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YOUR RESEARCHThinking of a Quickjack - enough lift to drop motor?
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quickjack moves the car forward/backwards
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The potential problem is quickjack moves the car forward/backwards when raising and lowering,
Thinking of a Quickjack - enough lift to drop motor?
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Leading evidence: 'quickjack moves the car forward/backwards' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'quickjack moves the car forward/backwards' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check ee66503' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I build my ceilings at a (seemingly random) 10'-6" ceiling, so there isn't room for a proper two post lift, and the garage isn't large enough (only 28'x28') to keep a lift installed full time and be able to use both bays and the other space effectively.
Thinking of a Quickjack - enough lift to drop motor?
Use lift bars and jack stands
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i used the lift bars and jack stands that Slakker was talking about earlier in this thread (Thx for the great deal Slakker!).
Thinking of a Quickjack - enough lift to drop motor?
Check ee66503
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Thinking of a Quickjack - enough lift to drop motor?
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Suggestion
I've got a set on order along with a set of 4 - 6 ton Summit jackstands that go up to 24".
Thinking of a Quickjack - enough lift to drop motor?
Install full time and be able
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I build my ceilings at a (seemingly random) 10'-6" ceiling, so there isn't room for a proper two post lift, and the garage isn't large enough (only 28'x28') to keep a lift installed full time and be able to use both bays and the other space effectively.
Thinking of a Quickjack - enough lift to drop motor?
Use bays and the other space effectively
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Suggestion
I build my ceilings at a (seemingly random) 10'-6" ceiling, so there isn't room for a proper two post lift, and the garage isn't large enough (only 28'x28') to keep a lift installed full time and be able to use both bays and the other space effectively.
Thinking of a Quickjack - enough lift to drop motor?
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I haven't had a sports car for 20+ years (300ZX Turbo back in the day) and I've become a lazy SOB now that I am solidly in middle age. I'm thinking of buying a Quickjack - probably 5K model - to assist with work on the 996 and our Subaru Legacy.
If I am going to drop the $$$ on one, I want to make sure it's high enough for any work I might potentially do on the Porsche, including pulling the motor/trans.
https://www.quickjack.com/car-lift-s...-car-lift.html
It shows a max lifting height of 18" with the smallest rubber block - I don't think you could put a thicker one under it due to the ground clearance of the Porsche.. but maybe I am wrong.
Anyone have one? Is there enough height to drop the motor?
if you are looking to spend that much money get this
http://www.harborfreight.com/6000-lb...ift-91315.html
lots of good reviews. When I get done with my garage I am getting one.
If you go to Garage Journal, you will find lots of info on this subject .Slakker is correct, the MaxJax or similar are the best compromise. But if you have the space a 2 post asymetric or in-floor type are the ultimate tool. Lots of controversy about cheap chinese vs.USA made lifts. Bendpak & Greg Smith equipment have useful sites on which to daydream
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=334095
Porsche 996 on Maxjax:
The Ultimate Garage Lift - YouTube
with the cheesey lifts you may want to buy a Kobalt tool box also - see why:
Car Falls on Jimmie Johnson - YouTube
I would love a maxjax but my 2 car garage isn't really wide enough to use one plus I am not keen on drilling the anchors into the slab. They are much bigger for storage when not in use too . I am not keen on the scissor due to the lack of portability especially compared to the quick jack. I like the quickjack design better than the scissor. I have read some reviews and most of the later ones seem really positive especially compared to the older ones which had some real quality issues.
I guess question remains though, does a quickjack go high enough to drop the motor?
If quickjack doesn't raise the car high enough for engine/tranny drop, can you raise the car in
two steps.
1) raise the car with quickjack, then put jack stands under to support the car.
2) collapse the quickjack, and set it on a stack of well secured 2x12 or whatever size needed
to support the quickjack, and repeat.
The potential problem is quickjack moves the car forward/backwards when raising and lowering,
so it may be tricky to lower the car onto jackstands because of the movement.
My garage floor is made of small slabs of concrete so I cannot use a maxjack, so I got a 4-post
jack instead, but that is not convenient for working on wheels/brakes, and the opening between
the rails is now wide enough to drop the engine. I haven't figured out a solution yet, so I'm not
dropping my engine.
"I got a 4-post
jack
(???) instead, but that is not convenient for working on wheels/brakes,"
You mean
lift
surely ?
Unless this is what you have ?
Mobile Column Lifts - Jay Leno's Garage - YouTube
And yes you can do brakes/suspension on a 4 post LIFT - you just need the bridge jack attachment - see Bendpak or Greg Smith as I suggested previously
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/4-post-bridge-jacks/
You can easily improvise your own alternatives to the bridge jacks
I'm going to give the liftbars a shot. I've got a set on order along with a set of 4 - 6 ton Summit jackstands that go up to 24". I'm hoping I like the setup. If not, I'll probably go MaxJax.
