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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHAOS - Disconnect the cooling circuit
Leading reported evidence
Fill nylon
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
BTW that little plastic bracket holding the tube on your first pic gets very brittle with age, its just fiber filled nylon.
Leading evidence: 'Fill nylon' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect hoses at the ends away' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
This will allow me to use nipples filled with epoxy/silicone at the top to remove the AOS from the cooling system.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The same sort of plug was used on the other hose to the AOS.
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Use woodworking joint bracket and air hose type connectors
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I'm using a woodworking joint bracket and air hose type connectors.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Dowel wasn't my initial plan, but it will work until I either replace the AOS or decide that the heating effect of the coolant isn't needed in my climate.
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Suggestion · Original poster
You can change your oil, some filters or buy a battery, but past that everything sees to be about just pimping your ride with fur, air freshners and blue LEDs.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
It lasts a long time...15yrs/100k still not broken.
In response to my previous post on the coolant leak near the AOS on my 2004 Carrera, there was a suggestion that I find the leak, cut it out and connect the two hoses, thus bypassing the AOS entirely. This would at least stop the leak. And this would be ESPECIALLY useful if I were able to disconnect the hoses at the ends away from the AOS.
Looking at some diagrams, a connector rather obviously identifies one of the hoses. (Pic #1) Not sure really, but given that this seems to connect to the block, perhaps it is the source of the heated water?
The other is more of a guess. Looking at a pic of an actual engine with the AOS unit visible from the rear of a removed engine, both of these hoses seem to move toward the back of the engine in a 'bundle' of hoses/tubes. Looks like three. One of them is not a radiator hose, one is the one in Pic #1 mentioned above and the last connects to a hose down near the water pump. (pic #2)
Pic #1 Bracket rather much ensures that this is one of the hoses.
Pic #2 Not sure here, but this seems to be a possibility for the second hose.
BTW that little plastic bracket holding the tube on your first pic gets very brittle with age, its just fiber filled nylon.
It will likely snap as soon as you stare at it more than a minute, so plan on replacements or fabbing a metal replacement.
When mine failed I added some metal and kind of potted it all in JB Weld, it seems strong now.
If you see that part is original, replace it immediately. Only takes a minute to pop the airbox out and replace with a brass piece, but it will keep you from getting stranded somewhere in the near future.
Mine just failed and cost me some track time. Don't think you can re-connect the coolant lines with what's left of that plastic piece and limp it somewhere, I did and it popped again not 5 minutes later.
Just purchase one of these and install it while you are at it. Note that you will need a spring type hose clamp for the bottom hose as the factory is crimped on and the crimp clamp must be cut off...make sure you order one of those too...a spring clamp just like the one on the top hose.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...06-226-52-M157
Woke up this morning to a large number of very helpful posts. About the only thing lacking was an offer to fly over to Japan and do the actual disconnect. Have to come up with a plan for the brittle connector, but if it breaks I can plug the supply with an appropriately sized piece of plastic rod. Perhaps cut the return ~5cm above the connection and do the same. The leak should stop and then start making plans to put in a new AOS and hoses.
Thanks to everybody. Any further comments are welcomed and I will post pics and updates.
Schnell Gelb posted a dual-sized recommendation of 5/16--1/4. Assuming that is correct, and knowing the hoses are different sizes 3/8 would be a 16th over, which perhaps is inconsequential. But the 3/8 would be an 1/8 over on the smaller hose. Perhaps okay, but still a 50% increase in diameter.
Given that the bottom hose is supposedly crimped on, and thus has to be cut, measuring the I.D. of both hoses would likely be the best path. I'm just going to plug supply hose for now anyway. But I'll see if I can find a 3/8" to experiment with and see how it fits the smaller hose.
Also, I'll be working in metric. 7mm falls dead in between those two sizes, so maybe...
Agree to an extent. But my profile pic gives a rough idea of my 'garage'. When I start work I need to have as many eventualities considered as possible. Finding things here in Japan isn't always easy. And if it IS easy it often means 'expensive'. I ordered a coolant cap and ended up paying $50 for a non-genuine Porsche cap. Blau, but not the genuine Porsche as advertised. I could have sent it back, then I would only be out $20 with no cap.
So, yeah, a little over-thinking is prudent.😉
Yeah, get rid of the plastic junk in pic one, just like everyone else says go with the brass, or plastic connector piece. I used plastic, and a new spring type clamp. I then reinstalled the bolt, and zip tied it off to the bolt, holds great, and no one would ever know thats not what comes from the factory, autobacs should have everything you need, lol.
Not so sure about AutoBacs. I wanted some Loctite gasket sealant such as 5900/5920, but figured they would have some Permatex UltraBlack or Copper. Nope. Not a thing. AutoBacs is for pimping out your ride.😜
The 3/8 brass coupler fit. I drilled out the plastic piece to hold it, but snapped it upon installation. So, I made a standoff out of thin stainless steel. It should do the job.
If you don't want to fabricate, the prefab one for $40-ish is a decent deal.
I'm in the process of doing the same thing. I'm using a woodworking joint bracket and air hose type connectors. This will allow me to use nipples filled with epoxy/silicone at the top to remove the AOS from the cooling system. Then when I replace the AOS I just have to buy a couple more nipples at $1.50@ and connect the hoses.
As for the pre-fab, it looks very cool, but since I am not tricking out my engine bay, it is super overkill.
(I'll post some pics later. For some reason I can't post pics from my iPad.)
The bracket seemed to be in very good shaped. I was able to pry off the hose without any damage. So rather than cut the crimped on hose, I left it in place. After taking a 10cm section of hose and putting some silicone inside, I put a section of 8mm dowel in, pushing the silicone ahead to make a solid plug, and clamped it. Dowel wasn't my initial plan, but it will work until I either replace the AOS or decide that the heating effect of the coolant isn't needed in my climate. The same sort of plug was used on the other hose to the AOS. I then blew through one of the hoses to both clear the lines and ensure that I had the right two hoses removed.
Took it out for a drive and the leak is gone. Almost certainly one of the coolant lines has a leak.
NOTE: I found some 9mm stainless steel stock so I cut a couple of small pieces, pulled out those makeshift dowels and plugged it up right. It is SO difficult to find any DIY automotive parts here in Japan. You can change your oil, some filters or buy a battery, but past that everything sees to be about just pimping your ride with fur, air freshners and blue LEDs.
Thanks. Now I can at least drive it to the golf course on Fridays. The weather here in the Kansai area of Japan is still rather warm to hot. Yesterday it was 27C, so I'm not worried about condensation.
I'm getting ready to tackle the replacement job next. The mechanic I was talking to is out. He did my car inspection and the wheel bolts came back tightened to 160~180 N-M, 35~50% over spec. If the guy can't work a torque wrench, I don't want him working on my engine.
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