1484 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHChunks slow build... very slow.
Reported or suspected cause
block
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause · Original poster
The LN sleeve had play but not because of the sleeve being machined incorrectly, it was the block.
Leading evidence: 'block' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'block' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust base' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause · Original poster
My childhood best friend had a 1.8T in gray with the two tone interior and it was the car I did my driver�s test in.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause · Original poster
The problem is everyone�s x pipe is around the same price.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause · Original poster
The invasive snake issue is huge down here, along with iguanas and boar.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
I�m still hearing a clunk up front so I�m going to check the jam nut on the endlinks and the spring perch to make sure the spring is set correctly on the perch.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
1,484 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 2 excluded by outcome qualification · 1 adjusted by outcome qualification.
8 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
However, no improvement was had with a GT3 throttle body, competition plenum, Revo software, fvd 200 cell cats and FVD muffler.
So I've gathered my thoughts and I believe I ready to begin working on my 996. I've posted on a couple things I had questions about and you guys have been awesome in answering those questions for me so thank you. First about me, this is going to be a long build simply because I'm out of the country 7 - 8 months out of the year and remain deployable when on "vacation" too. The car is extremely clean and is not a daily driver, has about 53k miles and still has the OEM IMS system. The first thing that'll happen when I get back home in April will be a full service schedule and replace the IMS, my particular indie uses EPS IMS upgrade kits and stocks them. Next items will be the intake side of the engine, brakes all the way around and refresh some of the suspension components. When purchasing the car, a set of OEM GT3 coilovers were included for a price that couldn't be refused and it currently has a RoW M030 on it now. I don't plan on adding the GT3 parts until I get a lift for the front end, Caragraphics sent me an estimate for around 2900 and my buddy sources his kits from Roboruta as he specializes in air suspensions across the entire automotive spectrum. The M030 sits very nicely so I feel I'm not missing anything by swapping right away. I'm following Zbomb, Ryan and Tex Squirrel on their builds for some inspiration and looking forward to what you guys think... good or bad. Pretty excited to get this going, wanted a Porsche after watching Condor Man with my dad... so I'm living a childhood dream.
2021 Upgrade list
:
Intake upgrades:
IPD plenum kit + 997 Airbox(Special Thanks to Jcc0016) *Complete*
Brake upgrades:
Martin's rotor upgrade kit + Sebro drilled OEM style rotors *Complete*
*Stainless lines are previously installed*
Wheel upgrade: *Complete*
OZ Alleggeriata in GT3 sizes
OEM Center caps
Michelin PS2
Exterior upgrades: Pending the duckbill
CSR Carbon duckbill
Maxton GT3 lip *currently have OEM GT3 and GT3RS lips*
DP-Motorsports Carbon GT3RS lip
New windshield and trim.
Remove tint
2022 Upgrade list
:
380mm 997 GT3 6 pistons fronts
350mm 997 Turbo rears
Full suspension rebuild with GT3 coilovers
Caragraphic Air cup kit
996 GT3RS Front bumper
Thanks for what you do.
Sounds like you have a nice base to build on and have some cool stuff planned.
Can’t wait to see the CSR ducktail. Are you on painting it or carbon/clear ?
Thanks brother and I'm looking to paint it while leaving the carbon exposed around the vents. It'll have a weird Outlaw look until it gets painted which is also fine with me.
This will be a fantastic build and love the color - very unique. Between the wheels and the wing it definitely has that GT3 vibe.
The EPS IMS is a great product. I thought my car had the original style LN IMS which I elected to upgrade to the new version. Upon removal we found that it actually had the EPS unit installed. Came out clean and in perfect condition with no play after 55k miles. Have some photos of what it looked like that I can share if you'd like.
That's reassuring, the shop does quite a bit of racing and he specializes in these cars so I'm glad to see there are others that have opted to use the EPS.
Thanks for asking I have no intention of selling the MK2, I have lots of storage space in my garage but if I ever did to move it... you're first in line.
Plus 1 here on the EPS bearing after some fairly diligent research. I just installed it myself last month without any problems, along with a clutch set and other "in there" stuff. I questioned EPS the company and even talked to a "non-car guy" engineer about ball vs roller applications. I know the LN bearings have something of a cult following here, but I quickly ruled them out as an option. Far too expensive for what you get and there have been failures of their ball bearing products that are even explained away as "caused by something else". Didn't want to mess with having to send in my old bearing or any expensive "pre-qualification" (other than my own) either. No doubt the EPS bearing is more expensive than it needs to be too as they've all benefited from the paranoia and any warranties are worthless considering the cost of an engine failure.
Kudos on doing the job yourself. It doesn't seem incredibly hard as long as you have the space, tools and time. I have no problem with the LN bearing as that's what I installed thinking I had the V1 of it but speaking with the shop and examining the EPS unit we were impressed with it and how good it looked. I was a bit confused with the pre-qualification part as I thought it was only required when installing the permanent solution. The retrofit didn't require that and just couldn't be installed as a fix to already failed bearing - I could be wrong there. It seems like with proper care and regular oil changes the EPS can last a long time with no issues.
But don't mean to get the thread off topic. Stoked to see the rest of the build
To be honest, I didn't know there were other options than LN. My buddy said he just liked the idea of more surface contact on the shaft (that's what she said) and he's had zero issues. Think either are perfect for the purpose they're intended to serve but feel a little better knowing other people here have used them as well.
Good looking car. And it will only get better. Good plan and good work. Don't worry about the speed of things.I think I'm the slowest one at getting things done...
Take your time and do it right.
Thank you, already started looking at phase two which will be solely the interior.. I'm watching Ryan's build and hope the Kydex set up works for the panel. Just found out the damn steering wheel I wanted has been discontinued but found some other options which aren't too bad. The crazy part between this build vs my previous major build is the availability of parts. I had parts on my Z that were HKS prototype parts, they sold off all their stock when they closed HKS USA the first time so anything I needed for the Supercharger and brakes were all special order from Japan. I had to wait 14 months for a hood and front bumper and 8 months of those were it sitting in the US waiting to be cleared by customs. With all that said, the 996 parts are available but it's just a matter of how deep you're willing to go in regards to paying for certain things.
I know it's a shot in the dark but does anyone have a lead on some GT3RS carbon side mirrors? I'd be happy with some OEM Porsche Cup Side mirrors if possible.
Update to this thread.
Finally stateside but won't be home until Thursday night and apparently Miami is full of crazy Spring Breakers so wish me luck! Simon from RPM Technik gets back in the office on the 29th so I'll be ordering the wing then. Rims and tires are on the way and might have them powder coated a liquid silver graphite. Only let down is I decided not to use Girodisks for now, the rear rotors are in good condition so I'll just get drilled rotors for the front but at some point I'll be replacing them with slotted units. Martin is a cool dude and he'll be sending his kit within the next couple of days and the intake items will be at my house next week. Need to get the garage situated so I plan on starting the car at the end of the month.
Welcome back brother ! Hope you only run into the kind of spring breakers I would want to run into
Excited to see what you planned for a very nice car.
Ok after a long... long long time away from land... I'm finally at home. Martin's kit arrived over the weekend as well as the headers. Right now I'm waiting for exhaust mani gaskets and studs, I told my Indie that I'd like all the studs replaced when he does the header swap. Safelite is coming on the 3rd to replace the windshield because it's sandblasted to hell! The project will officially start when I leave the car at Limitless Motorsports here in Miami. The rims/tires get here next week! The first real task is paint correction, the car is very very clean but does have some light oxidation and swirls. You can absolutely tell this car wasn't garaged it's whole life and that it was regularly clean via a carwash. It'll be an easy, albeit tedious job which will proceed with:
- Wash and strip all the wax(I don't think there is any but hey... gotta do it)
- Clay bar
- Tape off plastic trim and lights(avoid getting product splattered everywhere)
- Chemical Guys C4
- Chemical Guys P4
- Chemical Guys Carbon Force Ceramic coating
This will roughly take about 4hrs if I don't mess around and get side tracked which is pretty easily done sometimes. Thank god the car is small and void of many edges that trap water, C4 & P4 is marketed to leave very little powder on removal so we'll see. I still use a chamois for drying and use a small blower for seams and gaps to get the water out, it's done in a garage so no rush to get things done. Below you can see the areas, the whole car is this way but it'll be easy.
Here's what Cassie the Carrera looks like in her Slate Gray goodness. The interior is beautiful except for the passenger door handle but it was included in the sale, it'll get fixed eventually because those bastards are absurdly expensive. The patina on the carbon is just amazing to me. The interior will get some Alcantara upgrades in the near future, the combo of the carbon and Alcantara should be nice. Engine bay needs to be cleaned but that's a future Joel problem.
I'm a sucker for those GT3 wheels, car looks really, really good.
The carbon too, just a really nice car... You selling the GT3 wheels ? not like I have the money for them but I do dream of mounting up a set of wets on some GT3 reps painted some stupid color.
Today is a good day. Unfortunately I�ll have to wait for tires because the ones I ordered were for a regular C2... could�ve sworn I had a GT3 selected from the drop down on Tire Rack. I collected wheels for a time during a previous vehicle ownership and I guess you can say I�m a wheel snob. My old TE37�s were absurdly light... these OZ�s are lighter than those were but to be fair the TE37�s were 19x9.5 +12 and 19x10.5 +12. The fit and finish in the OZs are way beyond my expectations to include the Carbon center caps which fit well. Should probably tally the weight savings from the GT3s vs the OZs.
The GT3 Cup lip needed some work as well, had some stains on it that had to be sanded off. The first attempted was mediocre at best so I�ll strip, sand and paint again while paying attention to sanding marks that weren�t sanded smooth. The end goal is to get a DP-Motorosport carbon fiber Cup lip but the OEM cup lip pictured is still in great condition and will look great for the time being.
All in all I�m pretty happy that I have something to tinker on. While the car is in the shop, the garage should be finished with some Porsche decor and some much needed upgrades. Going to plumb in an air hose reel to match the extension cord reel. Ordered a Quick Jack today so it�ll be nice to have to have everything set up.
Looks like they have none in stock so it�ll take 6 weeks... now we wait. On a lighter note, I get the car back on Thursday and ordered the IDP intake plenum kit from Suncoast.
I sold Zbomb the regular GT3 lip so I really want it on there soon.
I really wanted the TE37s and E88s are at almost an God level wheel in my opinion. Believe it or not... I�d love to see Enkei RPF1s in 996 sizes. Honestly the OZs really grew on me after seeing them on the RPM Technik CSR.
Thanks brother. I�m trying to stay focused with finishing an area at a time but the guy accepted my low offer. It is a CZP that was re-wrapped so I believe that to be a big score.
Still waiting for the car and running out of things to do. Applied a ceramic coating to the OZs. When you detail a car, you tend to start noticing imperfections... even on new vehicles. On the other hand you appreciate the fit and finish of things. The chemical guys coating is pretty easy to apply and there is a considerable added shine. They have a very fine metallic flake and it pops a little more after the coating. One cool thing about Oz is they include a tag that has the wheels weight on it... presentation is everything.
Well done! I recently applied 2 coats of Avalon King ceramic coating on my anthracite Apex wheels and they looked great. Hoping to be able to take off most of the brake dust with just the pressure washer.
Did you also apply the coating to the inner barrels? I did mine after mounting tires. I've heard that wheel weights sometimes don't stay on on a coated surface. Something to keep in mind.
That�s awesome and I�ve heard good things about that company and their coating. I do not plan on doing the inner barrels because CG suggests using their coating on smooth surfaces and the barrels are matte. I will wax the barrels though and keep up with the maintenance regimen. For cleaning I have a brush that is long enough for the barrels and big enough to work on the 21� wheels on the Touareg, they�ll work well on the OZs.
The iPhone 12 Pro takes amazing photos.
You can coat matte surfaces it just depends on the coating. I just coated a set of matte black wheels for a customer's Tacoma and if anything it makes them darker, no issues with it. For the barrels, you could use something like Cquartz Dlux which is for metal, plastics, and wheels. You could also just do a test spot with the coating you have and see how it looks.
Update for today. EPS is in, RMS was pretty dry, Flywheel is dead with some light cracking and the IMS was leaking. He said everything else was clean and the car was in very good condition. Wheels go on this Monday!
Sooooo it appears my 996 had the engine replace at some point and it was verified by Porsche. The block in the car now has the latest upgraded OEM option. I�m still replacing it and EPS makes a kit to ream the IMS pocket to remove the old IMS. The lip came out beautifully and FVD hardware kit arrived. Should have the car no later than Wednesday which is perfect because I�ll be in Puerto Rico from the 23rd to the 27th.
That's not a bad thing. I've learned similar with my car but getting some specifics has been tough and largely unsuccessful. Have you reached out to Porsche directly or your local dealer?
Looking forward to seeing this completed!
The car had 3 owners(myself included) over 18yrs so I�m guessing it was part of the engine swap program or it was done under warranty. The odometer is reading 54k miles so assuming the swap was done within the warranty window at 3yrs or 36k miles... the engine could have half the mileage the chassis has(just a wild *** guess... have no metics to prove it). Now with the EPS swap, I feel a little more confident about the car being in good engine health. Once the car is back in my possession, I�ll send off the oil sample and I guess at that point I�ll know more. The owner of the company who rented out the EPS reaming tool asked
To answer your question, the shop called Porsche to find the info on the original block that came with the car.
That makes sense. My X51 motor was replaced at about 25k miles, most likely due to a filed IMS. I may need to talk to my shop and do some more networking to see if I can get some more info out of Porsche.
Why? So he can be enlightened that LN is the only choice out there and everything else stinks, having no actual experience? My EPS roller bearing came out in perfect condition after about 50k miles. Could have very well stayed in. I have yet to hear of any issues using the procedure EPS has developed for closed engines.
Its gonna open up a crap storm of opinion but the issue is with reaming the opening and introducing metal into the oiling system after the oil filter. If anything gets into the system it can be catastrofic.
Hopefully this thread can stay on track and another thread can be formed.
No worries and apparently he�s done several before.
I appreciate it but we�re past that now. I�ll be picking up the car later today. If it goes bad for whatever reason, we�ll have this thread as evidence.
So let me get this straight... You identified that you have a Porsche factory replacement engine with the updated 6305 "M97" large single row bearing. A bearing that has very few reports of failure. Instead, you bore it out the hole with a kit that uses a large bit to grind into the case as shown in their videos. (see below) Is that correct?
You Tube
The great thing about this forum, is that there are more than one way to skin a cat. I have the LN retro Ims. It's worked beautifully.
Be interested to see how Chunk's enhancements work out. Go for it Chunk. Keep us posted.
Thank you and all the planned upgrades for this phase will be completed sans the wing so I�m pretty happy. Hopefully the wing will be ready by the time I leave again in July. The brake upgrade should be pretty easy and a necessity at this point. Next phase will be the suspension refresh and the DP carbon lip. I really really want the RPM Technik center exhaust but we�re almost a $3k and I�d need a rear bumper.
I read back thru the thread and realized you had already green lighted the EPS bearing,then i posted my reply.My apologies,that’s not my style.Continued success with build.
I have to say watching that video, that it's a clever way to extract that later bearing. I guess I'd be worried about cleanliness and that all of those shavings got out. Then again, this hobby won't progress without some risk taking by us and the manufacturers.
Be good to hear if you get any performance enhancement from the plenum. I got the competition plenum and GT3 throttle body years ago. I didn't get any enhancement in the butt meter nor in a dino test. It moved the sweet spot for power up the powerband slightly, which forced me to change my shifting a bit around certain tracks where I had to wind it up a bit to keep in the powerband, but didn't notice any additional power. But it looks great and sounds awesome. Still scratching my head as to if I should have used the money for an extra set of brake pads instead.
Don't know if there is a secret to getting more performance from the plenum/throttle body. Specific software, exhaust system, don't know. Maybe one of the tech experts can comment.
I was and still am running Revo software and FVD 200 cats and muffler. Maybe I need to put a racing stripe on the car and it will all come together with 10 extra HP? 🤪
One of the guys with a 40th anniversary car fitted the IPD plenum and provided some feedback and data that I thought y'all might find useful...*copied from our FB group"
"just finished fitting an IPD plenum to Tonto, my anniversary #636, need to get it dyno'd but seat of the pants dyno says it has noticeable increased mid range grunt, most noticeable in 6th on the motorway where it just picks up so fast in 6th, at speeds
, it has made a noticeable improvement so v happy indeed, i decided to pull the trigger as this upgrade would, i feel compliment the X51 engine package, in fact the IPD website says we don't need the GT3 throttle body to make the most of the upgrade, whereas lesser 996's do."
"when I contacted IPD before buying mine they told me they used a X51 car to develop the plenum and the same one is sold for the non X51 cars. The part numbers are different so they can track sales."
"I dyno’d mine and then fitted the IPD Plenum while the car was still strapped down to the roller. Went from 347.7 bhp to 356.5 peak."
So it sounds like there are some gains to be had for sure and the benefits might be most visible with a GT3 throttle body on your car. I suppose this is because of the intake. I have some photos of the inside of an X51 intake after removing mine for UAOS install if anyone wants to see... And heck the IPD looks fantastic in there and I'd be damned if I never modified my car for aesthetics
Probably looks even better with an all aluminium manifolds!
plpete,
Good feedback on the X51. Question is how do you get more out of the non X51. I wish I had a copy of the dyno that was done on my car, but I don't. However, no improvement was had with a GT3 throttle body, competition plenum, Revo software, fvd 200 cell cats and FVD muffler.
Someone has to have a secret to what exhaust and software set-up is needed to get more power?
as a side note, I did get improvement from the Revo software with more throttle response, and more midrange pull from the FVD exhaust. Both of which were put on the car quite a few years before the TB/PL.
Full disclosure; I am just a 2002 996 C2 owner for 19 years that is not in the car industry. Instead, I am ust looking for the optimal set-up.
That's a good question that I unfortunately don't have an answer to. Could it be down to the manifolds? Maybe. Is there enough difference in how the regular flows vs X51? Would swapping those in make enough of a difference or are there other things at play? Possibly.
IPD does post dyno graphs on their site but it's noted that it was on a car with fairly low mileage of 27,000mi so I don't know if that would affect numbers vs on a car with say 80,000mi. As we just saw, their graph is showing an increase of 24hp vs 9hp from the graph above. One could contact them to find out more and see if anything else was done to the car or if it was just the plenum and not a single thing more.
Appreciate the response.
What's funny is that if you add up all of the potential gains that are advertised for bolt on parts such as software, intakes, exhaust systems, etc., we would all be running 360 HP in our cars. But we're not. I'll even take just 10 HP which I really doubt that it exists.
Unless someone has the secret sauce for a normally aspirated non-X51 engine, looks like the only solution to truly enhance the output is to rebuild. Obviously, making it lighter will help as well. This is not a knock on the car. I love it and would buy it all over again. It's me waking up this morning thinking about track season and looking for a couple of seconds where I can find them.
You got it my man! IPD does mention that the car does require some driving for proper ECU adaptation post install so perhaps those numbers can be reached or get closed to, provided that your car is in solid shape over all. For me at least, and perhaps others, part of this game is not so much the HP chasing game but more so the process of modifying the cars and enjoying them as they were intended....which is why I'm looking forward to seeing Chuck's build take shape as it seems to be hitting all the right marks mechanically and aesthetically.
In all honesty I'm not expecting much if anything at all performance wise with the mods planned or currently installing to include the plenum... it's just going to sound nice. The plenum coupled with the headers would probably net something like 5-7hp from what I understand so it's not anything that I could discern. Didn't even think of the power band when adding these things so thanks for that insight.
the sound is awesome. The only thing I haven't done to the car besides rebuilding the engine is adding a set of headers. At the time when I did the exhaust, it wasn't recommended. That was 14 or so years ago. There was no plenum nor throttle body upgrades being done. Things may have changed and the header may be the ticket. I'll explore with the plenum folks as well as FVD. Just looking for any advantage with a second or two on the track that I can find. Looking forward to hearing what you find.
Love when packages arrived. Found a mint set of leather kick panel trim on eBay... they�re freaking perfect and smell amazing. The ones on the car are stained so these are a fantastic upgrade.
Got the car today and let me tell you... feels like a different car. The tire upgrade alone changed the ride and I�m supremely happy with everything else. I�ll be installing the IPD, 997.1 airbox and Cup Car lip next week after my trip followed by paint correction which will include the ceramic coating. Took some quick pics.
Thanks brother!
Thank you!
Naturally I took the Turnpike home to stretch her legs and there�s a huge difference in ride quality. I secretly kinda regretted getting the car after taking a long trip to central FL because I contributed the drive characteristics to the rear engine/RWD. Up to this point I�ve owned everything other than a midship so I wasn�t sure if I�d like it moving forward but those doubts were put to rest.
The tires on the GT3 wheels were trashed and even dry rotting. The shop checked the wheels and they�re straight which makes me believe the tires were really that bad. There�s a chance I can make several local Porsche meets which will be the first time in about 15yrs.
It�s just a fancy way of detailing with attention to removing swirls and oxidation. You can use ceramic coating instead of wax as they do the same thing but the ceramic coating is more durable. I use the coating to seal polish work and a layer of wax.
Paint correction is almost a must if you want to apply any type of true ceramic coating as it will chemically bond to the paint and cover up and swirls or defects in the paint. Wax is an organic product and doesn't nearly last as long while a ceramic coating, if cared for property can last 3+ years. I will say though, that good wax does produce a very nice and warm natural glow to the paint.
Car looks fantastic and looking forward to seeing it pop even more after all the detailing. I'll be doing this myself soon on GT Silver paint.
That is a better explanation. Chemical Guys recommends you layer whatever final coat you chose with the Ceramic Coating to �seal� the finish. The car is pretty much complete paint wise.
Had some extra time today and got tired of staring at boxes of parts for the car so I installed the IDP plenum and paired it with the 997.1 air box. Looks nice, sounds like a freaking symphony with the Fisters. Install was easy but I did scrape my knuckles... I�ll live.
There is definitely a midrange increase and you can feel smoother power all the way to redline. The car has a new clutch so I couldn�t drive too aggressively but it def made a difference for daily driving. Kinda wished I dyno�d the car before the update.
Update for 5/11 -
Finally ordered the RPM Technik Ducktail and opted for the EVO vented model instead of the regular non vented model. RPM doesn't accept CC purchases so you'll need to do it via wire and since this was my first International wire... I had to call my bank to get it completed and would explain why the hell I couldn't do it via the app or online. On top of ordering a sweet ducktail, I also learned the international wire process so it was a win win. The car is currently back in the shop due to a very slow oil leak and it can only be a RMS or the IMS cover seal, while down there cleaning up, the shop will also install the headers as well. Safelite installed the glass and let me tell you guys... it's like driving a new car. Once the car is back in my possession this week, I'll get the brakes done and phase 1 will be complete for this year. Next big thing is the detailing stuff which I'll make sure to take photos and provide info for those who want it.
I am pumped up for you to get that decklid man ! major props for going through with it... it’s a lot of money - totally think it will be worth it though.
I expect 1 million pictures upon its arrival.
Thank you brother and yes tons of pics. A friend of mine does a lot of professional shoots so I�m hoping get some things done, especially rolling photos but I�ll be leaving again around 1JUL and not expected to return until mid NOV. Hopefully it�ll happen around that point.
Just sold some ETH crypto and decided to get another exterior upgrade in the form of a carbon fiber DP-Motorsports Cup lip. Pretty excited to get this particular item because they�re so uncommon.
Well it appears that my budget was thrown out the window. I got lucky in our marketplace and snatched up a Porsche Tequipment Roll bar. It�ll be a cool little road trip to Marietta GA and good thing my TDI Touareg gets 700mi to the tank because ATL is feeling the effects of a fuel crunch. Went ahead and contacted Suncoast about the mounting kit, they�re working it as we speak so those parts should be available soon. It�s currently white in color and it�ll be resprayed in something a tad different. I�m thinking either a Silvery Gray or Guards Red.
Now that the roll bar is purchased, I�ve begun my search for seats. My father has a 2020 Nismo 370Z that comes with Recaro Sportsers and those are the absolute smallest seat I can fit in. After initially looking at Recaros, I�ve turned my attention to Brides. Not only is their logo one is the weirdest/coolest in that genre of racing seats but you just don�t see them very often. For as much as I�d want the look of a racing seat, I�m getting something a tad more comfortable for my lower half. After playing soccer and riding bike my whole life, my legs are abnormally large for a 5�9� dude in addition to gaining 30lbs due to a hernia issue. Bride makes a seat called the Euroster II in a faux suede which have caught my eye. They�re reclinable but designed for comfort and long rides. Biggest selling point is the medium height lower seat bolster and that they�re available in black with gray script, I�m not a monster so the gradient Bride look is just too JDM for the 911. I�d like to be different but not like obnoxious about it.
I wonder who worked the JGTC 964? There has been some really cool 911 race cars that have raced on various Japanese circuits, makes you wonder if those companies ever developed anything for them.
Well, I drove up to Marietta GA to pick up the 996 Tequipment cage from EPG Atlanta and let me tell you... great freaking score on the part. Brian was a very cool dude, car lover and a sneaker head so we had a lot to chat about. Got to see his 997 and pics don�t do it justice.
The shop has a very cool vibe to it, glad I was able to chat with a fellow enthusiast about all things Porsche and other random topics. Made it in 10hrs from Miami all while getting 30mpg at 80mph in my TDI Touareg.
I�ll be back in Miami Monday morning and will be dropping the cage off at a local body shop and have it painted. It�ll more than likely be a slivery gray in color, have a nice contrast in the interior. The car is all done, Limitless went ahead and installed the headers so a sound clip is due, can�t wait to get the car back.
Best graphic for 996 IMO. Based on Gt3 Script. I have been thinking about this same style, only with Targa script in place of Carrera. That blue on white is classic.
Ha! Well most of my friends and family aren�t car people so they don�t particularly care for the car. The guy who bought the 997 owned a 350Z when they came out, the 911 was the benchmark for the 350z during its creation.
Going to leave to Disney tomorrow but wanted to see how much of a difference the polish would make. Here�s a comparison between a unpolished and polished rear using Chemical Guys P4 and C4.
Hey Chunk, I'm not a big fan of lobster claw (fork) wheels, but man I love those in black with the brushed rims on your buddy's silver 997. I am leaning towards a set of Fuch type black with the brushed (chrome?) rims on my silver 996. Have fun at Disney.
Thanks brother and what I did was use a two step polish system which is made for light oxidation and scratches. Chemical guys has a lot of stuff on their site... some things are gimmicky but the one thing I can say is their core items are fantastic. There aren�t any deep scratches or heavy oxidation that requires a traditional method of polishing(I�d actually have to measure paint if I used this procedure) so a DA(Random Orbital) works best.
I used C4 with an Orange pad and P4 with a white pad. They advertise That these products are powder free and so far it�s been accurate. Prep was a wash to remove any wax that was on the paint and then followed up with a light clay bar. Last will be synthetic wax and a ceramic coat.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing that. I can definitely agree that they do have a lot of products and it can become a blur but some stuff is really solid. I've been enjoying their VLR on tires and all plastics. I'll need to do mine soon or as soon the pollen season is gone here. My plan is to wash, iron remover, clay bar for prep and I want to give Koch Chemie 2 step process a try with their compound and polish. Heard great things and also low to no dusting. Great to hear the same about C4 and P4. I'm sure you'll be doing this but ceramic coat and then top with the wax? Not the other way around. With my process I'll just apply the ceramic coating and during washes I use the Turtle Wax Seal & Shine as a drying agent. That stuff is amazing and lasts way longer than Bead Maker, which I also like. It's sort of like protection on top of the protection - yeah I'm mad
but clean cars drive better!
Now that you mention it, I�m going to check again because they made it seem like their ceramic system seals whatever is underneath but they�ve also said you can apply Hydroslick on top of the Carbon Force for added shine. I use their ceramic interior quick detailer which is a must if you have kids touching ****.
Oddly enough I try to avoid dressing certain things but their VLR is fantastic. I use Scrubbing Bubbles for tires... it know it sounds crazy but it works well because I don�t like shiny tires and loathe overspray. I�m going to look up the stuff you�ve mentioned because I like know what�s out there.
Hopefully after I get the brakes done this week. Need to set up my quick jack and get that done after the paint correction. Left the cage with my bodyshop guy and it should be completed next week... went with Guards Red.
I was looking to lower the seat height in my GT350 and was looking at the Recaro Sportster Cross CS, I like the Cross more than the straight CS as the seat bolsters are more like a stock Porsche seat (Yes, I am trying to get my Cayman seating position in a GT350 LOL!). Just not sure how the Recaro retrofit would go and also they have a side airbag option, but not sure how plug in play that is.
Maybe this is the snob in me but the Bride look too aftermarket (read: rice rocket). I think Recaro in leather or vinyl look proper in most cars or if you want something nicer, Carbone's version of pole position.
I get you but also respectfully disagree. I�d prefer factory GT3 Recaros but like weird things so Brides work for me, at least I�ll get true Japanese ones and not Taiwanese made ones.
I look forward to seeing them in the car. It wouldn't be the first time where I wasn't crazy about a particular part but seeing it installed and part of the overall "system", for lack of a better word, I ended up changing my mind.
I spent some time looking at other options last night, really liked the Recaro ProFi XL and noticed you can get some amazing leather coverings in pretty much anything color and stitch configuration you can think of. I�m looking at seats for next year so we�re still a way off.
Really got most of the polishing done today and then watched some Chemical Guys vids regarding the carbon force. You�re 100% right about adding wax on top of the ceramic coating and they also recommend multiple layers of Carbon Force for better protection. I already use HydroSlick and use the ceramic wash. The hood was a little rough vs all the other panels so I used an orange pad and V32. It cleaned up the paint nicely, the last polish would be P4 and then the Ceramic Carbon Force. I�ll try two coats of Carbon Force and see what a coat of HydroSlick looks like.
Awesome job! Paint is looking primo already and will make it super easy to clean. It's cool too see how soap behaves on a coated surface. I did 2 coats on my wheels and now I get them 80% clean with just the pressure washer. Are you still getting the ducktail?
I�m almost done with the whole car and then I�ll be getting the Carbon Force done tomorrow. Think I�ll finally set up the QuickJack and get the wheel wells and fender liners cleaned up. Yup I ordered the Ducktail a week or so ago and also ordered the Dp-Motorsports carbon fiber cup lip as well.
Officially paid for the DP Lip yesterday so the clock starts now, they should it could take up to 12weeks which is fine. They have a weird way of checking out, you check out and then they�ll send you an invoice... then you pay via PayPal.
I�m getting some trouble codes after the header install but it only is an issue on cold start, after that it runs well. My Indie suggested getting O2 spacers and went with a set of Soul racing spacers provided by Flat6. Cage is getting painted Guards Red and should be available in a couple weeks... in the meantime I�m doing the brake upgrade, removing/replacing tints and removing the rear seats in preparation for the cage install. Also got a suede GT3 shift **** to go with the steering wheel and cage. Project is moving along nicely.
Car looks top notch! Shots 1, 2 and 6 are my favorite. You should also take some of the rear quarter panel side. Our cars look fantastic from that angle and your will show nicely with the wing.
Thanks very much, can't wait to get the cage in and now I need to get the tints replaced. Going with 3M nano ceramic tints in a really really light shade.
Got the old tints replaced with 3M Nano Ceramic �tints�, I�m using the quotes because I opted for the clear model. The cage is prepped and will be getting painted this week.
Just came across your build thread. Looks amazing! So many questions�I�m weeks behind the conversion.
What weight for wheel/tire (my three piece forged are currently mounted on tires) is normal or lightweight? Thinking of having mine dissembled, refinished and resealed but wondering if should just purchase new instead.
the leather sills from eBay: were they from a wreck or is there a company that retrims?
Airbox: mine of course is different (K&N and LA3 engine). I�m aware that the stock 996 has better flow than the aftermarket K&N but of course that�s not an option for me. My intake temperatures are higher than I�d like (Swapped Porsche guys say 20 degrees higher than ambient is normal). It appears that the stock has a gasketed connection to external air through a port on the deck lid. How does Porsche avoid rainwater getting into the airbox?
Lastly, update on the seats?
Great thread!
I'd love to see how the Brides work out. I have a savannah beige interior and my driver's seat is a little discolored and seems a tad frail.
Really would like to go with these. Please let me know any feedback if you go that route. I have a deep JDM past so they hit a sweet spot :P
I haven�t weighed the wheels but the OZs are probably some of the lightest wheels available for our cars and TireRack has the fronts listed at 18.9lbs and the rears are 21lbs. What wheels do you have? I�ve been putting some monies away for a set of E88s or I�ll paint the OZs red� extreme ends or the wheel spectrum but you get the idea.
The sills look to be from a wrecked car and in perfect condition. I haven�t really looked at the gasket or how it drains water but I�ll check when I get back home. Lately, I�m deploying for work on the 30th and will be gone for 4-5 months so that�s going to be next year. The next updates will be on the brakes, the RPM Technik Ducktail and DP-Motorsport carbon lip will be at the end of the year as well.
Those are the exact seats I�m looking at and I really like Bride seats. The interesting thing is the nicer seats are made in Japan while the others are made in other Asian countries. The Edirb customs seats(Bride spelled backwards) is their custom shop� very nice. I�m a bigger/chubbier dude with larger than normal legs so I�m limited on certain seats. Think those Eurosters check all the boxes.
My wheels are a brand called �Racing Dynamics� and it�s their S4 model. They were on the car when I bought it, probably out of business, almost no information on the web. The finish is flaking off so, cosmetically, I�d like to redo them ($600) but the shop says it would be as high as $1400 if he�s got to reseal them so he recommends shopping around to make sure that�s the direction I want to go.
RD S4 as is on car now
Found this photo on web painted �ghost pearl blue�
I see, they look great btw and I might be putting my OZs for sale. I found a front set of CCW C14 Corsas and could complete the set for less than 2200.00.
Ha! I currently have three sets of wheels & tires for this car: it came w two sets, one of which I�ve already had redone and I bought some Forgestar F14 sized for a TT/C4S that are just a bit too wide fir a NB.
I am curious to know the total weight of the wheel/tire on your OZ front/rears.
how are the Bride seats?
That�s pretty cool that your car came with 2 sets and you can make the WB wheels fit but it�ll be some work. I�ll weigh the whole set up when I get a chance and post those figures. As far as the Brides go, I�m looking to buy them by the beginning of next year because I�m leaving out of the country for 4 months here in a couple weeks.
Picked up the C14 Corsairs from a local seller and was very pleased with how they looked. They�re matte black and 18x9+50, reached out to CCW and I can order the rears which I�ll be doing mid way through September or early Oct. The plan is to go all red!!
Welp after a couple hours of looking at random hoses and such, my indie found what I couldn�t and it was causing the codes� a loose hose clamp with a worn screw. Air was getting through said clamp and causing the fault. After installing a new clamp, he was nice enough to install the suede steering wheel.
I'm chasing an intermittent code (minor leak somewhere in EVAP) so I know your pain! Glad you got it resolved. The interior is looking fantastic! Is that an OEM GT3 shifter/boot combo? I'm looking at upgrading my interior with a Momo Mod 7 in alcantara at some point. I'm still undecided on the shifter but want it in alcantara as well. I like the OEM look but just don't find it that comfortable. Considering a round shift ****, something like OEM 997 or BFI one.
Any plans for the pedals?
I get you and had I not found that steering wheel set up on the cheap� I would�ve gone with a Personal Grinta in the same colors.
He was local and didn�t want to ship and let them go for 350.09� it�s better to be lucky than good.
Man that reminded me of my Lexus days trying to chase a vacuum leak on a 2J� long days. I love the Momo set up but got a smoking deal on the steering wheel which came with the leather airbag cover. I looked at the BFI ***** and thought they looked great, just wanted the GT3 look which is why chose the OEM replacement. Not sure on the pedals, I�m a sneaker head and wear all types of shoes and the OEM rubber units feel great.
Oddly enough I have a very simple watch collection. I got rid of all my higher end pieces with the exception of a Oris Titan which in bigger picture watch brand a entry level professional watch. I do have a lot of random Seikos which are great watches. There�s only one or two high end watches that I�d enjoy and they�re 44.5mm Rolex DSSD and a IWC Big Pilot with a red sweeping hand which is vintage now. I have a Marine Master 300m on my watch radar and a Orfina Milirary(Og Porsche Design).
I like the Oris as well as what's on your hit list. Advertisers have figured out the connection between cars, guns and watches. Seems that there is a group of folks like us that appreciate the mechanical engineering aspect of all three categories. You may need to consider an IWC Portuguese to add a chronograph to time your laps the old fashioned way.
I’d get into watches if I could stop spending all my disposable income on cars and guns... I think you hit the nail on the head though Glenn - for those into elegant and interesting mechanical design - they suit each other very well.
For real.
I get you, I love exposed backs or heart beat watches� I can stare that them all day. Guns are outrageous right now so cars are my go to.
I really really wanted a Panerai PAM112!
Got around to installing Martin�s front brake upgrade since it needed brakes badly. Luckily all the bolts came out without snapping and I got to really look at the system which is nice. The install was very straightforward and Martin�s kit is of high quality so I�d recommend it to anyone who wants to upgrade for less than you might think. I ended up using OEM pads and Sebro rotors, should probably get all the clips and shims after inspecting everything but it was still serviceable. The weather in Miami has been absolutely terrible which is delaying a good wash and better pics of the set up.
For those who are curious about a Quickjack� go get one. It set up in 45mins and my 7000SLX fit under the 996 perfectly. For reference, I used tall blocks and my particular car has a M030 suspension, it fit without any issues at all.
I know, they're not even close. It was a given to me by an Apple investor which was very kind. Don't know that I would purchase one myself. I work with my hands all day so it gets in the way. Still seems weird answering the phone and talking through my watch.
Yeah I get you, I got mine from HomeDepot.
I built it off of a Vietnam era parts kit, came out nice. My step dad served as a Sapper towards the end of the war and was giddy looking at it.
It's a half cage bolt-in with X brace & harness bar. There are no logos on it but the wheel refinisher (big 911 guy) said it was a DAS Sport (
https://www.vividracing.com/das-spor...1-p-44081.html
) and that definitely looks like it. So my car has that cage and fixed-back Corbeaus and.... factory rear seats. Kinda seems like I don't need the rear seats. And am looking for a more comfortable option to the Corbeaus.
Yeah you speak the truth! Man i missed an opportunity to get an AI� I lust over those things. I sold a R700 JAE with a Ziess Conquest a couple years ago and only have one �long range� rifle which is a Colt LE901 AR10 type. It has a Elcan Specter DR on it and run a Knights QDC 762 which is pretty solid as far as shift is concerned. I do have a weirdo R700 CP SBR that you might like. The Elcan has a BDC up to 700yards and I�m pretty sure that rifle can reach that distance with dinner plate groupings, the poor man�s Q mini fix is surprisingly accurate at .75-1MOA at 100yrds.
My Crown Jewels are my H&K P7 9mm trio and a AC556 Transferable Machine Gun.
Oooh ok, looks pretty sweet. I�m removing the rear seats and just received the rear seatbelt cover from Suncoast so hopefully I can try to install the cage on Monday night. What type of seat are you considering? Fixed or reclinable?
I've got fixed Corbeaus FX1 Pro seats w 6-point harnesses right now. Those and the half cage make the rear seats useless. The rear would be pretty tight for my 12 yo, but I wouldn't mind being able to shove stuff back there. If the FX1 were more comfortable, I'd probably leave them or just have them retrimmed in leather but there's pretty much no padding or lumbar (removed?). This car will be 99% street use so I'm interested in reclining (well, at least tilt-forward as there will be no reclining with the harness bar). I'd even be ok with keeping the FX1 for the driver (having an upholster add padding and retrimto match ) a tilting passenger seat. The plan is for this car to see about 10k miles/year when I drive w/out family. It's a bit rough for that now, although I can get in/out of the harness pretty quickly at this point.
So if I get new ones, they would definitely be reclining (or at least tiltable) and be able accommodate the harness. I would prefer leather but FlyFishNick really likes his SickSpeed pleather seats. Gathering information at this point. Going to install new wheel/shift boot & ****/console/ebrake this week.
Yeah...