Atlas 7000 from Otis Smith. I have a one car garage with 9' ceilings. I needed something compact and this has paid for itself 5x over at least.
30-40" Clearance. Enough to drop the Front Diff.
Or overhaul the entire suspension.
Or drop the exhaust system.
Or fully track prep in under an hour:
Is that 2x10 in front of the scissor so you can drive up it or did is serve some other purpose? Is the 911 too low to keep a scissor lift on the floor of the garage and just park on it all the time without one?
I'm going to countersink the lift into the floor this month.
My car sits at the lowest GT2 spec ride height and needs these 2"x10"s in order for me to be able to put the lift spacers in the jack points under the car.
Sub'd for updates, as I plan a tt clutch job...
I have been so close to pulling the trigger several times on a either a mid-rise scissor lift, or an ezcarlift, or a quickjack.
You need at least 25 1/2" to drop the motor and roll it out from under the car. Of course, your method of moving the motor will determine the actual height needed
I took a quick look at this one. Based on how it's constructed it looks like getting anything out from under the car would be either impossible or a huge pita. Engine and trans? Nope. It seems to block access to most of the underside of the car.
It does have some limitations, assuming lifting on the lift points it appears that the engine could come out easy enough, the trans however would likely be blocked.
Old post, but seems like a good place to add some thoughts.
It seems like those lifts would be good for wheel/tire/brake work and getting the engine up to an ok working height, but they'd block off a lot of the underside, and in some cases make it hard to do things like removing front transmission brackets, fuel filter, hoses, transmission removal, etc. And they seem like the height would be marginal for engine/transmission removal.
I have a Danmar Maxjax and it works okay for most things, but it is a major compromise. This lift does work well for removal of the 911 engine and transmission.
The Maxjax isn't tall enough to stand under (only lifts 4') and doing work underneath ends up being really uncomfortable. It is too low for most rolling shop seats (I haven't gotten around to fabbing up a lower one), so I usually end up kneeling and that gets old fast. It also only has a few stops where you can lock it in place with a metal bar - this is a huge compromise setup, and if the bars aren't in place could be a safety hazard. It really relies on the operator (rather than the mechanism) to put the stops in place. That makes it tricky to put it in intermediate positions as well - rather than the every 4" or 6" ladder locks on other lifts, you get two positions (something like 2' and 4') or you have to rig up something to act as a makeshift safety stop (jack stands can be pressed into service for a low height stop).
Danmar has a new version called the MX-6 that has better safety features that I'd look into if I was going to do it now. It's basically the same thing, but with a ratcheting ladder lock system, and is certified.
I'll also just be whiny and complain that the separate portable hydraulic cart is often in the way. It would be swell to have it attached to one of the posts. The hoses laying on the ground are often in the way too.
The major up side is that the Danmar portable two post lifts can be taken out of the way the 98% of the time you don't need them, and probably most importantly, they work on lower height ceilings (as low as 8', I think).
I build my ceilings at a (seemingly random) 10'-6" ceiling, so there isn't room for a proper two post lift, and the garage isn't large enough (only 28'x28') to keep a lift installed full time and be able to use both bays and the other space effectively.
My biggest beef is the 4' max lift height, but not much I can do about that.
What I'd like in my odd situation is a portable lift that goes up to 6' lift height, with a ladder lock safety system. I suspect that there is very little demand for this height lift though.
Get an EZ Car Lift. Much better than the Quickjack. Light years more stable and solidly built. I have done engine drops on 2 rear engined cars on mine no problem. Have not done my 996 but have had mine up on it several times, would be clear and easy to do the engine drop on it. I have seen the Quickjack up close, I would be afraid to get under the car on it, very unstable. Quickjack is really just made for wheel changes.
i used the lift bars and jack stands that Slakker was talking about earlier in this thread (Thx for the great deal Slakker!). I put the jack stands on top of double/side by side 6x6's so they didn't have to be fully extended. Worked like a charm and only cost me a couple hundred bucks... A lift would be awesome to have, but I'm not sure I do enough work to really justify it...
I went with the HF lift, great value with the 25% coupon, less than 1100.00 I left that car on the lift for more than 3 weeks just above the lock point while waiting on the bumper and spoiler paint being done, and never dropped a bit, but you will have to have 220 in the garage. this lift was built very solid and like it has 2 hyd. cylinders. when it is position correctly on the lift, you can remove the trans by itself.
I have the liftjacks and although they are great they only work on the 996 so i just purchased a quickjack so i can also use it for the 996 and my other vehicles. so far i have been very impressed and for additional height i plan to lift it, lower it onto raceramp wheel stands and then to put the quickjack on top of a wooden platform made out of 2x12s (or something similar) to give it extra height and then raise the car again.
