Handbreak cable

After an exhausting three-day war between me and my old rusty handbreak cable I had removed 23 mm of the pipe at the wheel hub end. Will it work with a new cable? (Or will the spring be too long?) And if somebody has problems with a stuck cable always remember rust penetrating spray almost never works, always use heat. I have a big blowtorch, but this time, because I needed a smaller flame, I went out and bought a creme br�l�e torch for the lever end and it worked great. 2001 C4

Quotes source post: 14541288

Good info! I've got a rusted out/ broken cable on my right rear wheel. The left one still works, but it is a project I want to get done so I can get both sides working again (even though I think it's going to be nightmarish)... Any pointers regarding the cables/tubes them selves would be appreciated.

So what does this cable break when you pull it? IMS/ scratches bores? Interested to know.

It breaks your hand. Can you not read? OP, it sounds like you had to chop the end off of the cable tube for the parking brake. Is that correct? If that's the case, you need to shorten the cable or extend the tube to its original length. If I'm on crack and the cable is not adjustable, you could add a short length of tubing and flare one end to allow it to mate with the original guide tube. The cable is adjustable from the cabin end:

Quotes source post: 14541818

Nope but I'm ok at spolling.

After an exhausting three-day war between me and my old rusty handbreak cable I had removed 23 mm of the pipe at the wheel hub end. Will it work with a new cable? (Or will the spring be too long?) And if somebody has problems with a stuck cable always remember rust penetrating spray almost never works, always use heat . I have a big blowtorch , but this time, because I needed a smaller flame , I went out and bought a creme br�l�e torch for the lever end and it worked great. Strange thread.

Quotes source posts: 14541582, 14541818

Both ends of the cable are only pressed in (you�ll see from a new cable) so it should have been a reasonably easy job. The hard part should have been removing the old hand brake shoes and putting in new ones which you have plenty of information online. At the wheel hub end I soaked it in penetrating spray and took a screwdriver that I used to hammer in the cable. The guide tube/pipe broke in half. So apply heat and don�t hammer too hard.  At the other end, underneath the backseat I again soaked it in penetrating spray and applied heat from a small torch. A lot of hammering on the tube/cable cap, a little more heat and then just pulled the cable out (with force). The tube didn�t break in that end. When working underneath a car, remember safety first. Thanks for the input! The cable might be adjustable but since the guide tube broke/got cut off in the other end, the guide tube at the wheel hub end would need to contain the whole spring surrounding the cable. I�ll probably go with your solution in adding a short length of tubing even thou adjusting the cable would definitely have been easier. Here you can see my now roughly 1 inch too short guide tube.

It might be worth wandering down the motorcycle aisle at your local auto parts store and see if there's a brake adjustment screw or throttle cable adjustment screw that could be re-purposed for your needs... Something like this, but large enough on the big end to accommodate the guide tube: