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YOUR RESEARCHReplacing Headunit
Leading reported evidence
Test dimming
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Just tested the dimming, it does not use the dimming dial.
Leading evidence: 'Test dimming' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust brightness of the interior lights' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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On Socket A/5 (control output aerial/amp) that is the wire I used for the antenna.
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Socket A/6 illumination was what I used for the dimming.
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With becker unit, I did not have the line out to the amp, only the power line out was used from C1 (i think).
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Suggestion
My next task will be figuring out how to replace the amp (will most likely require rewiring the speakers and pulling some rca lines) and changing the speakers.
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I have read every post on here I could find that talks about audio upgrades or stereos, but I am unclear on something.
I bought an Alpine CDA-9883 with the correct wiring harness, antenna adapter, etc. I have the Hi-Fi stereo option on my 2000 C2, so I have dash and door speakers as well as an amplifier in my trunk.
Some people say that if you have the Hi-Fi amp (non-MOST), that you cant just swap your headunit out. Others say it will work fine. I assume it will work, however, what type of signal is going to the amp when using these harnesses? Is it an amplified speaker output that is going to the amp, then gettng re-amplified? Or is the harness somehow directing a low level output to the amp, sort of like an RCA would yet not on an RCA?
Also I have read that you need to tape up your security lead by the HU so that your alarm doesn't thing the HU is stolen. That makes sense, but in some other posts people also elude to their being a potential problem with the antenna booster with aftermarket installation, and it getting power (in other words, it doesnt get power, and you get poor radio reception).
Does anyone know what the deal is with the antenna booster?
Mine has RCAs that turn into a harness that ties into the factory loom, so it is a low level unamplified signal going to the factory amp. It is the same harness as VW and Audi uses I believe (asked an installer at Circuit City). It was plug and play so YES, you can swap an aftermarket HU in.
The signal is a little weaker for FM/AM reception because of the thin antenna wire in the windshield and the HUs are probably made for full size antennas. I am happy with the reception the two Kenwoods I have had in my car.
There are others that can answer better but I'll give some info.
First- The harness will not conntect to the amp. You will have to cut the amp wires and wire it to the out of the head unit. I used RCA to do this. I lost the fade and balance feature. In the back of your Radio manual ie. the one that came with the car there is a diagram of the wiring of the amp
Second- You need to CUT the Security wire (wire is Brown with blue strip) then tape it up. After I did that I have had no problems with false alarms
I never had a problem with the antenna being aftermarket
Hope this helps
Circuit City carried a harness that attaches to the factory amp harness that has RCAs on the other end that will adapt to any aftermarket HU, just need to find the right insataller who knows. Like I said above, VW/Audi (one of the two or both) use the same harness to connect to the factory amp. I think it cost around $30 for the harness and the antenna extension cable.
Ok here is the info on this.
Metra harness 70-1787 is what is used to connect an aftermarket head unit to a 996 with Hi-Fi (non-MOST).
http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_s...A_70_1787.html
Even though Metra says its a VW/Audi harness this works, plug and play. I just hooked it up. Uses RCA's so its nice, works with the factory amp.
The only thing that was wierd with the Headunit install, was I stuck the sleeve in, bent up all the tabs, and then slide the headunit in the sleeve, but how do I secure the head unit to the sleeve? It doesn't really snap it, I mean if you push it in, it will continue to go in as far as y ou push, and it can go way back there, very recessed. I just pulled out to align it with the rest of my dash and slapped the trim plate on it, but I am worred about what will happen in a fast stop, take off, or accident, I mean I don't want the radio going airborne, anyone have any ideas?
Its an Alpine CDA-9883. I ran the ipod link around the side of the console and just stick the ipod in my console pocket.
Check out the iPod mount from ProClip. I have one in my cab and it is great.
They have a bracket designed specifically for the 996 (see picture). You need to get a device-specific holder to mount your iPod (they have different ones for the nano, video iPod -- even Palm Pilots and cell phones).
www.proclipusa.com
Sorry I can't offer any help on this topic, but when I read the thread title
Replacing Headunit
, I thought you were telling us you were getting a divorce!
Sorry, it's Saturday night and it has been a looooong week!
I just recently upgraded my 2002 system with the JVC KDNX5000, it's the new 1din HU with GPS, DVD audio/video, HD, IPOD, Bluetooth etc. Its a sweet unit and I just used a vw wire harness and matched wires to wires. With becker unit, I did not have the line out to the amp, only the power line out was used from C1 (i think). This i connected with my power amp line out on the new HU. I had to also connect all my speaker wires to the existing wires. So somehow this led me to believe that the speaker wires are going straight to the amp and then being additionally boosted that way.
As for the alarm wire, the brown wire is plugged to the metal frame. When the becker unit is in place, the metal frame that touches the unit is not shorted out as it touches the plastic on the cdc unit. So all I did was unplug the brown wire. No alarm issues.
For radio, i got the antenna converter and it was straight plug and play. Just make sure your power antenna from your new HU plugs to the power amp/antenna line that comes from the A harness. This is mostly for your AM reception. My radio sounds great, no issues whatsoever.
The jvc has bluetooth and ipod add ons as well. I have it all hooked up behind the scenes and it works really well.
When I get a chance I'll post some pics.
My next task will be figuring out how to replace the amp (will most likely require rewiring the speakers and pulling some rca lines) and changing the speakers.
But for a straight plug and play, the system is sounding much nicer then the becker unit. And I can watch music videos via divx, mpg, or avi
Joesmoe,
You say to make sure the power antenna is connected.....why? I hooked up the blue remote wire, so that the amp got remote power turn-on, and thats fine, is that what your talking about? Or are you talking about connecting the power antenna wire for some other function.
The only necessary connections I saw were:
12v constant
12v switched
ground
illumination (cant get to work)
remote amp turn on
antenna
line outs (speakers/rca)
Sorry let me clarify.
My HU is the CDR 220. Based on its wiring diagram,
I used socket C1/6 for the control output for the amp. I did not have any additional wires coming out of C1 which is the line outs.
On Socket A/5 (control output aerial/amp) that is the wire I used for the antenna. Once I hooked that up, my reception for AM was clear as a bell. FM worked fine without hooking it up.
Socket A/6 illumination was what I used for the dimming. This wire must somehow be related to the headlight control switch. When I turn my headlight on, my HU will dim.
Socket B was all the speaker wires that I connected to my new HU, which is why I assumed somewhere along the way the speaker wires are hooked up to some amp along the way. If I don't plug C/6 (amp), I get no sound.
I'm not sure what HU you have and how its wiring is, but that was mine and it had the 2 control out for aerial/amp.
With Socket A/6, does it only dim when you turn on your headlights? Like two levels, bright and dim? Or does it get dimmer and brighter as you adjust the brightness of the interior lights?
As far as these socket numbers you speak of, A B and C, is there a diagram for this? I have the amp. So I have one square block connector that contains power, ground, switched power. And then I have a more rectangle block that is really three seperate blocks chained together, and that has my speaker leads in it.
See this article, it has a picture of the connectors at the back
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...l=radio+pinout
I haven't noticed or tried my dimmer in my vehicle to see if it adjust the dim on the HU, will give it a go and let you know.
C1 - 1 - Lineout rear left
2 - LO rr
3 - ground
4 - LO fl
5 - LO fr
6 - control output aerial/amp
A 1 - speed control
2 - blank
3 - tel mute
4 - perm pos
5 - control output aerial / amp
6 - illumination
7 - switch pos
8 - ground
