering fluid and under load the car drove fine. Power was smooth and no CEL. The idle has come down a bit but now it tends to more smooth but idles high at about 1200RPMs so the next step is to fix that damn plastic pipe, smoke test and start racking up more miles. Looking at the part numbers, looks like my original AOS was an older part, previous revision, so if this stops my oil consumption I'll be happy as a clam. Few random takeaways to add to this thread now that I've done this. - hope you're good at braille because you'll be doing a lot of the work by feel. There were times when I had both hands in the engine bay working entirely by feel. - give yourself ample space to work in and put all parts in chronological order as you take them off. It will make reassembly easy ensuring you don't skip anything. - My new favorite tools are now a small stubby 1/4" - 3/8" ratchet with 72 teeth and wobble extensions. The made working in tight spaces so much easier being able to angle just enough to get good seat on the bolt. - I'm very glad all my bolts were e-torx. I think getting allen head bolts would be more difficult. - The "bitch bolt" didn't prove to be much of a challenge. I was able to get it out with a ratcheting 8mm wrench working on both sides of the intake. This also goes for getting the AOS out. - The only PITA part and the part that I broke was the plastic pipe that connects to the lower AOS and snakes to the other side of the engine connecting near the AC compressor. At least on my X51 motor it had to be removed and we know how much old plastic likes to flex. Will need to fix or modify this to make it more durable. - Your phone has a camera and photos speak a thousand words so snap photos of everything you remove. It's nice to reference the little things during reassembly. - This is a very good time to replace your injectors as with the intakes out you will have plenty of room to work in. That's all for now and I'll be sure to update once everything is buttoned up. I have a bunch of photos so I may put together a DIY.

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Looking forward to your Pics and review !!

Pipete84 - Have you checked the one-way check valve to manifold? That thing can wiggle out. I had the 1200 idle going on. That was the cause. Also make sure the o-ring on throttle body side of diaphragm-to-throttle body is seated properly. Those were the two boogers I had to ‘smoke out’.

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Thanks a lot for these tips! Will definitely double check there. I ended up ordering the lower crossover pipe since it was only $50 and wanted to eliminate that as a possible cause and the fix is not the best, honestly. That way I don't have to think about it again. Possible it might have other micro cracks after I removed it. I will definitely recheck that valve though. I know I installed it back but will double check all the connections and the rubber Y and U connectors to make sure they don't have cracks. The plan is to start disassembling a few things tomorrow so I'm ready to go when the crossover pipe comes in from FCP. I also ordered a set of the RS engine mounts to replace the stock, especially since one leaked out all the fluid.

She's alive and running strong! Thanks for the help Skip and gang. Below are two quick shots of the installed product taken during yesterdays test drive / country road rip: I replaced that crossover flex pipe with a new one and boy was the old one shot by comparison. A little movement and you could hear cracking while the new OEM one had a decent amount of flex in it. I ended up installing the sealed AOS first, plugging in the pipe at the lower end and then threaded the pipe through the manifold sliding it into place. For the other side I found it the easiest to just remove the other manifold along with the power steering reservoir. I just removed the bit of fluid in there and placed a rag to catch the other bit that spilled. I had a new container of fluid so this was no big deal, provided enough room and I didn't have to remove the AC compressor. Then I just ran the pipe through the opening and slid the intake into place. Getting the two 10mm bolts was not too horrible. I used a extendable magnet to place them and then 10mm socket with an extension to tighten. The pipe that loops over the oil collector really needs to be connected properly as upon start up it got slightly loose causing hissing and an air leak. Once I got that seated and secured the idle has been solid - probably around 700ish RPM I warmed up the car getting out of town and took it for a proper rip on some country roads gradually giving it more and more and it ran wonderfully and pulled very strong. No CELs and idle still rock solid at stop. The coolant line to the AOS delete has been fine too. No issues or leaks of any kind and I pushed the car hard. Per Aaron's advice, I picked up a manometer on Amazon to have. My reading at his place were sky high 60inH2O and the cap needed some persuasion to come off. When I got mine I checked it again before doing this job and it was still high but not as high - close to 20inH20. Checking twice yesterday after the drive with the engine nice and hot I've gotten a reading of around 2.7 - 3inH20 and the oil cap came of with no effort. I think Skip mentioned that with the UAOS the reading will be slightly lower and I know I have an extra vacuum line running from the back of the intake manifold to the elbow at the intake hose to throttle body point so I assume all that is in line. More detailed photos in form of a DIY coming soon!

Looks good. Yea my car reads high 3's- low 4's so the numbers sound about right.

I got 2.7 as well after my install. Although after pushing oil at the track this weekend I need to re-run and see if diaphragm or blow by issues. I can now tell everyone from experience, the coolant LED alert for the reservoir being full does in fact work exactly as advertised. Good job Skip !

Thanks for confirming! Good to know the readings are in line with where they should be. And saw your other thread re. the light - good to know Perhaps it would be good to know what the part number is for the diaphragm in case it needs to be replaced. It's something you can throw in the tool box and swap out at the track in 5 mins if need be. As for me it's off to racking up some more miles to further track oil consumption and praying the blown AOS was the cause!

Pushing oil into the Accumulator on high mileage cars can be caused by three things,(1) blow-by @ WOT excess of 170LPM (2) scavenge pump failure (3) diaphragm (3) Diaphram :: 5 min test with Manometer 5 min replacement procedure on UAOS system (2) Scavenge pump failure :: remove scavenge pumps and visually inspect for damage (1) Blow-by @ WOT in excess of 170 LPM ::: Test blow-by with Manometer using the "Engine Health , Blow-by thread test procedure Oil Control on high mileage engines for Track Performance can be further "enhanced" on the UAOS by installing a 12" long 1/4" NBR rubber drain hose from the Accumulator to the oil fill tube using 2 -1/4' x 1/8 npt nipples to attach the accessory drain hose. Using this accessory will stop the repeated warnings light activation for high mileage engines used on track.. This accessory will be made available soon on the UAOS website www.ultimateaos.com I know most people here don't like testing the "real health" of the engine, even with the easy test procedure I designed, as evident by the number of people who have actually tested engines health. Most "don't want to know", and I can understand, if it still makes good power and no other symptoms, why care ? But his kind of detailed testing and minute hair splitting is what answers the mysterious questions of the unexplainable symptoms. Yes you can use the SWAG Method (Scientific Wild *** Guess ) when it can cause no harm, and err on the side of caution, but there is no substitute for hard work and real tests/data. The UAOS is the most Technically Advanced/Sophisticated Crankcase Ventilation ever designed on one of the most Technical engines ever built . There is a good reason why it has been an established routine to "replace the AOS while your in there" as has been done for so long most people don't even know WHY it has been recommended so much to replace it. The simple fact is that it failed often AND the design was not adequate. Porsche re-designed the diaphragm 6 times, but failed to a "overall system re-design" that it needed. No reason to ever put a factory AOS on a 996.

Skip - I’ll take the drain back when it’s available. I’ll be spending some time with the manometer this weekend.... which unfortunately for you, probably means I’ll be calling you at some point. I’ll have to go back and see how the blow by testing was to be done at WOT. Can you advise the PN of the diaphragm just in case.

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I'm always available for support of my Inventions. Now worries, my life is simple now that I'm Semi-retired. Although I don't think your diaphragm has failed ( it also has a 2 Year Unlimited Mileage Warranty) if you want one to put in your "Track Pack Tool Box " the UAOS diaphragm is part # 077103245B . I have tested/evaluated 8 different brands and recommend the URO for cost effectiveness/quality and the OEM VW for the Elite Versions. Some were very poor quality and one in particular sounded like a "Goose quacking under the engine lid", so stick to recommended Brands.

Thanks for that response, Skip. I'll have to modify my oil cap to do the Engine Health test you mentioned. No such thing as too many data points in my book!

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Thanks man ! I love the data/tests, I had someone do the test the other day that has 180 LPM of blow-by !!!!!

I owe u some numbers too. Time to get some small drill bits

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Yes, I'm very interested in seeing what your 200k+ miles blow-by data is !!! Have you ever checked the engine # against the DME data or the VIN data to confirm if it is the original engine?

Not yet but the year code matches the year the car is on the engine sn. I guess i can see what dme data i can get as i just bought a real nice bi-directional Autel scaner.

Very excited for the oil drain back. I'll order as soon as it is available along with the AOS coolant block off kit.

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Yes, thanks Kris, I know you were setting off the UAOS Warning pretty often on your high mile track car, it will be a big enhancement. To those reading, the UAOS Accumulator normal service interval is to be checked/drained at " oil change service". Most all street drive cars with lower miles will have little to no accumulation at 5k miles intervals, and as the engine ages, the Warning will let you know and keep it safe as it ages gracefully..

Skip - is this the right fitting for attaching to accumulator ? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...0049/300096270 I want to rig something up short term to see how much oil is actually getting caught and when. Thinking I'll run a hose from accumulator to a small coolant overflow so it's visible.

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No, the drain plug on the UAOS Accumulator is a 1/2-13 thread, commonly used on Mercury Marine engines on exhaust coolant and block coolant drains. Currently I'm using the Nylon brain plug and drilling and threading the center with 1/8npt threads and installing a similar fitting, but with 1/8npt to 1/4 barbed sizes. If your going to use a temporary clear catch can mounted lower off to the side, remember that it must be sealed !!

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K... I was going to use a coolant expansion tank - so should be sealed up. My nylon drain plug is a wing nut... didn't think to modify it to accept a fitting but I don't see why I can't.

That looks like it will work if the lid screws on tight, (ie, not a snap-on cap)..

Thanks Skip - I have the overflow and QTY 2 1/8 NPT to 1/4 ID hose barb fittings coming in tomorrow. Can you send me out another couple drain plugs just in case, just let me know how much and I'll shot you some dough.

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No Problem, PM me your shipping address again. ( updating my Excel files lost a few ..lol )

This thread was super useful in getting my UAOS installed, although I'll say it's a bit light on good photos. I think the job is very doable as a DIY but having some visual cues may help those that want to tackle this. Below is how my install went. This is specific to an X51 engine found in my 40th anniversary car but most of it will apply to regular M96 too. For .1 cars your AOS may look a bit different and the throttle body may be cable actuated. 1. Get the rear of the car raised on jack stands and remove the rear wheels. I placed the jack stands at both end of the rear crossmember. Once you have the car raised and secured go ahead and remove the air box. Don't forget to unplug the MAF sensor! Also, disconnect the battery. 2. Next we will want to slightly lower the engine but first you'll need to disconnect the O2 sensors. There is a total of 4 connectors, 2 on each side. They pull up from the bracket and unclip. With that said, keep in mind that all connectors and plastic is old and easy to snap so be gentle. 3. Next I removed the SAI pump. The goal is to always give yourself as much room to move around as possible. Just pull off the hose, 2 x 10mm bolts at the bottom and one 10mm nut at the top that also helps holding the expansion tank. There is one connector to be unplugged. 4. Now you want to lower the engine slightly to get some more room up top where most of the work will happen. Start by supporting the engine with a jack and a decent piece of lumber. Once you've taken the weight of the engine of the mounts we will undo the 2 x 18mm nuts that are accessed from the bottom. You'll be able to slip in the socket between the exhaust pipes. I'd suggest using a deep 18mm socket and a longer ratchet or breaker bar for leverage. Give it some liquid persuasion in form of PB Blaster or WD40 if these were never touched. 5. Now remove the throttle body and set it aside. Just about all bolts on my car were e-torx. I was quite grateful for that later on. I'll explain when we get there. I found it helpful to place all the parts that came off in an order that they did. It made reassembly easier and kept things organized. I'd also suggest to get some degreaser and clean everything. It's much more enjoyable reassembling clean parts than dirty ones. It adds time to the job but you don't want to rush here. 6. Next I unplugged the hard pipe leading from AOS to the first plenum. Then loosen the 4 worm clamps that will allow you to remove the plenum. 7. Now take note of some of the vacuum lines that run to and around the changeover valve. This will help ensure you get it all back together correctly. Again, pictures speak a 1000 words. 8. Now unplug and remove the tank vapor vent valve. I think mine is done as I keep on getting a code for a minor leak. 9. Now remove the retention clip from the U shaped hose and separate it. Now you will be able to remove the first plenum. The rubber sleeves can be slightly pushed towards the plenum to give you some extra room. A bit of wiggling and it should come out easy. 10. Now the fun part. Removal of the intake manifold, featuring the notorious "bitch bolt". As I mentioned before, I was glad to have the e-torx bolts. I used a combination of the following tools: a small stubby ratchet with a wobble extension. These types of extensions were SUPER helpful as you can access things at an angle. Additionally, the last "bitch bolt" was easily accessible by a ratcheting 8mm wrench. This means that if you don't have an e-torx socket, a multi-point 8mm socket will work. Just be cautious with the amount of torque you apply. This is how I accessed the final bolt. I was able to get the wrench on and few clicks at a time it came out. 11. Now with the intake manifold loose you'll be able to easily remove the second plenum. 12. Now cut the material that is holding the hard line leading from the AOS + coolant line together and set it aside. 13. Now unclip the top hard AOS line and remove it. There is also a long plastic cross over hose the goes from the bottom of the AOS attachment point to the other side of the engine, right near the AC compressor. This is what gave me some headaches as it was super brittle due to age and ended up snapping in half during the reassembly. I'd suggest getting a new OEM one for $50. Difference in amount of flex in new vs old was huge! 2 x 10mm will get that loose and again, the wobble extension was helpful. 14. At this point you should have all the intake manifold bolts out and the part should come out easily. You can see the oily grime I had at the lower intake runners. I'm assuming this was due to the failed AOS and part of the oil consumption. Be sure to plug all the runners so nothing falls in. With the crossover hose out you will be able to slide out the actual manifold. Again, be careful as lots of wiggling is needed to not damage that crossover pipe. If you plan to replace it I'd just snap it in half to make it easier. 15. With the intake manifold out there will be more space to access the AOS and removing that is the next step. It's secured with two bolts accessed from the top. I believe on .1 cars the AOS is mounted differently, from the side. In this case, I found it easier to first remove the two bolts, then raise the AOS to get better access to the lower snap in hose fitting as well as the clamp at the bottom of the AOS. Getting the clamp off is a bit of a PITA but I was able to get decent grip from the top after 37 tries. If you think you're going to loose it during assembly, it can be secured with a small worm clamp. You can also see here that I removed one of the starter cables. It was getting in the way and blocking my range of motion so better to remove than break anything. 16. (Optional) At this time it was a perfect opportunity to replace the injectors with plenty of room to work with. It's easy and Pelican parts has a decent write up on this. With the X51 things looked a bit different but it was a smooth process. I covered the new injectors before reinstalling. 17. Next I removed the other manifold. It was pretty easy and all 6 bolts were easily accessible. You'll need to remove the positive battery terminal cable that is attached to the manifold. Once that was out I replaced the bank 2 injectors. Once the intakes are out there was a decent amount of room in there! I cleaned both intakes and took some sand paper to the Porsche logo Nobody will see it but I'll know! Inside of the X51 intake I just cleaned up some of the oily grime at the top of the runners but the valves looked very clean. Thanks port injection! 18. As part of my install I did the coolant line delete. You can see the two ports on the sealed AOS plugged. I started installing it by first sliding on the lower L shaped hose and beginning the struggle of getting the clamp back on. You want to do this BEFORE screwing in the AOS. Once the lower hose is on you can reattach the plastic hose to the bottom port. Once that is on you can tighten the AOS with the two bolts. The 8mm multipoint ratcheting wrench was super useful here. 19. Here you can see where I plugged the coolant ports on the engine. I plugged the port at the bracket that tends to snap. 2 reasons I went this way. One, the hose unplugged easily and the bracket was in excellent condition. Two, I felt better about having the silicone cover further away from the moving belt. I'm sure it can be done at both spots but that's what I did and I've had zero issues - no leaks. When removing the coolant hoses you will spill a bit of coolant but not much. It was helpful top clamp the hose running from the coolant reservoir to minimize spillage. At this point you can begin reassembly. This is the time where I ran into the main issue - broken crossover hose. I was able to tape it together but this only ended up causing vacuum leaks and a rough idle and was nothing more than a temporary fix. As such I suggest getting that hose ahead of time. 20. At this point, once the crossover hose is attached on the passenger side and threaded through that manifold you can start to reinstall the driver side one. Once you get that loosely into place it's time to connect the new supplied hardline that connects to the top of the sealed AOS. What I've done for the manifold was start with the bolts from the back first. That allowed some movement to get the rear plenum in. You can actually slide in one of the rubber sleeves further onto the intake to help installing it back easier. Then straighten out the manifold and reinstall the rest of the bolts. Before you tighten everything double check that all the this vacuum lines are connected and routed correctly. Refer to the earlier image to confirm routing. This image was taken 3 days later once my new hose came in (see missing tape). What I did here to make routing it easier was remove the power steering fluid reservoir. It was either that or the AC compressor to gain more room to maneuver the passenger side intake manifold while threading the pipe through it. This was one of those cases where it's just easier to remove an extra part or two than risk breaking something. I had extra fluid and the little that spilled was caught by a rag that was inserted around the tube. From here it's home stretch. Reinstall the front plenum and throttle body along with all connectors and vacuum hoses. The bracket Skip provides works great and all the connectors are plug and play which is awesome if you hate wiring like I do. Be mindful when routing everything to ensure nothing is binding and that there isn't any excessive tension. There will be some due to the stiff hoses but all within reason. With the aluminum intake I ended up using 2 hex bolts I had left over after doing coil packs as new ones came with longer e-torx ones. I used two nuts that served as spacers to line up the collector and ease up any tension. I think the aluminum intake might have slightly different dimensions but all worked out pretty well. Once that is buttoned up reinstall the U hose secured with the plastic C clip. Make sure that's snapped into place and mine came slightly loose causing hissing and a vacuum leak. From there just reinstall the SAI pump and intake box and you're done! Overall the job is not super difficult. The hardest part is working within tight spaces and often using your fingers to see. There were times where I had both hands stuck into the back of the motor feeling for a bolt or feeling out available space so being comfortable with that kind of stuff is a plus. The tools that came in most useful were a small stubby ratchet that fit well into tight spaces (the thinner the better) and wobble extensions. Being able to get to a bolt at an angle was fantastic. Also the ratcheting 8mm wrench made getting the last bolt a breeze. Seemed like having the e-torx allow for more engagement points which was also nice when things were tight. Other then that I'll say to just not rush, stay organized and clean and budget time accordingly so in case something goes south you're not sh** out of luck. I took some PTO and did this over 2 days with the first day being mostly disassembly and half of second putting it all back together. It can definitely done faster but I stopped a bunch to take photos and cleaned all parts that came out, adding to the time. When the new crossover pipe came in, I had both intake manifolds out in less than 2 hours. One other thing to note is around the engine mounts. Mine were not bad although did provide some additional vibration for the engine. When raising the engine back up to tighten the 18mm nuts, the driver side mount puked the hydraulic fluid all over. I ended up ordering the RS mounts and installed those on both sides. Prior to the install I was seeing, significant to me, oil consumption to the tune of a quart per 800 - 1000 miles. Jury is still out if this fixes it. Hope so! My manometer readings were all over the place but definitely not good. I've seen as high as -60inH2O and around -20inH2O. After the install I've been getting -2.70inH2O and the oil cap comes off without much effort. Additionally, I've noticed that the mayo like goo in the oil fill pipe in now gone after 2 weeks. I've driven the car a lot and it never seemed to burn off but today I noticed it was all gone! Next is to get the prober drill bit and do a blow-by engine health test in hopes of getting some additional data. Thanks to Skip for putting this upgrade together and getting me the UAOS and answering my questions. Holler if you have any questions regarding this DIY. I'm sure I might have missed something...

Thanks to you for taking the time to document this in photos.

Great job documenting the process - That will be a great resource, one of the best I've seen of the process.

Thanks gents - hoping this will encourage others to upgrade too!

Great install post and pics. Plpete84’s install post should be moved up to the the first page.

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I agree !! There are some nice pics and very good tips/tricks and recaps of the install in here, but plpete84's post is the most detailed and picture heavy and the candid description of the process is hands down the best one yet !!!!! Thank you for posting this !!!!

Awesome write-up Plpete84!

Thank you for taking the time, Pete!