I have GT3 seats and a rollbar. No back seat. Because I track the car, I didn't want anything that reclined for safety reasons. If you aren't planning on tracking it, then you probably don't need racing seats or a rollbar. You may just need stock seats and a removable harness bar from Brey Krause. You can run a 4 point harness with stock seats using this set up. Did it for a few years before I found grey leather GT3 seats. Then I went all the way with a Heigo roll bar, racing harnesses, etc. Because it was very easy to remove the brey krause harness bar after a track event, and use the rear seats, it was recommended to go with the Heigo roll cage if I ever wanted to remove the center bars and use the back. Never did. Mainly because I couldn't get around the GT3 seats. Love the seats and set-up and have figured out how to store things in the back area if needed. A big plus is that if you remove the rear seats, you save quite a bit of weight. As a side note, while the GT3 seats don't recline, you can use Velcro pads that come with the seat to adjust the lumbar and recline a little. I even bought extra pads so I have 4 per seat to use on longer drives. Works very well.
Jesus H with the gun **** J.... I'm coming to visit and leaving all my neutered stuff at home
The Elcan is a tank...if the gun you're running it with ever runs dry, you can always just bludgeon that bad guy to the ground with it, may even be a worse way to go than the ventilation.
They dislike coming down to Miami and they�re in their early 70�s so� they don�t particularly care to get in and out of the 911 which is fine because the VW is a TDI and needs it more.
Very much appreciate it. Was able to get to the range this weekend with my Bro n Law and his best friend. His friend had never shot anything suppressed and fell in love with a Ruger MKIV + Rugged Oculus set up.
Thanks brother! Took some pics in an IKEA like a weirdo.
I'm not sure what you're talking about....covered parking garages make for primo photo locations
If you want to feel less weird, I've found medical office building parking garages to be fairly empty most weekends ha! Car is looking clean - as always
I gotta agree, looks good. However, if you would have taken pictures in the IKEA garage with your car next to a bedroom set, that would have been a little weird...
We made some progress today. I tried facing the legs towards the dash and standing it up from the rear and couldn�t get it soooooo I just removed the auto dimming rear view mirror. I saw some posts of turning the assembly counter clockwise about 90 degrees which isn�t the case. Started by removing the trim on the mirror, unplugging the cable with the assistance of a flathead screw driver. Once that was out of the way, grabbed a punch and GENTLY tapped the base down and it came out after 4 light taps. After that, the cage swung upwards easily. Just needed to remove the seatbelt height adjustment clip and cover before it went all the way back in place.
Took advantage of the fact the seats were out to get some cleaning done. First I started by using a 20:1 solution of Chemical guys Fabric clean in a Tornador pneumatic cleaner which is just a fancy name for a air driven sprayer.
Big reason why I use this tool is because it uses a lot less material and you get a nice controllable 3� round application trail. An added benefit is it also forces dirt up and out of the pile which is beneficial later when you brush and then vacuum. Since you�re using less material and it�s air assisted, you�ll notice that the solution will dry more quickly which in my case was about 1hr. Philooo kept this car in amazing condition so the whole carpet treatment took about 45mins and these steps taken were:
- Light vacuum
- Application of Fabric Clean with Tornador tool
- Brush carpet and try to push the dirt to a corner so it�s in one place when you vacuum(saves time).
- Look for stains or very wet spots and blot with a towel
- Let dry
- Brush again and vacuum the remaining dirt.
Since I took the rear seats out, I opted for Porsche�s seat belt panel cover from Suncoast. It was a special order part and took about a week to get to my house.
Should have finished pics later tonight. Need to finish packing and cleaning up around the house. All that�s left is to convert the bolts to studs and secure the cage. I�m looking for torque specs now.
Cage is in along with the interior. Ended up not converting the bolts to a stud because everything lined up pretty easily. Even though I chased the seatbelt holes with a tap and blew it out with compressed air, I did get a little resistance 3/4 of the way so I�m 95% sure I didn�t cross thread anything. If anyone is reading this and considering installing a Tequipment cage� removing the rear view auto dimming mirror takes about 15mins and I�d strongly recommend you do so. I did have to manhandle the front legs to align the spacer but didn�t tighten the bolts all the way down until I was able to get all 4 bolts started. Only nicked the cage in one spot and it�s not visible with the seat in� mainly because the damned seat caused the nick. All in all the process was smooth and Philooo(previous owner) reached out with some helpful insight. Did a ton of searching and googling for specific items and I�m thankful I found everything I needed so Thank You to the Pcar family for your old posts.
The car rides amazingly well with the cage installed. I had a Kirk Racing cage in my Z and though it made it stiff, the car felt like a jittery mess without additional bracing on other places. In this case, it feels like the cage just bolsters a firm ride. There is definitely a better feel that I wasn�t anticipating and was an absolute pleasant surprise. Last thing the that�ll be installed is a grossly overpriced rear seat delete hardware kit but I just feel the car looks incomplete without so it�ll drive me nuts knowing something like that is available and I�ll have to get it. I�ll be leaving tomorrow and snapped some photos at a Marina down the street, I was greeted by some Trash Pandas as they were perplexed to what the hell I was doing.
Cage and interior looks phenomenal. Now you got me thinking about having my black cage repainted something more interesting. Every time I read a post on RL it costs me money.
By the time you're back I should have my own 3d printed rear seat delete kit completed. Taking longer than expected to get my new resin printer dialed in.
What would your kit consist of? I already ordered the OEM kit but would love to see what you�re cooking up.
I�ve always loved the contrast, my Z had a HKS purple cage and TE37s. Doing a poor mans GT3RS Gray and Red livery with red wheels so the red cage was a natural thought for me.
Fyi all porsche did was cover the regular plastoc seatbelt piece with leather. Also on the side piece they just didnt cut the hole for the bolt. I have the pieces from the gt3.
The pieces you're holding and deletes for the posts that lock the rear seat backs. Thinking that kit at a quarter of the total Suncoast price makes it worth my while.
For that price I�ll buy one for a spare.
Ok sweet thanks for the info. I�ve never actually sat on or have been close to really look at a 996 GT3 so this is all new to me.
Quick update, I started a thread a while back about other brake options. Martin's kit is worth the money and a solid investment but my calipers were pretty beat up so it was a bandaid since I really needed front brakes. Instagram is a wild place and sometimes you can sift through the butt models and find some good people that aren't on here in regards to the Pcar world. Long story short I found someone who makes a bracket to mount a 6 piston GT caliper onto a C2 without the GT carrier/uprights. It'll use GT4 380mm rotors and the parts list is included with the brackets. This will be a long term project but figured I'd put it up here.
These spacers are identical in function to mountain bike brakes - change from 2 piston to 4 piston calipers and use of spacers to change from 160 → 180 → 203mm discs. I'd wager these will work great.
Sounds like you have a winner.
I am loving the innovation we are seeing with new solutions coming to the market for our cars.
Looks like the old providers need to innovate and up their game. Competition is a good thing!
Pretty excited for it and going to start piecing the kit together.
I was thinking the same thing and the person who made them has a 996.2 GT3 in Germany.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...r-fitment.html
According to that thread those are the applicable numbers with the XXX.XXX.XXX.90 being the weirdo option.
On that note, the same person told me that the Turbo Big Red rear set up will bolt up to my C2 which will complete the set up. I still have a couple things I'd like to finish and as I get the parts I'll update the thread but maybe someone who's reading might want more info. Still looking for a set of Brides BUT I did stumble across a set of JDM Bride Vorgas in black with a carbon shell, unfortunately they haven't been made for some time so they're going to be a used set. There's a dude on IG that lives in Thailand that imports JDM seats, so far my friends have had 100% service from him and he actually undervalues the condition sometimes.
Those are the last ones he sold for $3500 and he recently sold a set of red carbons. Oddly enough he�s also a P car driver and drives a black on black 987.
The brackets arrived to my buddy�s shop and no begins the arduous process of piecing the kit together. For now I�ll keep the OZs on the car and shelve the CCW C14 project until next year so I can focus on redoing the suspension and begin cleaning up the fender area as well as the engine compartment. Some of the frunk trim pieces look a little weathered so that�ll have to be addressed at some point. Side note, have you guys ever wondered what a Tropical Storm looks like at sea?
That massive cloud accumulation is TS Fred� we sailed around it.
Went over the 380mm Rotor 6 Piston GT3/RS set up and this is what it would cost if you purchased everything brand new from ECS with the exception of the rotors, I got that price off of their site.
- Cayman GT4 Giro Disks: 1600.00
- Rotor screws 4x: 3.96
- 997.1 GT3/RS calipers 2x: 2421.66
- 997.2 GT3 OEM pads: 664.56
- 997.2 GT3 OEM pad silencer inserts 12x: 244.32
- 997.2 GT3 pad bracket set 2x: 139.22
- Brembo bleeder screws 4x: 94.68
- Brembo bleeder screw cap 4x: 12.04
- 997.2 Sebro brake wear sensor 2x: 17.62
- 997.2 GT3RS Caliper bolts to adapter 4x: 88.16
- 997.2 GT3RS Caliper bolts to wheel carrier 4x: 64.64
- 997.2 GT3RS brake lines 2x: 86.54
Grand total: 5437.40 + shipping and Fluid
You can get that number down to about 3500.00 with OEM style rotors and used calipers which is a tinge less than a 6 piston kit from Brembo. The price isn't terrible but my calipers are beat to hell(as they should be... because race car) and will eventually need to refresh everything. I should have everything pieced together by next summer since I'll be gone again for about 6 months starting in Jan. The other upgrade would be the rear and probably just go with a set of big reds(996 turbo or C4S) as I was told they'll bolt in to include the ebrake cable. The current set up is fantastic and def does a better job of stopping, more capable than I would ever be on a track but it'll just be better swap everything. Rears will also have a Giro Disk two piece set up.
Be careful a lit of 18" wheels wont fit over the 380mm set up.
im running 996 gt3 uprights with 6 pot, 350mm fronts. It is plenty to stop my piggish 3450lb car(with me in it) from 130 to 40mph and kick in the abs. U dont need any more for sub 400hp and out weight. Honestly any more then 996 turbo brakes r a waste of money, even for track duty.
What rims are you running again? Could you post your wheel/brake set up here if you don't mind? Yeah I totally agree the set up is absurdly overkill but it'll be aesthetically nice to look at. The kit Martin uses a 350mm rotor along with the OEM 4 piston 996 set up... think the OZ's might fit with very little room to spare. This info is more for people who were immediately interested but know I'm curious to see how this will change my wheel choices.
^^ What DE Jeeper said. I'm running stock Turbo 4-pot front & rear with 350mm rotors and good PFC pads and it's plenty to slow my 3686 pound Turbo from 130 -> 40 over and over again. I can get into ABS action with R-comp tires after 20 minutes running on a fast track. Anything more is overkill, though it sure can look nice.
Think I may have commented on brakes before in this thread or in JP's thread a while back. Sorry if it's a repeat. If not, here goes.
Most don't need bigger brakes because they limit their driving to the street or track the car occasionally and don't carry sufficient speed to need them. For those that have seriously tracked their cars, you all remember the moment when your Oem brakes just weren't enough.
But it's tough to deny that a big brake kit on a car looks a he'll of a lot better than a stock Oem set of brakes. So many may spend big money for the upgrade for visual effect. Your call.
However, if you track your car a lot, and have gotten to be very fast, you will eventually look to find ways to make your car faster. One of the quickest ways is to improve your braking power. Why, because more powerful brakes allow you to stay on the gas longer, and then brake later and more aggressive under control as you approach the next turn.
To keep it simple, there are 4 paths you can take depending on your objectives and willingness to spend money that take into consideration braking power and weight savings. Keep in the back of your mind with brakes: bigger, lighter, stronger means more expensive.
1. Keep your OEM calipers and get more aggressive rotors and pads. This is the least expensive, will give you more stopping power and may save you a few ounces in un-sprung weight.
2. Do a kit from Martin that will give you the opportunity to run larger rotors with more aggressive pads. Don't know the cost, nor if you get more stopping power, and don't know if you reduce any un-sprung weight.
3. Get a big brake kit from Brembo, Stoptech, Alcon or other manufacturers. Cost will be between $5-7k new or half that if you buy a used one. While it will be expensive for the kit overall, and expensive for replacement rotors and pads, you will not only get a HUGE improvement in braking power, you will also get a HUGE improvement in reducing un-sprung weight. Reducing un-sprung weight is important because the more you shed, the more it's like gaining horsepower.
4. Get a 996 or 997 Turbo/GT3 big brake set either new or used. Same result as #3 above.
Lastly, it's important for everyone to understand that the more braking power you have, the more important the stickiness of your tires become, and the more important your suspension and LSD become in the balancing equation.
Straight line speed and braking power are irrelevant if you don't have tire traction and can't keep the car balanced into, thru and out of the corner.
So the more powerful your brakes, the more you will need to run stickier, softer tires, that heat quickly and get traction under heavy braking. Street tires will not be sufficient.
I run a 4 piston Brembo GT Big Brake kit with 355 front and 345 Rear. Typically run Sport Cups or proxies if I am driving to the track, or Hoosiers if I am transporting the car or tires to the track. This set-up coupled with an LSD and my suspension set-up, has allowed me to out brake and out-turn stock 996 GT3 and 996 Turbos with my 996 having much less horsepower. Obviously, they could eat me for lunch on the straights.
If the GT3s and Turbos have upgraded their suspensions to create parity with brakes and suspensions, then it becomes a driver parity issue into, thru and out of turns, but more horsepower gives them an advantage on the straights.
Glad I got a big brake kit. Would do it all again. Dont be afraid to buy one used. You may just need to have the calipers rebuilt but these things last forever. Remember, it's just a chunk of metal. But it comes down to whats important to each of us. Only you know.
Sweet info and absolutely agree with everything. Currently running Martin's kit and it works perfectly but upon installing I noticed how bad of shape the OEM calipers were hence me looking at other options. I already have the brackets soooo I'll just finish the build. Right now I'm on track to stay more or less within the build points for this year with the exception of the cage. The 380mm is over a year or maybe two away, just amassing the parts over that time. Next year's list will be the suspension refresh, GT3 OEM suspension install as well as the Cargraphic suspension lift... maybe seats. Definitely agree with the absurdity this 3800mm braking system will be and I'll never get anywhere near it's capabilities.
I am runnung 996 gt3 uprights so i have 6 pot, 350mm fronts and the rears are the same as a c2 front, 4 pot 330mm but I am using a spacer and a panarama 350 rotor.
For sreet wheels i have porsche sport technos and track i run Apex rims. These r my filthy apex 18", today im cleaning the street rims and swaping them on so i can get u those pics later.
So the 996 gt3 and the turbo share the same rear caliper. That rear caliper is dimentionally the same as the front caliper on a c2/c4. The pistons may be different and there is a place to bolt the rear brake line on the rear calipers. The factory c2/c4 rear upright will not accept this caliper without some sort of adaptor.
I know this because when i swaped everthing into my car the po gave me the wrong calipers and i was able to use my old front calipers as a temp solution. I already had Martins 350mm brake kit on the front so i was able to use his caliper spacers (only part i needed) and the 350mm rotor i had to bolt them onto the gt3 rear upright.
Hopefully i didnt loose u. My next step is to either adapt the 997 gt3 350mm set up to my car or buy different spacers so i can resell martins kit this winter.
The larger rotors definitely increased unsprung weight on my car.
Luckily I'd already reduced it with my OZ wheels.
The big brake kit pretty much cancelled out my OZ weight savings in the front.
Similar to how removing my spare/jack/toolkit and getting a lighter Odyssey PC-925 battery was cancelled out by the rollbar.
We know but you're trying hard and really that's what counts...
And now, back to our program.
Jeeper, text or pm me one of these days or I can get in touch.
Read over the entire 15 pages of this build and have to say... pretty happy we got the 2021 build items done. Updated page 1 with the 2022 build list which will be pretty suspension heavy and very light on the exterior. I'm due home around the end of Oct, right before my 39th bday, so I'd like to actually drive the car more and maybe get to a couple local Cars n Coffee events. Look forward to getting some sound clips of the car in a tunnel and maybe get some professional shots done!
I added the Rennline battery kit and PC925 battery in my car. Worth a good 12lbs savings. The interstate battery I had before weighed 38lbs. I weighed the new battery and rennline bracket and I’m at 26 flat. That and the spare removal and tool kit, definitely is progress in the right direction in the front of the vehicle. The Lithium units are tempting as well, let me know if you grab one. Antigravity seems to offer a nice product. Hope you get to enjoy your car when you’re back in Oct!
I priced the Antigravity for our cars at about 750.00ish (used the drop down menu and chose 30amp hours... no idea what I really need). I know they have sales often but the quick start feature looks pretty damned cool.
Got an update from RPM Technik which was� they don�t have an update from the manufacturer yet. Kinda knew it was going to take a while but slightly annoyed. The DP is ready to ship which probably is why I was hoping the Duckbill was going to be ready around the same time.
Finally back on US soil and should be back in Miami by next week. Just in time for a family trip to the local pumpkin patch with my girlfriend and her son but also�. For the DP-Motorsport carbon to arrive as well. Also looking to update the overall weight difference between the GT3 wheels vs the OZ and some fender-well area detailing. Here are some photos from the last couple places I just passed through.
I don�t think my Chevy Impala is capable of speeding. Oddly enough my worst ticket ever was in a 2010 Toyota Yaris hatch, 30mph in a school zone� the sign was occluded by a tree and luckily it went to court and it was thrown out. The judge was pissed at the cop, there were 10 people that all had their cases thrown out for the same reason.
Side note, if any of you are ever in the Norfolk/Virginia Beach area� there�s a very good sandwich place called Taste. Love this damned place.
Finally home and about 5mins after walking through the door... went to the garage to start the cars... specifically the Porsche. It was very slow to start but it did on the first try and the battery tested positively(no pun intended). I promised people some sound clips of the exhaust set up and ordered a couple items to properly record the exhaust in different places and speeds. Tried it once before but the wind noise was pretty loud on my Osmo Action camera, did some research and tried a little foam sock thing... still didn't work. After watching some vids, decided to use an external mic, the rest of the items will be here next week so hopefully I'll have the vids ready by next weekend. I'll post pics of what I used and what worked, here�s a pic of a couple of things that I�ll try.
Next, someone reached out and bought the Wilwood trailer adapter so I'll have to remove the bumper. With the bumper off, I'll clean up the area and the rear wheel well. The rear pads and rotors are beat to hell so the rear brakes will be done next week as well.
Not much of a rum person, more of a Scotch and Whiskey kind of guy. I did get some rum from some of the places we visited for work. Definitely not trying the Orange Liqueur from Curcao, that�s for guests but the rest of the stuff was regarded pretty well. My grandpa used to have Ron del Barrilito and figured it would look nice in the bar.
I�m staying at my girl�s house tonight but I�ll dig out what I have in the cabinet tomorrow. Pretty sure I have a Glenlevit 25 in there somewhere. My favorite is Oban 14 and Oban Little bay, really like Japanese whiskey too.
Soon!
I used to live that deployed life too, man. Great build so far. What�s in the box?
I�m in South Florida too. Us guys in the area should do a meet up sometime.
Man that�d be pretty awesome, do you go to the local meets? I�ll finally be here for the one next month but I�m definitely down to meet up. That�s a carbon fiber GT3(RS?) lip from DP-Motorsports� finally arrived.
I just recently moved back home to FL after many years abroad and in other states. Haven�t been to any local meets, but if you have any details on when/where I�ll definitely come out.
If you enjoy The Yamazaki then try Akashi, Suntory, or for something really special...a bottle of Hibiki. I got into Japanese whiskeys about 12 years ago...amazing stuff!
Well on a scale of 1-10, I give it a 7 on initial inspection. There are a couple gaps in the fiber and the resin is a little cloudy but overall it�s not too bad and nothing that can�t be improved on. Think the first thing would be to paint the underside black to make sure you wouldn�t see through the small gaps, next would be to polish the entire lip(I have some foam mini attachments somewhere from my mobile detailing days) and probably get it wrapped in some type of PPF. Overall I�m not thrilled but not terribly disappointed.
You know what wasn�t cool? Removing the god forsaken Wilwood hitch receiver from the crash bar. Had to drill the back of the bar to remove the bolt heads� freaking pain in my ***.
I have no experience with the Shieldag or the Japanese whiskeys but I'm always up for trying something new.
The map in the background is of your travels I assume? (I'm a bit of a map geek)
Yessir! I need to update it but I was in the Indian Ocean, East Pac, South China Sea and the entire Caribbean for work. My mom always liked the idea and thought it was cool too.
This site costs me a lot of money. Found this gem of a thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...eadlights.html
Decided to jump on a set of projectors and upgraded bulbs. Here's the link fo the company and I'll link the install too.
https://retrofitlab.com/collections/...hid-headlights
You Tube
The plan is replace all the bulbs to include the HIDs. The lights are a little dimmer than some of the other cars I've seen and again it's probably because I'm spoiled with my VW's adaptive HIDs... they're freaking amazing. I did get some unfortunate news from RPM Technik, we're 22 weeks in and the duckbill hasn't been started. The original lead time was 12 weeks, Simon has been cool and will have a real timeline or a refund by next week. Honestly, I'll probably end up just waiting because it's already been paid and the money has been budgeted for the year. Considered the center exhaust set up but that beast is almost 5400.00 USD!
I got myself into a pickle� while removing the hitch, I removed the rear wheels to clean in there and do the brakes. The quickjack system is badass BUT I positioned it in a way that kept me from closing the garage door when the car was up past the locking mechanism. I had to close the garage door for a minute, so with the rear wheels removed I brought the car down. Apparently there�s a leak in one of the fittings and air got in and it wouldn�t come up.
Since the car was resting on the Quickjack, turns out there�s a somewhat functional use for the bumperettes!
Had to remove the rear bumper to access the bumper crush bar. A regular floor jack didn�t fit anywhere and after the car was high enough, I slid the Quick Jack out and replaced it with a low pro floor jack. So check your Quickjack fittings often and if you�re in the same predicament� the bunperettes are there.
Took her on a 220mi drive to see my parents, the car is a beast and pretty comfortable. Need to upgrade the sound system eventually. So far the Chemical Guys Carbon Force has been holding up beautifully. This photo hasn�t been edited.
Picked up another rifle, this particular one is of the WW2 variety. Can you guess this round?
Close! It�s a 30-06 for a M1 Garand, should be at my FFL next week. Also, 30-06 is insane now. Picked some up Sig Elite ammo locally for 50.00, that�s only for 20rds.
Funny you mention an Enfield, I bought a parts kit to convert the .303 to a Delisle Commando that shoots .45ACP through a integrally suppressed set up. Now I need to get an Enfield.
My dad had something ready for me when I came up to central Florida to see him and the rest of the family, I�m the sole person in my immediate family who hasn�t moved out of Miami. This is a Accutron Spaceview 214, my dad bought it in Puerto Rico when he was 15� this watch is 54yrs old. Just ordered a battery and looking for a proper band.
Catching up:
I did recognize the round in your hand. My dad had an M1 that the Army sent home with him from the Korean war. He surrendered it when some news story came out about a kid shooting his brother with his fathers gun. I asked him why he would surrender it. He kept it in pieces in different parts of the house, and we never knew where he kept the ammunition. "eliminates the curiosity". True.
The watch is very cool. This was the space watch, right? ETA, duh, you already said that.
Got some updates the duckbill is currently getting QC�d and hopefully will ship this week. Haven�t been able to get much done but did get around to cleaning up the VW and 996.
Been driving it more often and for those who have IG, I have a WOT highway run on there if you�d like to hear the exhaust. I know it�s a normal thing but man� the brakes squeal like crazy so I bought all new hardware upfront and need to do a full rear brake change, including rotors.
Also got to work on my best friend�s truck. He had lime contamination� we had to clay and polish the entire freaking truck.
At the end, it came out amazing and the ceramic coating really does wonders on black. What looks like contaminants in the second pic is actually the gold flake in the paint.
I just don�t get why the sump was that clean. I fully expected the pan to look like a grenade went off inside but other than that little brownish thing which I can only assume is plastic, the rest of the pan is void of anything else. The car ran without any weird sounds and I genuinely believe this is residual metal shavings from when the IMS flange was bored out but who knows, I collected an oil sample and will be sending it out in the AM.
Thanks brother.
Looks like you will have lots of oil testing, borescopes and oil changes in the future to be safe. Don't know the ins and out of the Ims procedure they performed but to an inexperienced mechanic like me, it seems like a logical explanation. Be curious to see what your shop says.
I�m sorry to see this.
Was this the first oil change after the IMS bearing was replaced?
I know my shop ran break in oil after the IMS Solution install.
Can�t remember if they did one or two flushes with break oil before filling it with DT-40.
They also had me do a first oil change at 1,500 miles.
Yuck! Sorry to see this as well. Because now all the questions and uncertainties come up.
-Do you have pictures from the last oil filter?
Agreed that the sump being clean is baffling. The filter is first thing after the pickup and oil pump. You would expect to see this in the sump.
Agreed with GC996. Take your time, investigate well. And good luck!
Yeah this is the first change after the fact and Mr. Navarro from LN was pretty quick to respond to me on IG. I ordered some BR30 and going to run it for 400-500mi and drain. Charles recommended that I do a couple short interval oil changes until it clears but the damage has probably been done and he agreed that the debris in the filter were from the block boring which obviously is aluminum. Luckily I had a spin on filter that really did its thing. The car is unbelievably clean and now I can focus on the engine upgrade so I'm not taking it hard... it's something we call have to keep in mind because it's inevitable.
I don't but I do have the oil analysis which came back clean, Just dropped off the oil sample from this current oil change at the post office so we'll have some info from Speediagnostix in a week or so.
When metal particles are up to 10 micron in size, they are still detectable by a Tribology lab in an oil analysis. When the particles increase in size (usually detectable with the naked eye), they will push through the oil pump and be caught in the filter. As wear accelerates, the metal particles will increase in size and not pass the oil pickup tube. There is a screen on the pickup tube that protects the oil pump from large metal particles. The large particles that don't pass through the pickup tube will begin collecting in the oil sump. As wear continues to get worse and you'll find that the sump is polluted in metal laden oil.
As Charles Navarro mentioned to you, the metal you're seeing in the filter is probably from the boring process. No telling how much damage it did to the internal components of the engine. That's why I tell people to leave the 6203 M97 bearing alone unless you're doing a full rebuild and definitely, don't use the Vertex method of extracting the bearing. The M97 bearing has very few reports of failures.
Well we have a first hand account of what happens when you do the Vertex method. I have zero regrets and also going to get the IMS redone with the understanding that I�m doing a build later next year or mid 2023.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/334x251/492502e8_c090_4393_999f_958428580800_187d3cdf7f3e93d82c9024353a89a5968d850dba.gif
Definately a lousy situation. But we are all moving towards an inevitable rebuild someday with a 20-25 year old engine. Life is all about making lemonade out of lemons isn't it.
Chunks, looking forward to your sorting out if there is any damage, what steps you take to handle it and ultimately what you do for a rebuild. Great news is that just like you did with the rest of the car, you can build your engine to what you want. Sounds like a win win over time.
Man that�s how I look at it and after waiting 38yrs to buy one after walking away from a 964 and 993 before the price explosion� it�s just how it is. On a lighter note, should be getting some updates from RPM on the duckbill this week. Since the car is up on jacks, the rear brakes will be done and just general clean up will be completed also. Went to Mexico last weekend for a wedding and brought back Mezcal which was delicious. I can�t smell tequila without immediately gagging so the Mezcal is a very very good sipping alcohol.
Got around to working on the delaminating carbon fiber on the air vents, I did a mediocre job but will wait for it come apart and redo it.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/220x188/oh_my_sweet_jesus_c3a4d3ad9d77a2b42e4d7308510ab25a521d1ba0.gif
Good man - you deserve it and that is one of the nicest carbon parts I've seen in a long time - looks like it could have come out of Varis. Can't wait for pics when you have it in hand, you won't be able to post enough of them.
Think I�ll have tracking info here soon. In the photos it appears like it�s a 1x1 weave which is very similar to the JDM brands like Varis and Chargespeed. I�m hoping the fitment is clean and won�t require any fitting.
My GT3 spoiler didn't have the mesh on it and asked if the CSR Duckbill came with the mesh, it does and comes with the following:
- Softer Lid Strut
- Wiring Harness
- Cable retaining clips
- Rubber buffers
The mesh itself is powder coated black and closely resembles the factory mesh. The Evo model has large vents up top and 3 vents below the duckbill itself... there's a lot of mesh. If someone wants a non vented model, I do believe they have one in stock so contact Simon Bunce.
I hope to have shipping info after Christmas.
Man with this new variant and the insanity of our current world� I�d try to get the one he has in stock now.
Just got my analysis back from SpeeDiagnostix and despite the aluminum in the oil filter, the results were favorable. Charles is probably right in regards to the damage being done but this does make me a feel a little better. The plan is still to change oil a couple times and check the filter.
The car is currently waiting for rear rotors before I start driving her again. In the meantime I�ve been cleaning up wheel wells and probably fit the DP- Motorsports carbon lip that�s just taking up space in the garage.
Thanks brother and I�m aiming for late 2023 for the 3.8 swap and next year I�ll be buying the AOS and those supporting items. 2022 is going to suck, I�ll be out for work from Feb to Sep so I won�t have much time for anything, let alone being without the car.
Man - Very grateful to have dudes like you sacrificing, putting in dat work... You deserve all the carbon parts and horsepowers as far as I'm concerned. And belt feds, you deserve belt feds
Really appreciate that and I turned in my Chevron and Wings many years ago. I gotta give it up to the guys that stayed in and deal with all the trash of the newer and kindler military(all branches of it). My buddies have some belt feds� sooo freaking fun.
While looking through all my crap inside the house, I found a scale� a scale I purchased for the purpose of weighing things coming off the car. So, the GT3 wheels that came off the car with tires weighed in at:
Front GT3 wheels with 235-40-18 tires - 49.7lbs
Rear GT3 wheels with 285-35-18 tires - 55.9lbs
Front OZ wheels with 235-40-18 tires - 40.9lbs
Rear OZ wheels with 295-30-18 tires - 47.6lbs
The approx weight for the GT3 set up is 211.12lbs and the OZs came in at 177lbs for a total weight loss of 35.12lbs.
Got around to cleaning up the bumper and adding a Rennline mesh kit to the opening. Pretty straight forward but I have an air diverting panel in the center grill so it was just the radiator openings that received the treatment. Waiting on the rear pad clips, the ones I ordered were too wide so I ordered another set. In the meantime, I replaced all the hardware on all the pads and found a couple spots in the paint where there some paint defects.
I�m almost done with the polish and going to reapply the ceramic coating in multiple layers. The VW is going to get a 3M ceramic coating and from there I�ll compare the wear/cleaning characteristics of both.
Bumper is looking good! I've done the same covering the large vents on my turbo bumper via DIY and some very similar mesh from amazon. What happened with the coating btw? You've done a fantastic job with the paint correction last time. Larry from Ammo NYC has a cool video working on Mike Musto's 996 and had some interesting comments about the 996 paint and how things went - it's a good watch.
The covers are almost necessary now that I saw how much debris made it to the pocket below the radiator and has no way of coming out other than from the front... lots of rubber pieces in there from road racing. So with the polishing, I have garage door lights that are pretty bright that I didn't have when I was doing the original paint correction in addition to having the car up higher since it's on QuickJacks. I noticed small spots in the door area that I may have missed or were less conspicuous when I originally did the work. Now that the car was up, I decided to strip and reapply.
Finally got these projects completed:
- Drive belt
- Rear pads and rotors
- Front caliper hardware
- Polish
- Leather cleaning and conditioner
- Wheel well detail
- Mesh install
- Transmission fluid swap(Driven 75w90)
Sadly the ceramic coating couldn�t be added since it was old and you have to use within a certain time period of opening the bottle. It went on extremely well but once it got too old, it wouldn�t apply smoothly but I was able to get 3 full cars completed and one of them was a 1500 Dodge Ram. Just ordered the 3M kit and their booster for my VW that will probably used on the 911 as well. So if you�re in the market to do a ceramic coating on your own, the Chemical Guys product is good. Here�s a pic of a close up of that paint after polish and wax.
Slate is amazing, man I love this color so much. Also here�s a pic of the mesh installed. There was a ton of crap in the radiator shrouds so the mesh is a requirement.
Feels good to drive this car, the transmission fluid swap didn�t do much as far as smoothness is concerned but the car shifted fine to begin with so I�m fine with that. Got a DHL shipping notification� something good is on the way from England.
Well the moment has come� took delivery of the duckbill today and I cannot put into words how nice it is. It is perfect in every facet. Edges are clean, weave is uniform and there�s not a stand out of place. Photos don�t do it justice and it was absolutely worth the wait. If you were on the fence on getting one, I strongly recommend you take the plunge.
I can�t wait to get it on the car for some proper pics.
Yessir it most certainly is.
Since Slate is darker than Seal Gray, think it�ll compliment the carbon really well.
Thanks and I�ve gone back and forth with the wrap vs clear coating, looks like I�ll be dropping it off Tuesday or Wednesday to get cleared. Pretty excited but have a question for the group, you guys think it�s worth wrapping the underside in heat insulation tape?
why not try it with the clear coating first. Should look awesome with the color of your paint. At the end of the day, the only person you gotta make happy is you!
No idea what to suggest on heat insulation. Is it needed, or is there a benefit?
Been driving almost every day to get up to 1000mi and change the oil. So far the car has been fantastic and hasn�t made any strange sounds or odd puffs of smoke. I�m not naive to think I�m clear of any damage but I really do think the oil filter did its job and kudos to the spin on filter.
The 3M ceramic kit arrived today and my initial impression is the kit will be similar to the Chemical Guys product. Now there�s one thing I immediately noticed, the applicator is wider and uses microfiber bonnets instead of a 4 sided narrow microfiber block that the Chemical Guys kit comes with. Sounds dumb but after coating a 2019 Dodge 1500� the extra girth(that�s what she said) is welcomed.
The second bottle is called a Booster. According to 3M, the booster extends the shine and protection of the coating. Pretty excited to try this kit out, since I stripped the Porsche of the CG coating, I�ll be applying this kit instead.
The kit and booster cost 212.31 shipped from Interwest, the kit itself was 139.00 for those who are interested. I�m hoping to get it done this weekend as the weather here has been amazing, well except for Sunday�. Whole state was storming and a tornado touched down in Ft Myers. I�ll update as I go.
Here�s the test fit and weight of the GT3 spoiler without the fan.
I�m pretty sure I�m not the only person stateside with one of these but I can�t put into words how nice this duckbill is and amazed these aren�t more prevalent. Also saved about 17lbs from an already light spoiler in the GT3, mine is OEM so I can�t speak for a Misha.
Lovely! This is exactly the direction I want to go with my car.
Is this car for street use or what? I�m thinking about OZ Alleggerita wheels for street use, but I read elsewhere that they might not handle potholes and such very well
I have been running my OZs on street and track for ~5 years. No issues whatsoever. I am super careful to avoid potholes, however.
BTW==>That Ducktail is amazing, I expect they will see a spike in orders!
For approximately 20 weeks or so� actually in the process of getting one myself and that�s the what the lead time has ballooned to. Gotta love the global supply chain right now!
Defiantly worth it.
Simon was a good dude to work with and the end justifies the wait. I really want the hood now so hopefully sometime within the next couple months
Thank you! It def changes the look up a bit.
I was able to get the 3M ceramic coating completed yesterday. It goes on very differently and has a little more friction or drag as you move the surface but it buffs off easier. The shine is amazing and honestly for the price the Chemical Guys product would serve most a little better.
Car is looking VERY sharp! Nice job on the detail and everyone knows clean cars drive better
Looking forward to seeing it with the ducktail on.
I've had pretty good results with Armor Shield ceramic coating but when time comes to do it again I'll probably go with the combo from Gtechniq CSL as the main coating and the EXO top coat. Have heard very good things about it.
I have spacers up front that were provided when I did the 350mm rotor upgrade, I believe they're 5mm and here are the specs on the OZ's:
Front - 18x8.5 +53
Rear - 18x11 +63
I was going to link the wheels via TireRack but the rears are "No longer Available", the 10" width version is but not the 11" width.
Thanks brother and I'll look into those, I like knowing what's out there and there's a chance that I'm going to start doing some detailing work on the side.
That's awesome! That's basically what I do as a "thanks for letting me drive your car for the weekend" deal. Have a 993 on the list once it's not stupid cold. I sense you might enjoy going down the rabbit hole as much as I do when it comes to detailing. If that's the case, check out Obsessed Garage and some of their content on detailing. The guy rants a lot in monotone voice but I find his character hilarious and his never ending chase for perfection when it comes to detailing, among other things.
I'll check them out because I've found that random things really help out when doing certain jobs. I got my Lexus certification back in 2004 and learned a lot about paint in general but not much on technique. My buddy with the pick up is a city FireFighter and once his co workers saw his truck after the polish... they want me to do work for them.
Here�s a good pic of the shine after the ceramic coating and polishing. Oh and one thing, I ended using two bonnets to complete the job according to their instructions.
That picture is probably one of my faves but it definitely shows the rear fender gap� which is a lot. As mentioned I have an OEM GT3 coilover set that has been rebuilt. The car has a M030 suspension on it right now and it�s a hair lower OEM, my garage entrance has a 2.5� squared edge which is a requirement for hurricane rated garage door. Getting in and out(straight in) will be an issue once I get the GT3 suspension installed or any other kit for that matter.
Now, I�m looking to get a set of Tarett LCAs from Philooo which I can assume are for the GT3 suspension he sold me with the car. I�ll need to get the rear hats and drop links as well. Essentially converting a C2 M030 to an OEM GT3 with Tarett LCAs. With that set up, I can run a Cargraphic airlift kit that is solely made for a GT3 OEM Bilstein kit at about $3k. Just sent an inquiry email to Roberuta(JDM brand) to see what their kit would cost.
My other options would be to forgo the GT3 & Tarret setup and do a Non GT3 Ohlins R&T or Bilstein PSS10 with Elephant LCAS. Either way, the Cargraphic or Roberuta kit will be included. The car will see some DE events and Porsche events in the state or in the SE. Hopefully I�ll make a decision while being gone for these next 6 months. The end goal would be to get the desired stance and replace all the worn suspension parts.
My backup project would be the exterior refresh with a new cup front bumper and CSR hood. The back up to the backup would be he 380mm brakes. Guess these are my 2022 plans, just typing out loud.
@TheChunkNorris
's car was amazing, but he's an even better dude. I knew his car would present well, but that car looks like it was built a year or two ago, not twenty years ago.
From pictures online, I was never really a fan of the .2 Aerokit rear spoiler. Well, I was wrong� in person, that thing is beautiful. Sets off the car nicely. I�m sure the ducktail will be even nicer. Also, I was very impressed with the 3.6 engine. Nice punch down low. An interesting contrast between our cars is that Chunk has exhaust mods and I have a K&N. Both make great noise, but obviously sound so different. Very interesting to drive them back to back. I like both sounds. I think ideally, you�d have a combination of both, but I could see them losing their distinction when they are making noise simultaneously. Lastly, I realized I
need
to get a set of the LED tail lights like Chunk�s. They are so clean, and look more factory than the Depo-style that tried to mimic the 997 LED tail lights.
I will say the suspension surprised me a lot. My car has the M030 and I haven�t driven many other P cars so I had zero experience until driving Barbancourt�s .1. Can�t get over how nice the Numeric is and that�s 100% going in my car when I get back in late August.
I second going to Beat Culture, always a good crowd.
Also, there are quite a few of us that gtg at Imperial Moto and Helmet One in Miami Saturday and Sunday Mornings. Check out Vintage Vices' IG for postings/dates.
Wasn�t particularly impressed the only time I�ve gone. I�d give it a shot again this month if possible, my departure date is between the 21st and 28th and won�t be back until late August or early Sept� assuming we don�t mobilize to the Black Sea. The Flat 6 Rebel guy is pretty nice, I�ve chatted with him on IG.
Just got back from Disney and couldn�t stop thinking of getting the damn ducktail installed so that�s exactly what happened when I walked in the door. Finished mounting the mesh and aligned it, came out pretty square. Feel like it doesn�t open as much because there�s a lip that touches the back of the hinge, I might have to notch it but would rather wait until Lee Sibley let�s me know what his looks like.
I need to come see that ducktail this week. Looks great, brother!
