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YOUR RESEARCHHow much for exhaust + install?
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Adjust muffler tips
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Adjust the muffler tips to the correct alignment and tighten the clamp.
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I think the toughest part of the whole job was removing/replacing the muffler tip clamp (#22).
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Suggestion
Adjust the muffler tips to the correct alignment and tighten the clamp.
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Suggestion
Installation on a Fabspeed is fairly easy, if you have the "right" tools, just need to jack the car up, remove the rear wheels and remove 3 nuts on each muffler bracket, lossen up the sleeve from the cat to the muffler as well, make sure you use wd40, then reinstall the brackets to the new exhaust.
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I'm tired of the stock exhaust on my '99 (just too darned quite) and I've been thinking about having a new exhaust put on the car.
I'm not looking at a PSE system but wanted to get an idea of what the typical prices for aftermarket systems and installs are.
I really don't have the time to do it myself and I've been quoted about $1400 for parts + labor. I liked the sound of this exhaust but the price seemed a little higher than I expected.
Just curious what the going rate is.
Thanks!
Contact Dan at Vivid Racing for a quote on a Fabspeed exhaust.
Should be able to purchase it & have it installed for less than $1400.00.
Probably closer to $1200.00 or less.
I haven't heard a fabspeed yet. I can say that The gemballa sounds normal under idle, but sounds really good when you step on it. A good sound, not a raspy fart-can sound.
I too am having a common problem now. I get terrible gas milage because I always seem to be flooring it.
Installation on a Fabspeed is fairly easy, if you have the "right" tools, just need to jack the car up, remove the rear wheels and remove 3 nuts on each muffler bracket, lossen up the sleeve from the cat to the muffler as well, make sure you use wd40, then reinstall the brackets to the new exhaust. Tips might be an issue, cause its hard to match up both side. But aside from that, would only take up to 2 hours with the right tools. 1 hour if you plan it all out before hand.
I have a decent set of hand tools and amateur grease-monkey skillz but nothing terribly exotic or specialized.
What exactly are the "right" tools?
Also don't you have to remove the whole rear bumper cover?
I've always avoided exhaust work because of how things get corroded together so badly and become difficult to remove. Is this a problem?
Any issues with getting a good no-leak seal?
Thanks,
Keith
You dont have the remove the rear bumper if you take the rear wheels off. Either way works.
As for the right tools, power tools are better and quicker, less bleeding knucles.
No issues as of yet, I installed mine about a week ago, power tools make sure that they have nice and snug fit
Jack up the rear of the car and slide jack stands upner the jacking points.
Remove the rear wheels.
There are only 5 bolts/nust per muffler you have to remove to get them off of the car. I have attached the PET exhaust diagram and have highlighted the connections you will have to loosen or remove.
Removing the old mufflers
1. Loosen the two nuts on the clamp (#29) that connects the muffler to the cat and clide the clamp onto the cat.
2. Then remove the three nuts (red arrow) from the bolts on the muffler bracket (#28).
3. Once those are loose, you can push the muffler toward the fender and rotate it toward the rear wheel to get it out of the cavity.
4. Remove bolts (#24 & #25) to get the bracket off of the muffler. You will need to transfer the bracket to the new mufflers.
5. Remove the exhaust tip clamp (#22).
Repeat the process for the other side.
Installing the new mufflers.
1. Pre install the muffler tips on the new mufflers, but DO NOT tighten the clamps completely, because you will have to adjust the alignment of the tips once the new mufflers are installed.
2. Install the bracket (#28) on the new mufflers, but reverse the direction of the bracket bolts. Instead of inserting them from the top (like in the diagram) insert them from the bottom. This way if you ever need to remove the mufflers again, you can remove these two bolts (#24 & #25) to get the muffler off.
3. Position the new muffler in the cavety and slide the 3 bracket bolts back into the holes.
4. Place one nut on one of the bolts. Keep this loose so you can complete the next step.
5. Align the muffler pipe and the cat pipe and slide the clamp on the muffler pipe and snug up the nuts slightly (do not tighten completely at this time).