Skip - a bunch of orders should be rolling in any day now! Feel free to use this as a reference point to sent to your customers that may be doing this as a DIY. I've always been a visual person and learn best by seeing and doing so having something like this is extremely valuable to me.

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Thanks , I will !! The AOS problem of killing m96 engines has been way overshadowed by the IMS issue, anything that can encourage owners to upgrade will help the platform. Unfortunately the majority of 996 owners are not DIY'ers like you and a few others here. If someone "asks" if it's a DIY procedure , I usually say" no " given the difficulty many have had in doing the install and it's usually over something simple that a Pro would instinctively know how to overcome. So my rule on advice is, "if you have to ask, then the answer is it should be done by a Pro". But with your detailed "DIY'er point of view" on the procedure it may very well be doable for even the Novice DIY'er,,We'll see as more people do the install !! My opinion is every M/96 should have the IMS Solution and the UAOS installed , period.

The high mileage /Extreme Track Duty Auto Drain kits are now available as I have secured enough of the parts to offer these on the website.,@ www.ultimateaos.com ..The full kit with NEW Genuine Porsche oil fill tube pre-fitted with fitting/hose is $175, and the parts kit without the new oil fill tube is $75. These are suggested to be used on the upgraded Aluminium Accumulators only. ( the Carbon Fiber filled/Nylon Accumulators have been discontinued).. These are available on the website , if you have any problem seeing them, update/refresh your browser using the refresh button in the upper left next to the arrows. They will be located on the front page just scroll down.. Showing the Banjo Bolt Accumulator Drain kit with NEW oil fill tube $175 Chrome Banjo Bolt and Banjo fitting Nylon seals Showing view of Pressure fitting to NEW oil fill tube (145psi rating) Full Auto Drain kit without oil fill tube $75 /Chrome Banjo Bolt and Banjo Fitting / 3/8 NBR oil resistant rubber hose / 145psi rubber seal to oil fill tube / spring clamps Showing view of Accumulator with drain attached

Boxster and 911 AOSs look identical except no small water lines to the Boxster model and which costs less. If they are identical except for water lines which are not needed, could we install the simpler model in our 911s?

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They are indeed identical, and when using the UAOS Coolant Delete Kit either one can be used.

That's a great catch! My UAOS is still going strong and 0 issues with the coolant delete since my install. Went for a rip yesterday and checked the manometer values. Got -3.55inH2O. I finally modified my oil cap for the blow-by test at idle so hope to do that soon. It's a bit tight in there but I now also have the correct plugs for the TB line to be blocked off. Skip, I assume this should be done at operating temp as well, correct?

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The blow-by will be worst cold and best when at operating temperature. To evaluate and compare values the operating temp value should be used . The idle value using the .110 orifice and the WOT value using the .221 orifice are both important values. The WOT value using the .221 orifice is most important if Track Duty is to be used.

Awesome photos. I�m in process of this same job. I see you have 1 reservoir vacuum located on the left engine bay. I�m not sure why I have another one separate on the right engine bay connected to the resonance flap piece.

The second vacuum reservoir on the right side goes to the Porsche Sport Exhaust (optional). It pulls vacuum from a check valve near the resonance flap, to the reservoir, through a solenoid (PSE button) and out to both PSE flaps on the mufflers. If you don't have PSE, then you would only have the one on the left.

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Kris, I finally got around to install my UAOS kit on my 99 throttle cable car and was looking at your great write up and photos for your installation of the UOAS. I noticed that your air cleaner snorkel boot on the deck lid is missing. Did you simply remove it due ti interference from the brake booster vacuum hose? Was wondering because the snorkel doesn�t line up very well with the boot on my installation.

I installed the Auto drain tube last weekend. I opted to try to reuse my oil fill tube. I got it out without issue but when I tried to drill it to add the grommet, the tube shattered. Lol. So for anyone thinking they should try to reuse their drain tube, better have a new one on stand by. My car is way more fun now with the peace of mind that any oil now recirculates back to the sump.

I ran my oil at the 3/4 of capacity with no smoke and no oil consumption at the track yesterday... If you're tracking the car - do the drain back 100% The best engine mod I've done - and it's not even close. My fill tube only had like 6 months of use, so no worries on my install but knowing how brittle the one I replaced was, Geoff is giving some sound advice above.

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Actually, my boot has never fit well (it's an aero kit car) and has never stayed attached to the aero kit wing, so it was not removed due to the UAOS.

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ZBOMB. I took the chance and ran full oil with the drain back at The Glen two weeks ago and no issues at all. Another buddy who I also installed the UAOS on did the same and all was good.

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The improvements to the UAOS system (most notably the Track Drain) has allowed for the oil level to be ran at original factory designed oil level (or possible higher). There were three UAOS systems with Track Drain at Watkins Glen last weekend (soon to be more), this is proof of the performance of the UAOS system along with Zbombs data. There are two different dipsticks used in the M96/7 engines and are 99610701454 ( used in 996.1 and 2002 996.2 up to engine 662 11796) and 99610701455 (used in 996.2 2002 up engines 662 11797 >) . The later "55" dipstick can be identified by the two tabs on the side ( see pic below) and is 1/2 liter shorter. This was done by Porsche to help stop smoking in corners on the Track due to AOS deficiencies. The UAOS system with Track Drain eliminates these deficiencies so this lower oil level is not necessary original "54" dipstick 1/2 liter shorter "55" dipstick ,note the ears on the side For cars with the "55" dipstick the electronic dash gauge was also updated to a lower lever with new software to match the shorter dipstick..I would suggest that cars with the "55" dipstick change to the "54" dipstick and run at the full mark. This will give much more stable oil pressures in the corners.

This is huge. I had no idea. So with the 55 dipstick on my 2004, at half, I'm running at the low hash on the original recommended 54 dipstick? Am I correct that originally, running at half was recommended because otherwise the car would burn oil and smoke, due to oil being oulled through the AOS into the intake. That also risks hydrolock (well, oil-lock). So, with the UAOS, we should be able to run full, as oil will be captured in the reservoir. However, without the new drainback, it may fill quickly. Correct? Last, how does the UAOS drainback affect crankcase pressure? I thought the AOS diaphragm maintained the difference between intake and crankcase. But with the drainback, they are now direcly connected. Is that an issue? I'm not in any way saying I think it is, I only know enough to ask the question.

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All you assumptions are correct.. The crankcase pressure is not effected by the Track Drain-back, due to the relocation of the flow diaphragm is on the intake side of the Accumulator. The original AOS Cyclone, the piping, the Accumulator and the Track Drain-back are all connected and see the same pressures/vacuum as does all the crankcase. This makes a robust system that can handle/return/separate more oil from the crankcase vent system and is still emission compliant with safety features. Not using this system is just being satisfied with a "sub-par system" that is more costly in the long run..

Got it. Thanks! I didn't think about where the diaphragm was now compared to the reservoir. Hmm, I just installed the UAOS, and a new oil fill tube, before you released the drainback.I probably will run more oil now (3/4 to full?) I don't track the car, but I have a weakness knowing that there is a better, inexpensive solution out there that I could install... Do I really want to take things back apart?

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Yes, it depends on the amount of blow-by you are producing (eg. high mileage or Extreme Track Duty ect). The original intention of the UAOS was to be for normal car usage , the Accumulator is to be checked/drained at oil change service. On most all cars used in a normal manner there will be little to no accumulation in the Accumulator.in a 3-5k mile interval. With the increased safety factor and ease of maintenance/cost being the main focus. But the versatility of the system and the advancements UAOS have lead to a greater performance and the ability to increase oil levels beyond what was previously recommended by other professionals and by Porsche, and this leads to even greater safety and more stabil oil pressures .

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I ordered a new #4 hose and it has 2 bolts to attach. Current hose in my car has one, like the picture above. no idea why it�s different. The hose connects to crankcase vent valve, 99610704751 �03 C4S, 6spd de is getting closer may not be ready if I can�t get the hose. Part # would help. I ordered from FCP and verified parts fitment.

I'm a 3 day newbie to the 996 community with a brand new to me 2000 996 Cab w/ Tip at 32K miles on the clock. I've been reading up on the AOS, etc, and am at loss to whether or not my car NEEDS this upgrade. It's never tracked, but I do some "spirited driving" on occasion. If the UAOS is simply a better system, then I'm game. I've scheduled the IMSB replacement (LN Solution) which I BELIEVE requires the entire engine & automatic tranny removal. If so, there's no time like the present to get the UAOS installed. Having said that, my mechanic is asking if the part comes with written instructions? Damn good question as I don't want to pay him an hourly rate to learn how to install an aftermarket part. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!

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Yes, the UAOS is a better system all the way around, and is even less costly in the long run. Doing it while the engine/trans is out is the perfect time. Yes it has written instructions that come with it. ( although the install is very straightforward for a Tech) With 32K miles and no plans to track the car, you will not need the "high mileage/Extreme Track Duty Auto Drain" kit that is an optional . The schedual service is to check/drain the Accumulator at the regular oil changes 3-5k miles. On street driven engines that are not high mileage, there will be very little to no accumulation of oil in the Accumulator in the 3-5k miles service interval.

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If have an engine before # 663 09950 you will need hose # 996-107-147-55 and connector 996-107-047-51 , it has only 1 mounting hole. Are you running the UAOS? If you are doing a DE you really should be...you can run the oil at full mark with the Extreme Track Duty Auto Drain kit.

Thanks I was just going post the engine number so others don’t fall into the same problem.

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Yep, there is a mid-year engine number split for the early and late design for the hose/connector, Porsche is known for mid-model changes.

Anyone have the torque spec for the 19mm fuel supply line? I can’t find it on Rennlist or Bentley manual. found it in case anyone needs it.

Skip I sent you a PM on this

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replied

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Thanks Skip.. Looking forward to getting the UAOS installed!

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You will be very pleased with the UAOS-E and the Extreme Track Duty Drain !!!! Thank you !!

Looks like the coolant is leaking from here. I have it tightened all the way. Skip, let me know if i got the caps swapped or if it is not on right

All done. Thank you to all the tips and guidance. Helluva job. Kris, Murphy Thank you for your help and pics. PLPETE Thank you for your posts to as they were well detailed. Just one question though. Why cant the bottom of the AOS be shaved so the bitch bolt is easier to access? The UAOS is sealed so it shouldn't make a difference, right.

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Hi Red, That 10mm silicon cap should go directly on the aluminum plate that is bolted on the case below the alternator, just follow the hose on down to the end and remove all of the rubber hoses and install the cap and clamp. Install 10mm cap where the O is on the coolant plate.

@Red998 - Very glad you found the photo DIY helpful! Skip is correct here. You may need to pull the belt and pulley to gain better access. It's a good idea as you'll loose some coolant there and it will get on the belt and other parts. I'd also note that it's possible that your clamp is ever so slightly too low. That fitting has a "collar" towards the bottom and if you clamped on that or close to it you could be causing the leak. Perhaps try sliding the clamp slightly higher without over tightening it. If not then I'd follow Skip's direction to remove that piece completely. To clarify, I went a slightly different route as seen in my photo mainly as Skip's coolant line delete became available just as I was getting to start my install. What I did in my case was use 2 silicone caps on both block off points (smaller and a slightly bigger over it). They were a tight fit and ensured a good seal. I also used a slightly different hose clamp as they tend to provide a more even clamping pressure. It's possible that the plastic mount could have a hairline crack in it causing the leak. They are prone to cracking and thus is deleted with Skip's updated design. My set up has been running flawlessly since the install in mid-April. Below is a photo for reference of my block off method.

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Hi Red, I'll let Skip jump in here, but I think your drain tube is too far up. It uses gravity or the draining, and it looks like with your install the oil would have to go up hill to drain back into the case. When I did mine, I fully removed the tube and put it very close the the base of the tube.

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I'm with Kris - I was pretty **** about how I ran mine to make sure I got as much gravity assistance as I could. It's the hose with the yellow dashes as a differentiator. I can't say what, if any difference it will make in real life though. What I do know, my setup works and is directing A LOT of oil back into the sump.

You guys are both correct. I attached it as close as I could for now but ordered a new oil tube. honestly, I was at a pint where everything was just about together again and I didn’t feel undoing everything. The bitch bolt, rear AOS bolt were in place after hard struggle. I had everything just about buttoned up when I realized the mistake with filler tube. I figured when brake hard enough the oil should go forward. Most of the oil accumulation should happen on track because on the road I barely rev past 4K. Kris, I was pretty close to asking the RTR guys for your number. Definitely tricky job. Skip, huge thanks for making a great piece and sharing it with us.

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I love the 996 RL community so much !!! Members helping members on Technical issues just warms my heart. No-one can know it all and the sharing that goes on in here just helps to advance the platform. Thanks to Red998 , Kris, and Zbomb !!!! ( BTW I'll start dropping a photo of the location in with the written instructions for the HM/XTDD ) Signed;; Dr. h.c. Porschetech3

Just purchased the UAOS-AL version via your website / PayPal for my "new to me" 2000 Cab w/ Tip. Hoping it comes with detailed instructions (my Indy mechanic would appreciate that). We'll be doing this in addition to the LN Engineering IMSB Solution. Approximately how long will it take for delivery, so I can give him a heads up? Thanks! Joel

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Hi Joel. I got your order for the 2000 996 Cab UAOS-AL and will ship tomorrow. Thank you !!.... I have this kit in stock at this time.. If you are not Tracking your 996, you will not need the "Track Drain kit" (hm/XTDD), but I don't have any more of those in stock at this time. but I think LN Engineering has a few of the full hm/XTDD kits (pre-assembled with a new oil fill tube) still in stock. All instructions are included in the kit and will be no problem for your Indy, the install is really pretty straight forward for an experienced Tech., You will be very pleased with the UAOS.. Cheers !! Skip

Skip, Nope I�m not tracking the car�. It�s toooo nice with lots of options, only 32K miles, and a Cab with Tip so it�s fun car & my �other� Car Show car when I�m not driving my 928 Euro. I�ll try to attach a couple of pics. Her name is Betsy on display at the all Porsche car show Red Brick Reunion last week in Oxford, OH. Nicely optioned 911. Needless to say I love big butts�. I mean spoilers 😎 Lowered with Speedline 3 part wheels and Palladio Metallic paint. Love it!!

Great wheel choice nice combo of car color coordination Mike

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I got a chance to ship out your UAOS-AL today instead of tomorrow. The Tracking # is in your inbox,thank you !! I appreciate you posting the pics, WE LOVE PICS !!!!

Apologies if this has been asked before - 03 C2 with Tiptronic, is it possible to swap out the AOS with the UAOS WITHOUT removing the engine/trans as a unit?

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Yes, the UAOS can be installed without removing the engine/trans unit, even on the Tiptronic, although it is a bit harder to get to the AOS drain hose on a Tip. The AOS is mostly replaced from the top by just lowering the engine down to the crossmember , and removing the bank 1 intake manifold . There is a "bitch bolt" than has been thoroughly documented and covered in this thread that has to be dealt with, and the drain hose/clamp that needs to R&R'd from underneath (see pic below). The rest of the install is the same as all others. The usual shop time is 4 hours for the UAOS install in situ, or 1 hour extra to install the UAOS if engine is already out for other needs.(IMSB Clutch ect) This is for a 996.1 MT6, but the location of the drain hose on the 996.2 Tip is the same location.

Thanks Porschetech3!

'99 C4 Does anybody have any hints on routing the 15mm vacuum line and elbow that serves the brake booster, circled in red below? Seems like the only place for it to go is as shown, but the hard plastic corrugated line is very tight when connected. I was smoke testing the engine tonight chasing a vacuum leak and found that this elbow was leaking significantly. The o-rings inside are shot and I have a new one on order, but it seems like this is under a bit of stress installed like this. From the side, you can see that the hose between the diaphragm and the square UAOS collector is right in the way of where the elbow and hard line originally ran. That means I really have to push the elbow and line hard into the rubber hose connecting the diaphragm and the square UAOS collector to get the pieces together, deforming the large rubber hose: Another view: It works ok and I think I'll get rid of the vacuum leak with the new elbow, but things seem too tight to me, especially since there can be relative motion/movement between the engine and the hard plastic corrugated line as the engine is under load and rotates slightly. Any ideas welcome and appreciated, even if it's just "it works fine for me"- that's also helpful. Thanks, and thanks Skip for all of the great assistance in making things better! By the way the 1-3 EXH camshaft you sent me worked perfectly and the car is running great. Charley

Hi Charley, Glad you got the cam in and the engine is now working well !! Looks like you have an early 99 C2, pick up a Dorman 46051 and two 18mm spring clamps for a local auto parts store., it's a 15mm ID rubber elbow to replace the plastic elbow with the internal o-rings that leak. The rubber elbow fit a LOT better. I have been including the Dorman 46051 in ALL 99c2 kits (whether early or late) for over 6 months, so you have had that kit for a while..

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You're welcome !!

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Does this also work for 996.2? I also had issues getting a seal on this connection.

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Hi Joe, Here is a pic of the late 99C2 and up intake adaptor Late 99c2 and up intake adaptor This is a pic of the early 99C2 intake adaptor .. Early 99C2 intake adaptor You can use the Dorman 46051 15mm rubber elbow and two 18mm spring clamps to eliminate the internal o-ringed connectors , IF you get the early 99C2 adaptor part# 99611015151

Thanks Doc!

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Any time my friend !!

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Skip, The Dorman 46051 120 degree elbow worked great...WAY better fit and actually seals (unlike the factory one). Passed the smoke test 1st time. Put 500 miles on the car this weekend...running really well. Thanks man!

Kris Murphy and Pete Thank you guys! Dr. Thank you again All sorted and finally done as the oil filler came in. My exhaust had a leak so I swapped that out too. I had a hard time routing the tube around alternator but all done. Takes time and patience.

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You're all set !!! Looks nicely done !!!

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Good job Robin. See you at the track soon!

Hi Skip, I perused some of your posts and could not find therein a response to the post by Stalan, and especially a question from Jake Raby, a few years back regarding his modified AOS and (if I understood correctly) the fuel ratio response that was discussed in the Boxster thread http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-g...arket-aos.html . Can you comment how your system prevents the issues raised by Jake in that thread and how it addresses changes in engine displacement?

Cant speak to the displacement but it would appear that the UAOS has passed FSI testing, here's Pauls engine he just got back today :

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A rather simple explanation would go like this:: The Crankcase Ventilation Systems on the M96/7 engine are unique. They are sealed systems that uses a flow regulator that balances 4 forces for flow regulation ( Intake Vacuum pressure, Crankcase pressure, Spring pressure, and Atmosperic pressure). By doing it this way, it is a much more effective as it can adjust for blow-by volume changes from load changes from idle to full throttle, and more importantly for changes due to mileage/wear. The DME/ECU is calibrated for the extra water vapor/Oxygen that is in the blow-by gasses..Blow-by gasses have 13% water vapor, (water vapor is 88% Nitrogen 21% Oxygen). The Air-Oil Separation (AOS) is a necessary part of the Crankcase Ventilation System in the M96/7 engines to get the oil droplets out of the blow-by gases before they are reintroduced into the engine. Other attempts at "AOS systems" failed because they didn't fully understand the way the Crankcase Ventilation System on the M96/7 works, so in an attempt to correct "AOS problems" they created Crankcase Ventilation System issues.. Things like increased volumes of internal air displacement (eg large catch cans) and would not be calibrated to the fuel trims of the DME(rich running), or would use a different method of blow-by flow regulation (that is not compatible with Porsche DME/ECU) or would also vent to Atmosphere (Illegal) , or use a "PCV" valve with" fresh air" that is also not compatable with Porsche DME/ECU ..Most all these would be Illegal in the 48 states, the UAOS is Legal. Porsche even attempted to correct an "AOS problem" in mid 2002 on m96 engines by lowering the oil level by 1/2 qt. via a new dipstick and revised dash calibration. With the UAOS and hm/XTDD we are finding this to no longer be necessary and are reversing this recommendation.<<< THIS IS A BIG DEAL !!! Yes the UAOS was evaluated/tested by FSI for about a year and fully tested on an R40 engine, and is also available as an Option on the FSI Engine Program.