As far as suspension you have good point of reference after driving my car. I selfishly want to see you put on the Ohlins R&T because I always wondered if they are better than the Feals. I'm really happy with my setup, though. Good thing is suspension is easy to sort out... at least for the street.
Does the ducktail piece come with attach points for the fan and other parts? Do some people install this without the fan? I live in TN, a hot place in the summer, like Miami and I can't imagine not having the fan. Just wondering how much DIY I'd have to do to install. I assume this is the "EVO" option? I first saw this on the Brit Youtube guy's green 996. While I love the clean looks of a basic Carrera, I can't stand the rumble when the "spoiler" lifts. This is the perfect solution. Classy. Your car looks great!
Thanks for the compliments and yes the fan installs the same way, along with the trunk striker, seal and bumpers. I'm not sure about people installing it without the fan and the install was pretty straight forward since it's so damn light at 4.3lbs. I contacted the people who installed Lee's ducktail about trimming the flange just forward of the hinges, the trunk doesn't open all the way without trimming that small section... about an inch squared. The best thing about the ducktail vs the GT3 is rearward visibility, the GT3 wing is low enough where you can see the reflection of streetlights... which gives you the feeling like there's someone always in your blindspot.
I'm interested to hear how the car handles at speed with the ducktail. I'm interested in one because a: it looks so damn good and b: I don't like the rumble that the spoiler makes when it raises. Today I had the opportunity to take it faster than spoiler raising speed - I tucked into two very basic Honda and Toyota sedans who blew by me. The car frankly felt squirrely above 90. It really was not a comfortable feeling. I've been tooling along the highway keeping up with traffic in my F-150 occasionally and looked down to realize I'm doing 85 (not my intent), but the truck was smooth as hell and I didn't even realize I was going that fast. The 996 today really felt light on the wheels above 90.
Let us know how the ducktail feels when you wring it out on a nice stretch of road.
Thanks!
I don�t want to derail Chunks thread but I don�t think your problem is related to the rear spoiler. Tires, alignment, or suspension are the likely culprits.
This is not a normal characteristic of the car. A spoiler is not a solution for what you are describing. I would have your tires, alignment, and suspension looked at immediately. Your car should feel rock steady over 100 mph.
Crosswinds do a number on these cars, too. My car is pretty solid at speed, but crosswinds make it feel a lot less planted and secure. I don't have any additional aero... OEM or otherwise, so I'm not sure if that helps a crosswind situation or not.
Chunks,
I would just keep posting pictures of it daily on every thread you can. Never get tired of looking at it. If you think you are repeating pictures, just set a different bottle of scotch and rifle from your collection in the picture somewhere and it will be a brand new picture. It's all eye candy to us.
Well I was able to procure some very rare Swiss hotness for a G36 conversion I have. As some of you know, B&T is a Swiss company and they make weapons and accessories. Turned out that someone who follows me on IG has some friends that had several sets of G36 transitional handguards. For any years, there were no rails that allowed for 12 o clock attachments on G36s. These are extremely rare to find and luckily he had 3 for sale, two of my friends have G36s/T36 so I hooked them up.
There�s a little extension on the top potion for whatever you�d want up there. Here�s a pic of the newer rail on my G36C(converted from a SL8 so it�s all German).
OG transitional rail
Lastly the OE HK C hanguard.
I love the rifle and hyped that I secured that rail� extremely lucky. If any of you all are in Miami, West Kendall area, hit up this place called Taco Bao�t it. It�s a Mexican-Cuban Asian fusion spot and it�s delicious.
The first pic is a Boa taco with fried pork belly and the second is a chicken taco that uses wanton dough for the taco. The place is pretty new and always packed but absolutely worth the wait.
Very cool. Love HK. Have had a USP 9mm since the Bush admin. Still love shooting it. While I appreciate all of the new stryker fired stuff, still like something with a hammer.
I like firearms in general and I do have some USPs.
My favorite pistol to shoot is a CZ TacSport and a Walther PPQ Q4 SF. My carry gun is a Sig P365 X with an optic, I don�t particularly like Sig US as a company but that pistol is perfect. I usually recommend Glocks to people when they ask because they�re almost boringly reliable. Also got around to organizing the ammo and parts closet.
I wish and I'm hoping to have a SP5 next year or so. Currently own two roller delayed actions from Cohaire Arms and a PTR C93 which are both clones. Oddly enough the Cohaire is a MP5K PDW clone and has all German internals, runs like a sewing machine. PTR purchased uncompleted Century rifles and finished them up, both of them are great shooters.
The 996.X gang was well represented and there was one other one that really really made my night. It was a very clean 996.2 Turbo, Silver on that cinnamon brown interior. The drop was perfect, had HRE mesh wheels and was as clean as mine... not a swirl mark on her.
I had a damn epiphany. You guys remember when I said I had some weird scratches in some places and couldn�t figure out how they got there? One my neighbors reported seeing a freaking peacock running around the neighborhood which coincidentally was by my house. Im willing to bet that bastard was perched on my fender and causes the unusual scratch patterns. This will also explains the giant bird **** splatter I�ve had to wash off my VW and pavers for the month.
I�ll also post this in the regional area but there�s going to be a 996 popup meet on March 12th. If you�re local, there are going to be some nice cars there.
For as beautiful as they are� they�re a nuisance like your newish neighbors. I can�t stand them! There�s a really posh neighborhood in the Brickell area that recently had some issues with Peacocks and I believe people are starting to notice how destructive they are especially since they�re not indigenous.
Animal control won�t pick them up and I think my HOA is hiring or hired a private company to remove them.
Excellent!
Bro I wish, more so for Iguanas than for the one Peacock. I live next to a marina and they�re everywhere. I grew up with Rotties but surprisingly enough you don�t see many of them down in Miami nowadays.
I finally got the led tails on. Doesn�t pop on Arctic Silver like it does on the darker gray like your car, IMO. Looks ok, though. My stock lights get condensation in them so I�ll fix that and consider whether to reinstall them after. Or� I could just repaint my car�
I remember watch a video on YuTube with a couple of guys that were hired in southern Florida to get rid of iguanas on golf courses, public parks etc. These guys had high powered air rifles. Had no idea the air rifle technology had advanced so much.
I�ve had a Sheridan (I think they still make them - also Benjamin) air rifle for close to 50 years now - at full pump (no more than 8 recommended) it�s got close to .22 spec. muzzle velocity (probably for 50-75 feet or so). It�s also got a rifled barrel which keeps the pellet from tumbling (for at least a while) and is pretty damn accurate. I can�t say I�ve ever shot an iguana with it, but lots of squirrels, rabbits etc. I don�t think it would have any problem with an Iguana. A Peacock wouldn�t be a problem either as long as it�s a head shot�Used to be able to shoot it through one side of a galvanized steel garbage can at 25��
I'm going to check those out, been looking at other target sports now that shooting is getting crazy as far as ammo prices are concerned. My buddy does archery but my girlfriend's son starts soccer this year in April so depending on how much he likes it... will dictate how much free time I'll have moving forward. Pretty sure someone picked up the Peacock or killed it because I haven't seen giant bird turds and I've been flying my DJI around looking for it. My neighbor knows what I do for work and finds it hilarious that a UAV guy is using a drone to find a pesky peacock.
Well� this is going to end up being like the Great Emu War but with peacocks. We have 3 now and this was a photo taken by a neighbor who lives 5 houses down.
Florida is the Australia of the US and this area is particularly weird because it�s close to Redlands which is all farm and agriculture, I�m also close to Black Point marina and they have one of the bigger saltwater crocodile concentrations in the state. The invasive snake issue is huge down here, along with iguanas and boar. Just think we have the extremes in regard to snakes, pigmy rattlers which are the smallest �poisonous� snakes in the US to the largest in the Eastern Diamondback Rattlers. Nevermind the Python and Anacondas that happily breed in the Everglades now that idiots released them there over the years. We have Black Bear(baby ones), White Tail Deer, Key Deer, Panthers, Coyotes, and Boar.
The HOA is looking into it again from what I understand. I live in the burbs, adjacent to farmland so the likelihood anyone at FWC would remove them is slim to none.
We got alot of coyotes in the western suburbs of Chicago. They keep our geese problem under control. But they are bold as they walk around the neighborhoods. If you have a big dog, they stay away. Certainly would help your peacock problem. But many little dogs would disappear. Love wildlife, but it can be a pain in the ****.
Thanks brother and it�ll look so much better with less wheel gap. The flooring is from RaceDeck, they have a newer model with rubber feet to keep them quiet. SwissTrax makes very good flooring as well.
I have a set of OEM GT3 Bilsteins and getting a bunch of spare parts to include some Tarret LCAs, GT3 sways and endlinks. I�ll need rear hats and looking to buy all new parts(dog bones and etc) and a suspension lift.
The 996 Revival meet was a success! Easily 30+ showed up and man all of them were really nice. Wish I would�ve gotten more pics, especially with the two Zanzibar cars(Targa and Turbo) but both iterations of the 996 cars were well represented. My car was the only Slate car which was nice and the only Ducktail� it was definitely a crowd favorite. Several GT3s were there and a Yellow one parked next to me. It was hotter than hell but windy, no rain so overall it was a nice day.
Both
@barbancourt
and
@GTSchport
were there and Jahre in the photos belongs to GTSchport.
Thanks for the invite
@TheChunkNorris
! Was a great time and some really nice cars out there. The South Florida 996 community is stronger than I thought. Real friendly crowd.
Over on the Gulf side today, I saw both a speed yellow turbo and a midnight blue metallic C4S (yeah both 996s) in a matter minutes while driving back from Sanibel Island.
Finally sourced a set of 6 piston calipers for the 380mm build. They've seen cleaner days but I'm glad I'm not paying as much for new units, still planning on installing this set up at the beginning of next year since the suspension takes priority. The calipers will obviously be fully rebuilt and powder coated, thinking I'll go a factory gray metallic since I'll eventually go with red faced E88s.
Are you doing any other mods in conjunction with the calipers and rotors? Such as... is a master cylinder from another model recommended or required? What adapter are you using to mount them?
Was it a regular 997mc? Any specific unit?
Yes absolutely, I was looking at the 996GT3 unit but just saw De Jeeper's post... going to have to track one of those down. Rear Calipers are either going to be 997 Turbo or 996 GT3s. My kit came from a dude named Fabian but the kit that Jason got from Hill would be more cost effective. To anyone who's reading this thread, I totally understand this set up is overkill and more aesthetically pleasing since the calipers on my car need to be rebuilt... might as well upgrade.
Doing a quick google search this 997 unit came up:
997-355-910-31
https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/o...er-99735591031
If you scroll down to the vehicle fitment chart, it's the same unit for all 997s including GT cars.
After chatting with
@De Jeeper
about the C2 to GT3 suspension swap, I feel pretty good about what I have and where the swap is going. Phil has been awesome in facilitating parts that he has laying around. He sent me this pic.
I�m going to have a stupid amount of adjustability but I do need to get both sets of LCAs which is fine. The Cargraphic or Roberuta cups will have to wait until next year now that the Touareg will need suspension and wheel upgrade asap.
Got a couple pics from a local photographer named Fabian Guerreros, his handle on IG is Curatedbyfabian. These are from the 996 Revival event on the 12th.
Glad to see you're doing this! A minor drop and some spacers will take your car to the next level aesthetically. And damn that duck tail looks sooo good!
I'll have GT3 sways, they're not pictured but included. Justin and I were chatting as he's looking for LCAs as well, think I've narrowed it down to Tarett Cup Series with the GT3 rubber thrust arm spec.
What are you guys with Quickjacks doing to get lowered cars on there? I need the adapter to widen the lift points for the VW and it's a tight fit with the ROW by itself.
I don't have a quickjack but I have used pieces of 2x12 under the tires to get my jack to fit under several of my lower vehicles. I drive the car onto them before rolling the jack under the car.
I watched it, and I thought to myself I hope he interviews Joel so
we can check out his car. Was bummed when he didn�t go into more detail on your car.
Man I would've loved to chat a little more with him and really was chatting it up with
@barbancourt
and
@GTSchport
. Unfortunately the bulk of the cars were on a decently busy street, he was just about to get to me and almost got smacked. He later approached me right as I was saying my good byes, probably spoke to him for 5mins... there were a lot of cars especially some really nice higher end ones too. Poor dude was being a very gracious host but sometimes that takes time. I left earlier than most because I deployed the next day which involved a flight from Miami - Munich - and two stops in Greece. Hope he does it again because the turnout was very great and honestly the quality of cars were fantastic.
Decided to buy a set of 997 forged LCAs after chatting with Ed from DemonSpeed. Slowly amassing the parts to finish up the suspension minus the air cup kit for now.
Unrelated to cars, which is almost as expensive are Suppressors/Silencers and how long it takes to get approved to own one. My good friends just happen to own a shop and are Class 3 SOTs so I order 90% of my suppressors through them.
I do an inventory of my NFA items every time I leave, first time in a long time that all the kids are in one picture. My buddies just let me know the last stamp was approved� in a little over a year. The ATF and IRS are up there as the most inefficient govt groups I interact with. Unfortunately there are 3 - 4 more that I�d like to add before I call it quits.
I'm running a marathon and not a sprint.... this is about 15yrs worth of collecting. The Knights and Q were the only real high end suppressors but the rest are pretty affordable.
In my infinite boredom, I've been watching DIY suspension installs on 996s via YouTube... naturally. I've come to the realization that the cage will need to be unbolted to remove the Bose box. Now I'll clean the rear windows in addition to installing the coillovers.
What Bose box are you talking about, the one in the passenger footwell? I hate that thing.
I'm doing my suspension right now too. Two days in and still on the first corner. Figuring out a lot of stuff as I go. The next corner should go better...?
There is a sub box on the back shelf for some. I think u do have to remove to get to the top 3 nuts for the shock....maybe? Just pull the carpet back and if u can see the nuts u can usually get a wobble and an extension to them even with the cage in place.
From the video I saw, the guy slid the box forward. Not entirely sure how far forward he went. What cage do you have? It probably doesn�t matter but I�m curious. Either way it�s going to be an absolute chore getting my chubby *** back there to get the top screws off.
He removed the Bose covers and used a T25, pulled the box forward and there�s also a plug on the drivers rear. Then used a panel remover for the bottom shelf, think he removed some bracket as well before getting to the carpeted covers over the rear shock towers.
Judging by what you and Tex are saying, There probably isn�t going to be an issue and it�ll be done with the cage in the car. The thought of removing that beautiful red bastard would�ve kept me up for the next 5 months. Absolute monster to install and that�s that I did it by myself(very stoopid on my part) and without damaging anything.
It�s located behind the rear seats, across the rear shelf. Honestly didn�t realize it was a separate component until now.
Been chatting with Justin and Jason about doing the Dragon the first weekend of Nov, assuming we don't have another insane world drama and I get home in Sept. Not looking for a huge turn out but it would be cool to get some members out there. I've never done it and trying to do one a year in either the Porsche or the VW(street vs trail). What do you all think?
Sounds like a blast! I've been wanting to go for a while as well. I am moving down to New Orleans next month, which would put me within a reasonable range. I won't know what the new job will look like for a few months, but if it works with my work, I'd be down to join you guys. I've been following each of your builds and would love to get to see the cars in person. You all have done some impressive work.
November might not be too bad, crowd wise. I've been there twice, both times in summer, and unless I went out at 6:00am it was a zoo. Very very popular spot.
Justin mentioned something about an event the weekend before. I love dressing up for Halloween and I think my girl has her son for that weekend prior... my 40th bday is the weekend before that so the first weekend of November seems like it'll be the best. Besides, I've never seen that area in the Fall.
New Orleans is one of my favorite places in the US! My buddy got married there and we had a fantastic time and I'll be putting some info out as time passes.
Long way from Spokane, the company I work for is down on the Columbia River across from Hood River OR... I love WA. Did Survival School up your way in Fairchild AFB.
For those who cared for info on RPM Technik's carbon hood, they're currently reevaluating how they bond the hood cap to the reinforcement now so they're not currently taking orders on them. Simon will let me know once they are and I think that'll be a project for 2023. Also signed up for track day events via Chin Motorsports, I'm 99% sure I'll be doing Homestead Motor Speedway in mid Nov and maybe Sebring if it's not an open course. De Jeeper linked a vendor who sells race equipment and my old Arai helmet is from 2010 I believe so it's time for a new one. Pretty excited to do some of those events and Homestead is an exit away from my house, I hear them on race days.
So my first F1 race at Homestead in '92. Does that make me old
.
i wonder how the road course gets set. Im sure it doesnt really matter because a bad day at the track is better then any day at work. Hopefully jan-feb i can join u at sebring, its a bucket list track 4 me
Ha! I don't know if I'll make Sebring in that time frame, long story short we had some lay offs last week and brings my dept down to 1/3 of what it was in 2020 (we're at 5 total layoffs in the last 3yrs vs 0 in my first 10) so I'll be out more... think this last Christmas will be the last I celebrate whilst being home for the rest of the time doing contract work. I've done a couple track days over the years, BMW Driving experiences and Lexus corporate events so hopefully it will be fun and the instructor won't fear for his life. Think there's a Sebring event in December, not too sure but if I'm home and some of you all make it... I'll make the trip.
Right now I have about 3 people including myself going. I know there's an event the weekend before and it will be packed, hence me picking the first weekend of November. It also gives me time to get the suspension completed, I'll probably start getting a real head count in August. My schedule is weird as I'm on vacation for 4 months before I head back to a floating prison of bullsh!t but would like to get some of the Rennlist 996 guys out there. Part of owning a Porsche is getting the hat, polo and doing hoodrat stuff with P-car community... I have two of those so looking to do hoodrat things with my friends.
Keep us updated. I retire at the end of the week and move back home, which is about 2 hrs from the Tail of the Dragon. There is another road within about 20 miles of the Dragon, the Cherohalla Skyway that is a fantastic road for the drive and the views. It is well worth the drive.
Absolutely and if I can't get more cars to go, I'd still like to go anyway even if it's solo. I would definitely like to check out the Skyway as well! Since I'm coming from Miami and saw two routes, one being a couple hours longer but it avoided Atlanta and that is what I might do.
The best way I have found to get thru Atlanta is to go straight thru on I-75 in the middle of the night. I always try to arrange my travels to go thru major cities during the hrs of 12-5am to avoid the traffic. it works surprisingly well.
Since I've never gone I really don't have much of a preference, It'll probably depend on how many people are planning to show up locally and I'm pretty flexible since I don't really have to be anywhere that week.
I had to go up that way to pick up my Teq cage in Marietta, think it took me 8hrs and left Miami at midnight. The roads are just garbage and the construction was unbearable which says a lot since I live in a major city so I'm used to it, just found that portion aggravating in the Touareg. The VW was getting around 30mpg at about 80mph the whole way, only had to stop 3 times and I think I'll be stopping more often in the Porsche.
The Porsche gods have smiled on me today, after creeping on the GT3 console thread... Gert from Carnewal posted that he had some in stock. With
@yaz996
new hazard mount phone holder, the center console will be removed and the GT3 delete installed in it's place. My dumbass waited too long and I was eyeballing that piece since 2020. Can't freaking wait now!
Nice! The GT3 console delete is one of my favorite mods I did to my car. I don�t know how anyone who says the 996 interior doesn�t look like a classic 911 can argue that after seeing a console deleted car. Hopefully, seeing mine in person had some influence on you!
Finally got around to adding a couple items to my weapons inventory. Being that you can't get Russian firearms anymore, I don't shoot my Saiga 12 so I found a cheap Chinese copy that runs remarkably well and it runs Buck, Slugs and Light loads with an adjustable gas block. It's an SDS Lynx and can be had for less than 350.00, maybe something to consider especially since it runs lighter ammo and mags are 15.00 ea. The other is a Sig Rattler in 300blk with a 5.5" barrel. I'm not a Sig fan, Sig USA isn't the same as Sig Swiss or Sig Germany which are the OGs. They have a bad habit of releasing things haphazardly and then having to recall them... they use us as their Beta testers. In the case of the MCX, they improved on them so much that the latest version is not reverse compatible with the Gen1 model. Anyway it'll stay a pistol as it will be my drunk gun, you can drive state to state with a suppressor as long it's legal in that state without any NFA approval... just have your stamp with you.
Here's what a bone stock Rattler looks like:
This is what it'll look like when it's done but with the pistol brace, you can't travel with a SBR state to state without ATF approval. More than likely use a handguard wrap and maybe an index point in the form of a hand stop or angled fore grip. Shamelessly taken from Garand Thumb's FB page, he dubbed it the M13 which is pretty cool I guess.
.
Small update on the 380mm brake kit. I wasn't 100% sure they'd fit behind the OZs and was lucky enough to find this nugget.
I know those are on a 997 but the wheels are relevant to my particular 996. Found this on the internet so whoever owns it... I'll be more than happy to include your name as owner. Ive been buying bolts, seals, and shims for the install which I'm still hoping to do next year. All that's missing are the rear calipers, rotors, pads and 997 master cylinder... damned near everything actually.
The interesting thing is I can get a set of BBS LMs for a tad less than $4800 and pay the extra for the matte center. The OZs are extremely light and oddly enough the GT3 rear spec are NLA on TireRack so I'd probably never get rid of the OZs now. The CCWs are beautiful and can had pretty much whenever and if I can find as set of TE37s in GT3 sizes... I'll be all over them. Just don't want to get too into wheels like I did back in my Honda and Nissan days. At one point, I'm ashamed to admit this now, I had set of Mugen MR5, TE37s, Spoon SWs and Gram Lights for my slow assed 93 Civic Hatch. During the Z era (and living with my parents) that car had TE37s in custom HKS purple, Works VSXX, BBS LMs and Enkei RPF1... don't want to go down that trail with the Porsche but it's so hard not to.
Hard not to go down the trail, indeed.
Thinking about the stuff I want to do sounds so reasonable until you add up what it would cost and it's like $20k.
Amen. After 20 years I still haven't done anything with wheels and aero. Every time I look at the cost, I decide to spend the money on engine upgrades, suspension or exhaust. Once again, this year is engine, next year is suspension and more engine. 2024 is exhaust and more engine. Maybe 2025 is wheels and aero. But the good news is I have a n other 30 years to figure it out.
My buddy who�s heavy in S chassis Nissans keeps sending Yahoo Japan ads for TE37s but all widebody fitment. I told him if he sent me another link with the wrong fitment� I was going to murder him.
I had a set of silver Mugen RNR�s on my Fit. 9.5 lbs. per wheel, just amazing what they did for the responsiveness of the suspension. I had to source them from Japan because all I could find in the US were white ones.
I loved those cars, it's a shame Honda stopped making them. Real RNR's were such a clean and rare wheel in the world of knockoffs... crazy how the prices have exploded(much like our cars). I sold my MR5s locally to kid with a EF Civic, his parents wanted to surprise him and his brother was an acquaintance of mine so the price was good at 3600.00 with all the lug covers. Miss those days and would love to get an EG again but it's pretty much a reality that it would get stolen.
Man I wonder if a set of Work Brombachers would work with the 380mm brakes? Price seems about right. Only thing I'd do is paint/powder coat the centers Guards Red, that would be another $400... shipping was 190.00 as well.
I bought a bunch of parts from HKS USA when they closed their doors the first time, most of the stuff on my Z came from test mules so getting parts took a lot of emails to HKS Japan and google translate. I know it's not everyone's taste but the car was complete. All authentic parts and all real JDM at a time where bootleg stuff ruled.
Those were legit TEs and I had 6 total, spare front and a rear. 19x10.5+12 and 19x9.5+12 with Zeals... no rubbing at all. At the time you couldn't easily get ASM Recaros and there were only 5 sets in the US when I had them. I made money when parting that car out. Good times.
Does it weigh 2200 lbs., does it have a motor used in several formula car series, can it swallow a 55” TV or a reclining chair, does it handle almost as good as a 1960’s Mini? Because that’s what my first gen Honda Fit did. I loved that car. It got hailed on and totaled.
I've never driven one BUT I did sit in the back of a Volvo Wagon which had a rear facing seat... very good times.
Ha my Yaris was kinda the same way, fit the Kirk racing cage and all the TEs to get painted at the same time... the bodyshop people were impressed. The GR Corolla is a 5 door hatch with a turbo 4 cylinder, 6 speed manual and AWD.
Thanks brother and I'll hold out until I get what I really really want.
Oh I don't doubt them being heavy and would only get these because I've always wanted a set.
Some of the convos on the GT3 short shifter thread got me thinking of doing some tinkering with shifter consoles before I inevitably end up with the Numeric.
@swc99
on the 997 side of the house was nice enough to sell me a stock 997 shifter and here's my plan... for science:
I'm looking for something that I can run on the street and light track days. Numeric and CAE are considered the best, CAE being more of a true race set up. I'd never heard of the Function First's Shift Right kit until
@Capt. Obvious
mentioned it in the thread mentioned earlier, so my plan is to use the 997 shifter mech, Shift Right kit and Numeric cables. The car came with a B&M and it's ok for the most part except for third gear, there's a resistance going into gear but no grinding. Best example would be shooting, a little take up on the trigger until you break the "wall"(overcoming the disconnector) and complete the pull. The previous owner said this happened when he changed to semi solid engine mounts, not sure if that's really the case but at some point I'll look at replacing all the mounts.
If I don't like that the 997, I'll just get the Numeric and be done with it... probably sell the 997 set up for just the price of parts. At worst we can discuss the different play characteristics of the B&M 996 unit - OEM 997 unit - 997 w/Shift Right and Numeric.
You could add another step along the way and install the bushing from Phenix.
https://www.phenixengineering.com/pr...ft-bushing-kit
That's what I'm running now. I missed Function First's black friday sale, so figured at a minimum the bushings could hold me over for this year, and it'd be a wash cost wise with another point of comparison.
I was looking at the instructions on the Shift Right and you'll have to shim them which makes me believe it'll be "tighter" than the Phoenix. Either way once I cut the bushings out, I'll need one anyway.
Just an idea, I think we're going to see more people willing to add or in this case remove things with the newer crowd of 996 owners. Might as well save some people money by having adult discussions about upgrades.
I did the ShiftRight kit. The end bushings are very cleverly designed and adjustable. It's a bit of a shame they need the shim wrapped around them but I believe it lets him sell the same kit for a wider variety of vehicles. The shim works fine and makes for a very secure fit but it's a bit, what do they say on Top Gear, "fiddly".
Interestingly enough the Phoenix kit comes with a different end bushing design so I�m thinking I�ll keep whichever has a better fit. I did find a TechArt short shift kit on EBay for 800.00 USD or so� that won�t make it to my test group.
For reference, here's the ShiftRight installed in my car. I have a B&M unit that I modified to make work with this.
To make the B&M work, I had to "machine" down the ball to match the size of the factory shifter end. It seems to work just fine.
Also, B&M made a knock-off of the TechArt shifter, part number 45181.
Oh that's awesome, did you happen to try the FF without the B&M? I'll look up the B&M TechArt knock off and see what I can find. Did you happen to know how much you took off? Did a quick search and B&M doesn't list them anymore even though Titan shows them in stock, I had no idea our regular B&M kit is 412.95 MSRP.
I did not try it without the B&M, I didn't have any factory shifters laying around so I just went to town on the B&M figuring I'd just get another one if I screwed it up.
I have a similar issue to you on my Turbo, but it's 4th gear that won't let me in sometimes (never grinds, just feels like it doesn't want to let me in). I'm going to go back to OEM fluid in the tranny and try new shifter cables next as I'm not convinced it's an internal issue with the tranny.
What fluid do you have now? I swapped out to Driven 75W90 and the old oil was pretty clean so like you I believe it's not internal. Do you have solid or semi solid mounts? Hopefully the Numeric cables help tame that hesitation out of the shift.
I have Amsoil in it currently, which replaced what I assume was factory fluid with unknown mileage (possibly the original fill, since I have no records of a tranny flush in the receipts I got with the car). Assuming it was 100k mile original fluid, it was very clean for that many years/miles.
Interesting. Roger Brown at California Motorsports suggested Motul 300LS as the best choice for the G50 gearbox, with Amsoil Severe Gear + a limited slip additive as a second choice. I do think the OEM Porsche stuff is "softer" on the syncros though.
I just put Official Overly Expensive Porsche Colored Porsche Branded Porsche Approved transaxle oil in my car. Haven't driven it yet because I was doing the string alignment and Friday the 13th happened to me. Hopefully tomorrow. Generally speaking though, this shifter is crap. I mean, really, how much should I have to spend to make a fancy car like this find its gears.
My Z had a great system, solid and had a Hebi Bebi weighted shifter. Twin plate clutch from Carbonetics was a pain in my *** though. The B&M on the Porsche isn�t bad at all, it�s just like Capt Obvious mentioned� just a tad of resistance going into certain gear.
Those look super sick Joel! Are the centercaps from Rennline? I was looking at those on their website for my Fikse's. Didn't know if they would look good on Fikse's or not.
I reached out to one of those FS ads on 6Speed and a dude responded immediately, they're actually called "Gemballa Racing Wheel"... pretentious enough? I felt like an idiot asking because in my mind I was thinking there's no way that Gemballa would just name it "Racing Wheel".
They are all from Gemballa from what I understand.
I can�t find a lot of info on them but it does make sense that they�re spec�d for a 993. The barrels are 40 bolt assemblies and OZ Modulars from that era were also, wouldn�t be surprised if they were made by OZ for Gemballa but I have no clue. To be fair a Work VSXX has the same assembly pattern but find it strange they�d be making them for Gemballa in the mid 2000s. There are two variations, stepped lip and standard lip. Might be contradicting myself but the non step lip have very similar look to a VSXX� sooo I�ll have to start sending emails once I get home and really inspect them. They were definitely not on the 2022 build schedule so these might have to wait to be refinished and installed in 2023.
Hey out of all the crazy gum-ball-a stuff I've ever seen this is fairly straightforward. What is the story with the center caps? Just aesthetics to look like center-lock?
Rennline and FVD sell those center caps to look like faux center lock wheels, the 5 holes around them make it pretty damned obvious they're not but that does mean I can get a set or two in case they break or get stolen.
I sent Gemballa an email looking for some info but almost certain they won't chime in, then hit up RMC Miami as they do deal with some Kremer, Dp and Gemballa cars so they know a thing or two. They said they're legit but no clue what hell they were called. Direct quote; "Gemballa rebranded a whole lotta wheels..." and agrees with the fact that they might actually be Work Brombachers.
@work_truck
you win some coffee on me as they're indeed not the Gemballa Racing wheel. Pretty much ended up with wheels I wanted...thinking they were something else but wasn't sure they were going to fit around the brakes. The consensus was they are rare and could be 1 of X wheels in that size. Still think they're sweet but might have to sell them IF they don't fit.
I look for random things all over the interwebz and recently because of all the F1 buzz in Miami, started looking for old Miami Grand Prix or Grand Prix of Miami posters for my office or garage. In that search, I'm looking for 3 posters specifically because the winner was a Porsche car.
1. 1985 L�wenbr�u Grand Prix of Miami : Holbert Racing Porsche 962 - IMSA
2. 1986 L�wenbr�u Grand Prix of Miami : Bayside Leven Racing 962 - IMSA
3. 1998 Grand Prix of Miami : Dyson Racing 962 - IMSA
There are some Grand AM wins from 2003 - 2009 but I'd like the IMSA or the McLaren Malboro MP4/1E-3 of that era as well. I managed to find a mint 1986 L�wenbr�u poster that's already framed and on the hunt for a 1988 Victory Showroom poster. With any luck, I can get the 1985 GP especially since it was a Coca-Cola sponsored event and I collect vintage Coke items.
hey bud, have you tried the Motorsport collector in Illinois. I was just there last week and bought way to much stuff but he would be a good place to start
I'll check them out now that you mentioned them. Didn't realize there was a market for this, I bought a limited edition Miami F1 poster that was limited to 2022 prints for around $70 shipped. At the time I thought it was a lot and when it arrived at my GFs house... she thought it was beautiful but surprisingly didn't see an issue with the price. They're selling for 275.00 - 350.00 on eBay and Mercari, guess there's a buyer for anything.
Thanks brother and two more to go, the 1985 poster is going to be the most expensive solely because it was a Coca Cola sponsored event. Coca Cola antique collectors grab these up so I've seen varying prices, all within reach so at least there's that.
Well guys it looks like we'll need to update the Dragon timeframe. I'm getting extended to the end of October now and hopefully that's the only extension I'll be making. So with all that said, I'm aiming for the for the first weekend of December unless the weather is trash in that area at that time. Any advice from the guys live in the area?
On a lighter note I found the last poster I needed for the garage. Found the official poster from 1985 and the Coca Cola poster is the Promotional poster, had no idea there was a difference.
After looking through the parts I have, these are the ones I'm missing:
Camber Plate set (F) = Tarett($450) - OEM(425)Inner Control Arm Mono set = DSM(480)
LCA shims = N/A
Almost at the finish line with the parts I need and I might as well buy rear LCAs as well but don't think they need to be adjustable.
Got around to buying a set of Demon Speed branded LCA inners and also bought the Shift Right kit along with a 997 alignment tool. Once I get the shims, I'll have all the parts needed for the LCAs. Probably looking to start with these widths for shims with Aaron recommending extra sets of 10mm if I want to go past 1 degree of camber:
4x1mm
4x3mm
2x6mm
2x10mm
Starting to get pretty excited now that I'm half way through this deployment and have most of the parts I'll need to lower the car, should have that done the first week I'm home.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1920x1200/2_days_later_1_c6cf6230a7d6abb211014cadc08c175f33f76b03.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/img_3237_c674289a0b6ec72f74b90e8a395b89da77d13289.jpeg
I have to laugh a little bit, because I know this exact feeling of ordering thousands of dollars of car parts while on deployment. You�ll be home soon, brother!
Worst part about all of that is not buying all the parts in one shot! I'm sprinkling in some purchases over the 6 months so it's not a burden on my girlfriend. Big heavy parts go to my buddy's shop in Cutler Bay but he's also running a business and I'm not really trying to abuse that privilege.
I can go pick up all your parts today if you want. I�m right around the corner. I�ll even install them on my car first so I can give you feedback on the performance.
Welp... it seems like I'm going to end up having a proper suspension after all. After window shopping on our forum's marketplace and looking for GT3 strut mounts, ended up with an Ohlins suspension with Tarett mounts. Plan is to keep the OEM GT3 suspension and have a back up if I never needed to send the Ohlins for repair. Good thing I have all the other parts for the conversion... I'm extremely excited and now have to figure out if the Cargrahic air cup kit works on the Ohlins set up. Stole this photo from the Marketplace add.
Unrelated to the suspension, I need some help tying to figure out WTF is up with some of the top bumper vents on some of these GT3 bumpers. I follow a lot of GT3 guys on IG, most of them are really nice and like my weirdo taste even though they'd never do some of things I'm planning on doing. With that said, Im looking to cut in bumper vents on my GT3 bumper. Why you ask? I'm doing the 3rd radiator and honestly like the way it looks, the Ducktail is vents so the bumper should be too right? BasicSportsCar on IG sent me some measurements but the edges of the outermost vents taper and obviously the vent sizes are not that of the Cup. What version of bumper is that?
TheKingMezger sent me this front shot and his is a real deal cup bumper.
If I can get the dimensions right and have them cut in correctly by my body guy, I was considering producing stick on templates for those who want to do something similar. I found a thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...per-vents.html
What do you guys think? Juice worth the squeeze? I need to redo my front bumper anyway because it looks like Helen Keller tried matching the paint and the worst part is the local Porsche body shop did the work and it drives me insane.
From a practicality standpoint, it will facilitate more down force if you take all the steps to set it up. From a visual standpoint it seems to modernize the look of the 996.2 since the newer 911s have all kinds of vents, ducts and stuff.
Personally I like it and will eventually go in the same direction as what you are thinking for the practical and visual benefits.
I'm hoping to get the correct ducting, Justin did the conversion and I'll see it first hand in Dec assuming we get the Dragon run done. After seeing Jason's turbo front end and deepening how the vent conversion goes, there's a tiny chance I'll get a turbo bumper for DE events and just swap them. I know there are parts I'll have to remove but GT3 stuff is getting expensive and having multiple GT3 bumpers seems wasteful.
I just would like the measurements of the vents, distance between the vents and distance below hood.
The only thing i worry about is edges of the holes are rounded versus just a straight cut. I like the smooth look and not sure how that would accomplished with cutting versus manufactured. That's just me being a picky person..
In the past, on other projects that required some modification to plastic bumpers, I made a paper template then had a sign company use it to create a cad cut vinyl template, weeded out the areas that I wanted to remove from the bumper, and then used transfer tape to apply it to the bumper surface to serve as a guide. Then I cut out the shapes carefully allowing for final shaping up to the corners. I also used a cheap compass to delineate the amount of bevel to the openings to keep everything symmetrical and beveled the cuts along with some final sanding to smooth the transition from the surface to the opening. The hardest part was creating register marks on both the vinyl and bumper and then placing the vinyl on the register marks on the bumper....which is why I had several vinyl templates made. Just go slow and take your time.....
Ok that is essentially what I was looking to do but if you have the ability to produce the vinyl templates, I'd be interested in purchasing some. Also I've seen cars with the tapered ends and rectangular slots, which version of those openings existed on what cars?
Ok will do. If anything I was thinking of cutting the vents out of the vinyl templates and laying the vinyl on top of blue or green painters tape and doing it that way since the painters tape is easier to navigate.
Welp, if you find a design opening that you like and can take a rub, that is placing a paper on the opening and then running a crayon or chalk to around the opening to delineate the shapes ....a common practice used by renaissance artists and then give it to a sign shop who has somebody with a minimum of talent to scan or copy the pattern or even a photo or jpeg to create a vector file or half of your image then have them scale and mirror the other side to make it symmetric....fat city dude. In fact, at this point, one can enlarge or design any shape. The idea of using vinyl was to create a shield to protect the surfaces....which is what a clear bra is made from. .
The Function First kit arrived at my girlfriend's house via Flat 6 Motorsports last week, also ordered a 997 adjustment "tool" and the ends coming into the console. Still thinking of just getting their shifter cable ends since I'll be under the car anyway, cry once buy once at 150.00.
http://www.function-first.com/produc...ter-cable-ends
The Ohlins arrived at my buddy's shop and he said they're in fantastic condition,
@De Jeeper
and
@Justin76
recommended I get them inspected and for as much has I want to slap everything in the car... they're right so to 3DM they'll be going. Both Aarons and Jason(DeJeeper and
@theprf
) have been extremely helpful and patient in getting me to understand the parts I needed which wasn't a lot or less than I thought. I guess at this point the car will have a GT3-ish suspension even though that phrase is pretty much trade marked by Aaron.
When I get home, I'll be clear coating the ducktail and while I have the ducktail off... I'm looking at maybe redoing the mesh openings with something a little more modern. SafariProjek on IG had some grills made for one of their cars and it looks like this(Stolen from their IG page):
I have regular mesh up top and left the back vents open. Now a buddy of mine does a lot of 3D modeling and you can get things printed in various metals. Now there are two set ups that I really thought would look cool, a horizontal louver or a normal crosshatch pattern. Here's what I was thinking and I apologize as it looks like a 3yr old used a crayon to illustrate what I'm trying to do.
Any advice? I sent the idea to my buddy and he said it's very doable.
My buddy in the 3D modeling world is going to work with me but I have to make the attempt to model which I will be doing through Fusion software. This might end up being a long term project and probably won't happen this time around when getting home since I'll have a little less than 3 months before heading out again. Instead of going horizontal in pattern, think 9xxTeile has a better approach on their wing:
https://www.9xxteile.com/en/engine-l...-c4-acc961003p
I'd like a smaller square hex design vs their rectangle but it appeals to me a little more. Yaz sent me a pic of the Singer style opening vents and they're freaking gorgeous so there are other options as well. Should be dropping off the Ducktail to get clear coated right after the Dragon run in December.
Some other updates. Just ordered a BBi seat base and slider kit for a Racetech RT4100TW seat that will be ordered a week or so before leaving back to the US. Really really wanted Recaro SPG XLs but don't think the new updated ones will be available very quickly once they begin selling again. If it's good enough for OEM Cup Cars... it's good enough for me. For now only the driver's seat will be set up, without a harness (Willans more than likely) and need to find the resistor set up to not get the airbag light. Overall didn't do much this year because the work schedule sucked but the little that will be done will keep me motivated.
