Winterizing

So I've decided I'll be driving the 996 in the winter. Not too sure how it does in the winter. Any tips, or things I should get done before I take it out? I keep it indoors and heated when I'm at home, but at work it'll be outside for 12 hours at a time. I've got winter tires, and I'll be doing a coolant flush (I've tested my current coolant/antifreeze for -32, and that probably won't be enough for the really cold nights...) Anything else? Options for a block heater, etc? Thanks

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Get the winter rubber on when the temperature gets below 10 degrees C. I always give the car a really good polish and wax job just before winter. Prepare to wash the car once or twice a week. Get some huge microfiber towels for drying off the car at the spray and wash. With the giant towels, you can dry off the car in 2 minutes. After a spray and wash - dry off the inside of all the doors, engine compartment, hood as well. If your spray and wash joint has an air sprayer - I always use that to blow out the lock, and door and window sills, hinges etc, and by doing that, I have never had "frozen car" syndrome where you can't open the doors. Coat the inside of the wheels with Optimum Poli Seal or Michelin wheel protector stuff - makes it easier to clean in winter. Prep the garage a bit to deal with muck. Battery - I think Porsche electrics are pretty weak - something about these cars makes the battery drain on it's own if you don't drive it daily. I do drive mine daily, but if you go on a holiday for a couple of weeks, in a cold garage, it's not unheard of to have the battery go dead. I have been thinking about getting one of these "battery maintainers". Maybe you might consider a new battery with realistic cranking amps - it might add weight, but if you get a Canadian Tire eliminator battery in there, it might give you piece of mind. Check the motor out and familiarize yourself about how to jumpstart the car - it's in the owners manual, but you might not know that you boost from the engine compartment. Block Heater - I don't think there is one available, and with Mobil 1, you don't need it I don't think - the synthetic oil stays thin down to -30 C - I was really impressed by that. What else? Oh, if you have PSM - you might find that if you ever get stuck, you may want to turn it off. I often switch the PSM off in winter when driving slow and having some fun in 4 inches of snow - but experiment first or you'll spin out, PSM can save you for everyday driving, and I am no expert - just relating my experience of driving for several years with my 1999 C4 in winter. Oh one more - try to find some decent winter mats. I have "Porsche Rubber Mats" but they are not really that great. If you ever find some "pantsaver" type mats that can handle a ton of melted snow water, and fit perfectly, let me know.

Pretty good advice so far. I might suggest: Keep a booster battery at work in your office. A booster sitting in your car outside for 12 hours isn't going to be as good as one that's been sitting indoors. It's the low ground clearance that's going to get you stuck. If the bottom of the car gets lofted up by snow, you will have no traction no matter winter tires or AWD. A 4 wheeling trick to get out of deep snow/ice. Lower your tire pressures to 10 psi so they go flat and have a big contact patch that can float on the snow. Drive slowly out. Re-inflate the tires before you hit the road. Use a good 0Wxx full synthetic oil. Mobil 1 0W40 is quite thin at low temps. German Castrol 0W30 is also good.

Thanks for the tips! Looks like I'm not going to have a problem driving this bad boy in the endless months of winter we get .

I drove mine last winter, with awd....was incredible. What kind of snows do you have? I run with Blizzaks....they are awesome....almost can't wait for the snow again. J

1) Put winter tires on car 2) Drive car

Was just going to post a similar thread! Beat me to it. I knew I should change the oil but didn't even think to get a coolant flush. What shop in Calgary are you getting it done at? Or are you a DIY'er?

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I'll be doing it myself next week, but I've had good service from Southcentre before. Just got a set of Kuhmos LMAO - too funny.

Down here our idea of winterizing is to switch from shorts to a pair of jeans.

I know modern cars are well galvanized. But having the underbody sprayed w/ some sort of rust proofing will help fight off the salt. Anybody do that on their cars for winter?

When I lived in the midwest, we used to do a lot of undercoating. It can be a mixed blessing. The heavy stuff can add a surprising amount of weight to the car; as it ages, it can form gaps between the metal & undercoat--increasing rust. As an alternative, check the underside periodically to look for scrapes/rust. Some companies off a "rust converter" (can get it through Eastwood). Lightly brush on the rust and it turns it to a dark primer. There are cans of light weight undercoating (just a thin rubber) that you can spray on over that (the spray is a grey/charcoal color). This seems to work better over time along with fresh water rinses than major-scale commercial undercoating.

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Is it pretty simple to do? I've always wanted to learn how to do basic maintenance on my car (oil changes, etc) but worry that I'd screw something up and the car would explode.

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Oil's about the easiest. It's a good starting point and pretty hard to blow up your car by doing it. I looked on renntech and a DIY coolant flush appears to be a PITA. So I might just add some antifreeze in to change the ratios. Or bite the bullet and call the dealership.