8 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHFuel Filler Flap Actuator
Leading reported evidence
Use short #20 torx fitting (the short one
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
They're at a 90 degree angle up at the top of the wheel well and we had to get innovative and use a short #20 Torx fitting (the short one that goes into a screw driver head) and a box end wrench to unscrew the two screws.
Leading evidence: 'Use short #20 torx fitting (the short one' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Use short #20 torx fitting (the short one' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Use short #20 torx fitting (the short one
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
They're at a 90 degree angle up at the top of the wheel well and we had to get innovative and use a short #20 Torx fitting (the short one that goes into a screw driver head) and a box end wrench to unscrew the two screws.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
8 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T022239Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi Guys:
The other day noticed that the fuel filler flap was not locking, also noticed that the actuator shaft, although working, was not traveling the neccessary distance hence not locking the filler flap. The actuator shaft goes through a rosette and that part was out of place towards the inside, was unable to pull it back to the correct position. For some stupid reason thought that pulling the emergency release cable would help in some way but pulled it too hard and got dissconnected. In order to try to fix the problem/s need to be able to have accesses to the actuator. How can that be done?
Thanks
Haha...I had the EXACT same experience!
I have the pieces put aside for now, don't know if I want to fix it, coz' I don't really need to lock the gas cover.
Looks like a difficult task to access the area where the gadgets are.
Hi Cosmos:
The fact that it doesn't lock does not represent a problem. Thought that at high speed it would open but does not. However, the thought that is not working
bothers me
I broke mine when I thought that pulling on the ring was the emergency release for the hood, and I broke off part of the plastic shaft that moves forward and locks the fuel door when you lock your car. I guess the car sensors pick this up, because now when I lock the car, I get that quick little "beep" that tells you that something isnt closed. I have to buy another plastic shaft to put back in the place of the one I broke....so I would also be interested in how you replace this item....is it a major operation, or a simple matter? Looking for input here. Chuck
I think getting in that tight spot is the problem, I read somewhere that you would need to remove some wheel arch panel to reach in there. If someone could show how it's done, I might fix mine too.
I tried to do that, removing the fender cover but found that the carbon filter in in the way. Asked on another forum website any info on how to remove that filter but no answer yet. Thought there might be another way to do it. That was the reason for my original post.
Did you ever get an answer on your question? I just tackled this project with Loren (RennTech). We did a DIY project on this with pictures and documentation that he's going to post in the DIY section of RennTech.
You have to take off the wheel and take out the wheel lining on the passenger's front side. Then you can look up in the wheel well and see the large black plastic carbon cannister with the hoses connected to it.
With respect to the carbon filter...in additon to the hoses connected to it and one silver nut, it's just held in place with a compression fitting with two plastic prongs that go into two rubber gromets behind it. You just have to give the carbon cannister a good tug...I was afraid we'd break something but you won't....the rubber gromets are fairly tight, but a good tug and the cannister comes straight out. Make sure you disconnect the various hoses and lines...it's really a pretty straight forward procedure. The real bitch is trying to unscrew the two Torx screws that hold the fuel door actuator in place. They're at a 90 degree angle up at the top of the wheel well and we had to get innovative and use a short #20 Torx fitting (the short one that goes into a screw driver head) and a box end wrench to unscrew the two screws. You might be able to do this with a 90 degree #20 Torx configured like an allen wrench. You DONT have to unscrew them all the way. They actually only have to be backed out a turn or so to release the U shaped fittings....and the actuator will drop down.
Make sure you feed the black emergency cable and ring thru the slot in the passenger's door frame...otherwise it will hang up the actuator when you try to drop it down....look in the door frame with a flashlight, and you'll see how the ring can be turned and stuffed back thru the slot.
Don't lose the black plastic cap that feeds the actuator shaft thru the opening in the fuel door recess. It looks like a little round hat with a hole in it It's used to line up the shaft so it hits the hole in the lock, and the shaft protrudes thru it when you lock the car. I lost mine...had to order from Sunset....all of 65 cents.
Hope this helps. Give me a PM if you need more details... Chuck
