Annoying coolant drip!

Hey all, I have a very small slow coolant drip that seems to happen when the car is sitting. The dealership said they pressure tested the system and the leak did not appear. Picked it up last night drove home and this morning sure enough two drips of coolant in the same spot under the floor! Appears to be on the right side above the rear sway bar. Thinking it could be either hose 5 or 6 which luckily don't look overly difficult to get to access wise. Is it just a matter of draining the coolant and replacing the hoses? The coolant is under a year old so i'd like to not replace it if possible. Anyone have any thoughts or experience? Could the leak be coming from higher up? I did see the drip before it landed on the floor and it was on what looks like hose number 5. Thanks

Jack the car as high as possible and block the front tires. Use rear jack stands. Insert a large basin or bucket to catch the coolant and remove the offending hose. You should not loose a lot of coolant which you can re use when you change the hose. Test the hose by blocking one end and blowing or using compressed air on it. You say left hand side. You are in OZ and I wonder if yours is a LHD or RHD car. The reason I ask is when my water pump started to go out it left an egg cup of Coolant on the drivers side as the engine cooled down. Mine is a LHD car.

Quotes source post: 14214673

Thanks Hurdigurdiman, Yes my car is a RHD so the leak looks like it comes from the right. The water pump was replaced under 2 years ago so hopefully it's okay. Here are some pics, I actually used a selfie stick I bought in Thailand to take a video! Finally used it haha.

Those two hoses are super easy to get at. The engine itself only holds about 2.5 gallons of coolant (total system is 6 gal). Jack the back up as Hurdi says, and put a 5 gal bucket or large pan/bin under there and pull the hoses off. I'd replace the spring clamps with a good quality screw clamp while you're at it. Look around for refilling instructions - vacuum is best, but not imperative. Good luck

Quotes source post: 14214786

Thanks guys Interestingly in the EPC the clamps holding those hoses on are listed as jubilee clamps rather than the spring type ones so might more those as well. Makes sense to replace no. 5 and 6 at the same time. Just a quick confirmation that 5 and 6 are the correct hoses in that area? Quite hard to diagnose coolant leaks so hopefully it's those hoses Also are we talking vacuum to bleed the cooling system?

As it's really just the motor you're draining, it should refill fairly easily. Open the relief valve, refill and just start/run the engine, continuing to refill as the coolant circulates. You may have to top off, two or three times before it's totally air free.

I would refill as much as you can before you put the car back on the ground. The rear up angle should help burp the air out as you fill. Then follow dporto's procedure.

Where is the best place under the car to jack up the car using a hydraulic jack?

Quotes source post: 14215781

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/01-BASIC-Jacking_Up_Your_Car/01-BASIC-Jacking_Up_Your_Car.htm

Thanks guys, anyone have any experience in replacing these I can see the spring clips on the engine side of the hose but the other end seems to have some sort of plastic coupling?

Okay so got a few more pics today another two drips collected in a bucket. It might be getting worse Anyway, looks like that hose is covered in coolant, could it be coming from higher up? The main leak looks like it's coming from that hose. ​​​​​​Also any idea how to remove this coupling that joins the hoses?

Look higher at the engine block. The leak may be from the coolant cover plate. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/619805-help-problem-with-coolant-cover-and-coolant-refill.html Those are not couplings despite their look. The hoses are one-piece with the other ends covered by the under body plastic panels.

Quotes source post: 14216084

Thanks Ahsai, its quite tight and tricky to see. Is that plate accessible with the engine in place? Also what is the correct number for those hoses? In the parts diagram the one I thought it was looks quite short, unless there is another coupling that I cant see?

Yes, that plate should be easy to see and access. I think the hoses in your photos are #27 and #33 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=105-05

Quotes source post: 14216119

Thanks Ahsai! You're right I think they are 27 and 33 now looking at that diagram I'll have to get back under and see if if the leak is coming from higher up!

Ah, the exact same problem I had! Not hard to do except keep your face far away from the area when you are undoing the bolts. Ask me how I know. Really easy to do, I bought a new cover plate too not just the gasket (I don't think you can only buy the gasket).

318touring how did you know it was the cover plate? The more I think about it the more it might be the plate rather than the hose...

After determining it wasn't AOS, Ahsai pointed me to that cover plate. After a few days it was obvious that nothing from further up would be leaking coolant, after cleaning everything up.

Its quite odd, it wont leak when the car is running only when it has been sitting overnight. I dont have a good jack at the moment and i'm taking the car back to the dealership has im having issues with my clutch pedal, ill have them take a look. Hopefully they can determine if its the hose or if its the plate.

What I usually do is to jack the car up and place 3-4 wooden boards under each rear tyre. That gives me enough room to slide in under the car. More importantly it is safe! Obviously I then remove the jack to ensure that it won't be the main thing holding the car up.