Learned something new on accident yesterday and started gathering the necessary parts to complete the steering wheel project. I really liked the 964/968 Cup Steering wheel but they were made by Atwie which are 3 bolt patterned and out of business. So if you want it to fit our 996s you'll need to do one of two things.
1 - Buy a Atwie 1729X hub - *Reuses factory horn ring*
2 - Buy a Momo Adapter ring from ThePaddock.xyz
The wheel looks like this:
Plan would be to get both hubs to see which is a better fit. I'd prefer a WorksBell QD but I'm going to see how hard it's going to be for me to get out of the racing seat before I invest into that system. There are still quite a few of those wheels around and depending on the iteration, it'll have the embossed logo or the color version which I believe were pre 964 models and impossible to find new. Only thing I'd like is for the wheel to be redone in suede and red stitching.
I used this hex mesh on my car for my front and rear grills. It matches the engine covers on the Carrera GT, and what is used on the newer GT cars (like the new GT3 RS). You could make a buck out of wood to mold them to have a more finished look to them in those vents.
https://www.customcargrills.com/prod...?prod=Perf-Hex
Sooooo I’m easily side tracked and have lots of time to scour the Marketplace… ended up with a set of TE37s! They’re in some nice sizes at 18x8.5 + 50 and 18x11 +60 but they’re black in color. Good chance they’ll be redone in red, ala GT3RS style. No idea when I’ll have time to get these done and PayPal is being a Royal in the *** to the seller so it’ll take a while for them to be in my possession. Here’s a pic from the F/S ad.
Next is the steering wheel. Picked up a black leather variant from Suncoast and on the way to Rod at Classic9 Leather shop to be rewrapped in suede. For now I’m leaving the horn cover in leather because the embossed crest is classy. If it looks wonky, I’ll get a colored crest and cover the pad in suede… it’ll look like the OG 930S style.
Can’t wait to get this damned deployment over with. Should be getting some of the items installed the first couple weeks I’m home. Outside of the Dragon run, there isn’t much time for extras.
I'll be interested to follow this. I'm thinking of doing the same with my Savannah Beige wheel with black alcantara wrap. I'm currently thinking of leaving the horn pad beige with the black wrap and a 12 o'clock stripe in a color from the tartan I'm using for the seat inserts. I don't know if the contrast is going to be too much, or just right. One way to find out, I guess.
Everything with Paypal has been resolved and payment on the TEs is complete. It's really amazing how small this world is, I usually try to look up seller's history whenever making expensive purchases. Found the seller sold a set of white TE37s in WB sizes to someone I follow on IG. Reached out to him to ask how his buying experience was and he said it was a pleasant one, very happy about that. With all that said, TE of that build came with flat center caps and I believe they were a convex style but not fully flat if that makes sense. Found that Volks produces various types of caps now mainly because they expanded the TE line up. Found this set and I'm pretty sure that's what I'll be going with:
Volk Racing ZE40/TE37 Ultra Gloss Black Standard Center Cap | WCZE40ULT9 (vividracing.com)
After looking at some pics Slate cars and black wheels, they will stay black for now and might make their way on the car just in time for the Dragon in December.
Added another Porsche to the collection� as a watch. Got a pretty good deal on a working Porsche Design 7176 by Orfina. These have been rereleased and numbered models are available for around $9k. Vintage models can be found at or below $3k, mine needed some TLC but not bad by any stretch as it predates me by maybe 5-7yrs. Butzi himself designed this watch with Orfina(Top Gun watch) and is credited as being the first black out style watch. It�s cool to know that the same person who designed the timeless silhouette of my car, also designed my watch.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/8391c646_7c8d_4c3d_b9d6_d64a0b477045_80b5076991325bd0ebb5a45aabfe1115ef8ea220.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/8ee8afa5_f308_4226_9e02_12e0914d54aa_8f49a5b8d0e4352ec25529b6f598c6c448d17bb4.jpeg
Most were bought before my 911 now it gets all my money lol
my display is not for boasting I loved watches before cars but my relationship in cars has now taken over by far
and they are Porsches
No need to explain, pretty sure they're just busting our *****.
I'm a weirdo and like mechanical things, my other hobby is firearms which consists of mostly collectables. History, design philosophy and operation of things is something I enjoy.
You're not a weirdo, I am the same way. I love good engineering regardless of what it is, and I've got a soft spot for German engineering in particular. I love my HKs and Walthers. I have also always wanted a Black Forest Cuckoo clock, my Aunt and Uncle have one and it is just incredible. I love the watch! Someday I will pick one up myself.
My step mom�s family is German and her mom had a higher end Clock� the engravings were absolutely insane. As for Walther�s, one of my favorite pistols is a Walther Q4 SF. Their steel frames pistols are absolute masterpieces.
Interior update. Got me a GT3 Suede shift **** from LA Dismantler. BFI will be who will make the shift boot. The interior of my car is going to ne different and this is the shift ****. Also looking to add weighted inserts in the shiftknob.
My Porsche Design ZPT Gold #525 Chronograph Watch was stolen from my house on last Easter Sunday..
43mm all black face and band, with just a touch of Gold lettering. made by Eterna .. Was a gift from Porsche for becoming a Gold Meister Tech.. So if anyone see's a ZPT Gold that is not on a Techs wrist.. let me know !!
Thanks !! It will pop up somewhere someday .. They are Limited Edition and have "ZPT" in gold on the face, and has my name printed on the original box.... I would love to get it back, it has sentimental value beyond its monetary value..
Welp� LA Dismantler didn�t have the **** so I�ve been refunded. I did find a suede Cayman **** with a sliver cap for a lot less. Plan would be to paint the cap a darker color and call it a day. If you order something from LAD, call in advance.
That’s sad that your watch was stolen I get the sentimental connection I will also keep an eye out as I’m always looking at Porsche watches I’m still looking for a gold worldtimer
Thanks, yes please keep a look out for it, I'm sure it has/will get traded for drugs and will eventually show up on the market..
If it gets traced back to who I think stole it, I will press charges and he will give restitution in Prison...
I really should take you up on that, the Police have done nothing to investigate him
He broke open my safe and got my cash stash, a Pistol , and had a pillow case with all my jewelry,watches and coins, the title to my Porsche in it and two duffel bags loaded with air tools, digital torque wrenches, testers ect. in it .. Obviously I came home and surprised him and he fled out the back door with only the cash,pistol and Porsche watch...I knew something was wrong when I hit the garage door opener and pulled in the basement and saw a duffel bag full of my tools laying in the basement floor !!
You'd think so, but the Cops are just waiting for the case to fall into their laps, They aren't interested in doing any real work to investigate..The Pistol was an American Arms and they have the serial number, they are just waiting for the serial number to show up somewhere...possibly in a crime of some sorts.. There is a National Data Base for Pistols...
Just realized I can't update the original post so here are the purchased upgrades that I'll begin to install in a couple of weeks.
Interior:
964 Cup Steering wheel(still at Classic9)
987 Suede shift **** w/BFI black suede and red stitch(ended up getting this from Suncoast)
Kicker 43DSC404 4" speakers for the dash and rear quarter areas
CAI 4" fitment kit
4x OEM black plastic speaker covers
GT3 console delete
Yaz's phone mount
Rennkit BTR-3 (bluetooth retro kit for MOST systems - Blaunkput Bremen will be a future upgrade)
Leather sun visors
Suspension:
Send Ohlins to get rebuilt.
Catalogue all the Tarett suspension components and make sure I'm not missing anything.
Transmission:
Inspect the trans mount
Install Shift Right kit into 997 housing - do some other variations and discuss pros/cons, maybe install the B&M into that kit as well.
No exterior upgrades planned as I'm still waiting for word on RPM Technik's carbon hood and maybe... just maybe their carbon bumper. I do have part numbers for a PMNA Cup bumper and they're available so I'm still on the fence. The TEs will be on their way the same week I step foot on American soil(Best there is might I add) and along with the Gemballas; be cleaned up, polished and ceramic coated. Slight chance the TEs will make their way on the car to replace the OZs but was hoping I'd be done with the suspension and that doesn't seem like it'll happen before January. If that ends up being the case, I'll order the air cup kit for the Ohlins via Cargraphic and that'll be part of next year's complete suspension refresh.
Figured I'd concentrate more on the interior since I'll be doing a lot of driving for The Dragon in December. Really don't listen to the radio too much but would like that option for that drive, mostly listen to sports talk radio or nothing at all. The Kicker speakers are mid level but reviewed well, originally planned on JLs but realized that with my tinnitus... I probably won't be able to tell the difference anyway. Should be able to track my car one time this time around at Homestead Motor Speedway by way of Chin Motorsports. Pretty excited for the planned upgrades and even more excited to be doing the work. This deployment has been dragging and I'm mentally checked out, Really looking forward to spending my 40th bday at home and helping around my girl's house... the "Honey Do List" is long but she's the best and it's the least I can do after not being home to help with Coco's passing. Hope to see you all at the Dragon and I'll be updating the thread once I get pics and once I physically start installing things.
I got the replacement sun visor covers that actuate the mirror illumination off eBay. They've got a metal pin and went on click click.
I did the FF shift right on my 996 shifter and it's still much better. I replaced the shifter cable cabin ends at the same time, the fore aft was almost destroyed from the years of use. I still need to do the transmission side ends.
I splurged on a raceseng stratose red and black wrapped in alcantara or suede.
I went with 4 CAI speakers, the cheaper audison prima 2 ways. the originals, especially the dash, had crumbling surrounds. They sound pretty great IMHO.
I still have that suspension work to do and get the coffin arms replaced. I'm going to get it done before Dragon or die trying from eating ramen 🍜
Share pics of the interior when you get it all together!
What's in the box?! Boot and other suede pieces came from j f customs via eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23230899227...mis&media=COPY
Installed. Note the German flag theme I've got going on. Not seen are black with red and yellow stitched seat belt clip wraps and a German flag wrap on the rear view mirror. Oh and matching armrest cover and handbrake cover. So childish and indulgent I know.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/364x200/200_6faaa1a4582ea6518631cb4a796c27b29ee67c90.gif
I see on the j f customs ebay page a mention of possible additional charges due to customs - did you have any additional charges added due to US (or other) Customs?
-Tom
Made it home! Got everything minus the Gemballas and TE�s.
I�ll be picking up the wheels and will starting the interior projects this week. My �Honey do List� is pretty short, built a bunch of stuff the day I got home so there was less to do. I did run into two things in my house though, roof leak and termite droppings. So.. that sucks but everything else is fantastic.
Started driving the car, really missed it and love it� felt amazing to stretch its legs. Made it to Home Depot and had to snap a pic for you guys, proof of life so to speak. More to come.
Welcome home. I am your post-deployment Porsche social worker dude, so repeat after me, “Drive, wrench, drive, wrench, clean car, party when I have spare time.”-ha! You can sleep when you’re dead!
What lower control arms are those? Obviously GT3 style but I thought they were NLA? sorry just can't quite make out the part number on.
Ohlins look awesome!
They�re from a 997.1 and work with our cars, best of all they�re forged. Got mine from Demon Motorsports.
My sleep schedule is usually messed up when I�m home so I�ll be getting most of the upgrades done here soon.
Thanks! Yeah definitely need to get the radio stuff done because that�s a long *** drive to the dragon without some form of music.
Better late than never...
Your wheels are almost definitely Cargraphic 3 piece items. I had them fitted to my 993 RS back in 2003/4/5. I'd suggest the use of those Gemballa stickers explain all ...
Though Gemballa did have his own wheels manufactured though, I had a set of one piece 18" 964 Cup lookalikes on my 964.
The early Cargraphic 3 piece wheels had some cracking issues with the spokes, but they addressed the problem and replaced them FOC IIRC. You wheels should feature aluminium alloy outer rim sections, and thus they should be light, Cargraphic eventually offered a stainless outer rim section that looked a million dollars and was free from any corrosion issues, but weighed a ton. The rear wheels on my 993 RS had the stainless steel items, and as can be seen, they were alot shinier than the older aluminium alloy items on the front wheels :
Started some upgrades today, just the Shift Right kit and the GT3 delete.
First impressions of the kit, the parts are very cleanly machined and the kit is of high quality. The instructions online were straight forward and you�ll spend more time removing the center console than installing the retrofit kit and upgrading the entire assembly. My 997 module did not require shims to install.
Side by side with the B&M-
Driving Impressions:
I find that this kit feels like OEM +, not overly aggressive but has positive feel and not terribly short. It has zero slop which I noticed right away. To be fair, I�ve never driven a 996 with a stock shifter and onIy a 997, it feels fantastic in comparison. The throws are nice and probably won�t add the B&M to the Shift Right for the sake of anything shorter.
Next upgrade was the GT3 console delete, it was a straight forward install so there�s not really much to say in that respect. It really does clean up the look of the interior, makes it look less busy to me but to be fair I do like our interiors too. The Teq cage makes you sit upright and in my case removing the center console gave me more room BUT I�m not tall by any stretch and my leg would just lean on the pad otherwise, not a big deal either way.
Next will be Yaz�s mount and the Rennkit Bluetooth upgrade� maybe the speakers.
Looks great brother!! I go back and forth on the GT3 console delete. I like the extra storage bin right now, but I see how it would offer a lot more leg room to the interior. Does look cleaner also. With your shifter upgrade, did you use the 997 factory shifter and then install all the metal components into that? I believe my car currently has the 997 shifter in it, but it hasn't been modified at all. Also, are you still current the stock shifter cables??
Nice job! I've been considering this mod but have been very happy with my 997 SSK set up that's been in there. Feels notchy and direct but damped, probably due to the plastic pieces. Might need to try it if I can make it to the dragon!
The only mod done to my sun visors / vanity mirrors was too replace the covers with items from eBay that have metal hinge pins and when opened they illuminate. So do you mean a pic of that thing? Or did you mean the rear view mirror flag wrap? You can see it if you zoom in on this photo
Nice choice of shifter upgrade. My mechanic drive my car before the shift right and then after and he noticed it, asked me if I had changed it out and with what. Mind you, my stock shifter was original. The new parts are Perfecto. I didn't do a short shifter, not really interested. I take it easy on my Synchromesh...
I�m very happy with the change, just a personal preferences I guess. Waiting for Black Forest to resend a shift boot for my 997 swap. Added some weights in the shift **** today.
Since this thread has a lot of pics, I was able to pick up the Gemballas from my buddy yesterday.
Finally got the TE37s and man� extremely hyped. One wheel has some paint chipping on the lip but overall clean.
18x8.5 = 18.8lbs
18x11 = 20.7lbs
They�re very very nice wheels all the way around and love the fact they�re the OG style which look nicer in my opinion. These are my 6th set over the years.
Since I had the scale out, I weighed the Gemballas� they�re a little chunky.
18x9 = 23.3lbs
18x11 = 26.8lbs
Finally got a chance to really look at them and they have �Made in Germany� stamped on the inner faces so they�re indeed Cargraphics made for Gemballa.
I�m trying to knock out two projects at once and taking a break from the Honey Do List. Aside from putting up a separate home security camera system, I�m in the process of lifting my Touareg and finishing up the speaker upgrade.
I bought a set of speaker deletes from Suncoast at $55 a set for the speaker conversion and they are prefect candidates for the CAI inserts. Only thing you need to do is cut the inner cover off.
Once that�s done, you�ll need to fit the adapter which is a stepped ring with the smaller diameter fitting inside the opening and the larger diameter sitting at the cut spot. Then with the supplied hardware, you�ll drill through the speaker lip and the ring� then securing it with an Allen screw. Here is the finished result.
Next step is to cut the tabs off the speaker itself and they have to be completely off to fit inside the ring� tolerances are tight. I can�t find my damned Dremel and it�s almost 0120 here so the project is on hold until tomorrow morning. Once the remnants of the tabs are 100% off, you glue the speaker to the ring and you�re done. CAI�s kit will come with:
Adapter ring
Drill bit
8 Allen head screws
Allen wrench
Super glue
Their kit is complete and makes this process a lot easier. I bought the speakers from Crutchfield and the oem style plugs weren�t more than $10 a set(I can�t remember and too lazy to look). Hopefully they don�t suck.
Not Porsche related. My Touareg is my daily and I visit Disney and my family in central FL very often so the miles on my vehicle are highway miles. Like a dumbass, I lowered the SUV and though it looks amazing� it destroys tires at 400.00 each and don�t last more than 7k miles. Finally decided to go the Overland route now that Eurowise is producing parts for Cayennes/Touaregs/Q7s. Since I can�t find my OEM springs, ended up getting complete strut assemblies from Rock Auto. The Eurowise kit is a 3� lift and anything bigger would require relocating the intercoolers and cutting the fender liners. The new tire/rim combo is a 275/55/20 and Rotiform STLs in 20x9 +35. They look cartoonish next to the OEM 19s on the dropped car.
The lift consists of a spacer for the top of the strut assembly and the rears require the disassembly of the strut hat. Here�s a finished rear.
In addition to the lift, I�ll have to lower the subframe by 1� so the axles won�t sit at an extreme angle. The Installation festivities start tomorrow and Wednesday.
Having *almost* finished changing the engine in my Cayenne Turbo I can assure that these vehicles are HORRIBLE to work on. Everything is in the way of everything else, it's like they thought "oh I can put this oil pipe here and block access to these 16 things".
Change an intercooler in the 996? 20 minutes. Change an intercooler in the Cayenne? 6 hours.
Yea, it pays about 10.5 hours under Porsche warranty book time to R&R the complete front cradle/ engine transmission assembly.......Wouldn't ya just love to be a "Porsche Tech" ?? lmaoo
No joke! Trying to r and r the oil level sensor? Drain the charge pipe?? Change #4 coil pack??? Starter replacement???? Thermostat replacement????? Don�t even get me started on engine mount access! No one on that engineering team ever held a wrench, except as an intellectual exercise.
But dang, when it all works�giddy up.
I want to set this damned thing on fire. I was able to convert ONE shock and now I�m trying to get the damned rear shock in without dissembling the whole rear. I did get one side of the rear subframe dropped.
Sooooo 3 days into my Touareg project and I reached out to someone who has a Canadian version of my T3. He advised me to drop the sub-frame as far as it�ll go and undo some of the arms. I have a digital copy of the VW mx guides and I can�t tell you how serious I am when it states to use a piece of wood to push down the knuckle and release the strut assembly from its prison. I did the reverse and undid 3 of the 4 arms. After a little hammer beating, cursing and some holy water� popped into place.
My MVP for this project is a 1/2 Makita impact driver� I couldn�t do this project without it. Now that I have corner done, the other rear will be alot easier and the fronts are pretty straight forward.
This is relevant to my build thread because my VW is directly interfering with working on my 996.
I think my Cayenne is one of the most poorly engineered vehicles I've ever owned. Things break faster than I can fix them. The latest thing is the headliner separating from whatever backing it's supposed to be adhering to. I'm going to have to fix it or tear it out before it moves any farther forward and covers my head.
Cayennes are like boats, the two happiest days of ownership are the day you buy it and the day you sell it.
I put this on a while ago.
Bro I love that! Aside from my Tomfoolery, my Touareg has only had one issue that was covered under warranty. The DPF igniter went bad and when the Touareg is no longer under the Dieselgate warranty� I�m gutting the DPF system. I�ve had the car for almost 5 years and put 55k miles. The car pulls like a Locomotive and is just freaking smooth to drive. Need to get the project done so I can finish the radio upgrades now that the speaker conversion is done.
Like Uncle Ben said, �With great power comes great responsibility���. I damaged a bolt using my monster 1/2 driver. Ordered a couple nuts and bolts but aside from that mishap, the rear is finished. Should start the fronts which I read is easier because you only have the option to remove the hub completely and not be dumb thinking I could just remove certain bolts to get around it.
I did finish the speaker mods and man the CAI kit is pretty damn nice, makes for pro looking work. Ordered a second set of speaker deletes rather than have a mix n match speaker grill set up(rears are CF). Do any of you use the radio removal tools to remove the radio? Unfortunately I�ll have to remove the center console again because I totally forgot to reroute the cell phone plug from under there.
Back to P car stuff. Had lunch with Barbancourt up in Broward. He hooked me up with an old shift boot so I could finish my shifter project. Photo of his car because I love the simple clean set up.
Next are the pics of the shift boot install to the frame. I did ok but still happy with it but I could�ve been finished a little better. The weighted **** is very nice and I love it.
Here�s a before pic with the GT3RS shift ****.
Thanks brother and yes, the VW is correctly occupying the garage but I could probably install the dash speakers now. Unfortunately Tropical Storm Nicole is out in the Atlantic deciding where to make landfall so the weather here is trash.
Still working on the VW� the upper A arm ball joint will not release and I managed to break a ball joint separator that was probably made of Chineseum. Anyway, my battery died on the Porsche and I guess I never noticed but the battery is giant relative to the car. Never really thought where I needed to stand until it was time to remove the old battery� yep I stepped into the frunk and the hood provided fantastic shade.
Removed the radio to see where the Rennkit would need to be mounted. For those with the BTR3, where did you all run power and ground?
Completely random thoughts, now that the VW is out and I�ve been really slow to work on her� the Porsche is now my daily. Man I commend you guys who use this car every day! The Teq cage forces you to site upright which isn�t too bad but reaching back to get the seatbelt once in the seat is my only gripe about the cage. Fuel mileage has been pretty good at about 220mi to the tank and premium is around $4.30 a gal in my area. I did manage to catch the ledge of a curb and �rip� the lip off, it went back on with no problem and gave me an opportunity to retape the cup lip.
The more I drive it, the more I enjoy the car. Very happy with the ownership experience thus far.
I have broken pickle forks too. Ball joints can be a real PITA. I guess it's time for the heat and the BFH. Keep at it and it'll eventually break free. Or take a grinder to the ball joints stud and press it out and replace the joint.
As far as the 996, you are braver than I stepping in the frunk like that! Although I'm sure it made taking the battery out much easier. Also, you are only getting 220 miles for a full tank?!?! That's like 14 MPG. I typically get upwards of 350 miles to a tank if I run it all the way down..
I stand in the frunk all the time, well not all the time but when u work on the battery and the fuel pump.
As far as the cage goes its rough on a stock seat position. Ill probably remove mine for the dragon trip.
Damn dude you're a bull in a china shop.
When I did my heater foam thing I popped the struts and put the hood over against the windshield. (I did not have the luxury of being in southern climes, and the sun was not a factor.)
The front bumper's a great place to sit when you're changing the fuel pump at the track.
I get 200 miles to a tank, usually, sometimes less. I do like to hear that wooshing sound. Drive faster! Support the oil companies! Someone's got to pay for Luis' beer!
My buddies all laugh at me because I�m about 5�9� @ 250lbs.
I believe so but not sure, I may have tossed them on accident.
You think it�ll be less of a pain in the *** with buckets in?
My girl lives 12mi away and all highway� it�s impossible not to speed. Just drove to Melbourne today and was making about 24MPG @ 75MPH.
When I recently replaced the stock amp, I didn't want to test the integrity of the frunk pan (I'm 6'-1' 220lbs) but I got so frustrated that I had to go full in
. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't dent or otherwise compromise the pan in any way.
One other update. Finally got around to installing the speakers into the car. Took about 30mins per speaker to convert a OEM speaker delete to a working speaker using the CAI kit and then removing the tabs on the Kickers to install into the CAI adapter. Ordered the speakers from Crutchfield since the speaker cables were included for free. Here�s the price breakdown for those who wanted to know.
Speaker Deletes - 55.00 per set x 2 = 110.00
Kicker 43DSC404 - 51.00 per set x 2 = 102.00
CAI speaker adapter kit - 50.00 per set x 2 = 100.00
So factoring the grand total of $312.00 and dividing by 4, the kickers sound better than the Bose units at 78.00 per. Links for products below.
Speaker adapter kit:
https://cai-store.com/collections/99...t-also-boxster
Speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DSC...-43DSC404.html
Speaker Deletes:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DSC...-43DSC404.html
I found the Kickers to sound more crisp and pleasant, especially at $50 per set. Sure I could�ve gone more expensive to a Hertz or JL unit but I don�t think my ear could really tell the difference. Here�s what they looked like post conversion.
Thanks for the breakdown on the speaker set up! Super useful. I'm curious to see how my stock Bose stuff sounds once I upgrade to PCCM+ and if there isn't an improvement I'll probably go this route.
After a couple times of reattaching the OEM Cup lip and it dragging on the ground, I bought a track Demon Motorsports lip. The fit is perfect and the track version has a sheen and not as polished as I�d imagine the other would be. You can see some mold marks but overall it�s what I wanted.
before.
After:
Big thank you to
@yaz996
for his phone mount. It�s a perfect companion for those with a console delete and the ESR mount holds my iPhone 14 Pro Max in Apple�s leather MagSafe case very tightly. Opted for Yaz�s power source and it sits behind the lower delete.
Also swapped out to a new cup holder since I had everything apart.
I can�t get the Rennkit module to power up and originally I thought it was because I didn�t have the correct power set up. I called Dave and he answered, customer service is fantastic but we really couldn�t troubleshoot at that moment. Decided to button everything up and try again tomorrow or Wednesday.
Joel, lip looks good. I have the same one but have yet to put it on. I will when I add the 3rd radiator. Like the product line Demon speed is developing for the 996.
Pretty happy today. Changed the oil today annnnnndddddd�.
Clean all the way and zero specs of anything, the Napa Gold filter did what it was advertised to do. The oil itself was pretty clean too so I believe in the twist on filter adapter and the filter. I�m elated, wasn�t really sweating it because there was nothing I could do after the fact and let�s all agree not to bore the block for the EPS bearing.
The car is ready for the drive up to the Dragon. Fresh oil, filter and wheels torqued.
I think part of the problem with non-Cup front spoiler lips is the plastic hardware that holds them on.
When I got my original Porsche cup front spoiler lip I used stainless hardware to hold it on.
My lip has been bent almost 180� without breaking.
It got a bit chewed up when being loaded to go to F6I.
Luckily I have 2 spares, 1 an original and 1 Demon Speed.
That�s good to know and I believe I�ll do the same at some point. Looking to clean up the OEM cup lip and keep it. There�s a chance I�ll be getting a cup bumper late next year so your method will probably be used.
After pushing the car hard at the Dragon, I have new thoughts and plans for 2023. First things first, I have semi solid engine mounts and I get audible vibration inside the cabin.
@Justin76
car on cold start is exceptionally quiet and he has factory mounts.
Next is the suspension.
@De Jeeper
has the Ohlins set up that I have and I found the ride to be legit. The sport suspension currently in my car did extremely well and at no point did I feel the car to be unstable at speed, hard braking, turns and etc but there was an absolute difference even in my hands. With that said 2023 will be the year the car gets everything done to include the Cargraphic air cup kit.
My big *** was sliding around like a wet noodle and the 14hr drive was enough for me to consider upgrading to RaceTechs sooner than later. Factory non sports along with the cage was brutal.
Lastly are the brakes. Mine were phenomenal during almost 8hrs of spirited driving. Pedal feel was consistent and I�m having a hard time justifying the 380mm set up. I understand that braking has a lot to do with the tires so I�m not dumb, just don�t think my current brakes are $6k inferior.
I would like to get rid of the sunroof and do a carbon roof skin. I rarely use it and feel it�s another expensive part that�ll eventually rattle or stop working. The almost stock power felt good but couldn�t get a good measure of the engine cooling because it was 50 degrees for most of the time.
All on all the car handled great and I plan to keep this car until I can�t drive anymore.
@TheChunkNorris
I don�t know if this is applicable to your engine mount situation.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ne-mounts.html
He talks about being robbed of hp with stiffer then factory engine/trans mounts.
Never tested semi mounts to see if they really do mess with the computer. Always ran oem mounts because my indy told me to for the same reason. But I did replace them with REIN mounts earlier this year per Tex's recommedation instead of factory. New mounts certainly tightened up the engine and shifting. Engine pulls strong at all rpms. Next step with be trans mounts. I wanted to spread out when I replaced both to see of there was an improvement in bslsnce snd shifting feel. I'll find out early next year on trans mounts when I replace with oem.
I've been running these for over a year now and am pretty happy.
https://rennpart.com/product/rs-engine-mount-upgrade/
They are stiffer than OEM but it's still rubber so NVH increase is minimal and you can tell a difference. I went with the URO version.
I have the Renegade Motorsport 350mm kit on the front of my 996.
In total I spent less than $1K.
I've been considering upgrading to Girodisc 350mm rotors($1300) just to drop some weight.
The rotors I chose (and the Renegade Motorsport adapters) added 10.34 pounds total to the front of my car.
The Girodisc rotors should drop that weight by 8.4 pounds.
+1 pound per side for the larger 350mm rotors would be awesome.
That would make my total price just over $2K for the 350mm front rotors.
I could keep the "old" 350mm rotors as a backup set.
No, this is the same kit.
I'd forgotten that you and I had discussed this BBK a couple of years ago.
I didn't remember us discussing it in PM until after I'd posted.
Washed the car which included removing the wheels to clean the barrels. The 3M ceramics are holding up well but the maintenance spray seized in the bottle so I�ve done little maintenance. Slowly phasing out my Chemical Guys products and going to transition to Shine Supply, more to come on that.
Been using a new to me Tire protectant and I freaking love it. It�s available on Amazon and really made for aircraft tire use.
Clean tire
Apply product
Allow to soak for 10mins
Wipe excess with damp cloth
Wipe moisture with dry cloth
Leaves a clean and matte finish that is durable and water resistant.
Link for product.
32 oz = 19.00
Tire Dressing, Tire Protectant, No Tire Shine, No Dirt Attracting Residue 32oz Natural Satin/Matte Finish, Aircraft Grade Rubber Tire Care Conditioner, Better Than Automotive Products
https://a.co/d/6YulXmV
I�m going to use their tire cleaner as well, a 16oz bundle is available for less than $20.00.
Nice - I like a more matte and not overly shiny look. The biggest thing that helped longevity for me was using tar remover, especially on a new tire. Really helps to ensure that the product bonds to the runner well. Car detailing is so therapeutic...
Before:
After:
I realized I didn�t post a pic of the completed car. I think I took a branch to the side of my car because I have a faint line that goes all the way down the side. Looks like it�ll have to be stripped and redone.
That was like during the 5 minutes they were working… remember, I kept telling you in the walkie.
Also, You’re pretty far behind me dog…. Just sayin.
That was fun 🤘
Welp� still working on the VW and needed to get a boot fixed sooo I�ve been using the 996 for the daily. The car has been really nice to drive except the frunk lock mechanism doesn�t always unlock. I drive to Melbourne often since my family lives there and noticed a slight vibration at speed, went to a local Discount Tire to get the tires balanced and this is what the tech found.
Looks like a punch maybe? Anyway the tire is patched and all of them balanced, car rides better now. Took advantage of the holiday season sale and bought a carbon side mirror set from Rennline. Should be sometime next week and I�ll be leaving again for work next month so the mirrors will be the last thing I do for 2024.
Here are some pics taken around my parents house.
1. Amazing 996!
2. Was the steering wheel custom or something I can buy?
3. The back end shot is art. I think your have a narrow body car? Hard to tell from that shot as it looks wider, maybe just a great angle.
4. Amazing 996, thank you for sharing.
Thanks guys. If everything goes well my next deployment� she�s going to look a little different. Hopefully I�ll get the GT3 Cup bumper or redo the interior. Carbon roof is on the list.
The wheel is a custom wrapped wheel that I got locally. She�s indeed a narrow body car and you�re very welcome.
Man this car can be pretty random� like an idler pulley blowing up after some spirited driving. Floored it around 15mph, it was cold outside but the car was warmed up, then at about 55mph the battery light came on and I lost power steering. Figured I broke a belt when it happened but when I pulled the air box this is what I found.
Just ordered the pulleys and conti belt from FCP, I�ll only be installing the failed pulley because the car is currently at gf�s house which doesn�t allow cars to be worked on.
For as perfect as the RPM Technik Ducktail is, the ends adjacent to the hinges were making contact and didn�t allow me to open the trunk completely. Took advantage of the fact I needed to remove the trunk lid and trimmed the affected area.
Reinstalled the lid this morning and everything lined up perfectly. I was pretty nervous about putting a Dremel to the Evo but the adage of measure twice and cut once has never proved me wrong.
Gorgeous. It must suck to have to leave it, but I guess it will make you enjoy it all the more when you're back .. I think you meant 22 tho? Unless, that car has a flux capacitor...? Doc is that you?
My girl decided to take a trip to St. Augustine for a family vacation with her 7yr old. Managed to get some tickets for the Brumos Collection Museum in Jacksonville and let me tell you� absolutely recommend you all go if given the chance. Tickets can be purchased online and required for entrance.
The venue is gorgeous and the staff was incredibly kind and helpful. My girl�s kid got some stickers and a little Matchbox car, he loved it. Here are the pics.
Welp. The pulley�s came in and after driving from St. Augustine to Miami(5.5hrs with holiday traffic)� I decided to install the pulleys only to find out the upper pulley didn�t come with the necessary spacer. Tried reusing the old one and no joy, it�s fused into the bearing race. Here�s some of my handy work after the futile efforts to get it loose.
Tried soaking it in penetrating fluid, torch, hammer and punch� nada. The originally damaged pulley was a 5min job so this hiccup is especially maddening. I�m also a scatterbrain and thought I purchased all 3 pulleys, I�m missing the tension pulley which is also cracked. Sent FCP an email so hopefully they�ll fix this and I ordered the missing pulley now.
Cracked pulley.
I own 2 cars and both are down. Still waiting for an axle rebuild on the VW and bought another one that should be here tomorrow, I�m installing the first one that is available. The joys of owning Germans.
Ha! I went through all kinds of research hell trying to be sure to get the correct brake components for my E93. Bought kits based on the brake rotor part number, which may have been what did me in; the verts seem to have a mix of components from the wagon and sedan/coupes. Everything was right except the front brake pads. Amazingly, I ordered the stuff from FCP Euro at around 11:30 Thursday morning, and it was all on my porch by 9:30 am the next day! I was flabbergasted. All it accomplished in the end was giving me a head start on getting the right front pads.
Chris at FCP is who I worked with and they�re sending me a new unit. Figured I�d update that.
Next item, the side mirrors arrived from Rennline by way of Pelican Parts. Initial thoughts are very positive and minimal blemishes. I�ve said it before but I�m a carbon fiber snob and really look at the details of good carbon work. If my CSR is a 10/10, the Rennline mirrors are a 8/10.
The two things I look for is how the edges are rolled and when two edges meet on a curved surface. I�m happy to say the mirrors have very good rolled edges and the mesh work is clean. I did find some small defects but not enough to return the item or not install them on the car.
Unfortunately I got covid yesterday and my car is at my girl�s house. With that said I�ll install the pulley when it gets here.
Speedy recovery! And damn, you gotta love when a 10 minute job turns into a huge ordeal. Good reminder to check mine and make sure I get the right pulley.
Get well soon!
Yeah, I really like the looks of the carbon fiber mirror shells from Rennline.
My only "complaint" was that the nice looking "shiny" carbon fiber side didn't go farther inside.
You can see the end of the "shiny" carbon fiber near the edge of the mirror.
Perhaps this was because of clearance, but if they had gone another inch inside it would be perfect.
But these mirror shells are a HUGE improvement over the typical carbon fiber mirror "covers" available from china.
Not just the looks of the carbon fiber, but the Rennline mirror shells are the entire OEM-like part and not a stick-on cover.
They are also MUCH cheaper than the OEM or DB-Carobn CF shell!
Get well soon. Drink water, Sleep. You've heard it a million times.
Newb carbon questions:
-What makes the shiny surface? Is it the flatness of the mold or does someone polish after the molding?
-Seems like this would have to be handmade. How many pieces does a person need to build before they know how to lay each piece and get the pattern to look amazing? Or maybe it doesn't matter.
It's a combo of both but I believe these are prepreg/dry vs wet which is more like how you lay fiberglass while dry has resin in the fibers and requires an autoclave to bake. Both require plugs and both get polished afterwards.
I agree on the quality vs the alternatives. I tried sourcing a set of OEMs but could only find the driver's side so the Rennline will do well.
Do all 3 btw... I kinda pissed myself off when I realized I ordered 2 and not 3 only to find the tensioner pulley to be cracked.
Good call! I'm trying to replace all the little BS that will ruin your day when you're on the road and the pulleys are one. One of my coolant hoses has a crack on the plastic T junction so need to do that too.
amen to that .. I have the philosophy that whatever part of the car I'm working on that i replace all the plastics and rubber of that area.. age had worn out or killed most of that stuff.
Yeah - you're not wrong there! I'll be installing a valved exhaust come spring and am tempted to just replace all the vacuum lines at that point. I've gotten pretty good at removing the intake manifold and could probably do it all with just the driver side plenum out! With these cars being so sensitive to vacuum leaks it might not be the worst idea. I don't trust those rubber junction fittings and plasticky lines.
I've gone as far as replacing the all fender liners and hardware along with some of the undertrays when i replaced all the suspension arms and installed the ohlins... pricey but worth it in the end..
All good news now. FCP�s customer service is great, pulley with the correct accessory parts arrived and too all but 45mins to install. The silicon intake tube took more time to install than everything else.
After all of that, went to start the car and the battery was dead. I ordered a battery charger a while back that works with the cigarette lighter and after 2hrs� it got up to 80%.
Lastly, installed the Rennline carbon mirrors. Took around 35mins but I need to get some foam to line the bottom mirror cover that interfaces with the plastic trim piece, the old mirrors had it so I�ll do the same. Saved .6lbs in the process.
Welp... I have my deployment date which is the 16th at this moment. Kinda bummed and today is my step kid's 8th bday but my girl now has covid... I tested negative so there shouldn't be any issues traveling. Thanks for the kind words and I feel normal. Rod from Classic 9 sent me some pics and it should be shipped sometime today. Went with the 930 red x-stitch that is 930 era specific and the natural suede/smooth leather pad cover gives it some contrast. Justin is getting my current wheel and I ordered a Momo hub kit and a adapter ring for the 3 bolt Atwie. The more I look at it, the more I want a QD from either Works Bell or a Racetech Group N. For now a regular Momo will be used.
Aaaand I�ll be leaving on the 21st now. Pretty happy about the extra week and the steering wheel gets here tomorrow but the thing I�m most happy about is� I have two working cars again. The Touareg is awaiting wheel bolts but the suspension is completed and she is lifted.
I lowered the car about 2� and now added the 3� lift for an overall lift of 5�. Car rides great and the wheel bolts arrive on Friday.
Man I�ll never work on this car�s suspension again. I�ll light the damn thing on fire or sell it if suspension work is needed� it�ll onIy be done at my buddy�s shop because this damned thing kicked my ***.
I�m still getting back to normal post covid and my buddy came to help me out. It�s amazing what an extra set of hands can do, thankfully the Porsche has a simpler design and I�m confident it�ll be a lot easier.
Sigh. Your Toureg is shinier than my 996 and much taller than my Cayenne. I think I'm depressed. Nice work, it looks great. I'm waiting for the vid where you roll over everyone!
I had to wet sand a section on the hood that touched the inner part of the garage door, need to buff it out. I�m hoping to ceramic coat her next week. What Cayenne do you have? Eurowise has all the nice kit for those cars.
Here's the brute. '09 GTS 6MT. A lot of miles and several tons of fun. These are also smile machines. It's amazing how well this handles at speed. It's 'slow' to start because 1st gear is nearly a granny gear. I'm almost at a point to think about mods. Currently have the intake off for carbon cleaning from valves.
Wheel arrived today and it�s exactly what I was hoping for it to look and feel like.
Leaving it at my buddy�s shop on Monday and he�s quick on these small jobs.
Attended my last mini event at Schnebly's winery down on Redlands. There was an amazing show of P cars.
My car got a lot of looks, very humbling considering the type of cars that were there. Of course the ducktail was loved by many, lots of questions.
Looks like the last one is Amazon green metallic based on some IG/Rennbow detective work. Not sure about the one in the 2nd pic. Could be Prussian blue metallic which I'm seriously considering for my repaint.
So I�d like to thank Classic 9 for their work. I was on the fence whether I�d like the natural suede option and it feels amazing, very very sticky too.
While that was getting done, I polished the hood on the VW. The hood touched the inside of the garage door and scratched it, so much so that a wet sand was necessary. Haven�t used an orbital buffer in close to 10yrs and it requires some finesse. It�s pretty damn easy to burn the paint right off but god knows how many hours I have behind one so the technique came back quickly.
