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YOUR RESEARCHCleaning Engine Bay?
Reported or suspected cause
quality of the materials
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Reported cause
For the 996, having owned an '04 GT3 in mint condition, the problem is the quality of the materials.
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No not armorall...unless they changed formula, they use silicates in them that actually dry the rubber out...look shiny when wet, but bad for rubber.
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After that he used the air pressure gun to dry the hidden holes.
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I've used Armorall for 15 years and never had a problem.
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He waited for a couple of minutes and then used the karcher directly to the engine.
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Suggestion
From cleaning paint and adding swirl marks to cleaning the engine or underbody and promoting rust or removing irreplaceable factory surface treatments (eg.
Clean painted, clear coated, and polished alloy wheels
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Suggestion
I use it mostly in the engine compartments (when warm, not hot - you don't want to hear water sizzle as it hits an exhaust manifold!) but also use it to clean painted, clear coated, and polished alloy wheels on the BMWs, the F-250, and the 951.
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Suggestion
I prefer to take the end off of the hose and let water simply run over the motor to clean things up...but pressure from a standard hose nosel isn't going to cause any issues.
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the Armorall has worked for me for 15 years, so I keep on using it until the day that it disappoints me.
Those of you that clean your engine bay (calling Orient Express
), how is it done PROPERLY so as not to damage anything. The engine bay in my CAB is filthy and I have decided that it's time for a good spring cleaning. The layers of dust go all the way back to the front of the motor (ie, the back).
I was just thinking of using my power washer with a soft spray nozzle instead of the concrete cleaning turbo tip? My concern is water spraying into places it shouldn't if there are any.
Thanks for the tips!
ps. reading a few past threads it seems that the soap soaking and water spray seem to be ok???
Hey Dell,
I am not as over the top as Orient but I use soap / water and a soft paint brush with just the garden sprayer. Never have had a problem. I do not have any oil leaks or such so just to get dirt and dust off this works fine for me.
You cannot get water into any place or component that will cause any damage so just spray away. Just make sure you drive the car after cleaning and bring the engine up to full temperature for 30 minutes or so.
What I do:
After warming engine (not fully up to temp, but warm), cover all fluid reservoirs or caps (P/S, oil fill) and electronic components (alternator, TB sensor/stepper) with plastic baggies or grocery store type plastic bags. Spray everything down with a mixture of 75% water / 25% Simple Green. Let soak for 5-10 minutes, or until you see the mixture starting to dry. Rinse with "jet" pressure from adjustable garden hose nozzle (try to avoid directing a steady stream at any electrical connector). Repeat as required. Remove plastic bags, hand clean reservoirs/caps/electronic components, and then immediately drive the car until it is fully up to temperature.
Please explain the reason an alternator should not get wet. Something more than Porsche says so. Getting the alternator wet does no harm at all. There is nothing that can be shorted out. All functioning componants are sealed. All connectors are bone dry after a short drive in the car.
I power-washed my 996's engine compartment many times with the "concrete ripping" tip without issue. Electrical connectors have 3 barriers (3 rubber lips)for water protection.
I would focus underneath the intake, that is where a lot of debris gets caught on top of the motor due to being flat.
I agree with '99, the alternator will be unscathed (sp?).
+1...this should work well in most situations. I prefer to take the end off of the hose and let water simply run over the motor to clean things up...but pressure from a standard hose nosel isn't going to cause any issues.
Thanks for all the input fellas! :Cheers:
I am going to put the car up on the lift and start by spraying form underneath and then I'll spray from the top. Of course, the "mandatory" drive after to dry it out is the best part!!!!
Doug....why do you cover reservoirs that already have caps/covers/etc??? Sounds very easy to do and takes maybe 5 whole minutes just trying to understand the rationale since I don't see how water is going to get in them. Or is it just more of a precautionary "why not" thing to do?
More of a precaution than anything else but also a hold-over from the way I do things on my front-engine cars and truck, which have vented brake reservoirs (you don't want to be spraying water on those) in the engine compartment and in some cases questionable cap seals (P/S and brake hydroboost reservoir on the F-250).
And, it only takes a couple of extra minutes.
one more old school trick...if you cover stuff do it with Aluminum foil as it's much easier to form and keep in place on whatever you're covering. Obviously you have to use some common sense if there are bare connections on the back of the alternator.
Andy
I've never washed mine...After washing the car I open the lid and use some towels to dry everything off. I use some aero 303 on rubber/plastic parts and make sure the intake is dry.
Okay, we have the "before" pictures. Now be sure to post up your "after" pictures once you try the above advice. I usually do things by hand but would like to find out how well the hose down technique works.
I was just power washing the bottom of my sailboat, and thought this might really clean up the bottom of my engine in my coupe, but had some reservations about water intrusion. Guess the previos posts suggest otherwise, so I may give it a try. Thanks for the info.
I only do it on a cold engine. Spraying a hot motor, to me, will bake on the soap. Plus, I have a thing about spraying metal that is hot with cold water.
Right on the bottle of Simple Green "Do not clean wheels, engine..... when hot" That stuff is not as simple as you like to think. Dangerous to eyes and must be used in a well ventilated area.
