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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHEmergency Frunk release via wheel well?
Leading reported evidence
Run until the battery gave up
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
When the drain plugs failed to keep up and water got to the CPU, it shorted the alarm, which locked out the release levers, and ran until the battery gave up.
Leading evidence: 'Run until the battery gave up' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check floorboards' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Google tells me rain drains are likely plugged and to check my floorboards.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
On my 2003 C2 the pull cable is behind the passenger side headlight I have seen it when I had bumper and headlights out to clean intake areas.
Disconnect battery, inside the passenger wheel well
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Google tells me I need to access the emergency frunk release to disconnect the battery, inside the passenger wheel well?
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion · Original poster
Does anyone have another approach to resetting the latch lock-out or gaining access to the frunk?
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
When the drain plugs failed to keep up and water got to the CPU, it shorted the alarm, which locked out the release levers, and ran until the battery gave up.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
If available the best way to open hood is by jumping at the fuse box you can use a jump box, spare battery or another vehicle to use jumper cables make sure if you use another vehicle the vehicle is not running you don’t need that much power going through the small Red pull out terminal in the fuse box, clip your black negative jump cable to dood strap or door latch fitting.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
If available the best way to open hood is by jumping at the fuse box you can use a jump box, spare battery or another vehicle to use jumper cables make sure if you use another vehicle the vehicle is not running you don’t need that much power going through the small Red pull out terminal in the fuse box, clip your black negative jump cable to dood strap or door latch fitting.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
If available the best way to open hood is by jumping at the fuse box you can use a jump box, spare battery or another vehicle to use jumper cables make sure if you use another vehicle the vehicle is not running you don’t need that much power going through the small Red pull out terminal in the fuse box, clip your black negative jump cable to dood strap or door latch fitting.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T135432Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Well, this sucks.
We don't have a garage, and my 996 is in heated storage in the off season. So while parked behind our building, and after what felt like a week of rain, my neighbor tells me my alarm was going off yesterday morning. When she went to check, it was just the four-way flashers going. I unlocked via remote, everything looked fine, turned the key to Aux and everything powered up just fine, so I didn't bother trying to start it.
Today I go to start, and while all the lights came right on, zero ignition. Thinking the [new] battery must have been drained I get out the trickle charger and go to pop the frunk release, and.... locked solid. Both front and rear deck levers, tight. Google tells me rain drains are likely plugged and to check my floorboards. Gah, Soaked. Blotted away as much as I could with towels, and have fans running currently. Water shorted/triggered the security system, and that locked me out of the frunk release (and I assume ignition?).
Google tells me I need to access the emergency frunk release to disconnect the battery, inside the passenger wheel well?
I don't have access to a jack, so I turned the wheels all the way left for what access I could create. Popped two plastic plugs, but there must be a couple more screws to find and remove.
Has anyone dealt with this before? Any video or images out there on how (and where) to remove enough of the wheel well inside cover screws to reach the emergency release cable? And once inside there, where will I find the release cable?
Pulled the wheel well cover back as best I could. There's no way my hand is fitting in there among the hoses and brackets. Took a mirror and flashlight and I can't see any way to reach in from under the bumper either.
Does anyone have another approach to resetting the latch lock-out or gaining access to the frunk? Or a more specific location for the emergency release cable and where I should focus my search?
You could also try the emergency release for the engine lid, might have better luck. There is a terminal in the engine bay you can connect your jumper/battery to.
Mine is on the drivers side under the taillight but Google it and you�ll find plenty of videos.
That would get you 12v to then just pop the frunk normal and access the battery.
Does it not work to connect a battery or charger to the terminals in the driver's foot well? Apply 12V there and you should then be able to pop the trunk. No need to access the emergency release cable then. That cable should really only be needed if something is broken with the wiring or actuator to pop the trunk.
Post above should be the answer if everything is working previously to the low battery . Once you�ve got power to the fusebox leads, also try using the latch release button on the key fob.
On my 2003 C2 the pull cable is behind the passenger side headlight I have seen it when I had bumper and headlights out to clean intake areas. If available the best way to open hood is by jumping at the fuse box you can use a jump box, spare battery or another vehicle to use jumper cables make sure if you use another vehicle the vehicle is not running you don’t need that much power going through the small Red pull out terminal in the fuse box, clip your black negative jump cable to dood strap or door latch fitting. The cable is best used if you are out and no jumper capability available.
Rich
Follow the instructions inside the driver footwell fuse panel. You will need another 12V battery or multiple amp charger. Either should work to power up the lock. I just rescued my buddy's car last week. Followed instructions. Worked first time.
What I've learned in a day...
When the drain plugs failed to keep up and water got to the CPU, it shorted the alarm, which locked out the release levers, and ran until the battery gave up.
I finally loosened the three 5mm hex bolts keeping the release lever trim under the door, and manually pushed the blocking pin out of the way. And this helped me dodge a bullet.
While searching for this solution (turned to google AI) it said DO NOT charge the battery. If my CPU is still wet I could destroy it. It said to disconnect the battery ASAP and charge it separately, remove the driver's seat and remove the CPU. Sure enough, it was still wet.
I rinsed/cleaned it with 99% iso alcohol and believe I saved it. No burn marks, very little green and a few spots of white haze. Soft cotton and a small soft bristle brush and a lot of alcohol rinsing and it looks like new. I'll be letting this dry another day or two while I pull the carpets to fully dry inside there.
Next I need to find where the water was getting in and what drains need to be cleared. And now I know to keep it covered if it's going to rain. (I normally only bothered if it was going to storm)
The drains for a cab are from the rear of the car, under the rag top. They drain water into a trough that sits inside the panel under the rear windows on each side. From there, they drain into a tube that exits in front of each rear wheel. Where the drains exit, there is a cross hatched cover that is designed to keep mice from climbing in, and I'm sure that works, but it has the effect of allowing leaves and dirt to accumulate behind it so that the water drains into the floor footwell behind the front seats. When that fills up, the water spills into the well under the front seat and Frys the CPU.
First thing to do is remove rear wheel, remove fender liner, grab the crosshatched cover from the drain and throw it away. Start by vacuuming out the crap that was behind it.
I was lucky to catch this before it got worse. I had Paul Miller Porsche clear the drains and it was $305 which was a better use of my time because I didn't know about all this until after they told me what the problem was It completely solved the water issue.
Wow! Can you say ricochet???!!! Ok� back to initial inquiry - No need to remove the wheel liner� reach right through hole in the bumper that leads to the radiator/condenser (i think I said this earlier�)