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Yes, this UAOS was installed by FSI during my engine reconstruction. I'm not sure it's the first one they did after their testing, but it is close. It was not yet on their standard list of optional upgrades. Before the car left for FSI, I had decided I would change over to the UAOS. The only thing to figure out was timing. Lucky for me they had already tested it. I believe it's also on the LN Engineering website for sale. A really nice and very useful piece of tech.

I have oil leaking from the oil drain tube. I did hand tight. Anyone else have an issue or solution? Other than it ran great in 100+ temps for many hours.

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Torque the Banjo Bolt to 15 ft/lbs....

Thank you Thank you Thank you

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You're welcome !!! I'm always willing to give product support !!

The UAOS will be Legalized in the 2022 PCA Club Spec 996 Rules for use !!!

Congrats. But that's gonna upset a bunch of engine rebuilders

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I hope not, they just need to buy them and install them ..

Got any future sales on this coming up? I'd like to add one of these to my engine rebuild project. Perhaps feature it on my channel too.

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LN Engineering always does a Black Friday Sale and has the UAOS in stock. I will be doing a May5th Sale (Cinco de Mayo) in honor of my youngest Son's Birthday ( he passed in 2019 )..

Hey Skip, I had a shop recently install the UAOS and at idle I get a intermittent vibration where the top of the pre sealed AOS rubs which is causing the noise. Any tips to solve this or is it an installation error.You can only hear inside the car and not outside at all. see video for example You Tube

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Hi Justin, I don't think the top of the pre-sealed Lifetime AOS is rubbing , there is plenty of clearance in this area. What I have seen is one of the Aluminum Coolant pipes can be knocked out of the holding bracket and touch against the joint of the engine/transmission and cause a very strange sounding vibration noise..Check the Aluminum coolant pipes for clearance to engine/transmission.

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Well we figured it out and had to zip tie it to get it off the body.. it was this in the photo below hitting the body .. what you said made sense as well. I see why now as they installed the flex line underneath the other line.. simple flip of routing should be the permanent fix.

Glad you got it sorted Justin, thanks for posting the Solution !!

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Pm sent

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Justin, you can also route that line below the brake booster line so it is not as close to the body of the car.

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yep as that�s what I did and said in the last paragraph of the post� 2min job is complete�

Whoever might need this - I took plpetes DIY and put it in a format that is more readable to me. I kept it open to suggestions and comments if anyone wants to add to it. Here you go: 996 AOS replacement (I suggest turning "print layout" off in the "view" menu)

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Thanks a lot for putting this into a single doc. As one might imagine this will get buried in the thread so having this doc attached in a DIY section of the forum might be a good idea too. @Porschetech3 feel free to download this and include with sold kits!

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Thanks a lot for this, I'll put Pete's pictorial on the first page for easy-to-find reference, I may even start including it with all the kits..Thank you both !!!

@Porschetech3 LN Engineering (LN) has sent me the following AOS. After I received the kit, I received a message from LN saying they had sent me the AOS for the 996.1, and would send me out the AOS for the 996.2. When I received the replacement, it was the same as the original one they sent (without the coolant hose attachment points). As shown, the AOS received from LN does not have the coolant hose attachments. As these are capped off anyway, is it okay to put the AOS (without the coolant hose attachments) in? I have the coolant bypass kit that has the caps to cap off the coolant hose attachments as they exist on the AOS pulled from my car. However; the AOS I received from LN does not have these coolant attachments points to cap off. I assume the LN AOS is an earlier version AOS without the coolant hose attachments. It is okay to run this AOS? I assume it is as this AOS is sealed off. However; better to ask the question than install the wrong sealed AOS version. AOS version received twice from LN Engineering AOS pulled from car with the coolant hose attachment points shown below:

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501Max, with the UAOS, the little coolant hoses do not matter ,you have the correct Lifetime AOS. The UAOS kit has all the proper caps,clamps, and connectors to remove all the little coolant hoses and connections. The warm coolant is no longer needed for the Lifetime AOS due to the diaphragm is moved to the rear of the engine close to the intake manifold in a warmer/easier to access location..

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Thank you- Don't know why LN stated they needed to send me a replacement AOS. I assumed that was the answer but glad to have it straight from you. I understand about removing the coolant lines, not needing the warm coolant, and capping off the other areas. I saw in earlier posts in this thread the Lifetime AOS having the coolant attachment points with the caps- Thus; my question. I assume all the current Lifetime AOS are being sent out without the coolant attachment/nipples. It is less to cap off (saves a minute), looks cleaner- and certainly works for me!

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I think your question was misunderstood to mean you had received a 996.1 Lifetime AOS, and was then sent another 996.2 Lifetime AOS. The UAOS kit has the proper caps to accommodate either Lifetime AOS with or without the little coolant nipples, but once the supply of them with nipples are depleted , only the ones without will be sent out. Glad you're all sorted now and can even help others with questions now that will pop up from time to time until everyone is familiar with how the UAOS works , it's benefits, and the differences in the 996.1 and 996.2 parts.. Cheers !! Skip

Here are is my first post about the UAOS from Skip which I installed on my 2002 C4S To start with first a photo before the UAOS install and yes you will see a lot of tubes which I done to avoid the AOS issues... At this moment I only drove approx 40Km�s to test the UAOS and all works fine thank to this superb invention from Skip (now finding out how to present you the photos... ;-) more to follow !) Before After

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Thanks for the nice review !! The UAOS definitely helped clean up your engine bay from those "other AOS things" you had previously.. And if you have the Track Drain you can run a higher oil level than before to help with oil pressure stability.

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Thanks Skip, yes the engine bay looks way better now !Cool I left 1 oil catch can on it. This catch can is attached to the nozzle on the right bank as during my experience with soluting the AOS issue with the tubes ;-) it sprayed a lot of oil out. Also before the first AOS failed, (I had 2 Angryarrgghh) there was residu found which for me is a no go as I only like dry and clean engine bays. Below you can see with the phote how I attached my last tube... This is actually a new OEM nozzle because when it sprayed first, I thought it was not working ok Before thinking about your track drain (which sound to me as a good solution) I first will check how the UAOS now works with my spirited drives in the mountains here. Will drive some and check how much oil your UAOS catch can has in it. So, actually you think I can only higher the oil level after the security from the track drain? Thanks !

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It depends on if you Track the car. or if the engine has high miles on it.. If you have high miles, say over 100k, the cylinders will have some ovaling and ring seal loss. This can cause high blow-by ( see my thread on Engine Health blow-by tests), the high blow-by will cause a high volume through the UAOS. The Track Drain will be necessary, the Track Drain gives another way for oil to get back to the sump.( where it needs to be) ..

A motor in a FCP Euro video looks like it has a UAOS.

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Indeed it does !! It's rewarding to see the UAOS spread even with no advertisements in Magazines ect, All on just it's superior design and performance. All the people who really know of all the deficiencies of the Factory AOS design, can easily see all the benefits and performance increases of the UAOS.. In a way it's good that it hasn't spread faster, due to Porsche parts are always issues in supply, and the last years Pandemic has made the supply issues even worse, so a slow growth is good for an Old Retired Porschetech who has slowed down considerably..

A certain 922 996 will return to Barber Feb 19-20 with Chin giving the track drain an opportunity to work and earn its' keep Thank you @Porschetech3 ! Time for a new sticker:

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You will be well satisfied with the performance of the UAOS with Track Drain !! Good luck and have fun at Barber !!

Hey Skip, was wondering if you knew when the UAOS CFN kit will be available again. I am ok with the carbon fiber accumulator vs the aluminum one. I will also be ordering the drain back option as well. Just trying to keep the price down. Thanks.

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Dude - I am cheap and value oriented, so it is very rare I would advocate for the gucci part... Get the alum accumulator, it is entirely worth the money, The construction is vastly superior to the alternative.

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@c210rg the contract I had with the company who I hired to make the Carbon Fiber/Nylon Accumulators had ran out and they tried to jack the price on them. I already had George making the CNC Billet Aluminum ones which are much more robust and beautiful that I discontinued the Carbon Fiber/Nylon ones. You will not be disappointed !!! CNC Billet Black Anodized Aluminum Accumulator with "Cotes De Geneve" finish

Thank you both Porschetech3 and Zbomb, I have no doubt it's worth it. The carbon fiber one was $250 less and was thinking of other things to spend money on that's all. I will order the now standard UAOS and be very happy. Thanks again for a great product.

I have ordered the UAOS with drain back. Will I be receiving a confirmation email or can you just tell me I am all set, either way works for me. Thanks.

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Thank you for your order, it is placed in queue, you're all set !! I will be shipping it out next week and you will receive a tracking # when it's on the way. BTW : I do need your year model to send the correct kit..Cheers !!

Thank you for the shipping info. I knew I forgot something, 2003 C4S Tiptronic. I am going to do the "blow-by-test" before install. My manometer readings are a bit low right now, 3.89 inH2O. Either I have a leak or possibly my new engine didn't get the proper ring break in. We shall see, also want to add data to your blow by thread.

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Thank you, yes, -3.89 inH20 is lower than expected on the factory AOS system. I will be watching/interested for your test results

Hey Skip and others, Got pretty far this weekend with the UAOS install. Last manifold bolt was not to bad getting out, I used a small 10mm wrench. The hard bolt on the AOS was 5mm socket screw, that made that easier. The tough time I had was getting the most forward manifold bolt started, my manifold was being pushed outward and it made starting the bolt and getting it down far enough to get a wrench back on it rather difficult, but i finally got it. The problem I am having is with the new tube going reward from the new sealed AOS to the accumulator pushing the brake booster hose up into the roof of the engine compartment. It is pretty tight now and I have not raised the engine back up. I don't see how it's going to fit, I tried other ways of routing, but it didn't seem to work either. The other problem is when I close my deck lid, the fan hits the new remote AOS. With about 2 inch's to go it hits pretty hard. I thought about cutting the hose from the remote AOS to the intake plenum to shorten it up a bit but that gives me less wiggle room to make that tight bend from the AOS to the plenum. It was all pretty straight forward up to here, any help you guys can give me is very much appreciated. I've included some pictures of my problem areas. Spoiler

Do you have the factory deck lid and fan ? I haven't had anyone have an issue with an 03 .. For the aluminum/nylon breather hose , the aluminum part should be angled down more away from the power brake hose. You should be able to twist it some in the nylon to clear. I know its it's a tight fit, but everything is on a Porsche...lol PS. you can also slightly shorten the rubber hose from the back of the regulator to the intake, that will set the regulator back further to get more fan clearance..

Hey Skip, it is a factory deck lid. The hose from the sealed AOS is hitting the intake manifold toward the front of the engine, so it wont go down any further and pushes it up against the brake booster line. I looked at all the install pictures hear and it didn't seem anyone else had this issue. I will keep playing with it and see where I get, just thought you or someone might of had this issue and had a simple solution. Yes it's all fairly tight but I'm use to that. Thanks again.

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I had the same problem with my 2002 C4S Tiptronic and solved it. Just have the brake hose tube under the tube from AOS to UAOS-Catchtank See next photos

Ya that's where I ended up at to make it work. Thank you for the suggestion. Someone else may run into the same problem and will see your post, so good to have it documented.

Yes, running UNDER will work just well, but the offset in the Custom Aluminum/Nylon pipe is designed to go down and over at a 45 degree angle to clear the brake hose and align with original routing. Some adjustment may be necessary, but as always "more than one way to skin a cat"..

Skip, a couple of questions on testing an AOS for health. Besides the obvious which is smoking, what other signs/tests are viable when determining if your AOS is failing? 1. Manometer readings above -5? 2. Engine begins to stall when removing the oil cap while the engine is running? 3. When engine is running its very difficult to remove the oil cap due to suction? 4. If you hear a muted but high pitched squeal coming from the engine compartment? Are these viable tests and am I missing anything? Would anything be different for the Motorsports AOS versus the stock AOS? Thanks man! Looks like I will be replacing my MS AOS with the UAOS w/ drainback shortly.

I think increased oil consumption is also a signed of failed AOS.

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All the things mentioned can be caused by failing AOS, plus fuel trim issues of lean running and CEL fault codes for fuel trim, and Hydro-locked engines in worse case scenario's.. The manometer test IS the definitive test for AOS function. But be sure not to just test the static vacuum, but test from engine off to engine run, rev engine to watch for fluctuations. Engine off should be zero inh20 and the crank and it should not over-shoot the spec , but instantly come straight to spec without over-shooting. Ideally the inH2o should stay right at the spec under any engine running situation. I have seen some failing that would go to 50 inh20 when first started but slowly come down to spec (5 inH20) in 10-15 seconds. It should NEVER go above spec. The spec for factory AOS and MS AOS is about 5 inH20 depending on altitude above sea-level. The spec for UAOS is about 1 inH2o lower .. BTW : just got a call from my Patent Attorney today to tell me the UAOS Patent has been approved !! After it was first denied by the USPTO sighting a Ford Global Patent and a Walker Industries Patent ( they were not even close, the Ford Global Patent was only for Turbocharged or Supercharged engines ect..lol) we put up an argument sighting the differences and the USPTO Examiner caved and allowed it .. Yes I'm thrilled, first time I have ever applied for a Patent !!

Skip, finally installed the UAOS in the kids car, very easy set-up to install and looks great. soon as I get the L&N solution done and install the motor and trans, I need to do mine. LOL I've had that kit long enough.

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Congrats on the patent! Gives you one less thing to worry about and one more accomplishment to appreciate! Thanks for the info on AOS testing. Manometer said between -4.5 and -4.65 on Sunday, but I am going to replace the MS AOS with the UAOS with drainback. I want the durability of the UAOS and the extra qt of oil. No need to loose any sleep over a potential failure. We have a driving instructor meeting this Saturday for the Chicago region. I will be sure to tell everyone about the UAOS and UIDS.

Hey skip after Jake raby your “Da Man” knowledge is king sir

Anyone got a manometer cap/tester setup they�re willing to rent out?

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Who is this �Jack� Raby you always refer to?

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Pm sent

From the spell check police Jake is spell checked

Thanks guys, yes Jake and I both have spent our lives deep in ICE engines. Jake started with VW and Porsche Type 4 engines and later moved to M96 engines and others. I started in 1974 in FoMoCo Dealership and progressed to Ford Master and Top Trouble-Shooter in the South-East till 1994 , then went to Mitsubishi from '94 to 2004 , then to Porsche from 2004 till I retired as Porsche Gold Meister all the while was an Amateur Racer and Designer.. I almost went Pro in the 80's when I had some big sponsors like Ford MotorCraft and Custom Creations, but with a family growing and the security of a regular job, I didn't take the plunge..And to be honest, the pressure from Sponsors took some of the fun out of it and made it seem job like, I had to back off..Two highly physical and mentally challenging long hour jobs was too much. I'm stoked about the UAOS Patent being allowed, since I am old and won't be around very much longer, I will leave the UAOS and UIDS to my Son ( Skip Jr.) to build with the help of George.

Skip, let's keep you around as long as possible to build on your legacy of two groundbreaking solutions and enjoy!

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Thanks Glenn, that's a good idea !!

After a long arduous journey, the UAOS Patent # 11,326,489 will be Officially Issued on May 10, 2022

This is awesome, congratulations!

Fantastic! It's a long process, but it's worth it to protect your work. It does 2 things: Shows that the invention solves a problem and shows that you are a thinker. I've been through patent processes with several start-ups. It's not always fun. You always start with the claim that you invented the universe, and then fine tune down to what you actually invented. Great perseverance.

Hi folksI'm toying with the idea of installing the UOAS, when I do I'll do water pump, and Low temp thermostat as well as the Uro alloy oil coolant thingy (not a mechanic, sorry). What is a UIDS? thanks!

It is the next patentable idea from Porschetech3. Here is the thread. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ds-v2-2-a.html It solves the oil starvation on long high G turns. There is another thread with alot of detail on the oil pressure drop problem from zbomb here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...bility-53.html Happy reading. It's alot.

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Smart. Don't forget IMSB and RMS when you are in there.

Congrats on the Patent! I can't wait to get mine and get it installed with the help of another Rennlister.

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Isn't that a weird "while you're in there"? AOS and water pump really don't have anything to do with dropping the transmission. I suppose AOS is a little easier without transmission, especially if an automatic, was that your thought?

Yeah, it was a little humor mixed with seriousness. Our cars are over 20 years old. It's about time everyone starts replacing parts if they haven't already. Aos, water pump and imsb are three of the most important items that should be replaced which can grenade an engine quickly.

I have a 99 c2, and doing the AOS install. Luckily I dropped the motor. Anyway, looking at installing this, there is an extra port for a vacuum line on the end of the line that attaches to the plenum. My original did not have this port. anyone know what this is for. I can just cap it.

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It's a vacuum port for the purge valve. On a 99 c2 yours goes over to the other side and plugs into the throttle body. All others use the provided port on the breather hose. Just cap it. There should be the proper cap in the UAOS kit.

Anyone have a picture of how they routed the auto drain? Behind the alternator, etc. It's tight!

Here's mine - yes behind the alternator. Follow the yellow dash'd line.

8 new model variations have been aded to the line-up of UAOS kits. 986.1 2.5 986.1 2.7 & 3.2 986.2 all 987.1 2005 & 2006 Boxster 987.1 2007 & 2008 Boxster & 2006-2008 Cayman 997.1 3.6 Early 2005 997.1 3.6 Late 2005-2008 997.1 3.8 "S" 2005-2008 These have been added to already 3 996 variations ( MY99C2 , 996.1 & 996.2) to make 11 total model variations and two kit variations ( Elite and AL) so UAOS 22 variations in all and the hm/XTDD drain back kit can be added to all of them.. These have been added to the website (same price) so just choose the AL or Elite and include the VIN or model year and engine size/number

[QUOTE=zbomb;18164284]Here's mine - yes behind the alternator. Follow the yellow dash'd line. Zbomb, Did you cap the drain hose at the bottom? If not, how do you open the line? And, if it just stays open wouldn't that cause a vacuum leak? Or, am I misreading the whole thing and this is the drain back to the oil filler tube...

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[QUOTE=Joel987;18234145] Drains into filler tube.

Well that makes much more sense. Does the line to the oil filler tube continue on a downward slope? I'd imagine we don't want a condition where water sits in a low spot all of the time.

The Crankcase Ventalation System on the M96/7 is a sealed system ( sealed to Atmosphere) , any leak to Atmosphere would be considered a vacuum leak and would cause fuel trim issues. This is the reason the all the other attempts to "modify" the AOS system to correct the problems have failed for 20 years. The UAOS is the ONLY way to correct the problems AND keep the system sealed to Atmosphere and to keep it emission compliant. The hm/XTDD is still sealed from Atmosphere so no vacuum leak , and yes, needs a continuaos downward ( or level) slope to the oil fill tube..

Is there a list detailing parts included with the uoas? The LN site states "UAOS for Porsche 911 996/997 models comes complete with Accumulator, Flow Regulator, all hoses, Microprocessor Controlled Infra-red Sensor , Plug-N-Play wiring, mounting hardware, fully assembled and pre-wired. a pre-sealed/modified "lifetime AOS" is included with each kit." Does it come with all the parts in the FCP euro kit,, link below, for example? Or more? If so then the UAOS seems to be an easy decision.... Please let me know? Thanks! ​​​​​​ https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...enuine-porsche

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Here is a picture of what is in a typical 996.2 UAOS kit plus an aluminum change-over valve relocation bracket, screws and a tamper-proof T27 bit for installation. Plus the kit comes with a coolant by-pass kit that eliminates all these parts/hoses. But the UAOS kit's do NOT include part #4 and #6 , everything else the diagram is either included or eliminated ...

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Thank you, very helpful! I'll talk to my Indy on Monday, he's doing some other stuff for me this week.

I would also get a couple of containers of elbow grease.

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I don't have a garage and live in a townhome. Plus I'm lacking in tools, strength, and most importantly, skills. So, I am blessed to have a superb Indy literally 1 mile away, Talin runs Import Performance here in Wilmington, and has mad skills. His work so far done on my car, and all cars he wrenches, afaik is superlative. He guarantees his work for 3 years and 36k miles, his hourly rate is very reasonable, at the low end of what you might expect, and he does not mark up parts like I've heard some do. Plus his skills mean less hours. The guy is a gem. Thank you Indy mechanics! It would be great if I had a garage, lift, and a second car so I can take my time and make mistakes, but all in all I'm happy with my situation. Don't get me wrong, I've done some stuff, painted my wheels, installed my new speakers and pccm plus, FF shift right, and some other little things, and I'll do more as time allows. Retirement is not far off, and I'm going to retire in small town Nova Scotia. I'm planning on extending the old coach house and installing a lift, and I'll have plenty of time to work on things then.

