DIY: Rear Window Regulator Repair

Hi everyone, just tackled this project over the past few days. Figured out stuff as I went along. This may be useful to others. The rear window regulator on my 2001 Porsche 911 C4 Cab got stuck one day and fell down. Took some effort to pull the window back up with my hand and a combination of pressing the switch but I was able to get it back up. I purchased a rear window regulator kit on eBay for around $50 and decided to tackle the project. I noticed there wasn't many videos on this project and decided to show myself figuring it out as I went along. Use this as a reference guide. I by no means believe I was 100% correct on everything in this video. If you should attempt this watch the whole video as I made mistakes and figured stuff later on in the video I should've done earlier. It should be noted that this job is a million times easier if you can get your rear window to roll up all the way. Try to grab it and yank it while messing with the switch if you can. There is a trick that I didn't mention in the video, but if you press the microswitch where the convertible top latches into when you close the top (near the dome lights above the rear-view mirror) It will allow you to press the rear window switches at the same time to roll up the window while the top is down. DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any damage you might do if you tackle this yourself. There are inherent risks to working on cars yourself. ONCE YOU SHIM THE REAR CABRIO TOP BRACKET DO NOT OPERATE THE CONVERTIBLE TOP AGAIN UNTIL IT IS BOLTED BACK INTO PLACE. Some useful resources that I found helpful on this subject are here: You Tube You Tube https://www.renntech.org/topic/41648...lator-996-cab/ https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...or-solved.html Link to Amazon kit ~ $35 https://smile.amazon.com/Regulator-C...s%2C103&sr=8-1 My DIY: You Tube

Awesome, thx for posting. I had to replace my rear window regulator as well, it�s a pain. Went through many of the same things you did. The video is helpful.

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@Josh Randall thanks for posting this as I am currently trying to repair a rear window rattle on my 996 turbo and for the life of me cannot figure out how to remove the last clip that holds that rear panel in??? I removed the seatbelt screw and cover, plus the speaker (2 screws), plus removed the one interior screw on the far left side of the panel interior and removed the seatback bolt. There is a nice video you listed and the guy mentions this interior clip (circled in red in the attached photo) and you need a flat head to carefully remove it, but I cannot figure out where to apply pressure to release it? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!! 996 cabriolet driver side rear window panel inside view

Hey Kenny that's actually my video! I'm not sure if you can see it but in the center of your red circle there is a bit of silver there. That is the general location of the clip. You want to get a flat head screwdriver wedged between the metal of the car body, and behind that plastic close to that general location as possible. And then simply just twist the screwdriver and it should pop right out.

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@Josh Randall hey thanks so much for the awesome video and your reply here! I took a super long needle nose pliers and use it to pry off that clip. I tightened up the 2 window regulator bolts which were just slightly loose and that fixed my rattling noise and the car is quiet again! Super appreciate your help this forum has been amazing with experts like you helping other 996 newbies like me

I want to share my experience with the 6mm allen pin which the rear folding seats latch onto incase anyone else has troubles. The video points out at the 3:40min mark that this pin may spin freely and I had the unfortunate luck to experience this. My work around was to pull the side panel out as much as I could to have enough space to put a small set of vise grip pliers on the captive nut the pin screws into. Once the captive nut was secure with the pliers, I was then able to loosen the 6mm allen pin from the other side. Opening the side panel Placing vise grip pliers on the captive nut to secure it Finally loosening the 6mm allen pin

Hi Josh, hope you are still around. I am attempting to repair my regulator for the passenger side window in my 09 C2S Cab. I removed the top two bolts but the one at the bottom, it has been referenced as #9, spins when attaching a socket to this bolt. Apparently the bolt is not fixed as I dropped one of the top ones into the frame bottom while moving the regulator frame around. I don't see anyway to put a grip on the bolt in order to remove the nut. Any suggestions?

I vaguely remember that bottom bolt could be unique. It may not be a traditional bolt. It could be the type to turn 90 or 180 degrees and then you just pull it out. Try using a flashlight to see from one side while grabbing it on the other side. I think I have contributed to other threads for this repair in the past. See if a search turns up any other threads.

You raised a good point, I’ll have to poke around and see what it is Bob

Mike, I took a closer look at that bolt and the end does indeed accept a 6/32 allen but all that does is spin the bolt and nut around. The others have the same setup. Worse case would be to remove the convertible top mechanism and see if I can get a wrench on the backside. Bob

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I believe I did use a wrench on both side. You shouldn�t have to remove the entire convertible top assembly, but you could move part of it out of the way after removing most or all of the bolts. I think I adjusted the convertible top past the service position - mostly closed - in order to find the best possible setup for access. Here�s my thread: post #4 has several links. The first link has a lot of info.

