13 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHFront rotor replacement, 996
Leading reported evidence
Replace pads lots of times
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Leading evidence: 'Replace pads lots of times' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace pads lots of times' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Then, if I get them out, do you use the anti-seize?
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13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T035758Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Caliper removal requires spreading pads - use a channel lock pliers. Caliper bolts require 10mm male hex wrench - you really need a socket-type hex wrench to get enough torque. Use a bungy cord to hang the caliper from the spring while you pull the rotor. And consider new pads while you're in there. Factory pads have clips on back which are way easier to get out once caliper is off.
Loren! This is not like you! You left out half of it, he didn't ask about a removal procedure, he asked about a replacement procedure! He has to know to install the new rotor with two screws, re-install the caliper, and put the wheel back on.
Totally not like you.
The two rotor screws don't have to be too tight - the wheels hold them in place.
Put the new bolts in the caliper and torque them to 63 ft/lbs. (85 Nm). Porsche recommends that you use new bolts.
Wheels are 96 ft/lbs.
Guys, you are making this much more difficult that it has to be for the OP. Loren is absolutely correct in how he answered the OP. He asked about "ROTOR REPLACEMENT". Didn't realize some of y'all didn't understand that removing the pads was a given during this procedure. Replace your rotors during a pad change. There is NO reason to replace the rotor only. Nobody here can go through a rotor from street driving faster than pads. Just add the ....(1) remove caliper (2) remove two screws holding rotor on (3) remove rotor (4) reverse....to your brake pad change.
I've changed pads lots of times, but not rotors. Any pictures out there, or is it as easy as it sounds. I started to do it but my rotor screws are rusted in place. I have an impact screwdriver( it uses a hammer), but got nowhere. What's OK to put on the screws to loosen them. Then, if I get them out, do you use the anti-seize? Does it hold up to the heat?
It's trivial. I've never seen rotor screws that wouldn't submit to determined coercion from an impact driver. So whack the crap out of them. If that doesn't work, try some localized heat from a propane torch, and then whack them again! Anti-seize will prevent the problem the next time around.
I can attest for anti-seize, it will hold up to thousands of degrees of temp, we use it in our jet engines at work in the "hot" section. It will most definitely hold up to the heat. And yes, anti seize is a great idea.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
