Never over heat again....

Im trying to never get my 996 to overheat again in the next millennium LOL . The engine has just been rebuild from an over heating issue. To solve this problem and never worry about the same issue again, I was thinking of going with the high performance radiators on both sides, and a lower temp thermostat. Do they make a much more powerful water pump then the stock? I know they have different impeller composites, but no one says anything about pump pressure or gallons per hour. How are you guys dealing whit this issue? I do drive it pretty hard throw the hills and every place I get a chance to. Right now I'm watching the water temp like a hawk. And not really feeling comfortable driving it to much or to hard .

What about installing a center radiator?

An engine that runs hot is not the same as an engine that is overheating. Unless you can demonstrate specific overheating issues and temps, I suggest you have a little more faith that Porsche does know how to build a car. I don't thing there is any statistical evidence that the water pump is too small...and the operating temp of an engine is part of the emissions system. If you are driving your car on the track a lot you might consider a third radiator. Can you share what specifics are the cause of your engine rebuild?

Using a higher-flow pump without increasing the diameters of all of the other piping, engine flow capacity, etc. will just result in the pump working too hard trying to shove an incompressible medium through a fixed-capacity system...you'll just wear the pump out. A low-temp t-stat will get the system completely online a little more quickly. Increasing the amount of heat exchange surface, the efficiency of the cooling medium, and (if necessary) the efficiency of the heat exchange surface are three components to help the car dump heat more quickly. Adding the center radiator if you don't have it as Vitamin C suggested adds a significant amount of radiator area. If you're in an area where freezing isn't a reality, using distilled water and Water Wetter may be a better option, since Water Wetter claims to have superior heat transfer properties over antifreeze/coolant mixtures. I realize it's only a single data point, but my 996 (with center radiator installed) has never had any overheating issues, regardless of the ambient air temps. What were the details of your previous overheat? Are your purge fan and radiator fans working properly? Hitting the hills hard and then getting back into city traffic with your fan(s) not working could definitely cause or exacerbate a heat issue. Also check to ensure that all of the ducting is clear and that an aftermarket body kit or other add-on isn't interfering with airflow. Check all of the hoses to ensure you don't have a kink or constriction that is preventing the coolant from circulating properly. I'd also check the ancillaries - the AC, alternator, etc. - to make sure one of them isn't suffering from a failing bearing or other condition that would make the engine work harder than it's supposed to.

The only way you can guarantee that it won't overheat is if you don't drive it.

After having a thermostat issue and then a system bleed issue that would cause my car to begin heating past normal, I now have a car that runs a little cooler. I installed the oem low temperature thermostat and diluted the coolant with a 40coolant/60 water ratio. I also installed a new expansion tank cap as the old one wouldn't hold enough pressure. It's been bulletproof up to now.

I am not aware of a widespread, endemic overheating problem with these cars. Even the guys in the desert report these cars do very well in the heat. If your car is overheating, it is likely sick rather than just being a "normal, hot-running 996."

A lower temp tstat will not stop your car from over heating...if you believe that **** drop one in a pot of water on the stove and see if it stops the water from boiling. There is something wrong with your car

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What are you 12? Does your daddy know you are talking about his car online? Every time you post you are berating someone like some douchebag preteen punk. Not sure that you care but I thought I would at least give you the benefit of the doubt and let you know how you come across to people. Grow the f up!

Your best bet is adding a center radiator, new coolant tank, and potentially thermostat. Then make sure there are no air bubbles in the system.

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so you think a lower temp tstat will stop water from boiling? thats interesting. Either having a lower temp tstat will solve an over heating issue or something is wrong with the car? I'm on the fence with this one? On a side note, I have been being a wiener...ill make an effort to stop

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Cool. Much appreciated.

I have this problem sometimes in my Land Rover Disco, which actually is a car with a long overheating history. Make sure your cooling system is working properly like everyone else says. Add a third radiator. Tiptronic cars should already have it. And in a real bad overheating emergency situations, open the windows and crank the heat up. Your interior then becomes the heat sink and yes it does work.