You use a allen socket with a 6 inch extension attached to a small ratchet. Insert the allen socket into the end of the screw. Then you use a 13mm crows foot around the nut, attached to a 8 inch extension attached to another ratchet. Hold one ratchet and turn the other ratchet.

Yelcab, did this actually work? Going to be interesting within a 2 inch opening. Still don’t understand why this nut won’t unscrew like the others. Bob

Your a genus Yelcab, it worked as described. took a bit to get the claw foot in the opening and around the bolt but I got it on and used the allen to unscrew the bolt from the nut. Of course, the nut fell into the bowels of the frame so I'll have to fish that out once I remove the regulator. What a PITA this was so far. Bob

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It sure is. Maybe you have a magnetic fish to get that nut, unless it�s aluminum, lol. In which case, gum on a stick.

So here�s the question for that #9 bolt. The bolt itself is just screwed into the frame so it will spin when removing the nut. Would it be better to install another nut on the backside so the bolt will not spin? Like a locking nut. This way you can just use your 13 mm socket to tighten up?

Just remember that studs need to be able to move in and out, that is how we adjust the window to be air tight against the front window and top.

^^This. I'd apply some more Loctite 242 which will help hold it in place. Pretty clearly that is what the factory did.

My regulator failed twice because i didn't replace the pulley. it warps and causes the cable to come off. The second time I sent my reg to a place that rebuilds it with an aluminum pulley for 120 bucks or so Power Window Repair

Finally finished the job today, the reassembly went much smoother other than losing another bolt for #9. A few suggestions, 1. purchase a 9 in or longer 3 mm allen wrench, makes it much easier for that #9 bolt 2. When removing any of the 13 mm nuts that are set back into the framing, put some gum or other sticky stuff in your socket. This will take care of losing nuts. 3. Use a 2x4 for spreading the cab mechanism from the frame. This will allow plenty of room to remove the regulator. I used a thick screwdriver handle the first time to remove the regulator which was a bit short on thickness. 4 when installing #9 nut, first use the allen wrench to tighten the bolt with the backing washer to the adjustment frame. This way the bolt will be somewhat tight so you can thread the nut on (using the sticky stuff). Tighten everything up while checking the window alignment and pitch. 5. Recheck all the nuts, recheck that the window goes up and down and for cabs, check the roof mechanism. Then be sure the seat belt works properly before installing the remaining trim. Next time, which will likely occur with the other window, I could probably knock this out in a day. I set by regulator off for a full rebuild for $240 by Window Motor World through Ebay. I might even hold a tech secession for PCA for the next window, haha Thanks for everyone's help

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Hi Doug, I replaced mine in Oct 2023 and it has now failed again today after probably using the 1/4 window no more than 40 times this past year. I did not replace my original pulley at the time because it was not broken. I only replaced the broken cable. Now I am kicking myself because I'll have to do the job again lol. If I recall, replacing the pulley was a mess which is why I opted to keep it. My question is, if I send the entire window reg to Power Window Repair, is the $120 price to install a new pulley and cable? In any case, I will email them. Since my original plastic pulley was not broken

It is well worth it, components will be replace with metal pieces and lifetime warranty. I have done it both ways. DIY kit and Arizona repair, doing the pulley stud is a PIA.

I used Power Window Regulator back in 2017 and it�s still working well today. I paid $205 back then (which included lifetime warranty and shipping).

Hi, I was looking for some advice about this job. I've sourced a replacement part and am planning on tackling it next week. The information in this thread has been very useful (and I'm super appreciative of all of the effort that people have taken to assist) One point I was hoping to clarify --> my window is stuck in the "down" position. I can hear the motor drive very briefly when I activate the switch but the window does not move. Does anybody have any tips on how to raise the window to facilitate removal of the regulator? Alternatively, can one remove the regulator with the window down/open? Thank you!

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Once you start loosening the cabriolet top parts and interior pieces, see if you can grab the top of the window glass with your finger and try to raise it up by pulling on it. If you are able too see down in there, you might also be able to get a metal hanger in the there are try to raise it from the lower part.

Thanks Mike - much appreciated! (I live in the northern part of Australia... The nearest dealer is around 2000 miles away.... Hopefully I'll work it out!)

