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YOUR RESEARCHHow do YOU drive your car?
Leading reported evidence
Replace clutch and retrofitted the ims bearing
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As far as downshifting - I replaced the clutch and retrofitted the IMS bearing when I bought the car.
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Suggestion
Also there was a recommendation by JR to not start the car with the clutch in as well, can't remember the exact reason why - for US cars you may need to disconnect the clutch switch to be able to do that.
Leading evidence: 'Replace clutch and retrofitted the ims bearing' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'little dangerous' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect clutch switch' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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It was probably a little dangerous, but I was HAMMERED drunk at the time, so it's all good.
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Suggestion
Also there was a recommendation by JR to not start the car with the clutch in as well, can't remember the exact reason why - for US cars you may need to disconnect the clutch switch to be able to do that.
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Suggestion
I think I've read on here folks recommending about 1500 as a downshift point.
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Disconnect clutch switch
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Suggestion
Also there was a recommendation by JR to not start the car with the clutch in as well, can't remember the exact reason why - for US cars you may need to disconnect the clutch switch to be able to do that.
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58 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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The question is a little tongue in cheek, but the request behind it is semi-serious. I bought my car in April, and having driven it cross-country and on weekends since then, I really don't know if I'm driving it "right." To explain further, my last manual was a piece of crap 4-speed Chevy Monza I drove in college 20 years ago. I don't even remember having any fun with that thing, only that the clutch lockout broke every couple of months it seemed like.
In this car, the sweet spot seems to be between 3K and 4K, so in 2nd, 3rd and 4th, I generally try to keep it there. Is this too aggressive? Not aggressive enough? Does everyone here engine brake? I used to downshift through the gears, but lately I've been waiting until I'm going slow enough to get it into 2nd, and that's the only downshift I do. I am hoping this saves a few miles on the clutch, but again, I don't know what I'm doing. My clutch helper spring broke, so I removed it and since then I feel like I can sense the clutch bite better, but I still feel like I'm burning the clutch in first sometimes. The best way I'd put it is I can inconsistently get a good start.
Anyway, I appreciate any tips from veteran 996 drivers to both get the most fun out of the car and/or tips for keeping it healthy. I also plan to take the PCA up on a DE session, which they promise is safe for both me and the car. I am thinking these sessions aren't as aggressive as HPDE sessions, and therefore easier on my car.
Thanks!
The owner's manual tells you not to upshift until at least 2700 RPM if I recall correctly.
Drive it like you stole it....definitely keep it above 3K RPM!
I just drive around in second gear so the tires constantly spin and break traction. The exhaust also sounds the best in second gear IMO, so the rest are really a waste.
For those periods when it's running perfectly and no parts are breaking off - for those 10 seconds or less - nothing else matters.
I used to have a Boxster, so I previously drove my car wearing a negligee and matching scarf. But that's not important now.
Have you ever been in a Turkish prison?
You are overthinking it a bit too much. I drive with cruise control on during my commute typically just above the speed limit. On the streets it depends on traffic. Just enjoy your car!
I feel like I've heard this somewhere before....., Abraham Lincoln quote?
Either way, 10 seconds or less in a 996...., someone has been smoking the devils lettuce!
That's a flying time, not from a dig. A quarter mile in 10 seconds - even for a 996 owner terrified of IMSB failure - is totally doable if you don't have to start from 0...
My routine:
- keep engine under 3k until coolant goes over 150F
- keep engine over 3k when warm
- when going below 3k, blip throttle downshift
- engine brake where convenient (you should already have the rpms up over 3k!)
- respect that the synchros will be fried if you manhandle the shifter & drive it like a pickup
- use shell v-power gas
- use injector cleaner every 1,000 miles or two
- when weather allows, run a 50-100 mile circuit in the mountains at least once a week
That's really kmph right? I didn't know the cruise would set at 160+. This is really a stationary pic when your gauge lights were acting up...right? Or...is this on the trip to Lost Wages which may more fully explain the pipe through the tire and associated damages...
