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YOUR RESEARCHIt's always the last bolt...
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Replace diagonal control arms, common source of noise over bumps
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Suggestion
If you are going to replace things "while you're in there", also replace the diagonal control arms, common source of noise over bumps from the heim-joint end on the front.
Leading evidence: 'Replace diagonal control arms, common source of noise over bumps' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace diagonal control arms, common source of noise over bumps' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
"If you are replacing the entire axle, then there are two different methods you can use.
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Suggestion
If you are going to replace things "while you're in there", also replace the diagonal control arms, common source of noise over bumps from the heim-joint end on the front.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
At this point would it be much more work to remove the strut to replace the upper strut mount?
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Suggestion
You can remove the entire wheel bearing carrier (detailed in Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Wheel Bearings on your Porsche 911 Carrera), or you can slide the axle out of the hub if you have enough clearance.
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Replace diagonal control arms, common source of noise over bumps
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
If you are going to replace things "while you're in there", also replace the diagonal control arms, common source of noise over bumps from the heim-joint end on the front.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
If you are going to replace things "while you're in there", also replace the diagonal control arms, common source of noise over bumps from the heim-joint end on the front.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion
You can remove the entire wheel bearing carrier (detailed in Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Wheel Bearings on your Porsche 911 Carrera), or you can slide the axle out of the hub if you have enough clearance.
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So I've went through the entire process of removing the front axle on my 02 C4 to replace it because my outer boot is ripped and all the grease is gone. The axle is completely seized up in the wheel carrier. I've hammered and hammered on it and it won't budge. What is the correct tool to get it removed? Perhaps a bigger hammer? I tried to rent an extractor from the local auto parts store but it was too small. Please help
Put the old (now throwaway) axle nut back so you don't bugger the threads on and hit with a BFH (Big F*^#^ Hammer). The heavier, the better. You could also use a air hammer, but the risk of damage is higher.
lol. I will attempt a sledge then tomorrow. Not too worried about ruining the threads because I already have. I ordered a new oem replacement axle earlier today. I was more worried about hitting the rounded things the rim fits around and bending them. (not sure of the terminology but you can see them in the picture) Might have to look in to the air hammer thing.
Good point. A puller would be another good way to do it.
Doesn't a puller also put a lot of force on the bearing though, just in a different way - a steady push versus a momentary impact? I don't have the knowledge or experience to know which is worse.
Not that Wayne Dempsey is the authoritative source, but a big hammer is what he recommends too:
"If you are replacing the entire axle, then there are two different methods you can use. You can remove the entire wheel bearing carrier (detailed in Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Wheel Bearings on your Porsche 911 Carrera), or you can slide the axle out of the hub if you have enough clearance. Unfortunately, you have to remove a bunch of suspension components and lift the rear wheel carrier up high in order to get the axle out from underneath the transmission (see Figure 6). In addition, the axle will often get stuck in the wheel hub due to corrosion or rust--it may need some encouragement with a big hammer to be removed."
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._CV_Joints.htm
I'd opt for a puller as the primary tool over the sledge. That being said you may have to give it a few "shocks" with the sledge hammer as well (if you can do it with pressure on it with the puller that's even better). Also make sure you use plenty of Kroil/PB's etc... Good luck
I think I would crank on the puller a bit and then heat it with the puller in place. Seems like the least potential for collateral damage to me. A propane torch should be enough heat if it is loaded with the puller.
You have already banged up the threads. I have an old brass boat prop shaft that is an excellent tool for banging on stuff. Heat with a MAPI torch, set nut on end of shaft, hit with a sledge hammer. That will work. Remember, the bearing carrier and wheel bearings are used to red hot brake disc heat. Why is your rotor still on there? Take it off.
Heat and a BFH. Get it really hot, then let it cool to heat cycle it a few times. Remove anything that can melt first (ABS sensor??). Turn the nut around and put it on to protect the threads. MAP gas is hotter than propane, you can buy both at Home Depot. Be sure to take appropriate fire precautions.
Got a bigger hammer and grew a pair and hit the sucker really hard about 10 times and out it went. Thanks everyone for the pointers. Had a blow torch on hand just in case but didn't use it. The replacement will be here on Monday. At this point would it be much more work to remove the strut to replace the upper strut mount? It's making some noise over bumps.
I watched a YouTube video on it and it showed it can be done with the rotor and caliper still attached and it worked out perfectly until trying to get this last bit out.
You should soak these sort of connections with a penetrating oil before trying to break them. I've had the best results with a 24 hour soak after applying Kroil, but anything is better than nothing.
WD-40 is OK for other uses (WD is for "Water Displacement" and 40 comes about because the first 39 formulations didn't do the trick. It was first used as a corrosion protectant for the skins of Atlas missiles), but it's a fairly poor penetrating lubricant.
On the plus side, WD-40 is available everywhere.
If you are going to replace things "while you're in there", also replace the diagonal control arms, common source of noise over bumps from the heim-joint end on the front.