Job update in case it's of any benefit for the next person. The summary is that it's achievable with the instructions in this forum (including the videos). The Porsche service manual was a useful resource too. I had an assistant which was a bit win. I suspect lowering the lifter into the cavity without a helper would have been tricky to say the least. Strongly recommend the "use tape on the tools and Blu Tack to for the bolts".... If I followed that advice from the start I might not have had to purchase an inspection camera to locate the parts that I dropped 😬🤦

This job is a pain in the royal butt. I tried the "amazon kit" and it was not worth the spit and had to go back and bought a factory regulator. It's expensive and once again, I reminded my friend "you drive a Porsche, pay up."

Heh.... Yes... I should have added that I just purchased the factory item from the start. I thought the installation job alone was enough excitement for me! I suspect the "professional rebuild" service would be a good option if it was nearby but in my case shipping the item across the Pacific (both ways) would make it less cost effective. Not to mention the car would have been a paperweight for weeks waiting for the part 😬 I'm very appreciative of the wisdom on this forum --> makes tackling these jobs much more achievable. My wife and I had a great time working though it!

Hello Thank you for all the great information! I just went through all of the steps, the wedge worked great, I used a dab of grease in the socket so the bolts wouldn't fall out. One feel of course, but after the window was out it was not too hard to reach down there with a magnet and get it back. I ordered the rebuilt regulator from AZ and it seems to work fine. It was up when I did the install, after I put the window back in, it rolled down, but then LOCKED down because the top was down. So I put everything back together and now the top won't even try going up. does anyone have any suggestions? Is there a reset or something I can unplug or plug back in to see if the top will try to raise. I didn't take apart the convertable motor or arms or anything, I was able to install with just the wedge and tape around around the hydraulic bar to avoid scratches. But the top won't move. Here is a link to some pics that I took during removal and install. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4Q6MMApswGKD1nSV7 Thank you for any help. Dave

I just completed my second regulator repair and yes, it's still a pain. A couple of questions: - will your window go up and down since replacing the regulator - have all the trim pits been put back together? Otherwise the window can bind. - when you try the cab top, do you hear the motor trying to open? If no noise, check fuses Replacing the regulator should not have impeded the top operation unless there is something binding. Good luck

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Thank you for your quick response!

Also, if the car is a 996.1 the E brake must be applied, and on both .1 and .2 models the trunk and rear deck lid must be shut to operate the top.

I think that is it! let me check, the back and front were open, I didn't know that they had to be closed, I hope that is it. thank you so much.

Hopefully this helps someone with bolt/nut number 9 on the bottom. I did both sides on my 997. And this makes getting that nut off much easier. I also used tape to ensure sockets extensions didn�t fall off and go down into the bottom of the rear quarter also highly recommend Window motor world for the rebuild. https://windowmotorworld.net/ https://a.co/d/j5BA15Y Eklind Tool 64840 4 MM Power-T T-Handle Ball-Hex T-Key allen wrench pass through socket https://a.co/d/5BVyLY4 SATA 30-Piece 1/4" and 3/8" Drive 6-Point Pass-thru Socket Set, Metric - ST09132SJ for the nut behind the piston, this 13mm wrench worked well https://a.co/d/hXH6W50 uxcell 13mm x 15mm Metric 12 Point Offset Double Box End Wrench Chrome Plated, Cr-V Steel

OH MY GOD. I think this has been the worst DIY job I've ever had ever done. @dbradjones your post is one of the most useful, but I only understood it once I'd totally f*cked up. Hoping this helps someone, but here's what I learnt but missed in other descriptions: - that bottom #9 bolt wants to make your life misery. Just remember that when you start. it's your enemy. - To remove the regulator - you need to (1) remove the nut and (2) retract the thread that goes into the regulator enough to make it easy to extract the entire regulator - you need a 'Pass through' ratchet - easily available, with a minimum 6" extension. Then you also need a 4mm hex that is (obviously) longer - 12" hex wrenches are cheap on amazon - here's what I screwed up. You are first removing the 13mm nut. The hex should firstly only be used to stop the bolt moving whilst you unscrew the bolt. I thought the bolt could uncrew through the nut - not realizing there is a collar preventing the bolt from moving. I rounded off the hex and then realised I had condemned my next few days into tears. - once you've got the nut off, use the hex to retract the regulator in to reduce how much the bolt extends from the regulator I'm sure I still haven't explained it properly. But key thing is - remove the nut first. There seems to be no video which show this part - everything else is annoying but easy'ish. The #9 bolt is just awful. -