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YOUR RESEARCHWheel bearing tools
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Replace suspension
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but, I was in the same situation last spring when I replaced my suspension.
Leading evidence: 'Replace suspension' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check 'lowest price+shipping' otherwise you'll get scammed' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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For that I used my dremel to undermine 2 slices almost through the shell at which point a cheap 3 prong cast puller was able to finish the job.
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Also, the outer race of the bearing has enough overhang in the carrier that you can pull it out with a washer or one of the adapter plates (I think I just used a large thick washer).
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I used a Sir Tools kit with a lot fewer parts than the B-90.
Check 'lowest price+shipping' otherwise you'll get scammed
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Suggestion
And refine the search by checking 'lowest price+shipping' otherwise you'll get scammed on the shipping charges.
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Suggestion
I was able to borrow a SIR tool kit to do mine on my Boxster, the only part I had trouble doing myself was pulling the inner race off the hub after pulling the hub - on the fronts I was able to use a 3 jaw puller but on the backs I had to take them to a shop and have my buddy remove them with a cutoff wheel.
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Also, the outer race of the bearing has enough overhang in the carrier that you can pull it out with a washer or one of the adapter plates (I think I just used a large thick washer).
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Suggestion
Also it looks like the OTC grappler arms might be able to pull the rear hub without having to take off the parking brake shoes, which I had to do to use the SIR Horseshoe puller.
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Outcome without a verified action link
I combined my home made "frame" with a standard wheel bearing puller kit (about $90) and it worked like a dream...
I've got three wheel bearings that need to be done so I guess it's time to learn how. Any suggestions on tool combos? I know I can spend 450 on the B90 set but was hoping to get out a little cheaper than that.
I was looking at the OTC Grappler and then an adapter kit for it. Does anyone know if this kit will work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AZ...PRY515K103RG1S
All suggestions are appreciated.
I used a Sir Tools kit with a lot fewer parts than the B-90. Got it from Auto Atlanta and it was a bit over $200. I looked this morning and couldn't find it on their site. Anyway, the subkit had all the parts to break the bearing off the hub, but nothing to pull the shell out of the hub. For that I used my dremel to undermine 2 slices almost through the shell at which point a cheap 3 prong cast puller was able to finish the job. When I get home I can at least take pix of the tool and maybe get a part number.
I think the OTC Grappler plus an adapter kit like the one from HF or the one you linked is a good combo for around $200. See this video here of them in action: (somewhere in this series of 3/4 videos)
You Tube
I was able to borrow a SIR tool kit to do mine on my Boxster, the only part I had trouble doing myself was pulling the inner race off the hub after pulling the hub - on the fronts I was able to use a 3 jaw puller but on the backs I had to take them to a shop and have my buddy remove them with a cutoff wheel.
Also it looks like the OTC grappler arms might be able to pull the rear hub without having to take off the parking brake shoes, which I had to do to use the SIR Horseshoe puller. It was a hassle...
I don't know if you've seen this thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...oval-tool.html
but, I was in the same situation last spring when I replaced my suspension. I decided to just whip up my own tool from some scrap steel that was laying around at work. I combined my home made "frame" with a standard wheel bearing puller kit (about $90) and it worked like a dream... Good luck
I know this is a basic RTFM question but do I need a press to complete this job or will the above tools do the trick?
Thanks!
Nicely done! After 20 years, my welding is still more of tack then a bead or else I might give it a try.
This may help:
You Tube
Another video was linked back in September here with mention of a cheaper tool kit.for extractig bearings- Post #9
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post13705181
Ha!!! ^^^ Did you happen to notice my welds? Not very pretty, but they do penetrate so they held just fine!!! I pretty much NEVER weld anything anymore unless I absolutely have to (I learned on a stick welder back in Junior High some 40 yrs. ago...) which in this case I did...
I watched that video when you originally posted it but chickened out. The local machine shop will do it for $60. But now I have 3 that need replacing and it would be nice to be able to do it on my schedule.... The video dude is who I got the grappler idea from. The adapter set that came up was $85 just for shipping, but now that I've looked again there are some better bargains.
Upon further review, that looks alot like my globs!
But if it had a enough penetration to withstand that much force, then it sounds like damn good welds to me.
Glad it was helpful.
The adapters are scattered over EBay because of different terminology. Try a search for "FWD bearing adapter 23pc" .The 23 piece is the big set. And refine the search by checking 'lowest price+shipping' otherwise you'll get scammed on the shipping charges.
Use PB Blaster/Kroil !
I bought the Sir Tools B90-P2 to do the job. I looked a second time on Auto Atlanta and could not find it. Price was 190.95 plus shipping two years ago. The -P2 does all four corners of a C2 and the rears of a C4. A -P1 is needed for the fronts of a C$. Anyway this is a subkit. It only splits the bearing. The outer shell, at least mine, is almost one with the hub. I broke a cheap puller (left picture with the hub on the floor after I caught it with my foot) and then two more. Next up was the Dremel with a cutoff bit. Two stripes 180 offset and 80% through the material made it so the last unbroken puller could do the job.
Looking back at my notes, I bought a 32mm socket for the hub nut and an impact screwdriver for the Phillips screws behind the wheel. My screws came out easily, but some don't and if you strip the threads you are so screwed, so an impact driver is recommended.
Notice that there is no horseshoe in the subkit. The horseshoe is the key to pulling the outer shell out of the hub. I wish I had a horseshoe. I may weld one up but I have Lancia work first.
**Also remember to put those bearings in the freezer for awhile (at least over night) before doing the install to the wheel carrier - it really makes a big difference in how they go in.
Yes dporto, definitely a trip in the freezer and some grease.
Regarding needing a press. The need for the press is to remove the outer shell from the hub, not to press in the replacement bearing. Please don't be annoyed by me being triple redundant here (look at my name). If I am wrong here, chime in.
Ditto! Not a problem
In my case, no "horseshoe" necessary... I made a really simple "bridge" adapter for my bearing puller set and was able to pull the hub with that (see photos here -
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...oval-tool.html
). Also, the outer race of the bearing has enough overhang in the carrier that you can pull it out with a washer or one of the adapter plates (I think I just used a large thick washer). Also, both my front bearings came out in one piece, so it was a really simple process.
Man, I wish I would have found that before I did my job... As long as those "J" legs aren't too long or short, it should work fine. If I remember correctly, the depth/length of those legs should be about 4.5"...
I ended up going with:
OTC 6575-1 Hub Grappler Puller
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005PL1PDA..._1TkqybQKZ39A9
and this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/291916653940
I'll get measurements on the grappler and report back on how everything works. And thanks everyone for the heads up on the pitfalls, those are always the most valuable.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
