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YOUR RESEARCH996 flywheel bolt torque specs
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Check threads are very
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I used a chain to lock the flywheel when torquing to 120degrees with a 2' breaker bar, and used a permanent marker to mark the 120 degree.
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i have had a snap on torque angle gauge for 15 years or more......................i have used a magic marker more
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I used a chain to lock the flywheel when torquing to 120degrees with a 2' breaker bar, and used a permanent marker to mark the 120 degree.
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I've used the same shop made tool on all kinds of cars for decades.
Check which bolt has reached its final 120 degrees
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Suggestion · Original poster
For the flywheel bolts, you don't need 0.01 degree precision so I just mark between the bolt and the flywheel as the initial starting point, then add a 120 degree mark on each bolt so you can visually check which bolt has reached its final 120 degrees.
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Seems like a good idea to chase,clean & dry these threads but the size is unusual M10x1.0 -that is
very fine
and not the more common 1.5 fine thread.Just finding a USA-made bottoming chase/plug tap is a challenge.
I am a wimp so do the xxx degrees in 2 stages & use a breaker bar not a torque wrench for this final stage. With the M96 I got even more paranoid and used a Brownline torque-angle wrench (because the Snap-On ones were unreliable according to Internet legend !). Then I started researching light oiling of the bolt threads vs. no oil ....The simplest tasks on this engine can take hours of research and expense ! But I am sure lots of people do just fine slapping them together. The guys at ARP are getting to know me really well !
While you are hunting this size - you may need some M10 x1.0 long bolts to do the RMS with your home-made PVC coupling tool.
I checked my threads are very clean and shiny. I just use a dab of anti-seize on the new bolts.
Wow, I can't imagine how you crank those bolts 120 degree using only the (18"?) Browline torque-angle wrench! More power to you! 90 degree is easy but the extra 30 degree is exponentially more grunt.
Just to keep all the updated torque specs in one place, Can anyone confirm the following from the most updated manual:
Are the pressure plate values 17 ft lbs? with no additional degree turning?
Bell housing Bolts 85 ft lbs for all the standard 16mm nuts
.... and 45 ft lbs for the triple square and the nut/bolt
AOS 7.5 ft lbs
Clutch slave 7.5 ft lbs
Manual Transmission Mount bolts (all 6 against the body) 48 Ft Lbs
Manual Transmission mount through the rubber mount, nut and bolt 48 Ft lbs
I'm also replacing my split case micro-encapsulated bolts along the engine (4 i believe) I can't seem to find that torque spec anywhere, any insight would be awesome.
My advice: buy the torque spec book from theknowledgegruppe.
http://www.theknowledgegruppe.com/in...96-automobile/
It is worth every penny you pay for it to have all (most) torques specs in one handy reference. It'll save you a lot of hunting, digging, and trusting random internet posts.
I'm just trying to compile a DIY with pictures of doing IMS, RMS, Clutch Etc. So having of all specific torques required would let my guide potentially be a one trick pony, If anyone who has the book could share the wealth i'm sure it would benefit others to have all of the specifics involved with doing this overhaul themselves.
So is there one wrench that is accurate on the low end to torque the 19 ft-lb and beefy enough to apply the 120deg without destroying the accuracy on the low end, or are two different wrenches used?
I assume you mean the flywheel bolts. Use a regular torque wrench to get to 19 ftlb, then mark the bolt (0 degree and 120 degree) and use a breaker bar to angle torque it.
For the flywheel bolts, you don't need 0.01 degree precision so I just mark between the bolt and the flywheel as the initial starting point, then add a 120 degree mark on each bolt so you can visually check which bolt has reached its final 120 degrees. This trick is fool proof so even if you get interrupted in the middle of angle torquing you can resume and continue with where you left off.
heres a great cheat sheet, you can cut it and use painter tape to get the right 120 degree alignment.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...egreeWheel.jpg
Is something like this recommended? I’m wondering because it’s only rated to 147 ftlbs but you never really know if you exceed that when turning to an angle. Or do you?
For the initial torque of 19 ft lbs tightened in a star pattern, that would be fine. but for the 120 degree, your best bet would be a breaker bar and the chart above.
I'm with Ashai - use a torque wrench to get initial torque, and then use a Sharpie marker to make a reference mark on both the bolt and the flywheel. Then complete the angle torque with a breaker bar. Obviously, you'll need the flywheel locked to do this. Easily accomplished with a short length of flat steel bar with two holes in it, one end bolted to the bell housing and the other to a hole in the edge of the flywheel (where the pressure plate will be mounted later). I've used the same shop made tool on all kinds of cars for decades. Just use some of your old bolts that you were going to discard anyway.
When turning angle, torque is irrelevant so you don't need to measure it.
That paper dial looks nice but I doubt you have enough space there to use it unless it's 2" in diameter or less.
The ones that are along the case edge of the RMS?
My 2 cents is still to buy the book and have the torque specs you need in one place. I like to support the vendors that make a lot of this DIY accessible to the average shade tree.
That being said... you seem intent on doing it by crowdsourcing. Are these two of the twenty-five m6x35 bolts that join the crankcase halves? If so, according to the spec book I listed above, they are 13 Nm (10 ft-lb).
Much appreciated info, as I said before; just trying to collect all information involved in doing a write up so save the next guy the headache of hunting around for certain info.
Thanks again!
I did essentially the same thing. I used a chain to lock the flywheel when torquing to 120degrees with a 2' breaker bar, and used a permanent marker to mark the 120 degree.
T marks the starting position after torquing to 19ftlbs.
Not needed. You're putting the screws into a preloaded condition, they won't loosen. Antiseize will lubricate the threads and cause erroneous torque values.
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