Top on '01 C2 Cab only retracts part way......

My top will not retract with the dash switch as my Spoiler light on the dash is on (another issue that I am working on...bad micro switch). So...I used the "put the key in the door and turn to the left and hold" trick. And, sure enough, the top activates and begins to retract, smoothly I might add, until it's about 2/3 of the way down then it comes to an abrupt halt. I can turn the key to the right and the top goes back up (again, smoothly) seals and locks. I do not think it is the hydraulics...it's seems like something is "stopping" the roof somehow. You thoughts? Ideas? Solutions? Greatly appreciated........... This is as far as it will retract........

I am also fighting a cranky top on my 99 Cab so tuned in to hear any ideas. Mine will open all the way but then the cover will not close as the lateral flaps do not deploy. The spoiler light should not stop it as that always comes on until you drive forward a little, at least on mine. The trunk switch appears to be working or it would not even start top open. Maybe the hatch is not opening far enough to allow the top to continue ?? I don't remember if there is a micro switch on it or not. Try (gently) pulling the hatch back a bit and see if it will go farther. Reach down the sides and see if there is any fluid leakage from the actuators, maybe just a bit low on fluid and that is as far as it can push it ?? Some Say that the E-brake needs to be on, but I think that would not even allow it to start. Mine works fine without ever putting the E-brake on. Anyway how can the owners manual say you can open the top up to 20MPH with the E-brake on. Maybe it just needs to be reset or synced or whatever they call it ?? I'm a just talking out my back side here Marc

No idea about the first, but I have the lateral flaps not deploying answer, maybe. They are dirty. You need to clean/lube the screw. Had it happen to mine. Bought used flaps to replace and while they were on the way I found a thread somewhere about cleaning and it worked. So now I have extra 996 flaps on my basement.

When the top is in that position, reach under the rear window and remove the wire bobbles and the liner. Visually check that all parts are in place (nothing fallen off under the flaps) then spray WD40 or similar lube on all working parts. Snap the wire bobbles back in place. Send the top back and forth a few times and hopefully the movement should rectify the fault. Don't even bother putting the grey liner back until the fault is resolved. I would have the engine running when you are doing this to prevent draining the battery. Keep us informed of your progress. Rest assured that you are not the only person who is having problems with the cab top. BTW the top should not move unless the ebrake is fully applied. Of course some DIY people bypass the micro switch in the hand brake (ebrake). Then the top can be activated when driving. Always put the wires bobbles back in place before activating the top again. You will not see the micro switches (if there are any to see under the rear window carpet). Get to the moving parts and spray WD40 on them. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Sounds like a microswitch is not activating somewhere. The flaps or clamshell would be my guess. Is it showing any codes with a Durametric?

OK.....I'm on it. Trying all of those great tips. Will advise. Thanks

Tried them all.........top stowaway hatch is wide open....no fluid leakage found anywhere....moving parts are quite clean....lateral flaps seem in position and ready to deploy when the top is stowed...cannot find the "screw" to clean & lube...reached under the rear window from the front and rear found no "wire bobbles"....and, is the "liner" the grey carpet-like thing (front & rear)....cannot locate any micro switches. 1. I think I found the fluid filler cap (see photo). How do you check the level? 2. Where is the "screw" mech. on the side flaps to clean & lube? 3. Where are the "wire bobbles"? 4. Where are the micro switches? Thanks again..............

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One other thing I thought of. on the sides of the hatch there are two hooks with a short bar that connects them. Make sure these have not come undone. Danged we are trying anyway. Marc

Step 1 is service/check the hydraulic fluid. Do this first and report back http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-step-by-step/ You will have to join renn tech and maybe make a small donation but it is worth it

yeah, i just checked the link, you have to be a member - do that first

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I think they are referring to the wires in pic #1 http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Mechanism.htm

You need to get the convertible top in service position, fold up the rear window (by removing the rear window cable guide ends or "bobbles"), and then remove the entire rear carpeting panel. Then you can start diagnosing this problem. Here is a step by step guide to get started. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Mechanism.htm Follow the first 5 steps, and then report back.

OK......went through the step-by-step procedures on "Convertible Top Mechanism Repair". Found all pieces and parts that you folks have said to look for, cleaned, and lubed. Checked Hydraulic fluid....clean & full. No "visible" obstructions to top retraction. Top still goes up & down smoothly until it reaches the point you see in the original photo. THOUGHT: I had to replace the battery this Winter...could that have done anything to the "reference points" for the system to operate correctly? And....does it require a Porsche Factory Computer to reset them???