Started with Iron Remover, makes the clay bar work easier and less abrasive so in turn requires less of a cut when polishing. Purple streaks is iron oxidizing with the iron remover, don�t let this dry on paint.. you�ll damage the paint permanently.
Here�s after two step polish(DA), the initial compound(Orbital) and clay bar. About 40mins of work.
and a face shot.
Detailing technology has changed so quickly the last 10yrs. It�s easier and you�re able to achieve incredible results with very little effort. Think you�d be surprised how well you�d do.
Finally made it out of the country for work and let me tell you� in over 20yrs of flying as an adult, I�ve never been turned away from the ticketing counter and it happened yesterday due an �issue� with a Visa. Because I missed that first flight , I was able to celebrate my girl�s son�s bday. He was elated! Second attempt of flying out was better, 11hrs to Turkey and 4hrs to Bahrain.
I did get some time driving with the new steering wheel, the suede damn near sucks the moisture out of your hands but absolutely love it. There were a couple people on IG that asked about hand placement and how that particular wheel changed my driving position. So far I haven�t adjusted my seating position and have adjusted how close(or far) the wheel is to me. Out of all the crap I�ve done to the car, the ducktail and now the steering wheel are my favorites.
The girls are put away. Started using Apple�s Freeform app to get my scatterbrained self focused on upgrading both the VW and 996. The focus of this year will be changing every suspension component on the Porsche and maybe getting the RaceTechs(or just one to see if I really want a bucket). The other thing is getting rid of the sunroof and doing a carbon skin conversion.
@yaz996
hooked me up with a parts list so I�ll probably start amassing parts.
Put the Porsche on a Battery Tender for the first time since it has a new battery and somehow there�s draw somewhere so that should make it easy. I�ve never had an issue with the VW surprisingly enough but I did add Seafoam to the diesel. Should be out of the country for close to 5 months and I have a friend who will drive the Porsche more than it has been in the past.
Realized I didn�t post the finished product of the lift + wheel combo of the VW.
Rides well but need:
Eurowise Intercooler relocation kit
Eurowise upper A-arms
I�ll be adding some overloading things:
Eurowise Winch
Warn Evo VR
Eurowise Rack
Goose-Gear Trunk Flooring
Once I get back from this deployment I�ll be heading to the Mojave Trail in August with a couple friends. My VW will be the recovery vehicle for the voyage.
Ok first, it awesome looking and make me miss my truck.. Second is now I have to get back in to overlanding.. let the search begin for a Cayenne Diesel!
So the airbag light is on because the little contraption sent with the hub kit looked sus. While on my search for a better quality component, I stumbled on some old pics of my car via a google search. What plug n play kits have you all used?
Brought back some memories and now I want a Works Bell or Race-tech QD set. I had a security cover in my Z when using the WB. Before someone suggests the NRG short hub and QD, I�m going with previous experience and prefer the OG.
Send me your address in a PM and I'll send you the right resistor. I just got rid of my air bag light after installing my Momo Mod07. Some of those kits include a very small fuse which doesn't actually fix the issue. You need an actual resistor to be installed in-line of the orange plug that would connect to the OEM airbag plug.
Managed to find a 997 GT3 sunroof less headliner on eBay UK and snatched it up. The sunroof delete is way off as far as projects are concerned but it�s nice finding clean parts on the cheap.
Most of this thread is a culmination of me thinking out loud. I�ve gone back and forth with the seat choice, after chatting with Brandon at Sparco� I�m going with a variation of the XL seat. The one that caught my eye is the QRT Performance.
Sparco offers custom covers at a premium but at least the option is available for regular Evo QRT XLs. I don�t particularly like tons of branding on things so the subdued appearance is right up my alley for sure.
Next is more RPM Technik goodies. I�ve been trying to locate a carbon hood and bumper. Simon from RPM might still have a hood that�s prepped for paint but I wanted to keep it in raw carbon.
Lastly are the brakes. I still have the 997 GT3 Cup brakes with the bolts for the brackets and I will need to rebuild/replace my calipers at some point.
@GTSchport
sent me info on a company who mods 18Z Brembos and 997 Turbo calipers to fit our 996 hubs. I might sell the 380mm bracket/calipers and get this kit.
http://www.goingsuperfast.com/Porsche-996.html
I�d rather upgrade at this point but keep a 350mm set up simply because I have multiple sets of wheels that probably won�t fit over the 380mm monsters.
Hi, my name is Joel and I have an addiction to buying **** I don�t need.
I�m getting 4 faces, 4 lips and 4 barrels for a good price BUT the only catch is one of faces has a crack in it. Even after ordering a replacement face and assembly� I undercut a new set by $2000. I�m up to 6 wheels now and two sets are project wheels.
Hi Joel. Welcome.
Not being judgy, we sympathize of course but : Six wheels or six sets of wheels?
If you are not sure exactly how many you have then take comfort because you are not alone.
If only you lived in a 4 season town. You could run one set with Hoosiers, another with Hoosier wets, one with winter treads, one with summer treads and the last with 4 season tires.
You would be covered.
FVD and a couple guys have told me it�ll take a year to get the face I need which is good because if not� I�d rebuild them asap. If anyone has a face with a PN 0288108� let me know.
So I ended up ordering the face from Rhonda @ FVD and it�ll be here in 12-16months. I won�t be able to get them done until then so the TEs will be on for some time.
I have good news for us Chonky Bois who like race car things in carbon fiber� on April 1st there will be a XL carbon seat option on Sparco�s site. These are pics of the seat, yes the one in the pic is a L but the one I�m getting is an XL.
I prefer a more subdued look for the seats but the Performance covering isn�t available on the carbon XL seat but is an option on the non carbon XL. The end goal is this but with red stitching.
Classic 9 will be doing the seat cover work since they did an exceptional job on the Cup steering wheel. I�m only doing one seat to ensure I�m 100% sure I want to invest that much into a seat. Think the only thing I�m on the fence on is whether to have the an embossed Porsche crest in the headrest or leave the �Sparco� script in black or carbon. I�m open to suggestions.
I had sparco Grid IIs in my corvette, have you ordered yet? not sure what pricing is like but I ordered from Murray Motorsports in ireland and it was dirt cheap (I think less than 800$ shipped for the pair)
I don't remember if I told you or not yet, but figured I'd throw them out there since I had a great experience.
Gratuitous self promotion:
Bro I love that Vette. These are full carbon and a friend who has a wholesale account is checking to see if they can be purchased through his business. Unfortunately I don�t know anything other than what I was told by the Sparco Rep.
Man I appreciate it. Jason sent me an IG post from BBS Motorsports� page with a pic of a bunch E88 faces. I doubt my order will be fulfilled this year but at least there are pics to suggest they�re getting parts pumped out.
Aside from the seat and the suspension refresh, my plans for the car will be very light. The VW needs some love and parts are equally expensive since the Touareg is a Cayenne without the Stuttgart Crest. Last item I need for the suspension is rear LCAs which I�ll be getting from Vertex in Miami which come with replaceable ball joints.
Bro I�m so happy for you!!! Yaz sent me the link when they were still for sale and it took everything in me not to buy them and keep the other set as a spare. Your car is already exceptional and adding E88s will make it that much nicer.
Thanks chunk for the kind words but I couldn’t pass up real GT3 E88 for that price shipped
a friend sent me this pic last week and that look was eating me alive
Shifting away from the 996, I had a pretty unique opportunity to go out to the Bahrain Intl Circuit this week for a Karting event and found out they also had a 4x4 experience here too. At 250lbs� everyone ran away from me on the main straight but I�d catch them in the interior part of the course, out of 19 cars I placed 10th so I guess I�ll call it a moral victory.
I may have caught the Karting bug which would mean I�d probably have to give up another hobby to fund it. There�s a Kart track adjacent to Homestead Motor Speedway, it�s about 10mins from my house and you can rent a small garage for your kart� or maybe some Porsche parts *wink* *wink*.
The 4x4 experience was exceptional and actually very technical. Since I�ll be doing the Mojave in August, why not get some training in a rocky and desert environment? There were several 70� ascent/decent peaks, loose sand, water fording area and different terrain to experiment on. I did well but in reality the Nissan Patrol did all the work, ironically it was a gas powered V8 with a much of off-road doodads vs the older diesel monsters we�re used to seeing on this side of the world.
Going up the 70� was pretty straight froward and pretty cool considering I was damn near looking into heaven but when we got to the peak and the instructor told me to get off the gas and not use the brake� that�s when I had to let the decent control do it�s thing. It�s pretty unnerving looking straight down at the trail and not ahead. Overall it was definitely worth it, there�s a McLaren experience there but not sure if it�s a seasonal thing since I haven�t seen any sessions open. Took a small self guided tour and I was the only person at the circuit at the time of the photos, enjoyed the quietness but would�ve loved to experience the scream of F1 cars.
Very cool. Im planning in getting a few karting days in at njmp this year. It can only make u better at the track.
If u want to offroad ill be your huckleberry
. We have started planning our 2024 go west trip
That is amazing! I know a couple VW/Porsche guys who�ve done Moab in their Touaregs/Cayennes but I�d like to do something less technical and more like off grid camping.
Before that road trip, my wife (GF at the time) was pissed about the time and money I spent installing the winch and bumper. After that self recovery, I earned a some leeway in regards to vehicle projects. Now all those chips are getting cashed in with the current Porsche work.
Funny you say that. The people that have done the trip actually told me to invest in better traction boards and recovery equipment but said a winch wouldn�t be required. I�m on the fence because the winch and mount is 1200.00 or I can get a spare rim and tire.
We get the Sparco QRT-C carbon seat in the UK :
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/spar...-s-s008025znr/
Unfortunately it's only available in one size. Large.
I'm 6ft tall and 185lbs and fairly well rattled around in one when I tried one for size, so I purchased a QRT Evo, non-carbon instead, and fitted it into the car using the BBi floor mount kit. Then I found it was impossible to get comfortable in ...
I pulled it out and fitted this instead. It's far lower (I suspect nearly 2") and way more comfortable than the Sparco, though regrettably for you larger guys, it's only available in one size :
Oh man thanks for this post. I�m also doing a BBI base with the Sparco inserts/washers for my particular set up. I�m only 5�9� but with a Hispanic *** and legs so imagine a chubby sprinter. The problem are my thighs and back? which is magnified while sitting in a race seat. My dad has a Nismo 370z which comes with Recaro Sportsers and while my back fits perfectly, my lower section is snug and I�d rather be in a bucket if I�m going to be snug.
The method of measuring Brandon told me to do put me at approximately 16.5� in width with probably 1-1.5� to spare. The XL is 16.5� so it�ll be damned near perfect and I have the Teq cage in my car I think I�ll be ok. I�ll get good measurements for you guys once the seat goes in. Also for those wondering how the hell I�m going to get out� I got the Works Bell QD system for my car. So if I�m ever flopping around like a turtle on it�s back� I can remove the wheel for more room.
The biggest issue for me was the inability to get the seat as low as I wanted it. As soon as I drove the car with the Sparco/BBi combination installed, I knew it was too high.
I dropped the seat down at the back as much as it would go, but the seat shell fouled on the side mount return flange, so it was impossible to get it any lower.
I considered running the combination without sliders, but I figured it would make getting in and out a PITA, and by that time I�d lost faith in the BBi floor adaptor kit/side mounts, added to which it�s not drilled to accept side mounts without sliders, so rather than drill holes in the floor adaptor, I figured I�d throw the towel in and sell the kit unmodified.
Also be aware there�s not a huge amount of padding foam in the rear seat base cushion or the backrest lower cushion, and what there is, is thin, light duty and not particularly comfortable...
I was going to try modifying the cushions with alternative, denser foam, but again, I figured I�d quit whilst I was ahead and sell the seat unmodified, and try an alternative.
Cobra have engineered both the Nogaro seat shell and it�s specific ultra-low side mounts to ensure that combined they allow an incredibly low seat install/seating position.
I estimate it to be 2� lower than the Sparco Evo/BBi combination, and the end result means I feel more connected to the car than with either the stock 996 Sports seat, a 997 Sport seat I tried, and the Sparco/BBI combo.
If you get the opportunity to sit in the XL carbon Sparco for a decent amount of time, I would do so, only then will you know if it�s truly suited to you/your frame. Hope it works out for you
Humor me, did you need the seat lower to fit inside the car with a helmet on or for comfort? I like where this convo is going because we come in all shapes and I believe a lot of the race seat configurations are geared for people under 6� and 180lbs. I bought a carbon HJC helmet and can�t find it.. it�s either at my Mom�s house or somewhere in a room at my girl�s house, i swear that place is Narnia. When I get home in July, the seat should be at Rod�s ready to ship OR my buddy�s shop in Miami. I plan on slapping that seat in there asap because Racecar and I�ll have pics of my particular set up to include helmet clearance.
Completely unrelated to the Sparcos, I�ve been picking up parts for the E88s that�ll hopefully be built sometime before I�m old enough to get Social Security. I stumbled across System Motorsport and Thomson has been answering some questions regarding some center caps I�ve been looking for. Then I started looking at the page and found they are selling hardware, gaskets and etc for Motorsport wheels. Ordered some hardware for 4 wheels and they arrived it my girlfriend�s house� shipped from BBS and I thought I was getting aftermarket/generic parts so I�m pretty stoked about it.
If anyone knows someone who has a set of 70mm 3 Tab Carbon BBS center caps or Black and Chrome 3D caps on the same measurements, please DM me.
Solely for comfort. My lower back is toast, so seat fitment is crucial. And I'd rather go through several seats/sidemount/baseplate combos to find the right one, than pay a fizzio or chiropractor every time I use the car !!
Found a picture of you on Insta last night BTW, you ain't that big
You should fit in that carbon Sparco without any worries at all.
Chunk did you get all bbs replacements?
im asking because when I get the rims I want to have them powered BBS Gold and want them rebuilt
please post any contact info
@Justin76
has a dude that he recommends on the East Coast but I can't remember the shop's name. I used System Motorsport for the bolts and will for the gaskets as well.
Hi!
For a rebuild, the assembly hardware, washers, and gasket + gasket o-ring must be replaced entirely as they cannot be reused. By reusing, there is a risk that they will not seal properly thus resulting in a slow leak. Let us know if you need any assistance with sourcing the right components. Of course, we can also source the centers, inners, and outers (though the centers there is quite the long wait right now).
Happy to help!
Thanks for jumping in and thanks again for answering my questions via email regarding parts. Glad to see you found my thread. Had I known about the centers I would've purchased through you but unfortunately FVD is local.
FWIW - I haven’t replaced the gasket/o-ring during my rebuilds (2X). They were in perfect condition visually and never experienced any air leaks.
I do generally replace the hardware and valve stems though.
Ill read it now but I remember when I got my 350Z wheels done, I was told to paint and not powder coat due to the wheels being Forged aluminum. My TEs will be painted guard�s red and the e88s will be in BBS RGR Diamond Black.
Ricer! 😂 Those are so bling. What color is your Z? It looks blue but can't tell.I learn something on the rennlist everyday...I had no idea that powder coating, too much heat, is bad for alloy wheels. I mean, I have the basics of metallurgy, but I figured that the wheel powder coating processes were safe. That's because there's shops that powder coat wheels all day long. First I was going to get them refinished and painted by
https://www.rgxrims.com/wheel-customization
Then I was told that paint would not last, that the places use an automotive paint clearcoat and it's just not durable enough and absorbs brake dust.
So when a fellow PCA member here posted pics of his newly powder coated wheels, and recommended a place about 2 hours up the highway in Raleigh my mind was changed. I planned on powder coating my 17 twists in black, maybe glossy to mimic the factory option. But now I'm not so sold on powder coating. I want to keep my original factory wheels though. Mine are the silver gray, very curbed and the finish is peeling off in places. As a stopgap I've plastidipped them black. Love the look with my black Carrera decals on meridian metallic. The paint and trim repair shop, RGX are local to me so easier, and have decent testimonials. Maybe I'll check that paint option again.
OR maybe I'll stick with plastidipped. I've done it once and the finish is a bit meh, but I'm sure the second time I can do a better job. I also used the older plastidip last time, and since then I believe the product has advanced quite a bit. You can't beat the price, and so far it's held up, looks fine from 10ft.
Sorry for the essay. Why do my posts always end up so freaking long? Apologies!
Believe it or not, it�s actually Silverstone. She was a 2004 350z Touring, loved that car. The purple was a candy version of HKS purple. When HKS USA closed their doors the first time, I bought their experimental GT Supercharger and HKS Endless Brakes. My car was known even to HKS Japan and the only full GT kit in North America, all the parts were legit and I miss that car terribly.
I just remember people saying the heating process could damage the integrity of the wheel but that was specifically for forged wheels like the TEs and alike. I prefer painted wheels because I can easily repair chips but powder coating is supremely more durable. My painter used a BASF kit for the cage and I�ll be color matching the wheels to that for a RS look. Honestly I think the tech has changed for powder coating as well. I might be living in 2008 when it comes to the process.
Also don�t apologize, I appreciate the discussion part of all the madness going on in this thread� good or bad I like chatting it up.
All jokes aside, I think people take themselves too seriously here and would probably act differently if they were not hiding behind a phone screen or computer monitor. I�ve met some cool people on here and I follow most of them on IG so I�m happy about that. I�m sure there are a lot of guys that don�t particularly like my taste in upgrades or the dudes I run with but they participate anyway and know I�m not a dick 100% of the time.
Quick update. The Sparco seat is on its way to Rod@Classic 9. Only thing I�ll be changing is the subdued �Sparco� script to an embossed crest. The parts required to attach the BBI mount to seat are on their way to my girl�s house. Pretty excited for this particular upgrade especially since there�s a chance I�ll be at Sebring at the beginning of Sept for my first HPDE in a Porsche.
Unrelated to the actual seat but a safety thing would be new seat belt receptacles and maybe a Willans harness. If you haven�t noticed I like weird crap and had Willans on my Z so going to continue that trend of Willans on my cars.
Got an amazing opportunity to see Petra this week. We weren�t scheduled to hit Jordan at all but somehow it worked out. Can�t begin to tell you all how lucky I was to get this bucket list item knocked out and it�s definitely worth the experience.
No updates other than some dumb but necessary upgrades on the VW. Communication with Rod has been spotty but all the other seat components have arrived in Miami. I realized something, the cushion on the XL has a pattern that I didn�t particularly care for and hopefully he�ll address it.
I want a plain cover and hopefully he�ll reach out soon because I�m scheduled to be home next month. Should have it installed the same day I get it. Pete helped me out with the correct item needed for the airbag simulator and getting a harness from EBay to not cut up the factory clock spring harness. The only planned upgrade to the steering wheel set up is a Works Bell QD kit.
My best friend has been taking my car out once and while. The dreaded creak is coming from 3 sides of the car sooooo I need to get a set of coffin arms for the rear now. With all that said I�ll be installing the full GT3 suspension set up the first week of August.
- Ohlins GT3 R&T with Tarett mounts
- 997 GT3 adjustable LCAs(Fronts)
- Demon Speed inner LCAs(Fronts)
- Meyle LCAs(Rear)
- 996.2 OEM GT3 Sways(F&R)
- Tarett drop links(F&R)
- Sway bar bushings
The goal is to be around GT3 suspension spec in regards to ride height. I�ll lower it more once I get the Cargraphic air cup kit next year but for now I�d like to see how she handles the Miami bumps and potholes. Wish me luck because the VW almost made me not want to work on cars ever again.
Finally got the one TE37 touched up and decided to leave them in their factory black finish. Just wished Volk made subdued wheel decals, I don�t mind �loud� colors but I think excessive decals makes a car look like a sponsored NASCAR. There�s a chance a set of Nitto NT01s will make their way onto the TEs in these sizes.
245/40/18
305/35/18
You might be asking why I�d chose to put race tires on a street car? No idea� because racecar?
Lastly, the E88s made it to my buddy�s shop. Still can�t believe it managed to get a set and honestly having the TEs and now E88s have fulfilled my pursuit of grail wheels. The face that was ordered from FVD is a long way away so the last thing I�d like to get is a set of Butzigear center cap adapters. Apparently you can pop in a set of 70mm floating center caps from BBS on that adapter.
Welp the E88s have landed at my boy�s shop. Still waiting for the 4th one from FVD but this type of **** makes me happy after being on this floating prison.
Rod got a hold of me and he�s personally working on my seat due to some of the pattern work. He�s out of the shop next week so hopefully I�ll have some pics around that time.
I was there in '99, part of a long backpack dive safari with some land excursions we mixed in. There was no agenda, the only thing that was prebooked was the live aboard dive boat. Every now and again I get my dive logs out and I can see everything in my mind like I'm still there. Dusk Dives at the brothers, where no one in their right mind should be getting wet, with a seemingly submarine sized oceanic white tip circling us as we dangled on our off gassing line, daring each other to be last out of the water..., Deep drift dives on big brother, the waves overhead as we rib'd to the dives starting point. The boat driver in mask and snorkel, grinning as we surfed along. hammerheads, greys, octopus mating at night, flashing iridescent in my dive light, the sun and color over the Sudan, night dives at the Thistlegorm, flying with sea turtles in the current. The smell of camel, and color of dust in the fading light at Petra, the soukh, Cairo madness, Russian nightclubs, hookahs, nights under the stars. Everything was like being in an Edgar rice Burroughs adventure to me. I literally cried a few times at the beauty of it all, knowing I had to go back to dreary cold London, the last dive so bittersweet. The other divers faces, sad but knowing at the same time, that we had memories shared that felt unique and special, a secret only we shared. my life now seems boring. Modern life is rubbish as they say. Sorry, your pictures made me a little melancholy I'm afraid. Thanks for sharing.
Yeah I saw that as well. You could always ask a friend there to bring it over as carry on. Or maybe another shop could buy one and ship it themselves. Lee from 9werks has one on his '99. Maybe he's got a connection.
I was fortunate to get mine and if I got the exhaust, I�d have to ask one of my friends across the pond to ship it for me.
No worries at all brother and I know that feeling all too well. Glad you could at least reminisce on some good memories. The sun is setting on my deployment career so I�ll look back on this one fondly.
I would think just shipping parts into the US wouldn't be a hassle unless it was an EPA or NHTSA issue, there are no Customs or Taxes charged I don't think..
I know shipping stuff over the pond from here the Customs/Tax will want another 21%!!
Damn shame. Love to really know why they aren't shipping.
With the excitement created by the Seinfeld purchased 996 Club, we will see someone in the US make a carbon version. Just like the endorsement by Magnus a few years ago created social media awareness on the 996 with the millennial generation, Seinfeld's purchase and positive words on the 996 will put a turbocharger on 996 demand and especially interest in the ducktail.
Glad you got one Joel. Keeping my fingers crossed that I will eventually be able to get one as well. Not ready to refresh the exterior yet, so I got time to watch the rising demand for the 996 to materialize into even more solutions for us 996 owners.
I could reach out and ask, Simon was very good to work with. If anything maybe we can ask about a bulk purchase? Should be home mid July.
I have a couple people I could ask or just fly to England and ship myself.
I did have to pay a fee to DHL but don�t recall the actual price. When I had my Z and ordered parts from Japan, there were a couple times I had to pay some type of fee as well. Wish I paid more attention to what it was.
As of this post, I have the only Evo Ducktail and I was hoping to see more� I�ve never been a gatekeeper and enjoy when other people get things based on my irrational and irresponsible buying habits.
About 2 days from hopping on a helicopter and getting off this floating prison of shame. Having been part of the military/contractor over the last 20yrs has brought me to some miserably hot places� each place hotter than the next. My 2 person stateroom is currently 85� and 78% humidity at 0252am. Its time, the company I work for is going through a transitional period and couldn�t find a replacement and I was extended yet again.
Started from my first post and started reading this thread, realized that at some point I mentioned that having a set of TE�s or E88�s would be a dream. Never thought I�d end up with both, such an amazing feeling.
A local dude started a 996 group in Miami and have been meeting once a month, looks like I�ll get to maybe do one this time around so looking forward to that. Can�t wait to get back in the car and actually drive� I haven�t driven anything for 7months!!!
Soooo this thing started it's life as a USNS ship and has a forward and aft house, I live in the forward house that wasn't part of the initial build before it became a USS hull. With that said this POS doesn't have your standard air barrier systems you're used to.
Hey Brother did you end up getting your ducktail?
Finally ordered the Function First solid shifter ends today via their site:
https://www.function-first.com/produ...42746783957145
With the FF solid cables and the FF ball bearing metal guts for the shifter, the set up should be complete with the exception of this:
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99742498300.html
It claims to shorten the throw by 35% and has an illustration of the throw. If the 997 is 15% shorter than a 996 and you add that... I can't math. Looks like something I'd like to consider down the road, the B&M was shorter than I liked.
Anyway I'll inspect the trans mount when under the car undoing the shifter cable ends and make any adjustments on the shifter console, there are set screws on the bushings that I'd like to confirm they're set. This time the screws will marked with a torque stripe like I should've done in the beginning. My time at home will be shorter this time around, had a family member pass a couple weeks so we're having a celebration of life a day after I'm scheduled to come home... which means I'll have to drive to Ocala from Miami(4hrs or so) to drive down the next day and leave to Disneyland for 6 days. After running that gamut, I'll have time to start poking around on the Porsche and the VW then the Mojave.
So far I have most of the things needed for the Mojave Trail and at this point my buddy may or may not go which means I'll probably do the trail alone in my trusty Touareg. Need to mount the new rack when it arrives and adding a second battery with a 12v panel adjacent to the factory one that is in the trunk area. The spare battery will go where the uber compact spare is now because with the lift and new tire combo... a space saver won't work too well. Only big ticket item is the fridge, need to measure the trunk with the hatch closed to see if the fridge I want will actually fit. Like the Cayenne the Touareg has a little slope in the trunk area which aesthetically looks great but sucks dimensionally.
Anyone in Detroit who knows Rod@Classic 9? Communications has been really slow and my window home is small this year so I�d like the Sparco in sooner than later.
I�ve noticed some small blemishes in the paint after I washed her, think my dad may have driven the car through a car wash sooooo I�m going to strip and recoat. The TE37 that was getting touched up is done but I�m on my way to LA for a family vacation to Disney, pretty stoked to get working on the car when I get back and finally get the suspension in. Probably getting tires for the TEs by way of Michelin PS2s, same as the OZs. The shifter ends arrived and just like the rest of FF�s parts� they�re very well machined and complete.
Welp� before I left to our family vacation at Disneyland, my DSM GT3 Cup lip departed the front of my car while on the highway because I waited too long to install the lip via nuts n bolts like
@De Jeeper
and
@TexSquirrel
advised me to. The lip arrived at my house yesterday via DSM in 3 days� I love their CS and products.
Next will be some detailing items. The Leatherique thread convinced me to try it out on my seats which are pretty clean and have very little wear.
Lastly, I�ll be picking up the remainder of the suspension from Phil after August 10th which buys me time to get some small parts for the Ohlins. The M030 should be off any ready around that time as well.
Finally got the TE back, the shop did a really nice job. I�m not sure if I�ll be putting tires this year but I�m happy the rims are complete.
I did pick up the E88s from my buddy�s shop expecting the worst since one of the faces was cracked. After looking at each of the barrels and lips, no other cracks or bends and they�re indeed OEM BBS assemblies.
Nice. Through a long and complicated process mine finally materialized as well. What are your plans for refinishing the centers and barrels? I'm sure this isn't your first rodeo and these rims are so nice when done well.
After reading up on
@wdb
Leatherique thread, I decided to try it out. Let me tell you, it�s fantastic. The Rejuvenator sat for 3 days and it was slightly waxy/tacky before I used the Pristine clean and the warm water bucket technique for material removal.
Glad you got yours sorted out. The plan is to redo the centers in Diamond black, LMs come in this color.
Next would be polished lips and doing clear powder coating on the barrels and lips. Polished hardware as well, only weird thing I�m doing is Butzi�s center cap adapters with spinning BBS center caps in black/silver.
A buddy of mine took some impromptu pics at a meet up in Wynwood. The venue was really nice, it�s called Walt�s Grace. They sell cars, it�s a cafeteria and has a music inspired retro feel. I took these.
He snapped these and started a 996 �club� called Runny Eggs. Next week will be doing a breakfast event and a ride to Key Largo, some really really nice cars to include a couple Jahre�s, Turbos, GT3s and alike.
Thank you very much. The project is progressing pretty well, very fortunate to have found a good car to start with.
Man I�m happy to hear it. I messed up and didn�t get the exhaust when they were shipping to the US so I have to figure it out� maybe fly out to RPM in England and bring it back.
A buddy in our local group Porsche group chat mentioned that the original umbrella came in a leather pouch and linked an eBay repro.
Fit and finish is great.
Update from Classic 9, seat is almost done. He forgot to add the Sparco script in black so he�s going to get it done. I�m very very happy with the initial photos.
Nice! Almost useless but it makes things feel a little more 'finished'. I might have to get one. I picked up a warning triangle and rubber retaining straps for my Z4MC -- never used it -- but it filled up that funny indentation in the back of the car.
It�s definitely one of those �finishing� items that clean up a build. Here�s the link of you�re interested.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27565735098...mis&media=COPY
Went to a local event and convoyed to Homestead Motorspeedway. Had a great time and took the 996 on the track� felt great.
Also had an opportunity to do some paint correcting and apply ceramic coating on my buddy�s 40th Jahre.
Welp I'm back to work and looking at random stuff on the internet now. Reached out to RPM Technik and they're currently looking for ways to ship to the US, so for those who waited on the ducktail... there might be a chance here in the near future. The seat should be ready by the end of the month and off to my buddy's shop, I've lost 30lbs since purchasing the seat and hopefully I'm not swimming in it when installed.
Figured I�d show off some of my work. Played around with some more paint correction on my car since I�ll be officially doing paint correction and white glove detailing services. Stripped the old 3M ceramic coating, it was pretty durable but a single stage polish got it off. Used Shine Supply Classic + to achieve the shine I wanted.
After the Classic cut, I applied Classic Finish + in some areas. Pretty impressed with their system and its way more advanced than any of the Chemical Guy�s products. Last step was the Adam�s Ceramic application� It was a royal pain in the ***. Think the heat and humidity in my garage made the product go on like syrup and left high sports everywhere. Took a while but this is the end result.
Overall it looks pretty slick. Most of you all that wonder if the car is indeed really that shiny� it really is. I have about 5 cars waiting for me to return.
Last thing and not detailing related. Does anyone know how much a factory power seat(no heat) weigh? This is what a BBi base weighs, 16.2lbs
The seat with padding weighs around 13.2lbs so the total is 29.6lbs. Pretty excited to get working on the car, need to get some maintenance items done as well.
Helped a fellow 996 dude in CA with getting a set of E88s completed by giving him one of my rear faces because one of his cracked after being refinished. He can actually drive the car with some BBS goodness now rather than wait a year for the face to come off of back order. Another face was ordered so I�ll have two new rear faces. My E88 project will take another year to finally get the pieces together and sent to Ehrlich Wheel Works. Plan is to get them assembled and the faces painted in BBS black diamond. For as much as people say Motorsports wheels shouldn�t have center caps� BBS disagrees and has offered a set for ages. With that said, I�m waiting for Butzigear�s adapters to finally come back to stock and then get a set of floating BBS caps in black.
For now, the TEs have been sitting in the garage and the one that needed to be refinished was completed. The other three will need some touch up work and I�ll complete them with paint correction and a ceramic coating. On the fence on whether to remove the decals but will order a complete set from Ray�s either way. OG flat caps are on the way from System Motorsports. Had an itch to sell them but man I�ll keep them, several people have made some serious offers locally.
Feels good to finally start getting some of the projects wrapped up.
TE's does look good on anything!
I really wanted TE's on the 996 but the lead time was crazy
Looking forward to more updates btw, happy with the tail lights?
When were you looking at TEs? And do you happen to remember the sizes? I�ve heard conflicting stories in regard to what sizes were available at certain times. For a while you could only order 5x130 in any spec through dealers and the 18x11 and 18x11.5 being the �rarest�. Then came the Tire Rack TEs which came with 18x10 rears. My wheels are perfect in size for my particular car and took a risk because they came from a seller in Hong Kong. Thomson @ System needed all the wheel info to determine which cap I needed so for those who are following my thread and are actively look for TEs, keep that nugget of info in mind if you need caps.
The only complaint I have is the reverse lights seem dim, even with a bright LED upgrade. I�m eventually going back to OEM because I needed these asap, the ones that came with the car were damaged. First couple days of owning the car, I was pulled over for a good ol tail light. They�re nice looking for sure and the LEDs on the top strip are bright.
I wanted 18x8.5 and 18x11 - this was in April and they told me that I was looking at about 8-11 months.
Alright, keeping the stock tail lights then
Thanks for the info!
A Swedish dealer called DDesign (
www.ddesign.nu
)
Had both TE37s and CE28 on my old s2k, sucker for those wheels!
But like always, you can't have too many wheels. I might need a set of TE37 to alternate with the Kinesis
Just realized you�re in Sweden! I have 3 complete sets and almost a full parts kit for the E88s. For some reason I thought 5x130 TEs were discontinued in our offsets.
Thanks to
@TexSquirrel
, managed to add to my car�s weight loss journey. Until he posted the GT2/3 foam tray to remove the 996 spare� I had no idea. Here are the PN and are a SOP from Suncoast at this time but still available.
Finally getting around to amassing the parts for the suspension and some extra goodies. Matt at Tarett answered my random questions regarding the endlinks needed for my particular Ohlins set up. I�m keeping that rear GT3 endlink perch, sticking to the M030 sway bar combo, and refreshing the whole suspension.
The Ohlins I have are GT3 R&T that have about 15k mi of mixed driving(racing/street). Justin and Aaron suggested I get them inspected, that makes perfect sense. All they needed are the boots and the adjustment wrenches but an inspection is a good thing.
The extras are Meyle control arms to include the rear LCAs. The fronts are 997.1 forged adjustables with Tarett shims. Originally I wanted to do GT3 specs, one for one. As I mentioned a couple times before, it would be difficult to get in and out of my garage. I�ve been researching air cup kits for a while now after reaching out to some companies, I�ll just stick to Cargraphic for their cup kit. It�ll raise the car enough to get around obstacles.
One thing I wanted to add. For some reason I didn�t know that Tarett sold full shim kits. I priced them out individually and the price was about the same as the 22mm kit, here�s what�s included:
We package them in the more popular groups, 6mm, 16mm, and 22mm. More can be added separately, if desired. The 6mm kit includes 4mm & 2mm, two of each. The 16mm kit includes 10mm, 4mm, & 2mm, two of each. The 22mm kit includes 10mm, 6mm, 4mm, & 2mm, two of each.
Here�s the link to the kit.
https://tarett.com/products/lca-shim-package?variant=41441753432228
Below are the parts for the refresh:
997.1 Forged GT3 LCAs(front)
Demon Speed GT3 Outers
Meyle dog bones x4
Meyle forks
Meyle LCAs(Rear)
Meyle tie rod kit(inner/outer)
Tarett end links(F/R)
Tarett LCA shims
Sway bar bushings(F/R)
Used Ohlins R&T
Reached out to Cargraphic and I�m waiting for an updated price since the estimate is a year old and in �.
Ordered an E88 rear center from FVD on 3.12.2023 and they arrived almost exactly 9 months later this last Saturday. When I originally bought the E88 centers, lips and barrels� one of the rear centers was cracked. A dude I follow on IG was looking for a center and I decided to sell him my good rear one with the mindset that I�ll just order another rear and have two brand new rear centers.
For now I�ll go ahead and order the center this week, wait another 9 months before I can even start the E88 project. Not sure what color I�ll be painting the centers, my options are either red like my cage or diamond black(dark gray). The Diamond black is an OEM color for LMs and LMRs.
Either way the TEs will be going on with new tires. I was looking at Bridgestone RE71RS� in GT3 sizes or going back to PS2s in the same sizes. Overall the car will finally look the way I envisioned with the exception of a cup front bumper. My benchmark has been this pic for ride height.
The E88s will look fantastic...have you considered Weissach Gold as the color? It's really been growing on me. I actually considered getting my Apex wheels refinished in that color for a bit. For tires, PS4S come in GT3 sizes (it's what I run) and they have been fantastic. I have the PS2s on my OEM wheels for whenever I'm back at the track.
I think that color is pretty sweet, definitely one to consider. Since my cage is Guards, figured I�d have a matching red part. The diamond black will match my exposed carbon perfectly especially with the addition of the carbon hood.
As for the tires, I�ve only run PS2 and Super Sports on all my sports cars, the PS2 aren�t too bad in the rain but definitely not something I�d want to drive in the cold again after driving the Dragon.
Got any pictures of that? Chunk is going to be good no matter what he does. Red sounds bold, deep gray seems to be where he's leaning and that will look good too. it's hard because, honestly, silver can be very sophisticated.
I�ll get some color swatches while I wait. There�s a GT3 locally that has the classic E88 in gold and the soft gold would look nicer on my darker gray. We have a year to see.
I like where Chuck's head is at with the red logic. Here are 2 examples with respect to the gold I was talking about...
I think the red calipers peaking out from behind the gold is money. It's a very classy look IMHO that is understated enough but also different. With all the wheels you're collecting you should have plenty solid choices!
I�ve been contemplating selling my 380mm kit and rebuilding my OEM calipers. I like what Tex did and just add 2 piece rotors all around. If I do that the calipers will stay in dark gray.
Red wheels on a neutral colored base color work awesome,
especially
if you give them a light coating of brake dust. Major motorsport vibes even if you're not actually tracking/racing the car.
I love the RS style color theme. I don�t know how long you�ve followed this thread but the car does have a red Teq cage and a previous car of mine had a matching wheel/cage combo.
I�m still gauging whether to keep the TEs in black or go red on those. From an aesthetic standpoint, the face on 18� multi piece wheels are generally smaller than a mono block type wheel. I have another set of Gemballa mesh wheels that need to be refinished, whatever I don�t do to the E88s� I�ll do on the Gemballas.
My work schedule is constantly in flux due to world events and that keeps me gone longer, which in turn keeps me from participating in most events. I�d like to do a couple a year and my OZs would be the �track� set up.
Yes it is. I believe Porsche will paint your wheels that color when buying a new car and that's the name I've seen used before. I really like it as it's subtle enough but also different enough to catch attention of those that know.
Managed to dig this up in another thread. May call my
local automotive paint supplier to see if they can mix some up as they matched my black perfectly.
2023 was a crazy year. Spent almost 10 months out of the country and really couldn�t do much as far as car events are concerned. Hoping to tie up some loose ends and get several Porsche projects done. In addition to the suspension, these are on my �to do list� when I get home in March.
Rod from Classic 9 has the cover completed for the Sparco. This has been a loooong time coming, he finished the seat but forgot to add the �Sparco� script. That�s finished now and in a couple weeks he�ll be sending me completed photos of the seat. In addition to the seat, I�ll be getting a longer seat belt receptacle to run the buckle inside the seat. Dreading the *** pain of removing the seat belt bolt but it�ll give me an opportunity to clean some threads.
The previous owner swapped the engine mounts out to something stiffer. For as tight as my interior is� the sunroof rattles like hell. He did say it altered the shifting characteristics of the car, shifting to 3rd requires a tad extra effort. I did read about people getting RS engine mounts that are a nice middle ground in regard to OEM and Semi Solid mounts. This would be a good time to check transmission mount while down there swapping the cable ends to the Function First units. There�s a chance I�ll get the Manthey short shifter for the hell of it.
I reached out to a small shop via IG called C1 Composites about their carbon goods, they�re actually building a full carbon bodied 996.1 with a JDM Super GT flare. They gave an estimate for a hood and I�ll be getting one from them. It�s a very simple type and they�re made in the US, it matches the weave of the CSR ducktail and side mirrors. Some pics provided by them.
These will be side missions for the year but likely 2025 stuff.
- GT3 RS bumper
- Carbon cup rear bumper
- E88 completion
- Carbon roof
- Brake refresh
- CSR center exhaust
- Rennline Carbon intake
I�ll hold off on that at first because a proper harness will make its way in there. I�m just trying to decide whether to get a Willans, Sabelt or Scotch.
Apparently I didn�t get every thing I needed. My buddy reminded me that it would probably be a good idea to replace the sway bar bushings. According to the interwebz the M030 diameters are:
Front = 23.6mm
Rear = 19.6mm
Also learned the ROW is 20mm lower upfront and 10mm lower in the rear.