There was one aftermarket radiator company here IIRC https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...che-996-a.html

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I replaced leaking turbo radiators with those. Very nice fit and operation. You might even get a Rennlist discount.

Early last century I had a one of the first Lotus Elise's. It was a great, fun car, and we did a few mild mods in an effort to wring more from the engine - nothing drastic, but what we did do with great success, was to fit an electric water pump system that could be manually controlled in terms of water/coolant flow and/or fan on/off etc. It worked wonders, and it also released a small amount of parasite power form the engine too. It was also particularly good after a hard run you could leave the pump/fans on after shut down so it keeps cooling the engine and avoids heat soak etc. These are the guys we used: http://daviescraig.com.au/category/electric-water-pumps Good luck! AT

OP, the only times I've seen my water temps climb are in heavy traffic in a hot day or on the track. But they still stabilize. For your driving I'd say there is something wrong with your cooling system or there was something wrong with your engine which caused it to overheat. Obviously it's just my best guess. I would pull your front bumper and the radiator ducts and inspect for debris, damaged AC condenser fins and/or damaged radiator fins. As others have said there is the third radiator kit which has been proven to reduce peek coolant temps by 10-15deg IIRC (if your coolant temps were running high).

Move to a cooler climate - never overheat again - 100% works:

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This is what BMW and now Porsche are using - electric water pumps (not driven by the engine/belt). I was skeptical at first but I have a digital read out for water temp in my BMW 128i (info taken from OBD). It works just as you describe and is actually pretty smart. Together with the T-stat it alters the flow and amount of coolant going to the radiator. Under high demand or heavy load the coolant flow increases and T-stat opens up. You can see the water temp drop to cool the engine. During light throttle or cruise the temp goes back up to a "normal" higher temp. Very slick.

Kurt They've been used for many years in the local V8 SuperCars racing series here in Oz. The kits are quite sophisticated and offer much better cooling during normal and/or hard driving. In the Elise I had, the temp gauge would stay at wherever I wanted it to regardless of how hard I was pushing it. Drive hard - water flow increases and fan/s cut in. Drive like a citizen, water flow decreases and fan/s cut in when called for... Plus the additional power released from the engine as it no longer has to drive a water pump anymore. Eventually all ancillary equipment like water pumps, power steering pumps, A/C and hydraulics will all be driven by electric power - its more efficient. AT

if your car is overheating it is because something is wrong with the factory components, not the design. I have run the **** out of my car in 110 degree heat and then idle in traffic for 30 minutes and never got close to over heating. You got some other problem, dont put a bandaid over a bullet wound.

Indeed. As a NOTmechanic, the lower threshold thermostat opens up flow to a larger surface area in the system, thereby allowing greater cooling. Or, perhaps it contains magic cooling pixies. Judge for yourself. Temps where I live have been routinely 100-115 in the past month. My 996 runs at 180-justpast180 in town, though admittedly most driving has been short distance. Still, I've considered a third radiator just for the 'belt 'n suspenders' safety of it. Along with the lower temp thermostat. Any input on whence to get the best kit for this, and/or any other suggestions for those of us considering better cooling protection? I favor the 40/60 coolant/water idea, given that the lowest recorded temperature in history here was +25. Once.

I picked up my center radiator kit from ECS tuning. No complaints.

Thanks, Jon.

Thanks for your feed back guys. The car does not over heat. Since the engine has just been rebuilt to the cause of a cracked piston, (so the mechanic said). I'm wondering if there is a way to never having that issue again. I don't know what cause the car to over heat in the first place. I did regular oil changes 4-5k miles, the fluid was always pink, then boom cracked piston @128k. I personally don't know what causes a piston to crack. I do drive it hard, but I don't abuse the car. Asking the mechanic he said mostly over heating. Just trying to get a better understanding so I don't run into this problem again.

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I'm using the same kit, no complaints here either. OP: be aware that the center radiator is effective primarily at higher speeds (e.g. highway) -- there's no fan behind it, so it relies entirely on airflow.

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oh my sweet summer child...You've only just had your first encounter with M96 motor issues. Brace yourself, Winter is coming.

A low temp thermostat and replacing the coolant with a waterless one like Evans helps a lot and is easy.