47 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHOil pressure question
Leading reported evidence
Tighten dme will have
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
And when the cap is replaced and tightened the DME will have to adapt the other way.
Leading evidence: 'Tighten dme will have' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'quietest out of all the cars i've looked at' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust idle speed' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
For the Carerra II wheels, they are pretty easy to find used, usually for $1k or less.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Easy enough to adjust idle speed with a screwdriver on the side of the throttle body.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
Honestly the engine was probably the quietest out of all the cars I've looked at so far.
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Suggestion
Check the dates on the insurance paperwork in the vehicle when you take it in for the ppi.
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47 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
Changed out new oil and filter and it fixed the problem.
Test drove a 99 C2 today. Really low mikes (45k). Car was pristine. We've agreed on a price pending a PPI. Only question I have is while at idle the oil pressure was around 1.5 bar. While driving the pressure held a constant 3 bar but did not go above even running the motor out to 6k rpms. Is that normal? I thought I had read to look for around 1 bar per 1k rpm. The engine was whisper quiet, no ticks and no noise, no leaks. Temp gauge never went past the 12 o'clock position. Does the 3 bar of pressure sound right?
My 996.1 owners manual says that 3.5 bar at 5,000 RPM is what the reading should be. But I take that as a minimum. If you didn't feel that the car had as much power as other cars, it very well might not.
Thank you. It never got above 3 bar. I was watching it closely. It never really strayed from 3 regardless of rpms except coming to a stop when it would drop to 1.5. I expected the gauge to rise and fall with rpm.
Mention this observation to the mechanic who is performing the PPI. And make note of oil pressure behavior at cold start vs. at operating temp.
The car could simply have a bad oil pressure sending unit...
Depending on the oil that is in the car and when they tell you it was last changed, If the oil has been in the car for a while, I would offer to pay for an oil change as part of the PPI. This way your mechanic can look for metallic sheen, or plastic and metal shavings in the sump and filter. If all is clean, you can consider the car further and start your ownership with fresh oil.
Even cold when the oil is thick? When I start my car in the morning, it's pretty much at 5+ bars, until it gets warm. Then the pressure will increase with RPM as it should. Sitting at 3 bars even at high RPM does not sound right.
I didn't get a chance to check the pressure at startup. The engine was cold but I asked the seller to fire it up while I stood behind the car looking for any tell tale signs of smoke from a bad AOS. There were none. No signs of soot on the tailpipes either and they hadn't just been freshly cleaned as far as I could tell. While the car was idling I stayed by the engine listening for any valvetrain noise and was looking under the car for leaks. Again, none. After approx 5 mins I got in to drive it but by then temp was around 160 and rose to 180 but never above that throughout the test drive. Honestly the engine was probably the quietest out of all the cars I've looked at so far. Zero hint of any ticking. I can understand a bad sending unit giving erroneous pressure readings but I was making a point to vary the rpms in all gears and it just hovered right at 3 bar.
I did observe the idle change when I removed the oil cap. Didn't die but idle was a little rougher with the cap off. Tube looked clean. Cap wasn't too hard to pull off. Did notice at stop lights the engine had a little vibration, more than others I've test driven and the idle was maybe 200rpms lower too. Maybe a simple air idle screw adjustment needed? Do 996's have those? My old mustang did. Easy enough to adjust idle speed with a screwdriver on the side of the throttle body.
Once underway the car was smooth. Just didn't have the same ***** as the other 99 I drove, but that had a GIAC software upgrade and Fabspeed exhaust so that may be why. Didn't have the pull of the 3.6s I've driven either but that could be down to the difference in displacement. Anyway, sorry for all the detail but I just want to be thorough. I have a fellow Rennliater checking out a car in NC tomorrow that I really like the looks of so will keep my options open. I still think the red 99 is worth a PPI. It's only a few hundred bucks which for a $20k car is nothing.
Have the PPI, change the oil, and check the sending unit. The extra pull from the other car could also be the psychological pull of the louder exhaust.
No type of idle screw on the 996. Like any other modern car, the idle is not user adjustable--usually done via software. FWIW, I doubt a PPI will trouble shoot a bad oil pressure sending unit. That's getting into shop diagnostics. I doubt a PPI will go into detail about oil pressure, unless of course you pay for the diagnostic seperately. If you can try and drive another 996 within the same day, it will tell you if the motor is lacking any power.
The 3.4l engines simply don't feel as torquey as the 3.6l engines. It's due to Variocam and the larger engine. It's pretty obvious when you compare the two side by side. Early road tests even commented that these 996s feel like a turbo engine the way the torque is applied. Totally normal.
A mechanic may be able to tap into the oil system and read the pressure with a meter. If you like the car, I would have this done. The fact that you had 1.5 bar at idle suggests that there might not be a problem with pressure at idle. Generally, low pressure is low pressure at all RPMs. The gauge might just be broken too, we don't know. I would not walk away from a car in this good of condition until I knew exactly what the issue was, and I would not buy a car that had low oil pressure either. Someone has to get to the bottom of it, and it might as well be the two of you - buyer and seller - if you're both up for it.
Came across another red flag. Yesterday I asked the seller how many owners the car had and how long he had owned it. He told me 6 months which I thought was odd, but he clarified it due to him being too big for the car and wanting to buy a jeep instead. I pulled the Carfax and the title was transferred 11/21/16, only 1 month ago, not 6. Maybe I'm being paranoid but I just have an uneasy feeling.
