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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSuper Stiff Clutches?
Leading reported evidence
Replace clutch parts including the spring
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I thought I was the same until I replaced all my clutch parts including the spring.
Leading evidence: 'Replace clutch parts including the spring' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'wear in' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace clutch parts and don't' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When the car got here I had it "federalized", I used my one time EPA exemption so that the engine did not have to be changed, just the DOT.
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Actually I did see what may have been that car for sale some years later, in the Pano, and I think the engine had been replaced with a standard 3.0
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I drove the car it was fantastic and I bought it, we used the car for 2 weeks in DE and they shipped it to the US for me....
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Suspected cause
I suspect the wear in that case happened in all kinds of other places in the driveline.
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Suggestion
They had just taken this Targa back from the owner as it "wasn't fast enough" (built up 3.2 motor) I got a Test ride from one of their "mechanics" (little did I know that they are all race car drivers) scared the s**t out of me....
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23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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So I took my car to a mechanic for an inspection and they noted that my clutch pressure plate is in need of replacement, as the clutch pedal is very stiff. I wanted to know if anyone knows of a way I can get a new clutch and keep that super stiffness? I love how stiff the pedal is and when I've driven other cars, I tend to have a very difficult time adjusting to how soft their clutch is, even the ones that they consider "Stiff". Since stiffness is probably relative. The best way for me to put it is like this. If you want to push the pedal all the way down in my car, you'd find yourself slamming your foot into the floor in any other car. (If anyone knows a good way to quantify this let me know, this is my first car so I don't know how to go about explaining this)
This could also be your clutch helper spring that is stiff. I'd say if you replace all your clutch parts and don't replace the helper spring it will be still just as "heavy".
What you're probably feeling is the clutch spring assembly binding inside the canister making the pedal super heavy.
Ah I see, by any chance would you know how to see if I have the assist spring still? I don�t think I have it anymore, as the cruise control only works if I put my foot under the pedal and lift up to hit the micro switch.
You'd be able to see it if you stick your head under the dashboard and look up at the clutch spring:
You Tube
There is a spring you can get that is heavier than standard from mccaster - just look up the thread it has the part number. You'd probably have to buy a canister though - just buy a used one off ebay.
You could look into a different pressure plate with stronger "fingers". There must be racing clutches around (I know there are for other brands of car - I've used them on a track car).
It�s funny that you and I like stuff clutches, because many people don�t. Some can�t even drive a clutch because it can hurt their leg/knee.
I would first remove the helper spring. Secondly, you can install a heavier clutch. Heavier clutches are often required for higher torque applications, such as drag racing. The downside to a heavier clutch can be increased wear, though, so talk to someone knowledgeable before proceeding. It�s like not there�s a lot of 996s being drag raced, although a turbo clutch might work.
I don't understand that. Increased wear on which part(s)? As I understand it, they're just stiffer springs/fingers, so it takes more effort to release the pressure plate.
I guess it depends on how the car is driven. Higher spring rates by themselves probably don�t cause increased wear unless the reason for the change is to cope with higher engine torque.
The OP will have the same engine output, so it�s less of a concern.
For racing, higher spring rates cause higher force on the disc, which leads to higher heat during slippage and more wear. The slippage happens when trying to shift as fast as possible. It�s similar to brake pads. They wear out faster the harder we press on them.
In 1984 I bought a 77 3.0 Carrera from KREMER Porsche in Kohn Germany.
The car was an Oak Green Metallic Targa that they had "built" for a client, I was in DE at the time buying some "Grey Market" BMW 323's (a long story for anther time), anyway I had decided to buy a 911 for myself. I was with a friend who knew Manfred Kremer so we went to the showroom. We got a tour of their shop...WOW basement full of ex race cars...and you could.."eat off the floor" in the shop.
They had just taken this Targa back from the owner as it "wasn't fast enough" (built up 3.2 motor) I got a Test ride from one of their "mechanics" (little did I know that they are all race car drivers) scared the s**t out of me.... I drove the car it was fantastic and I bought it, we used the car for 2 weeks in DE and they shipped it to the US for me....
When the car got here I had it "federalized", I used my one time EPA exemption so that the engine did not have to be changed, just the DOT.
Where I was going with this is that when I tried to use this car as a DD in NY. to go from LI to Queens, the clutch was so stiff that I couldn't do it ...I sold it to some one who came to see it from "out west" he bought it and "drove it home" No idea what happened to that car...But that CLUTCH...WOW
Actually I did see what may have been that car for sale some years later, in the Pano, and I think the engine had been replaced with a standard 3.0
I see what you are saying, thanks.
I don't suspect a typical sport clutch (I think Sachs makes one) would be too harsh on a daily driver or lead to excessive wear. Only my opinion though, no facts to support it.
When I had a heavily sprung clutch, it also had a four puck Kevlar clutch disk with no springs. It had two modes - on and off. Combined with a lightweight flywheel, it grabbed immediately, there was no dampening, and very little mass, so it was very tricky to relearn taking off from a standstill. It also had a supercharged engine from another model, a sturdier gearbox and a quaiffe did. I suspect the wear in that case happened in all kinds of other places in the driveline.
Yep I like the stiff clutch especially when I'm in stop and go traffic because it turns everyday into leg day. I was considering the gt2 clutch system but i'd be surprised if it didnt cost a fortune
I tried doing that LI to Queens trip before this was when i just got the car and the clutch was really stiff feeling to me, now im used to it. Lets just say that it made me think about hitting the gym....
Oh man. I have to admit, everything about what you just described is what i want to do with the car i have, Get it up to 400, get a light weight flywheel and a quaife ATB diff
but in reality, Ill be lucky to even get the Diff
FYI a LWFW won't net you any power - it just changes the way power is delivered (just in case thats what you were referring to - if not disregard). It's not recommended on the M96 the engine is not designed for it.
Some run a LWFW and take the risk but its not recommended. Previous owner put one in my car I removed it.
Don't use a pressure plate stronger than necessary to hold the torque/power of the engine. The 3.4 uses about 1600 lbs pressure, the 3.6 about 1800 lbs, the 3.8s use about 2100 lbs.
When the clutch pedal is depressed, the pressure needed to release the clutch disc is countered directly by the thrust bearing in the center of the crankshaft. ( the small half-moon shaped plain bearings) . These bearings keep the crankshaft from moving forward and backward, the force from the clutch is directly applied to the bearing on the clutch side. Increasing the pressure above what is needed to hold the torque/power adds unnecessary wear/pressure to the thrust bearings. Also never sit at traffic lights for long periods of time with the clutch depressed.
The helper spring in the dash does not increase/ decrease the actual pressure exerted by the clutch, it only effects the "pedal feel" and is installed to make clutch release effort less.
It is also worth noting that a soft engagement is also very easy on the drivetrain. I have seen aggressive clutch discs along with high pressure plates bust gears in the trans on quick shifts. A soft engagement or slight slip is a good thing here.
My 996 appear to have lots of slip if driven incorrectly (slamming the clutch closed with WOT when RPMs are not matched). My friend doing this type of driving was complaining that the clutch isn�t strong. I told him the 996 isn�t meant to be slammed around like that. My clutch never slips when I drive it, and it behaves very smooth and feels great otherwise.
Sounds like your friend was trying to see if he could/ would break your car. I would return the favor or worse. Ask to drive his car, then stop dead still, floor the accelerator, count one one thousand, then side step the clutch. Do that a couple times to heat up the tires, then once more except count to two thousand, on some sticky pavement. If it is still roasting the rear tires and hasn't broken an axle, differential, or trans, tell his clutch is OK...he should thank you for testing it...lol