6. Tighten all 3 nuts on the bracket.
7. Tighten the muffler/cat clamp.
8. Adjust the muffler tips to the correct alignment and tighten the clamp.
Hope this helps.
gota911,
WOW man, thanks for the detailed explanation and annotated drawing.
That really doesn't look that bad after all (especially since I don't have to take the rear bumper off, that was my main concern)...I'm sure it's going to be a little hard to get the pipes apart etc but after seeing this I think i'll try to tackle it on my own.
One question....on part #29 how does that make a tight seal? I assume it's a butt-connection between the cats and the muffler so is this clamp a crush fit or what?
Thanks for the encouragement guys.
-Keith
Keith - You are welcome! Concerning your question about part #29 - Yes it is a butt connection, but no it is not what I would call a crush fit clamp (if I understand you meaning of the term correctly). The clamp is 3" wide so it covers the butt joint completely and there are two bolts to tighten and it will give a secure connection between the muffler and the cat.
I think the toughest part of the whole job was removing/replacing the muffler tip clamp (#22). It is a concave "C" clamp which must be spread apart to get over the flared end of the muffler pipe (as shown in the 1st pic below). I found the easiest way to "open" the clamp was to insert two screwdrivers into the bolt holes on the clamp ends (as shown in the 2nd pic) then push the screwdriver handles toward each other to "open" the clamp. Be sure you don't push too hard, or you may distort the bolt holes of the clamp.
I hope this helps.
Robin Sun is rumoured to be doing an RSR for the 996. You may want to contact him on
www.p-car.com
. RSRs are very popular with the 993 crowd. Just do a search.
Cheers,
David
Hi Tim,
Not at all, I would hate for you guys to miss out if Robin's silencers sound as good on a 996 as they do on a 993.... Cost is always good as he does them on an exchange basis.
Cheers,
David
How does this not fit? It seems like a perfect fit. It is an exhaust option for someone that has asked about exhaust options. What am I missing?
I am also considering exhaust options and the RSR seems like a great solution...any sound clips from anyone? Thx...
David & B_H_ Loren - I guess I didn't, and still don't, understand what RSR means. Unfortunately, the first time I read David's post, I missed the link to P-car.com. I would think "silencers" would defeat the purpose of changing to Fabspeed mufflers to get a louder exhaust sound. Obviously, I am missing something here, but I don't know what that "something" is!
Sure - silencer is another word for muffler (makes sense -think about the root of the word "muffler"!) - or exhaust system. RSR is a brand of hand made mufflers (the letters represent the owners initials), or exhaust systems if you prefer, for 993s and 996s made by a porsche-file in california. It is an alternative to FabSpeed and the like, from what I have read.
B_H_Loren - Thanks for the explanation about RSR. NOW it makes sense! BTW - I took "silencers" to mean an additional apparatus to quiet the mufflers even more than normal.
Hey Tim,
I wanted to resurrect this thread that you linked me to because it is great! Your drawings and tips are fantastic.
I also want to thank you for always jumping in to offer real comment and solution. I have never addressed your talant before but I would like to now. I appreciate your posts and I will miss you if you decide to leave this board because of that Ferrari picture on your bathroom mirror. I realize that we all must move on at some point but just remember - it is Italian. Even though my names sake is also, my car is not.
Really though, Thank You for the very helpful posts. I will stop with the mushy stuff.
OH, almost forgot why I posted here...... I may have a few more tools than the average guy (being a race shop) but this is what I will be using. - yea I do pretty good at building an American hot rod but I need all the help I can get with my finely engineered German ride.
eric
I installed and removed mine and you dont need to remove the rear wheels.
Be VERY careful with the WD-40. It will F$%k the O2 sensors that are very close to the cat sleves... ask how i know :-)
Read Tim's (gotta911) tip for removing the exhaust tips with two screwdrivers... works great and this was the most difficult part for me the first time... still have the scars :-)
Totally agree on the time. 1:45 the first time (45 to get the F%^&*in tips off)
1hr the second time