My own personal experience after using it for years on the fender wells of my 928 is that it ruined the paint and turned it white from red. I no longer use this stuff and if you feel the need for a cleaner stronger than Ivory buy the Griots Garage stuff.
I have never had a problem using it diluted with water to a 50/50 or less concentration. I use it mostly in the engine compartments (when warm, not hot - you don't want to hear water sizzle as it hits an exhaust manifold!) but also use it to clean painted, clear coated, and polished alloy wheels on the BMWs, the F-250, and the 951. Those wheels all look new. Because it strips wax, I try to keep from spraying it on paint whenever possible.
Don't use dish soap...it is one of the more aggressive cleaners out there...it can ruin plastic and rubber and seals (if they go untreated afterwards). What ever cleaner you use do dilute it as suggested.
Good to know. Glad I posted this thread! Looks I am going to just go to my straight water method and see how it turns out before I decide if I need any type of "cleaners".
Thanks again for the input!
I don't clean mine. It's not very dirty at all so what's the point? If I ever sell it I want the buyer to be able to tell the engine is dry and has been for a very long time.
No not armorall...unless they changed formula, they use silicates in them that actually dry the rubber out...look shiny when wet, but bad for rubber. Try Aerospace 303 serioulsly.
I learned never to Armorall on anything black you eventually don't want to look faded. I have read many places 303 makes good products. Been wanting to try some.
Water hits the bottom of the engine at 60+ mph when you drive the car in the rain. I would avoid filling the intake with water directly, but other than that, you won't hurt anything. Anyway, definitely remember to post the post- pictures.
I just knew this thread was headed in the direction of the Armorall vs. 303 battle
I got sucked in and bought some 303 and am not very impressed. And I don't use Armorall either. What I do use I am not saying
Meh! I don't have an affinity for any product.
I just want something that works.... the Armorall has worked for me for 15 years, so I keep on using it until the day that it disappoints me.
It's funny, I got an email from an ex-colleague over the weekend asking me to fill out a survey. He has been put in charge of developing an improved cleaner product, so was trying to get feedback on product emphasis. The survey was bogus, as it asked questions that even an idiot would answer yes to... "is breathing important to your continued ability to stay alive?". The amusing thing was that he totally missed the point in that most cleaning jobs have a rate determining step of how long it takes to move a cloth (or whatever) across a surface. He missed the aspect that I personally would pay for any product that means that I can go longer between cleaning cycles.
We all have products that we like and do the job, but I'm sure all of us would pay a premium for a product that keeps something looking cleaner for longer.
Although not a Chemist, Armorall does look better than 303 but not sure of the negative after effects. 303 is obviously a great product but I have trouble finding where you put it on at. Ok,
I read about the Simply Green/Armorall in a thread here and it did what I didn't think anything could have done to the engine bay of my car and the wife's Pathfinder. They were pretty well coated with dust from Arizona. Every other time I've cleaned the bays they would never clean out those coatings of dust near the brake resevoir or battery.
But with the simply green, all of the oily films were gone. I didn't think you could get that without worrying about the rubber being eaten by the cleanser. And no high pressure hoses were needed. Just a garden hose (as said earlier). You would swear they were new engines.
I just wish I knew about it before.
One comment is that when you spray on the Armorall, it will not look good until the next morning when the spray evens out. (This is after wiping off excess.) Mine looks like post #13 (without the carbon fiber) and post 14 before the wash.
I went to an old mechanic/car wash with a huge experience in engine cleaning.
First af all he lifted the car and sprayed the underneath and the engine bay with an industrial degreaser. This product is specific to degrease without damaging the rubber and plastic parts. He waited for a couple of minutes and then used the karcher directly to the engine. He applied water carefully with a secure distance (2 metres) and tried not to spray water directly to electric parts but he told not to suffer about the alternator, as It's not in a trouble.
After that he used the air pressure gun to dry the hidden holes.
Then I started the engine for ten minutes to dry up the engine.
All my friends went to this mechanic to get their engines cleaned up, and all of them were very happy with the final result.
You're not alone. Sadly there are very few 911's where the engine bay is aesthetically attractive.
Still, there are a couple of nice examples of how good it can look if it's just given a decent clean-up -- nothing too fastidious, just tidy.
I'd also add a 10+ year vote for 303 and reiterate the cautions about Armor-all (which is fine if you like the results and you understand the chemical interactions with the plastics in the cabin or body trim.)
in my humble, cleaning a car is one of those "does more harm than good" dilemmas. From cleaning paint and adding swirl marks to cleaning the engine or underbody and promoting rust or removing irreplaceable factory surface treatments (eg. wheel arches, cosmoline, alternator windings) it's impossible to give general advice that will suit everyone.
Personally, I say use the very least in all things. Conservation is the objective, not restoration. All things in moderation. ... that sort of thing ... : )
For the 996, having owned an '04 GT3 in mint condition, the problem is the quality of the materials. The paint (in my case, white) is good. The cabin leather is good (in my case, full leather made life easy and the cabin was always inviting.) But the plastics, the trim items, the fittings and hardware -- it's all pretty basic quality. I think this started with the 993, deteriorated from the 964 and got worse with the "Toyota" 996. The 997 is certainly better and much better thought through, but still, the detail-oriented owner is going to have to live with some less than ideal compromises. So maintenance becomes the labor of love.
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