Transitioning to the track

I am wanting to start doing some track days in my car. I'm a total newcomer as far as track days go and wondering what I should do to prepare my car for track use. Here's a little about the car. 2001 C2 with 103xxx miles on it. I've owned it since it had 88k and in that time it's gotten: -IMS upgrade -new clutch -RMS -AOS -all new coils/ plugs/ wires -all new rotors/ pads -replaced suspension with factory plus H&R sport springs -today it's getting new front wheel bearings and strut tops What steps should I take to ensure a good track experience?

As a beginner you don't need much beyond a car that is all up on it's maintenance. The M96/97 engine is prone to oil starvation so at least an X51 oil baffle, or better yet a deep sump is a good idea. Also make sure your engine mounts are good. Joe Gibbs XP9 racing oil is recommended but maybe not needed at first. Get a good helmet. Driving shoes are not required but nice to have and you can get a decent pair for $100-150. A nice set of driving gloves too. I like Sparco stuff personally. Other than that get out there and have fun! As you gain experience you can modify the car further as your skills dictate.

Agree with everything Nickshu said. X51 baffle or similar at a minimum. Long right handed sweepers can be particularly hard on the M96. Monitor for oil pressure drops in long sweeping turns during warm up laps, even if you install the X51 pan or deep sump. Also, make sure your brakes are properly bled and your fluid is fresh. Braking on the track will create way more heat than anything you can do on the street. I would guess this is the case based on the recent brake job, but I want to be thorough. Have fun and remember, "Smooth is fast".

Upgrade to Motul 600 brake fluid and make sure you have the brake ducts installed. Invest in a motive power bleeder and genesis bleed cup and it's a very simple DIY. But only use the Motive to pressure the system, don't actually put the fluid in it. I didn't have the break ducts on for the last track day and brake fade is no bueno. +1 for the X51 baffle.

The best thing to do for the track is to tighten up the nut behind the wheel; and I mean that in the nicest possible way. To get ready for a big track and depending on where you are located, a AutoX in a large car park would be a great way to start. Learning the limits in a place where you can't hit anything or hurt the car is a great start to driving at (your) limit. Porsches, right out of the box, are ready for a day of racing, sounds like you take good care of yours; any good DE will require a tech inspection to make sure the car is safe. POC and PCA have excellent schools, a day with an instructor will improve your skills and give you the confidence to tackle traffic and a big course. Which can be intimidating for a newcomer suddenly thrust into a venue where folks are towing their track cars; albeit that they are in more advanced run groups. Far more fun to get your feet wet when you can concentrate on having a good time instead of not F8cking up.

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There are a lot of threads about this topic on here, so try searching and you'll get lots of info. Bottom line is that you have already done everything you need. Just make sure you have fairly fresh fluids in the car (particularly brake fluid and oil). Make sure your oil level is near the top, but not over-filled. Listen to your instructor and take it easy your first few events; you won't be setting any records, so just focus on being smooth, learning, and getting a feel for how your car behaves on track, and then you can build speed gradually. OE brake pads and fluid will be fine for your first event as long as they are new (I run in the advanced group on OE Textar pads; they work fine). Same with tires; as long as you have a reasonable amount of tread left, any decent street tire will be great for your first events. Just be sure to take a good tire pressure gauge so you can adjust pressure between sessions; you will likely need to let a decent amount of air out of your tires, because they will gain pressure as they heat up from driving fast, and generally speaking as the pressure goes up, grip goes down. Put air back in at the end of the day for your drive home. A couple times throughout the day check your fluids, glance at your brake pads to make sure you have plenty of material remaining, and re-torque your wheel bolts. Have fun and don't try to do too much!

Want to know one of the weakest points? Mine blew again today, and I used a brass hose bib fitting. That's twice that damn thing has blown. This will absolutely ruin a track day, and a drive home from the track. Time for the Solution. I just ordered one. See Part 18 here, and get the upgraded Rauch & Spiegle Improved Coolant Hose Connector http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=104-10

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Link doesn't work. Can you provide another one?

Good advice about car prep on this board. Equally (if not more) important is to approach it with an open mind, a willingness to learn, and most of all......listen to your instructor. Don't worry about other cars passing you - everyone gets passed - it's all relative. Learn the lines and be smooth and speed eventually comes. Don't drive beyond your comfort level as your ability and experiences increases. PCA has great DE events with instruction for beginners. Most of all, have fun and enjoy it.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=104-10 ??? Don't know why that isn't working

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Absolutely. Don't be the guy who goes over his head and ends up black-flagging the session for everybody by crashing. Nobody will be impressed, especially your significant other Here's a nice evening session cut short by somebody making a mistake in a big-hp car (go to 10:00 to see the results). You Tube

+1 on better brake fluid. I have boiled mine on the track, not fun coming to the end of a straight and the pedal goes to the floor. I am running Castrol SRF which is the best one out there, but also very expensive. Motul 600 is cheaper, not as good, but as a beginner should be fine.

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motul is excellent for just about every level of DE. If you are boiling that with even a moderately modified car, you have other issues.

Lots of good advice here guys! I live in Birmingham so Barber is the home track. Ill keep everyone updated

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Hmmm... all I recall you teaching me was "in a spin, both feet in."

Only other thing I'd add - make sure you are getting the most out of your cooling system. I'd remove the front bumper cover, clean out your AC condensers & radiators before heading on track. You will be moving at Barber , and will want to keep your engine as cool as possible. Enjoy - the 996 is awesome on track. It's very capable - almost shockingly so.

Brand new on the track.... tons of great advice above..... however.... Oil pan with baffles - yes - but not necessary in Green (you can hold off for a bit). High temp brake fluid - again - yes - but not necessarily in Green. Just have new fluid. Performance pads - sometime in Blue. Best thing you can do? - Have a humble, positive, coachable mental attitude. - Get lots of sleep the night before - you'll need it. First time on track is exhausting. - Make sure you know how to shift smoothly. - Comfort - shoes, helmet, shirt. - Get rid of the lap timer. It doesn't matter yet. - Study a track map and know where the flag stations are. - Remember - drive YOUR line - not the car ahead of you. - Eyes up.

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While true, not every green driver is without good skills and resulting speed. Motul 600 is $30 for a liter, vs $16 for Ate 200. Silly not to get the good stuff Stock pads will make it through the first event probably, but if you're replacing them at that point, there are better options for a street/track car. I use epc yellow and they are a good compromise baffled oil pan? yeah, first event or two on street tires might not be an issue, but if you run at tracks with banking, I'd say its better to have the baffling than not. GT3 brake ducts? Under 10 bux. Maybe the first event you just take the car as is, but if you decide its a hobby for you, you're gonna change everything anyways, so why not start out right. Cost outlay isn't outrageous.

I agree with you... I was simply pointing out that for someone that is literally just starting out - go see if you enjoy it first. Brake fade in the green group isn't (here in Florida at Sebring or Roebling in Georgia) an issue. What I meant by my post was simply this - go enjoy yourself. Don't stress out about changing a ton of components on the car for performance stuff until you decide that this is something that you want to do more than once or twice.

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true. I guess its just hard to think how a car guy could not like going to the track. Its pretty awesome. re: brakes, more thinking of wear. stock pads disappear pretty quick but shouldn't fade much.

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LOL I boiled my *new* fluid (Pentosyn super dot 4) in the green group....the next session they moved me up to blue solo, after a trackside bleed and safety check. Guess that served as my check ride. :-) A good fluid to start with is the ATE Gold. Motul 600 or 660 is better but it absorbs alot of water and needs to be changed frequently which is fine if you are doing alot of events but if you are only doing 1-2 per year may not be.

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Agree 100% for the first time track experience. Dehydration can also be a silent danger. Drink lots of fluids, enough so that you have to have a bathroom stop in between each run. Here's a video I made for students: You Tube

I was a beginner and had a failed rod bearing on my second track day--probably due to oil starvation. The engine builder who assessed the damage says that one of the relatively inexpensive oil pan baffle upgrades would probably saved my engine--a simple DYI install. Although I did have some suspension upgrades, I didn't think that a beginner on street tires could starve the engine of oil--but if I could do it all over again, I would definitely install the baffle, if not just leave the track days to a less-expensive toy. Edit: I wasn't running in green group though. Be careful if they move you up with the big boys!

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I'll clarify. Brake fluid - RBF660. Flush before every track day. DOT braided stainless brake lines are a cheap upgrade that helps with pedal feel. Titanium brake pad shims also help keep some heat out of the brake fluid. 2 Quart Deep Sump - When you use a tire that is a lower treadwear # than the factory recommended N spec tires. Usually 200 treadwear is pushing it with the stock oiling system. Choice of oil - This is a big one. I know some will say you aren't racing in a DE, but the engine doesn't know that :-) We recommend a track oil if you are taking the car to the track. We use Driven XP9, but there are other choices. Oil level - After adding the deep sump, run the oil level one bar above the minimum or at the minimum level. This will make your AOS happy and reduce the amount of aeration that occurs, which leads to oil starvation. Another poster recommended cleaning out the rads. That's a must too. Be sure to replace your water pump every 4 yr/50k miles and add in a low temp thermostat.

I would use RBF600 over 660. 600 has a higher wet boiling point and since motul likes to absorb water, I think the wet boiling point is more relevant. Also, 600 is far cheaper. If I was gonna pay for 660, I would use SRF or Endless