@Porschetech3 Couple of questions for you Skip. Besides the sensor, how this is any different than a typical catch can that a lot of the Spec E46 guys use? It's a recirculating design with improved separation capabilities that you can open a valve and drain any excess oil that is collected back into the sump. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...ch-can-system/ What is the highest number of miles that you have on a "lifetime" AOS and what basis are you using for this claim? If you are bypassing the coolant lines and adding a separator, why didn't you just delete the stock AOS form factor at the point? It doesn't seem like an efficient design. There are plenty of race shops, racers, and builders that use the stock AOS without issue. What data do you have that this is actually a problem and not just a chance to profit through spreading fear? (which is a very effective tactic I might add).

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I'll speak to my experience with your question number 4. The data I have to share that is pertinent would be found in the oil pressure thread, this specifically addresses the additional oil capacity I have run with the addition of the drain back to my UAOS system. Anecdotally, The AOS was replaced on my car days before I picked it up with a factory unit by Orbit Racing in FL. I drove the car on the street for a year and the following year started doing track days. Working off memory, but I'm sure can be validated by going through my posts on here, I started seeing plumes of smoke on startup between each session. I pulled the plenum off and saw oil pooled in the depressions in the intake manifold. I ran with the factory setup like this, lowering the oil fill level to try to accommodate until I did not feel it safe to lower any further, the issue persisted. I replaced the factory part with the UAOS and saw an immediate cessation of the oil plumes on startup, now relegated to only on occasion, likely the first start up after the car had sat after a track day. Fast forward, literally - the car is getting faster and I start seeing that i am filling the reservoir up, it got to the point where this was happening every session. It got to the point where I added an additional external reservoir to catch oil that would drain out of the primary UAOS reservoir. The oil volume being caught was frightening. Again, details of this are in my thread, so feel free to check it out as I can't remember the specifics off hand. This is when Skip offered the drain back, he was kind enough to send me one of the first made to install for free and I replaced my reservoir into reservoir setup. Since that time, A puff of smoke from the intake is rare, although it does still happen from time to time. The major benefits I have seen from the part SINCE the drain back has been introduced are listed below: Oil consumption, my consumption is 1/8QT per session and it does not change. Oil capacity, This season I have been running 11.75QTS - there has been, and can be validated, a measurable improvement in oil pressure stability as a result of this change only. I had got down to 10QTS (working off memory) previously in attempt to keep oil out of intake. Frustration, I battled keeping oil out of the intake / managing oil level problems for 2 seasons, I was done with it and without the drain back, there is no way the M96 would be in the car. These issues may be specific to my car, but I hope they shed some light on my use case.

I will echo @zbomb experience. Was on the back straight at Watkins last year and saw a huge plume. Lots of oil in the intake. Also we know through skip that the 996.1 has a shorter dipstick and the Mk2 was lengthened to try to alleviate these occurrences. With the UAOS we all get to run extra oil. I have zero oil consumption and run the same 11.75 qts.

I'm not as intensely well versed in this as some are, so please excuse this question if it's obvious: is the 11.75 quart figure on a stock sump, or one of the deep sumps, and if so which?

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LN 2QT deep sump for me.

Guys if you don’t like the product just don’t buy it I think uaos has enough buyers and time under use to show if works or not and judging by skips diligence I trusted him enough to buy the uids blindly I was his first paid customer I haven’t installed it yet it will part of a solution/clutch replacement in the near future again it’s always buyer beware!!!

The UAOS is a simple, elegant solution to a poor design. Any sort of diaphragm like this will eventually fail, Skip’s design makes it a 10 min job to replace, instead of a truly miserable job. I’ve put one of his very early DIY ones in my car, as well as the newer complete kit in another car. Kit is nice and evolved since my very early one. On top of that, Skip is one of the most experienced and truly helpful people on this forum.

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@Slakker Since the Patent on UAOS has recently been issued May 10, 2022 (but was filed Dec 29, 2019 ....18 months ago) I will walk you through the design beginning to end in a simplistic over-view ( there is much more detail and physics in the design than can be explained in a single post) Yes it can get very complicated depending on how deep you dive into it... To start the UAOS takes the AOS and modifies it so the the bulk of oil never even gets into it to begin with, then the atmospheric port in the AOS is sealed from atmosphere which disables the "diaphragm" flow control that is 95% of the failing mode in the Factory AOS and MAOS, then uses a custom made breather hose from AOS to Accumulator, Accumulator is a special design internal and exteral to fit the engine compartment and acts as a secondary AOS. The Accumlator has Infra-red Optical Microprocessor Sensor to detect unsafe levels of accumulation and a custom plug-n-play wiring harness that just plugs into the factory harness and "slow blinks" the coolant warning light on the dash if there is any problem.The drain on the Accumulator for Track Version has a continuous drain that drains to the adjacent "oil fill tube" so that all oil stays in the engine/sump and not in the "AOS system".. Custom hose then comes from the Accumulator to the "flow regulator/diaphragm " mounted in an easy access location that can literally be replaced in minutes.. Then from the flow regulator/diaphragm to the intake through another custom hose with OEM Norma V2 quick connector. And since the flow control diaphragm is moved to an easier location to access that also much warmer, the coolant system that is the other 5% of the failures mode is no longer needed and is caped/by-passed elimination may failure points and unnecessary parts.. Part of the beauty of the UAOS is it "looks" like a OEM system with just a simple "catch can" , but is WAY WAY more. All for a merely $710usd, ( but is fixing to go up due to every thing that goes into it has/is going up).. Now to beat up on your $350 BMW "catch can"..1.It is just a "universal catch can" 2.it will fit in the space limited engine compartment of a Porsche like a "wart on a frog"3.none of the hoses are OEM Norma V2 compatable..4 . it does not drain back to the Sump..5 .it doesn't address the problem of oil getting into the system to begin with 6. It doesn't have a Sensor or wiring harness 7 It does nothing to address the problem of the AOS diaphragm failing so often 8.It does nothing to address the difficultly in replacing the "diaphragm" of the flow control 9. I think $350usd is over-priced for that "thing"... Now to answer your 4 questions .. Question :::Besides the sensor, how this is any different than a typical catch can that a lot of the Spec E46 guys use? It's a recirculating design with improved separation capabilities that you can open a valve and drain any excess oil that is collected back into the sump. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...ch-can-system/ Answer ::that was covered above, and to be clear the re-circulation mentioned in the "Catch Can Add" was referring to re-circulation of the gasses for emission compliance ( closed system), not oil re-circulation to the Sump., they just mentioned it could be drained without "removing"... 2.Question ;;What is the highest number of miles that you have on a "lifetime" AOS and what basis are you using for this claim? Answer :: This is based on laboratory tests on PA66/GF35 ( polyamide ( Nylon) 66 with 35% glass filled) , which is the materail that the AOS is made from ,tests were performed under continuous high temperature and extremely high pressures and concluded that life expectancy of the material under those circumstances was 37-45 years.Under Automotive use would easily be double that and would be considered a "Lifetime" and is why I put a "Lifetime" Warranty on the AOS that is included in UAOS, because it uses the body material ONLY. It makes a good way to connect the hoses to the engine.. 3.Question ;;If you are bypassing the coolant lines and adding a separator, why didn't you just delete the stock AOS form factor at the point? It doesn't seem like an efficient design. Answer :: Because using the oem AOS in the modified form IS efficient. Building a Billet Aluminum replacement, or an injection molded replacement in PA66/GF35.is NOT efficient and would raise the cost significantly and unnecessarily, and building a 3D printed one would not be as durable or "Lifetime".. The oem aos makes a good place to connect the hoses and it still does a more efficient job after modified.And still "looks' OEM.. 4.Question;;There are plenty of race shops, racers, and builders that use the stock AOS without issue. What data do you have that this is actually a problem and not just a chance to profit through spreading fear? (which is a very effective tactic I might add). Answer :: You yourself have already stated that you "proactively" replaced your AOS every 100 hours/5k miles ( which is ridiculous to have to do when it cost $600-to $800 just labor to replace AOS once ) so you are well aware of the failures. Most knowledgeable Porsche shops recommend replacing OEM AOS every 3 years so they are aware also..and Zbomb and hdunn have already gave there testimony and many others have also. Thousands of post here to confirm this. The Factory AOS problem is actually worse than most people think. Many engines are destroyed that the cause is never known because oil is everywhere and is expected to be every where when an engine is destroyed and AOS is not suspected. But many HAVE been verified as AOS failure causing bent/broken rods, cracked cylinders. ect..Yes I have replaced m96 engines under Factory Porsche Warranty due to AOS failure causing hydrolock. Any engine that has had a catastrophic failure of a rod,piston, or cylinder, if the big end of the rod/bearing has not turned "blue" from lack of lubrication, the AOS need to be suspected and tested for cause of failure...Send it to me, I can bench test to confirm if it caused the failure or not.. @Slakker I know your "trolling" me, but I felt like answering you anyway on AOS. But don't "troll" me anymore plenty of info can be found on what I have said in this thread or this one https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...t=Ultimate+AOS read them untill you have changed your mind on UAOS.." the mind is the hardest thing to change" and yours may be impossible..

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Thanks very much Joe !! That's what makes for a great design...It's very simple to understand and use and robust yet ,down deep it is very complicated. Porsche has many such things on them that are that-away, I called them layered technology... Very simple and user friendly to understand the technology on the top layer, but very very complex.on the second layer technology, some even have a third layer that gets back to a more simple version. For example the engine computer, you have diagnostics on the OBDII level with more simple versions, then you have PIWIS level, that gets really deep into programming and coding, and actual values, special functions, then you Factory Special equipment level ..

Slakker, I went thru 2 aos back in the mid 2000s on the track. Went to the motorsports aos after. Just replaced my motorsports aos a couple of months ago with the UAOS track version with the drain back. My motorsports aos failed in my garage when I started my car. It was a no brainer to replace with uaos. Take a look at Jason's "Oil stability" thread. You will see how the drainback developed on the track as well as the ability to run an extra quart of oil.

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Not arguing that there are people that have issues with the stock AOS, and the motorsports version is just a larger version of the same thing. But an AOS is a cheap and easy replacement on a track car at whatever your major service interval is (I uses 100 hours for mine, or 100k miles for street). By simply using the coolant bypass piece of this solution, a person could eliminate the "dreaded intermix" failure that seems to cause so much fear. I do like that UAOS allows for running a higher oil level than a stock or motorsport AOS, though. But this is literally the same concept that the BMW's have been using for years to bypass their CCV (similar to our AOS). I'm only trolling Skip's bravado that this is some kind of an original idea. The BMW catch cans drain back into the oil tubes just like this one. I also think it could be done less expensively by eliminating the original AOS, which Skip states isn't doing anything anymore, and just plumb over to actual separator with hoses and adapters.

Coulda, woulda, shoulda is something we can all say about things that should have been developed for the 996. But the reality is that Skip did it. Nobody else did. Look man, don't know what your objective is here, but if you don't want the UAOS and are perfectly happy with brittle AOS then stick with it. What puzzles me is that you haven't run into anyone with problems with the AOS. I was a track nut from 2004-2018 and ran into it just about every track day with someone suffering from it. He'll, I was just at Road America with the Chicago region over memorial day talking to a guy that started tracking his 996C4S this season and was miffed about blowing oil. I explained to him about what was happening and to get a UAOS and why. Let's stop with the belly aching and start with the applause that Skip had the ***** to build it.

@Porschetech3 Yes, I will tend to troll people that make statements that I don't understand or I think could potentially be false. So I appreciate you taking the time to respond. As consumers, it's the only protection we have from "trust me" marketing claims which we have all been burnt by in the past. Statements such as "lifetime" and "I know more than anyone else" are red flags that typically will prompt me to dig a little deeper. Two more follow-up questions: Do you have any before and after data showing how much engine temperatures increase when adding the coolant bypass? As a relatively new company with only two products and limited production capabilities, how will the "lifetime" guarantee be honored if you move on to other things or are unable to do this anymore? And then just an observation. Normally, in other industries I have worked in, an environmental chamber is used to stress products as a whole, and then mean time between failures are calculated and provided before making any type of a claim like this. I've never seen where someone changed materials for one specific component and then used that material's rating as the rating for the entire product. Just something to think about. Again, thank you for your time spent responding.

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Yeah, mine lasted less than three years and less the 2,500 miles on the street. I'm ordering the UAOS soon as I hear back from my Indie. "The OEM is garbage" is my experience...

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Dude, even though I have owned my 996.2 for 20 years, i have only been on rennlist since the end of 2019 because i couldnt take the belly aching, bs and false information that is typically passed on by folks that have no idea what they are talking about. But I got involved because I was looking to see if any further developments have occurred in the 996 world for oil and cooling issues. What you find is there are those guys that are the guys with mechanical experience, tracking experience, pretty stuff experience and then everyone else. Skip has earned my respect and trust with what he has provided this community with advice and inventions. Yes, everybody should ask questions. But there is no need to be an *** about it. You got a problem, contact him directly. The last thing we want or need in the 996 world are guys with the knowledge and experience to develop these solutions that choose not to share them with the community because they just don't want the headaches created by folks that think they are Ralph Nader. Come on man...

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Stock and Motorsport AOS's will blow smoke, every time, if you overfill them. It is not a sign of them going bad, it is a sign of the oil being overfilled. And typically it happens when someone adds oil based on the dipstick on a hot engine. My guess is that it's the main reason that Porsche removed the dipstick and requires up to a 60min wait period for the oil to be measured for the 987/997. I may be a potential customer if I have a stock engine that is showing oil pressure under 20 or 25 psi and I've provided some reasonable observations that might help him lower his cost to be more inline with how the problem was solved for the BMW's. I've questioned some of his "bolder" statements but I don't feel like I've caused any harm in the process, especially by RL standards.

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Slakker, not certain if you been reading any of this stuff and grasp the issues. No ****... Of course they blow smoke at full oil. Have known this for 20 years. MAOS works better at full oil than does the AOS. I found that out in 2006. Go back to Skips pictures on the Motorsports AOS thread where he shows the MAOS is bigger, but it still drains at the same rate at the AOS. He addressed that with better draining with the UAOS track version that was tested on Zbombs oil stability thread. Look, if you have better design then bring it out. If not, stop with the belly aching.

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@Slakker You certainly are a troll,and a hard headed one at that.I'm positive you haven't read all of what I have said about the UAOS over the last two years, so I'm not surprised you are not "up to Speed". But I find your lack of knowledge strangely amusing, and the fact that you "misquoted" things I even said directly to you yesturday makes me wonder if you really have a hidden agenda.? And I would really appreciate your posts/questions being limited to one or paragraphs. I am not a Journalist, My older Sister and her husband were, She wrote for Encyclopedia Britannica, and He was Editor of NYT for 25 years, but neither had any of what we call common since/practical since..I hate to read or write really long posts.. First off I never said that in the UAOS that the modified AOS does "nothing", I said that the "body' is all I "use"....I disable the "heating function" and the "diaphragm flow control function" which are 100% of the failure modes to the AOS, and I "modify" the AOS in 2 ways to make it "way more efficient" ,, so yes as I correctly described it does do it's job even better, but I didn't stop there, the rest is icing on the cake.. It is a full package, fully redesigned and much Superior.. Oh and the coolant temperature does not change one iota whether the AOS is by-passed or not, that is just a silly assumption/question that shows you are really not qualified to be asking or you are simply Trolling with an agenda.. Oh and the Lifetime warranty dies with me .....my lifetime, or if my Son takes over the Patent he will honor it.. BTW what AOS system are you planning on running on your NEW Build?? Let me beat up on it a bit instead of being on the defensive of the UAOS..

@Porschetech3 Apologies, I will be brief. Asking about engine temp. Not sure what other purpose coolant through the stock AOS would serve but I'm open to learning... Thank you for clarification on "lifetime" being yours or potentially more. That makes sense to me. FYI, commercial insurance companies offer "warranty bonds" that would allow you to provide a more tangible answer, if desired. @GC996 I think it's great Skip has fans like you to support him. Skip has helped me out many times over the years and I've been one myself. But I tend to gravitate towards humble grease monkeys and am partially just trying to understand what changed... On the failed AOS's you mentioned, what failed on them and how was it determined? I'm always interested in data, even if anecdotal.

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Look man. Enough of going around in circles. We have discussed what fails on the AOS and MAOS as well as their short comings for 20+ years. My suggestion to you is to get the grease monkey experience you reference by talking to as many Porsche Indies that support the M96 engine in PCA events as you can. He'll, we talked about this crap every freaking track day from the first time I stepped foot on the track in 2004. I am miffed on why you never heard of this. Absolutely miffed?! Regarding Skip helping you out in the past, thats great. But i would hate to see how you treat your enemies after your treatment of Skip, a guy that most likely helped you out many times in the past.

Not relevant

Quotes source post: 18290482

@Slakker Why don't you ask your engine builder the purpose of the coolant running through the AOS is. Then come back and tell us all what he/they said, I and will say if it is correct or not... That way we will both learn something..You will learn why the coolant is ran through the AOS is the first place, and I will learn what your engine builder thinks Oh BTW you forgot to say what AOS system your are going to use..

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@Porschetech3 If you are referring to Hartech, technically they will be my machinists. They inspect the stock AOS and replace it if necessary on the engines that they build. And I think they may have tested a previous version of yours that still had some issues, and decided to pass. But I will use a stock AOS as well, just as the shop that I've considered my "race build mentors" all of these years, does themselves. And I'll have a build thread for my engine that shares what I know and provides an opportunity for me to continue learning from others questions and observations. But back to the data. With engine temps being such a huge factor on track, it just seems like good engineering to me to test the impact of removing factory cooling on the AOS before marketing a product that deletes it. Or at least more responsible than acting like a victim every time someone inquires about how much due diligence you did on this product before profiting from it.

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Wow..Ok you DO need some education then.. Besides what I previously explained as the UAOS function in a simplified over-view.....to delve a little deeper into it.... The purpose of running coolant to the Factory AOS ( with the diaphragm/flow regulator still functioning as factory designed) is to keep ice from forming on the flow control port due to the low pressure area when the diaphragm is near closed and in really cold weather. It is not cooling the AOS but rather "heating" the AOS. due to 911's having the AOS at the front of the engine ahead of most of the engine heat. Boxsters on the other hand are reversed and the Factory AOS is at the Rear of the engine where all the heat is above the cats. Boxsters/Caymans DO NOT have coolant lines run to them from the factory. and they have the exact same AOS system minus the coolant/heating ports.. On the UAOS the "flow control/diaphragm" is moved to the back of the engine where it is much warmer( and can be accessed easily in minutes) due to being "behind" the engine and "above" the cats/exhaust and gets all the heat it needs to keep from icing in cold weather, just like Boxsters/Caymans. So the coolant/heater lines can be eliminated with UAOS, since there is no longer had a "low pressure area" in the "AOS body it's self".. And they are a failure point that needs to be eliminated..All the lines, clamps, the heating chamber in the AOS body, the little plastic connector that breaks so often all can/is eliminated in UAOS.. And like I said previously, whether the AOS coolant/heater lines are used or not doesn't make one iota difference to the engine temp...

dup

You said it didn't affect coolant temperature which is why I continued to inquire.... Thank you for your explanation Skip. Now that wasn't too difficult was it?

It was pretty difficult, because I'm not sure you understood all of it, or you wouldn't have asked they way you did, but I hope someone reads it and understands "exactly" what I'm talking about....

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I've spent my entire career working around arrogant engineers in the tech industry. And I've found irritating them to not only be an effective way to get the information I'm looking for, but also just a little bit satisfying. Thanks again for the information, Skip.

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Trolling is not the best way ... If I hadn't have thought that " other people" would understand and benefit, you wouldn't have gotten it.....you can thank them not me...

@Porschetech3 If you had answered my questions as asked, without all of the attitude, we would both could have saved some time today. But that seems to be a Rennlist thing as this is the only place I run into it and why I always sigh when someone reaches out and asks me to jump back on to it. It's like this little echo chamber of the Porsche world that seams to fear and attack any alternative point of view. If you want to know what the real issues are with these cars, go hang out with the people that get paid to support them on track, in the worst of conditions, with some of the best and worst drivers, and who's jobs depend on being able to keep the cars running every single weekend.