I use the standard scissor jack then use jack stands with a piece of rubber on top of it placed under the subframe. If I had the space I'd get a 2 post lift, they are awesome. If you're heavy into the DIY there are also portable lifts too. Also my car has RoW m030 so it's ever so slightly lower so I've got a new super low profile trolley jack on order B)

So an update on this, looks like Ashai and 318touring might be right! Had the car on the lift at the OPC (for a clutch pedal issue - clutch pedal not returning to full out) and we were looking around for the leak. Looks like it's coming from that cover. If it does turn out to be that, the symptoms are no leaks under a pressure test or while the car is operating. Only when the car has been left sitting will a few drops appear directly under the rear swaybar on the right hand side (front of bank no. 2 - 4-6).

Hey guys okay so OPC it is ​​the cover plate that is leaking. They quoted me quite a few hundred to do it as they won't reuse the coolant. Anyone have a DIY write up on it? Assuming its something like: - securely jack up rear of the car - have a large bucket ready - undo two bolts, 10mm hex? - catch coolant out of the engine in clean bucket - install new plate with gasket - check if coolant is clean and strain before refilling, if it's not usable (i.e contaminated) purchase more coolant (matching what's in it - in my case genuine coolant). - follow coolant bleeding procedure Alternatively should I just drain as much coolant as I can through the engine drain plug and catch it in a clean bucket, replace the cover then refill? Also anyone have a part number or the plate and gasket? ​​​​​

Okay found the part: 996 101 01 600 Diagram shows a gasket but according to this thread and Ashai only the plate is required and so is draining the coolant or it will end up all over me... https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...g-coolant-lid/ Can anyone please confirm if I can just drain via the drain plug? I don't really want to start taking off hoses if I can avoid it. Is the plate accessible without removing the hoses beneath it?

As I said on that thread, I didn't drain the coolant. The car didn't drain itself off coolant. Just be ready and protect your face from splashing coolant. I bought a one litre bottle of Porsche coolant for refill, just in case. Only needed around half a litre at the end. Make sure your bucket is clean, strain the coolant before putting it back in the car. The plate will come with a new gasket. I didn't remove any hoses to get to the plate. Space is tight though. A couple hundy? That's crazy!

Quotes source post: 14220128

Thanks 318touring, did you dilute the coolant you added or did you just add some in to get to the same level in the reservoir? Did you bleed the cooling system as well? I might buy a 1L bottle of coolant and ditch what comes out if it's not too much. So get under, release two bolts, catch coolant, install new cover, fill coolant, bleed system and then beer? This might be an odd question but assuming you didnt have a lift how did you position yourself under the car for best line of sight and working access? Price I was quoted was $1300 including a slave cylinder however I was previously quoted $80​​​0 for just the slave so that leaves $700 for the plate. I'll need to clarify tomorrow as that seems ridiculously expensive... I also think they are quoting to drain and refill the entire cooling system and coolant from memory is around $250 for the full quantity.

Don't think I diluted the coolant - I drove around with the bypass valve (next to the cap) on the open position. Remember, eyes and mouth away from the splashing coolant! Jack one side, slide three wooden boards (20-30mm thick each) under the tyre. Do the same on the other side. Worked for me as I am small (t-shirt size S). If one is heavily build, one will definitely more space! When you get to a certain point when jacking the car up, the whole side will be on the air. To give yourself more room you might want to slide one wooden board under the front tyre one each side too. I can take a picture of my wooden boards tomorrow, if you like. Drain and refill with new coolant will indeed cost around $700 - if reusing old coolant then they are obviously just having a laugh. I bought mine from Pelican "OEM-99610101600 $21.75 1 $21.75 Genuine Porsche Part: CAP - This part may be shipped directly from the manufacturer. - This is a special-order OEM part and is non-returnable except for warranty replacement."

Thanks for that 318touring. I'll jack it up see how much access I have. Interestingy when I used the scissor jack on the weekend it lifted the whole side, I don't recall that happening other times I've lifted it up?? Also the dealership quoted me $40 aud for the cover and they have it in stock so ill get it from them. This is a main dealership here in Melbourne so *should* be new coolant!

Quotes source post: 14220141

It always will be - you'll need to be high enough though, at almost the full height of standard Porsche jack.

Interesting, could have sworn that wasn't the case. I really didn't like how the whole side of the car was up in the air haha.

A few more points that may be useful - depending on your MY, you may or may not need a seperate gasket of that plate. Just check with the dealer. - just drain the coolant out from the coolant drain plug at the bottom of the oil pump first before you remove the plate. 2.5gal will come out. Much less messy than coolant gushing out from the plate opening. - clean the coolant plug area well if you want to reuse the coolant. Must filter old coolant if reused...improvise on how to filter the coolant. - follow the manual bleeding steps if a vacuum refill tool is not used - on my '03 c2 stick shift, I only needed to remove the two bolt to remove the plate. Didn't need to remove anything else. Super easy. Just make sure the engine block opening is flat and smooth and free from old gasket material.