In addition to the bushings, I got a set of Bridgestone RE71S in GT3 sizes, if you order a set of 4 Bridgestones from TireRack, you�ll get a 110.00 visa gift card. With that said, Now I have everything needed. 55 more days to go then I�ll be working on the car.
Interesting diameters! I just went through the rather painful process of figuring out what to get in the way of RoW M030 sways. I think the rear is 20.9mm, never did find a stated diameter for the front. I'll measure it and post up when it gets here. (EDIT: I think the bushings will have the size molded into them...?)
The GT3 rears are 20.7 and the only difference really on the ROW spec is the Bilstien B6 vs the non ROW having B4. The sways are the same for both ROW and Non ROW. That�s what I read and I�ll measure when I get home.
Yeah, I had to take a good look at them in person at my local shop to make sure I was getting the "right" ones for me. There are alot of iteration, straps, bells and whistles. i just went with another set of sabelts. Really thought i was going to get set of shroths after looking at the pictures. In person it was a different story.
I had Willans in my Z, they were comfy and well built. My buddy owns Grid Partner and has access to all but the Willans. I�ll probably end up with the Sabelts in black.
That�s fantastic!! The 19.6mm black bushings from PowerflexUSA are back ordered for 4 weeks if you�re looking to buy them and the rear is actually 19.6mm.
These are the RoW M030 bars for the targa. I got bushings at the same time. As close as I can tell the new front bar is 24.0mm, up from the factory installed 23.5mm bar. The rear bar is 20.9mm, up from 19.8mm (according to PET). I think the cab and targa got slightly larger diameters due to being heavier than the coupe.
previous-owner here
Glad the car is still running strong, I was looking through the latest photos, you are taking good care of it
best car I ever owned.
Welp my next deployment is already set so my year is planned out. Right now I�m working with Simon at RPM Technik to get an invoice next week and start production on a CSR exhaust. The expected build time is 8 weeks. Pretty excited. I might do the mod that Aaron did on GT3-Ish or do this.
This dude is Porschekeven on IG. The lower section is from a 986 Boxster which looks good but unfortunately he didn�t mold it in and that�s why it looks kinda rigged. Ideally I�ll order the 996 GT3 RS bumper so both the front snd rear bumpers get painted at the same time.
RPM doesn�t offer the lower valence anymore and this photo was taken from a Goggle search.
Another random update. Went ahead and ordered the Works Bell short hub, Works Bell QD and the only Manthey part I could afford� the shifter. JHP supplied the hub and LN ordered the shifter. Figured if I�m going to change out the shifter ends, it would be a good time to fiddle with the shifter itself.
Working with RPM Technik can be frustrating, still waiting for an invoice to get the project going. Apparently they posted on IG that there will be no more CSR ducktails made� pretty sad.
Hi Joel
Let's not forget, these cars are 20 years old now, the first CSR ducktail was released nine years ago, and maybe closer to ten. Whilst RPMT have no doubt sold a good few 996 ducktails in the intervening years, I imagine that orders for them have slowed considerably since 2020. Part of that will be the pandemic, and part will be because they've become so ubiquitous, having one no longer ensures your car will stand out from the crowd.
Simon told me 18 months ago that the 997 ducktail tooling was incapable of producing components with the brake light aperture due to wear and tear, and the cost of producing a new tool was prohibitive and thus not financially viable. I wouldn't be at all surprised if the same scenario applies to the 996 tooling.
Which brings us onto the company that produces the ducktails for RPMT. They're heavily involved in manufacturing components for F1 teams, and when I spoke to them about producing some carbon fibre components 3 years ago, they were incredibly arrogant, dismissive and basically said that if I had a new project it would be 12 months before they could even look at it.
I've since found several other companies that are far more pleasant to deal with, and not beholden to F1. For the record, when and F1 team tells a supplier to "jump", the supplier simply asks "how high ?"
And finally ... the RPM Technik of 5-7 years ago has morphed into something altogether very different these days. Over the past 5-6 years they've dramatically increased the car sales side of the business, and since they became a Manthey approved agent, they appear to have, if not "abandoned" the CSR ethos (which let's not forget was always going to be limited to 50 cars) then they've certainly put them on the back burner whilst they carry out Manthey conversions on 981 & 718 Cayman GT4's, 991.1, 991.2 and 992 GT3's and GT3 RS's, all of which are tried and tested, and I suspect are available from stock at a moments notice, and the margins on supplying and fitting them will be "handsome".
They've also branched out into other conversions, such as undertaking "Touring" conversions on 991 and 992 GT3's cars (both adding rear seats and deleting rear wings)
This "Touring" rear seat conversion cost just over $20,000. ... As I said, they've "moved on" in a lot of ways ...
https://www.pistonheads.com/regulars...for-sale/47607
https://rpmtechnik.co.uk/porsche-sal...ng-conversion/
https://rpmtechnik.co.uk/blog/911-gt...-seat-install/
From a business/profit perspective, which would you rather deal with, the likes of Porsche by way of Manthey, or a backstreet supplier who says your order isn't particularly important because the F1 season starts in a couple of months time, and thus it will be 12-16 weeks before they produce the order for you ?
I think one of the Rennlisters on the 997 forum ? ordered a CSR ducktail, and when it arrived the finish was sub-optimal, he complained, but communication was poor (as you've found out, your contact at RPMT doesn't rush, I know, I too have asked for quotes, and they took weeks to appear ...) I can't remember what the outcome was, but it wasn't particularly satisfactory, and ended by RPMT saying that in future they wouldn't be shipping their carbon fibre components outside of the UK ...
All the above is by way of an explanation, they (the company) appear to have "moved on", to bigger and better (for which read more profitable and easier) things.
On the plus side, as I've said before, I know the individual who fabricates their exhausts, and rest assured, you're in good hands
The end result should be superb.
I�m not against trying new things. The install with the Shift Right kit is pretty easy. All your points are valid about RPM, just wish they were quicker especially since it�s going to take 8 weeks or so and I�ll be using a freight forwarding service.
Good to know, as everything can be improved upon
My guess is the sub-contractor that fabricates exhausts for RPMT will be busy, and has most likely quoted a month to six weeks to produce it. RPMT will be covering their a**es, and hence have quoted you eight weeks.
4 weeks to go and no response from RPM sooooo I�ll just move on to other things, reengage Simon at another time or at the end of the year. I have a crap ton of things I�d like to get done now anyway. With that said, I am getting the Cargraphic airlift like I mentioned waaay back in this thread. Micheal @ Cargraphic is confirming the kit as I type and they�re in stock so no waiting.
Dedicated some time to research how exactly the kit inflates the bags. The kit comes with 2 airbags, air hoses, air hose cutting tool, wiring loom, control box and an anti spin lanyard. Only thing that isn�t included is the air compressor that Porsche makes.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...OMPRESSOR.html
According to the instructions the kit is plug and play. The control box is essentially a receiver, you can use the provided fob or hardwire to a switch. The fob is just a two button transmitter, one button to air up and the other button to air out. The kit claims it�s a 3hr install and it�ll lift the car about 2.2�. The system will air out past 30mph.
Ordered a Rennline carbon airbox, they�re currently backordered. Since I have to remove the airbox to swap the engine mounts� might as well put something pretty in its place.
Love the airlift idea! I didn't know that the Porsche compressor would be powerful enough and up to the job but that's awesome! Sounds like you should be able to do a clean job installing and integrating it into the frunk.
Someone I follow on IG has it and it looked very nice. Think there was a thread on it here, got 10% off for signing up for emails or whatever it was to get the discount.
Without actually looking at it, I didn�t realize it was that particular air pump. Mine is no longer working so I�ll have to get one. All the vids have shown full inflation at about 15 seconds and I think that�s adequate.
Have a read of this Joel. If you're relying on the kit lifting the front of the car 2.2", you may find it lacking :
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...have-this.html
Very interesting. I did see that you can upgrade to a traditional tank + compressor. To be fair, I can get around pretty well at the M030 height and I�m aiming to get to GT3 factory height or even a GT3RS.
Maybe I won�t need a full 2.2� to get around? It�s really just to get into my garage as the Porsche is garaged kept.
Truth be known, at M030 ride heights, I think you�re in the sweet spot. Start going lower and that front splitter will take a beating.
I�m at GT3 RS height on the front of mine (and maybe lower) and I plan on raising it up at least 8mm, but possibly 10mm.
If my car was a ROW, I probably wouldn�t have upgraded because that is damn near perfect. A friend of mine with a 40th has a M030 ROW. I never noticed how different the ride height was until I detailed his car and it was parked next to mine while the ceramic coating cured. The only time the ride height becomes an issue is leaving my girlfriend�s housing community, there�s a rather steep decline that is my nemesis.
I�ve really heard nothing but good things about the 997 SSK so I�m sure it�s not far off of all the mods I�ve done and will do to mine. Think I�ll be at a good spot after I add the Manthey shifter with the new FF ends.
Cargraphic made the check out extremely easy, Micheal sent me a link via email and done. The USD to Euro conversion worked in my favor this time, pretty happy with Cargraphic�s communication from day 1. I reached out to them about 2.5 years ago, dealt with the same person and everything. With the addition of the Airlift, the suspension refresh will be 100% what I wanted from the early planning stages.
At this point I�ll probably do a full write up, hopefully we�ll get around 2� when air�d up. Most of the people that have done this were on Bilstein PSSs or factory GT3 cars. I can�t find info on anyone who has competed this project on Ohlins R&Ts. Also got a new compressor from Suncoast because the one that came with the car did not work. Ordered some oil filters from LN after the email was sent out, ended up getting their billet oil and coolant caps.
@De Jeeper
was nice enough to sell me his UAOS that was previously installed in his car before the GT3 swap which will go to
@Porschetech3
to bring up to current spec.
Looks like I�ll be getting home on time and after being deployed for 10 months last year with a short 2 month break� I�ll finally have 4 months off with some training events sprinkled in that time. Hoping to get this project started a week or so after getting home. I did send a deposit on a project car that should be sorted out pretty easily and would like to get the VW completed as well. I�ve had a Eurowise roof rack and bumper light bar sitting for almost a year.
Project car - B5 S4 Stage 3
Has a MAF issue and the previous owner has two other cars and didn�t want to continue to troubleshoot. A well respected shop recommended he go Standalone but he opted to try and find the culprit regarding the MAF. My good friend saw and drove the car, no weird sounds and all the big services were done� amazingly it�s not leaking oil. Have someone with a base ST3 tune that he has on his B5 coming over with a couple friends to get the Standalone installed and set up.
Ordered the Carbon hood from C1 Composites in Knoxville TN. We�ve been chatting throughout the deployment and today I sent payment. The clock starts now and it should be ready in 4 weeks, They�re also clear coating it prior to shipping. It is 100% made to order and all done in house.
@zbomb
made solid points and I�m going with Aero Latches instead of retention type Quik-latches. Pretty stoked about the hood.
It's a shame the place is so closed off. Too many people trampled that place and they had no choice. I remember, decades ago, walking up the steps of the Acropolis and checking things out. While around Athens, did you get a chance to scope out the sunset at Sounion (Poseidon's Temple)?
Man I didn�t get a chance and leave on Saturday. Sadly I�ve been on the ship most of the week upgrading our aircraft and getting a pass down ready for the Lead who�s replacing me. There have been a lot of mostly peaceful protests and Gov�t labor strikes so I�ve avoided the City Center. Very grateful for the experience considering we also stopped in Thessaloniki and Crete.
I will say one thing about people around the Acropolis, areas are cordoned off and tourists STILL tried going through the restricted parts. Saw some people trying to chip pieces of marble from the pathway. Overall it�s been impressive, considering it�s off season here. Should be home on the 17th.
Yeah, they are always striking about something overt here. Mostly peaceful, but sometimes stuff gets out of hand. My wife and I have been caught up in a few demonstrations, no harm. Yeah, Thessaloniki and Crete are nice and different from Athens. Thessaloniki is famous for the pastry Bougotsa and rightly so!!
We took a bunch of our guest last year down to the Acropolis. We hadn't been in several years and was really surprised, and pleased, that they opened up the lower grounds, which had been closed for as long as I can remember. The greek are trying to restore quite a few of their ancient sites, as well as the Acropolis and they don't tolerate theft. If you get caught, you go to jail. The only thing we don't like about Greece is all the graffiti and the trash. It's everywhere !!
Safe trip back.
Yeah I know what you mean, a group of us were staying at the Grand Wyndham just north of the Acropolis� not the greatest area. Of the 3, the sites were nicer in Athens but my favorite has always been Crete. Been there a couple dozen times and still my favorite. Last time we did the Samaria Gorge, Elafonisi and Cave of Sofia.
I very much enjoyed my visit to Athens a few years ago. Anytime I visit a major city, doesn't matter the country, I kind of expect to get a mixed bag which will include some social economic issues, graffiti and dirty areas. I mean have you been to Paris? lol. If you're in Greece again and want something different with a slower more chill pace, I highly recommend renting a car and staying in Nafplion and using that as your home base for day trips. I absolutely loved it. Amazing atmosphere and hospitality. A trip to the Ancient Theatre at the Asclepieion of Epidaurus was a sort drive away with many other cool places in the area that are off the beaten path.
Haven�t been to Paris but only been to France via the Med. I won�t know if I�ll be in this area again as my next area of work is the West Pacific which is my least favorite with the exception of Japan. My deploying days are coming to an end here in the near future. Want to do more stuff in the US while I still can.
It�s a Evo Carbon XL and had it reupholstered by Classic 9 to match the steering wheel they also did a while back. At the time it was the first one sold in the US and the �performance� option with the nicer cover wasn�t available. Have everything I need minus the harness and the longer seat belt buckle.
I had a really good time and the Greeks were very good to me. Right now I�m staying in a hotel in Piraeus and my flight leaves Athens tomorrow.
Been home for 2 days now and started going through the boxes and organizing, getting an inventory going. Heading to my buddy�s shop to pick up the rest of the parts, I ship bigger items to him.
@lnengineering
Came through with billet coolant, oil caps, and the Manthey shifter.
I know it�s JDM but this HKS shop mat is one of my favorite accessories.
Got enough oil filters for a looong time.
Picked up my girl�s kid from school today, he asked if I could pick him up in the Porsche� he was so happy to have his school mates looking at him as he got in. Looking to start tearing the suspension out when in get back from Disney next week.
I picked up the seat from the shop. Extremely happy with the work, each stitch and panel looked very clean all the way around. If I can slip away from some post deployment online events from work, I hope to get the seat mounted onto the base and test fit.
I�m not swimming in the seat but it�s not snug, surprised how wide it was and probably could�ve gone with a L vs the XL. Overall I�m happy with it.
I have Sparco QRT Performance seats which are a little too wide for me. When I drive on track I take out the bottom cushions for lower seating position and fold up a towel to fit beside my hip and the seat.
Do you have/want a harness bar?
I�m so stoked to get the project rolling(no pun intended), still have a couple days to go before some of the items make their way inside the car. Snapped a pic of the airlift cup� looks pretty damn cool.
The Audi is finally at the house.
Love a b5! Never had an s4, which I really wanted at one point and they could be had CHEAP back then. Drove one once, but couldn�t commit cuz it was auto, so no go for me, but I loved it. I had 2 b5 a4�s, one was 1.8T, the other was the 2.8. Great time for those cars. Enjoy!
I�ve always had a soft spot for them. My childhood best friend had a 1.8T in gray with the two tone interior and it was the car I did my driver�s test in. Ordered a standalone today and should have it at 100% here soon.
At this point in time it�s hard to find clean b5s in general, let alone a clean manual s4�they certainly command a premium now. I�ve always dreamt of a S4 Avant, I�ll take B5,6 or 7 lol
Surprisingly they�re more available than the more desirable 996 and E46. There was one for sale on this forum which made me start looking for one. The hard work has been done on the one I bought, all Stage 3 parts installed and a couple small maintenance items. I�d like to upgrade the wheels, brakes and suspension eventually.
The 996 is essentially almost done with the exception of the RS bumper and the E88s that need to be rebuilt.
Assembled the BBI seat rail and got that seat mocked up. Waiting for the extended seat belt receptacle to get here before tightening the base up.
Here�s the seat in the base, it�s set all the way up so I can adjust the base to the rails.
Lastly I ceramic coated the Rennline intake, I�ll be installing everything this week:
Intake
Pulleys
Engine Mounts(993 RS)
Manthey SS + shifter ends
Seat
My projects are a little delayed because some kid hit my VW. 14yr old minor with no insurance, no license and the moped has an expired tag.
The art:
The Artist:
Thanks and the silver lining is the whole front end is getting repainted next week.
Dude we gotta meet up! I�ll be leaving late June and don�t have anything going on.
Man I think there are about 10 people who ask me daily!
The mobile guy I use has mounted a million of them because he does track support at Homestead. He was legit finished in 20mins, very good dude.
Hah, the once and only time I used the mobile tire rack service was for the RE71RS tires. They could mount them but couldn't get them sealed. They then took them to the local Doscount tire and they couldn't do it either. Then I them took them to my indy which always does my tires and they got em done pretty fast. I learned my lesson to go with the pros. Tire Rack was pretty embarrassed and cover both install costs.
But the tires are worth it. Stiff sidewalls which I like but comfortable on the street for 200w with very good grip from the start. Excellent on the track. dont know how long they will last but i will buy another set when they are gone.
Finally got around to installing some of the copious amount of crap I have sitting around the house. Installed:
- Rennline Carbon Airbox
- 964 RS Engine mounts
- Tensioner pulley
- TE37 wheels
The airbox was kinda a little more of a pain in my *** and I think it might have to do with the ducktail. It touches the air pump frame so there�s a little rub there.
Tried �fine tuning� the placement and scuffed the lower portion but it�s not visible when installed. Left it alone but I�ll revisit moving the air pump out of the way.
The engine mounts are from Rennpart and called the �RS� style upgrade.
https://rennpart.com/product/rs-engine-mount-upgrade/
They went in easily, no issues and I think there were semi solids installed because after the test drive� the car is a lot smoother AND the shifting isn�t as notchy. I enjoy this upgrade(or downgrade) for the sake of smoothness.
The tensioner replacement is one of those obvious R&R items on our cars. Mine had some gouges and a stress crack so it was time. Lastly the wheels were a breeze. She really needs to get lowered but for one reason or another, I�ve been busy or just not feeling like it. It�s 0220 so I didn�t get any other pics of the wheels other than this one.
That intake looks... purposeful.
Reach out to Evo Motorsports for their secondary air pump relocation bracket. They don't list it on the website but I emailed them and they were happy to sell me one.
https://www.evoms.com
Kudos on the engine mounts. I've had them installed for a long time and they do a great job of tightening things up without overdoing it. They will actually settle in a bit, as it's rubber and feel even better over time.
Good to hear and the initial ride was very good. The shifter might go in tonight and honestly the engine mounts really did make the shifting that much better.
I think this is it?
Joel, wheels look incredible on the car. Sometimes it's hit or miss with black wheels and grey paint. This looks like a perfect match with colors and wheel design.
But I am a sucker for the color of your car as well as seal grey. Black and carbon fiber accents give the grey 996s a very cool look. They mean business.
I don't think your car needs to be any lower, but then I don't live where you live. I have to crab walk in and out of my driveway as it is!
Mine is painted black -- no really, it's black under all that dust:
The stickers are a little too much for me so I might remove them. Once the carbon hood goes on, feel it�ll complete the look. Now I�ve run into a different problem, the hood will not open no matter how hard I pull on the emergency cable or push the electric hood release.
I think it�s either disconnected or wrapped around something.
Welp I took the car to a trusted Indy here in Miami. Talked him through all the steps I did and he was able to open it from the bottom but the actuator gave up the ghost AND the cable wasn�t connected somehow. Good news is the Works Bell will be in the car by way of the Indy and I can start getting the suspension on.
The latch failed so if I were you, I�d pop the bumper off to confirm routing of the emergency cable AND that the actual cable is connected to the mechanism.
If your latch is starting to stick even after you lubed the mechanism� I�d probably get a new latch. Otherwise you�ll have to engage the mechanism from the bottom which I heard was a pain in the ***.
Rather than mess around with the one I had, I bought one from EVOMS. They took about a week to respond but was quick to send an invoice and ship, thanks for the info. Now I�ll need to clean up the scuff and polish it out� might add PPF.
@TheChunkNorris, fancy meeting you here 😂. It's me, cqhall from ClubTouareg.
Seems we have even more in common, hahaha. I was at EPG last week. I've known Brian for decades from back when he originally opened that shop and was working on VWs. He's a great guy. I'm also a recovering sneaker addict (mostly Dunks and Air Max 1s).
Sup, man!
really.......how bought u start on those coilovers. One of these days im just gonna knock on your door and stare at u uncomfortably untll u slide the jack under the car.
Ha! Currently in Hood River and then Salt Lake for training. The hood release is done and I will be starting the suspension on the 11th.
Hey Brother!! Brian was good to me when picking up the cage.
Bingen, ha, that makes Hood River look like the big city. Speed limit is 25 so I recommend you go 22. That's just what I remember. Especially if you've had a couple. Which happens.
It's nice country. Lots of twisty bits.
Oh I�m familiar and thank god I�ve never gotten in trouble with the authorities. Been coming here two to three times a year for the last 15yrs, I work for the big UAV company here.
I will say they have me staying in the Columbia Cliff Villas for the first time and it�s a beautiful accommodation. We usually stay at the Best Western or vacation rentals in the area.
Out and about right now. This is what I look like. Not exactly a glamour shot but Wave me down if you see me coming.
This was at the lions den barber shop, walking distance west of your hotel/villas, around 6 tonight so we may have crossed each other if you were coming back from Bingen around then.
Just drove by the villas and wondered if I would see you, then I realized I hoped I wouldn't. My car is a mess. Needs attention. With you in Town I have this urge to wash it. And maybe learn how to correct it, or correct myself, or both. Every time I think about doing that kind of stuff I think maybe I'll just go for a drive while I have a chance and work on it later. I'm a bad dad.
It does okay though. When I came out of the post office just now there was a 20-Year-Old that wanted to know about it but he was pretty much speechless. All he could say was It looked good, was it a manual transmission and what year was it. I apologized to him for not being currently washed/ waxed but it didn't matter to him him. He said he just wanted to hear it. Thank goodness it started right up and I didn't get hit by a bus pulling out into traffic. Out of the corner of my eye I could see he had his phone out was videoing me as I took off so I flashed A Steve McQueen peace/ victory sign out The passenger window.
Someday I hope to have my car at least part way to where yours is.
Man I had to leave early and left on Thursday afternoon. I�ll def look you up when I�m there next and I�m sure your car is just as put together as mine! The per diem is Hood River is higher than Salt Lake so rather than fly me home for two days and then back, they decided to let me stay an extra couple days before training begins on Monday.
Two mini updates to the longest period of not doing anything to the car as long as I�ve owned it.
@De Jeeper
told me about 3DM for Ohlins suspension components and that�s where I got some small parts. Whilst looking at some parts today, I found that they offer a dampening extension specifically for the Bose system.
https://3dmmotorsport.com/collection...e-sound-system
Do I need it? Absolutely not BUT I got it anyway, one less thing I need to undue if I ever needed to change a setting. With the cage in the way� I don�t want to go back there to do anything after the install.
The other update was from C1 Composites. It�s really nice having a part being made specifically for you and they sent some pics of the hood out of the mold.
Obviously it�ll need some trimming, sanding and the added clearcoat. I appreciate the updates.
Lastly, the seat will be going in soon as well. The 997 extended seat belt receptacle will not work with the Sparco so I have one if anyone needs one. Ordered an extension from FVD and anchor points from Rennline.
I have the hardware for the receptacle as well. The same day the OEM seat comes out to make getting behind the cage easier to remove the Bose box� the Sparco will go in its place. The hardest part will be undoing the lower seat belt end to correctly run it through the lower opening of the seat.
I feel so confident that I�ll get the suspension installed that has been in my possession for 2yrs now, I�ve made an alignment appointment on the 21st which includes a corner balance.
hey chunk the seats you have going in are they maxspeed carbons I installed the same a few months back but the seatbelt receptacle is a bit short lmk part numbers for the extended one please
So I�ve been working on the car when the time has presented itself and the rears are in and the fronts should be in by tomorrow but I�ll update my progress here. Rears went in pretty easily with the exception of removing the Bose sub with the cage in place. The initial damping setting is +10 from soft.
The fronts are going in pretty easily as well. Only thing that has me a little annoyed is the Cargraphic instructions. The bag has a tether to keep the unit from spinning and in the instructions it shows there should be a 10mm bolt in the wheel well atea and I�d thread a nut over the tether. The only bolt there is for the cowl cover and that would mean whenever I undue cowl� the tether would also be undone. I�m going add a dedicated bolt for the tether.
The assembly is topped with a Tarett strut mount and currently set to high camber with the LCA using a 3mm shim for now. The air hose is run through the strut base and into the frunk compartment. I�ll be running the hose to the unit tomorrow but will either slot and grommet the hose coming off the air cup or drill a hole in the strut mount plastic cap and run it through there.
@De Jeeper
has been helping me out and suggested the slot idea so once I get the air hose ran and fittings secured, I�ll see what the best option will be.
I totally forgot to order the front LCA fork and they�ll get here next Wednesday. The plan is still to get everything installed so I can set the ride height, check air cup function and then recheck torque values. Need to have the car at my Indy by June 10th for alignment and race inspection for a PCA DE event on the 22nd.
Next steps:
- Manthey SS install
- Seat install
- Evo air pump relocation
- Hartech x Slakker sump install
Charles from
@lnengineering
has been great in answering some basic track prep questions so I recommend reaching out to him if you have questions. He told me to use XP6 for high track temp days and it should be around 90� ish ambient temp with probably 100� track temp for my event on the 22nd. This will be my first real instruction in the car and will keep an eye on oil pressure as the turn off the back straight is an engine killer at HMS.
glad to see the car getting race suspensions
I recommend you a VERY good alignmetn show down in miami
http://www.apexalignment.com/about.html
they do mostly race cars, but they will certainly be VERYhandy with a setup like yours...which is going to be TRICKY to setup correctly.
Best of luck.
Thanks Phil! My initial alignment will be at Weissach but Apex will do the corner balance because he�s going to ask a bunch of questions regarding my �needs� and you and I both know� I don�t know. The plan is to do a GT3ish initial set up and we�ll work off of that once I learn what type of driver I am. Gotta let you drive the car before leaving in July.
Sneak peek of the car post coilovers installed.
The suspension install wasn�t bad at all especially since I didn�t reuse anything. Currently running the air and power for the air cup kit.
Should be done tomorrow and fine tuning the ride height on Thursday, then leaving the to get aligned on Friday. Pretty happy with how it�s coming together.
The Hartech x Slakker sump arrived yesterday should be in the car next week or so. Overall it looks good.
The last things are the bucket seat and Manthey shifter, just in time for the PCA DE event.
Wow you are making good progress. I feel like a slacker. I'd better buy the tire valve caps I've been wanting and get them installed... so at least I've done something. Ha!
The world�s greatest teacher is pain or financially responsible for something you damaged. In my haste to get the car on the ground and to the Indy� I didn�t check the passenger rear endlink length and it bent the sway bar.
My gf is convinced I did it on purpose to upgrade the sways and ended up with a set of Tarett GT sways that get here on Wednesday. In the meantime, I�m going to triple check everything so I don�t keep myself up at night.
Anyway, the Manthey shifter install was pretty straight forward. The whole assembly is machined and with the Function First Shift Right kit, all the parts in my shifter are aluminum now.
It�s back in the car and I�m waiting for an alignment clip because I can�t find any of the ones I had at the house. Connected the cables just to see what it would initially feel like, it made a tremendous difference but I�ll need to drive it to get a definitive impression.
Last thing for this update are the pads. The instructor who�s instructing me recommended using Ferodo DS2500s so I ordered a full set along with 3 Liters of Castrol SRF. Still aiming to have the car aligned and Tech inspected this weekend.
Finally rolled the car out of the garage for a termite inspection. The sways get here tomorrow but this is what she�ll look like.
Trying to get the sways in quickly(and safely) and at the shop by Friday or Saturday. The shifter is fantastic! The Function First shift right kit really removed the inintial slop and the Manthey removes the rest. The shift is direct, can�t wait to row through all the gears.
Here it is, final adjustments have been done and it�ll be at the shop tomorrow. I�m still hearing a clunk up front so I�m going to check the jam nut on the endlinks and the spring perch to make sure the spring is set correctly on the perch.
I bled the brakes and waited tooo long to complete but it�s done now. Used a Motive bleeder and it worked as advertised. Going to start doing this annually now that I�m using Castrol SRF.
The last thing was the shifter adjustment. The Manthey shifter is a solid upgrade. There is zero plastic parts in my shifter now other than plastic ends, the shifter has a more pronounced angle away from the driver.
Learned a lot and feel like I know the car a tad better.
She�s ready!! I didn�t mess anything up and Weissach Motorsports had the car aligned in a couple days. First impressions driving the car was extremely positive.
What�s better than installing a suspension and then hitting the track? Nothing.
She was an absolute monster! The initial suspension was damn near perfect, my instructor recommended 2 clicks firmer on the Ohlins up front. Brakes and tires were spectacular, felt great at speed. HMS is mostly left turns with some decent straights. Extremely happy and learned a lot.
Love it! But...what are those cars behind you with those ugly headlights. They look like eggs
The 996 looks so good on the track and happy all the work put into the suspension has paid off.
Ha! I did get passed a couple times but mostly was doing the passing. My instructor told me that having the RE71s was damn near cheating with how the car was set up� and running in the Green group. It was really fun, I�ll probably be in blue group next time. Really looking forward to next year because I want to do Sebring.
Thanks brother! I would like to do it more often.
Hung out with my 996 homies and drove down to Key Largo for breakfast. flat6Rebel snapped some pics of the car and man they came out great.
The car is up on the QuickJacks now and the oil is draining out for the sump removal tomorrow. Looking forward to installing the Hartech x Slakker sump and fresh filter. Probably should�ve done the sump install before the PCA event but oh well, time is a premium I don�t have sometimes. The XP6 came out pretty clean and no sludge on the LN magnetic drain plug.
glad to see the car back at homestead, I took that car there many many times. It's all good, just be carefull on turn 10, that's the only risky turn as you get confident. But perfect trackf or the car, and I never missed a bit there. have fun
Finally installed the Hartech x Slakker in the car today. Initially when ordering, Brandon reached out to and asked iff I had a factory baffle. He provided one and was very helpful through the process. If you do go ahead and get one, there are a couple things you need to do. I either trashed the install instructions or misplaced them, you�ll need to trim some plastics.
You�ll need to trim the factory baffle and depending on which oil drain/aeration tubes, one of the variants will need to be trimmed as well.
Here�s the upgraded tube that won�t require trimming.
The finished product:
The install is straight forward once you get the trimming done. 15 to 20mins of actual trim time and maybe 30mins of installation time. There are some o - rings on the end of the draining tube that you should probably look at, mine were in good shape.
Are the 2 holes at the bottom ports for being able to install a protective shield? Nicely done and of course love the witness marks on the bolts. It's the little stuff.....
I believe they�re part of the casting process. I did come across a thread on another forum about the LN shield clearing the sump.
*upon looking at the install thread� the LN will not work as the build page was on a 98X Cayman.
I believe it�s 2qts. Filled the oil today and it shows full via the digital display and dipstick at 10qts of DT40.
The Slakker looks good and there�s data to support it as a viable upgrade. Need to get my UAOS from
@Porschetech3
and that�ll be installed next year.
Good news on the 2qts. With the UAOS track you will be able to run 12 qts of oil using a 2qt sump. I just ran that amount a week ago on the track and the engine & UAOS handled the volume without a problem. Oil pressure looked very good as a result.
I�m glad to hear that. The design of the Hartech looks pretty cool to me. The plan is to do Sebring next year and it�s a loooong track so these brings should help.
On advice
@wdb
gave me, I bought a EVOMS air pump bracket to get the air pump away from the intake pipe. 10min install but now I need to polish out some scratches on the intake.
Before:
After:
The bracket moved pump a couple inches or so.
Welp I leave for work on Monday and this is last pic I�ll have before she goes into hibernation for 4 months.
I�ll be taking the TEs off and putting the OZ�s back on, she had a fresh oil change as well. Should be back by Jan/Feb 2024 and I�ll have to troubleshoot the Cargraphic Airlift kit, currently working with them and we�re at the point where I need to replace the relay. It won�t get here in time so we�re a good stopping point.
The carbon hood arrived it�s unfinished, I�m just glad it arrived and so rather than bitch about it� I�ll finish it myself.
The weave is straight and the plane is flat, all things that makes it a salvageable project. The idea would be to add one layer of resin to level it. If that comes out how I think it will� it�ll stay naked. If it comes out like crap� then we�ll paint. The thing weighs 10lbs!
Hopefully I�ll be home in time for Sebring next year. Think there�s a DE event in Feb/Mar and I�d like to be there for that.
Man I promise to let you drive her when I get back in January. My schedule has been trash because of work.
The job has been stressful as of late and next year will determine if I continue this type of work. January will be 16yrs and I�ll have 120 months deployed in that time. In the words of John Coffey� �I�m tired, Boss�.
Bro that�s humbling coming from you so thank you, your car is amazing. Think we�re almost done.
-RS front Bumper
-Cup rear
-RPM Technik Exhaust
-Race seat
-OEM brake refresh
Then she�s done, only upgrade would be the 4.1 Slakker and it�s not in the cards for me.
I know the bigger sump adds to the overall engine size and today was the first time I parked the car ***-in the garage. After swapping the wheels, I had to reposition the car to fit the VW. As I was coming out�the pan took a chunk of the flooring with it.
Yep, this is why on the UIDS I designed it with 1/2 inch more ground clearance than 2 qt center pick-up sumps ,with a Delrin bump stop on 911 models...
Ground clearance is critical on ALL 996's and even more so on lowered versions..
I doan no bout you guys, but I have to be able to get my floor jack under the car to do "stuff". Speed and DE stuff are OK, but going beyond (decreasing) reasonable height limits is just out of the question for me. Heck, some say their "Quick-Jacks" won't even fit under the car. What?, do you need F1 air-jacks installed to get the car up to do something (and OHHH, ADDED WEIGHT PENALTY..) (woe is us!) and so on. Maybe just weld a titanium loop hook to the roof and pull it up on a HD-hoist? Nonsense, (maybe.. it's only $$$) but that's the idea.
YMMV
I can get my 7k quickjacks under my car without issue. Even if I did have a clearance issue, my Airlift(when working) lifts my car about 2� up front. The car is currently at GT3 height.
Making four 1 foot long 2x12 wood blocks with a dove-tails to drive up on for lifting Porsche's is common practice in all shops that work on these...and with DIY'ers ...Some of these cars are always lower than can fit on lifts without the drive-on blocks...
Edit : if fact there is a Porsche made special tool part for these, but they cost ~ $1200 usd...lol ( I think they must be made of some Exotic Tropical hard-wood that is aged 100+ years )
The real problem with these lowered cars is for normal street driving and getting in/out of driveways , gas stations, and curbs...not so much on the Track where everything is built for them....
PS : try driving a Carrera GT on the street, you need a "spotter" going ahead of you to warn of dangers...lol
I have a set of those that have served me well for many years. I also have homemade 2x12 "pre-ramps" to get my long-nosed cars onto my regular ramps. Haven't needed them in a while, since I got the lift, but I still use the wheel blocks.
I need a spotter for the Caterham -- I've mangled TWO oil pans already!
How tall/large of a person could sit comfortably in the Caterham? Love the look and idea of cruising in one, but I'm 6'4" 230ish. Sat in a Cobra replica about 20 years ago. Knees pressed into the dash and face completely above the windshield nixed the idea of ever owning one of those.
It�s been a while, connectivity is garbage where I am at the moment and it�s about to get worse here soon. Pretty much going to concentrate on the small things when I get back in late Feb next year.
- Sabelt Titan race seat/Sabelt harness
- Fix the Cargraphic Airlift kit
- Rebuild Brakes + 2 piece rotors all the way around
- OEM tail lights
- Prep carbon hood
The Sparco seat is too wide and I have a good source for Sabelt products, their warehouse is local in Miami� Hence the Sabelt choice. Still in the process of trouble shooting the Cargraphic airlift, it�s not engaging but you can hear an audible �click� when you push the lift function on the fob.
This is how she sits now.
I put Girodisc rotors on the targa. Be aware that the rears are about a pound
heavier
than the stockers. The extra swept area is still nice, and they look good too.
Annnnd just like that my deployment is extended out to March so the list will be a tad bit longer for next year. In addition to the small things I have listed above, a Cargraphic Super Sound exhaust will replace the Fisters I have now. I rode in a .1 with a Fabspeed and it sounded so much smoother than mine, a little higher pitch but zero drone inside the car. One thing I'm pretty excited for exterior-wise is a GT3RS bumper, seems pretty wasteful to buy one considering I already have an Aero bumper but man... it looks pretty cool and there's a plan to maybe create a stencil for the top vents now that I have a real bumper for reference. Kinda wanted to cut the slit out of the radiator openings and give it the CSR look but we'll see, the bumper isn't cheap.
Next thing that was on my mind was the race seat. The Sabelt will definitely work however I've lost 20lbs these last 4 months and 45lbs since I bought the Sparco Carbon XL, mostly in my hips/legs. My buddy had a set of Sparco QRT-R seats in his shop and surprisingly my fat *** fit in them... snugly but I fit and that was 20lbs ago. I measured myself recently the way the Sparco rep recommended:
Lay on your side and put a book or something flat on the opposite hip, then measure from the floor to the outside of the book and that's a rough measurement.
I measured at 13.5"(2" off my last measurement... pretty proud of that actually) which had me looking at other seats. Think I'll end up with a Recaro ABE(15.3"), I'm not tall at 5'9" so I believe a harness will fall over my shoulders correctly. There's a shop semi local to me that has some and once I get off this floating prison of shame, I'll see if I indeed fit. Spent most of a day looking at seat dims for popular seats and I envy the skinny people because most of the seats I liked were definitely smaller.
Really really need to get the calipers rebuilt, the seals are toast and the grommets on the lines disintegrated during the suspension install. Depending on how many cars I have to detail when I get home, just might do the rebuild myself. Miami winters make for good detailing weather but having an air conditioned garage is very nice for paint correction. Ideally the car would be on QuickJacks for a week. Should probably get new rear tires and swap the RE's onto the OZs and make the TEs my new daily wheels or rebuild the Gemballas... so many options for wheels.
Today is my 4 year anniversary owning the car, crazy to see how far she's come and so thankful I found the exact options I was looking for. Extremely grateful for the whole experience and would like to do more track events and driving activities. Think she'll be 95% done next year when the E88s are built, waiting for the last face now. Only other thing the car would probably get would be new headlights and the biggest ticket item in a Slakker 4.1 but we're talking a long ways out for that.
Just bought my rear caliper rebuild kit from
@Ohio Performance
. Kinda like how he sourced his new kits and they r offering a 10% discount. Hopefully my front caliper kit will get stocked soon. Email communication was very quick as was shipping.
https://rennlist.com/forums/performa...t-updates.html
Ended up getting the full piston rebuild kit for the fronts and the seals for the rear via Ohio Performance with the link provided by DeJeeper. Also got a set for my 18Z Brembo upgrade for my Audi S4... need to stop buying cars that need full brake work. Haven't done a caliper rebuild since Auto Tech school and I have all the required tools for the build, gives me a chance to do the annual brake fluid swap as well a full hardware refresh.
The other update is I ordered the Cargraphic Super Sound exhaust from Flat6 Motorsports, they've been good to me in the past and the FVD is providing the install kit. At this point I assume everything is corroded or needs to be replaced. The kit comes with all new clamps, nuts/bolts, and gaskets. I have no idea what cross pipe is in there... don't think I've ever looked, good time to inspect it. Feel pretty confident I'll get most of my 2025 list done before I redeploy in the June/July timeframe.
Sadly I need to work on my other cars too. The VW is getting:
Eurowise Roof Rack
Eurowise Trigger controler
Eurowise Ditch Light mounts
Baja Squadron Lights
Kerma TDI intake
The Audi:
Full suspension refresh
Full brake refresh + Brembo 18z fronts and B7 Rotor kit in the rear
MaxxECU install
My ADD is strong so I'll have to prioritize the cars with the VW being first, she's my daily. Porsche requires the least amount of work(surprised for sure) and the Audi is 25yrs old, the suspension is the one it rolled off the assembly line with.