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I do, I was in-charge of the Fleet of over 100 996's 997's for the Porsche Sport Driving School and knew all the Instructors/drivers " Hurley Haywood" ect.. The Racers Group ( TRG) would come to our Dealership a week ahead of the Porsche 250 to prep all the 996 997 cars for the Race, we let them use the shop at night. .. I don't call Trolling and being proud of it as having a good attitude

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The trolling part was taking a wild guess as to what the coolant's purpose was for the AOS and then extrapolating out the risks of not testing them. But ultimately it's what it took to get an answer... Your experience is impressive and explains a lot about your vast knowledge. One last question. If someone were to take the BMW catch can that I referenced above, provided the adapters and blocks off to delete the stock AOS and plumb it into a 996, draining into the oil tube just as it does on a BMW, do you believe that it would be a violation of your patent? Thanks!

Quotes source post: 18291142

Yes it would be a violation of my Patent. Plus if you delete the Stock AOS (completly) you would need a discrete flow regulator ( my easy access flow/regulator) which will be an additional violation of my Patent.....and it would not be near as efficient. ie. junk Do you know of anyone already doing this? If anyone see's an easy access flow regulator on a 996 997.1 and it is not a UAOS kit or I didn't authorize it, please let me know...Thanks !!!

Quotes source post: 18291168

Is a discrete flow regulator different than a PCV valve? Because I have seen people use PCV valves to ensure the direction of flow on a catch can system (#50's Kid). Is your Patent specific to Porsche or will you now go after the BMW guys?

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And since you do hold the patent, is there any chance you'll come out with a valueline version for those of us that don't need all of the bells and whistles like redundant separators, sensors or powered anything? Thanks!

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Show me one..." Mr. Troll" Nope I have the standard AL version and the Elite, no subpar half-assed versions

This is not a good idea and probably against the forum rules.

Yes I think if there was a way we could vote for a temporary suspension on trollers it would get my vote if not for nothing but just being aggravating and a distraction on the original post and a waste of my time

Does Renmlist have an "ignore" function. I have found that is really useful for ones blood pressure.

Quotes source post: 18290982

I'm glad this works for you - but not someone I wish to be around. How to block posts from a user: https://rennlist.com/forums/rennlist...nore-list.html

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I already told you, 50's Kid bro! You Tube October 2016 - You can fast forward to the 2:45 mark and he will provide a very nice explanation of why you should use a PCV valve when installing a catch can. Did you think you were the first to come up with this idea or were you simply patenting what others have already done?

Quotes source post: 18292583

Yea yea, just what I thought another stupid idea from you.. An "illegal" DIY "hack" that has been tried many times over the years on 996 and has been found to upset the fuel trims ( a big deal), A "PCV" is just a flow control that uses "manifold vacuum ONLY" to control flow. The flow regulator used on Porsche and UAOS uses atmospheric pressure, crankcase pressure, spring pressure, and vaccum pressures to control the flow in a much more accurate ballance and wider range of flow.. The "PCV valve hack" is illegal and non-emission compliant and less efficient.. ^^ simple answer... I find your Trolling no longer strangely amusing and worthy of a more detailed answer..

@UIDS Thanks again for answering my questions Skip. I think you are settling into your new sales role quite nicely and I wish you great success.

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@UIDS All right, you've hooked me. I have to know the rest of the story. These are still marketing statements that are getting thrown out there. Except you've convinced me that you can back them up. So I ask, humbly, When you say upset fuel trims, what do you mean? Are you saying the ecu simply has to adjust the long term trim? Or is the amount of fuel recirculated so erratic, that the short term trims become too inconsistent for the long term trims to stabilize? So my understanding is that a PCV valve incorporates crankcase pressure and manifold pressure, correct? How are you able to incorporate spring pressure and atmospheric pressure and what impact does it have on the system? Your patience is appreciated, as always.

Slakker, I understand your desire to get answers to your questions but I'm convinced there's a less stressful for the addressee and a much less insinuating way: https://meta.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/Cunningham%27s_Law It works as you've experienced yourself by stating that the AOS (or its contents) is being cooled where it actually is the opposite.

Quotes source post: 18293217

Not arguing this but providing context of some kind with a question, especially when technical, helps clarify what is being asked. As for using a �bad guess� to accomplish this, the chance to point out how stupid someone is and why is too much for most people to pass up. And I believe Skip when he says he has overcome the major limitation of the PCV valve. I�ve only asked that he explain the issue and how his solution overcomes it, in a way that an idiot like myself can understand. It�s literally a setup for him to expand on the key technical differentiator that makes his solution better than those that have tried before.

Come On Man! Can't we all just get along? This has become redundant and ridiculous. People should buy want they think is best for them from the available information or not. To brow beat someone incessantly to drag the same information out over and over starts to look like a hit job and not an information gathering endeavor. I understand the "Five Whys" questioning technique but this has exceeded that long ago. When is enough enough? sigh...

Let’s move on this actually sucks with all the negativity if you can’t get the answers YOU want do your own search or create a system better then what’s out there

Quotes source post: 18293503

Skip has stated that catch cans with PCV valves (someone else�s invention that they were probably proud of) are �hacks� that upset fuel trim and that by adding spring and atmospheric pressures, he�s been able to overcome this challenge. It sounds amazing and I�m reasonably sure that it�s a slam dunk for him to explain. I also believe that when you slam someone else�s work and say it�s inferior to your own, that a request for more details explaining such statements are perfectly reasonable.

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Just give it up. Don't get your panties in a bunch just because another girl scout sold more cookies than you.

But slacker if you don’t get the answer you want do you persist until the answer you gets answered even if the the questioned doesn’t want to answer and the the group as a whole majority don’t give a f*** what the answer is wether you or he are right you have muddied the water so much we can’t swim

Quotes source post: 18293879

I have the UAOS. It's similar enough to the stock system (just location moved) that I was comfortable with that choice without data. I like it. I for one would love to have data, both here and especially with respect to the UIDS, but I am resigned to the fact that no technical performance data is necessarily forthcoming, so maybe there's no point in beating that horse.

Quotes source post: 18294055

Plenty of data on the UAOS on zbombs Oil Pressure Stability thread. Jason and Skip worked together in combination with Paul for analysis to gather the data from early on with a "catch can" which evolved into the UAOS Track version which was able to run an extra quart of oil in addition the the extra 2 quarts in the deep sump. You can see how the evolution took place and how the oil pressure stability improved with each step. That thread was also introduced the UIDS as a solution and you can see all the thought that went into it. I know it's a long thread with alot of bitching, fighting and bs interjected along the way. But it may be the most important thread on RL to date. It's a shame that thread has run its course for now.

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Would be nice to distill it down to just relevant data points and remove the other crap from the thread

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No kidding. Nothing worthwhile is ever easy. But alot got accomplished on that thread.

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Yet people busting my ***** for asking for data� hilarious.

Hah, there wasn't a person on that thread that didn't get an elbow in the jewels.

Yes, it's really easy for me to "beat-up" on "1970's PCV Technology" being used on 1999-2008 Porsche engines and calmed to be as efficient , as good, or even better !.. Slakkers Trolling using incorrect assumptions or outlandishness with correlations has a purpose, ( and its not for information only) Slakker is not a dumb as he sometimes sounds and is as wishy-washy as a Gov Politician...and I find his Trolling no longer strangely amusing and after sleeping on it and they way responded to my mentioning my Patent Attorney and saying something about "copycats" the other day which wasn't directed at him in the UIDS thread ( but now it is in this UAOS thread) I do feel there is an agenda behind it all. AND the "information gathering" is to find a "workaround" to the UAOS Patent.. @Slakker if you want more information from me on UAOS then make this declaration " I or any of my associates have no interest designing a similar product or using any Technology of the UAOS for monetary gain" Then I will proceed to answer your questions..

Quotes source post: 18294096

Those were the days�.. Is there a �The Rest of the Story� Thread? 😛😎

The ideas were all Skips. All I did was drive the car and email Paul the data.

Just my own small anecdotal experience... My 2003 C4 3.6 engine died as a result of sucking oil in to Cylinder 1 when the factory AOS died. (Diaphragm was blown) and best theory is that lifted cylinder pressure high enough to crack the cylinder, Obviously with the 996 engine, we will never know. But there was no other damage. I also owned a 2006 BMW 330Xi ,,, There is nothing superior about the BMW setup it has screwed up many many engines, has numerous failure modes including the coolant pipes breaking and having to add a insulation wrap around their version of the air oil seperator to keep it from freezing when water vapor builds up in really cold weather. (a FACTORY "Cold weather option") Well known issue in the BMW crowd.. E46 cars need a 3500 dollar cooling system service about every 90K miles .. Which the AOS system on the car contributes to. I've got about 12 years of road racing experience driving and about 30 just tuning and taking care of track cars.. You can do a lot of things on track that just don't work on street cars.. And sadly,, a fair number I've seen DONT help the car run better or do anything real. It should also be mentioned that MANY really good mechanics have tried catch can solutions on the 996, none provided a real improvement. So Cudos to Porschetech3 !! IMHO in the scheme of running a Porsche at all its not a big hit.. Hell it cheaper than buying new quality pads and rotors for a 4 corner brake job... Cheers///

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Roger that. I was wondering about the schism between you two.😎

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No schism, just super busy with company sale and have very limited time to respond in a meaningful way.

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I hope so. Too much has been accomplished and much more can be.

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Yeah, he is either dense as he'll or fishing for dollars since he has just retired and said he was getting into the PCar business. Either way, he is an annoying sob. Got alot of patience for people but not that ***.

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Yes, he is not the "consumer" he says he is..

Quotes source post: 18294291

Yes !!! Someone could take the most relevant Technical threads and redact all the bull**** from them and post them as "stickies"..You could even leave the complete threads with all the bull**** in it for anyone who wants to read that...Are you volunteering??

@Porschetech3 I have recommended your products multiple times, invited you to my home technical group, introduced you when you accepted, and have now purchased a UAOS (didn't want this to be a complete waste of your time) and am now a customer. You in turn have been a great technical resource over the years and therefore I consider us somewhat "even". As for intentions, I will always be transparent, all you have to do is ask. The marketing hyperbole I've seen and acting like a victim every time @zbomb asks for data, leads me to believe that you are either hiding something, or just getting bad marketing advice. Because it is the same tactics that I see out of people that do have something to hide. Commercially, I am only a threat to you if ALL of the following conditions are met: I think I see a more efficient way to solve the problem that doesn't infringe on your patent That you have stated that you don't have any intentions of pursuing a more efficient way to solve the problem That that there is enough additional benefit to the Porsche community to justify the effort Even then, I'm guessing it would be a couple of years out before we would get to it, at best. You already have the solution and best case we would be providing an alternative that was a few hundred cheaper and less complicated to troubleshoot. Worst case would be it was technically inferior and we never released it because our data told us so. So I won't say never, but the odds appear to be less than .1% as I think there are other areas that have a lot more room for improvement and you are in the best position to continue solving this one. Is that good enough to hear the rest of the story?

Well congrats Skip. You have made enough impact on the M9X community to FRIGHTEN some product and service providers. Seems that Slakker is in charge of dirty tricks and reconnaissance. Slacker, who's your partner. Might as well tell us.

Slak why not start with this in the first place instead dragging this into a sh*tfest your intentions weren’t transparent until pushed

Quotes source post: 18289096

@Slakker The Patent is in place for a Reason.Now that I know what your real intention is I'm glad it is and will be usefull. I'm a Technician, I post Technology not "Marketing".. The AOS problem on 996 has been around for 20 years. I'm a problem solver. I solved it with UAOS.YOU nor anyone else did. In-fact everyone just bitched about it being such a bad design, and replaced it more often... I never said that I am not improving the UAOS, infact I make small improvements all time..and may do so with UIDS as well.. @Slakker I don't know you that well and when you invited me to your "home Technical Group" I went to find out it was more a" F$$k you to Rennlist" with mostly bitching and nothing constructive and only found it interesting enough to go a few times..Yes I have helped you many times, the old saying " a good deed never goes unpunished" is so true to us " humble grease -monkeys". I think your whole personality/tactics is disgusting, and since you didn't/won't make the simple declaration I asked of you, and now I know why, you get No More. Anyone else can ask what they want ,and I will answer in PM, But I will probably expand on this some more for a canned response to Slakker..

Skip, I wouldn't waste your time. If anybody goes thru this thread, all the answers are there. There is alot of bs that goes on RL, but this is at the highest level. Moderators, don't know where the hell you have been. This self serving vulture needs to be shut down. This is 100 bs.

@Porschetech3 "I or any of my business associates have no interest designing a similar product or using any Technology of the UAOS for monetary gain", I hope you can appreciate my narrowing of the scope to something I felt like I could reasonably state. It's all yours. Pinky swear. (assuming we agree that reselling the UAOS as the UAOS isn't a violation of this statement). Anything else?

@Porschetech3 So I am no longer a competitor, I am simply a customer. And your worst customer just wants to know, did I essentially buy a PCV valve, or can you take a minute to explain to me how you were able to define the problem and then how your patented technology brilliantly solved it? At this point, I am simply good either way.

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I'm asking legitimate questions about a vendor's statements that represent products that he is profiting from. I am not hurling insults, or breaking forum rules(intentionally), I am simply asking tough questions, that are really easily answered by someone of @UIDS technical level. I think by buying the product and reserving the right to resell it, I have proven I'm not a troll. And if I ever want to sell something here, I will register with the proper authorities and pay my dues like the others. There may be a few sparks but I think it's all good @GC996 .

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@Slakker since you felt the need to redact the declaration and add your "Pinky Promise" and have used "trolling" as a method to get info, instead of just asking, without doing the "leg work" of actually reading the Threads ( which have it all in them, I layed out my heart in them). I will leave it to a "Rennlist Vote" to see if you should be allowed to ask for more technical info on the UAOS.. Or since you have placed an order for a UAOS through LN , (BTW you didn't order the "track drain option"?) you or "Slakker Racing Development" can just compare it to your " PCV Hack therory" and see for your self..Although Slakker Racing Development hasn't been able or seen the need in 20 years.. Also who is the "WE" that you keep referring to?

Quotes source post: 18298340

Maybe he has a mouse in his pocket🙄

@Porschetech3 I have given all you have asked. I think it would be a little "wishy washy" not to teach the lesson now. So let's hear about the specific deficiencies of the PCV (upset fuel trims could mean multiple things) and how spring and atmospheric pressures are able to overcome them, or whatever the story is, please.

Nope

Quotes source post: 18298552

Maybe you should "Ask Mr Google"...

I subscribed to this thread for the purpose described in the title. I did not subscribe to if to bear witness to rants, baiting, ad hominem attacks and other displays of intemperate human behavior. I would appreciate it if this thread were to stay on topic. If the perpetrators of, and responders to, the off-topic discussion want to continue I ask that they move it elsewhere.

I�ve just finished installing the uaos on my 02. I�m having clearance issues with my deck lid and the intake snorkel. Seems like the uaos aluminum catch can body is pushing the snorkel too far back/up. any ideas on how best to resolve?

Quotes source post: 18324996

Make sure your snorkel and deck lid accordion is not warped and is attached properly ,and that the two grommets under the air box are in there and not worn.. Also check your motor mounts to see is they are sagging/out of position. You can also loosen the transmission mount and engine mounts and slide engine/trans to the furthermost forward of the slots on the trans mounts... This should cover it from what I have seen, others may have a few more "tricks"..

My .2 c4s manual is at the indy shop for the third day, for the UAOS install. They quoted me 8 hrs and I said f'it ok maybe Skip thinks experienced techs should be able to do it in 4 but this shop doesn't usually mess with 'aftermarket' parts, so I figured ok. Checked in with them yesterday on how it's going and I got a not very re-assuring "Slow, this is a bear to install" Said it would be ready today, but I just checked and they said "nope...this kit is a royal pain to install. we had to literally trim th OAS just to get the bolts to fit in. This is not an easy or fasty install at all" Now I'm worried. And I'm worried they're going to try to charge me even more than what they quoted. So I ask: Those of you with .2 MT who had an independant install it- how many hours were you charged? --Skip does the track drainback significantly complicate the install?

I think your Indy sucks if they install it wrong you will have more serious problems find a recommended installer pm skip he has a list

Quotes source post: 18360634

It sounds like your independent has never even replaced a standard AOS in a 996 before. I am an amateur and the first time I replaced my AOS with another standard AOS, it took me a couple of days. When I replaced the AOS with the UAOS I did it in one afternoon, along with the drainback. I didn't need to trim the UAOS to fit either!

My indi put the UAOS on in a day and he has probably never even changed a regular AOS. I printed out the Pelican article about removing the OEM and Skip's tricks and hints list and tossed them in the box. He had a few questions of Skip but it didn't seem a big deal. I shook his hand when I picked the car up and he admitted it was not easy but doable. I would have to dig the bill out to check on hours charged. It works because I checked the vacuum when I got home. My car is a .2 MT

Quotes source post: 18360634

Nothing about the UAOS install is complicated unless you have never installed an AOS on 996 before,( which means you haven't repaired very many 996's because it is one of he most failure prone parts on the car..) The Track Drain-back install is literally same as replacing the oil fill tube.. Kris Murphy is not a mechanic but he had replaced his AOS 3 times before he got the UAOS and he installed it in couple of hours..( 996.1) Then he did several more installs more others.. I recommend shops charge 4 hours to do the install, I think it is a reasonable allowed time..but I have heard of shops charging 8 hours or more..That seems high to me, the Porsche Factory labor manual only gives 8.5 hours to R&R the engine/transmission unit on a 996...lol..( there is no "book" time on AOS replacement )

I purchased my 996.2 from BAT in March 2020 and drove it home from Dallas TX to a suburb of Atlanta GA. I immediately acquired the IMS Solution and RMS, new OEM flywheel, clutch kit...and the UAOS. The install of the UAOS is not complicated. The "modified" AOS supplied by Skip is a standard part, zero fitment issues. The hardest part of the UAOS install at that time was connecting the two wires to the pigtail for the low coolant sensor (now fully plug and play). Of course my install was a 6MT done with the transmission removed for IMS/RMS/clutch replacement. But there should not be any trimming of the AOS supplied. -Tom

I've installed the UAOS in a day and half taking my sweet time, cleaning all parts and documenting the process with bunch of photos of every step for the DIY I wrote. Your mechanic sounds like a noob or is trying to make the job sound much bigger than it is to charge for more hours. Is he a Porsche indy? I'd be concerned if he has never replaced an AOS because it kind of sounds like that's the case.

Thanks all. It's a porsche indy, with a pretty ok reputation from google reviews etc. I'm deeply concerned now though. If they try to charge me more than they quoted that's one thing but at this point I wonder what kind of tech they had working on this and if it's going to be ok once they're done. The owner/SA said yesterday "I would not call this a well designed product in terms of installation...hope it works as promised" Which sounds like he's proactively washing his hands in case it doesn't. Can someone tell me the procedure to check the vacuum (where to tap) and the expected readings? I know I saw the expected values somewhere in this thread but I want to be able to check when I go pick it up, which SHOULD be today. I have 2 track days (my first with this car- I was waiting until I got the UAOS installed) and this is stressing me the F out....

Quotes source post: 18361920

That's just crazy !! And pisses me off !! Of course it works as promised..... I literally put the whole thing together myself making sure every clamp is turned the correct way, the wiring harness is installed and Plug-N-Play, Then separate it in two pieces for shipping ( instead of sending a bag of parts/pieces) with only two screws for mounting... If anyone has any suggestions to make the "kit" more "installer friendly".......... I'M ALL EARS ..... I think your stress may be from waiting until the last minute to prepare for the Track event... I'll post up the " AOS manometer test procedure " in a bit..... you test the UAOS the same as the AOS , it just reads about 1inwc lower( around -3inwc to -5inwc instead of -4inwc to -6inwc) ...

@somethingclever IF your Indy is worth a s&&t he can do a manometer test for you when you pick up the car, it literally take 30 seconds to take off the oil cap install the manometer and start the engine.. And if I may have his name and phone number I'd like to give him a call about the "install design"...