Cruise tops out at 159 indicated, 156 actual. I had my laptop in the passenger seat and my handheld Garmin in the hand that wasn't holding the phone. Very legit. Much accurate.
I believe variation is important for engines; so keeping it between 3-4k does noet make a lot of sense. Once the engine is thoroughly warmed up I like to rev it to 6-7k regularily when going thru the gears. Do the same on my bikes. However, I do have a 3.4, that engine really likes to rev!!
Yeah, that was me! I totally didn't see you, but I was going nearly 160 and was very distracted. It was also a school zone, so I was having to watch for cops.
Thanks! It was probably a little dangerous, but I was HAMMERED drunk at the time, so it's all good.
Before I get reported to The Authorities: you can use Durametric to test all of the gauges, including the speedo. The next time you want to go 160 in a school zone while hammered and hanging out the window, fire up the old Durametric in the driveway.
Highly recommended.
Seriously,,,yes the sweet spot IMO is between 3-4rpm for city slicking. But these cars need to be pushed from time to time, I mean get to 5rpm and work it baby. Drive it like you stole it man, they are made to go!
I try hard to ignore everything Porsche ever wrote about the m96 engine and listen to those on this board that spent time rebuilding them to make them better. Seafoam is supposed to be good.
Cool. I know what you mean...I did not know if Porsche even had a recommended injector cleaner/interval. I am normally afraid to dump any aftermarket chem product into the motor...LOL. Sorry for the thread jack, was just wondering if injector cleaner was common practice.
Mark is absolutely right. You might worry about IMS until ~100k miles and RMS to ~200k miles but then you need to start worrying about paint erosion due to friction.
Drive it, break it, fix it... repeat!
Maybe I'm off base here but personally I'd rather use the brakes to slow the car than engine brake. Reason being brake pads and parts are significantly less costly than engine parts.
That's what I've always said. Aside from atypical circumstances (steep downhill, snow, etc) you don't want to use the engine to brake. If you are approaching a red light, for example, I don't think it's advisable to run down through the gears. I just slow up in whatever gear I'm in until I put it into N as I come to a stop. You should just be in the right gear for when it's time to accelerate, so if you're approaching a green light right hand turn, for example, then you'll slow and put it into 2nd with a nice rev-match downshift. Then accelerate out of the turn. Rev matching will dramatically reduce clutch wear.
Overall, I have picked up these tips about the flat 6: they DO NOT like to be lugged, it's bad for any car and according to Porsche, particularly bad for this one. I rev it modestly until warm, then I drive it like I stole it! Loving it so far.
This is exactly how I drive. I consider each clutch operation a "wear" item, and each shift another "wear" item, so I don't downshift except as you have described. If you ask me it significantly increases the life of the clutch as I have 141K on the OE clutch. You don't have to beat the thing to death to still experience the horsepower and bandwidth of the engine. And anyway, since most of my driving is city streets, I rarely ever get beyond 3rd gear.
You are overthinking it, dude. Just enjoy the car.
Here, a video might help. Here's how I drive my 2002 C4S.
Sorry for those who know I've posted these several times already, but I've traded in my car, so I miss it and keep playing these videos.
On the street:
You Tube
On the track:
You Tube
There are people that go to ridiculous ends while taking care of their cars. I've read some guys that raise the hood after they drive because they've "heard" it cools the engine faster. Then there was the guy who washed his 996 after every drive - even if it was just around the block.
I applaud all of you who have the bandwidth to think through and apply all to rumors and overcare to your cars, but I drive the crap out of my 99, downshift when I feel it (there's absolutely nothing wrong with downshifting if you do it moderately), wash it occasionally and do regular maintenance.
Exactly the same as me too, used to love engine braking I've stopped doing it ever since I joined this forum. When stopped leave in gear roll and before stopping clutch in and into neutral.
Also there was a recommendation by JR to not start the car with the clutch in as well, can't remember the exact reason why - for US cars you may need to disconnect the clutch switch to be able to do that.