Let me know if you have any questions on the rebuild! I’ve done plenty of 18Z setups for the E46 platform.
B5 S4 FTW! Reminds me of the old AWOT days.
Mike
OPS
Shoot- I could have thrown a little bottle in the kit - I stopped putting the dropper bottles in about 4 years ago - USPS...
I only use caliper assembly fluid on the piston and never anything on the dust boot! Keep that nice and clean!
On the 18z sometimes they are a little finicky if they have been painted incorrectly. If you have any trouble, get a q-tip and wet it with hairspray. Use that q-tip to wet the outer part of the dust boot and it will then pop right in saving your fingers a lot of pain.
M
@Ohio Performance
What do u recommend for piston lube. Some choices on the internet but its hard to figure out whats correct. I see brembo has a product in single use servings. Maybe u can carry a product like that and u can sell/ship with the piston kits?
You're reading my mind! Frenkit does have their own single serving bags they put in their non-performance kits. I plan on including them in the future if at all possible!
I have so much of this left over.
No worries at all, I can get the brembo lube pretty easily and thanks for the tips! I don�t plan on painting the 18z�s so hopefully they won�t be too much trouble.
I've been looking for sound clips of the Cargraphic Super Sound exhaust and haven't really heard many but heard an open valve vid and it sounded amazing. My car has a 200CEL X pipe with a set of Fisters, she sounds great above 5k rpm but pretty quiet under that. Since she's the 2nd or 3rd car, I don't mind the extra noise but definitely looking to avoid drone inside the cabin. I noticed the X pipe options are either cat'd or uncut'd, is there just a resonated X pipe? Cargraphic sells a 100CEL X pipe and I guess it's the closest what I'm looking for.
I've been trying to find a ducktail with the rear vent, finally remember yours had it after re-reading your thread again, and then finding out they no longer make them. lol! I am still hopeful to find one of these ducktails for my 996 C2.
Your car looks outstanding, the carbon bits really match well with the gray, and the attention to detail is amazing. I also really dig that you have multiple sets of wheels to showcase just how different they make the 996 look. The TEs and BBS are my personal favorites. Nice job.
Man I think there was one unit after mine that made it stateside for a 996 but as far as I know, my Evo is the only one that made it over and I get it� the price of admission was high when people were less likely to drop that cash.
As far as the wheels are concerned, I�ve owned every wheel live liked on many cars over the years and the TEs are timeless with the E88s being my pinnacle Motorsport wheel. I think most wheels look good on our cars.
Yes!!! I bought my cage from him. Glad to see the car remained untouched.
Welp just like that... the exhaust arrived at my buddy's shop. Fedex can be wild sometimes, I received a notification that the package would be delayed due to the weather and it arrived the next day. My buddy said the box was pretty light so just like most of the other items I've added or removed... they'll be weighed. Just realized that with the removal of the exhausts, I'll have access to the spark plugs and coil packs. The car has closer to 60k miles and I haven't replaced them, priced a set from LN so they'll make their way into the car since I'm in there.
Pretty sure I'll be home the first week of March and will be installing the exhaust shortly thereafter since we're taking a family vacation to visit the Grand Canyon at the end of the month. This deployment was only supposed to be 4 months but ended up being almost 7, my next deployment is in June and I've been assigned. Going to try to drive the 996 as much as I can this time around, our group has plans to visit the Revs Institute in Naples FL and I'm pretty excited considering I've visited the Brumos Collection in Jacksonville.
I read somewhere in original P-testing that the "raising rear spoiler" (standard one) does it's job of reducing lift.....but.....it also allows more cooling air into engine compartment. Have you noticed any temp differences with a non-movable spoiler? Curious.
Hmmmm I don't know how much I buy that simply because the spoiler goes up at speed and not in conjunction with the fan. In my mind, If it did provide better cooling then it would deploy in stop and go traffic or when the fan was actuated. I've only owned this car with the aero spoiler and the CSR, the OEM lid is boxed up in my shed. She's done some parade laps and one track day without missing a beat, the CSR does a fantastic job with hot air in the engine bay especially in Miami where it's hotter than the surface of the sun.
My buddy who accepts mail from me sent me pics of the exhaust box and the FVD. Ordered OEM tail lights from Suncoast. For as much as the Spyders look �cool�, the OEM .2 are my favorite of all 996.X tails. The other thing that�s sitting in a cart is the OEM Porsche rear seat delete plugs. I could�ve sworn I ordered a set a couple years back but never found them. Can�t wait to get working on the car again.
While poking around on the GT3 forum I stumbled upon a post of a Joe Toth 2 piece GT3 lip and thought to myself� since I have the air lift kit� why not see what this would look like with the GT3 RS bumper?
https://demonspeed.com/product/split...rsche-996-gt3/
pic taken from Demonspeed
It�ll look strange with the Ducktail but I dig it.
I learned about Joe Toth kits from this BaT auction:
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...urbo-coupe-48/
I found these pics of a 996 C46 with a Joe Toth 3-piece lip + side skirt set on the web and saved them because I dig the look. I can't recall where I got these pics. If this is your car, it's nice!
I dig it. Those lips and side skirts look better than OEM to me. They�re a bit thinner cross section and I think that�s why.
Maybe you could run the carbon GT3 RS wing to complete the look. I�d gladly take the ducktail off your hands
Believe it or not, the .2 sides are my favorite� so much so that I think our cars look weird without them. I always look at those RS carbon wings but I can never part with the ducktail!
His aero is really the only one for C4S/Turbos and the Turbo you posted looks ready to do hoodrat things at high speeds!
Emailed
Ignoring looks, this has a good risk of unbalancing the car. The ducktail doesn't actually make that much downforce (usually just enough to counter the 911's natural lift) and the front splitter is enough to be very noticeable.
Received and they're yours. As far as the Aero, you're right and I can possibly put the GT3 wing back on for track days... even get the RS style blade and look like Tex.
Yea i wouldnt worry about street driving but u would probably want a getty lid and cup wing for the track. U really need to get the wing higher to be effective.
100% the cup is the way to go for the track if u add that much aero to the front. U really need to get the wing up into the laminar air flow. It will hurt the top speed some but the high speed turn benifit outways the top speed by 5 fold. Remember the parts r "race car" and fit will be decent....not your normal style but its about function when u r on the track. Luckily its a 4 bolt, 1 plug and a lid shock clip to swap....takes less then 10min.
You know I'm a weirdo and like odd stuff... think it's time I start doing some more research in seeing which Voltex or Cwest Wing they ran on their JGTC cars back in the day.
Random question, the car's starter is slowly going to crap and I read up on the the starter swap + 3 way cable. Doesn't seem terribly difficult, what are some things I'd be looking to probably replace "while I'm in there" in relation to the starter? Pelican suggests vacuum lines in their tutorial, anything else you guys can think of?
Good time to change the air filter, serpentine belt, plastic AOS coolant fitting that always breaks. Since you need to remove the TB and front (back) crossover plenum, get a new TB to Plenum O-ring. All I can think of for now. Aside, I found it useful to lay a heavy towel on the bumper and crossbar and then use a combination of very long extensions to move the ratchet wrench out and beyond the bumper. You need a swivel and short extension to reach the lower starter bolt. Also, from experience, do not get a rebuilt starter. Get a brand new Bosch starter. You can get one off Amazon.
I'll begin looking this up now, glad I asked the question and that people actually chimed in!
Ok perfect and I'll get that added to a cart. After working in parts for Lexus and Toyota for 8years... definitely going with a new unit as I've seen the horrors the aftermarket can be first hand.
The tail lights arrived via Suncoast, took about less than two weeks after being special ordered from the homeland in case anyone is considering buying new ones.
Got delayed yet again but at least I�ll be in Thailand for 16 days.
@FlattestSix
started a separate exhaust thread at the same time I bought my Cargraphic Super Sound to replace my Fister. I�m pretty sure I have a 130db Decibel meter in my shooting gear from some suppressor testing I did years back, so I�d love to see what the actual sound difference is.
Plan would be to take a couple readings:
- In car highway speeds
- Rev out of car
- Rev in car
I can do most of that by myself or get my step son to help, he�s a funny little dude and very capable of holding the meter. My time at home will be short as I leave in May, need to get this project knocked out asap.
Happy days! I originally wanted a carbon CSR bumper but they talked me out of it. Shipping would�ve been a ton, found a GT3RS bumper here in the marketplace and the seller nice enough to hold it for me. I�m elated for the pics, should be in Miami in a couple weeks.
This is what I wanted my car to look like when I got it, the RS also made me love the 996.2 specifically.
I do love the fact they removed the center slit on the radiator opening and thought about doing the same on the RS but I�m opting not to. At some point I�ll be reaching out to Gert for an EU rear bumper to really clean up the car. My Z was the only car that ever made it to where I was satisfied with the finished product so almost being done with this car is an accomplishment.
Just need to get the E88�s finished and she�s done with the exception of some small items.
Thats the plan! it will happen at some point but it�ll be when I can�t comfortably drive her anymore.
Bro thank you and actually I don�t know if I�d move from the 996. Think there are a couple cars I�d replace the Audi with but until I can�t drive a manual car or get out of comfortably, she�ll stay with me.
I will say that I do like C6Z, GT350 and a 991.1S but who knows.
Phil! I�ll be home on Monday so we can figure out a day for you to see her again.
First day home and I got the rear seat delete in. I haven�t seen a proper �tutorial� and it�s pretty straight forward but here�s what the kit consists of:
- Seat locking tab post cover (black ones)
- Lower folding attachment point (silver cover)
- Shortened center rod
You�ll need to remove the little collar on the lower tab, comes right off. You can�t screw the threaded silver cover with that collar and the black covers pop right in. My car has full a leather interior so it required a little more effort to pop in. You�ll need to reuse the center plastic cover after you slide the rod into place and secure it with a bolt� I need to find the bolt and plastic cover.
Once you remove the collar, the silver cover threads in. Here�s the completed �job�. It�s silly as hell but it does clean up the interior and I already have the leather seat belt receptacle cover.
Other random stuff I bought. A steering wheel cover.
Picked up the random parts from my buddy�s shop.
- GT3RS bumper
- Coil packs + Plugs
- Cargraphic Super Sound mufflers
- New OEM tail lights
Going to try and do DB readings on the Fisters for scientific purposes before swapping in the Cargraphic units. Should the lights in tomorrow and the car is filthy so she�ll need to be cleaned up. I�m hyped!
If your going with 997 coil packs you will need a few spacers/washers for added heat shield clearance...unless of course it already has 997 coil packs installed...which then I suggest watching out for the small spacers when you take off the heat shields!
Got the lights installed. The OEM ones are so much cleaner on the Slate car. When I bought the car, the lights were crazed pretty badly and I swapped in the Sypders almost immediately so I never appreciated them until now.
The top portion of the spiders are chrome with a clear lens vs the OEM with a �smoked�upper portion.
Going to a Hagerty event tomorrow and washed her for the first time in 7 months, she wasn�t terrible but needed a little love. Got around to cleaning the TEs and finally used my wheel cleaning stand� why didn�t this exist when I was detailing cars professionally?
All done and ready for tomorrow.
I bought stainless steel, brass and aluminum versions. The stainless came from McMaster Carr and the brass and aluminum came from Amazon and Ebay. I ended up using the brass versions.
I ran into the same thing 10+ years ago when I was refurbing some BBS three piece wheels.
The disassembly process was awkward and tedious so I decided to try to make the reassembly a little easier and I bought these
rollers
from Harbor Fright for $4.00 each.
If I can find them, I think I will screw them to a piece of plywood and make something like you pictured.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_6696_77f8f6b35674692194454cb33538e14dbec286c3.jpeg
I like the Maxshine unit because it has the backstop (for lack of a better term) thing. It looks like it has gone up a couple of $ since you bought though.
Even though I don't have a 996 anymore, this thread still delivers.
I'm in the process of having my Rotiform FUCs (slightly) resized and powder coated. I took them apart last weekend. Waiing for a pair of different sized lips and new bolts to arrive before sending them all to the powder coat guy.
971 Panamera Turbo:
Pro tip: Never, ever opt for matte wheels. They look great, but are a bitch to clean.
The very, very fine texture that provides the matte finish (by trapping and not reflecting light, think suede vs patent leather) also doesn't let the fine brake dust or oil easily be wiped/washed away. I experienced this a long time ago when I had a custom bicycle frame made and I chose matte white paint. Smudges that would easily wipe off a glossy finished bike wouldn't budge off of this bike. Same with brake dust on these matte wheels. A royal pain in the *** (seriously). I had to resort to using Goof Off to simply finish a weekly wash job. That's the #1 reason why these are being refinished.
I'm gonna need a wheel stand when I reassemble these wheels.
Just left to visit the Grand Canyon with the family but snapped a quick pic of the Cargraphic unit. The welds are all clean and it came with clamps so I�ll have extra hardware.
Initial impressions are positive and I probably should�ve weighed it. Still planning on seeing what the DB increase is.
Nice.
Tell me about your flooring. Name/style? Ballpark price? Would you recommend? Would you buy it again? Something different?
I'm thinking about getting something like this for my garage (which is due for a huge refresh).
Mine are RaceDeck and they�ve been good thus far BUT I think I�d get an estimate from SwissTrax. They make thicker tiles and I think they have little rubber feet under the tiles so you can�t really hear the annoying sound of walking on plastic tiles. My garage floor is perfectly flat and doesn�t make any noise, they don�t creak either.
I believe I paid $3k and that included the 10% extra tiles for a 19x19� garage. The installation was pretty simple but tedious, I did it myself in one day and used a fine toothed table saw to cut the tiles. They�ve been in the house since 2015 and they�ve worn well.
I love the set up.
Thanks for the info!
Regarding SwisTrax, a guy on Reddit that has them mentioned that it can be a pain to clean because the dust and dirt don't sweep easily. Has to use a leaf blower. Dirt and dust are a huge problem for me in the fall and winter as the leaves get pulverized by the cars then the tires drag that leaf dust into the garage several times daily. So, I'm looking for a flat (ish) type solution.
I may simply wash the cement with some solution and paint it. A poured epoxy floor with speckles would be amazing...but imagine looking for small parts in that. Every dropped nut would be a game of Where's Waldo 😂
(random pic from the internet):
Thanks Skip. The garage is a smaller one so I have to get creative in maximizing the space. My neighbors who walk by always stop and chat if I have the garage open, it�s very humbling and legit something I always dreamed of.
I spot sweep sometimes because using the leaf blower simply leaves me covered in dust and I have to shower and change clothes.
Here is the Reddit post:
https://old.reddit.com/r/SportWagon/...leaned_her_up/
I wouldn't be surprised if they are on Rennlist as well.
(their pic of their car)
I just searched and found some SwisTrax cleaning videos. Nah. I'm not gonna sign myself up for this level of work. I'd prefer to have what you got
@TheChunkNorris
.
You Tube
You Tube
Welp my scale isn�t working but I managed to order one that should be arriving tomorrow. All this talk about garages kinda made me want to leaf blow mine out and prep the car for the muffler swap tomorrow which really entailed just spraying the bolts with penetrant.
I recently saw a PCA muffler replacement vid where the presenter didn�t remove the bumper. He removed the bracket and muffler in one shot� going to try that and get cracking on the spark plugs and coils.
Welp everything was going well until I saw this little guy fall out of the protective boot for the coil pack.
FCP sells the shell so I ordered one and a pin pusher that I think will work. Could easily zip tie it but I�m trying to do this correctly. The car did have 997 packs and the block was replaced under warranty so I�m guessing that�s why I don�t need a spacer for the cover. I�ll finish up the passenger side and install the plug when I get it. Sadly it�ll be next week when I get back from Disney and Hood River.
My Fisters weighed in at around 22.7lbs and the Cargraphics came in at 14.6lbs. That�s a quick 16lbs weight reduction, pretty excited to see what it sounds like. The plugs were clean and without oil, the tubes are good too.
The bolts are all corroded and the shorter of the two bolts was rounded out a little and I�ll be replacing it. Thankfully nothing broke and I had no idea Tequipment tips were soo expensive!!
Doesn't Fister open them up and do some internal changes too? Whereas Gundo just connects a pipe between entrance and exit so that some of the gas can bypass the muffler, thus making it a little louder?
Nice update. I just ordered refreshed clips & clamps at Gaudin yesterday. Easiest thing to do would be a Youtube Short, and share the link here. Can film with your phone and upload.
The Gundo or Fisters do not do any internal fabrication inside the mufflers, the Fister put a bypass between the exiting inlet and outlet pipe. the Gundo add another outlet on the muffler and joins the exiting muffler outlet. the Fister muffler are the loudest between the two and no drone. So most of the exhaust bypasses the muffler on the Fister and on the Gundo all the exhaust goes thru the muffler and out 2 outlets into one. Hope this helps.
Good explanation. I have the Fister mod done to mine, though through my own shop here. Sounds awesome at 3k+. Though, I gotta believe a fair amount still goes through the mufflers, otherwise, why not just buy muffler bypass for less money?
About 5 years ago I tried the Fabspeed muffler bypass, lost bottom end on performance and just so loud, I then added 3 baffles 2 1/4 to the bypass pipe and some bottom end came back still loud, they are sitting somewhere in the shop and they were not cheap.
I remember reading about that. Don't think I saved it though. I have the 3.4. I'm not trying to lose anything, anywhere, haha. I'm sure my exhaust would sound better with an Xpipe, but from what I gather, the 3.4 loses low end torque with an X, outside of maybe the Cargraphic 200 cell that uses the OEM pipe ID. Even then, it probably still loses a couple on a dyno below 3K, but not enough to notice in action.
In know this isn't most of y'all's first rodeo and this isn't directed to
@TheChunkNorris
directly. Just general advice on the topic for people who are newer to modding.
I'm really cautious about doing muffler mods on my cars. Because sound ratings are
highly
subjective. What's great for one person would annoy the next person's neighbors. You laugh, but the number of cars/bikes without mufflers in my neighborhood seems to have risen in the past few years waking people up at all times of night. It was so bad that the cops started issuing citations. I'm not saying that anyone here is "that guy". But, growing older, I have a lot more perspective now and
I
strive to not be "that guy".
Then there's the risk of drone. F*ck that noise (pun intended). I've seen car YouTubers praise their setups and I can feel the drone in my laptop speakers 😂
I'm not preaching from on high. I've installed exhaust mods on at least half a dozen of my cars. Including most recently a DINAN exhaust on a M5 I had:
My advice to myself and others about exhaust mods:
When in doubt, stick with stock until there is no doubt.
Take all ratings of sound quality, loudness, and drone with a grain of salt.
Listen before you buy. Try to find a car with the exact setup you are looking for.
Don't do anything that's not easily reversible.
I've literally put on cat-back exhausts, drove the car around the block, and noped-out immediately and had the car back to stock within an hour.
With exhaust mods, there is this weird scale that gets better and better until it reaches a tipping point. Like: ok, decent, good, really good, great, amazing, daaaaaamn!, H3LL NO. 😂
The tough part about Fister/Gundo hacks is that they aren't easily reversible if you mod your only set.
I can�t do drone unless it�s a dedicated track car and I�m pretty sure HMS doesn�t have sound restrictions either. Randomly I have tinnitus in my left ear so certain sounds bother me to no end. We�re not as strict in S FLA and honestly have you been near a Harley?
Yeah, the Harley guys are a bit much, too.
Hell, there's a guy with a sport bike in my neighborhood. From hearing him, I used to swear he was going 100MPH until I caught a glimpse of him one day. Dude just never leaves 2nd gear 😂
"WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA.....AAAAAAAAAAAAA..."
Great advice on exhaust mods. I recently undid one that someone else had done to one of my cars before I bought it. My ears are much happier. I've modded other cars' exhausts also, but only after a ton of research. I've had pretty good luck and have never been unhappy with the outcome. Then again I am not looking for BIG sound so I probably don't go to the same lengths as folks who are.
The thing with stock M96 exhaust though is that it's pretty tame, too tame really. I am fortunate to have PSE which in "open" mode makes a world of difference. I also have an FSI x-pipe, which adds depth and throatiness to both modes and makes the "open" mode really sing. The ability to switch sounds is very valuable to me.
I agree. I'm definitely mellowing with age too. I also try and not do anything that isn't reversable.
I have B&B mufflers on both the 996 and the M5 and I've had two different neighbors *comment* on the M5's sound but never the 996.
Ha at 42 I guess I�ve mellowed as well. My neighbors have only asked about the 996 and never the Audi� that is a 3� turbo back.
I�m curious of your opinion of the FSI X pipe. Think I�ll replace the no name one I have on the car with a Cargraphic 200CEL but I�d like to hear your thoughts
It is a top quality piece. Jake went through several iterations of connection point sizes to get the sound and performance to his satisfaction. The O2 sensors are positioned to perfection. The cats are the best he could find. It doesn�t come cheap though, and you may have to wait until the next batch gets made.
Quick Disney trip with the fam and now I leave to the PNW until Wednesday. The pin pusher tool arrived but the damn plug case hasn�t arrived and will arrive tomorrow� as I leave for a brief work trip and now I�ll have to think of getting this damned project finished until I actually do it.
For inquiring minds. The tool I bought was on Amazon.
https://a.co/d/aviz8At
I�ve pinned Deutsch connectors before and for as silly as it sounds, there�s never been a need for me to push pins out. Couldn�t find how to do this and I know why now� it�s very simple. So simple that I�m embarrassed that I even Googled how to do it as walked around Disney with the fam. Took pics to confirm the order of the pins and now I wait until Wednesday night before the rest of the exhaust goes in.
Even though my car has only been in FL and TX, the exhaust clamps were very rusty.
Nothing like a new set of clamps on a new exhaust to make your day.
Oh nooooooooo. Speaking from experience, not only is finding dropped fasteners a pain, the contrast from the floor messes up colors and focus when you try to take nicer photos in the garage, especially at night. I'll be overjoyed when we move out of our current house and can do up the garage at the next place with just clean, polished concrete.
I love the polished concrete look but there�s only one thing I dislike� it�s slippery as hell even with they add the silica when it gets wet. I�m sure you already know this.
I couldn�t disgrace the new exhaust with old hardware. Also picked up all new screws for the exhaust mount and hangers.
I can vouch for this. I
n my case, it was soapy water from the washing machine drain backing up. After getting my ankle screwed back together I decided that I would never paint or epoxy a garage floor again. I also don't wear flip flops anymore.
And heaven forbid you spill engine oil or ATF lol. I'll have to say I got away with it relative to
@SoCal911t
but still a bruised tailbone and ripped pants.
I have a polyaspartic floor with chips in the garage. Rough to find dropped parts without putting your head on the floor with a flashlight BUT, anything you spill wipes up easily, including a pile of road salt in the spring clean up. It also has grit to make it less slippery which is marginally effective.
As soon as I walked in the house after a long *** flight� it was time to get the driver�s side exhaust in. The coil pack plug pins (that is a lot to say) popped right into place with an audible *click*, then installed the coil pack cover and lastly the exhaust.
I�ll need to align the tips before putting the car on the ground but I�ll do that after I get the other side in. Hoping to have everything done Friday morning and have the car ready the local PCA Concours event on Sunday.
Finished the exhaust install around 1am� my sleep schedule is wrecked so might as well get things done. Swapped the plugs and coil packs since the exhaust was off. I bought a kit from LN and it came with both the plugs and packs, the packs came with new bolts so it had everything needed.
Getting the exhaust off without removing the bumper is very doable and the passanger side seemed easier to manage with the exception of the last plug� I had a ratcheting E10 wrench that came in handy.
The Cargraphic has a different tone, I�d say a little more �hollow� until the RPMs come in� it sounds beautiful. I tried getting some sound clips but I couldn�t really capture it. Idle is quiet and absolutely no drone.
Did the initial cleaning and need to look it over out of the garage tomorrow.
First time submitting my car for a PCA sponsored concours event. My car is generally clean all the time, especially since she is garaged. It was pretty interesting to see what they docked points from but they loved the fact it was tracked most of her life.
There were some pretty nice cars out. Found another Slate car and a legit 996.1 GT3!
Overall happy with everything and some of the judges couldn�t believe the spec list of my car. One guy had never seen a full carbon and leather 996� ever.
And just like that� I�m leaving for work tomorrow. Cleaned up the cars for storage and now they�ll sit in the garage for 5 months. Did most everything I wanted to do except the brakes. Hope to get that knocked out in Oct, along with painting the RS bumper. Drove the car a lot in the 1.5 months I was home so that was great.
Washed the Audi and VW as well. The VW got a Eurowise roof rack, looks pretty damn nice.
Thanks for the rec on using YouTube short! There�s no drone while cruising but anything under load makes glorious flat 6 sounds. Pleasantly surprised and now I�d like to get the Cargraphic X pipe, the one currently installed has seen better days. Not sure how much the headers changed the tone but they are Agency Power if you�re interested in knowing.
Thanks brother. I just might make Sebring next year if I stay til January!
Before I left and stored the car, I placed an oil drip pan under the engine for a little leak that has developed over the last year. The RMS would sweat a couple drips over 6 months but now it's a little more so it'll be addressed when I get home, some of the hoses have oil on them so we'll replace those as well. My Indy seems to think the heat exchanger is leaking too, buying a larger 997S unit to be installed along with the UAOS for starters. My starter is going some wonky things that are known here on the forums so it's probably time for that to replaced as well. Does anyone happen to know if the oil pressure gauge is a separate part as a new unit or part of the whole cluster? My needle doesn't illuminate but the backlit portion works.
I missed out on the RS wing but started looking at 9xx for their version and it looks promising, also noticed they make a ducktail that is similar to mine:
https://www.9xxteile.com/en/classic-...2c4-acc961003p
Might be worth a look for the guys who are now seriously considering a ducktail, think I get asked weekly about my CSR on IG weekly.
There are small random things I'd like to get knocked out other than the maintenance items listed earlier. I will say that after seeing that 996.1 GT3 at the PCA made me really want to refinish my Gemballa Mesh wheels, just don't know what color. The TEs look great but I'm not really a black wheel guy even though it really works with Slate + Carbon bits. Floated the idea of doing the E88s in Anthracite try, similar to the RSGT or RGR forged BBS lines and the Gemballas in Red.
All fact in that statement. I drove it a lot this last 1.5 months I was home but that�s not enough. In December it�ll be 5 years or total ownership and I�ll have driven about 8k miles.
Man I�d love that. Gotta check with the boss on what we have planned when I get back, pretty sure we can make it work. Probably looking to drop the car off the first week I get home in October(if I get back on time).
So I've been troubleshooting the Cargraphic Airlift for about half a year. Admittedly it's my fault as well, being home for short stints requires I prioritize life events so there are times I legit blink and 2 - 3 months have blown by. With that said, the system only worked for about a month and it died. I did the logical troubleshooting steps which involved checking connections, battery voltage and the Porsche tire inflator. Everything looked as it should and then the email went out to Cargraphic for specialized troubleshooting steps, the comms were less than ideal and the only response I received was to check the relay. They gave me two options; a Bosch or a Hella, I replaced them individually and still the unit is dead. My particular unit has a fob to control the air functions(Up or down) and not the hardwired option from the 997 system. When actuating the fob, there's an audible "click" coming from the cargrpahic control unit adjacent to the battery. It'll click in the up and down position so that indicates the module is receiving the command. Fast forward to today, I received an email from the rep who sold me the unit with instructions to send it back to Germany. Obviously that'll need to happen upon my return in October but out of everything other than the EPS fiasco, this irritates me the most. At some point I'm going to reach out to @Flat6motorsports in Orlando since they're semi local to me and a Cargraphic Distributor for some insight to figure out the best recourse would be on reinstallation. I'm going to post in the 996 GT3 section to see if any of those guys have had the same issue, don't think many(if any) non GT/Turbo guys have tried the system out. It's pretty frustrating even though there hasn't been many chances to use the unit but that's beside the point. With the RS bumper going in... I will slowly die inside whenever it scrapes knowing there is a system that I specifically installed for that not to happen.
On a lighter note, I sourced a 3rd radiator kit from Gert and he's been very good to work with to the point that I try to order as many things from him as possible. Got a chance to exchange more messages with my Indy and he's never seen a 996 with a 997S oil cooler so that'll be a first for him. He then asked some reasonable questions, specifically if the water pump was replaced(the previous owner indeed changed it around 7yrs ago). He is also my track prep person and suggested the whole cooling system be done if 3rd radiator is going in and that is a logical thing to do. With the addition of the UAOS, 3rd radiator and 997S oil... I think that'll be pretty much most everything that can be done to my rarely tracked car(Hope that will change soon). For those who have done the 997S cooler, anything I should consider? Can't see any down side especially since it's a bolt on item that doesn't require modding to place.
Joel, good luck with getting the airlift functional. I hear you on the clearance. Quite frankly, I have a demonspeed gt3 front splitter that i got over 3 years ago that I haven't put on yet. It's a well made splitter, but it will shatter as soon as it hits something. A rubber/flexible based splitter would be more favorable. Good luck with figuring it out.
I have a DemonSpeed Cup lip on my front end and so far it�s been solid even with several scrapes. The first one I had flew off the car at highway speeds� think I was intact until I ran it over.
Fyi, that demonspeed splitter will not shatter. I scape/hit it on everything. It will rip off if u use the plastic retainers and if u use permanant bolts it will tear the fender washers through the bumper. I had to make a full backing plate.
It really does, I have a guy in Miami that does that type of stuff so maybe I can get that done when I get back. If it's not crazy expensive I'll see if he wants to sell but he's kinda busy all the time.
The backing plate is solid advice. I used Tex's method with bolts, washers and nuts.
If your guy in miami want to make 2 backing plates, I will gladly buy the extra from him. No worries if not.
I just got the GT3 front fender liners which should improve front end airflow and hopefully overall cooling. Gotta still pick up the radiator air flow pieces. In a few weeks I will be at my indy and plan on working thru an airflow parts and enhancement strategy. As much as I would love to pick up an RS front bumper or carve out the "smile" on my current bumper, I am looking for solutions that I don't. At least for now.
For sure I'll include you in that. I also need to look at my liners as well, if I'm going through the trouble to add this crap now... do it right the first time and makes less things to add once we get to the 4.1 Slakker time. Speaking on airflow, DeJeeper pointed out the parts I'd need for the 997 under tray that I might do.
The down side is if u completely crush the front end it may crack the bumper. Picks of mine. It did not require much. Scrap 1/8" aluminum and drill some holes. U just need to back the midfle bolts.
Edit, my damage came by repetedly hitting the lip when loading it on the rollback. It was pulling it under the car.
Should not matter.....kinda. the cup spliter that is available is only a mk2 (demonspeed). I had to drill new holes into my mk1 bumper. If u make the plate for the splitter it will fit either bumper but u need to drill the holes in the mk1 bumper.
If you've followed me this long, I spend a lot of time looking at random things on the interwebz. Noticed a 996 for sale that had a set of Sparco XLs installed so I sent him a message to see how or what he did to get them to fit because I couldn't fit one into mine. The guy was extremely helpful and sent me pics of how the seat was set in the rail and which rail he used. He used PCI mounts, same mount as the BBi but noticed the front of the seat was mounted aft of the lower pad on the center console. When I was looking to mount the seat, the front of the seat was parallel to the pad which caused the mounting holes to be off by a tad. Didn't want to jam the seat in there so it's in storage. Hopefully I can fit it correctly but at least I've seen the seats in the car with the center console installed.
All this made me look at harnesses again. My old Z had a Willans so I'll probably get a 6 point unit from them and a harness collar from Build Journal to clean up the excess straps.
I'm about to formally start reaching out to people who were interested in my aero bumper locally but wanted to cover my bases one last time. With the addition of the OEM 3rd radiator set up kit, I know there's a lower trim piece that is different between the Aero bumper and trim piece required for the center radiator. Does anyone happen to know if there's another piece needed for the RS bumper top vents to be functional?
There isnt anything from the factory. The mk1 r,rs didnt even use the chimney. The holes on the bottom of the bumper r closed and the air just goes through the slots at the top. If u want to angle the rad up almost every piece of the mounting and goses r different and it will be close to $2k in porsche parts and some wont even work at all. I was able to modify what i had to make it work.
When u add the chimney u dont need to close the lower holes. I pop rivited lawn edging and added weather striping to get the chimney to touch the bottom of the bumper.
Go through the pet drawings for a mk2, gt2 and u can see how they do it from the factory.
I tried texting you directly but can't because how the network is configured here. I'm guessing it really doesn't do much and the juice isn't worth the squeeze?
In my case the juice was very much worth the squeeze. Im very much in favor of form and function but i dont care as much about how "polished" the solution is. In this case its 100% hidden behind the bumper, kinda. The only place u see the mod to turn the radiator up is the air guide boots behind the bumper.
On your car u can just keep the angle down and use the factory parts, close the lower holes in the bumper (if even they r on your new one) and the air will push to the top slots. I dont really think u need as much "function" as i do. If u want to use the gt2 chimney then your in for the full modification. If u buy the rest of the gt2 parts u will still have to mod the radiator hoses and the top if the chimney, both pretty easy. If u go my route "cheap" its a lot more work but it can be done. I think u have a bunch more pics in my thread.
Got it and I'll start looking at parts. Seems like the priority would be the chimney, angled brackets and the frame. I read the hoses are no longer available but it's worth killing time and reading up.
The gt2 uses mk2 turbo rads, turbo air guide boots and a turbo bumper. All of this is a problem for making a factory install on a c2 mk1.
Maybe ill fly down and help
.
Ha that would be great. Speaking of you flying down, trying to set my schedule up to attempt a HPDE event in Sebring in November. It's dangerously close to my gf's bday so I'd have to see what's going on to make it happen. Pretty sure there's another one in December or January if I can't make the November one. Dropping the car off at my Indy for the oil cooler, RMS, add the UAOS and water pump the first week I'm home and then I'll rebuild the calipers, replace the lines and rotors. She should be ready.
Another update, found a set of 200CEL cats on a Porsche Facebook page. While they aren't an X pipe, they'll be a nice upgrade to the rusted ones in the car now. Some of the OG guys might recognize them but they're a Schnell set, couldn't find much on them but they seem pretty nice... they arrived at my buddy's shop already.
Say I wanted to get a cup wing for race days and random photo opportunities. I know the basic parts would be:
- Cup engine lid *for non GT3 applications
- Cup uprights
- Cup blade
So far I've been able to get prices from Getty for the engine lid and have seen a bunch of options for uprights, particularly Getty and Demon Speed. The blade I'm looking at is a 1500mm GT3 Voltex blade because JDM and I'm vain... I've always wanted one. My Z had some pretty rare JDM carbon and Titanium parts but never got a Voltex piece.
What other things should I consider? Considering I'm a track novice, how tall should the uprights be? I've seen roof height and normal cup height which I'm assuming is not as tall. The other consideration is would I need front dive planes to probably run this type of kit?
Not familiar with the JDM and Voltex stuff. But you can check out gt-racing.com configurations. A good number of the PCA club racing community uses their stuff. Years ago when I was considering club racing my 996 in the 996 spec class, this was the place to go. The 996 spec wing height/dimensions etc, are different from a 996 cup wing, but i dont remember the details anymore. Wish I could help more. But GTracing has it all. They may be willing to share all the measurements and configurations.
I haven't seen a Voltex on a 996 but only the 997 pictured above and that one is a Type 4 1500mm. It's the same dimensions of the Cup wing from what I understand. Pretty sure I'd get most of the parts from GT Racing with the exception of the blade. The upright height conversation is going to be more of a aero discussion which I'm pretty open to having. At this point I'm going to focus on finishing the brakes and since someone bought the aero bumper currently on my car... I'll install the RS bumper now in Oct. My bucket list is to track at every major venue in the US and I know that's a monumental task but it's something I'd like to do, had so much fun at HMS that I'd like to participate more.
Sounds great. As an FYI, just make sure the upright placement on the wing matches the lid. Thats your biggest issue besides wing height for actual functionality. But Aaron has been thru the exercise with wings, so he can tell you about optimal heights.
Yeah, i like
@TexSquirrel
methodology. Have lots of different lids and change it as you want. Once I find the "right" ducktail, I'll work on a wing for the track.
I would choose the Roof Height for two reasons: better rear visibility and putting the wing in cleaner air. Supposedly that improves your wing�s efficiency, allowing you to run less angle for the same amount of downforce and consequently less aero drag.
Off the top of my head I like this suggestion. You want to keep the aero balanced, and I don't think a wind tunnel fits in your garage.
If these folks can help in that regard, bada-bing.
It�s funny you mention that, I can�t see **** out the back with the ducktail. So much so that my girl thinks I�m a crazy person for constantly scanning my mirrors.
Ok sweet and I was looking at the uprights you currently have installed from DemonSpeed. Only thing I need to figure out are the brackets for the Voltex because in the description there are two boxes that can be checked and one is *Uprights and Brackets*.
Besides settling on a design look, this is has held me up. The 996 has great visibility for the the street and track without a wing/ducktail. Not to mention it has incredible mechanical grip on the track with the proper suspension set-up, LSD and tires without the aero.
But what guy doesnt want to put aero on their 996 for at least a track day just for the hell of it?
Yeah, the first couple of years of tracking my car, I didnt miss an LSD because I didnt have anything to compare. As I got faster each year I noticed that I couldn't put the power down when my suspension was loaded coming out of a turn. The inside wheel would spin. Then I put in the Brembo GT big brake kit and my braking power was incredible, which meant I could stay on the gas longer and carry more speed into the braking zone. My big brake kit would slow me beautifully, but I had some rear end instability. Didn't realize that both issues could be solved by putting on a Guard LSD.
So I put one on and the stability, balance and speed I could carry was night and day. It was then that I realized how great the mechanical grip of the 996 could be. Then I went to Hoosiers and I was in heaven.
But 996 ownership and tracking your car is a journey that all of us have to take at the speed that works for us. Quite frankly, there is so much info that is tough to assimilate quickly, that all of us have to process it on our own time schedule. As an example, after 23 years, i am still processing aero for my car.
This is why 996 ownership is so much fun. There is always something you can do to make it better, faster, stronger, more durable, etc.
Keep in mind that aero is going to clobber your acceleration over 120ish. And it won't do much below 60ish.
It really needs to be attached to the tub, not the engine lid. I can see my engine lid moving around with only a GT2 wing. Of course that is not easy.
Yeah, what's beautiful about the 996 narrow body is its ability to cut thru the air. Add in exceptional mechanical grip and you got something special on the track.
For sure, all tracks are different, but having additional aero that works from 60-110 can be a benefit thru the carousels, sweepers and fast turns. But with only 320 HP, I don't want an anchor hanging off the back at Road America on any of the 3 long straits that will get me to 140. Its a trade off.
That sounds doable. Active shutters on the front radiators and a DRS-like rear wing. The biggest headache, in my opinion, is making them actuate fast enough to keep up with our cars� acceleration and (mainly) deceleration.
Man I wish I could get up to that on HMS, maybe Sebring? Think the fastest I got on the back straight into a fast left was around 110ish, I didn�t look at my speedo but believe it was around that.
You gotta join us one of these years at a Road America PCA event. Its a freekin huge 4 mile long track with cool elevation changes and lots and lots of speed.
Sebring is on my bucket list over the next couple of years. My indy (Eurosport) takes a couple of tractor trailers full of Club Racing and DE cars to all the major PCA Club Racing events around the country. One of these seasons I will tap into their rotation and hit all the major tracks. Just something I gotta do.
Oh boy
@TheChunkNorris
you've opened up the whole can lol.
If you are not competing, then the priorities here are 1) handling balance and 2) progressive limit characteristics. Aero typically makes the car handle more on a knife's edge as you now have to compromise chassis, suspension, differential, tire pressures, alignment, sometimes even brakes, all to deal with the newfound loads. If you are not experienced in driving on that knife's edge, it can quickly become actually dangerous.
Folks are right that taller uprights typically make the wing more efficient, but efficiency of the wing alone is not helpful if it makes the whole car less efficient. Consider: if you have a tall efficient wing, you're producing downforce great but also drag, which basically treats the rear axle as a pivot to pull up the nose. You'll need front downforce to counter that. If you don't treat it, now you're just understeering; if you treat it, the front splitter/canard system typically adds drag (more on this later), while the rear wing is still "unsheathed" and producing as much drag as it ever will. Depending on the track layout, having so much downforce and drag may be counterproductive.