Sorry you have a couple of headaches witg your indy. Took my indy a couple of hours to put on the UAOS track version a few months ago. But they work exclusively on Porsches and mainly on DE and Club racing stuff so they know the motorsports aos and oem aos very well. They didn't have issues with the UAOS install and liked the design. Fwiw, I had them drop the engine to replace a number of different things in addition to go over the engine and parts with a fine tooth comb. So it may have been a relatively smooth procedure from that standpoint.

I’m a full on amateur hack. I’ve done two now, one with original AOS in situ (early build, prior to Skip’s full kit) and another full kit install just this summer. Other than the aerobic yoga required, it really isn’t a very technical job. I’d be seriously concerned if a professional tech can’t install. But then again, lots of “techs” these days only change bulbs and tires anyway.

Quotes source post: 18362100

lol, no my stress is from having my car worked on by supposed Porsche experts and feeling like they may, at this minute, be F'ing it up. To be clear, I have no anxiety about your kit, Skip, nor the support you give to the community.

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I'll DM you details. I'm not trying to trash this place publicly which is why I haven't named them. I'm also not trying to have you call them and get all frosty with them before I pick up my car

you'll have it back in no time, let's go from there. Track day brings on so many other worries, Are they prepping your car for that as well ? just curious...

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I've done a bunch of trackdays in other cars, and am not worried about the car being ready for the track, aside from them finishing the install of the UAOS properly. The car is pretty well set up for the kind of driving I want to do (intermediate group 70-80% of my capability), all I need to do when I get it back is put in RBF and maybe overfill the engine

Quotes source posts: 18362241, 18362256

I would not call them unless they needed "help" , until after you have picked up you car. Thanks for clarifying where your stress is coming from , I hope you understand where MY stress is coming from.. I expect for non-professionals to complain of the difficulty,( especially from the "bitch bolt" on the 996.2 that is well documented here), but for a professional to complain really pisses me off !! And the "bracket" you refered to in the PM that needed "trimming" is the aluminum change-over re-location bracket is the only bracket included in the kit with the two mounting screws.. The bracket is "laser cut precision" by a professional metal fabrication company . I buy them 200 at a time and never had one "not fit". Yes please post a picture of the bracket when you get the car back so we can all discuss and have a good laugh at, why it was a big deal and was so much harder...

Here is a picture of a "Laser cut re-location bracket" out of the pile that has caused all this fuss ........ Like I said, I have never had one of these "not fit and needed trimming" , and if it turns out to be the case I'll issue a TSB , and if not I will expect a phone number to call... Laser cut change-over valve re-location bracket

Would they have tried to install the bracket between the hose fitting and the intake? Directions on page 1 may be a little clearer with the word and instead of in. Install the Brake Booster fitting between the UAOS bracket in the intake

Quotes source post: 18362570

I have no idea.... I almost didn't even put that line in the instructions at all thinking " surely no-one will try to put the brake booster fitting on top of the bracket ?" ... A little common since is expected whether professional or not...lol

Unfortunately, common sense is not that common.

Quotes source post: 18363186

This is so true, and even getting worse in this day and age I think... My older sister was the "brain" of the family, she was Valedictorian in high school and went on to write for Encyclopedia Britannica and the Dept of Agriculture, her husband was Editor for NYT for 25 years but unfortunately neither of them had what we call "common sense" ..lol I think that trend is getting worse in todays times... Common sense comes from staying grounded in your experiences and not living in a bubble..

Got a call from a Porsche Indy in Arizona last week who was very complimentary of the UAOS that a customer and bought and brought in to have installed. As an Engineer he was extremely impressed with the design and quality and wanted to know a little more about some of the special functions of the UAOS. ( like the Optical Microprocessor Infra-Red Sensor in the Accumulator)..and details of how the design works and the many advantages... He also said he completed the install in 5 hours taking his time and could cut that way down on the next install. This was on a 996.2 and he didn't even take the drivers side intake off or mess with the "bitch bolt". he said he just lower the engine and worked over the top to do the install. It's good to hear from people like him instead of the ones "bitching" about how hard it is..lol His shop is Ken Zuffenhausen Motors INC. Scottsdale Az. [phone removed] if anyone in the area wants someone to do a UAOS install, he is the one I would recommend..

FYI, Ken has a top flight shop. Small and knowledgeable.

The Indy that installed mine actually treated me fairly (imo) in the end. Just kept it forever took it to the track today and after the 4th session (as I started driving harder) I came in with smoke coming out of the engine bay. Looks like there is a small amount of oil spraying from somewhere around the fill tube/ accumulator (?) area- it ended up costing the serpentine belt/alternator enough that the alternator stopped charging (at least I hope that was the cause) any usual suspects as far as connections/hoses/clamps that I should check to try to find the leak? I have another track day tomorrow and would prefer to not be leaking oil on the engine/serp belt etc

I would clean the area real good so no oil is present, then take it for a short/hard drive and come back and look for the first sign of wetness.. The only issue I know of that has been reported similar to yours was at the " uniseal" ( a special rubber seal that fits into the oil fill tube and a brass fitting is pressed into it ) ..There was one report that the uniseal had split and was leaking a little under heavy loads ( tracking) ... The quick cure was to apply some "ultra black silicone" to the split/seal/brass connection untill a new uniseal could be installed... If this doesn't find/fix the issue,, I would suggest a smoke test to find the leak..

Could it have been coolant? I was the one with the cracked rubber grommet but it just leaked out on top of the engine. Not hot enough there to create smoke.

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Very possible, those little coolant lines/ connections under and next to the alternator have been the source of many an unusual leaks.... BTW There was no issue with the "Laser cut aluminum change-over valve relocation bracket" on Somethingclever's kit, the journeyman Tech was actually struggling with the "bitch bolt"...I got no idea how the finger got pointed at the Laser cut bracket...

Pardon me if this is the wrong forum for this, I searched the 987 technical forums and could not find a UAOS thread. I am installing this on a 987 with a softronic throttle body. Only question I have pertains to the change over valve. Is it expected that one would have to access the front of the engine and remove the alternator in order to connect the provided harness? Thank you. Doug Hale

Quotes source post: 18399507

Hi Doug, your fine, I will start a UAOS thread on the 987 forum soon, it was just recently added to available kits...along with 997... If you have the UAOS Track Version you will need to install the new oil fill pipe and that requires the alternator to be removed... The Plug-N-Play harness can plug into any change-over valve, but I usually recommend plugging into the one for the intake resonance flap.. If you need any further assistance, E-mail me at [email removed] and I will give you my contact #..

Much appreciated. Thank you. Doug

I hate to do this but I kinda don't want to have to read all of the pages of this thread. #sorrynotsorry Is the guide on Pelican Parts still the most appropriate one to use? I have a 1999 C2 and am just now finally getting around to installing my kit. Thanks! Edit: I have a 4-post lift. Does this make it possible to remove the AOS from underneath without having to remove the drivers side intake manifold?

Quotes source post: 18603216

You might want to go to post #412 and go from there. Not on a 1999 but I made a very detailed write up for 996.2.

Quotes source post: 18603216

I�ve done it twice from underneath. Helps to lower the motor with getting to connections at the top. Only removed the throttle body and the crossover pipes.

Pete's documentation on post #412 is the best one for 996.2 , I tried to attach it post #1 but for some reason I can't edit post #1, may it has been archived?? I dunno...but it is definatly the most detailed for 996.2 . No need to remove the intake on 996.1,,, the AOS bolts can be accessed from the bottom....Infact the 996.2 can be done without removing the intake also, but the bolts come down from the top and takes quite a bit more fineese....Most professionals don't struggle with this, but some do.......most average DIY'ers struggle with this, but some can breeze through ( Kris Murphy) ..it's crazy the amount of spread on doing this job....lol For 987.1 Boxster and Cayman there is also a video made by a YouTuber with channel "help me DIY" that shows him installing a UAOS with Track Drain on his 987.1....He is not a professional Mechanic , just an average DIY guy..

Thanks folks!

For those struggling with the Norma Quick Connectors here is a couple of tools that will ease the pain of releasing those in tight spaces... One from LN Engineering https://lnengineering.com/products/p...87-models.html One from Schley products ( also availible from Snap-on, Matco, MAC ect.) https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...l-P314208.aspx

Hey Skip, hope you're well. Just PM'd you but reposting here to add photos. After a bit of travel I'm wrapping up the UAOS on my 2003 996.2 C4S and I'm in a pickle. I can't figure out how to route the drain line from the UAOS reservoir back to the oil filler tube. I currently have the drain line running behind the alternator, coming out on the left side of the alternator between the alternator and the manifold. When I move the reservoir into position, the hose gets mashed up next the manifold. Am I supposed to run the hose over the top of or in front of the alternator? (If so, I sure hope I don't spring a leak!) Also, how am I supposed to route the flex line (is this the brake booster line?) through/around/under the UAOS mount to the manifold? Nothing seems to make sense. I've tried running it behind all the UAOS lines, between them, in front of them... Nothing seems to work. Thanks

The reservoir is not in the right spot - It does not look like you will even be able to bolt the support bracket in it is shifted so far right. This is how that should look. Your routing of the drain sounds fine.

The Track drain should route behind the alternator like shown here... The brake booster hose should route like this over the UAOS hose......... The Accumulator mounts to the Intake with two screws provided and the changeover valve relocation bracket as shown here..

If you need to we can do a " FB Messenger live video feed" to sort it out, should only take a few minutes...

Thanks, Skip. I did end up getting the line connections made, although they're pretty tight. I ran the shortest route I could find for the track drain line but another 1-2 inches of hose would have helped better route the drain behind the alternator. My line is almost (but not quite) sandwiched in there to get enough slack to connect to the track drain. I do have a question on the electrical connections. Where to these little guys connect? They seem to want to connect to the coolant level sensor in the overflow reservoir, but they don't appear to be an exact fit. Do they go somewhere else, or do they just need a little persuasion? Here's where I am, in the home stretch. Seems like it's going to be tight fit when I lift the motor back into position. I've also noticed a bit of coolant weeping at the cap on the line coming up from the water pump below the oil filler neck.

NVM. Figured it out.

Glad you got the low coolant switch connectors plugged in, just have to get them perfectly aligned.. The silicon rubber coolant cap doesn't go on the plastic connector peice, that's why it's leaking a bit... It goes down below the alternator on the engine it's self and elimiates those hoses and plastic connector..The size is slightly different.. Looks like you are on the home stretch !!

@Porschetech3 running with no leaks yet. But the UAOS unit that connects to the plenum is interfering with the fan so the lid won't close. What the hell am I doing wrong? I mean, it closes, but the fan presses against the unit to close the lid.

This hose is not all the way on the flow regulator, also check the hose on the back to make sure it is all the way on. If it still touches just trim a little off the back hose..

Just got my 996.2 back from UAOS with track drain installed... Do I have to utilize the coolant sensor piggy back jumper wire? With the track drain option, it doesn't seem necessary. And, started getting weird CELs and ABS warning lights. Unplugged the wiring and returned to normal and all seems fine. Input/advice appreciated!

Quotes source post: 18731741

@NO LIFT I can't help with your q, sorry, and I know it's rude to answer a question with more questions, but I'm counting on your better nature and forgiveness🫡 How much was the installation? My Indy said that Labor for an AOS is about 950 installed, that's at his 135/hr rate. He has not done an UAOS install, but he'll do it for me, once I can afford it. Was it easier or harder to install than a stock AOS? 🙏

It's about the same ,, the stock AOS is still there its just lightly modified. I installed mine with the engine out, it eliminates a couple of the water hoses. most of its right on the motor by the throttle body. I suspect teh hardest bit is feeding the new large line that connects to the catch can. But with engine out its easy.. LOL

Quotes source post: 18731741

I would appreciate it if the UAOS warning system were left in place as designed....It was carefully designed and has saved numerous M96 engines already.... Just last week the warning system saved two m96 engines that had one their scavenge pumps accidentally installed backwards and the warning system helped to show a problem before irreparable damage was done to the engine... I know it seems like "overkill" to have the warning system when you have the Track Drain option, but it has proven to be worthwhile...even with the Track Drain Option when accidents occur like a scavenge pumps installed backwards.. The Microprocessor Controlled Optical Infra-Red Sensor is a laboratory grade Sensor and is sensitive to water vapor or steam. There was a TSB issued recently about how to desensitize the Sensor to water vapor or steam by "indexing" it, and how to diagnose the "slow flash" that can be caused by three different systems.. Here is a link to the TSB.. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...light=TSB+UAOS If you need further assistance just PM me and Ill give you my contact number and happy to help ..

@Porschetech3 Is this where these two new clamps go?

Quotes source post: 18754154

Yes , the brass connector replaces the factory plastic one and one clamp secures it, then it is capped by the 8mm silicone cap and clamped with the second clamp... Note :: the models that have the updated hose with " built in connector" doesn't use the brass connector , just the 8mm silicone cap and one clamp..

Quotes source post: 18754190

Thanks. I sent you a PM when you have a moment.

I installed mine per instructions without that fitting and capped the appropriate case connections, it really cleans up a bit in the engine bay getting rid of the extra hose.

Quotes source posts: 18754358, 18754513

Got it .. Yea, the one you are talking about is below/beside the alternator,,, the one in the pic is below the expansion tank.....some models have two of those stupid plastic connectors....the UAOS coolant by-pass kit eliminates both of them..

Apologies if this has been asked and answered: what is the justification for eliminating the coolant to the AOS? I thought that the coolant was there to keep the water vapor from condensing and dripping back into the crankcase. That said, I wouldn�t mind getting rid of those extra lines. Thanks Dan

Quotes source post: 18754794

Coolant is pumped through the AOS to keep from "icing" in cold weather. in the factory AOS there is a low pressure area created inside the orifice...... In the UAOS system, this low pressure area is "moved" to near the throttle body, in a much warmer place, therefore the warm coolant is not needed and is done away with..This not only cleans up the engine bay, but eliminates several failure points.. You cannot/should not eliminate the coolant lines on the factory AOS ...

That makes sense to me now @Porschetech3 I will be installing mine on the 4.0 soon and running (at least) a full sump of oil! As always, thanks for the support.

Quotes source post: 18754864

You will like that 4.0 liter, I drove Marks the other day.....

I thought I had pretty nifty mechanical skillz but my first time with the AOS has been a bit of a headache. Is the UAOS in my pic inserted far enough into the block? For the life of me I can�t get it inserted any further. I thoroughly cleaned the port and surrounding area beforehand and used a little bit of engine oil to lubricate the seal, but this is as far as she goes with the side attachment bolts fully seated.

Yea that plenty far enough...

This thing is continuing to eat my lunch. I can’t seem to get enough clearance for the custom bracket and the changeover valve. They hit my idle air control valve on the throttle no matter what orientation that I try. Thoughts? EDIT: Never mind. I somehow overlooked @Kris Murphy 's excellent pics of a 1999 install on post #42 of this thread. I'm a dummy. Thanks Kris!

I�m on a roll so I�ll post about an additional problem. This upper flex/hardline from the top of the UAOS is completely straight until it joins the flex portion. This appears to be different from the 996.2�s which have a slight bend towards the center of the engine. Because mine is straight, I don�t see how it will properly reach the brake booster. Am I supposed somehow remove it from both the forward and rearward plastic mounts so that it can move more freely?

Quotes source post: 18755178

Skip and I got it squared away. I had to release the brake booster flex/hardline from the upper plastic retaining mount closest to the firewall. I left the line attached to the mount located closest to the rear of the car. This gave me about 2 more inches in length, which was just barely enough. I do wish I had another 2 or so inches, though. As has been posted before, everything is quite tight when doing the work on a 1999. Despite that, I did the whole job without removing either intake manifold. I did remove the alternator in order to facilitate replacing the oil fill tube and I'm not sure I could have completed the UAOS install without doing that task.

996.1 Aerokit folks with the UAOS: Do any of you have a problem with the air box snorkel being pushed rearward (towards the rear of the car) by the UAOS�s drain, which then makes the snorkel misalign with the taco wings hard plastic air guide/bellows? I never had any prior fitment issues, but now the air box snorkel won�t allow the taco lid to close without contacting and knocking off the guide/bellows. Before, During, After pics:

I have heard of a few with this issue....it seems that the engine/transmission is too far to the rear... Loosen the 6 trans mount bolts and the two engine mounting bolts and slide the engine/trans to the front as far as the slots will allow... The ones that have had this issue they either were all the way to the back of the slots, or the snorkel was a bit warped from heat...

Quotes source post: 18763853

I did finally get the lid to close properly. As Skip suggested, I lifted the car and observed that the engine and trans were already nearly at the most forward position, but I did get another 1/4� of movement forward. I did this by loosening the four trans carrier bolts, plus the tran�s two top mount bolts up in the tunnel, plus the two engine engine mount bolts. I then fastened a ratchet strap as shown in the pics and gingerly put tension on it until my mechanical gut instinct said No More. I was VERY careful and precise as to how I positioned the straps as I didn�t want to out any undue stress on anything. I then tightened everything up. Unfortunately this still didn�t offer quite enough room in between the UAOS sump and the intake snorkel. What did the final trick was moving the changeover valve bracket to be mounted on top of the UAOS sump�s bracket. Now you may ask why I didn�t do this before, and it was simply because the UAOS sump bracket isn�t quite wide enough to clear the moldings on the plastic brake booster nozzle that is sandwiched to the intake. This is because of a plastic horizontal line on each side that�s molded into the nozzle�s flange. But the changeover valve�s laser-cut bracket IS wide enough to clear it, so therefore I had installed it to be between the UAOS sump bracket and the plastic nozzle. In order to change the order of it all, I had to shave some of the horizontal plastic off of the nozzle so that it would then fit inside the curved portion of the sump bracket. Here are some pics of the measurements before modification. Brake booster plastic nozzle horizontal molding width Changeover valve bracket width UAOS sump bracket width I assume all of this only applies to 1999 throttle cable cars, and even then YMMV.

That particular issue only arises on the very early 99 models (built in 98).... All the 99's built in 99 and later cars use this brake booster adaptor that clears everything.... Some early car owners have switched to the newer adaptor and also the booster hose for a perfect fit.. brake booster adaptor for cars built in 99 and onward.. Most just take a Dremel or Razor knife and trim the plastic tabs down

Quotes source post: 18778072

Yup, mine was built in 9/98 so that fits the description. A quick trim with a razor blade is all it took.

My indy trimmed the plastic tabs.

Yes, Professionals instinctively know what to do when these little things arise....( same as any profession) ..

Yeah, a good indy is worth their weight in gold.

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Ahem�.I don�t like to trim/modify unless absolutely forced to. It�s only original once. Lord knows I spent a lot of time undoing �trimming� that had been done on my �78 928.

Quotes source post: 18779772

I hear ya... But Posche does a lot of trimming before you ever get the car...( but not as much as they used to)

I sincerely apologize if this has been asked and answered, but I couldn�t find details of this issue I�m running into. I bought the track drain version, which includes the oil filler neck with a modification for the drain line. Upon installing the neck, the drain line is kinked against 2 hard pipes (stacked vertically). Will that adversely affect draining? Should I try to route these underneath the hard pipes and up near the throttle body? See pic with the kink circled.

Quotes source post: 18788609

Hi ​​​ @Outatimemk , route the drain back line as shown in these pics... No, you cannot have that kink in the line......

The problem is that the hard pipe is within an inch of the drain and so it kinks in any direction except if it goes underneath - at which point it looks like it won�t be long enough (I haven�t installed the rest of it). I�ll give it another shot, otherwise I�ll try to take better pics of that pipe.

Quotes source post: 18788677

The rubber drain line is cut to 13.25 inches, and has been fitting perfect but things could have changed...Let me know if a longer line is needed...

It�s probably me, I�ll let you know what I find.

I have a question post install: "As an additional design improvement, the Ultimate AOS, incorporates an accumulator in series between the vortex and the flow control diaphragm regulator. The accumulator acts as a secondary air/oil separator and collects any excess oil in the crankcase vent system." Does this accumulator make an audible sound?

Quotes source post: 18789346

It does not.... Why do you ask? I suspect you have an unusual noise you are concerned about.....Please post a video/audio...

Quotes source post: 18789753

I don't think it will be possible. First, it is very intermittent, and secondly, it is quite faint. I have heard it twice now, both times while sitting at a stop light. The best way I could describe it is, it sounds like an electric motor kicking on for a few seconds -- a flat, low-pitched hum. Definitely coming from the engine compartment.