Quotes source post: 14220183

Thanks Ashai, car is an '04 build date is' 03 on most parts though. So I may only need the gasket? Was thinking for $40 I might as well update the part to the latest with the rubber gasket. Or am I missing something? Is the original design gasket - > rubber gasket - > metal plate? Then most remove the old gasket buy a new plate and install it without a new gasket?

For your MY (similar to mine), you should only need to buy a new plate, which comes with a built-in rubber o-ring that is not available seperately. The reason for the leak is due to the aging of this o-ring.

Thanks Ahasi, I've got the plate on order at the dealership. Now to decide whether or not to drain, quite undecided. I think the best method for me might be to pull the cover and deal with it coming out and top up with new coolant. Im not sure/confident in keeping the coolant clean as it comes out and while I do the job

Actually Ahasi, one other question with the OEM coolant is it a 50/50 distilled water mix? Or straight out of the bottle and into the reservoir?

Why not drain the coolant from the coolant drain plug? Much more controlled and the coolant will be cleaner as you can clean that area well easily beforehand. The OE coolant is concentrated so you will need to dilute it with distilled water to achieve 50/50. You can just use a clean cotton t-shirt to filter the used coolant.

Quotes source post: 14220222

Thanks, was thinking of disposing of the coolant that comes out of the plate and buying a 1L bottle of new coolant to top back up. However you are correct draining from the drain plug would be more controlled and wouldn't/shouldn't make a mess! What is the torque spec on the drain plug? Also the two bolts holding the plate? I read 8.5 in the other thread but I think that was a guess by the other poster?

@dan_189, as promised. This is how I get under the car. Disclaimer, I'm t-shirt size S and I already have to be quite careful moving around otherwise will bang various parts of my head against various parts of the car. BTW the stack of woods for the left tyre wasn't as dangerous as the picture depicts. At the point where they meet the tyre they are all of equal width. In case someone points this out :-)

That's some small space. I don't even think I could get my head under there...let alone my chest!

Thanks 318touring im thinking about investing in some ramps actually that was it will be easier as my car is slightly lowered on M030 suspension. I've actually bought the parts and 1L bottle of coolant but put this project on hold as it's stopped leaking for now. I'm going to get a vacuum refiller as I think it will be beneficial in the long run

Quotes source post: 14235476

I'm t-shirt size S, however in the US I think I would need to buy size XS. Definitely won't work with M030 suspensions though. And I did say that I would need to be real careful down there of not moving my head too much as it would be a painful experience. I do need real ramps, @dan_189, any suggestion on Super Cheap's offering that will work with cars like ours?

I'm a size S so shouldn't have too much issue being under there! Good question 318touring I was looking into actually. Seems raceramps and rhino ramps are popular. Supercheap don't have a lot on their website I might have to keep looking. I think the 285 width might be the biggest hurdle!

Rhino eh, apparently not that expensive but I can imagine freight costs will be double the cost of the ramps themselves. A few options: Oz based https://raceramps.com.au/40q-sport-ramps.html Rhino (is this the real one? At Walmart. Of course) https://www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoRamp...658#about-item NZ but only 200mm wide? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-...1337892211.htm The search continues ....

I've had the walmart ramps for years, they come in very handy.

I've seen some caravan ones from supercheap, most are actually only 3" high which to me seems like it won't actually be enough. Race ramps are crazy expensive, the ones I saw were over $600 thats almost halfway to a portable hoist!

Quotes source post: 14238676

And they won't be able to get your car as high as half of what a portable host would!

Quotes source post: 14239427

Exactly, 3" wont give you much space to do anything as well

Okay so im going with the uview airlift and ordering it soon from Amazon Few more questions, is draining from the coolant plug enough or do I need to start detaching hoses to fully drain the system? My idea was drain coolant from plug, replace plug using 15Nm torque (replace washer) then apply uview and collect remaining coolant. Add collected coolant to the rest of the drained coolant. Get pressure to 27hg. Swap hoses other end in coolant bucket and watch the system refill? Another question, im contemplating a 3rd rad can I drain the system via the plug and then use the uview to suck out the rest? I. E. Instead sucking up coolant allow the system to suck in air, to relieve the pressure then add the 3rd radiator after removing the uview and then start the vacuum fill process again? Or just drain via the plug and not worry about using vacuum to drain the system entirely? Thoughts?

I second the RhinoGear RhinoRamps from Walmart, will raise wheels 6 3/4" for $39.00 and have a 12,000 lb capacity. I use them with no clearance issues (front or rear) and have 295's on rear.

Quotes source post: 14244010

Only $39 US with free shipping here https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11909ABMI-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp/dp/B0117EETEK https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11909ABMI-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp/dp/B0117EETEK That is really tempting although I've just calculated using freight forwarder: NZD156 .... plus the original cost, of course

Quotes source post: 14244100

They do work great but I would highly advise that after car is on ramp a set of jacks be placed under car (at the proper locations) since I would never put my life in the hands of a plastic ramp (or steel ramp for that sake).

Can you use just 1 RhinoRamps say for the front right tire to change oil? This is for a non Porsche.

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif