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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHhood & engine lid won't open
Leading reported evidence
Replace air filter and since
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I changed the air filter and since then the trunk and engine releases are froze shut!
Leading evidence: 'Replace air filter and since' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'dead battery' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust air box' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
To unlatch the front trunk lever, use a very thin shaft straight slot screwdriver (I used an Xcelite R3323 which has a very thin 3"shaft).
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Suggestion · Original poster
After changing the air filter the engine lid would not close until I adjusted the air box.
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Suggestion
If the stops are adjusted too aggressively so they are compressed when the lid is closed, this puts constant tension on the latch such that opening it again can be a complete b***h.
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Suspected cause
It sounds as if that trick is all you need to do if the cause of the problem is a dead battery.
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Suggestion
If the stops are adjusted too aggressively so they are compressed when the lid is closed, this puts constant tension on the latch such that opening it again can be a complete b***h.
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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New to me 99 C2. Looking for advice on how to release the lids. After changing the air filter the engine lid would not close until I adjusted the air box. I noticed that the lid needed adjustment anyway before changing the filter, so I turned in the rubber stops a bit. Closed the lid and it is now frozen closed. Both front and rear latches on the door sill are frozen as well. Before I start playing around and forcing something I figured I'd ask those who probably know for some suggestions here. Thanks for any help. Mike
yeah right ^^ ...repair shops are for ex tankers, infantrymen improvise
...found this little gem on renntech..after I realized that earlier in the day I had set off the alarm by not starting the car quickly enough after I opened it with the door key...silly me
"....which requires a small screwdriver and flashlight. It allows you to open the front hood lid in about 10 seconds once you learn the trick. My procedure is outlined below:
1. Both trunk levers are cable operated. When the alarm is set, a solenoid latches the two trunk levers. If the battery dies while the alarm is set, it is necessary to open the door with the key. Opening the door with the key does not unlatch the trunk levers since there is no power to operate the solenoid.
2. To learn how to unlatch the trunk levers, examine under the front trunk lever by looking through the slot between the two trunk levers with a flashlight. Look for the tab on the underside of the front trunk lever. Directly below the tab is a small U shaped cutout. When the lever is pulled up, the tab drops into the small U shaped cutout. When the alarm is set, a small white plate slides over the small U shaped cutout from the center of the car towards the outside of the car. This prevents you from pulling up the lever because the tab cannot pivot down into the small U shaped cutout.
3. To unlatch the front trunk lever, use a very thin shaft straight slot screwdriver (I used an Xcelite R3323 which has a very thin 3"shaft). Slide the screwdriver between the two trunk levers and insert it between the solenoid plate and outside rear edge of the U shaped cutout and slid the plate toward the center of the car and pull up on the front trunk lever.
To test this procedure (without waiting for a dead battery):
1. With the drivers door open, move the black door latch to the closed position, the second click. This is done by using a screwdriver to move the black lever portion of the door latch toward the outside of the door until you hear a distinct click followed by a second distinct click. IMPORTANT: At this point do not slam the door shut since the door latch is in the latched position and may be damaged when making contact with the door jab. Step 4 explains how to reset the door latch.
2. Lock the car using the remote or key. The alarm will be set and the trunk levers latched. Don't sit in the car because the alarm is set.
3. At this point you can use the above procedure to open the front trunk. The alarm may sound when you pull up on the lever since you are opening the trunk. This is determined by the front trunk switch adjustment.
4. IMPORTANT: After opening the front trunk using this test procedure you must unlock the car using the remote or key followed by pulling up on the door handle to unlatch the door latch. "
That's a great write-up. Thanks for sharing it.
It sounds as if that trick is all you need to do if the cause of the problem is a dead battery.
If you find that the solenoid is locking up again, even with a good battery, then you should still swap the ignition switch. That's what happened to me - my battery was fine.
Remember that an ignition switch going bad will cause all kinds of electrical gremlins, not just the frunk and engine bay latch solenoid. If your battery is good, then that solenoid locking up may be/probably is a sign that your ignition switch is going bad. So while you can use the thin screwdriver method to get past the solenoid, that's just curing a symptom and not the disease. A bad ignition switch can easily leave you stranded.
There are two types of replacement ignition switches - the cheap one is about $9 to $12 and the expensive one is $26 to $30. It's relatively easy to change yourself - you don't need to take it to the shop (even a retired Navy guy like me can do it). It is such a common failure that I keep a spare one in the car along with the only tool needed to do the repair, which is just the tip of a very small flathead screwdriver.
Anyhow, glad you got the car open and thanks again for sharing the info on how to bypass that solenoid.
If the stops are adjusted too aggressively so they are compressed when the lid is closed, this puts constant tension on the latch such that opening it again can be a complete b***h. Having someone press lightly on either side of the latch while you try the release lever might do the trick.
My frunk latch was recently stuck as well. I closed the doors, locked the car with the fob, then unlocked it with the fob, opened the door, and the latch worked. It's worked fine since. No screwdriver needed.
I found this thread through a google search and hope this write up works.
I changed the air filter and since then the trunk and engine releases are froze shut!
It does work. I had to do it about 4 months ago. Dead battery completely locked everything up. Just be patient, skinny screwdriver, good light. Good luck.