Quotes source post: 18790729

Ahhh......Sound like what you are experiencing is the "SAI Self Test" ... Ever so often the DME will do a "Self Test" on the SAI to make sure it is working.. This self test is usually done when the car is fully warmed and sitting at a red-light..... The DME turns on the SAI motor/pump or a few seconds to see if the air is blown into the exhaust by monitoring the 02 Sensors and expects to see them go full lean (0v)... Totally normal.......

That description makes perfect sense. Thank you!

An update for the "early" 99 models.. This "Z" elbow will be included in all post UAOS kits for the early 99 models.. It makes a much better/nicer connection to the Power Brake Booster Hose than was previously available,and a better routing ( and no leaking like the factory plastic o-ringed elbow)...We all know the 99's and especially the early 99's were a very tight fit, and this fits !! To retrofit it just contact me or you can source it your self, you need two Dorman 46051 90* elbows, a 3 inch long piece of 16mm Aluminum thin wall tube.. and 4 22mm Constant Tension Clamps, these will be included for early 99 going forward...

Quotes source post: 18883781

Great idea. I thought about this style of fix when I was experimenting with other hoses but I wasn't sure where to source the tube from. My Gates hose that I cut up seems to be working for now but it's not as rigid as I would like and I worry that it will collapse over time. Apologies as I forgot to follow up with you on this.

Quotes source post: 18883793

No Problem, I figured you weren't 100% satisfied with it or you would have let me know.. Yea, sourcing the 16mm thin wall Aluminum tube was the biggest/last hurtle, turns out several vendors on Amazon has it all sizes and thickness...

Hey Rennlisters, I was curious if anyone knows whether or not this kit is compatible with a 987 that has a 3.8 997.1 CS motor in it? concern would be clearance to the engine access panel up top. Thanks! Jon

Quotes source post: 18912139

Hi Jon, If you have the 987 intake manifold and oil cooler, which I assume you do it , it will fit...The clearance is very tight and may touch the engine cover just like the shifter cables do.. If this is a "Track Only" car and doesn't have to pass emissions testing, there is more freedom and I am finishing up a track only version for 996/997.1 and working on one for a 987 kit.. Here are some pictures of the emission legal Cayman "Street and Track Version" ....you can use with divers side connection or passenger side connection with IDP plenum..

Appreciate the timely response and my hat is off to you for inventing this piece of kit. This is a dedicated GTB3 car, track only. To my knowledge no emissions equipment was installed when we did the swap. It has an IPD plenum and GT3 TB presently. Factory oil cooler was swapped out for the OEM 997 3rd radiator unit as well. So there should be ample room in there based on what I'm reading in your response.

Quotes source post: 18912197

Hi Jon, most of the track only Caymans I have seen remove the factory oil cooler and install a by-pass plate/adaptor with a large remote oil cooler mounted down by the transmission... Send me a pic of the engine bay in this area so I can see what I'm working with.. Without being handicapped by the emissions laws I can do away with the flow regulator and supply a plug-off, use my "modified AOS" to the Accumulator with drain-back, then to a small 500ml catch can with sight glass and vent filter for a "track only" set-up..( if still using the factory DME with CEL you may get a code for fuel trim).. This allows the oil level to be increased which I have found to be one of the best things you can do for the M96/M97 Send me a PM and we can chat...

Apparently I don't have the privileges necessary to PM you. 🤣

Quotes source post: 18912335

Ok,you haven't had enough posts yet. You can message me through the website www.ultimateaos.com

Like many others have pointed out, a stubby and a good feel for reaching into blind spaces will make the bitch bolt... easy. ​ Going in blind, but I've had to do this once or twice before Close-up And the trash that came out... a few coolant lines and a toasted AOS ​ Coolant lines capped. Just need to reinstall now... looking for suggestions/ tips and tricks (this is the right place for that, yes?? lol) Mines a 99. Looking pretty straightforward. ​

Looking good @2mAn !! Yes I have a Tip for you, on the 99 c2 you will need to bend the aluminum change-over valve relocation bracket 90* ...The 99 C2 is the only one that needs this exception, all others can go as is...Most people instinctive know to bend the bracket, but I have had quite a few people ask why it doesn't fit with the ICS in the way.. I have been meaning to add that note to the instructions, but have been so busy, but I just now updated the instructions to include that note.. So thanks for asking !! The AOS only has two bolts that hold it on, and the UAOS only adds two more screws, all the rest is quick release clips and clamps..... But there are about 10 different ways to go about the install depending on how much stuff you need/want to get out of the way to access. Some people need/want everything out of the way, some people need/want to take nothing out of the way, some can do the install in an hour and a half, some will take 10 hours +..lol The main thing is to do it the way you can enjoy it..

Quotes source post: 18883781

Will this be obvious where its supposed to go? I've been trying to make sure I'm 100% prepared when I have my window of wrenching time. Sorry for the random questions.. but there might be more until I get this done. So far its been relatively easy and that makes me nervous LOL

Quotes source post: 19001498

Yes, it will be obvious. The flexible power brake hose with the plastic elbow that has two internal o-rings that are notorious for leaking, will have a hard time reaching across the CNC Black Aluminum Anodized Accumulator. This extended rubber/aluminum "Z" elbow will fit nicely and be leak-proof...

This is the best picture that has been posted showing how the coolant by-pass caps are installed for the UAOS kit.... A picture is worth a thousand words and this pic by @2mAn will help people that even though I put the exploded parts diagram in with the coolant by-pass kit that comes in the UAOS kit, I still get many many questions about how the caps are suppose to go.. So I think I will go through this very long thead and grab the best pictures and make some paint arrows ect, and do a "condensed thread" on how to install the UAOS since there are so many ways to go about it.. Coolant by-pass caps location

anyone have any install pictures for a 986 boxster? I skimmed through 50 pages and didnt see any boxster installs. A track kit has shown up and I am a little bit confused with the vague instructions that came with the kit. Mainly looking for what connections go where on the AOS. There are 2 norma ports. I understand one goes to the accumulator, but what about the other? Does it use the factory plastic pipe crossing over from drivers side head? Thanks.

Quotes source post: 19004358

Here are some pics for Boxster/Cayman UAOS installs..It's really straightforward to install.. For the 986 you will want to connect the System to the passenger side of the intake plenum (USA) For the 987 you will want to connect the System to the drivers side of the intake plenum ( USA) .. Remember with the Track Version you can run up to 1 qt more oil "overfull",,..that's very important.. The CNC Black Aluminum Anodized Accumulator is actually ambidextrous and either port can be used as in or out.. The "modified LifeTime AOS" can still use the same cross-over pipe from the bank 2 head to the AOS..

Thanks Skip - I'm plotting my UAOS purchase soon. I seems like the track version is the best overall choice, given the no fuss no muss oil return line? Just replace the diaphrams and let the oil change cadence sort out the rest? I don't have a lot of interest in emptying an accumulator, tbh.

I had a hard time locating the solenoid. This is how I ended up installing it tho I know it isn�t right. It fits but I have to unplug it to add oil. 2002

Quotes source post: 19004840

On an engine in good health with nominal blow-by, that is driven in a normal manor without a lot of short trips, there is no accumulation in the Accumulator in 5k miles...But I still recommend to check/drain the Accumulator at oil change intervals" just in case"....The emission legal Street Version was the first UAOS System I designed and is 4x more efficient than the stock AOS.. That said the Emission Legal Street/Track/High Mileage Version is the most popular now and is an evolution of the UAOS System..It makes it maintenance free for the street and high mileage cars ,and adds more performance to the System for cars that are also Tracked. If you don't know the true health of your engine or the blow-by, you should test it using this thread.. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...+engine+health After testing the blow-by/health, if you engine is healthy, here is the oil fill recommendations.. For the UAOS Street Version , fill to the" full" mark or up to .5qts "overfull" ( no need to run at 1/2 on the stick as has been recommended for the stock AOS) For the UAOS Street/Track/ High Mileage Version you may fill to .5 to 1.0qts "overfull" ...for Track Events..

Got it. Muchos thankos!

Quotes source post: 19005148

That's the way it has to be done on the 99C2 due to the ISC is sticking out in the way, but not necessary on all others, but is fine to do it that way also... Yes it makes pulling the dipstick out a kinda "thread the needle" affair... Just be glad you have a dip-stick at all, 997/987 owners would love to have that problem...lol BTW, your engine bay looks very clean and nice !!

So it sounds like I did install it correctly then @Porschetech3 ? I can live with it especially considering all the benefits the UAOS provides. And thanks for the compliment on the engine. It should be clean since it only has about 700 miles on it. BTW, so far, no oil in the catch can. And I passed CA SMOG today. No questions asked!

Quotes source post: 19005381

Yes you did it correctly, it really is pretty straightforward... Thanks for letting me know you passed CA SMOG, so far all the UAOS Systems ( and it's quite a lot of them) that are in CA has passed with no questions asked.....I knew they were Legal, but didn't know if some knuckle-head Inspector may cause some grief..

Quotes source post: 19003340

I think this is great idea. I would love to see a condensed version.

Just a anecdotal report ,, My engine had the UAOS on it from day 1 when I got the motor back from flat 6. I was having the too sensitive warning light, that has mostly resolved itself as the engine broke in.. Another bit,, I got about 1/3 cup of water in that I drained out the forst oils change, as the car has broken in the amount of liquid captured has dropped a bit each 1000 miles.. Last time I checked I think I got a teaspoon out at by 2200 miles. (Not scientific mind you I use a small paper cup to drain the thing.. )

Quotes source post: 19011584

Thanks for giving your personal experience....it sounds absolutely perfect as expected during break-in...

Quotes source post: 19011584

Wonder where the water came from? Condensation in the motor? I have about 1000 miles on my 4.0 rebuild and I have not had any oil on my UAOS can. And it isn�t using much oil. Wonder what the difference is?

Quotes source post: 19003340

That would be very helpful Skip. As you know Talin at Import Performance did the UAOS install for me, so I know next to nothing about it. Now that I'm in the sticks, I'm looking for any info that will help. There's no Talin for me to count on here, that's for sure. In fact I upgraded my AAA to the 'premier' level, so if I break down, I can have the car towed to Halifax Porsche. Ok so far, and it's never failed me yet. The roads here are awesome. I'm trying to get plenty of drives in before the salt goes on the roads. Grrr.

Quotes source post: 19012704

I live in Oregon it was June when I was first breaking it in,, and I was religiously keeping it under 4K for the first 1500. I also broke it in with E-Free 92. Maybe the non E gas has more moisture content? Once the motor started really seating in it definitely stopped collecting much of anything, especially once I could run the full RPM range..

Quotes source posts: 19012704, 19013045

Water is a by-product of the combustion process of Internal Combustion Engines.. For every gallon of gasoline burned, a gallon of water is produced ( most going out of the tailpipe as water vapor).. I know it is hard to believe, but is true facts.. On a healthy M96 engine, 14LPM ( liters per minute) at idle or 80 LPM under full throttle, of combustion gases will enter the crankcase.due to "blow-by"( more before the engine is broken-in or if it is unhealthy) Of this 14-80 LPM 13% will be water in the form of water vapor... Water or water vapor ( H2o) is 33% oxygen 66% Hydrogen and will be re-burned through the crankcase ventilation system ( AOS System/UAOS System).as it is re-cycled through the combustion process.. During short trips , first starts, or cold weather, some of the water vapor can/will condense in the crankcase of the engine and Accumulator of the UAOS to form water, but will be returned back to water vapor/gas when the engine warms up to operating temps for a period of time and be re-burned leaving no water at all.. What are the causes high water accumulation in the crankcase of the engine or Accumulator of the UAOS::: 1.High blow-by due to fresh engine not yet broken -in , or by a worn engine that is not sealing properly 2 Short trips....any trip of less than 30 min is considered a short trip 3 Cold weather

Skip, I bought the UAOS from you a few years ago. After some sensor issues, with it coming on every once in a while, I just unplugged it. I have the black anodized accumulator. I was looking at getting the drain, but I'm curious about which one to get, or what else I should get since I'm doing it. Should I get the UAOS High mileage/extreme track duty auto-drain for $175 or the UAOS high mileage/extreme track duty fittings for 75? Also, should I get the coolant bypass kit? I think that's about everything listed on your website. I don't know what version UAOS I bought from your since its been such a long time. Also, I'm glad things seem to be working out with you and Noah. Ultimate AOS

@diddy2003 the high mileage/Extreme Track Duty Auto-Drain comes in two forms a $175 and a $75 kit ...The only difference is that the $175 kit comes with a new oil fill pipe that has the Uniseal and brass connector pre-installed. The $75 kit you will have to drill a 1/2" ( .500") hole in your existing ( new/fresh) oil fill tube and install the Uniseal and brass connector...Both kits have the Banjo fitting, Banjo Bolt, clamps, and hose, and are the exact same function.... Have you tried turning the Sensor 90* from it's installed position? The early Sensors were sensitive to water vapor and marking them and turning them 90* in either direction would place them in a less sensitive area of the tip...I had SST Sensing in the UK make us a specific Sensor for our cars that is much less sensitive to water vapor and takes real submersion to switch states..Plug the Sensor back in and turn it 90* and see if that fixes it...I want all the Systems to be used as designed.. The coolant by-pass kit has been included with all UAOS 996 kits for about two years. Only the very first ones didn't get the coolant by-pass kit. Are you sure yours does not have the coolant by-passed? Yes, I just last week shipped Noah 300lbs of 6061 Aluminum sawed blocks to make a dozen UIDS's to be delivered by Christmas,most of them already paid for, I have a few Cayman/Boxster ones that have not been spoken for..

@Porschetech3 I�m investigating a vacuum leak and I found the following part on my UAOS is loose and can basically pop out. So, it seems I may have found my leak, but what do I do about this? Also, it looks like the drain from below the UAOS is leaking ever so slightly. Attached are the videos.

Another one! You can see a stream of smoke coming out of the top of the UAOS connection in the rear.

I can send you another CNC Black Anodized Accumulator and you can just swap it out ( two screws +clamps) . Send the old one back, I can fix it easily...Those aluminum tubes are just pressed in to the aluminum accumulator with .004" press fit... The Banjo Bolt/fitting should be torqued to snug + 1/4 turn.... Those connections are on the crankcase side of the flow regulator and will not cause much of a vacuum leak, because there is not much vacuum there (3-5 inh20), so be sure to retest after those are fixed..

Quotes source post: 19087894

Thanks Skip. I texted you last night when I was with Noah doing an oil change on the car. I ended up ordering the drain with the new oil fill pipe and the coolant bypass kit. I wasn't sure if I had the bypass kit or not. I will adjust the sensor when I put them on.

Quotes source post: 19091702

Hi Patrick, I got you order and have the high mileage/Extreme Track Duty Auto-Drain kit and coolant by-pass kit in hand, I just need to box them up and ship them. I mite get them shipped out today or Monday for sure.. Tell Noah hi for me and I am anxious for him to start making aluminum chips...lol

Quotes source post: 19091846

I am excited to see how they come out. I'm on my third accumulator drain plug, so I figured I should just order the drain kit. I wonder if heat in the engine bay breaks the plastic down, and they just fall apart. It will be easier to just get the auto-drain kit and ditch the plugs. I have extras, but when they break, they are a pain to take out. I have no idea if I had the coolant bypass, so for 25 bucks, might as well just get it. If I don't need it, I will just put in the parts bin for the next person that needs it here.

Quotes source post: 19091860

It don't think it's the heat, those drain plugs are OEM for Mercruiser Marine engines to drain the block and exhaust manifolds...that's right the "exhaust manifolds"....they are used on the exhaust manifolds although the Marine exhaust manifolds are water-cooled they still get plenty hot.. They should be tightened to finger tight+ 1/4 turn only...I think they break due to over tightening.......or righty-tighty..lefty-loosey getting reversed since it is upside down...lol..I have never broken one... Anyway the Track Drain kit has a Grade 8 Steel 1/2" Button-head Banjo Bolt for the drain connection......

Quotes source post: 19091878

That makes more sense. I had an extra one, so I just screwed it in just enough for it to stay.

When it rains it pours�. I�m diagnosing whether or not I have an intermittent TPS and now the coolant slow flash has returned after seven months of use (about 4500 miles) on the UAOS. What�s weird is that it came on today after the engine was running for about 8-10 minutes so it could very well be the engine compartment sensor acting up. I previously fixed the issue by applying ceramic coating on the sensor eye and turning the sensor 90�. Is the next step to slightly overfill the coolant?

I also recently had the low coolant warning. When I decided to take a look, the coolant looked fine. Then I found the wiring had dropped down and was rubbing on the alternator pulley. A quick wiring repair and a wire tie to keep the wiring away from the pulley, and everything looks fine now. I did upgrade to Skip's newer shorter banjo bolt to help prevent an oil leak from the longer bolt. So far it's looking better too.

Yea, I have made SST Sensing in the UK to make a Sensor specifically designed for us !! The lab grade " off-the-shelf" Sensor they suggested to me was just too sensitive to water vapors...they say most of thierr customers want the most sensitive lab grade sensor they can get, but I found that on some cars in some climates that they are just too sensitive...Coating the tip with ceramic wax and turning 90* fixes most situations...But if you have done these and confirmed that the sensor is too sensitive, I can swap it out for the"new less sensitive" sensor/harness.. Remember there are three things that can cause the"slow blink"...1) low coolant switch ..2) under engine lid temperature ...3) UAOS Sensor @TexSquirrel Yes I had to start making my own Banjo Bolts by cross-drilling some button head bolts...I was previously just buying them from S&S, they were the only ones making anything even close, although a little long,but they kept running out of them and the cost kept going up, so I started making them myself, they are much better and no problems with supply...lol

Quotes source post: 19099508

Mind sending me one of those "less sensitive" versions? I've just left mine unplugged after messing with it repeatedly. Also, I am about to install the drain/oil fill tube I bought from you. How much more oil will I be able to run with this setup? Should I get a different dipstick? Thank you. The sumps look great btw.

I have to clean the sensor and coat it with ceramic wax about every two months. I'm looking for an easy way to connect and disconnect the wires. The gauge is so small that it's difficult to find something that works.

Quotes source posts: 19304994, 19305303

I posted a "TSB" with this picture/diagram about a year ago that shows how the Optical Micro-processor Controlled Infra-red Sensor is designed and functions, and that turning it 90* in either direction will make it "less sensitive" to water droplets/condensation...( which was supposedly not effected by water droplets/condensation or bubbles, but it was) .. and if turning it 90* doesn't fix the problem, I am happy to send the " new updated Sensor/Harness" , it has a "Two Year Unlimited Mileage Warranty" on it...The "AOS" itself has a "Lifetime Warranty" on it and will never need replacing.. If you notice in the picture that the Infra-red light beams contact and bounce off the tip at positions 180* from each other and if the threads happen to be so that these light beams end up at 12 O'Clock and 6 O'Clock, it will be more sensitive to water drop-lets....If you turn the Sensor 90* in either direction, the Infra-red light beams will hit/bounce off the tip at 3 O'Clock and 9 O'Clock, this is the least sensitive position for the Sensor Index, because the water drop-lets will tend to hang on the lowest spot on the tip... The Infra-red light will be dispersed in the water/liquid and less light will be sent to the receiver , so the Micro-processor will detect this change and change the state of the Sensor... The "TSB" thread is here, and has much more on trouble shooting the "slow flash warning" ... https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...low-flash.html The NEW Sensor is " totally insensitive to water vapors" and must be submerged in liquid to disperse the Infra-red light and change states... With the UAOS Track Version you can run 1 qt overfull mark....Note : If you have tested your blow-by using my designed blow-by test proceure and have less than 15 LPM @ idle and less then 80 LPM @ WOT, you can run even more..........up to 1 more qt depending on the LPM value... And No, it does not cause a loss of horsepower (due to the Integrated Dry Sump system), and no windage problems or gasket problems ... ...( unless your engine has blow-by problems or stock AOS ) One more note: always use a 50 weight Track Oil for Track Events... Yes the wire gauge is small but extremely tough for it's size. I wrapped the Sensor wires around a cast iron 4" vise that weight about 35 pounds, and holding onto the Sensor only, lifted the cast iron vise off the ground...lol... The wire gauge is 22 ga

Quotes source post: 19306567

I�ve tried rotating the sensor and the slow blink still happens. I�d prefer to try the new sensor if able. Just let me know how much money you need. PM or text me. Thanks. I currently have your UAOS and LN .5 quart sump. So I�d be able to add 1.5 quart over stock capacity? For some reason I thought there was a different dipstick available that I could get for the added capacity.