At this point I am tempted to use the manual retract to get the top down (I only drive it in good weather anyway)...but, I read that this operation may foul up those "reference points" as well. Your thoughts........???

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Sounds like DIY troubleshooting options has been exhausted. My 2 cents: bite the bullet and take it to a trusted indy. Best of luck.

Since you have pretty much tried everything I think the next step would be take it to the stealer or a good indy and get the top synced. YES putting it down manually will mess up the sync DAMHIK: So what have you got to loose. Try putting it down as far as you can, then move both lateral flaps about 1/2 way up, then try the dash switch again. If it continues to move down stop before the rear hatch closes all the way and manually put the flaps all the way up. Then enjoy the wind in your hair until ?? We only have two dealers here in Denver, WTF is up with that, so it may be months before I can schedule an appointment to get mine in. On another note, my Durametric would not sync the top, BEAUTY of a car BTW: Best of luck. Marc

My 2 closest "Stealers" are 210 and 219 miles away. My "Indy" is only 65 miles away....but does not seem to know too much more than I do. I sure have a nice view of Mount Shasta though! I guess I'll go the manual retract route and stay outta the rain. Anybody know a "good" Indy in Medford, OR???

Get a durametric on order.

A durametric might help read fault codes, but it will not allow recalibration of the top. I still say you have a non-functioning microswitch somewhere, and you just haven't found it. Just my theory.

OK.....I agree that my problem may be a micro switch......or the top is "out of calibration" for closing completely. So...... 1. Where are those switches? I am still searching the diagrams that several of you directed me to..... 2. Could me having to replace the battery cause the top to go "uncalibrated"? It worked fine last Fall. 3. Is the Dealer the only place I can get the top "re-calibrated"? 4. I may be reduced to opening and closing the top manually....have not tried it yet, I did find the tool. Is this operation simple or a P.I.T.A.? Thanks once more for your help, Larry in Mount Shasta, CA

Trying to help. Read this http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic.../?fromsearch=1

dgjks6......thanks for the micro switch info. I am trying to digest it now...then out to the garage and look for those "monsters". As you can see....my top stops in the #3 diagram in the Tech. article that you directed me to....I shall focus my energies there. THX

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I have one and it is great for the limited things it does. Unfortunately it will not check or cycle the individual components of the convertible top and that is what is needed in this situation to determine if there is a bad component or if it is just out of sync. This is kind of sad for as much as the Durametric cable and software costs. I have other diagnostic programs for other cars, like BMW that will do all of this and were free with a $12 cable. Also on Motorcycles, well at least Moto Guzzi and Ducati. But saying that I think it is worth owning Durametric just be aware that it is very limited in what it can do. That write up over on RennTech was great but all it said was replace the convertible-top latch. I remember the days when we fixed stuff and did not just replace assemblies. I would think a micro switch could be replaced instead of replacing the entire and EXPENSIVE component. But I guess I am just out of touch. Still rooting for you Lars. Marc

Thanks Marc.........at this point any "support", moral or otherwise is appreciated. I will conquer this bugger in my own garage!!! (famous last words). Yes, I have a Durametric....nice tool, but...you are correct sir, it will not re-set my Top limits! Now....If I could locate what we used to call the "limit switches" for the Top retraction and test them that may be a solution...........the diagrams that I was sent are good but a bit rough when they are "expanded"....microswitches are small! And....again, I may be Ok with just manually retracting the Top and leave it at that for the "driving topless season".....but, get caught in a rain storm.....and, how difficult is it to manually crank the Top back up??? I have been told that using the manual lift mech. really may mess with the "open & close limits" in the controller. But....if the microswitches are good then those limits have already been reset incorrectly and what have I got to lose by going the "manual" route!?! Ah, to have my "simple" old, reliable '82 SC Targa back. You just lift the Top off!

OK - arm chair quarter back - but I now have all of your answers first go here and buy this http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-911-...xWW36v&vxp=mtr I think it is a pdf of the repair manual that I have. I just looked through mine. There is a pic of the location of the microswitches. It appears that there are 3 switches in the top if the roof by the latch. This I think is what the diagram I posted earlier is talking about, but I have no idea what the pictures in that diagram are of. One of these micro switches on your car must be bad. There are also lots of diagrams - for example - how to open and close the top with the tool

dgjks6...................Done & done! Thanks...... I'll be pouring through it tomorrow!

You only get one copy, so what ever computer you put it on it is there for good. And it is under the section body/exterior - there is a tom of info - hope some of it helps