Lowering the wing to hide/sheathe it behind the cockpit 1) reduces the car's overall frontal area (less drag) and 2) often recoups some efficiency because the air hitting the center of the wing chord is aimed downwards instead of straight back (relative to car). You can make some nearly drag-free downforce by leveraging that angled airstream and redirecting it straight back, rather than redirecting level airflow upwards which induces drag in the classically understood way.
If your wing element is able to make more downforce than you need, you do not need it to be up in free stream making "as much downforce as possible". Case in point, I make a 66" wide, 3D-profile, carbon GT wing for Time Attack cars, and we've made a 2D-profile version of it for use in Gridlife Touring Cup. The GLTC wing, if we max out the rulebook, actually makes more than twice the downforce as the front end can produce... so we lower the wing and shorten the width until the whole thing fits behind the cockpit. Both the 3D and 2D GT wings, in practice, need to be clocked to positive AoA in order to not make too much downforce.
The S2000 below, with the wing at full height, used positive AoA to minimize drag and eventually went on to set several Gridlife and I think a few Global Time Attack records. We even have data showing that acceleration from >80mph onwards slightly improved after the aero package (but this says more about how crap the S2000 shape is than anything about my skills).
All of this is just a long-winded way of saying
do not
focus on peak rear wing performance, because any half-decent modern element including mine can overwhelm a 5" splitter, which is more than most normal track junkies ever run.
Not entirely true as it depends on the nuances of what you've stuck to the car. A package that makes 1000lbs at 100mph is making ~250 at 50mph; you'll feel that, and AutoX folks wouldn't use aero in top classes if it didn't make a difference. Acceleration >120mph really depends on how much Cd you end up adding. From experience on other cars around the same 0.30 Cd, if you optimize for drag it's possible to increase downforce several hundred pounds without touching the car's original drag numbers (and this is literally Manthey Racing's product requirement). A package like that won't make 1000lbs, but on a Civic I got to around 500lbs at 100mph without ever dropping below 40mpg @ 75mph in full race trim.
As for mounting, for 996/997 in particular, mounting directly to the quarter panel mounting area is barely any extra weight so, yeah I agree, it's more pros less cons than a chassis mount for other platforms. It's just more work to do vs bolting together off-the-shelf 996 Cup stuff.
But (I'm aware this is an AcKtUaLly) it also depends on the strength of the decklid vs how much downforce and drag the wing makes vs how heavy it is. If each upright has nicely spaced out 3-bolt mounting to the decklid like Chunk's Voltex example
The side-to-side loads from the weight of the wing I'm not even concerned about, it's just a matter of routing the downforce loads downwards through the trunk latch and/or rubber bumpers to transfer load from decklid to the tub. Unless your decklid sucks, it should be able to withstand well over 300lbs of vertical loading (I got 250lbs out of a Seibon POS). If you want bigger numbers, the vertical upright can be designed to tie from the trunk hinge out front to a rubber bumper down and back - so all the vertical forces route directly from upright to tub. These hacks come in handy on front-engine cars that just don't have any meaningful structure where the trunk lid meets the quarter panel.
Given I've been, and occasionally still am, an aerodynamicist for race teams, hopefully this can be taken as lessons I learnt from hard experience and not just Reddit-style LARPing on the internet.
Welp that is indeed a very informative post and I am kinda the Rennlist Larper for wanting something that unnecessary! Would you recommend any type of front end aero for overall stability? Pretty sure the Getty decklid can handle the force generated by the wing and Mark from Getty has been very quick to respond. At this point I'll just start amassing parts since the Voltex will take roughly 90 days to ship from Japan.
I�m interested in finding out what else can be done to optimize drag. I know you stated in a previous paragraph that you can run positive AoA, shorten the wing, and hide it behind the cockpit.
Do you have a photo of the Civic? It�d probably be a great visual example for me to understand.
Thanks for sharing, that was very informative!
I'm agreeing with what you said, with clarifications...
Aero for AutoX should be very different than lapping events. AutoX isn't supposed to see high speeds so drag > 120 mph is not of much concern.
Depending on your track aero demands can be very different. Thompson speedway is five hairpins separated by dragstrips so cornering speeds are low and acceleration is what you want. The 600+hp Camaros rule here even with no aero. NJMP Thunderbolt's the opposite with every corner way above 80mph. Lime Rock's got 60mph corners and 100mph corners. The lucky folks who have big tracks with fast corners, sometimes I wish I could be in that group. So matching aero to track is important.
The aero setups I see, not made by pros, appear to add lots of drag and questionable downforce. They look really cool though! It's easy to end up with that kind of setup, harder for us unskilled aerodynamicists to figure out something that balances all the factors. Aerodynamics has to be the most counter-intuitive branch of engineering.
Almost always yes. The popular GT3 Cup lip is not that efficient and you can do
much
better (downforce and drag) with a small vertical air dam and flat splitter. The splitter should tie into the existing flat floor so now you have almost laminar flow under the center of the car, all the way from nose to engine.
Unfortunately the radiator exits on most 996 go out the bottom so there's not much you can do about the area in front of the front tires, gotta leave it open (leave the OEM air guides and tire spat too, they're all a part of the system). But the center radiator chimney is great, do it and keep the output air away from the flat floor.
Most of my tricks really are that simple - I never designed whole new bodies for teams so I focus hard on optimizing the easy wins. The Civic has some parachute areas cut out to reduce drag and that's really it.
It's not that weird IMO, you just have to think of air as "heavy" like water and realize that the more energy you expend to change its direction, the less goes into the car's kinetic energy. So, good aero shapes in the absence of rules tend to be pretty simple! Most of the overly complex stuff you see is 99.9% driven by rules OR people not understanding differences between rulesets, which that
is
a hard engineering question.
Thank you, that was very helpful too. Telling me to consider air being as heavy as water was a very illuminating visualization. I appreciate the photo as well.
I�m sure you�re aware of this, but for others that aren�t, the 996 GT3 fender liner reroutes the side radiator exits into the wheel well instead of downwards. This change helped stabilize the front end, keeping it from floating. But these liners don�t have a provision for retaining the front tire spats, so I didn�t put them back on. With this new education, I�m going to prioritize reattaching them.
I actually forgot that the GT3 liners exit into the wheel well - in that case you probably don't need the Carrera's downward pointing tire spat. I think the Carrera spat is for keeping the hot air moving away from the car, to draw out radiator air from the triangle and not let it collect in the wheel well, which causes lift (I found that out the hard way).
With the wheel well receiving radiator air anyways, you can extract the front fender to get both cooling and downforce. Eg. making a 6-12mm tire spat along the side of the bumper (from side marker to the splitter) to "kick out" the airflow just before the wheel well. That reduces the local pressure at the wheel face, which will cause more outward flow, which air exiting the radiator will happily want to flow into the newfound "space".
As an aside, Porsche clearly knew there was a better way to do things since the RSR cars output the radiator air as the "tire spat" itself (the radiator exit has a spat itself!).
But uh, money lol...
holy ****, that makes so much sense. So a spat is behaving like a gurney flap?
Tarett sells some premade spats that run along the side of the bumper. I may just go that route�
On a rough level, definitely, you're pushing air one way to pull air from under it in the direction you want. A Gurney flap tends to be at a trailing edge of "the unit" (wing, bodywork etc) so it gets a special distinction for the twin vortices that it spawns, fairly well studied. Our humble bumper spat might do the same thing tbh, but I don't know anyone who really dug into it. Super good question!
Wheel well radiator exit ducts are huge. My car (Turbo) is firmly planted as fast as I have driven it on track, about 140mph. Not a trace of front lightness, with only the factory's aero setup.
After not so carful consideration and zero impulse control... I'm sending the deposit for the Voltex this week. Evasive was very quick to answer questions and said the wait is 6 months, they only require 50% upfront to get this started. In the past I've had issues with imports from Japan, had to wait 1.5yrs for some carbon parts back in the day and hopefully they stick to the timeline. Not in a real hurry but hate waiting for things.
In the meantime, my VW keeps my 996 company in the garage while my Audi sits a buddy�s shop for storage. She needed engine mounts very badly and the previous owner was kinda vague about when they were replaced.
He found a coupler that popped off that caused a little boost leak, I don�t drive the car very hard since it needs a tune but she putts around just fine, getting around 15mpg in the meantime. Trying to stick to 034 Motorsports for my parts to keep some continuity. Other than the tune she�ll get:
- 18z 6 piston calipers w/350mm Giros
- 300mm 034 rear caliper bracket w/Giros
- Hella 18z pads
- OEM rear pads
- New brake lines
Having a group of friends over to install the MaxxxEcu and get a base tune in. Then all exterior work will be done by me. Really trying to get a set of Regamasters for her next year. Didn�t think I�d like this car as much as I do.
On top of starting the process of getting the Voltex blade, I also finally stopped putting off the ordering of the E88 face I needed and had a local shop order it for me. Ended up saving a couple hundred dollars in the process and it appears I'll get it at the end of the year. I inquired to how much a full wheel would be and man.... they're about 3300 each! All in all I'm about $5000 into the project and about 2yrs into sourcing the parts I need to get them rebuilt. Been looking at colors for a while now. I really wanted to do them in red but I go back and forth between RGR gray(Diamond Black?) and the 991 GT3RS Weissach pale Gold or whatever it's called. Slate is dark enough where it doesn't look too off. Here's the Diamond Black from BBS the pale gold from the Weissach car.
I bet you would! The gold looks pretty good on most anything, had to google what it looked like against an Agate Gray GT3RS and its the closest thing to Slate... Liked it.
The clock for 6 months started yesterday, Evasive was very quick with responses and the 50% deposit was sent. The whole aero project will be ready by next year and not something I'm rushing with the exception of the RS front bumper, someone made me an offer on my regular Aero bumper and I accepted.
As luck might have it, the BBS gods have smiled on me. The shop that ordered my E88 face a week ago just notified me that the face has shipped and will be arriving at their shop on Tuesday. The other face that was ordered when I received the wheels took roughly about 11 months. All in all, these took less than 2 weeks to arrive. Probably going to hold off rebuilding them until next year but man it's nice to have the full set.
I did a rough test with a big leaf blower, painter tape and yarn. The planes do keep some higher velocity air away from the wheel well. The dive planes, alone, still left some disturbed high-energy air burbling over the wheel. The fences I made help take care of even more air flow. I somehow lost the video files right after I put the bits on, though.
The Cup lip does help quite a bit.
Already have the brake ducts. Taped over the 4 belly pan rectangles. Cut out the fender liners. I’m waiting for the front GT3 wheel well liners to arrive this week to compare with my Dremel-modded liners. I’m also looking at a way to maybe use a couple of those taped over belly holes for brake cooling. If I can find room into the wheel well, I’d like to run 2” hose from NACA ducts to the brake calipers. My cursory initial take is there’s not enough room.
Good info. Sounds like the 3 of us are going thru the same exercise. I have the GT3 fender liners that i am putting in shortly to test the front end on the track in July. Figured i would then pick up the GT3 radiator ducts to test in August.
@hatchetf15
I believe you have the Tarett carbon front fender deflectors. Are they worthwhile?
U dont need the hoses for the front. Just cut open the liners and add the gt3 lca and upper scoops. It gets plenty of air to the brakes. I just spent 6 20min session at njmp yesterday at 102*. No brake fade or issues with the wheels smoking at the end of the session. I use Endless fluid, pagid yellow pads and cheap zimmerman rotors.
What i found is the rear needed more cooling so i added the naca ducred belly and lca parts from a 997gt3. This has helped a lot in the back.
Well after the BBS gods smiled on me� now the Porsche gods have as well. My car is extremely clean but did have a cracked passenger side headlight with Xpel covering it which keeps water out. Been looking at new headlights since I bought the car in 2020, Suncoast sells them at $3500ea.
One of the shops locally to me in our group chat put these up for sale. Had to jump on them and they�re clean! Feels good having new tail lights and mint headlights. Also have a set of headlight trim and seals to go with it. It�s amazing how much dumb items end up costing over time.
Nice grab Joel! I shined up my passenger side headlight, but will probably need to replace it one of these days. Left side is in great shape. Got no idea why.
I have a set of lights that have a cracked housing but have clean lenses that will eventually be donors to clean up the lights I have on the car now. Waiting to get home and have Adrain take a look at what I have for the rebuild since I have a new set of projectors and bulbs, same issue everyone has with the disintegration of cable sheathing. He's 3D printing new small parts that would otherwise be unobtainable.
Thanks Aaron. They are definitely a direct fit.
Had car at indy yesterday doing a bunch of stuff in prep for track next week and decided to hold off using the GT3 fender liner. If I understand correctly (which i may not have), it looks like the Carerra part from behind the radiator needs to come off and a GT3 part needs to go on to direct the air to the GT3 fender liner opening, which i didnt have. I might as well get the upper radiator brake ducts as well. ill get it all done next month for the following track day. Unfortunately, it was a tight day yesterday and I ran out of time to discuss with them.
Yes the backing piece on the fan gets removed. I think its ritited on so they get ground off. U shouldnt have to do anything but pull the liner for access and yes it doesnt do much unless u have all the pieces so get the inner fender scoups.
Happens to all of my cars that spend significant time outdoors, one side just sees more direct sunlight if you have a regular commute, park in a regular spot, etc. As long as the projector lens itself isn't pitting, the plastic "lens" (cover) can be polished and re-cleared pretty much forever.
I had a big list of stuff to do for my indy on Wednesday when they called and said I was missing a few parts to make it fully functional so I told them to hold off doing it this month and identify the parts needed and we will do it next month. I'll post all of the parts on Rennlist and any work arounds they did once its done.
Here are the most recent part numbers for the GT3 fender liners.
LEFT 996-504-123-92
RIGHT 996-504-124-92
I believe the ae liners just allow the air to escape into the wheel well through louviers. The gt3 liners force the air to the inside edge and then the gt3 inmer scoops direct the air to the brakes.
If u r not going to buy the gt3 inner scoops then the ae units r fine
40AE has the turbo bumper cover. The wheel arch liners are a different shape.
People cut louvers into the stock liners. I did that.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post19229108
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post19244553
Looks like I'm less than a month from coming home and started planning what needs to be done the first couple of weeks on my arrival to make Rich's event in Sebring at the end of November. Luckily my
Audi is stored at the same place who's doing the work so I'll be dropping off one to pick up the other:
- New Starter
- New Starter Tri Cable
- RMS - it has always seeped - even with the previous owner and before the EPS install.
- 997 3.8S Oil Cooler
Then the GT3 RS bumper comes on... off to the painter and should be ready in time. After the show I'll address the brakes... can't wait to get home.
After watching a couple vids, how much coolant does one typically lose when undoing and replacing the front hoses for the center radiator install? Since I have to remove the bumper, might as well install the center radiator before taking it to the shop for the engine out maintenance.
Ordered some small parts for the new RS bumper:
Lower plastic trim(sits inside the bumper)
Bumper screws
Lower headlight trim
Headlight gasket
Smoked reflectors
I do realize I�m installing the 3rd radiator around the coolest season in Florida, when it�s not as hot as the surface of the sun but I just have so much crap in boxes that need to make their way on the car.
I�m pretty sure I have an Airlift vacuum coolant kit somewhere in my garage, the previous owner gave it to me and I�ll just R&R all the coolant. The engine is coming out so it�ll give me an opportunity to clean the engine bay and some of the engine.
Well gents I�m home and started looking through some boxes. One thing I was happy about was getting ARTnD�s roof rack kit.
I�ll be dropping the car off on Monday and should be able to detail the engine bay with the engine out. Pretty happy the shop is letting me clean some things up. Also got some other little goodies.
Yes! Someone else needs to take it to Interference Fit levels of �whoa!� so I can look at the photos of crazy hard work and admire it from the comfort of a couch.
Thanks guys and I�m nowhere near as clean as
@Interference Fit
work.
Hopefully about 4 months and thank you!
It�s their second release in the last couple of years, sold out on the BBS site in about 3mins.
Installed the RS bumper and began prepping the old Aero bumper for shipment to its new owner. Hope to have pics of the engine bay detail when that happens in a week or so. The day the car is returned to me, she�ll be on her way to get the front bumper painted.
This is what she looks like now with a white bumper and no lip.
Picking up the turbo headlights on Tuesday and will clean them up, they�ll need a new gasket but overall look to be clean.
Glad you made it back! 3 Questions:
What bumper does your buddy's .1 have on it? Is it a Boxster bumper?
What lifts are you using?
I guess I missed it, why is the engine being pulled?
1. Yes it�s a 986 S bumper.
2. I�m running Quick Jacks.
3. She needs some maintenance and decided to pull the engine, there�s an oil leak that seems to be coming from the oil cooler.
The engine is out and it turns out the leak was actually the power steering hose! I�ll be going in there on Monday to tidy up the bay but the engine will definitely need a dry ice session to get clean enough to actually post here.
Turns out that with the 3.8S oil cooler upgrade, one should do the center radiator upgrade to offset the extra heat coming from the oil that needs to be cooled.
I�ll be refinishing the turbo headlights and swapping in sprayers from my old headlights, they�ll also get new headlight gaskets as well.
All I�ll be doing is wet sanding from 2000grit to 3000grit, then sealing with a SprayMaxx headlight 2K clear. Should come out nice considering the headlights are clean. Next step is the painter in a couple weeks and she�ll be done for Rich�s event at the end of November.
I was able to clean up the bottom of the engine bay.
I�m not looking to remove the cosmoline but will when it gets the dry ice cleaning mid next year. Everything else looks ok, the oil sensor on the passenger side is leaking and will also be replaced. Also going to remove the old 200cel cats for the newer Schnell units.
So I made the mistake of trusting an Indy when I first got my car. They sold me on the EPS and honestly I don�t recommend anyone do the Vertex block bore technique� like ever. We�re doing the RMS and my new Indy sent me this dog ****.
When I did the EPS back in 2021, I took the car back a week after because of a small leak� yes that�s silicone. Next year I plan on having some other work done and I�ll have it replaced. I�m just irate at the moment and overall disappointed, the previous shop has since closed their doors so I�m happy they won�t do this to anyone else.
In the meantime I started wet sanding the headlights while I wait for the SprayMaxx headlight 2K to arrive.
that�s after passes with 800 and 1000grt 3M wet sanding. I�ll do a 2000grt final pass and they�ll be ready for the clear coating.
Glad you are off the boat and back in the US taking care of business. Hoping to glean a few ideas about front end air flow from your project. Keep pushing forward!
Sorry to see your IMSB globs. Agreed that it's really frustrating. I hate taking my car in to any shop. Keep up the great work!
I guess I need to put myself into the also-ran category. The headlight that you are resurfacing is already better than my best attempt at resurfacing. I also used the Spraymax 2K headlight coating. First coating I've used that hasn't needed refreshing in a year. Currently at 2 years. Although, based on what you are doing, I need to spend more time with the 2000 grit...
Funny you mention that. A really good friend of mine has mold in his Audi and I�m taking care of it.
It�s been sitting in about 4� of water while the condo does maintenance. The moisture came from under the car and in a place it doesn�t get sun so the mold just spread.
He also requested a paint decon and a ceramic coating, also bleeding the brakes and changing the oil too!
Yours still look great. As far as wet sanding goes, it�s a little harder to block sand so I bought an Adam�s scratch removal kit and it came with a handy little grip with Velcro backing.
You can also use the Orange buffing pad from the 3M Heavy headlight cleaner kit as a grip as well.
Makes working on this a lot easier on the hands. Not sure if you do or don�t but I use a clay lube or soapy water for surface lubrication. I found there�s less sanding lines at about 1000grit and up.
Here�s the finished product at 3000grit using the foam pad as a grip.
Dropped off the center radiator today and got a look of the car. In addition to the oil cooler, starter, RMS and UAOS� the center radiator, cross pipes, power steering line and oil pressure sensor was installed or replaced.
@Porschetech3
�s UAOS is 100% complete to include the filler tube which broke on my car. I bought Aaron�s old M96 kit from his .1 and Skip retrofitted it to fit my .2. Extremely grateful for his service so if you�re reading this post and on the fence about upgrading to his kit� I highly recommend you get to it.
Got an update from the shop and everything is on track for the car to be ready by next week and I�m pretty happy about it. Still waiting for the bumper trim portions that are under the headlights to arrive from Suncoast. I do have two updates. First is I�m sending my E88s out to get rebuilt. I think I�m sticking to Weiss pale gold.
The other update is redundant since I already have 3 engine lids but Evasive notified me the Vortex GT3 blade arrived already� 3 months early. I reached out to Mark from Getty and we�re getting the lid ordered, uprights are coming from DemonSpeed. So far these are happy updates.
Are you planning to upsize the hardware to M7? I've been seeing a LOT of noise lately on E88 M6 bolts snapping. The TE's are both more interesting and a lot stronger for track use until you fatigue them in another decade.
You know I�m not sure. I�ll have to ask Paul at some point after he gets the wheels.
I�ll have some higher end photos taken here soon after the bumper is painted next week or so.
Took a break from working on the Audi and did some odd jobs in the garage. Successfully slammed the VW hood on my arm because the plastic hood shock socket end split� it hurt. Realized it was probably a sign to finish the headlights since my ADD is on fire. I masked them after the sanding work I posted of previously, then applied 2K headlight clear.
Once you activate the 2 part you�ll have 8hrs to use the contents. A fly landed on the drivers lens so I�ll have to sand and polish that one. If you�re looking to use the SprayMaxx headlight clear, it�s imperative you remove the masking within 15mins while still tacky because once it�s dry� it�ll be flake the clear off.
I hear you. I did mine a couple of years ago. was flying blind but it worked. We will see in another year ir two how it holds up. I suspect i will be doing it again.
Had a surprise delivery this morning.
I�ve owned some pretty high end Carbon over the year with RPM Technik being my grail as far as perfection is concerned. This is glorious, not a flaw in the weave. Man the Japanese know a thing or two about carbon work.
Got the car back� I�m not terribly happy and it�s still incomplete but drivable. The shifter ends on the transmission side popped out while I was driving and I wanted to light the car on fire. Took it back and he reattached it temporarily, ordered the Function First cables instead of installing just the ends.
Mark at Getty has been pretty damn good to work with. Exchanged a couple phone calls and the cup decklid will be started this coming week.
Dropped the car off at the body shop today, hoping to get it all finished by mid November.
It�s really my fault so I can only blame myself. Really debating whether to do the TuneRS DOF next year since my EPS is leaking a little. Yes I understand the LN is a solid option but I have the benefit of having TuneRS 45mins away. At some point I think I�ll be doing the 4.1 Slakker x Hartech and I don�t have any car events planned.
Just need to establish and plan� then actually stick to it.
Just went to drop off some small parts at the body shop. She�ll be ready tomorrow.
Also got an update from Ehrlich Wheel Works on the E88s, they�re looking at the barrels and lips to send me an invoice. Hoping the wheels should be ready by the Sebring event on the 29th.
She�s back at the shop getting some small issues figured out but the paintwork is complete AND there�s a chance I�ll be getting the E88s on time for the Sebring event.
The paint match is perfect and the center radiator lined up. Only hold up I�m having is the shifter cables. When I got the car back and before she was left at the body shop, the shifter retainer clips popped out and it pissed me off. Ordered a Function First shifter cable set with the metal retainer clips. They�ll be shipping soon but I was looking at GT2 cables as I was told they�re similar. Randomly got a nail in a rear tire, she�ll have a fresh set of rear tires on the TEs.
I was able to wet sand the headlight that had a fly land on and it smoothed it out. They�ll be going in next week too. After I pick up the car on Monday, I�ll be freshening up the ceramic coating and cleaning the fender well areas. The car is remarkably clean but need to touch some things up.
He did a good job and has extra paint for the decklid that arrived today. If my painter is up for it, he could have done by Wednesday but idk. I�m not sure if the base has the upright bolts then I�ll test the wing.
Welp I thought I was making it to Rich�s event but my job had other plans so I�ll be on the redeye to Portland on Saturday. In the meantime I�m cleaning up the carbon and there�s some of my handy work.
In addition to that, the ducktail moved the fan closer to the engine and now it hits the UAOS diaphragm.
I helped install a Spal set up on my buddy�s turbo because the fan would hit the bigger charge pipes. Magnus Motorsports kit worked on his car but they won�t confirm it works on a M96 so I bought one for science purposes. I ended up getting shallower bolts that attaches the fan to the bracket, here�s the side by side comparison.
The new bolt set up vs the older one.
There are spacers that go between the 3 mounting points and the decklid, the shallower bolts don�t hit the decklid and I think it�s just specific to my CSR and not an OEM cover.
Lastly they send open barrel pins and Deutsch connectors too. I prefer solid barrels and only needed to order a bigger gauge. Just need to figure out if our cars are pushers or pullers and I�ll wire the plugs accordingly.
Got some things finished today. My initial thoughts of the Function First cables are positive. The biggest pain in the *** was getting the grommet back into the spot but the new cables required that the grommet be cut. Instead of electrical tape I used a single zip tie to hold the bundle together.
Getting the cables through the shifter opening is pretty straight forward.
And Fin
Can't wait to hear your thoughts on how thos cables change the shifting experience, and what you think of their NVH.
FWIW the Numeric cables re-use the factory grommet as well.
I haven�t driven it I much but did take it on the highway and I don�t usually listen to the radio when driving, they were stock ish as far as NVH is concerned.
Shifting feel is direct but not notchy and to be transparent, this is my shifter set up:
Manthey shifter
FF Shift Right kit
FF shift cables
997 GT3RS weighted shifter
The Manthey shifter + Shift Right kit took a lot of the slop out of the shifting process and the cables were the perfect accompanying item. The shifter tilts away from me so it�s taking a little to get used to. While I prefer my set up over a Numeric + cables, I don�t think you can go wrong with either.
In the meantime I started wet sanding the headlights while I wait for the SprayMaxx headlight 2K to arrive.
that’s after passes with 800 and 1000grt 3M wet sanding. I’ll do a 2000grt final pass and they’ll be ready for the clear coating.
^^^
Very nice thread, you have given me some ideas for my 996.1 project, 👍
Quick question, how did you reattach the chrome cover on the squirter after refinishing the headlights?
These lights don�t have the squirters so I�ll be reusing the ones from my headlights. The covers are notorious for breaking so confirm the tabs aren�t broken.
Happy day today. The Personal steering wheel arrived and just realized I need a Nardi adapter plate.
Nardi knows what they�re doing with their advertising.
For as much as I loved the Atwie wheel, it needed some extra parts to work correctly and I can�t find a Atwie hub sooooo� I decided to run a Nardi - Personal wheel using a proper Nardi hub. I have a working horn.
When I bought the car on 11DEC 2020, Phil gave me a box of goodies that I forgot about until I cleaned out my old shed. Found these leather + carbon goods.
The leather sun visors are mint but the defroster cover ended up getting some crap(figuratively) on it from the old shed roof getting murdered by 50lb Royal Palm tree fronds landing on it and allowing leaves in.. mixed in with rain. I�ll need to reattach the carbon but they cleaned up nicely.
There�s only one knick that�ll need filler and then dye to be perfect. Sadly I�ll be in the PNW for some upgrade training so she�ll sitting peacefully in the garage.
So now that the wheels are completed and on their way sometime this week, I finally got my deployment dates for March and should be home in August. Currently freezing my ***** off in Hood River OR and should be home for 3 weeks before stepping out for work.
My body man is booked so I can�t leave the cup spoiler at the shop to get finished. Should have the wheels and spoiler on around Sept and then the exterior is done.
There is a little "hook" on the inside of the gas metal flap. It is for the line that holds the gas cap. It will keep gas cap away from the paint/fender. FWIW.
YMMV
Lately I�ve been looking a getting a proper X pipe instead of the high flow cats I have(and had). The current market is pretty insane and I decided to go for something domestically produced because I am unwilling to pay what imported systems are going for now.
Ended up going with the FSI unit by way of LN. I really liked the Vband set up for the cats. I was originally looking at the Cargraphic units to go along with my Cargraphic super sound exhausts but just decided on the FSI�s. Sadly I�ll be deployed somewhere crappy when they�re ship but at least they�ll be at my buddy�s shop when I arrive in Sept.
Should have some pics of the cup test fit. If I play my cards right, I�ll be home for 3 track events and one being Sebring this year� just need to get the car finished and get through the next 5-6 months without losing my mind at work.
I posted a while back about my Cargraphic Airlift kit not working. Micheal from Cargraphic has been very responsive and helped me troubleshoot the module but we're at the point it needs to go back to Ze homeland. The package was sent back last week so the timer has started, hopefully they'll have info on what happened. Only update I have is I should be getting word on the FSI x pipe from LN here in the next 2-3 months, the Schnell 200Cells on the car now will be available if anyone wants them... speak now.
The 200cel cats are now pending sale. I�ve been looking at some dumb upgrades and looks like I�m about to get this rear bumper. Just pending an invoice to pay but the estimate is finished and the price isn�t as bad as I thought. It�s from a company in Japan called M�s Machine and they ran them on Super Taikyu cars.
Since I�m pushing to have the car ready for Sebring in Oct, I�ll probably just have the Cup decklid painted and fit without actually installing it right away. Also looking at finishing the cross bar project from ArtnD so I can transport my TE37s on the roof by way of an old Thule Audi Q7 basket. The drive is 3.5hrs from Miami.
I sure will. A couple guys have sent me messages and they�re happy with their set up, I trust their opinions. The problem is everyone�s x pipe is around the same price. Cargraphic, FVD(M&M), FSI, Soul and Fabspeed are in the same $3k range.
Thanks brother and us newer school guys appreciate it more than alot of the people who frequent the site. The car will be an ultimate poser vehicle until I can do more track days.
Lately I�ve had some people approach me to try and replicate the CSR ducktail which I�m adamantly against. Took me forever to get it making a plug would destroy it. Mentioned me buying the bumper and I was asked if they could scan it too� no thank you.
Yeah man I love. The irony is I could�ve gotten a turbo or even a GT3 when I bought in 2020� just really wanted a narrow body with aero.
Random other thing. Glenn recently swapped his fender liners and guides out for GT3 units, I�m about to do the same. Mine are pretty beat so it�s time to upgrade.
Drove down to Miami from Jacksonville to visit my family and pick up my VW. Had some time in my house aaand finally got around to attaching a roof rack with a kit from Brian at ARTnD. He�s a good dude and always quick to respond to my questions. This isn�t going to be on the car year around but only for race events so I can transport wheels and etc.
I have an Audi Thule Q7 with the internal dimensions are big enough to fit all 4 wheels and tires. I used Brian�s recommendation of using Thule 460R mounts and 77� Evo cross bars. They went in really easily.
Only thing when using the Thule kit is they don�t fit 100% flat but it�s really damn close.
I�ll have to clean up the Audi basket and get the basket mount parts but it�s going to look nuts driving down the highway with everything on it.
Good news from Cargraphic! There�s nothing wrong with the Airlift module and they recommended I make sure the ground is secure� I�m glad a new unit wasn�t needed but I did order another key fob with the intent of wiring it to an unused button. I�ve seen people do it with a garage door opener so it can�t be that much difficult.
Next update is I was able to get the GT3 air guides from Delaware Porsche parts, big thank you to Aaron and Glenn. My gf will kill me if I send all the fender liners to her house so I�ll just hold off for the month that I get home.
Since I�m going full race poser, I got a set of carbon canards for the RS bumper.
The carbon work is very good with very little blemishes and overall I�m happy with them.
More little things to finally get the car on the road and some upgrades because I�m a crazy person. If you�ve been following the build, you�ll know that my old Indy(emphasis on old and now out of business) recommended the EPS IMS, then used the Vertex boring method to get the old IMS out. He made it seem like it was normal but I now know that it was indeed not normal.
When we had the motor out for other maintenance and just to take a look at why the car was weeping oil and we came across this mess and poor execution of craftsmanship� 6yrs later.
and then I found this gem on Facebook.
The issue is that bearing is not the OEM size and oversized so you can�t use a LN in any capacity or hell even a non serviceable M97(whatever it is) bearing.
Charles sent me a message on IG quite some time ago and let me know they were coming up with a method to fix this issue. I ordered the repair sleeve and it arrived at my house� very grateful to the whole crew at LN.
With that said, back in 2020 there were a couple people who said it was a terrible idea because someone told them not to do it but never explained why. Now you all know why and remember to pass good info to the next person who asks moving forward, it�ll make the person feel more informed.
That�s the �bad� and that�s out of the way. A new bearing + sleeve will be going in and the engine will probably get cleaned throughout.
I also bought some goodies to upgrade various things. One of which is an OEM 997.1 X51 airbox via a Facebook Marketplace ad� it�s complete with some small surface scratches but nothing I can�t fix. It�ll be the dumbest/kinda cool upgrade I�ll have and LN came again to the rescue, they offer a jig to correctly cut a second hole in all my decklids except for my Aero(staying OEM).
My arrival home has been delayed to Sept now but I�ll have much to do.
Sorry that happened to you. I agree, LN Engineering is a godsend. I'm really impressed that they have come up with a sleeve to fix it.
My original motor was hacked like that as well. I wound up with a replacement case during the FSI build.
Yeah man I totally agree and they came through for me. I will say, they reached out early to let me know there was going to be a delay on the x pipe without me having to send them an inquiry.
Thanks guys and I just want to start driving the car again.
Well I'm about 10 days out from coming home and already have a bunch of crap ready for the car at a friend's shop. The M's rear bumper is stateside and should be arriving in a week or so, particularly happy about this because it's the second thing on the car that I've been asked to 3D scan to be reproduced.... and say no. It's not gate keeping, it's more like I paid and waiting considerable time to get it so I'm not interested in that. Moving on, ended up getting Michelin PS4s for the E88s and they'll be ready the first week of September. LN updated me on the X pipe and should have a better gauge in 3-4 weeks. Lastly, I have everything I need to start refinishing the X51 air box and I'll walk you guys through that process. Luckily there's no real gouges and just scratch removal and adding clear coat via a 2k clear.
Believe it or not, I didn�t realize how sorted this car was until after a couple months of owning it. She was going to get a full JGTC CWest set up, it was discontinued but had connections from my HKS days.
Been home for a couple days and looking through some of the parts I received. The airbox looks pretty amazing. I�ll be refinishing some scratches and cleaning it up. It�s complete and I�ll be looking for replacement parts now.
Next is the carbon Rennline cup mirror set up. I�m not entirely sure that I�ll keep them. They�re super light but look odd. you can see it in the photos.
Leaving the car at my new Indy to figure out the oil leak so I can start driving it. The E88s are waiting for one tire that didn�t show up� working with FedEx on that.
Welp she�s on her way to TuneRS, they�re the best in the area and I wanted a real assessment of the block. I won�t need much of anything else to start driving her more.
Well gents the car is moving forward and hopefully we�ll see if the LN repair sleeve works on my particular car. It�s really well machined, has a recess on the area that faces the block to allow sealant to fill and hold. When the previous shop bored the block, they did a miserable job.
The LN sleeve had play but not because of the sleeve being machined incorrectly, it was the block. With the sleeve in place, we can finally use an OEM sized bearing from LN or in my case a DOF from TuneRS. They�re local and I have lots of interactions with him from the various track days and events.
The sealant used takes 24hrs to cure and they�ll be adding Motul oil once it�s done. Should hopefully be up there next week to pick her up. Here�s the current state of the repair.
Im at the point now where if I did do a 4.1 Slakker, I�d just opt for a new block and if the sealant does the job� I plan on driving this car for as much as I can while home for the next 5 months. Should have the wheels on shortly after picking the car up.
So the LN sleeve didn�t work, there was too much play and the sealant holding the ring wouldn�t stop the oil. The shop is machining one with a larger outer diameter to fit better, it�ll take a longer for the work to be completed but I know the waiting will be worth it.
In the meantime, I�ve been working on refinishing the airbox. I used JB weld clear epoxy + a toothpick to fill the scratches. Let it harden and began leveling by way of razor blade scraping(nibbing) and sanding with 800grt and 1000grt increments. I�m happy with the process and will finish the whole box this week, which includes clearing it with 2k.
Do I have a story for you all. Checked on the car on Friday and was able to see where we were in the service. Think Helen Keller operated the tool to mill the M97 flange(for the EPS), it wasn�t perfectly round and too much material was removed� so much so that the LN repair sleeve fit loosely. It leaked oil like crazy and they custom made a larger outer diameter sleeve to work with the DOF.
TuneRS had the car on the lift for two days to make sure it wouldn�t leak and it was clean� I did however have power steering hose leak that will now be taken care of. I�ll have more pics of the EPS but the bearing was shifting forward and back, rubbing on the IMS cover. Should be getting the car on Tuesday or Wednesday and I can�t wait.
The airbox is really for the 2K and I�ll be test fitting shortly thereafter. For test fitting purposes I won�t cut the duct into the ducktail or the Aero decklid, luckily I�ll use the Getty to perfect it. With that said, the CSR is all vented and always drawing in outside air� maybe I don�t have to cut it?
My painter disappeared so I�ll have to fit the bumper and Getty decklid on my own, which is fine. Once I confirm fitment, I�ll have a shop fill in the center exhaust cut out paint. Wheels get mounted tomorrow as well. Should have pics on the car in a couple weeks� heading to NC for the Hurricanes vs Wake Forest game next week so I�ll be busy for the next week or so.
She�s back!!! Waiting for the shop to send me pics of what had been done and why I can�t in good faith recommend the EPS for my particular car and cars similar to mine.
As promised here�s what happened with the EPS that I think few people talk about. It might a be combination of things, like gross incompetence in the boring of the block or the actual bearing design. So the bearing was moving forward and aft, rubbing on the IMS cover.
The bearing itself looked fine but it was clearly evident the outer race was making contact with the cover as seen above. I can�t recommend the EPS for the non serviceable set up and anyone reading this that is on the fence� LN or TuneRS DOF are your only options in my opinion. Absolutely do not bore the flange for an oversized EPS using the Vertex method because you will eventually leak oil or have complications.
I went with the DOF because I do track when possible so I�d never pass a safety with the amount of oil that was leaking. Extremely thankful LN tried to help, I found them the a great group of people and will try to buy as much as possible from them. TuneRS is local AND willing to work on the car, they made a ring with a thicker outer diameter. They froze their ring and tapped it in. Luckily the clutch and flywheel were clean, they had less than 6k miles on them.
In closing, I�m glad she�s no longer leaking and I don�t need a block� now she has a direct oil feed set up and is clean. She got a fresh oil change, new PS hose and new belt because the hose was leaking onto her belt.
In the meantime, I�ve been prepping the wheels for tires by way of a ceramic coating.
I use foam applicators to apply and a thin dowel to push the microfiber into tight spots. It works well enough, right now I�m using Gyeon that was left over from another detail.
Thank you! Finally able to drive!
Much appreciated. I always envisioned the 996 with E88s and I�m hyped.
Ceramic coatings don�t keep adhesives from sticking on them. In fact, most professional PPF and vinyl installers prefer a fully ceramic or coated car. The adhesive comes off cleaner, wheel weight adhesive is pretty sticky and will adhere well. My TEs are ceramic coated and never tossed a weight.
I disagree😎 what I�ve read and been told is that it will compromise adhesion. Makes sense to me. I did the ceramic before mounting tires, but saved barrels for after. I enjoy seeing your updates�nice work.
A lot of that is anecdotal and have done over 20 sets of wheels, I detail cars professionally when I�m not out of the country and I do a lot of wheels. Never have they tossed a weight.
Thanks! Your wheels look incredible as well.
It�s really brand dependent. This is going to be subject to a lot of heat and good ol German brake dust. I�d say on average 2yrs? There other brands I use are more durable like System X or CCI(can be purchased without a commercial account) last to about 5yrs.
Got the tires mounted and the bumper unboxed. Very pleased with how it looks and it is really well built, it�s also light.
Trying to mount the wheels tonight!
These came out amazing! I agree the wheel color works really well with your car. And kudos for sticking with 18s...I don't know what it is about the 996 chassis...it's not that different from the 997 but it just looks so much better with 18s vs 19s imho.
Did a quick install of the Rennline carbon side mirrors. Fitment is 1:1 and they did a really good job by adding the mounting plate style of the OEM mirrors. I love the look.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.