Hey Guys. Thanks for all the informative replies. I appreciate the tips from folks who have driven a manual more often than I have. I thought I was alone on the engine braking thing, but apparently I'm not.
And I am not babying this car. I haven't over-rev'd it, but it has seen the upper reaches, particularly on on-ramps, where I can make the cars around me go all blurry. I was just curious if I could extend the life of the maintenance items by driving smarter.
Now that we got some snow here, it's probably away until spring. Which sucks, but there's already a ton of salt/sand on the roads.
I drive it like mad. It's not my DD, so I push it as much as I can when I take it out of the garage, even if it's just to HEB or the gas station! 3rd gear is definitely my favorite so I keep it there as much as possible. Of course it sucks gas that way, but hey, it's supposed to be a 'fun car', as my fiance` likes to say! I have something boring, bland and gray for my everyday commute.
This may be a stupid question but I tend to engine break a lot- does it have the same ill effects on a Tip that it would on a 6MT? I think I've read on here folks recommending about 1500 as a downshift point.
Starting from cold with clutch in puts extra wear on the crank thrust bearing which carries a lot of load from the clutch plate when clutch is depressed, not good on cold start with low oil flow!
That must get expensive.
As far as downshifting - I replaced the clutch and retrofitted the IMS bearing when I bought the car. Roughly 50,000 miles and 5 years later, including many visits to the rev limiter, and the clutch still feels fine...a little heel-toe can go a long way toward keeping the synchros intact and not converting clutch lining into smoke...
So it looks like your oil pressure gauge is jumping around like all the other 996s on the track, lol! Good to know your car is just like mine and all the others
I don�t think engine braking is such a bad thing if it�s done right. For example, if a light turns red a quarter mile down the road, I may lift off the gas and coast in gear. This saves the clutch, saves the brakes, removes heat from the engine, and saves fuel. If the light is still red, I don�t downshift, I just put the clutch in when the RPMs drop to about 1100 or so (when the fuel injectors kick back in). So that�s technically engine braking without much negative effect. If the light turns yellow, indicating that a green is coming, I�ll shift to keep my revs above 1500 for light acceleration in that gear.
If I�m looking to use any WOT, I make sure the engine is fully warmed up - after the coolant temperature has gone past 180 for 7 mins. This is the time that the oil is now at 180.
Some folks drive really slowly and carefully before dropping the hammer, but I have step in between that uses a good deal of progressive throttle and upwards of 4-5000 RPM and 60-75% throttle for a couple of spirited driving attempts before I use at WOT redline runs at 7300. My logic is that during a careful warmup, the engine might be warm, but the cylinders, pistons, valves, exhaust, etc., are not that hot and generating maybe 30-50HP of heat compared to 300HP of heat. So I like to get a little heat in the engine before I drive like a crazy person. I don�t think it matters that much
Yeah, the oil pressure thing really drove a lot of us crazy. There were a bunch of threads awhile back this year I went through and a bunch of folks all reported oil pressure drops on the track and sometimes even the street (spirited mountain roads). Then there were those saying it wasn�t affecting them, but honestly, they probably didn�t notice it. I mean you are really not supposed to be looking at the oil pressure gauge while in the middle of a tight sweeping right-handed turn on the track - it�s not the way to drive. But after reviewing a lot of 996 videos and Boxsters, watching the oil gauge drop, and after reading about the oiling system on these cars, it seems pretty common. A lot of people go and upgrade the oil pan, larger baffles, deeper sumps, different oils, etc., but the problem has more to do with the cylinder scavenging pump design and the lack of a true dry sump that causes the issue. And it�s a pretty common issue on some BMWs, Corvettes, too.
Thats it! Saved me from looking up JR's post! Thanks
I thought it could be disabled either physically or by a PIWIS change? My RoW doesn't require the clutch to be depressed before starting so i've adopted the clutch out start FWIW.
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