Quotes source post: 19307389

I had the same issue with my 99. Rotation and the ceramic wax only last about 6 months before the blink retuned. Skip shipped me a new sensor and it�s been all good ever since.

Quotes source post: 19307389

If you have a 996.1 the factory fill is 9.3 qts If you have a 996.2 engine before eng.# M...662 1175 the factory fill is 9.3 qts If you have a 996.2 engine after eng # M...662 1176 the factory fill is 8.7 qts The factory "lower the oil fill" by .5 qts due to inadequacies of the stock AOS.... You can use the 996.1 dipstick ( 9.3 qts ) in the 996.2 engine if you have the UAOS..( doesn't have to be the Track Version) 9.3 qt dipstick 8.7 qt dipstick Yes, with UAOS Track Version AND .5 qt Deep Sump, you can run 1.5 qt higher capacity / 1.0 qt above full mark .... Yes, the "new updated Sensor/Harness" is totally immune to water vapor/condensation !! 100% Guaranteed !!

Quotes source post: 19307885

Thanks. I have a 996.1. So I guess I have the correct dipstick then. I thought there was another one for the increased capacity. No worries. I will just add another quart and make a line on the dipstick I have.

Quotes source post: 19309216

Beautiful car !! Is the Polar Silver or Artic Silver...? Looks like Polar Silver in that light...

Quotes source post: 19309258

Thanks. Its Polar. Noah and I have done a lot to it over the years. Winter Projects Completed followed by Road Trip - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums

Quotes source post: 19309397

Very tastefully done upgrades.....Sally is Polar Silver and I am very partial to the color!!

Quotes source post: 19309545

Very nice. OEM 997 Turbo wheels? Funny, after all these years, I didn't even know you had a 996.1.

Quotes source post: 19309639

Yes, they are OEM Fuchs in the "997 Turbo style" but were made for the 997 C2 narrow body...kinda rare... 8.5 x 19 ET51 front and 11 x 19 ET67 rear... I fell in love with them when they came out on the 997 Turbo, .......and in 2008 when they offered them in the C2 offsets I had to have them !! New the set Retails for almost $10k but you used to be able to find some pull-offs for about $2k a set......IF anyone see's a nice set of the NB Fuchs,( for ~ $2k), I'd take another set !!

Quotes source post: 19309695

Very cool. I never knew they made narrow body versions. I also used to run 997 19 inch wheels. Lobsters. 19x11 et 67 with no spacers. 295/30/19s. At one point I ran 305/30s with no issue. And 19x8 et 57 with 14mm spacers. 235/35/19s. Thats nice you have a 8.5 inch front wheel. I�m currently running a 245 front tire on a 9 inch wheel with a 295 rear. It�s nice to have the wider wheel in the front.

Quotes source post: 19309854

Yea, you can find the wide body ones all day long, but the narrow body ones are pretty rare... I like the Lobsters too ( my 2nd favorite OEM design), but the Fuch design just does it for me as my all time favorite...

Quotes source post: 19309903

They fit the car well. I really liked them. I just couldn�t turn down a set of E88s. This is with the 305 rear.

Quotes source post: 19309914

I think the E88's are the best aftermarket wheel available but aesthetically those Lobsters on your car look HOT !!! ( I think your whole car looks hot,, I want it ..lol)

Quotes source post: 19309957

Thanks! I really liked the lobsters. They seemed to fit the car well, but the E88s are amazing. SOOOOO much lighter. I'm looking forward to the drain/new sensor with more capacity.

Quotes source post: 19313948

Yes the E88's are incredibly light weight, but I wanted a more robust wheel for the Bama pot-holed roads ie. the Forged Fuchs... Your UAOS Track Drain Option upgrade and the upgraded new Sensor/Harness is boxed and labeled, just have to drop it off at the UPS store...

Quotes source post: 19314411

Thank you. I'm just seeing this. I already have the extreme track duty drain with new oil fill tube option from you. I just need the new sensor. I just ordered a LN transmission magnetic drain plug to go with the LN oil plug I have. Doing all fluids soon prior to driving season in MA. Will be nice with the added capacity. I also got this for track days. I have very little ankle flexibility and rev matching has also been kinda difficult. This should help. AUTO-BLiP | Intelligent Downshifts Gallery | AUTO-BLiP

Quotes source post: 19319287

You should join us at one of our 996fest track days!

theperf, Can you tell ma about the 996fest track days for those of us nearby?

Quotes source post: 19319287

Yes, sorry Patrick, I got you and Stephen mixed up...( I'm getting older by the min..lol) you both ordered updated Sensor/Harnesses at the same time and sometimes I get screen-names and "real names" mixed up.....Yours should be there tomorrow.. I love the Auto-Blip Device, it brings the 996 up to "modern Track Day Technology"......( wish they would make one for the 99 C2 cable-TB cars also)

Quotes source posts: 19320485, 19320539

Details? That sounds fun. Thank you. No worries!

Quotes source post: 19320521

I think the one that many are going to is mass tuning limerock 7/1-2. There is also an event at limerock the Friday and Saturday after Memorial Day that myself and @De Jeeper are attending.

Yes, what Brad said. We just show up with a bunch of 996's to a track day and have a great time. Be warned that Brad and Aaron are pretty serious about this and are really fast drivers. I am heading out to Lime Rock on April 25th with Track Night in America, weather permitting.

Quotes source posts: 19321160, 19323512

Thank you. I will try to swing by for the 996 event. That sounds pretty cool.

What is are the differences between 996.1 MT C2 vs C4 and eGas vs cable throttle? Seems like they should be minor.

If you run the UIDS and the UAOS with the track drain, what's the recommended capacity total? Just want to confirm -Matt

Quotes source post: 19327488

No difference between 996.1 C2 and C4.....All 996.1 are the same kit except the 99C2 w/cable TB ....it takes a different kit ..

Quotes source post: 19356182

Recommended oil fill for Track work UIDS alone .......9.9qts w/filter ...Note:On any m96/7 engines UIDS with UAOS Track Version ....10.9 qts w/filter UIDS with UAOS Track Version and less than 80 LPM as measured by this technique https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...=Engine+health ....11.9 qts w/filter

Quotes source post: 19356212

Don't know if anyone caught the significance of being able to handle running 1 qt more oil over full using the UAOS Track version in Skips post on the UIDS. AND, if you pass Skips blow by test, you may be able to run 2qts over full. That's significant. From experience I can tell you that the OEM AOS cannot handle running full oil (9.9). Forget about 1 qt over full (10.9). The Porsche Motorsports AOS can handle running full oil (9.9), but it cannot handle running 1 qt over full (10.9). So with an engine that passes Skips blow by test, you can run 11.9. Cool. Very cool. Nice work Skip.

Well, running 20% more oil and the thermal properties of that must be amazing. So much more volume to have to get hot when on the track would be a really good thing!

Yeah, the M96 likes lots of cool oil. Prevents alot of issues we don't want.

Quotes source post: 19362280

Thanks !!

I have a UAOS with Track Duty Auto-Drain installed on my '01 Supercharged C2. The car runs perfectly, but when I drive it hard, it experiences excessive crankcase pressure, causing oil to leak from the oil fill cap/vent valve on the valve cover. Has anyone installed this oil separator/catch can on a supercharged car? If so, have you had the same experience? How can I fix it, or should I remove the UAOS?

Any thoughts on what this residue is that wipes off the drain plug of the UAOS reservoir? I�ve had the UAOS installed for a year and a half and I never have any oil in the reservoir, just this orangey-brown dried residue on the plug. 1999 C2 with 111k miles, zero appreciable oil burn, no coolant loss, and DT40 oil changes every 6 months.

Quotes source posts: 19391640, 19605385

@escreation Sorry I missed this post, must have been a lot of posts at the time and it got burried quickly.. I but I think you are talking about the over-pressure dump valve on the bank 2 breather hose connector that is used on the 996.1 cars....They tend to leak oil even on high mileage non-Supercharged cars..The 996.2 cars don't have these and I recommend that they be capped/plugged off.. Also I would recommend that you test the blow-by on your engine to see how Liters Per Minute of blow-by your engine has.. That orangy-brownish residue is the water vapor condensation reacting with the oil vapors and additives..Same as the stuff that is sometimes found in the oil fill tube under the oil cap...Just clean it off, it does no harm..

Quotes source post: 19605627

Interesting,,, never thought of how the AOS system would work on a boosted m96..? With basically no substantial vacuum ever on the AOS diaphragm, instead it seeing positive pressure majority of time of maybe 10psi or more ?, how can aos open to vent the crankcase...? Whats the best way to vent a boosted engine's crankcase...?

Quotes source post: 19605977

Supercharged or Turbocharged engines pressurize the Intake System under moderate to heavy acceleration so considerations have to be made.....The Intake to AOS connection has to be blocked/and diverted under these cirumstances ( EPA Legal) or the set up has to have the Crankcase Ventallation /AOS routed to the air cleaner instead of the Intake ( not EPA Legal) .... Either way the "Boosted" engine will increase torque which will increase blow-by and will need a more efficient AOS system like the UAOS System to keep from over-whelming the system for maximum performance...

Quotes source post: 16461408

not doing the UAOS upgrade, above my pay grade, but would like to replace plastic connector, what kind of clamps to use on hoses?

Quotes source post: 19607408

14mm-9/16 worm gear clamps will work fine

Skip, Noah and I finally checked the blow by on my 2001 3.4 C2. I have the UAOS + track drain. The blow by check showed 2.6 inh2o on my 111k engine. It has definitely been apart and rebuilt prior to my ownership, but I have zero information on the work. With the result of 2.6 inh2o, UAOS, track drain, and LN .5 sump, what do you suggest the oil capacity should be? Thank you.

Quotes source post: 19629721

You should also test blow-by at WOT using the .221 orifice for most accurate Prescription .. But based on this, my Prescription for Track oil fill is 11.3 qts ( with new filter and min of 30 min drip time) 996.1 = 9.3qts + .5 qt sump+ UAOS T ( 1.0 qts) + 2.6 inh20 (.5qts).....

Quotes source post: 19630678

Thanks Skip.

Quotes source post: 16461055

30 min! You�re hired 😃 I fancy myself a very good window wash reservoir topper offer. Have really honed in my technique and process over the years. Always impressed me to see real mechanical hand talent at work. Would pay for that any day,

Ok I tried.. but 55 pages is a lot! I am thinking of getting the UAOS, and need a little help which configuration. I assume I don�t need the Elite version�? But I do need the 1999 cable throttle version, and since I�m both high mile and want to do some track time, I need the auto drain. While I did just do my water pump and some hardlines replacement, I think I�m going to have my Indy do the install. He is not familiar with the UAOS, but he is familiar with replacing OEM AOS, is the labor hours about the same? Is there a simple guide I can share of any specifics, he won�t read 800 posts Anything ELSE I need so I don�t have to order things mid install? Thanks!

Quotes source post: 19647071

There is no need to read the 800+ posts here in this thread if you are familiar with the Factory AOS ........ The UAOS install is literally only 2 more small screws and some caps and clamps to eliminate the coolant/heating lines... The 99 C2 ( cable TB) .. does take a different kit from the rest ( UAOS-AL-MY99).....And the Optional Track Drain kit ...( UAOS-AD) .. Nothing else is NEEDED , but I can't say what condition your cross-over breather tube is in.....The UAOS System can be installed without replacing the cross-over, but if you ( you tech) break the original one during the install, it will need to be replaced............Many are done without replacing the cross-over tube, but some prefer to replace it anyway or to have it available "just in case"...

Quotes source post: 19647079

Thanks, that helps. Are you the manufacturer of it? I see it's listed on LN's website but also has its own website. Does it matter where i order from? Is there a benefit of getting elite, i saw it says "oem" parts. Also on the website it says there are three versions : Street, Street and Track, and Track: with different emissions standards. Though i don't see a way to order a different config. This would be for street+track purposes.

Quotes source post: 19648127

Yes, I am the Inventor/developer/Patent holder/maker of the UAOS System.... LN is my the retailer for the USA ( but they also ship to other counties) and is the same price as on the website. LN has the most popular models in stock for fast delivery as they order in quantities. Ordering from the website sometimes can have a lead time of up to 3-4 weeks due to supply/demand..it is a niche market ... The Elite model uses a Genuine Porsche AOS that is modified to be LIFETIME , and uses a Genuine Audi/VW flow regulator, where as the AL model uses aftermarket AOS that is modified to be LIFETIME ....Both are PA66 Nylon with 35% glass filled, Material studies show this material under extreme pressure and heat will last ~40 years, under Automotive use will last ~150 years.... The Street model does not have the Track Drain and should be checked/drained at normal OCI intervals, when you add the Track Drain kit it becomes the Street and Track version that is higher performance and maintenance free allowing extra oil to be added for Track use, but is still emission compliant even in California... The Track/Race Only model is a newer version that is NOT emission compliant and is usually custom built due to cars that are not as factory designed...They are not advertised or stocked as they usual require a custom build to fit the modified cars and only available for 996 and Cayman models at this time... The Factory AOS is one of the biggest drawbacks of the M96 design...and the Motorsport AOS actually makes the oil starvation problem worse ...( it holds more oil in the AOS that is needed in the sump)..

UAOS ordered. I went with the "standard" version with auto-drain and option for MY99 cable throttle. Now the next question is... do i attempt the install myself or take it all to the indy. I have done water pump and upgraded some of the hard/soft water lines to the newer style (there was a difference between the early 996s and later). But that job was pretty straight forward. AOS removal looks daunting. And is there anything else I should consider replacing at the same time. I have a Quickjack.

Quotes source post: 19647079

Do you still have your custom crossover pipe available,? it looked very nice and heavy duty....

Quotes source post: 19719868

Most of the work is from the top side. The only thing you go under the car for is the actual AOS removal and install. A lift would be better than quick jacks. Personally I didn�t find the job that difficult. Sorting out how it all goes back together took some time scrolling through this thread for pics and finding the right orientation of the parts. Basically I think the hardest part was your putting things back together that are different than what was there. This is not the norm. It�s a mod not a one for one.

Quotes source posts: 19719868, 19719924

Rate your mechanical ability from 1-10 ...10 being you can fix anything from cars, boats, motorcycles, lawn mowers, weedeaters, tracktors, ect. and have successfully completed many many attempts over time...... Then I can advise you on whether I think you can do the UAOS install without much fuss... In my mind it is very straightforward , but I see many people struggle with things I would never have thought would be an issue... Yes I still have a dozen or so on the shelf !!

Well, before the 996 i've changed my car's oil, changed a tire, and a battery. On the 996 i've done motor mounts, cabrio fluid, trans fluid, water pump and some hard pipes. I'm pretty handy but yeh will be a lot of referring to forums if I attempt it. I do semi-know someone in the area who did it himself.

@Porschetech3 i have had the UAOS on my new build for about 15 months and 10k miles. I fill the stock sump with 9qts of oil and drive it hard. No oil in the catch can, ever. No oil in the manifold. Thanks for putting together a good product that fixes a faulty design and does what it says.

Quotes source post: 19722422

Same experience here. Installed in 07/2021 originally by the outfit that reinstalled my FSI Stage 1 rebuild. Subsequently replaced part of the harness that got buggered on the original install. Since then, no issues. UAOS just works and no oil in the catch can ever. John

Quotes source posts: 19722422, 19731239

Thanks for the Testimonials guys !!! UAOS is a unique patented product that cures many deficiencies on the M96 engine.... Porsche realized some of the symptoms and is why they lowered the oil level 1/2 qt on the 996.2 ....But that led to more spun rod bearings on the 996.2...And the Porsche Motorsport AOS made by Mann+ Hummel only helps to keep oil from the intake while increasing the likelihood of spun rod bearings by holding/lowering the oil level by another 1/2 qt.... But as we say..hind-site is 20-20 .....The invention and development of UAOS eliminated the need to run lower oil levels. and the UAOS Track facilitates running higher oil levels than factory to avoid spun rod bearings...+ eliminates coolant lines and the problems associated with that, and the hard to access location, and is also 4x more efficient for less oil consumption and emissions.. As some have said, it is the Swiss Army KNife of M96 problems... Thank you for your support !!

Quotes source post: 19721757

This was the first DIY I did on mine. If you have space to leave the car in pieces and take your time doing it, its not a bad job overall. Taking everything out was relatively easy and then reinstalling everything was not so bad overall. I also called a few shops in my area and none wanted to deal with installing "aftermarket" parts, and they stayed pretty quiet when I told them its dumb to reinstall the failure prone AOS...

Quotes source post: 19731582

Thanks for the note. My indy quoted 4-6 hrs based on an OEM AOS (knowing that it was aftermarket). So, I'm weighing the ease of that option, but I also like idea of doing it myself. I bought another 996 coupe that should arrive this or next week, and plan is to make that the track car, so going to dig into that and probably do the UOAS in there right off the bat.

Just a heads up...UAOS System kits for 996's are on backorder as of now......LN Engineering still has a good many in stock so if you were planning a Christmas Present for your 996 , better git it now because when those are gone it will be after New Years before there will be more available........

Do you happen to know if they have the track/high mileage available or is that on backorder as well?

Quotes source post: 19749566

Yes I sent them a large stock order recently so there should be quite a few optional Track Drain kits on the shelf also....

Quotes source post: 19749589

Awesome - ordering now! Is there somewhere that has a good install guide for the track drain as well?

Quotes source post: 19749693

The Track Drain kit is very straightforward, it comes with a new oil fill tube with the Track Drain pre-installed. Just install the oil fill tube and screw the Banjo fitting into the bottom of the Accumulator and tighten 1/4 turn... In this thread there are pics,Tips, and Tricks if you need them..

Quotes source post: 19750057

Awesome. This thread is great for seeing how to put one in! Looks like I missed the last of the 996.1 UAOS that LN had so I'll be waiting for your next batch

Quotes source post: 19750210

Sorry about that the supply/demand thing got away from me, just waiting on the CNC Machine shop to do their thing and there will be more available... thanks for your patience , New Year will be here before you know it !!

@Porschetech3 Can you confirm how the train drain is connected? I have 3 plastic washers and the banjo bolt. I previously installed 2 of the washer between the UAOS body and the drain line, and one between the drain line and the bolt head. When doing some other maintenance I noticed a very very small oil leak coming from the 2 washers. So I'm just wanting to confirm I had the order correct.

@binaryaudax yes the Banjo Fitting needs 2 washers (or thick washer) between the Accumulator and the Banjo Fitting for room to install the rubber hose and clamp. The Banjo Bolt to Banjo Fitting only requires 1 sealing washer ...

I'm going to bring the UAOS with Track drain to my indy to get a soft quote for install. He's already said 4-6 hours for a OEM AOS, but reading through this thread (as much as I could), I want to account for any unknowns he might run into. For one, about half way in, there is a post about the early build 996's (like mine) needing a different elbow connector. Is there another post with just tips separated out? The problem is I don't know what I don't know. And beyond just giving him the box and saying "here ya go!" I don't know what to tell him (asking him to read 56 pages of a forum isn't going to work )

Quotes source post: 19825324

The UAOS System install is literally just two screws and two plug-n-play electrical connectors more than just replacing the OEM Factory AOS... Most of this 50 something pages of "tips and tricks" are about just how to R&R the factory AOS since there are several different procedures for the different models like 996.1 vs 996.2 ... Yes the early 99 needs a rubber elbow ( that comes in the kit) to replace the factory plastic one that leaks so frequently.. Yes the recommended labor rate charge for the UAOS System install is 4 hours + 1 hour for the optional Track Drain Kit / oil fill tube R&R for manual transmissions.....( many non-professionals can do it in less than 3 hours)

Quotes source post: 19825324

Exactly what PorscheTech3 said. I handed mine over to my Indie and he just did it.

You could find some photos of completed UAOS installations and print them out. I relied heavily on photographs while installing mine.

Thanks for getting my track drain kit to Australia. My UAOS was fitted engine out.