I've been known to lag getting to the paperwork side of a purchase, so a matter of a few months of discrepancy shouldn't be cause for much alarm. In California we have 30 days from acquisition to notify our insurance company of the added vehicle to the policy to be covered. Most people don't let that slide. Check the dates on the insurance paperwork in the vehicle when you take it in for the ppi. Since he's had it less than a year, the date the policy was started should be an indication of within 30 days of the purchase.
I wouldn't worry about that so much. I purchased a sports car where the owner bought a car on Craigslist in March and didn't register the car because the registration renewal wasn't due until November and the title wasn't dated. Unfortunately, the wife didn't like the car from a riding standpoint and couldn't drive a stick. I bought it in August. Basically he got to "rent" the car for 6 months.
I just asked the seller to take a pic of the oil pressure gauge at the first cold start as I had neglected to check that yesterday. Only 2 bar. Not good. Think I'm moving on.
You should be the one to start the engine from cold. You need to verify the CEL and other warning lights all come on when the key is turned to on and then all go off again as the engine starts and runs.
If the AOS is bad and bad enough to cause any smoking you will see this in the mirrors or as the cloud of oil smoke drifts past the car. The smoking will very likely continue, too.
The engine reacting to the filler tube cap removal is normal. Initially a mild stumble and some roughness but the DME should adapt. The idle should recover and while it may not be quite as smooth with the cap in place it shouldn't be too bad. And when the cap is replaced and tightened the DME will have to adapt the other way.
hey bash hat
i remember this car for sale in lake forest in the beginning of this year. It's from Orange County right? I actually have the exact same car, 99 guards red with gray interior. Buddy of wanted to buy it but didn't because it the engine felt weak some how compared to mine.
Thank you J! So I wasn't imagining it. Yeah, that's the car. Seller said he purchased it from an Asian gentleman in Lake Forest 6 months ago. Every other 911 I have driven really takes off after 4,000 rpm but this one just didn't & seemed a little flat throughout the rev range.
Thank you for confirming what I suspected!
That's exactly why forums like these are awesome. A wealth of information and help from like minded folks. Case in point I had a fellow RLister drive 90 mins out of his way today to go look at a car for me. Did a 30 minute Facetime call, went over the car top to bottom and included a test drive. Bill, I'm looking for a clean, well maintained 996. Doesn't have to be perfect but you can tell fairly easily which ones have been abused/neglected and which ones have been looked after by an enthusiast.
Here Bill, let me give you my Mastercard..... I may have actually found the right car, we'll see.
Just for ****z n giggles, my ideal car would be a manual trans, LSD, black interior, 3 spoke steering wheel, Carrera II's or Sport Classics, in Guard's Red, Black or Arctic Silver, Fister exhaust, a ton of receipts & detailed history. $20K.
Couldn't give 2 hoots about the stereo, window tint, decals/stripes etc.
Go!!!
at time the seller was asking 25k for it. Only reason we went to look at it was because of the low miles and it was guards red. Hard to find guards red 996. The seller won't budge on price. So it was easy to walk away. I suspect this guy brought it and found out something wrong and is now trying to off load it for 20k
I was thinking the same thing. I don't want to out the guy as he seemed like a genuinely nice guy. Let's just say it's not too hard to find a low mile 99 Guard's Red 996 up for sale on the interwebs.
the car is in very good condition and all original. Just didn't have the power. Something is definitely wrong with it. We didn't get a chance to do a PPI but that oil pressure and lost of power was enough to scare us away
Yep, the car really was immaculate, almost showroom floor new. He was all for me getting a PPI done. I'm not 100% sure he even knows it may have issues and I don't have the heart to tell him.
it may be worth the inspection, so he knows and may be negotiable on price? I read on other forums this may be a oil spring valve, or possibly it may need the oil cleaned out. I once knew a guy that had low oil pressure on his 996 and it turned out his oil filter was crushed. Changed out new oil and filter and it fixed the problem. If he is a stand up guy, maybe you are right and he doesn't know
Would the oil filter spring cause the engine to be down on power though? The gauge, absolutely. I don't want to say anything as I truthfully don't know what the issue is. I'm not a mechanic and I'd be afraid of giving him bad advice/opinions.
Oil pressure spring (not sure what an oil filter spring is) while it can account for lower than normal oil pressure if the spring is hanging up or broken it probably won't affect engine power unless the DME is limiting engine output due to less than acceptable low oil pressure, but I think this would have a warning/error message displayed.
If the engine is truly down on power and with the oil pressure gage indicating based on my experience low oil pressure when it should be quite a bit higher why bother trying to trouble shoot/diagnose this?
Look for another car.
Oil
PUMP
piston +spring upgrade(997)
But that will not fix the performance deficiency !
This??
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...modelCode1=911
or
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...modelCode1=911
FYI, I believe only the 99's had the LSD available, and my understanding is that by this point it's probably dead anyway and will need to be rebuilt or replaced. Also, cars with LSD will have traction control (TC) instead of PSM. That's how my car is optioned.
For the Carerra II wheels, they are pretty easy to find used, usually for $1k or less. IMHO, they are the best factory wheel for the 996.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
